Mineral oils and waxes in cosmetics: an overview mainly based on the current European regulations and the safety profile of these compounds

The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products

Over the past three decades, the popularity of cosmetic and personal care products has skyrocketed, largely driven by social media influence and the propagation of unrealistic beauty standards, especially among younger demographics. These products, promising enhanced appearance and self-esteem, have become integral to contemporary society. However, users of synthetic, chemical-based cosmetics are exposed to significantly higher risks than those opting for natural alternatives. The use of synthetic products has been associated with a variety of chronic diseases, including cancer, respiratory conditions, neurological disorders, and endocrine disruption. This review explores the toxicological impact of beauty and personal care products on human health, highlighting the dangers posed by various chemicals, the rise of natural ingredients, the intricate effects of chemical mixtures, the advent of nanotechnology in cosmetics, and the urgent need for robust regulatory measures to ensure safety. The paper emphasizes the necessity for thorough safety assessments, ethical ingredient sourcing, consumer education, and collaboration between governments, regulatory bodies, manufacturers, and consumers. As we delve into the latest discoveries and emerging trends in beauty product regulation and safety, it is clear that the protection of public health and well-being is a critical concern in this ever-evolving field.

Modeling, the Optimization of the Composition of Emulgels with Ciclopirox Olamine, and Quality Assessment

The design and development of pharmaceutical products require specific knowledge, time, and investment. Response surface methodology (RSM) is a widely used technique in the design of experiments (DoE) to optimize various processes and products. The aim of this study was to model and produce experimental emulgels containing 1% ciclopirox olamine and to evaluate their physical, rheological, and mechanical properties and their ability to release ciclopirox olamine. The objective was to optimize the composition of the experimental emulgel containing 1% ciclopirox olamine by applying a central composite design based on selected criteria. The surfactant (polysorbate 80) had the greatest influence on the physical, rheological, and mechanical properties of the emulgels, as well as on the release of ciclopirox olamine from these systems. During the optimization process, an emulgel of optimal composition was generated containing 38.27% mineral oil, 6.56% polysorbate 80, and 55.17% hydrogel containing 1% ciclopirox olamine, meeting specified criteria (dependent variables) including the maximum flux of ciclopirox olamine, the minimum sol-gel transition temperature (Tsol/gel), and the minimum particle size of the oil phase. The oil phase particle size (D50) of this emulgel was determined to be 0.337 µm, the system Tsol/gel was 9.1 °C, and the flux of ciclopirox olamine from this gel matrix was calculated to be 1.44 mg/cm2. This emulgel of optimal composition could be used to treat fungal skin diseases.

A Study on Mineral Oil Hydrocarbons (MOH) Contamination in Pig Diets and Its Transfer to Back Fat and Loin Tissues

This study assessed saturated mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOSH) and aromatic mineral oil hydrocarbons (MOAH) levels in grower-finisher feeds for pigs supplemented with 5% crude palm oil (CP), crude olive pomace oil (COP), olive pomace acid oil (OPA), or a blend of CP and OPA (50:50, w/w); the contribution of the lipid source to that contamination; and the ability of pigs to accumulate MOH in back fat and loin tissues after 60 days of trial. MOSH and MOAH were analyzed with liquid chromatography (LC)-gas chromatography (GC)-flame ionization detection (FID) after sample preparation. Among the lipid sources, CP had the lowest MOH levels, but CP feeds showed the highest contamination. This, along with the different MOSH profiles, indicated the presence of more significant contamination sources in the feeds than the lipid source. The higher MOH contamination in CP feeds was reflected in the highest MOSH levels in pig back fat, whereas MOAH were not detected in animal tissues. Also, MOSH bioaccumulation in pig tissues was influenced by the carbon chain length. In conclusion, feed manufacturing processes can determine the MOSH contamination present in animal adipose tissues that can be included in human diets.

