Photo-induced events in the human melanocytic system: photoaggression and photoprotection

Assessing the safety of new germicidal far-UVC technologies

The COVID-19 pandemic underscored the crucial importance of enhanced indoor air quality control measures to mitigate the spread of respiratory pathogens. Far-UVC is a type of germicidal ultraviolet technology, with wavelengths between 200 and 235 nm, that has emerged as a highly promising approach for indoor air disinfection. Due to its enhanced safety compared to conventional 254 nm upper-room germicidal systems, far-UVC allows for whole-room direct exposure of occupied spaces, potentially offering greater efficacy, since the total room air is constantly treated. While current evidence supports using far-UVC systems within existing guidelines, understanding the upper safety limit is critical to maximizing its effectiveness, particularly for the acute phase of a pandemic or epidemic when greater protection may be needed. This review article summarizes the substantial present knowledge on far-UVC safety regarding skin and eye exposure and highlights research priorities to discern the maximum exposure levels that avoid adverse effects. We advocate for comprehensive safety studies that explore potential mechanisms of harm, generate action spectra for crucial biological effects and conduct high-dose, long-term exposure trials. Such rigorous scientific investigation will be key to determining safe and effective levels for far-UVC deployment in indoor environments, contributing significantly to future pandemic preparedness and response.

Nicastrin Deficiency Induces Tyrosinase-Dependent Depigmentation and Skin Inflammation

Skin depigmentation diseases, such as vitiligo, are pigmentation disorders that often destroy melanocytes. However, their pathological mechanisms remain unclear, and therefore, promising treatments or prevention has been lacking. Here, we demonstrate that a zebrafish insertional mutant showing a significant reduction of nicastrin transcript possesses melanosome maturation defect, Tyrosinase-dependent mitochondrial swelling, and melanophore cell death. The depigmentation phenotypes are proven to be a result of γ-secretase inactivation. Furthermore, live imaging demonstrates that macrophages are recruited to and can phagocytose melanophore debris. Thus, we characterize a potential zebrafish depigmentation disease model, a nicastrin^hi1384 mutant, which can be used for further treatment or drug development of diseases related to skin depigmentation and/or inflammation.

Association between dietary intake of n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids and severity of skin photoaging in a middle-aged Caucasian population

BACKGROUND

Intake of long-chain n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFAs) supplementation has been reported to be associated with reduced UVB-erythemal sensitivity, but their relationship to photoaging has not been studied to date.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate associations between daily n-3 PUFA intake and the severity of skin photoaging.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study was conducted on 2919 subjects aged 45-60 years from the SU.VI.MAX cohort. At baseline, trained investigators graded the severity of facial skin photoaging using a validated 6-grade scale during a clinical examination. Intake of α-linolenic (ALA), eicosapentaenoic (EPA), docosapentaenoic (DPA), and docosahexaenoic acids (DHA) were evaluated by dietary source using ten 24-h dietary record questionnaires during the first 2.5 years of the follow-up period.

RESULTS

After adjustment for possible confounders, severe photoaging was found to be inversely associated with higher intake of ALA in men and with higher intake of EPA in women. When considering the different food sources of ALA for men, an inverse association appeared between severe photoaging and ALA from vegetable oils, as well as with ALA from fruit and vegetables, whereas no association was observed for ALA from dairy products. In women, ALA from vegetable oils also tended to be inversely linked to photoaging.

CONCLUSIONS

These findings suggest a possible benefit effect of n-3 PUFAs on skin aging. Nonetheless, further epidemiological studies are necessary to confirm our results and to gain additional insights into underlying mechanisms.

Non-invasive diffuse reflectance measurements of cutaneous melanin content can predict human sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation

The diversity of human skin phenotypes and the ubiquitous exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) underscore the need for a non-invasive tool to predict an individual's UVR sensitivity. We analysed correlations between UVR sensitivity, melanin content, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DR) and UVR-induced DNA damage in the skin of subjects from three racial/ethnic groups: Asian, black or African American and White. UVR sensitivity was determined by evaluating each subject's response to one minimal erythemal dose (MED) of UVR one day after the exposure. Melanin content was measured using DR and by densitometric analysis of Fontana-Masson staining (FM) in skin biopsies taken from unexposed areas. An individual's UVR sensitivity based on MED was highly correlated with melanin content measured by DR and by FM. Therefore, a predictive model for the non-invasive determination of UVR sensitivity using DR was developed. The MED precision was further improved when we took race/ethnicity into consideration. The use of DR serves as a tool for predicting UVR sensitivity in humans that should be invaluable for determining appropriate UVR doses for therapeutic, diagnostic and/or cosmetic devices.

