Anti-irritants I: dose–response in acute irritation

Evaluation of the anti-aging potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline in cosmetics

Acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline, a commercialized bio-active peptide, is widely used in anti-wrinkle formulations. Volunteer-based tests have demonstrated that topical application of products containing acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline significantly reduces the visibility of stretch marks. However, there is still a lack of research dedicated to systematically and holistically evaluating its cosmetic properties and elucidating its mechanisms of action. In this study, we assessed the cosmetic potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline using human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and mouse embryonic fibroblasts (3T3). Our findings reveal that acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline exhibits anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities in skin cells, particularly effective against the inflammatory markers cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6), and the extent of inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production ranged from 95 % to 340 %. Moreover, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline specifically up-regulates Collagen IV and down-regulates matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9), enhances the expression of skin barrier proteins transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) and filaggrin (FLG), thereby demonstrating its reparative capabilities. Additionally, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline increases the expression of the water channel protein aquaporin 3 (AQP3), thus improving skin hydration function. These results substantiate the previously proclaimed cosmetic attributes of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and support its efficacy as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications.

Pharmacological and biological effects of alpha-bisabolol: An updated review of the molecular mechanisms

Alpha-bisabolol (α-bisabolol), an unsaturated monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, is known as one of the "most-used herbal constituents" in the world. Various therapeutic and biological properties of α-bisabolol in preventing oxidative stress, inflammatory disorders, infections, neurodegenerative diseases, cancers, and metabolic disorders have been reported. In this review, we evaluated new findings regarding the molecular mechanisms of α-bisabolol published from 2010 until 2021 in PubMed, Science Direct, and Scopus. The antioxidant mechanism of α-bisabolol is mainly associated with the reduction of ROS/RNS, MDA, and GSH depletion, MPO activity, and augmentation of SOD and CAT. Additionally, upregulating the expression of bcl-2 and suppression of bax, P53, APAF-1, caspase-3, and caspase-9 activity indicates the anti-apoptotic effects of α- bisabolol. It possesses anti-inflammatory effects via reduction of TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, iNOS, and COX-2 and suppresses the activation of ERK1/2, JNK, NF-κB, and p38. The antimicrobial effect is mediated by inhibiting the viability of infected cells and improves cognitive function via downregulation of bax, cleaved caspases-3 and 9 levels, β-secretase, cholinesterase activities, and upregulation of bcl-2 levels. Finally, due to multiple biological activities, α-bisabolol is worthy to be subjected to clinical trials to achieve new insights into its beneficial effects on human health.

A comparison of the effect of certain inorganic salts on suppression acute skin irritation by human biometric assay: A randomized, double-blind clinical trial

Background:

Strontium, zinc, and potassium salts have been demonstrated to inhibit irritation and inflammation when applied topically. Particularly, strontium chloride (SC) and potassium nitrate (KN) are reported to reduce skin and tooth sensitivity. The aim of the present study was to compare the anti-irritant effects of four inorganic salts and assign the ingredient which can suppress skin irritation due to chemical or environmental exposure, more effectively. We compared the anti-inflammatory effects of SC, strontium nitrate (SN), KN, and zinc chloride (ZC).

Materials and Methods:

This double-blind trial was conducted on 32 healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. Irritation was induced by 24 h exposure with 1.0% sodium lauryl sulfate on arms. Treatments were applied by an ointment of SN, SC hexahydrate, KN, and ZC and their 1%, 3%, and 5% (w/v) concentrations were prepared. The dosage was twice daily for 6 days to the irritated areas. Skin reactions were evaluated instrumentally.

Results:

SC had a beneficial effect that was significant overall. All other treatments exert a protective effect in skin barrier function but not significantly. With the exception of ZC, all test substances improved skin hydration but the effect of SC was significant. In respect of colorimetric assessment, all treatments, excluding ZC, reduced erythema significantly compared with an untreated control 7 days after treatment start. There was no support for a dose-response effect.

Conclusion:

Analysis of the biometric measurements revealed that the strontium salts are best, not treating is worst, and there is little difference between the other treatments. Hence, the skin care products containing SC and SN may reduce the signs and symptoms of irritant contact dermatitis.

