1
|
Marques GDA, Hiraishi CF, Macedo PIDS, Pinto CASDO, Gregório J, Rosado C, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) protocol: Selection of the subjects and approach to present the results. Int J Cosmet Sci 2023; 45:647-654. [PMID: 37265451 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12874] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/25/2023] [Revised: 05/23/2023] [Accepted: 05/29/2023] [Indexed: 06/03/2023]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Nowadays, it is recognized the need for improved safety and efficacy protocols to evaluate the human stratum corneum (SC) and its interaction with topical and cosmetic formulations by minimally or non-invasive methodologies. The aim of our research work was to streamline the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum) methodology, by exploring the results of a group of 18 subjects. METHODS The study included nine women and nine men aged between 19 and 57 years old with phototypes from II to V. Sites in the forearm of each volunteer were randomly delimited, and the SC was collected by tape stripping. HPLC was used to quantify the MDA-TBA2 (malondialdehyde-thiobarbituric acid) adduct from the tape-stripped SC, irradiated and not by an ultraviolet (UV) simulator chamber. RESULTS Observing the findings of our present investigation, and the statistical approach applied, the use of the ratio between the treatment site and control would be an adequate strategy to better discriminate and evaluate the results. Additionally, an optimal selection of the volunteers to respond specifically to the purpose of the ex vivo assay also can be considered advantageous. CONCLUSIONS It seemed that in future studies focusing on the impact of SC UV-induced lipid peroxidation, determined by the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC, the most suitable subjects are females aged less than 35 years old, with phototype II.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
| | - Camila Faustino Hiraishi
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Pedro Ivo de Souza Macedo
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | | | - João Gregório
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | | | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| |
Collapse
|
2
|
Moskwa J, Bronikowska M, Socha K, Markiewicz-Żukowska R. Vegetable as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Photoprotective Properties: Implication in the Aging Process. Nutrients 2023; 15:3594. [PMID: 37630784 PMCID: PMC10459432 DOI: 10.3390/nu15163594] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/10/2023] [Revised: 08/11/2023] [Accepted: 08/15/2023] [Indexed: 08/27/2023] Open
Abstract
The skin, as an external organ, protects the entire body against harmful external factors. One of these factors is ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which in excessive amounts can lead to premature skin aging, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Therefore, it is worth supporting skin protection not only with commercially available preparations, but also with a proper diet. Consuming certain vegetables and applying them topically may reduce the effects of UV radiation. The aim of the review was to collect information on the effects of vegetables and their compounds on the skin when used externally or included in the diet. This review summarizes studies on vegetables, such as broccoli, cucumber, kale, tomato, and carrot, which have shown significant activity in skin photoprotection. Additionally, it outlines the bioactive substances present in these vegetables and their effects.
Collapse
|
3
|
In Vitro Photoprotection and Functional Photostability of Sunscreen Lipsticks Containing Inorganic Active Compounds. COSMETICS 2023. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10020046] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 03/11/2023] Open
Abstract
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is a safe inorganic ultraviolet (UV) filter with activity against UV damage. However, the recombination of the carrier’s charge and the tendency for TiO2 aggregation are the main disadvantages. Substrate supports, such as mesoporous silica, are biocompatible strategies to incorporate TiO2, altering its interaction with the skin. Since the lips are sensitive to the adversities of the environment, including UV radiation, the application of lipstick sunscreens is of great importance and expected to provide protection for this particular area against sunburn and photoaging, among other unfavorable responses unprotected UV exposure. We investigated the in vitro photoprotective efficacy and photostability of lipstick formulations containing TiO2 incorporated into mesoporous silica (SBA-15). The samples were the lipstick base; SBA-15; TiO2 (free form); and TiO2 incorporated into SBA-15. The photoprotective efficacy was characterized in vitro using a Labsphere UV2000S. Lipsticks were irradiated in a Suntest CPS+ chamber to evaluate functional photostability. Lipstick base and SBA-15 alone did not display photoprotective efficacy. The sample containing 10.0% TiO2 incorporated into the mesoporous silica generated greater photostability and sun protection factor (SPF) value compared to the one containing only 10.0% TiO2 (free state). Our findings suggest that TiO2 + SBA-15 can be considered a broad-spectrum ingredient for innovative sunscreens, particularly for the photoprotection of the lips.
Collapse
|
4
|
Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone. COSMETICS 2023. [DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics10010011] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/06/2023] Open
Abstract
Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.
Collapse
|
5
|
Resende DISP, Jesus A, Sousa Lobo JM, Sousa E, Cruz MT, Cidade H, Almeida IF. Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens. Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2022; 15:ph15030372. [PMID: 35337168 PMCID: PMC8949675 DOI: 10.3390/ph15030372] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/16/2022] [Revised: 03/09/2022] [Accepted: 03/14/2022] [Indexed: 12/04/2022] Open
Abstract
The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- Diana I. S. P. Resende
- CIIMAR—Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal; (D.I.S.P.R.); (H.C.)
- Laboratório de Química Orgânica e Farmacêutica, Departamento de Ciências Químicas, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade do Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Ana Jesus
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - José M. Sousa Lobo
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Emília Sousa
- CIIMAR—Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal; (D.I.S.P.R.); (H.C.)
- Laboratório de Química Orgânica e Farmacêutica, Departamento de Ciências Químicas, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade do Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Correspondence: (E.S.); (I.F.A.); Tel.: +351-220-428-689 (E.S.); +351-220-428-621 (I.F.A.)
| | - Maria T. Cruz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3004-531 Coimbra, Portugal;
- Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Honorina Cidade
- CIIMAR—Centro Interdisciplinar de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal; (D.I.S.P.R.); (H.C.)
