Efficacy of anti-wrinkle products in skin surface appearance: a comparative study using non-invasive methods

Innovative Honey-Based Product and Its Beneficial Effects Measured by Modern Biophysical and Imaging Skin Techniques

BACKGROUND

Honey is widely recognized for its potential benefits in skincare, yet its incorporation into formulations is challenging due to its stickiness. This study aimed to evaluate the effects of hand creams with varying concentrations of multifloral honey (0%, 5%, 10%, and 15% w/w) on skin parameters and to assess their application characteristics.

METHODS

A total of 24 volunteers were divided into two groups, each receiving a blinded pair of creams (0%/10% or 5%/15% honey) to apply on their left and right hands. Instrumental methods (Corneometer®, Tewameter®, Cutometer®, Visioscan®, and Visioline®) were used to measure skin parameters at the baseline, 15 min after the first application, and after 4 weeks of regular use. Sensory characteristics were evaluated through participant questionnaires.

RESULTS

After 4 weeks, honey-infused creams showed notable improvements in skin moisturization (up to 29.7%), smoothness (up to 21.3%), wrinkle area reduction (up to 21.4%), and mean wrinkle depth reduction (up to 11.7%). Among these, the increases in moisturization and reductions in wrinkle depth were statistically significant compared to the placebo. The sensory evaluations revealed no significant differences between formulations, highlighting the vehicle's effectiveness in minimizing the stickiness typically associated with honey.

CONCLUSIONS

This study highlights the efficacy of honey-enriched hand creams in enhancing skin parameters over time while maintaining favorable sensory characteristics. These findings support the use of honey in dermatological formulations and provide insights into overcoming its formulation challenges.

An Open-Label Clinical Trial Analyzing the Efficacy of a Novel Telomere-Protecting Antiaging Face Cream

Telomere length, a hallmark of cellular senescence, decreases with age and is associated with age-related diseases. Environmental factors, including dietary and lifestyle factors, can affect the rate at which telomeres shorten, and telomere protection prevents this from happening. The protection of telomeres by natural molecules has been proposed as an antiaging strategy that may play a role in treating age-related diseases. This study investigated the effect of a cycloartane-type triterpene glycoside (astragaloside IV). Astragaloside IV is one of the primary compounds from the aqueous extract of Astragalus membranaceus, and it provides telomere protection both in vitro and in vivo. In a study cohort with 13 participants, telomere length in human skin samples was analyzed after daily treatment for 4 weeks. A comparison of the average median telomere length between the treatment and control groups (5342 bp vs. 4616 bp p = 0.0168) showed significant results. In the second clinical cohort with 20 participants, skin parameters at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks were measured in vivo. The results show that the product improved hydration by 95%, the skin appeared brighter by 90%, and wrinkle visibility was reduced by 70%. The combination of biologically active compounds in the cream possesses telomere-protecting properties and notable antioxidant activity in vitro and in vivo.

Sunscreens and Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Rice Peptides for the Improvement of Skin Photoaging: A Double-blind, Randomized Placebo-controlled Clinical Study

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20-30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.

The impact of airborne pollution and exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation on skin: mechanistic and physiological insight

For several decades air pollution has been recognized to hit drastically the skin of human body. Air pollutants predominantly accountable for aging, oxidative damage, and inflammatory allergic reactions led to psoriasis, dermatitis, acne, and skin cancer owing to the impaired functions of DNA, proteins, and lipid biomolecules. Elevated air pollution and its detrimental effects along with variations in physiological parameters of the skin are verily the scaffold for anti-pollution assertions and could be recognized as markers. The present article encompasses the salient features of air pollution and UV radiations besides dreadful effects on human skin physiological parameters and some anti-pollution approaches.

An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study Assessing the Efficacy and Safety of Natural Pterostilbene (Pterocarpus marsupium) for Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects

BACKGROUND

Both intrinsic and environmental factors play a role in premature ageing of the skin. Natural extracts have been extensively used to reduce the signs of ageing in recent years. Pterostilbene is a natural analog of resveratrol with therapeutic properties against numerous diseases mainly due to its ability to reduce reactive oxygen species.

METHODS

We studied the anti-aging and skin brightening effect of a 0.4% formulation of natural pterostilbene in healthy volunteers (N=38) in an open-label, single-arm, monocentric study for 8 weeks. The melanogenesis inhibitory, anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase and anti-elastase properties of pterostilbene were evaluated in vitro.

