Hyaluronan: A key player or just a bystander in skin photoaging?

Challenging the safety and efficacy of topically applied chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin by HET-CAM, HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, and laser Doppler flowmetry

The integumentary system, a vital organ, constitutes a multifaceted barrier against pathogens and environmental factors, crucial for maintaining homeostasis. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can accelerate skin aging and compromise its homeostatic functions and solar rays, particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pose a significant risk for skin cancer. Polyphenols are molecules that donate hydrogen or electrons, preventing the oxidation of substances, such as lipids, or the formation of inflammatory mediators by cyclooxygenase enzymes. This study explored the in vitro safety, by HET-CAM (hen's egg test on chorioallantoic membrane), and protective effects of polyphenols (chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin) against stratum corneum UV-induced lipid peroxidation using an innovative method, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum), and a stress test using methyl nicotinate and laser Doppler flowmetry to establish in vivo the samples' topical anti-inflammatory ability. An aqueous gel containing 0.1% w/w of each polyphenol was formulated using ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. Through the utilization of the HET-CAM assay for in vitro safety assessment, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin were classified as non-irritating active ingredients. This classification was based on their lack of adverse reactions within the vascularization of the chorioallantoic membrane. To assess the protective capabilities of four polyphenols against lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol was conducted. It was observed that only naringenin exhibited a significant reduction in epidermal lipoperoxidation, indicating superior anti-radical potential. Conversely, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, and kaempferol displayed a pro-oxidant profile under the specified test conditions. The laser Doppler flowmetry suggested the anti-inflammatory potential of naringenin, kaempferol, and chlorogenic acid, with naringenin showing superior efficacy involving all parameters quantified. Naringenin emerged as the only polyphenol capable of reducing the intensity of the inflammatory response induced by methyl nicotinate solution in the participants, compared to the blank gel and the untreated area. This comprehensive investigation underscores the diverse protective roles of polyphenols in skin health, emphasizing naringenin's notable anti-radical and anti-inflammatory properties.

Protective effect of Helianthus annuus seed byproduct extract on ultraviolet radiation-induced injury in skin cells

Helianthus annuus seed byproduct is a residual product obtained after seed oil extraction. The present study investigated the preventive and repair effects of the H. annuus seed byproduct ethanol extract (HSE) on ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced injury in human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaTs) and human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). Results revealed that the total phenolic acid and oligosaccharide content in HSE was >50%. HSE had a stronger preventive effect on UVR-induced injury than the repair effect. Moreover, phenolic acids were the main active component of HSE mediating the preventative effect. In HaCaTs and HSFs, HSE prevented UVR-induced injury by inhibiting excessive ROS production. It reduced the secretion of tumor necrosis TNF-α, IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-6, and IL-8 by inhibiting the level of ROS, thus reducing inflammation-mediated injury to skin cells. In addition, HSE inhibited the expression of various mRNA kinases in the MAPK-ERK/p38/JNK pathway. This downregulated the expression of activator protein-1 (AP-1) mRNA and further reduced the secretion of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 as well as reduced UVR-induced injury to the cells. In conclusion, HSE is a broad-spectrum, natural UV filter with high efficiency and low toxicity that has the potential to be used in sunscreen products.

Anti-skin aging effect of sea buckthorn proanthocyanidins in D-galactose-induced aging mice

Oxidative stress in skin cells caused by changes in the external environment is one of the principal causes of skin aging. Sea buckthorn proanthocyanidins (SBPs) have good free radical scavenging ability. We established a senescence model by injecting 500 mg/kg D-galactose into the dorsal necks of mice, and then different doses of SBP (25, 50, and 100 mg/kg) were gavaged to explore the effects of SBP on the skin tissues of senescent mice and elucidate the related mechanism of action. The results reveal that SBP can alleviate the skin aging phenomenon caused by D-galactose-induced aging. It can also enhance the total antioxidant capacity in the body, thereby strengthening the body's antioxidant defense capability. In addition, SBP can effectively improve skin aging by regulating the TGF-β1/Smads pathway and MMPs/TIMP system, increasing the relative content of Col I and tropoelastin, further maintaining the stability of collagen fiber and elastic fiber structure. These results will provide the development and production of the antioxidant function of cosmetics and health products, providing a new train of thought.

Natural Retinol Analogs Potentiate the Effects of Retinal on Aged and Photodamaged Skin: Results from In Vitro to Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.

METHODS

Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.

RESULTS

In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow's feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.