Petroleum jelly: A comprehensive review of its history, uses, and safety

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is a widely used topical agent, with a variety of uses in dermatology. Despite its popularity, many myths surround this ubiquitous dermatologic staple. This review details the history of petrolatum and how it is manufactured as well as how its biologic properties make it a great moisturizer. Additionally, data on its potential for flammability, allergenicity, and comedogenicity are detailed, dispelling misconceptions about petrolatum use around oxygen and as a cause of acne. The uses and benefits of petrolatum in dermatology are wide-ranging-a patch test instrument, a vehicle for medicated ointments, and a wound care essential. Given its ubiquitous presence, it is important for dermatologists to understand the history, safety profile, and myths surrounding this humble skincare staple.

Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology

Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.

Toxicity evaluation of Pinus radiata D.Don bark wax for potential cosmetic application

Radiata pine bark is a widely available organic waste, requiring alternative uses due to its environmental impact on soil, fauna, and forest fires. Pine bark waxes could be used as cosmetic substitutes, but their toxicity requires evaluation since pine bark may contain toxic substances or xenobiotics, depending on the extraction process. This study evaluates the toxicity of radiata pine bark waxes obtained through various extraction methods on human skin cells grown in vitro. The assessment includes using XTT to evaluate mitochondrial activity, violet crystal dye to assess cell membrane integrity, and ApoTox-Glo triple assay to measure cytotoxicity, viability, and apoptosis signals. Pine bark waxes extracted via T3 (acid hydrolysis and petroleum ether incubation) and T9 (saturated steam cycle, alkaline hydrolysis, and petroleum ether incubation) exhibit non-toxicity up to 2% concentration, making them a potential substitute for petroleum-based cosmetic materials. Integrating the forestry and cosmetic industries through pine bark wax production under circular economy principles could promote development while replacing petroleum-based materials. Extraction methodology affects pine bark wax toxicity in human skin cells due to the retention of xenobiotic compounds including methyl 4-ketohex-5-enoate; 1-naphthalenol; dioctyl adipate; eicosanebioic acid dimethyl ester; among others. Future research will investigate whether the extraction methodology alters the molecular structure of the bark, affecting the release of toxic compounds in the wax mixture.

Self-assembled Trehalose Amphiphiles as Molecular Gels: A Unique Formulation to Wax-free Cosmetics

Trehalose has been used as an emollient and antioxidant in cosmetics. However, we aimed to explore trehalose amphiphiles as oil structuring agents for the preparation of gel-based lip balms as part of wax-free cosmetics. This article describes the synthesis of trehalose fatty acyl amphiphiles and their corresponding oleogel-based lip balms. Trehalose dialkanoates were synthesized by esterifying the two primary hydroxyls of trehalose with fatty acids (C4-C12) using a facile, regioselective lipase catalysis. The gelation potential of as-synthesized amphiphiles was evaluated in organic solvents and vegetable oils. Stable oleogels were subjected to X-ray diffraction (XRD), thermal (DSC), and rheological studies and further used for the preparation of lip balms. Trehalose dioctanoate (Tr8), trehalose didecanoate (Tr10) were found to be super gelators as their minimum gelation concentration is ≤ 0.2 wt%. XRD studies revealed their hexagonal columnar molecular packing while forming the fibrillar networks. Rheometry proved that the fatty acyl chain length of amphiphiles can influence the strength and flow properties of oleogels. Further rheometry (at 25 °C, 37 °C, and 50 °C) and DSC studies have validated that Tr8- and Tr10-based oleogels are stable for commercial applications. Tr8- and Tr10-based olive oil oleogels were used for the preparation of lip balms. The preliminary results suggested that the cumulative effect of trehalose's emolliency and vegetable oil gelling nature can be achieved with trehalose amphiphiles, specifically, Tr8 and Tr10. This study has also demonstrated that Tr8- and Tr10-based lip balms can be used as an alternative to beeswax and plant wax lip balms, indicating their huge potential to succeed as a new paradigm to formulate wax-free cosmetics.