Dietary monounsaturated fatty acids intake and risk of skin photoaging

BACKGROUND

Intake of monounsaturated fatty acids has been reported to reduce oxidative stress, insulin resistance and related inflammatory processes and may thus protect from skin photoaging. The objective of this study was to investigate the association between the risk of photoaging, monounsaturated fatty acids intake and the sources of monounsaturated fatty acids.

METHODOLOGY/PRINCIPAL FINDINGS

A cross sectional study was conducted within the framework of the SUVIMAX cohort. The survey included 1264 women and 1655 men aged between 45 and 60 years old. Dietary monounsaturated fatty acids intakes were estimated by dietary source through at least ten 24-h diet records completed during the first 2.5 years of the follow-up period. Severity of facial skin photoaging was graded by trained investigators at baseline during a clinical examination using a 6-grade scale illustrated by photographs. A lower risk of severe photoaging was associated with higher intakes of monounsaturated fatty acids from olive oil in both sexes. Strikingly, no association was found with intake of monounsaturated fatty acids from animal sources whether from dairy products, meat or processed meat.

CONCLUSION/SIGNIFICANCE

These findings support the beneficial effect of dietary olive oil or healthy diet habits associated with olive oil consumption on the severity of facial photoaging.

The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin

Human skin is repeatedly exposed to UVR that influences the function and survival of many cell types and is regarded as the main causative factor in the induction of skin cancer. It has been traditionally believed that skin pigmentation is the most important photoprotective factor, as melanin, besides functioning as a broadband UV absorbent, has antioxidant and radical scavenging properties. Besides, many epidemiological studies have shown a lower incidence for skin cancer in individuals with darker skin compared to those with fair skin. Skin pigmentation is of great cultural and cosmetic importance, yet the role of melanin in photoprotection is still controversial. This article outlines the major acute and chronic effects of UVR on human skin, the properties of melanin, the regulation of pigmentation and its effect on skin cancer prevention.

Melanin mediated apoptosis of epidermal cells damaged by ultraviolet radiation: factors influencing the incidence of skin cancer

Ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin cancers, including melanomas and basal/squamous cell carcinomas, occur more frequently in individuals with fair skin than in those with dark skin. Melanin plays an important role in protecting the skin against UV radiation and levels of melanin correlate inversely with amounts of DNA damage induced by UV in human skin of different racial/ethnic groups. The objectives of this study are to review recent progress in our understanding of mechanisms underlying differences in cancer incidence in skins of different colors, particularly between Black and White skin. More specifically, we review DNA damage and apoptosis in various types of skin before and after exposure to UV in our human study protocols using a single UV dose, either one minimal erythema dose (MED) or a similar low dose of 180-200 J/m2. Our data and other published reports indicate that several major mechanisms underlie the increased rates of photocarcinogenesis in fair/light skin. First, UV-induced DNA damage in the lower epidermis (including keratinocyte stem cells and melanocytes) is more effectively prevented in darker skin. Second, rates of repair of DNA damage can differ significantly in individuals. Third, UV-induced apoptosis to remove potentially precancerous cells is significantly greater in darker skin. These results suggest that pigmented epidermis is an efficient UV filter and that UV damaged cells are removed more efficiently in darker skin. The combination of decreased DNA damage and more efficient removal of UV-damaged cells may play a critical role in the decreased photocarcinogenesis seen in individuals with darker skin.

Regulation of human skin pigmentation and responses to ultraviolet radiation

Pigmentation of human skin is closely involved in protection against environmental stresses, in particular exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. It is well known that darker skin is significantly more resistant to the damaging effects of UV, such as photocarcinogenesis and photoaging, than is lighter skin. Constitutive skin pigmentation depends on the amount of melanin and its distribution in that tissue. Melanin is significantly photoprotective and epidermal cells in darker skin incur less DNA damage than do those in lighter skin. This review summarizes current understanding of the regulation of constitutive human skin pigmentation and responses to UV radiation, with emphasis on physiological factors that influence those processes. Further research is needed to characterize the role of skin pigmentation to reduce photocarcinogenesis and to develop effective strategies to minimize such risks.