The hyaluronan metabolism in the UV-irradiated human epidermis and the relevance of in vitro epidermal models

Exposure to the sun affects the skin and may eventually result in UV-induced skin damage. It is generally known that hyaluronan (HA) is one of the main structural and functional components of the skin. However, UV-related changes in the HA metabolism in the skin have not yet been elucidated. Using qRT-PCR, confocal microscopy and LC-MS/MS we compared the naturally sun-exposed (SE), sun-protected, experimentally repeatedly UVA + UVB-exposed and acutely (once) UVA + UVB irradiated skin of Caucasian women. The epidermis was harvested by means of suction blistering 24 h after the acute irradiation. In addition, the epidermis was compared with a UV-irradiated in vitro reconstituted 3D epidermis (EpiDerm) and an in vitro 2D culture of normal human keratinocytes (NHEK). The amount of HA was found to be statistically significantly enhanced in the acutely irradiated epidermis. The acute UV evinced the upregulation of HA synthases (HAS2 and HAS3), hyaluronidases (HYAL2 and HYAL3), Cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44), and Cell Migration Inducing Proteins (CEMIP and CEMIP2), while only certain changes were recapitulated in the 3D epidermis. For the first time, we demonstrated the enhanced gene and protein expression of CEMIP and CEMIP2 following UV irradiation in the human epidermis. The data suggest that the HA metabolism is affected by UV in the irradiated epidermis and that the response can be modulated by the underlying dermis.

Protective Effects of Lanostane Triterpenoids from Chaga Mushroom in Human Keratinocytes, HaCaT Cells, against Inflammatory and Oxidative Stresses

Inotodiol, a lanostane-type triterpenoid, and many phytochemicals from Chaga mushrooms have been investigated for various allergic diseases. However, the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities of inotodiol under different types of oxidative stress and the impact of inotodiol on collagen and hyaluronan synthesis have not been sufficiently studied. Lanostane triterpenoids-rich concentrate, which contained 10% inotodiol as major (inotodiol concentrate), was prepared from Chaga and compared with pure inotodiol in terms of anti-inflammatory activities on a human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT cells, under various stimulations such as stimulation with ultraviolet (UV) B or tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α. In stimulation with TNF-α, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8 genes were significantly repressed by 0.44~4.0 μg/mL of pure inotodiol. UVB irradiation induced the overexpression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, but those genes were significantly suppressed by pure inotodiol or inotodiol concentrate. Moreover, pure inotodiol/inotodiol concentrate could also modulate the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid by controlling COL1A2 and HAS2/3 expression, which implies a crucial role for pure inotodiol/inotodiol concentrate in the prevention of skin aging. These results illuminate the anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects of pure inotodiol/inotodiol concentrate, and it is highly conceivable that pure inotodiol and inotodiol concentrate could be promising natural bioactive substances to be incorporated in therapeutic and beautifying applications.

Protective effect of Schizonepeta tenuifolia Briq. ethanolic extract against UVB-induced skin aging and photodamage in hairless mice

The purpose of this study was to illuminate the mechanism by which Schizonepeta tenuifolia Briq. (ST) ethanolic extract prevents skin photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice (HR-1). The ST ethanolic extract alleviated wrinkle formation, epidermal skin thickness, and collagen degradation in skin tissues of ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated HR-1 mice. Expression of matrix metalloproteinases (a wrinkle-related marker) was reduced, and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase 1 expression was upregulated following application of ST ethanolic extract. Furthermore, skin dehydration and levels of hyaluronidase-1 and -2 (enzymes that break hyaluronic acid) were decreased. Moreover, protein expression of hyaluronan synthases (markers of skin hydration) and hyaluronic acid levels increased following ST ethanolic extract treatment in UVB-induced photoaging HR-1 mice. In addition, the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), including p38, extracellular signal-regulated kinase, and Jun N-terminal kinase was suppressed, and expression of nuclear factor-kappa was reduced. Treatment with ST ethanolic extract also reduced advanced glycation end product (AGE) accumulation and expression of the receptor for AGE (RAGE) in skin tissue. These results suggest that ST ethanolic extract moderates skin damage caused by UVB irradiation via regulating the expression of wrinkle- and hydration-related proteins, MAPKs, and RAGE.

Skin antiaging effects of a multiple mechanisms hyaluronan complex

OBJECTIVE

Intrinsic skin aging is an inevitable process with reduced extracellular matrix deposition and impaired mechanical integrity in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Hyaluronan is one of the most promising natural ingredients. In this research, multiple mechanisms of a novel hyaluronan complex against intrinsic skin aging were revealed.