The Synergy between Pharmacological Regimens and Dermocosmetics and Its Impact on Adherence in Acne Treatment

Background

Acne is the most common inflammatory skin disease in adolescence. It is also prevalent in adults, especially females. The disease has a considerable impact on health-related quality of life. Many studies have reported the negative impact of acne on patients due to skin disfigurement, ineffective treatment, and adverse effects of the treatment. Numerous factors contribute towards nonadherence to therapy. Summary. This review discusses the various factors that are related to treatment nonadherence such as ineffective therapy, adverse effects with topical pharmacotherapy such as skin irritation and erythema as well as patient-related factors such as lack of knowledge of disease and a poor patient-physician relationship. Various methods are being adopted to increase adherence to treatments. Increased adherence to acne therapy has been associated with the use of dermocosmetics, such as moisturizers and cleansers. Encouraging the use of dermocosmetics in synergy with pharmacological regimens could support improved treatment adherence resulting in better clinical outcomes for acne patients.

Conclusion

Dermocosmetics as an adjunct to pharmacological regimens has the potential to improve clinical outcomes by increasing treatment adherence in patients with acne.

Development of Olive Oil and α-Tocopherol Containing Emulsions Stabilized by FucoPol: Rheological and Textural Analyses

Biobased raw materials like natural polysaccharides are increasingly sought by the cosmetic industry for their valuable properties. Such biodegradable and usually non-cytotoxic biopolymers are commonly used in skin-care products as rheological modifiers, bioemulsifiers and/or bioactive ingredients. FucoPol is a natural polysaccharide with reported biocompatibility, emulsion-forming and stabilizing capacity, shear-thinning behavior and bioactivity (e.g., antioxidant capacity, wound healing ability) that potentiate its utilization in skin-care products. In this study, olive oil and α-tocopherol containing emulsions were stabilized with FucoPol. Although the presence of α-tocopherol negatively impacted the emulsions’ stability, it increased their emulsification index (EI). Moreover, FucoPol outperformed the commercial emulsifier Sepigel^® 305, under the tested conditions, with higher EI and higher stability under storage for 30 days. The formulation of FucoPol-based emulsions with olive oil and α-tocopherol was studied by Response Surface Methodology (RSM) that allowed the definition of the ingredients’ content to attain high emulsification. The RSM model established that α-tocopherol concentration had no significant impact on the EI within the tested ranges, with optimal emulsification for FucoPol concentration in the range 0.7–1.2 wt.% and olive oil contents of 20–30 wt.%. Formulations with 25 wt.% olive oil and either 0.5 or 2.0 wt.% α-tocopherol were emulsified with 1.0 wt.% or 0.7 wt.% FucoPol, respectively, resulting in oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. The emulsions had similar shear-thinning behavior, but the formulation with higher FucoPol content displayed higher apparent viscosity, higher consistency, as well as higher firmness, adhesiveness and cohesiveness, but lower spreadability. These findings show FucoPol’s high performance as an emulsifier for olive oil/α-tocopherol, which are supported by an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural characteristics of the emulsions. Hence, this natural polysaccharide is a potential alternative to other emulsifiers.

Quality, Key Production Factors, and Consumption Volume of Niche Edible Oils Marketed in the European Union

Consumer’s awareness of the health-promoting aspects of food and their search for products with high nutritional value is driving increased interest in niche oils. Such oils are produced on a small scale due to limited access to raw material and its low oil content. The aim of this multi-criteria analysis was to position niche oils. Data for the study were collected based on a literature review regarding twenty-three niche oils available on the European Union market. Analysis of quality parameters, key production factors, waste reusability, and average annual consumption volume in 2015–2020 was performed. Based on the research, it was concluded that linseed (flaxseed) oil, hemp oil, mustard oil, raspberry seed oil, and sesame oil should be of the most interest to consumers. They are characterized by the highest content of tocopherols, sterols, polyphenols, and carotenoids, a favorable ratio of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, and pro-ecological and sustainable production technology. Based on the results of the study, the need for empirical research was identified, the key to filling the knowledge gaps in the area of edible niche oils.

