Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

Development of biobased poly(urethanes-co-oxazolidones) organogels

Polyurethanes are largely employed in various fields such as building, insulation and adhesive industries, but there is the constant need to develop sustainable formulations using "green" components and feasible processes. Here, a new series of sustainable castor oil and epoxidized castor oil-based (CO/EpCO) polyurethane networks was synthetized and characterized. The added epoxy functions react with isocyanates forming oxazolidinone linkages in the gels' network, reducing the gelation time from over 3 hours up to 0.5 hours, increasing thermal resistance from 385 °C to 400 °C, tuning the gels' chemical affinity to organic solvents, and modulating some of their structural features at the nanoscale (e.g., polymer mesh size and characteristic persistence lengths), which altogether affect the mechanical behavior and the functionality of the gels. The key features of the new gels are fast gelation, good mechanical properties in the solvent-less and swollen states, and interactions with organic solvents, together with the high sustainability of the whole syntethic process. These features make the novel poly(urethanes-co-oxazolidones) castor oil organogels promising sustainable materials for potential use in several scientific and technological fields, ranging from cleaning/detergency to the adhesives and sealant industry.

Impressive merits of Nanocellulose driving sustainable beauty

Nanocellulose has emerged as a promising sustainable material in green cosmetics, driven by increasing environmental concerns and consumer demand for natural ingredients, as well as its unique features. This review systematically summarizes the latest research findings in nanocellulose applications across the cosmetics industry. We systematically analyze nanocellulose's multifunctional roles, including its exceptional performance as a moisturizing agent, sunscreen, antioxidant, and active ingredient delivery system in cosmetics. This review examines the fundamental mechanisms underlying these properties, supported by recent scientific findings and practical applications. Through detailed examination of current research, technological challenges, and market opportunities, this review provides valuable insights for both academic researchers and industry professionals working towards sustainable cosmetic innovations. We conclude by identifying key research gaps and future directions, emphasizing the transformative potential of nanocellulose in advancing green cosmetic formulations.

High precision acoustofluidic synthesis of stable, biocompatible water-in-water emulsions

Water-in-water (w/w) emulsions, comprising aqueous droplets within another continuous aqueous phase, rely on a low interfacial tension for stability. Thus far, it has been challenging to control their size and stability without the use of stabilizers. In this study, we introduce a microfluidic technique that addresses these challenges, producing stable w/w emulsions with precisely controlled size and uniformity. Results shows that using an acoustically actuated microfluidic mixer, PEG, Dextran, and alginate solutions (84.66 mPa.s viscosity difference) were homogenized rapidly, forming uniformly distributed w/w emulsions stabilized in alginate gels. The emulsion size, uniformity, and shear sensitivity can be tuned by modifying the alginate concentration. Biocompatibility was evaluated by monitoring the viability of kidney cells in the presence of emulsions and gels. In conclusion, this study not only showed emulsion formation with a high mixing efficiency exceeding 90 % for all viscosities, actuated at an optimized frequency of 1.064 MHz, but also demonstrated that an aqueous, solvent, and emulsifier-free composition exhibited remarkable biocompatibility, holding promise for precise drug delivery, cosmetics, and food applications.

Subjective and objective assessment of color match of universal tinted sunscreens in Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I-VI

BACKGROUND

Tinted sunscreens not only shield against UV rays but also provide protection against visible light, as opposed to traditional sunscreens. Universal tinted sunscreens are marketed to complement all skin tones.

OBJECTIVE

To assess color match and subject satisfaction for 7 universal tinted sunscreens across various price ranges in all Fitzpatrick skin phototypes (SPT).

METHODS

Products A-G were applied at concentrations of 1 and 2 mg/cm2 on the dorsal arms of 30 subjects spanning SPT I-VI. Photography, colorimetry, and subject and investigator surveys were utilized to determine color match.