- Laboratório de Química Orgânica e Farmacêutica, Departamento de Ciências Químicas, Faculdade de Farmácia, Universidade do Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Isabel F. Almeida
- Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal; (A.J.); (J.M.S.L.)
- UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Correspondence: (E.S.); (I.F.A.); Tel.: +351-220-428-689 (E.S.); +351-220-428-621 (I.F.A.)
| |
Collapse
|
6
|
Ruscinc N, Morocho-Jácome AL, Martinez RM, Magalhães WV, Escudeiro CC, Giarolla J, Rosado C, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract associated with octocrylene, bisoctrizole and titanium dioxide: in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate safety and efficacy. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:4765-4774. [PMID: 35029052 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14779] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/17/2021] [Accepted: 01/10/2022] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The harmful effects induced by ultraviolet exposition and the significant increment in skin cancer diagnosis confirm the necessity to develop effective and safe sunscreens. Limited efficacy and cutaneous adverse reactions of traditional formulations drove the incorporation of natural extracts into multifunctional sunscreens. Vaccinium myrtillus L. extract (VME), that contains anthocyanins and flavonoids, is a potential candidate for such systems. METHODS Considering that, we performed in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF), photostability and safety of sunscreen samples containing VME. RESULTS As main results, the SPF was reduced in both in vitro and in vivo evaluation in the presence of VME, nonetheless, the samples were photostable and safe. CONCLUSION Further investigation is required to better understand the unexpected effects of VME over photoprotection, decreasing the SPF value. As a conclusion, even with interesting findings, we highlight the importance of case-by-case investigations to develop multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- Nadia Ruscinc
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Renata Miliani Martinez
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | | | | | - Jeanine Giarolla
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | | | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, Brazil
| |
Collapse
|
7
|
Kim M, Shin S, Ryu D, Cho E, Yoo J, Park D, Jung E. Evaluating the Sun Protection Factor of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Afzelin. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo) 2021; 69:1039-1044. [PMID: 34456215 DOI: 10.1248/cpb.c21-00398] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/22/2022]
Abstract
Exposure to UV radiation damages the skin and increases the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreen is used to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. However, the chemical UV filters used in sunscreen can show toxicity and cause allergic reactions. A safe sunscreen that includes a lower content of chemical UV filters and exerts an excellent effect on UV protection needs to be developed. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the addition of afzelin to sunscreen could improve the sun protection factor (SPF). A synergistic effect between afzelin and organic sunscreen agents including padimate O and oxybenzone was confirmed. Interestingly, 100% in vitro SPF-boosting was observed when afzelin (0.05%) was applied with a standard SPF formulation containing organic sunscreens while afzelin alone had no contribution to the SPF. In vivo SPF analysis of the standard SPF formulation showed an SPF value of 13.3 that increased to 20.1 when supplemented with afzelin (0.05%). Additionally, afzelin showed no skin irritation in a human trial. These results suggest that afzelin is useful as a natural additive in sunscreen formulations and provides an SPF-boosting effect. Afzelin supplementation to the formulation showed the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors, which could minimize the risk of synthetic agent toxicity.
Collapse
|
8
|
Ex vivo penetration analysis and anti-inflammatory efficacy of the association of ferulic acid and UV filters. Eur J Pharm Sci 2020; 156:105578. [PMID: 32998032 DOI: 10.1016/j.ejps.2020.105578] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/19/2020] [Revised: 09/03/2020] [Accepted: 09/24/2020] [Indexed: 12/15/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and sunscreens are essential to health, however, traditional products do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations seems to be a more efficacious approach, since these enable the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and maintain the cutaneous homeostasis. OBJECTIVES In the present study, ferulic acid (FA), a well-known antioxidant, has been combined with two UV filters, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, and the safety and efficacy of this formulation has been assessed combining ex vivo and in vivo methods. METHODS Skin permeation assays were performed by applying the formulation in the volar forearm of participants, after which consecutive samples of the stratum corneum were collected by tape stripping, and the quantification of FA, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Also, the FA anti-inflammatory action in combination with the UV filters was probed through a method employing Laser Doppler flowmetry to measure the vasodilatory response to methyl nicotinate topical application. RESULTS Skin permeation assay was able to characterize the penetration depth of each substance. It should also be noted that a specific HPLC analytical method was developed in this study to enable the rapid simultaneous quantification of the three substances. Results from Laser Doppler flowmetry showed that the FA was able to mitigate the vasodilatory response. CONCLUSIONS FA proved to be a valuable resource in a multifunction sunscreen, not only providing an increase in the SPF of sunscreens, previously published, but also decreasing the extent of inflammation.
Collapse
|
9
|
Morocho-Jácome AL, Freire TB, de Oliveira AC, de Almeida TS, Rosado C, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review. J Cosmet Dermatol 2020; 20:729-737. [PMID: 32649016 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13609] [Citation(s) in RCA: 18] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/30/2020] [Revised: 07/02/2020] [Accepted: 07/04/2020] [Indexed: 01/08/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance. AIM AND METHODS In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives. RESULTS Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF. CONCLUSION Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.
Collapse
Affiliation(s)
- Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Thamires Batello Freire
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | | | - Tânia Santos de Almeida
- CBIOS-Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS-Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | | | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| |
Collapse
|