In silico predictions of absorption of MDI substances after dermal or inhalation exposures to support a category based read-across assessment

Methylenediphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) substances used polyurethane production can range from their simplest monomeric forms (e.g., 4,4'-MDI) to mixtures of the monomers with various homologues, homopolymer, and prepolymer derivatives. The relative dermal or inhalation absorption of 39 constituents of these substances in human were predicted using the GastroPlus® program. Predicted dermal uptake and absorption of the three MDI monomers from an acetone vehicle was 84-86% and 1.4-1.5%, respectively, with lower uptake and absorption predicted for the higher MW analogs. Lower absorption was predicted from exposures in a more lipophilic vehicle (1-octanol). Modeled inhalation exposures afforded the highest pulmonary absorption for the MDI monomers (38-54%), with 3-27% for the MW range of 381-751, and <0.1% for the remaining, higher MW derivatives. Predicted oral absorption, representing mucociliary transport, ranged from 5 to 10% for the MDI monomers, 10-25% for constituents of MW 381-751, and ≤3% for constituents with MW > 900. These in silico evaluations should be useful in category-based, worst-case, Read-Across assessments for MDI monomers and modified MDI substances for potential systemic effects. Predictions of appreciable mucociliary transport may also be useful to address data gaps in oral toxicity testing for this category of compounds.

Effect of the Physicochemical Properties of Liquid Paraffin on the Phase State and Rheological Properties of Lecithin Reverse Wormlike Micelles

Lecithin reverse wormlike micelles (LRWs) have been studied recently for dermal application dosage use but the effects of the physicochemical properties of oils on the formation and rheological properties of LRWs have not been investigated. We studied the effect of oil on the formation of LRWs using 5 types of liquid paraffin (LP) with kinematic viscosities ranging from 4.00 to 88.0 mm²/s. Partial phase diagrams of lecithin/water/LP systems indicated that LPs with low molecular weights could form LRWs with only a small amount of water, but LPs with high molecular weights could not form LRWs, regardless of the water concentration. The solubility of lecithin in LPs was higher for low molecular weight LPs, thus possibly affecting the formation of LRWs. The zero-shear viscosity and relaxation time of LRWs initially increased with increasing water concentration, and then decreased. The water concentration providing the maximum value was dependent on the molecular weight of the LP, whereas the maximum amount and length of the LRWs were independent of the water concentration. Our results indicate that the molecular weight of LP affects the ease of formation and the viscoelasticity of LRWs.

Implications of a Diabetic Foot Xerosis Treatment With an Emulsion Containing the Plant-Based Anionic Phospholipids

Purpose:

This study compares and contrasts a skin cream containing plant-based anionic polar phospholipid (APP) technology with a mineral oil hydrocarbon (petrolatum)-based (MHB) skin cream technology in the treatment of skin xerosis (dryness) in diabetic feet. Skin cream with APP technology promotes phospholipid absorption, reparation of intercellular lamellae, and organization of water promoting hydration; whereas skin cream with mineral hydrocarbon-based (MHB) technology principally covers skin, preventing dehydration.

Methods:

Subjects (n = 54) with diagnoses of diabetes mellitus and foot skin dryness were studied using a multicenter, double-blind, masked-study design. An emulsion cream containing 0.05% APP in triglycerides (APP preparation) was compared to MHB skin cream, Eucerin^® (MHB preparation) applied topically to skin of the feet. Graded measurements were recorded on 4 efficacy variables including dryness, erythema, fissures, and itching and neurovascular assessments. Implications of the plant-based and mineral-based skin creams in the context of skin xerosis are contrasted.

Results:

APP and MHB preparations were similar in effectiveness and safety. There was no significant difference among any of the 4 efficacy variables (P < .5) including neurovascular measurements. The APP preparation is absorbed into the skin, whereas the MHB skin cream leaves detectable residues after each application.

Conclusion:

Although the APP and MHB preparations were not significantly different in effectiveness and safety, distinctively, application of the APP skin cream preparation absorbed into the skin leaving no discernible residue in contrast to the MHB preparation leaving residues potentiating textile damage. Both of these technologies function in the hydration of skin; however, they differ in their modes of action. The plant-based APP preparation functions actively by phospholipid and triglyceride absorption, reparation of skin lamellae, and in the consequent delivery and organization of waters of hydration in skin. The MHB preparation functions passively, hydrating the skin it covers by sealing the skin against dehydration.