Cutaneous photobiology. The melanocyte vs. the sun: who will win the final round?

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) is a major environmental factor that dramatically alters the homeostasis of the skin as an organ by affecting the survival, proliferation and differentiation of various cutaneous cell types. The effects of UV on the skin include direct damage to DNA, apoptosis, growth arrest, and stimulation of melanogenesis. Long-term effects of UV include photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Epidermal melanocytes synthesize two main types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Melanin, particularly eumelanin, represents the major photoprotective mechanism in the skin. Melanin limits the extent of UV penetration through the epidermal layers, and scavenges reactive oxygen radicals that may lead to oxidative DNA damage. The extent of UV-induced DNA damage and the incidence of skin cancer are inversely correlated with total melanin content of the skin. Given the importance of the melanocyte in guarding against the adverse effects of UV and the fact that the melanocyte has a low self-renewal capacity, it is critical to maintain its survival and genomic integrity in order to prevent malignant transformation to melanoma, the most fatal form of skin cancer. Melanocyte transformation to melanoma involves the activation of certain oncogenes and the inactivation of specific tumor suppressor genes. This review summarizes the current state of knowledge about the role of melanin and the melanocyte in photoprotection, the responses of melanocytes to UV, the signaling pathways that mediate the biological effects of UV on melanocytes, and the most common genetic alterations that lead to melanoma.

Keratinocytes control the pheo/eumelanin ratio in cultured normal human melanocytes

The pheo/eumelanin ratio of cultured normal human melanocytes is distinct from the ratio observed for the same cells in vivo where they are in close contact with keratinocytes. To study the possible involvement of keratinocytes in the control of melanogenesis, we compared quantitatively and qualitatively the melanin production in melanocyte mono-cultures, in melanocyte-keratinocyte co-cultures and in pigmented reconstructed epidermis. Pheomelanin and eumelanin contents were assessed by high-performance liquid chromatography with electrochemical and fluorometric detection of their specific degradation products and revealed striking differences in the presence of keratinocytes. In the absence of keratinocytes (melanocyte mono-cultures), we observed a very limited eumelanin production and a very high pheomelanin synthesis. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in mono-cultures could be slightly influenced by changing the composition of the culture medium, however, the very strong imbalance in favor of pheomelanin remained unchanged. An induction of eumelanin synthesis accompanied by an important reduction of pheomelanin formation was only observed in the presence of keratinocytes. The pheo/eumelanin ratio in melanocyte mono-culture dropped from 1043 down to about 25 in the presence of keratinocytes (co-cultures). The same observations were made when the melanocytes were integrated into a reconstructed human epidermis. Interestingly, under co-culture conditions resulting in only a partial contact between melanocytes and keratinocytes, the reduction of the pheo/eumelanin ratio were less pronounced. From these results we conclude that keratinocytes play an important role in the melanin production, affecting the melanogenic pathways.

(Pheo)melanin photosensitizes UVA-induced DNA damage in cultured human melanocytes

The question of whether melanins are photoprotecting and/or photosensitizing in human skin cells continues to be debated. To evaluate the role of melanin upon UVA irradiation, DNA single-strand breaks (ssb) were measured in human melanocytes differing only in the amount of pigment produced by culturing at two different concentrations, basic (0.01 mM) or high (0.2 mM), of L-tyrosine, the main precursor of melanin. In parallel, pheo- and total melanin contents of the cells were determined. Identical experiments were performed with two melanocyte cultures derived from a skin type I and a skin type VI individual. For the first time the correlation between UVA-induced genotoxicity and pheo-/total melanin content has been investigated. We observed that cultured in basic medium, the skin type VI melanocytes contained 10 times more total melanin and about seven times more pheomelanin than the skin type I melanocytes. Elevation of tyrosine level in the culture medium resulted in an increase of both pheo- and total melanin levels in both melanocyte cultures; however, the melanin composition of skin type I melanocytes became more pheomelanogenic, whereas that of skin type VI melanocytes remained the same. The skin type VI melanocytes cultured in basic medium demonstrated a very high sensitivity (1.18 ssb per 10(10) Da per kJ per m2) toward UVA that is probably related to their high pheo- and total melanin content. Their UVA sensitivity, however, did not change after increasing their melanin content by culturing at high tyrosine concentration. In contrast, the skin type I melanocytes demonstrated a low sensitivity (0.04 ssb per 10(10) Da per kJ per m2) toward UVA when cultured in basic medium, but increasing their melanin content resulted in a 3-fold increase in their UVA sensitivity (0.13 ssb per 10(10) Da per kJ per m2). These results demonstrate that UVA-irradiated cultured human melanocytes are photosensitized by their own synthesized chromophores, most likely pheomelanin and/or melanin intermediates.