Topical Treatment of Leishmania tropica Infection Using (-)-α-Bisabolol Ointment in a Hamster Model: Effectiveness and Safety Assessment

There is currently no reliable treatment for the management of cutaneous leishmaniasis, and intralesional antimonial injections remain the main treatment. The present work aims at evaluating the antileishmanial effectiveness and safety of (-)-α-bisabolol (1) in a novel topical formulation on a cutaneous leishmaniasis model involving Leishmania tropica-infected Syrian hamsters. The topical treatment with 1 reduced lesion thickness to 56% at 2.5%, showing a higher efficacy than the reference control, meglumine antimoniate. Other regimens (ointment at 1% and 5% and oral treatment at 200 mg/kg) reduced the footpad thickness as well. The skin parasite load decreased after the experiment in all treatment groups, particularly in those animals treated with the 2.5% formulation (83.2%). Treatment with (-)-α-bisabolol at different concentrations or through an oral route did not lead to the appearance of toxicity or side effects in healthy hamsters or infected animals. Therefore, topical (-)-α-bisabolol was more effective than meglumine antimoniate in this cutaneous leishmaniasis model without showing toxicity effects on the hamsters. These results are of great interest and might be used for the development of alternatives for the treatment of cutaneous leishmaniasis, either in monotherapy or in combination with other drugs whose skin permeability could be enhanced by this sesquiterpene.

Anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory effects of glycerol and xylitol in sodium lauryl sulphate-induced acute irritation

BACKGROUND

Glycerol is known to possess anti-irritant and hydrating properties and previous studies suggested that xylitol may also have similar effects.

OBJECTIVE

Our aim was to study whether different concentrations of these polyols restore skin barrier function and soothe inflammation in sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-induced acute irritation.

METHODS

The experiments were performed on male SKH-1 hairless mice. The skin of the dorsal region was exposed to SLS (5%) for 3 h alone or together with 5% or 10% of glycerol respectively. Further two groups received xylitol solutions (8.26% and 16.52% respectively) using the same osmolarities, which were equivalent to those of the glycerol treatments. The control group was treated with purified water. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration were determined. Microcirculatory parameters of inflammation were observed by means of intravital videomicroscopy (IVM). Furthermore, accumulation of neutrophil granulocytes and lymphocytes, the expression of inflammatory cytokines and SLS penetration were assessed, as well.

RESULTS

Treatment with the 10% of glycerol and both concentrations of xylitol inhibited the SLS-induced elevation of TEWL and moderated the irritant-induced increase in dermal blood flow and in the number of leucocyte-endothelial interactions. All concentrations of the applied polyols improved hydration and prevented the accumulation of lymphocytes near the treatment site. At the mRNA level, neither glycerol nor xylitol influenced the expression of interleukin-1 alpha. However, expression of interleukin-1 beta was significantly decreased by the 10% glycerol treatment, while expression of tumour necrosis factor-alpha decreased upon the same treatment, as well as in response to xylitol. Higher polyol treatments decreased the SLS penetration to the deeper layers of the stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Both of the analysed polyols exert considerable anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, but the effective concentration of xylitol is lower than that of glycerol.

The anti-inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (Prunus yedoensis) used in soothing skincare product

OBJECTIVE

Previous investigations suggested that cherry blossoms could provide valuable bioactive materials. However, few observations regarding the anti-inflammatory effect of cherry blossoms were reported. This study was to explore the anti-inflammatory effect of cherry blossom extract (CBE), which was used as a soothing ingredient in skincare product.

METHODS

In vitro study, the anti-inflammatory effect of CBE on the nitric oxide (NO) inhibition assay in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated RAW 264.7 cells was investigated. In vivo study, 40 volunteers were included in a randomized, single-blinded, placebo-controlled trial. 24-hour-occlusive test chambers were applied on the flexor side of the forearm with 3% sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS). Subsequently, the test areas were treated on 9 subsequent days with a cream containing 3% CBE or a placebo. Evaluation included a visual score and determination of erythema value (E value).

RESULTS

In vitro study, 2% CBE reduced NO production by 31.83% compared to the placebo. In the SLS irritant patch test, the visual score and erythema value of CBE were lower than that of the placebo on D5 and D9.