Chemical upcycling ofpolymers

As the production volume of polymers increases, so does the amount of plastic waste. Plastic recycling is one of the concepts to address in this issue. Unfortunately, only a small fraction of plastic waste is recycled. Even with the development of polymers for closed loop recycling that can be in theory reprocessed infinitely the inherent dilemma is that because of collection, cleaning and separation processes the obtained materials simply are not cost competitive with virgin materials. Chemical upcycling, the conversion of polymers to higher valuable products, either polymeric or monomeric, could mitigate this issue. In the following article, we highlight recent examples in this young but fast-growing field. This article is part of the theme issue 'Bio-derived and bioinspired sustainable advanced materials for emerging technologies (part 2)'.

Big eyes can't see microplastics: Feeding selectivity and eco-morphological adaptations in oral cavity affect microplastic uptake in mud-dwelling amphibious mudskipper fish

Microplastic contamination is a widespread global problem. Plastic pollution in the oceans has received a lot of news coverage, but there is a significant gap in our knowledge about its effect in estuarine areas and a profound regional bias in available information. Here, we estimated the degree of microplastic pollution, its impact on a selected fish, and its function as a vector for heavy metals in the Ulhas River estuary, which is one of the most fragile, polluted, and anthropogenically impacted estuaries in India. Using mudskipper fish, we have also assessed how the feeding guild and ecomorphological adaptations in the feeding apparatus affected the microplastic intake and life history traits of the fish. Sediment, water and fish samples were collected from three sampling localities (S1, S2 and S3) in the Ulhas River estuary and analysed. Findings showed an increase in microplastic abundance from S1 (suburban) to S3 (urban industrial belt) in sediment (96.67-130.0 particles kg^-1), water (0.28-0.41 particles L^-1) and fish (3.75-6.11 particles per fish). Fragments, followed by pellets and filaments largely contribute to the plastic morphotypes in sediment and water. FTIR analysis revealed polymers of anthropogenic and industrial origin such as polypropylene, Surlyn ionomer, low-density polyethylene, and polyethylene or polybutylene terephthalate. Only filaments were found in the guts of 74% of the mudskippers examined, which may be due to their filter-feeding habit and unique anatomical arrangement of oral structures that effectively filter large microplastic particles. Microplastic abundance showed a strong negative correlation with condition factor, fullness index and hepatosomatic index of fish. SEM-EDS analysis revealed that the microplastic surface topography played an important part in adsorbing heavy metals from a water body containing these contaminants. Results highlight the contamination of vulnerable estuarine habitats, harmful effects on resident biota, and health threats to dependent populations.

Chronic Oral Administration of Mineral Oil Compared With Corn Oil: Effects on Gut Permeability and Plasma Inflammatory and Lipid Biomarkers

We investigated the effects of chronic oral administration of mineral oil, versus corn oil as control, on intestinal permeability, inflammatory markers, and plasma lipids in APOE*3-Leiden.CETP mice. Mice received mineral oil or corn oil 15 or 30 μL/mouse/day for 16 weeks (15 mice/group). Intestinal permeability was increased with mineral versus corn oil 30 µL/day, shown by increased mean plasma FITC-dextran concentrations 2 h post-administration (11 weeks: 1.5 versus 1.1 μg/ml, p = 0.02; 15 weeks: 1.7 versus 1.3 μg/ml, p = 0.08). Mean plasma lipopolysaccharide-binding protein levels were raised with mineral versus corn oil 30 µL/day (12 weeks: 5.8 versus 4.4 μg/ml, p = 0.03; 16 weeks: 5.8 versus 4.5 μg/ml, p = 0.09), indicating increased intestinal bacterial endotoxin absorption and potential pro-inflammatory effects. Plasma cholesterol and triglyceride concentrations were decreased with mineral oil, without affecting liver lipids among treated groups. Fecal neutral sterol measurements indicated increased fecal cholesterol excretion with mineral oil 30 µL/day (+16%; p = 0.04). Chronic oral administration of mineral oil in APOE*3-Leiden.CETP mice increased intestinal permeability, with potential pro-inflammatory effects, and decreased plasma cholesterol and triglyceride levels. Our findings may raise concerns about the use of mineral oil as a placebo in clinical studies.