Physiological doses of ultraviolet irradiation induce DNA strand breaks in cultured human melanocytes, as detected by means of an immunochemical assay

An immunochemical assay, i.e. sandwich enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, has been modified to detect UV-induced damage in cellular DNA of monolayer-grown human melanocytes. The method is based on the binding of a monoclonal antibody to single-stranded DNA. The melanocytes derived from human foreskin of skin type II individuals were suspended and exposed to UVA, UVB, solar-simulated light or gamma-rays. Following physiological doses of UVA, UVB or solar-simulated light, a dose-related DNA unwinding comprising a considerable number of single-strand breaks (ssb) was observed. No correlation was found between different seeded cell densities or different culturing periods and the UVA sensitivity of the cells. After UVA irradiation, 0.07 ssb/10(10) Da/kJ/m2 were detected and after UVB irradiation 1.9 ssb/10(10) Da/kJ/m2 were seen. One minimal erythema dose of solar-simulated light induced 2.25 ssb/10(10) Da. Our results from melanocytes expressed in ssb/Da DNA are comparable and have the same sensitivity toward UVA as well as toward UVB as nonpigmented skin cells. As low doses of UVA have already been shown to induce detectable numbers of ssb, this assay is of great interest for further investigations about the photoprotecting and/or photosensitizing effects of melanins in human melanocytes derived from different skin types.

Electron transfer and photoprotective properties of melanins in solution

The polyquinoid nature of eumelanin(s) enables them to couple oxidation of electron donors with the reduction of electron acceptors. We have studied the ability of synthetic (Sigma) and "biological" (cuttlefish sepia) melanins to mediate electron transfer between hydroxybenzene donors (tyrosine, dopa, chemical depigmenters) and model acceptors (ferricyanide, tyrosinase). 1) Depending on the reductant, melanin either retards or accelerates ferricyanide reduction. Reaction kinetics are consistent with a mechanism involving non-interactive binding of both hydroxybenzene and ferricyanide to melanin prior to coupled electron transfer. 2) Melanins also act as an electron conduit in markedly accelerating the tyrosinase-catalyzed oxygenation of p-hydroxyanisole (MMEH). The active species appears to be a complex between melanin and MMEH. The magnitude of both effects depend on the type of melanin as well as its oxidation state. Sepia (eu)melanin appears to protect against UV-induced damage to acid-soluble collagen, as judged by irreversible loss of intrinsic collagen fluorescence. Photoprotection against this type of damage appears primarily to involve optical absorption/scattering by the pigment.

Ex vivo study of skin phototypes

We studied skin phototypes ex vivo to validate a model of epidermal reconstruction with melanocytes. We made autologous epidermal reconstructs with keratinocytes and melanocytes of healthy donors of skin phototypes I to VI. Keratinocytes and melanocytes were seeded on a dead de-epidermized dermis (Pruniéras type) at a 1:20 melanocyte/keratinocyte ratio. Reconstructed epidermis was grown for 15 d at the air-liquid interface with or without ultraviolet B irradiation. A macroscopic, chromometric. histologic, and ultrastructural evaluation was performed. Reconstructs reproduced the initial phototype with few modifications. The intensity of melanin transfer correlated with the in vivo situation and was stimulated after ultraviolet B irradiation in reconstructs of all categories of skin phototypes.

Photoprotection by melanin

This paper is an attempt to summarize the current state of information on melanin and epidermal melanin pigmentation (EMP) as photoprotective agents. The chemistry and biochemistry of melanin (the particle) and its interaction, in its various forms, with UV radiation are considered. Methods of attenuation of UV radiation are discussed in terms of structure and chemical constituents. Photoprotection by constitutive and facultative pigmentation is reviewed with minimum erythema dose (MED) as the end point. The issue of acclimatization to UV radiation is discussed in terms of UVB phototherapy for psoriasis. Finally, skin cancer is considered as an end point and the reduction of its incidence with pigment level is discussed. It is concluded that whilst EMP provides protection, its extent depends on the end point chosen for evaluation. MED is a convenient photobiological end point but is rather insensitive, whereas skin cancer is sensitive but impractical for laboratory studies. Our current state of knowledge of melanin lacks information on its absorption and scattering coefficients and its refractive index. Methods for the quantitative measurement of EMP are also urgently required.