RESULTS

Natural pterostilbene showed significant inhibition of melanogenesis in vitro. Pterostilbene cream (0.4%) was highly effective in reducing markers of aging and induces even skin tone. The product was effective in reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improved skin hydration elasticity and showed no adverse effects.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggest that natural pterostilbene is a safe and effective ingredient for use in cosmetic preparation to reduce the markers of skin ageing and brighten the skin tone.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Clinical Trial Registration India Identifier CTRI/2019/01/017160 [Registered on 18/01/2019].

Analysis of relation between skin elasticity and the entropy of skin image using near-infrared and visible light sources

Skin elasticity has been regarded as one of the main indicators of skin condition. Current measurement devices for skin elasticity are mostly expensive for home-use and should contact the skin surface. As a first step to develop improved methods, we focus on the relation between skin elasticity and the entropy of skin images. Reduced skin elasticity causes wrinkles. It spreads frequency components and increases their randomness in the frequency domain. The randomness is quantified as entropy, which is a measure of the disorder of a system in physics. Therefore, skin elasticity is expected to have a negative relation with entropy. This tendency can be improved by applying penetration depth characteristics according to the wavelength of light. From cheeks and forehead of 12 Korean adults, skin images are acquired with three different light sources (470 nm, 870 nm and broadband light) and skin elasticity is measured. The root mean square error between the measured data and the fitted model is "0.27" (870 nm), "0.49" (broadband light) and "1.42" (470 nm). Furthermore, the results are analyzed by classifying by sex, age and measurement area. This study demonstrates the possibility of developing noncontact home-use devices to measure skin elasticity in the future.

In vivo determination of the skin surface topography and biophysical properties of human hands: Effects of sex and hand dominance

BACKGROUND

The effect of hand dominance on the skin topography and parameters associated with skin health and aging is unknown.

METHODS

Healthy adult volunteers were recruited. The following four strata were enrolled: Group 1: male, right handed; Group 2: male, left handed; Group 3: female, right handed; and Group 4: female, left handed. The differences between groups on their surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) parameters were evaluated. These variables included (a) roughness (SER); (b) smoothness (SESM); (c) scaliness (SESC); and (d) wrinkles (SEW).

RESULTS

A total of twenty subjects were recruited, with five in each stratum. Significant differences between groups were found for SESC [F(7,31) = 2.742, P = .024, partial eta squared = 0.382] and SEW [F(7,31) = 3.705, P = .005, partial eta squared = 0.456]. An evaluation of the descriptive statistics revealed that males had a higher mean SESC value than females and a lower mean SEW value. Moreover, the dominant hand of both sexes had a higher mean SEW value than non-dominant hands.

CONCLUSIONS

Given the evidence of sex and handedness differences in wrinkle genesis and desquamation severity, these factors should be considered in the dermatological treatment and counseling of patients.

Surface Evaluation of Living Skin (SELS) parameter correlation analysis using data taken from astronauts working under extreme conditions of microgravity

BACKGROUND

In space, due to fluid shift a 45% decrease in the skin topography parameter volume (mm³ ) was seen using the VisioScan^® camera. Simultaneously, the parameters roughness, scaling and wrinkles changed dramatically as well. Thus, the present study has the objective to understand the relationship between the SELS parameters under extreme conditions and their application by addressing scientific-dermatological questions.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

SELS measurements were performed on the volar forearms of six astronauts. The Pearson correlation coefficient was used to determine the association between the variables.

RESULTS

A significant correlation was found between the skin topography parameter volume and the skin parameters roughness, scaling and wrinkles. A closer look at each astronaut revealed a significant correlation for all astronauts for the parameters volume and roughness and for more than 65% of the astronauts for the parameters volume and scaling and volume and wrinkles. However, no correlation could be found between the parameters skin hydration and roughness and scaling, respectively.

CONCLUSION

Only the parameter skin volume leads to meaningful data under microgravity. Physiological changes observed by fluid shift are comparable to the skin condition edema on earth. Based on the obtained data, we can conclude that the formulas for the SELS parameters roughness, scaling and wrinkles for this special skin condition need to be reviewed.