METHOD

Immunohistochemical analysis and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay were employed to evaluate the effect of low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronan, its acetylated derivative and HA complex on expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type I collagen in normal human fibroblasts. Then, immunohistochemical analysis and hematoxylin and eosin staining was carried out to evaluate identical effects of HA complex in reconstructed skin equivalents, as well as its benefits on histological structure and DEJ.

RESULT

In normal human dermal fibroblasts, the hyaluronan complex, which contains low-molecular weight sodium hyaluronate and its acetylated derivative, has synergistic effects by increasing type I collagen expression. At the same time, MMP-1 production was inhibited. This was confirmed in subsequent experiments with skin equivalent, and intriguingly, the hyaluronan complex was also found to increase the expression of two DEJ proteins.

CONCLUSION

The multimechanism hyaluronan complex in this proof-of-concept study exhibited skin antiaging effects in vitro through inhibiting the expression of MMP-1 and enhancing type I collagen accumulation and the expression of DEJ proteins, which reveals new avenues for investigating more biological activities of various types of hyaluronan.

Photoprotective Effect of Fermented and Aged Mountain-Cultivated Ginseng Sprout (Panax ginseng) on Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Aging in a Hairless Mouse Model

Interest in foods that promote inner beauty increases with increases in exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays and with improvements in quality of life. This study was performed to evaluate the efficacy of fermented and aged mountain-cultivated ginseng sprouts (FAMCGSs), which have higher anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects compared to mountain-cultivated ginseng sprouts (MCGSs), as an inner beauty enhancing food. The effect of orally administered FAMCGSs on UV type B (UVB) radiation-induced skin aging was investigated in a hairless mouse model through analyzing skin parameters including epidermal thickness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), roughness, moisture, elasticity, and collagen contents. The mice exposed to UVB had markedly greater epidermal thickness, TEWL, and skin roughness than those of the normal control (NC) group. In addition, the levels of collagen, skin moisture, and dermal elasticity were lower in the UVB radiation group than the NC group. These UVB-induced skin aging parameters were significantly lower in the groups administered FAMCGSs than in the groups not administered FAMCGSs (p < 0.05). These results show that FAMCGSs exhibit a photoprotective effect in mice exposed to UVB and suggest that FAMCGSs can be used as a food that promotes inner beauty and protects skin from UVB-induced photoaging.

Iris Pallida Extract Alleviates Cortisol-Induced Decrease in Type 1 Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Syntheses in Human Skin Cells

Excessive endogenous or exogenous levels of the stress hormone cortisol have negative effects on various tissues, including the skin. Iris pallida (IP), used in traditional medicine and perfumes, exhibits biological activities, such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. In this study, we aimed to investigate the inhibitory effect of IP extract (IPE) on cortisol activity in human skin cells. We found that IPE alleviated the cortisol-induced decrease in the levels of procollagen type 1 and hyaluronic acid (HA), which were significantly recovered by 106% and 31%, respectively, compared with cortisol-induced reductions. IPE also rescued the suppression of the gene expression of COL1A1 and the HA synthases HAS2 and HAS3 in cortisol-exposed cells. Moreover, IPE blocked the cortisol-induced translocation of the glucocorticoid receptor (GR) from the cytoplasm to the nucleus as effectively as the GR inhibitor mifepristone. Analysis using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode-array detector system revealed that irigenin, an isoflavone, is the main component of IPE, which restored the cortisol-induced reduction in collagen type 1 levels by 82% relative to the cortisol-induced decrease. Our results suggest that IPE can act as an inhibitor of cortisol in human skin cells, preventing cortisol-induced collagen and HA degradation by blocking the nuclear translocation of the GR. Therefore, IPE may be used as a cosmetic material or herbal medicine to treat stress-related skin changes.