RESULTS

Using colorimetry analysis at the recommended 2 mg/cm2 concentration, two of seven products were identified as suitable matches for SPT I-II, while six out of seven were determined to be a good match for SPT III-IV. However, only one product was found to be a good match for SPT V-VI at the recommended concentration according to colorimetry results.

CONCLUSION

Universal tinted sunscreens do not provide an adequate color match for all skin phototypes, especially for individuals with very fair or very dark skin tones.

Innovative Strategies for Upcycling Agricultural Residues and Their Various Pharmaceutical Applications

This review investigates innovative strategies for upcycling agricultural residues into valuable pharmaceutical compounds. The improper disposal of agricultural residues contributes to significant environmental issues, including increased greenhouse gas emissions and ecosystem degradation. Upcycling offers a sustainable solution, transforming these residues into high-value bioproducts (antioxidants, antitumor agents, antidiabetic compounds, anti-inflammatory agents, and antiviral drugs). Nanotechnology and microbial biotechnology have a crucial role in enhancing bioavailability and targeted delivery of bioactive compounds. Advanced techniques like enzymatic hydrolysis, green solvents, microwave processing, pyrolysis, ultrasonic processing, acid and alkaline hydrolysis, ozonolysis, and organosolv processes are explored for their effectiveness in breaking down agricultural waste and extracting valuable compounds. Despite the promising potential, challenges such as variability in residue composition, scalability, and high costs persist. The review emphasizes the need for future research on cost-effective extraction techniques and robust regulatory frameworks to ensure the safety, efficacy, and quality of bioproducts. The upcycling of agricultural residues represents a viable path towards sustainable waste management and production of pharmaceutical compounds, contributing to environmental conservation and public health improvements. This review provides an analysis of the current literature and identifies knowledge gaps, offering recommendations for future studies to optimize the use of agricultural residues in the drug industry.

Consumer Behavior, Skin Phototype, Sunscreens, and Tools for Photoprotection: A Review

Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), wearing clothes with sun protection factors, applying sunscreens at the correct amounts and intervals, and wearing glasses with anti-UVA and UVB lenses are effective measures for protecting an individual. Therefore, the objective of this review was to highlight the importance of photoprotection for all skin phototypes, as skin cancer is a worldwide public health problem. In this review of the scientific literature on the Scopus platform between 2015 and 2022, we addressed the most common behaviors among different individuals and their phototypes, the importance of clarifying population habits against solar radiation, and the use of sunscreens and photoprotection tools to provide advice on healthy and safe sun exposure.

On Hair Care Physicochemistry: From Structure and Degradation to Novel Biobased Conditioning Agents

Hair is constantly exposed to various adverse external stimuli, such as mechanical or thermal factors, that may cause damage or cause it to lose its shine and smooth appearance. These undesirable effects can be minimized by using hair conditioners, which repair the hair and restore the smooth effect desired by the consumer. Some of the currently used conditioning agents present low biodegradability and high toxicity to aquatic organisms. Consumers are also becoming more aware of environmental issues and shifting their preferences toward natural-based products. Therefore, developing novel, sustainable, natural-based derivatives that can act as conditioning agents in hair care products and thus compete with the traditional systems obtained from non-renewable sources is highly appealing. This paper presents the key physicochemical aspects of the hair conditioning process, including hair structure and degradation, and reviews some of the new alternative conditioning agents obtained from natural resources.

Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3) Increases Growth, Protein and Photosynthetic Pigments Production and Alters Carbohydrate Production of Spirulina platensis