Functional Fragments of AIMP1-Derived Peptide (AdP) and Optimized Hydrosol for Their Topical Deposition by Box-Behnken Design

Aminoacyl-tRNA synthetase complex-interacting multifunctional protein 1 (AIMP1)-derived peptide (AdP) has been developed as a cosmeceutical ingredient for skin anti-aging given its fibroblast-activating (FA) and melanocyte-inhibiting (MI) functions. However, a suitable strategy for the topical delivery of AdP was required due to its low-permeable properties. In this study, FA and MI domains of AdP (FA-AdP and MI-AdP, respectively) were determined by functional domain mapping, where the activities of several fragments of AdP on fibroblast and melanocyte were tested, and a hydrosol-based topical delivery system for these AdP fragments was prepared. The excipient composition of the hydrosol was optimized to maximize the viscosity and drying rate by using Box-Behnken design. The artificial skin deposition of FA-AdP-loaded hydrosol was evaluated using Keshary-Chien diffusion cells equipped with Strat-M membrane (STM). The quantification of the fluorescent dye-tagged FA-AdP in STM was carried out by near-infrared fluorescence imaging. The optimized hydrosol showed 127-fold higher peptide deposition in STM than free FA-AdP (p < 0.05). This work suggests that FA- and MI-AdP are active-domains for anti-wrinkle and whitening activities, respectively, and the hydrosol could be used as a promising cosmetic formulation for the delivery of AdPs to the skin.

Comparative efficacy of two anti-aging products containing retinyl palmitate in healthy human volunteers

BACKGROUND

No study yet described the comparative efficacy of two over-the-counter (OTC) anti-aging products in Asian subjects using the techniques involving analysis of living skin.

AIM

We sought to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of two commercial formulations containing retinyl palmitate using a high-resolution UVA video camera.

METHOD

Total 11 healthy male volunteers, agreed to participate in this single-blind split-face design study with the mean age of 25.5 years. Every night, volunteers applied one type of cream on the left side and other type of cream on the right side of the face, as directed according to the study design for 60 days. Measurements of the parameters were taken at 0, 1st, 7th, 15th, 30th, and 60th day of study period using noninvasive UVA video camera Visioscan^® VC98. Cream applied on right side of the face labeled as "R" and on the left side as "L."

RESULTS

Sixty-day use of the creams showed significant improvement in SELS parameters of the skin. Percent change in skin wrinkling (SEw) parameter calculated after 60 days was -6.68% after applying cream R and -8.27% after applying cream L.

CONCLUSION

We concluded that constituents in both creams have potentially influenced skin surface parameters, thus indicating that, these creams as a better option to lessen the effects of aging on facial skin on long-term application.

Efficacy of protein extracts from medium of Adipose-derived stem cells via microneedles on Asian skin

OBJECTIVES

To explore efficacy of protein extracts from medium of Adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) via microneedles on Asian skin in a double-blind, split-face, randomized, control study.

METHODS

Thirty volunteers received the treatment, left-side and right-side of their face were randomly assigned to test side and control side. The protein extracts from medium of ADSCs were applied via microneedles into the test side and ultrapure water was applied into the control side. The only person who knew what was being used by each subject on each side of the face was the therapist. Clinical evaluation including instrument test and self-questionnaire was performed by independent observers before and after the treatment, which lasted for 3 months.

RESULTS

All subjects completed the study. Compared to ultrapure water, the protein extracts from medium of ADSCs showed a statistically significant improvement for melanin index, skin brightness, gloss, skin roughness, elasticity, and wrinkles (p < 0.05). More than 70% of the participants described that all wrinkles, firmness, elasticity, hydration, whitening, and radiance were strongly improved in the test side.

CONCLUSIONS

Protein extracts from medium of ADSCs presented anti-aging and whitening efficacy via microneedles on Asian skin without skin adverse side.

Forearm skin aging: characterization by instrumental measurements

BACKGROUND

The intrinsic ageing and photoaged skin present biomechanical and morphological differences, which are reflected in the appearance of roughness, superficial and deep wrinkles, atrophy, reduced elasticity, hypo- and hyperpigmentation and actinic keratosis.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate and compare the characteristics of the flexor (with a predominance of intrinsic ageing) and extensor (chronically exposed to sunlight and other environmental factors, with a predominance of photoageing) skin surfaces of the forearms.

METHODS

Interventional, prospective, diagnostic study, including 23 females, aged over 60 years. The extensor and flexor faces of forearms were compared in relation to clinical parameters and non-invasive instrumental measurements, such as skin surface, elasticity, hydration as well as dermal thickness and echogenicity.