Preparation, Characterization and Evaluation of Organogel-Based Lipstick Formulations: Application in Cosmetics

1,3:2,4-Dibenzylidene-D-sorbitol (DBS) and 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA) are well-known as low-molecular-weight organogelators (LMOGs) capable of gelling an organic liquid phase. Considering their unique chemical and physical properties, we assessed their potential effects in new lipstick formulations by discrimination testing; in vitro measurements of the sun protection factor (SPF); and thermal, mechanical and texture analyzes. DBS and 12-HSA were used to formulate four types of lipsticks: L1 (1% DBS), L2 (10% 12-HSA), L3 (1.5% DBS) and L4 (control, no LMOGs). The lipsticks were tested for sensory perception with an untrained panel of 16 consumers. LMOG formulations exhibited higher UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) and in vitro SPF, particularly in the 12-HSA-based lipstick. Regarding thermal properties, the 12-HSA-based lipstick and those without LMOGs were more heat-amenable compared to thermoresistant DBS-based lipsticks. The results also showed the viscoelastic and thermally reversible properties of LMOGs and their effect of increasing pay-off values. In general, the texture analysis indicated that 12-HSA-based lipstick was significantly harder to bend compared to control, while the other formulations became softer and easier to bend throughout the stability study. This work suggests the potential use of LMOGs as a structuring agent for lipsticks, paving the way towards more photoprotective and sustainable alternatives.

Lipids from Microalgae for Cosmetic Applications

In recent years, there has been considerable interest in using microalgal lipids in the food, chemical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Several microalgal species can accumulate appreciable lipid quantities and therefore are characterized as oleaginous. In cosmetic formulations, lipids and their derivatives are one of the main ingredients. Different lipid classes are great moisturizing, emollient, and softening agents, work as surfactants and emulsifiers, give consistence to products, are color and fragrance carriers, act as preservatives to maintain products integrity, and can be part of the molecules delivery system. In the past, chemicals have been widely used but today’s market and customers’ demands are oriented towards natural products. Microalgae are an extraordinary source of lipids and other many bioactive molecules. Scientists’ attention to microalgae cultivation for their industrial application is increasing. For the high costs associated, commercialization of microalgae and their products is still not very widespread. The possibility to use biomass for various industrial purposes could make microalgae more economically competitive.

Effects of mineral oil administration on the pharmacokinetics, metabolism and pharmacodynamics of atorvastatin and pravastatin in mice and dogs

We investigated the effects of mineral oil on statin pharmacokinetics and inflammatory markers in animal models. A new synthesis strategy produced regioisomers that facilitated the characterization of the main metabolite (M1) of atorvastatin, a lipophilic statin, in C57BL/6NCrl mice. The chemical structure of M1 in mice was confirmed as ortho-hydroxy β-oxidized atorvastatin. Atorvastatin and M1 pharmacokinetics and inflammatory markers were assessed in C57BL6/J mice given atorvastatin 5 mg/kg/day or 10 mg/kg/day, as a single dose or for 21 days, with or without 10 µL or 30 µL mineral oil. No consistent differences in plasma exposure of atorvastatin or M1 were observed in mice after single or repeat dosing of atorvastatin with or without mineral oil. However, mice administered atorvastatin 10 mg/kg with 30 µL mineral oil for 21 days had significantly increased plasma levels of serum amyloid A (mean 9.6 µg/mL vs 7.9 µg/mL without mineral oil; p < 0.01) and significantly increased proportions of C62L^high B cells (mean 18% vs 12% without mineral oil; p = 0.04). There were no statistically significant differences for other inflammatory markers assessed. In dogs, pharmacokinetics of atorvastatin, its two hydroxy metabolites and pravastatin (a hydrophilic statin) were evaluated after single administration of atorvastatin 10 mg plus pravastatin 40 mg with or without 2 g mineral oil. Pharmacokinetics of atorvastatin, hydroxylated atorvastatin metabolites or pravastatin were not significantly different after single dosing with or without mineral oil in dogs. Collectively, the results in mice and dogs indicate that mineral oil does not affect atorvastatin or pravastatin pharmacokinetics, but could cause low-grade inflammation with chronic oral administration, which warrants further investigation.