Improving the biochemical status of Spirulina platensis will enhance the functional properties of this microalgae. The present study investigated the effects of adding NaHCO₃ to the culture medium on the growth rate and biochemical composition, particularly the coproduction of proteins, carbohydrates, and photosynthetic pigments of S. platensis. Spirulina platensis was grown in different NaHCO₃ concentrations (0-16 g L^-1). NaHCO₃ positively affected the biomass production. The growth of S. platensis and biochemical compound content increased with an increase in the NaHCO₃ concentration. The microalgae biomass grown on NaHCO₃ also contained higher amounts of protein (64.20 ± 4.18% w w^-1) and photosynthetic pigments (phycocyanin and chlorophyll a, b, and total). Protein productivity was especially enhanced by approximately 6-25% (from 0.006 ± 0.0030 to 0.025 ± 0.0031 mg L^-1 day^-1) with the addition of NaHCO₃ compared to the control. In contrast, the content of carbohydrates and antioxidant compounds (phenolic, polyphenol oxidase, and peroxidase activities) decreased with culture age and an increase in the NaHCO₃ concentration. These results suggest that S. platensis uses NaHCO₃ as a carbon source for photosynthesis, biomass production, and acts as a metabolic energy carrier toward the synthesis of proteins and photosynthetic pigments, which are more energy-consuming metabolites than carbohydrates. The addition of NaHCO₃ to the culture media is a potentially useful strategy toward improving the protein and photosynthetic pigment productivity of S. platensis.

Nanocelluloses as skin biocompatible materials for skincare, cosmetics, and healthcare: Formulations, regulations, and emerging applications

Nowadays, skin biocompatible products are fast-growing markets for nanocelluloses with increasing number of patents published in last decade. This review highlights recent developments, market trends, safety assessments, and regulations for different nanocellulose types (i.e. nanoparticles, nanocrystals, nanofibers, nanoyarns, bacterial nanocellulose) used in skincare, cosmetics, and healthcare. The specific properties of nanocelluloses for skincare include high viscosity and shear thinning properties, surface functionality, dispersion stability, water-holding capacity, purity, and biocompatibility. Depending on their morphology (e.g. size, aspect ratio, geometry, porosity), nanocelluloses can be used as formulation modifiers, moisturizers, nanofillers, additives, membranes, and films. Nanocellulose composite particles were recently developed as carriers for bioactive compounds or UV-blockers and platforms for wound healing and skin sensors. As toxicological assessment depends on morphologies and intrinsic properties, stringent regulation is needed from the testing of efficient nanocellulose dosages. The challenges and perspectives for an industrial breakthrough are related to optimization of production and processing conditions.

Food Loss and Food Waste for Green Cosmetics and Medical Devices for a Cleaner Planet

To stay wealthy in a world where all can live in prosperity and wellbeing, it is necessary to develop sustainable growth at net zero emissions to stop climate change, neutralizing both risks and diseases such as the COVID-19 pandemic and inequalities. Changing the worldwide use of the great quantity of food loss and waste can help to move in this direction. At this purpose, it seems useful to transform food waste into richness, extracting and using its content in natural ingredients and biopolymers to make new sustainable products and goods, including cosmetics and medical devices. Many of these ingredients are not only bioactive molecules considered of interest to produce these consumer products but are also useful in reducing the environmental footprint. The active agents may be obtained, for example, from waste material such as grapes or olive pomace, which include, among others natural polymers, phythosterols, vitamins, minerals and unsaturated fatty acids. Among the polymers, chitin and lignin have shown particular interest because biodegradable, nontoxic, skin- and environmentally friendly ingredients can be obtained at low cost from food and forestry waste, respectively. According to our experience, these polymers may be used to make nanocomposites and micro-nanoparticles that encapsulate different active ingredients, and which may be embedded into gel and non-woven tissues to realize advanced medications and smart cosmeceuticals. However, to utilize food waste in the best possible way, a better education of both industry and the consumer is considered necessary, introducing all to change the ways of production and living. The consumer has to understand the need to privilege, food, cosmetics and goods by selecting products known to be effective that also have a low release of carbon dioxide. Thus, they must pay heed to purchasing cosmetics and medical devices made by natural ingredients and packaged by biodegradable and/or reusable containers that are possibly plastic free. Conversely, the industry must try to use natural raw materials obtained from waste by changing their actual production methods. Therefore, both industry and the consumer should depart from the linear economy, which is based on taking, making, and producing waste, to move into a circular economy, which is based on redesigning, reducing, reusing and recycling. Some examples will report on the possibility to use natural polymers, including chitin and lignin, to produce new cosmeceutical tissues. These innovative tissues, to be used as biodegradable carriers for making smart cosmetics and medical devices, may be produced at zero waste to save our health and the planet biodiversity.