RESULTS

Regarding the water content of the stratum corneum, the flexor face presented an average value higher than the extensor face. The average of measures obtained through images of high-frequency ultrasound demonstrated greater echogenicity of flexor face compared to the extensor face. The measurements of the skin surface showed significant differences between the faces. The roughness and scaliness were lower in the flexor face. Regarding the depth of wrinkles, there was no significant difference between the faces. The average of the measurements was slightly higher in the flexor face, which demonstrated that wrinkles are present in the intrinsic ageing and photoageing. The presence of elastosis and the reduction in elasticity in the clinical aspect of the photoaged face of forearms were according to the results of the non-invasive measurements.

CONCLUSION

Meaningful differences in the biophysical characteristics of the extensor and flexor faces of the forearms were detected. Because the non-invasive instrumental measurements correlated with clinical findings, they may represent useful tools to assess efficacy and safety of skin ageing treatments in clinical research.

Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin

BACKGROUND

Human skin undergoes distinct changes throughout the aging process, based on both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In a process called photoaging, UVB irradiation leads to upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase-1, which then causes collagen degradation and premature aging. Mixtures of medicinal plants have traditionally been used as drugs in oriental medicine. Based on the previously reported antioxidant properties of Panax ginseng Meyer and Crataegus pinnatifida, we hypothesized that the mixture of P. ginseng Meyer and C. pinnatifida (GC) would have protective effects against skin aging.

METHODS

Anti-aging activity was examined both in human dermal fibroblasts under UVB irradiation by using Western blot analysis and in healthy human skin by examining noninvasive measurements.

RESULTS

In vitro studies showed that GC improved procollagen type I expression and diminished matrix metalloproteinase-1 secretion. Based on noninvasive measurements, skin roughness values, including total roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), smoothness depth and average roughness (R3), and global photodamage scores were improved by GC application. Moreover, GC ameliorated the high values of smoothness depth (R4), which means that GC reduced loss of skin moisture.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that GC can prevent aging by inhibiting wrinkle formation and increasing moisture in the human skin.

The reliability of non-invasive biophysical outcome measures for evaluating normal and hyperkeratotic foot skin

Background

Hyperkeratosis of foot skin is a common skin problem affecting people of different ages. The clinical presentation of this condition can range from dry flaky skin, which can lead to fissures, to hard callused skin which is often painful and debilitating. The purpose of this study was to test the reliability of certain non-invasive skin measurement devices on foot skin in normal and hyperkeratotic states, with a view to confirming their use as quantitative outcome measures in future clinical trials.

Methods

Twelve healthy adult participants with a range of foot skin conditions (xerotic skin, heel fissures and plantar calluses) were recruited to the study. Measurements of normal and hyperkeratotic skin sites were taken using the following devices: Corneometer® CM 825, Cutometer® 580 MPA, Reviscometer® RVM 600, Visioline® VL 650 Quantiride® and Visioscan® VC 98, by two investigators on two consecutive days. The intra and inter rater reliability and standard error of measurement for each device was calculated.

Results

The data revealed the majority of the devices to be reliable measurement tools for normal and hyperkeratotic foot skin (ICC values > 0.6). The surface evaluation parameters for skin: SEsc and SEsm have greater reliability compared to the SEr measure. The Cutometer® is sensitive to soft tissue movement within the probe, therefore measurement of plantar soft tissue areas should be approached with caution. Reviscometer® measures on callused skin demonstrated an unusually high degree of error.

Conclusions

These results confirm the intra and inter rater reliability of the Corneometer®, Cutometer®, Visioline® and Visioscan® in quantifying specific foot skin biophysical properties.

Pectin Micro- and Nano-capsules of Retinyl Palmitate as Cosmeceutical Carriers for Stabilized Skin Transport

Retinyl palmitate (RP)-loaded pectinate micro- and nano-particles (PMP and PNP) were designed for stabilization of RP that is widely used as an anti-wrinkle agent in anti-aging cosmeceuticals. PMP/PNP were prepared with an ionotropic gelation method, and anti-oxidative activity of the particles was measured with a DPPH assay. The stability of RP in the particles along with pectin gel and ethanolic solution was then evaluated. In vitro release and skin permeation studies were performed using Franz diffusion cells. Distribution of RP in each skin tissue (stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis) was also determined. PMP and PNP could be prepared with mean particle size diameters of 593~843 μm (PMP) and 530 nm (i.e., 0.53 μm, PNP). Anti-oxidative activity of PNP was greater than PMP due largely to larger surface area available for PNP. The stability of RP in PMP and PNP was similar but much greater than RP in pectin bulk gels and ethanolic solution. PMP and PNP showed the abilities to constantly release RP and it could be permeated across the model artificial membrane and rat whole skin. RP was serially deposited throughout the skin layers. This study implies RP loaded PMP and PNP are expected to be advantageous for improved anti-wrinkle effects.