CONCLUSION

Cherry blossom extract shows good anti-inflammatory effect in vitro and in vivo and represents a promising functional ingredient in soothing skincare product by reducing skin inflammation.

Challenges and opportunities in dermal/transdermal delivery

Transdermal drug delivery is an exciting and challenging area. There are numerous transdermal delivery systems currently available on the market. However, the transdermal market still remains limited to a narrow range of drugs. Further advances in transdermal delivery depend on the ability to overcome the challenges faced regarding the permeation and skin irritation of the drug molecules. Emergence of novel techniques for skin permeation enhancement and development of methods to lessen skin irritation would widen the transdermal market for hydrophilic compounds, macromolecules and conventional drugs for new therapeutic indications. As evident from the ongoing clinical trials of a wide variety of drugs for various clinical conditions, there is a great future for transdermal delivery of drugs.

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions

Glycerol is a trihydroxy alcohol that has been included for many years in topical dermatological preparations. In addition, endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity and epidermal barrier repair. The aquaporin-3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism in the skin. Multiple effects of glycerol on the skin have been reported. The diverse actions of the polyol glycerol on the epidermis include improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function and skin mechanical properties, inhibition of the stratum corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli, enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of wound-healing processes. Even an antimicrobial effect has been demonstrated. Topical application of glycerol-containing products improves skin properties in diseases characterized by xerosis and impaired epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis. The increase of epidermal hydration by glycerol is critical in skin conditions aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, e.g. winter xerosis. This paper provides a review on effects of glycerol on the skin, the mechanisms of its action, and the potential applications of glycerol in dermatology.

Comparison of the effect of glycerol and triamcinolone acetonide on cumulative skin irritation in a randomized trial

BACKGROUND

So-called anti-irritants are added to cosmetic formulations because of their alleged beneficial effect on irritated skin. Documentation for these claims is often limited. However, glycerol has shown anti-irritant properties in experimentally induced irritation from sodium lauryl sulfate and nonanoic acid (NON). This study was designed to further substantiate that glycerol added to cosmetic formulations has an anti-irritant effect on experimentally induced skin irritation.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to compare glycerol with triamcinolone acetonide as treatments for cutaneous irritation in human volunteers.

METHODS

Irritation was induced by 3 daily arm washes for a week with 10% sodium lauryl sulfate on one arm and 30% NON on the other. To maintain irritation, for the next 12 days volunteers washed their arms twice daily with the irritants. Treatments were applied immediately after washing. The treatments (including vehicle and no treatment) were randomized to sites using a Latin square design. The reactions were evaluated clinically and instrumentally.

LIMITATIONS

Study was designed to only detect potent anti-irritants.

CONCLUSION

Glycerol reduced the irritant effect of both sodium lauryl sulfate and NON, whereas triamcinolone acetonide appeared to have beneficial effect only on the irritation induced by NON. The study provided experimental documentation for the claim that glycerol has anti-irritant effect in a cosmetic formulation.

Anti-irritants II: efficacy against cumulative irritation

So-called anti-irritants (AI) are widely used in cosmetic formulations, with the aim of reducing irritation from substances in the formulation. It may also be claimed that they are 'soothing' and 'healing' ingredients. However, the proof for these claims is circumstantial. The dose-response effect of 4 alleged AI (nifedipine, (-)-alpha-bisabolol, canola oil and glycerol) was studied on experimentally induced acute irritation in healthy volunteers, and only glycerol showed dose-related response and effects potentially better than no treatment. The acute irritation model only allowed a small window of opportunity in which to demonstrate efficacy. Therefore, the effect of AI was studied in a cumulative irritation model by inducing irritant dermatitis with 10 min daily exposures for 5+4 days (no irritation on weekend) to 1% sodium lauryl sulfate on the right and 20% nonanoic acid on the left volar forearm. AI ointments were applied twice daily. Clinical scoring was performed daily, evaporimetry (Trans Epidermal Water Loss), hydration and colourimetry were measured at baseline (D0), in the middle and at the end of treatment. The glycerol ointment was the only treatment statistically better than both 'no treatment' and vehicle.