From Cosmetics to Innovative Cosmeceuticals—Non-Woven Tissues as New Biodegradable Carriers

Due to pollution and climate-change fear, further increased by the COVID19 pandemic, consumers are looking for body and mind health by the request of more effective and safe products, including the anti-aging skincare cosmeceuticals.. The term “cosmeceuticals” was coined in 1962 as a fusion of cosmetic and pharmaceutical to cover a new class of products able to achieve aesthetic and drug-like benefits. They not only improve the skin’s appearance, but also treat different dermatological conditions, through a physiological activity, shown by in vitro and in vivo studies. This new category of cosmetics should contain no recognized drugs, but nonetheless have medicinal value. Consumers, in fact, are looking for products able to regenerate the skin and maintain not only a youthful appearance together with well-ness and well-being, but preserving the environment also. Consequently, they are searching for cosmetics and food made with high-quality natural ingredients, packaged with biodegradable materials and realized by sustainable technologies, possibly at zero waste. Consumers, in fact, are afraid of the pollution and plastics invading lands and oceans, causing many frequent disasters on our planet. New and smart tissues and films, made by polysaccharides and natural active ingredients, are proposed as innovative cosmeceuticals. These non-woven tissues, embedded by micro/nano complexes of chitin and lignin encapsulating different active ingredients, could represent a new category of vehicles that are characterized for their high effectiveness and safeness. Moreover, they do not induce allergic nor sensitizing phenomena, being biodegradable; skin- and environmentally friendly; and free of preservatives, emulsifiers, colors, fragrances and any kind of chemicals. Last but not least, polysaccharides, chitin and lignin may be obtained from industrial and agro-forestry waste, safeguarding the natural raw materials for the future generations.

Bacterial Nanocellulose toward Green Cosmetics: Recent Progresses and Challenges

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

Synthetic and Bio-Derived Surfactants Versus Microbial Biosurfactants in the Cosmetic Industry: An Overview

This article includes an updated review of the classification, uses and side effects of surfactants for their application in the cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries. Based on their origin and composition, surfactants can be divided into three different categories: (i) synthetic surfactants; (ii) bio-based surfactants; and (iii) microbial biosurfactants. The first group is the most widespread and cost-effective. It is composed of surfactants, which are synthetically produced, using non-renewable sources, with a final structure that is different from the natural components of living cells. The second category comprises surfactants of intermediate biocompatibility, usually produced by chemical synthesis but integrating fats, sugars or amino acids obtained from renewable sources into their structure. Finally, the third group of surfactants, designated as microbial biosurfactants, are considered the most biocompatible and eco-friendly, as they are produced by living cells, mostly bacteria and yeasts, without the intermediation of organic synthesis. Based on the information included in this review it would be interesting for cosmetic, personal care and pharmaceutical industries to consider microbial biosurfactants as a group apart from surfactants, needing specific regulations, as they are less toxic and more biocompatible than chemical surfactants having formulations that are more biocompatible and greener.

Renewable Polysaccharides Micro/Nanostructures for Food and Cosmetic Applications

The worldwide diffusion of nanotechnologies into products nowadays has completely revolutionized human life, providing novel comfort and benefits. Their inclusion in food and cosmetic has a heavy impact over the market, allowing the development of higher value products with enhanced properties. Natural origin polymers and in particular polysaccharides represent a versatile platform of materials for the development of micro/nanostructured additives for food and cosmetic products due to their chemical versatility, biocompatibility, and abundance. Here, we review the current applications of polysaccharides-based micro/nanostructures, taking into consideration the precursors' production, isolation, and extraction methods and highlighting the advantages, possible drawbacks, and market diffusion.