Current opinion on risk assessment of cosmetics

Risk assessment of cosmetic ingredients is a useful scientific method to characterize potential adverse effects resulting from using cosmetics. The process of risk assessment consists of four steps: hazard identification, dose-response assessment, exposure assessment, and risk characterization. Hazard identification of chemicals refers to the initial stage of risk assessment and generally utilizes animal studies to evaluate toxicity. Since 2013, however, toxicity studies of cosmetic ingredients using animals have not been permitted in the EU and alternative toxicity test methods for animal studies have momentum to be developed for cosmetic ingredients. In this paper, we briefly review the alternative test methods that are available for cosmetic ingredients including read-across, in silico, in chemico, and invitro methods. In addition, new technologies such as omics and artificial intelligence (AI) have been discussed to expand or improve the knowledge and hazard identification of cosmetic ingredients. Aggregate exposure of cosmetic ingredients is another safety issue and methods for its improvement were reviewed. There have been concerns over the safety of nano-cosmetics for a long time, but the risk of nano-cosmetics remains unclear. Therefore, current issues of cosmetic risk assessment are discussed and expert opinion will be provided for the safety of cosmetics.

Lipidic Matrixes Containing Clove Essential Oil: Biological Activity, Microstructural and Textural Studies

Clove essential oil (CEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, but the poor stability of its components to light and temperature compromise this activity. The aim of this study is to evaluate the textural, antioxidant, antimicrobial and microstructural properties of matrixes produced with representative natural waxes and CEO. Thus, waxy emulsifiers, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed to create such matrixes. The thermal, microstructural, textural, wetting, antioxidant, antimicrobial and infrared characteristics of the matrixes were then studied. The diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beeswax and ozokerite wax, respectively) explained the differences in wetting, texture, melting, and crystallization characteristics. Crystal forms of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to needle-like shape, but keeping an orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of beeswax and ozokerite wax into needle-like crystals increased the matrix strength and adhesion force compared to those of carnauba and candelilla matrixes, which showed weak strength and grainy morphology. The former two waxes and their matrixes also showed the largest plasticity. These lipidic matrixes show potential use for topical applications having acceptable antioxidant and textural properties.

Do Claims about the Naturalness and Dose of Cosmetics Ingredients Affect the Public’s Perception of Their Safety?

Media articles have claimed that “synthetic mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH)”, which are used in many cosmetics such as lip balms, are unsafe at any dose and should be replaced with natural alternatives. This paper examines whether these claims are correct and whether the perceived safety of these substances is influenced by the language used in the media. To achieve these goals, it first provides an extensive review of the toxicology literature, finding no support that MOSHs are unsafe at current usage levels. It then reviews the psychology literature to examine the effects of labelling a cosmetic ingredient as “natural” rather than “synthetic” and the effects of dose information. A 2 × 2 between-subjects experiments involving adult lip balm users shows that, as hypothesized, the perceived safety of lip balms increases when they are described as containing “naturally sourced mineral oil” rather than “synthetic mineral oil saturated hydrocarbon (MOSH)”, which are both correct descriptions. In addition, the perceived safety increases when the substance is described as being present in a low vs. a high dose, regardless of whether it was described as natural or synthetic. Overall, safety perceptions for common cosmetic substances can be significantly influenced by the language used in media reporting.

Lipid-based formulations in cosmeceuticals and biopharmaceuticals

The fatty acids containing plant oils have been used as components of cosmetic formulations, and the best cosmetic function has been established for unsaturated fatty acids present in triglycerides. Many oils, fats, waxes, and phospholipids are employed as excipients in cosmetics and personal care products. Antioxidants such as carotenoids, retinoids, and tocopherols are used for their antioxidant properties because of their importance in therapeutic care. For skin care, the most important are oils with high contents of linoleic and α-linolenic acid which reduce the formation of eczemas or atopic dermatitis. These essential fatty acids incorporate into the cell membranes and regenerate the damaged lipid barrier of epidermis and restrict water loss. The unsaturated fatty acids show prominent healing effects on skin inflammation and are used in various cosmetic products. Mineral oils and waxes are also used in several products due to their property of skin tolerance, protection, cleansing, and viscosity. As cosmeceutical formulation, the nanoformulations are effective against irritated and inflamed skin and effective for therapy of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. The lipid nanoparticles offer advantages of chemical stability and good skin compatibility that can be used for protection against radiation and aging.