Recent Advances of Hyaluronan for Skin Delivery: From Structure to Fabrication Strategies and Applications

Hyaluronan (HA) plays a fundamental role in maintaining the homeostasis on skin health. Furthermore, the effect of HA in skin inflammatory diseases is worth studying in the next future. HA and its conjugates change the solubility of active pharmaceutical ingredients, improve emulsion properties, prolong stability, reduce immunogenicity, and provide targeting. HA penetrates to deeper layers of the skin via several mechanisms, which depend on the macromolecular structure and composition of the formulation. The cellular and molecular mechanisms involved in epidermal dysfunction and skin aging are not well understood. Nevertheless, HA is known to selectively activate CD44-mediated keratinocyte signaling that regulates its proliferation, migration, and differentiation. The molecular size of HA is critical for molecular mechanisms and interactions with receptors. High molecular weight HA is used in emulsions and low molecular weight is used to form nanostructured lipid carriers, polymeric micelles, bioconjugates, and nanoparticles. In the fabrication of microneedles, HA is combined with other polymers to enhance mechanical properties for piercing the skin. Hence, this review aims to provide an overview of the current state of the art and last reported ways of processing, and applications in skin drug delivery, which will advocate for their broadened use in the future.

Atomic-Resolution Experimental Structural Biology and Molecular Dynamics Simulations of Hyaluronan and Its Complexes

This review summarizes the atomic-resolution structural biology of hyaluronan and its complexes available in the Protein Data Bank, as well as published studies of atomic-resolution explicit-solvent molecular dynamics simulations on these and other hyaluronan and hyaluronan-containing systems. Advances in accurate molecular mechanics force fields, simulation methods and software, and computer hardware have supported a recent flourish in such simulations, such that the simulation publications now outnumber the structural biology publications by an order of magnitude. In addition to supplementing the experimental structural biology with computed dynamic and thermodynamic information, the molecular dynamics studies provide a wealth of atomic-resolution information on hyaluronan-containing systems for which there is no atomic-resolution structural biology either available or possible. Examples of these summarized in this review include hyaluronan pairing with other hyaluronan molecules and glycosaminoglycans, with ions, with proteins and peptides, with lipids, and with drugs and drug-like molecules. Despite limitations imposed by present-day computing resources on system size and simulation timescale, atomic-resolution explicit-solvent molecular dynamics simulations have been able to contribute significant insight into hyaluronan's flexibility and capacity for intra- and intermolecular non-covalent interactions.

A Systematic Review of Keratinocyte Secretions: A Regenerative Perspective

Cell regenerative therapy is a modern solution for difficult-to-heal wounds. Keratinocytes, the most common cell type in the skin, are difficult to obtain without the creation of another wound. Stem cell differentiation towards keratinocytes is a challenging process, and it is difficult to reproduce in chemically defined media. Nevertheless, a co-culture of keratinocytes with stem cells usually achieves efficient differentiation. This systematic review aims to identify the secretions of normal human keratinocytes reported in the literature and correlate them with the differentiation process. An online search revealed 338 references, of which 100 met the selection criteria. A total of 80 different keratinocyte secretions were reported, which can be grouped mainly into cytokines, growth factors, and antimicrobial peptides. The growth-factor group mostly affects stem cell differentiation into keratinocytes, especially epidermal growth factor and members of the transforming growth factor family. Nevertheless, the reported secretions reflected the nature of the involved studies, as most of them focused on keratinocyte interaction with inflammation. This review highlights the secretory function of keratinocytes, as well as the need for intense investigation to characterize these secretions and evaluate their regenerative capacities.

Retinoic Acid Grafted to Hyaluronic Acid Activates Retinoid Gene Expression and Removes Cholesterol from Cellular Membranes

All-trans-retinoic acid (atRA) is a potent ligand that regulates gene expression and is used to treat several skin disorders. Hyaluronic acid (HA) was previously conjugated with atRA (HA-atRA) to obtain a novel amphiphilic compound. HA-atRA forms micelles that incorporate hydrophobic molecules and facilitate their transport through the skin. The aim of this study was to determine the influence of HA-atRA on gene expression in skin cells and to compare it with that of unbound atRA. Gene expression was investigated using microarrays and a luciferase system with a canonical atRA promoter. HA-atRA upregulated gene expression similarly to atRA. However, HA-atRA activated the expression of cholesterol metabolism genes, unlike atRA. Further investigation using HPLC and filipin III staining suggested that the treated cells induced cholesterol synthesis to replenish the cholesterol removed from the cells by HA-atRA. HA modified with oleate (HA-C18:1) removed cholesterol from the cells similarly to HA-atRA, suggesting that the cholesterol removal stemmed from the amphiphilic nature of the two derivatives. HA-atRA induces retinoid signaling. Thus, HA-atRA could be used to treat skin diseases, such as acne and psoriasis, where the combined action of atRA signaling and anti-inflammatory cholesterol removal may be potentially beneficial.