Do pyrimidine dimer yields correlate with erythema induction in human skin irradiated in situ with ultraviolet light (275-365 nm)?

Ultraviolet radiation produces erythema in human skin, and damages the DNA of living cells in skin. Previous work showed that broad-band UV-B (290-320 nm) radiation produced higher levels of cyclobutyl pyrimidine dimers in DNA of individuals with high UV-B sensitivity (low minimal erythema dose) than in subjects of low UV-B sensitivity [Freeman et al. (1986) J. Invest. Dermatol., 86, 34-36]. We examined the relationship between erythema induction and dimer yields in DNA of human skin irradiated in situ with narrow band radiation spanning the wavelength range 275-365 nm. We find that, in general, higher dimer yields are produced per incident photon in volunteers with higher susceptibility to erythema induced by radiation of the same wavelength.

Melanin accelerates the tyrosinase-catalyzed oxygenation of p-hydroxyanisole (MMEH)

Although pigment melanin has long been though of as "inert," recent work has attested to its chemical reactivity. In this communication, we report that either commercial synthetic melanin prepared by persulfate oxidation of tyrosine ("Sigma melanin") or sepia melanin extracted from cuttlefish markedly accelerates the in vitro oxygenation of p-hydroxyanisole (MMEH), catalyzed by mushroom or B-16 melanoma tyrosinase. Kinetics of 4-methoxy-1,2-benzoquinone formation (lambda max = 413 nm) or of molecular O2 uptake were biphasic, with an initial slow rate ("lag time") followed by a fast linear increase. The biphasic response reflects an initial slow hydroxylation followed by a fast dehydrogenation. Added melanin markedly decreased the lag time but had little effect on subsequent dehydrogenation. Similar effects were observed for tyrosine itself. A complex between MMEH and melanin appears to be the "active" species in these reactions. The results indicate that melanin acts as an electron conduit, which accepts electrons from the substrate and transfers them to tyrosinase. The magnitude of the effect depends on the type of melanin as well as on its oxidation state. Kinetic analysis indicates that both melanins are very efficient at transferring electron to tyrosinase, and that Sigma melanin is roughly threefold more efficient than sepia melanin. The qualitative similarity of reaction between the synthetic and "natural" melanins suggests that the former may serve as a first approximation to the in vivo situation. On the other hand, the observed quantitative differences and the sensitivity of these results to the chemical state of melanin suggests that this methodology might eventually be adapted as a non-destructive probe of melanin in situ.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Day-night differences in effects of cosmetic treatments on facial skin. Effects on facial skin appearance

Two groups of 24 healthy caucasian women, similar with regard to age classes (from 19 to 55) as well as fair and dark complexion of skin and hair, volunteered to use during a 14-day span a conventional facial cream (active placebo: AP) and thereafter, during a 21-day span Noctosome (Noctos). The latter is a new generation of liposome made with non-ionic lipids leading to microspheres which include glycopeptides in the aqueous compartment of the vesicle, alpha-tocopherol ester in the membrane-like structure and sphingo-ceramides at the surface of the microspheres. The aim of the study was to test the beneficial effects of Noctos (vsAP) with respectively morning (7-9-hr) and evening (21-23-hr) applications as facial ointments. Observed differences were validated using several statistical tests: ANOVA, cosinor, etc. Subjects were socially synchronized with a diurnal activity from 7 hr to 23 hr and a nocturnal rest. Each day, at fixed clock hours (7, 10, 20 and 23 hr), each subject used visual analogue scales to self-rate a set of variables characterizing facial aspects. Brilliance of complexion and texture of skin exhibited a circadian rhythm (peak time at 10 hr), both with AP and Noctos. The latter produces a beneficial effect with regard to reference values (AP). The evening application of Noctos is more efficient than the morning one. However, the magnitude of this beneficial effect is related both to age (greater for the age class 25-35 years than for younger and older subjects) and to skin complexion (greater for fair than dark complexioned subjects). Major beneficial effects of Noctos in the evening hours are related neither to fatigue nor to mood of the women since the respective circadian rhythms of these variables appear to vary independently from those of facial skin characteristics.