Relation between skin micro-topography, roughness, and skin age

BACKGROUND

The topography of the skin surface consists of lines, wrinkles, and scales. Primary and secondary lines form a network like structure that may be identified as polygons. Skin surface roughness measurements are widely applied in dermatological research and practice but the relation between roughness parameters and their anatomical equivalents are unclear. This study aimed to investigate whether the number of closed polygons (NCP) per measurement field can be used as a reliable parameter to measure skin surface topography. For this purpose, we analysed the relation between skin surface roughness parameters and NCP in different age groups.

METHODS

Images of the volar forearm skin of 38 subjects (14 children, 12 younger, and 12 older adults) were obtained with the VisioScan VC98. The NCP was counted by three independent researchers and selected roughness parameters were measured. Interrater reliability of counting the number of closed polygons and correlations between NCP, roughness parameters, and age were calculated.

RESULTS

The mean NCP/mm² in children was 3.1 (SD 1.1), in younger adults 1.0 (SD 0.7), and in older adults 1.0 (SD 0.9). The interrater reliability was 0.9. A negative correlation of NCP/mm² with age was observed, whereas measured roughness parameters were positively associated with age. NCP/mm² was weakly related to skin roughness.

CONCLUSION

The NCP/mm² is a reproducible parameter for characterizing the skin surface topography. It is proposed as an additional parameter in dermatological research and practice because it represents distinct aspects of the cutaneous profile not covered by established roughness parameters.

Reliability and validity of two in vivo measurements for skin surface topography in aged adults

BACKGROUND

The non-contact optical methods phaseshift rapid in vivo measurement of skin (PRIMOS) and surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) are widely applied for measuring skin surface topography. The aims of the present study were to evaluate reliability and validity of these methods and to compare skin roughness intraindividually.

METHODS

SELS and PRIMOS measurements were performed on four skin areas of the left and right volar forearms in 12 healthy elderly subjects. Reliability and correlations were analyzed for Visioscan® and PRIMOS roughness parameters. Student's t-tests for estimating differences between contralateral volar forearm sites were applied.

RESULTS

ICC coefficients of the Visioscan® roughness estimates ranged between 0.50 and 0.95 and of the PRIMOS measurements between 0.01 and 1.00. The Visioscan® parameters SEr, SEsm, Rmax, and Rz, and the PRIMOS parameters Ra, Rz, Smax, Wt, and Sz showed most significant correlations with each other and to additional roughness parameters. Mean roughness differences between contralateral forearm skin areas ranged between 0.0 (SEsc) and 6.7 (Rmax).

CONCLUSIONS

The Visioscan® parameters SEr, Rmax, and Rz showed most reliable and valid values and were largely comparable on contralateral forearm skin sites in elderly subjects. Rmax, Rz, and Ra should be preferred for measuring skin surface topography with PRIMOS.

Enhanced In Vitro Skin Deposition Properties of Retinyl Palmitate through Its Stabilization by Pectin

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of stabilization of retinyl palmitate (RP) on its skin permeation and distribution profiles. Skin permeation and distribution study were performed using Franz diffusion cells along with rat dorsal skin, and the effect of drug concentration and the addition of pectin on skin deposition profiles of RP was observed. The skin distribution of RP increased in a concentration dependent manner and the formulations containing 0.5 and 1 mg of pectin demonstrated significantly increased RP distributions in the epidermis. Furthermore, it was found that skin distribution of RP could be further improved by combined use of pectin and ascorbyl palmitate (AP), due largely to their anti-oxidative effect. These results clearly demonstrate that the skin deposition properties of RP can be improved by stabilizing RP with pectin. Therefore, it is strongly suggested that pectin could be used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations as an efficient stabilizing agent and as skin penetration modulator.

Efficacy of micronutrient supplementation on skin aging and seasonal variation: a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study

Background

Several studies have confirmed dramatic changes in skin surface parameters during the winter months. Although there are many studies supporting the positive effects of topical treatment, there are no published studies demonstrating the effects of oral supplementation in the prevention of negative skin changes during winter. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of an oral micronutrient supplement in preventing the negative effects of winter weather on skin quality using noninvasive biometrologic instruments.

Methods

This study included 80 healthy female volunteers aged 35–55 years with phototype II–IV skin. Randomization was balanced. Two tablets of a micronutrient supplement (Perfectil® Platinum) or placebo were administered once daily for 4 months. The volunteers were examined at baseline, after 4 months, and 6 weeks after termination of treatment (month 5.5). The evaluation included skin microrelief by Visioscan® as the main outcome, and the secondary outcomes were results on standard macrophotography, skin tension by Reviscometer®, skin high-frequency ultrasound, and self-assessment.

Results

For all pseudoroughness and microrelief indicators, there was a significant increase from baseline to month 4 in the placebo group (P<0.05) but no change in the active group. Descriptive statistics for the mean minimum, mean maximum, and minimum to maximum ratio on the nonexposed study zone showed a significant and dramatic difference between baseline and month 4 and between baseline and month 5.5 (P<0.05) in the active group, indicating decreasing anisotropy of the skin. High-frequency ultrasound on the exposed study zone revealed that skin thickness was significantly decreased in the placebo group during winter but was stable in the treated group (P<0.01). The photography scaling and self-assessment questionnaire revealed no significant changes in either group.

Conclusion

These results indicate that the skin is prone to seasonal changes during winter, particularly in exposed areas. The data also indicate that oral supplementation can be a safe treatment, with no serious side effects, and may prevent or even eliminate the negative effects of winter on the skin.

An 8-week face-split study to evaluate the efficacy of cosmeceuticals using non-invasive bioengineering devices

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Even with the increasing demand for functional cosmeceuticals in the recent years, objective standard criteria for assessing their efficacy are currently incomplete at best. In this 8-week face-split study, in which we topically applied high-priced cosmeceuticals on one side and more affordable cosmeceuticals on the other side of the face, we compared the efficacy of these two products using non-invasive bioengineering technology.

METHODS

We assessed the efficacy of a skin-whitening and an anti-wrinkle cosmeceutical product on 25 and 19 healthy female volunteers, respectively. In a single blind split setting, each participant received an 8-week topical application of high-priced cosmeceuticals to the left side of the face, and cheaper cosmeceuticals to the right side. Then, the subjects' biophysical parameters were measured for an objective evaluation of the results. This was followed by a questionnaire to obtain a subjective assessment.

RESULTS

There was no significant difference in the change between the high-priced cosmeceuticals and the more affordable cosmeceuticals. At each measured site, there were variable changes including skin improvement and aggravation at the end of study. The subjective questionnaire demonstrated also that the participants perceived no difference in the efficacy between the two products.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results showed that there were no significant differences in the skin biophysical parameters following the application with high-priced functional cosmeceuticals or less expensive cosmeceuticals. The subject failed to differentiate between the two products. The development of objective standard criteria for assessing its efficacy is essential.

The influences of skin visco-elasticity, hydration level and aging on the formation of wrinkles: a comprehensive and objective approach

BACKGROUND

Various skin parameters including skin visco-elasticity and hydration level affect the formation of wrinkles.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to investigate the comprehensive and objective relationship between age, skin visco-elasticity, hydration level, and the occurrence of wrinkles using bioengineering equipments for the first time.

METHODS

A total number of 97 healthy women were included in this study. Age, Fitzpatrick skin type, skin mechanical parameters obtained with Cutometer(R0~R9), hydration level measured with Corneometer, as well as wrinkle parameters (SEsm, SEr, SEsc, and SEw) assessed with Visioscan, were analyzed with the Pearson's correlation test.

RESULTS

The skin fluidity (R6) increased while the elastic recovery ratio (R7) decreased with the age. The wrinkle parameter (SEw) also increased with the age. The higher skin hysteresis values (R4 and R9) coincided with the higher SEw values. Skin hydration significantly lowered the hysteresis (R9), the wrinkles (SEw), and the depth of wrinkle furrows (R3mr).

CONCLUSION

The elderly have less elastic skin and more wrinkles. Skin hysteresis most closely related with the degree of wrinkles. Drier skin showed more wrinkles and deeper furrows, with wider intervals. On the basis of these objective findings, we propose several skin parameters associated with wrinkles, and hypothesize the mechanism of wrinkle generation.