An herbal cream reduces erythema of sensitive skin

Targeted screening of multiple anti-inflammatory components from Chrysanthemi indici Flos by ligand fishing with affinity UF-LC/MS

Chrysanthemi indic Flos (CIF) has been commonly consumed for the treatment of inflammation and related skin diseases. However, the potential bioactive components responsible for its anti-inflammatory and sensitive skin (SS) improvement activities, and the correlated mechanisms of action still remain unknown. In this work, it was firstly found that the CIF extract (CIFE) displayed arrestive free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and ABTS radicals, with no significant difference with positive control Trolox (p > 0.05). Then, compared to the negative group, CIFE markedly decreased the productions of the pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, PEG2, TNF-α, IFN-γ, NO) in LPS induced RAW264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner (p < 0.01). Besides, CIFE strongly inhibited the COX-2 and hyaluronidase (HAase) with the IC50 values of 1.06 ± 0.01 μg/mL and 12.22 ± 0.39 μg/mL, indicating higher inhibitory effect than positive control of aspirin of 6.33 ± 0.05 μg/mL (p < 0.01), and comparable inhibitory effect with indometacin of 0.60 ± 0.03 μg/mL, and ascorbic acid of 11.03 ± 0.41 μg/mL (p > 0.05), respectively. Furthermore, kinetic assays with Lineweaver-Burk plot (Michaelis Menten equation) suggested that CIFE reversibly inhibited the COX-2 and HAase, with a mixed characteristics of competitive and non-competitive inhibition. Thereafter, multi-target affinity ultrafiltration liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (UF-LC/MS) method was employed to fast fish out the potential COX-2 and HAase in CIFE. Herein, 13 components showed various affinity binding degrees to the COX-2 and HAase, while those components with relative binding affinity (RBA) value higher than 3.0, such as linarin and chlorogenic acid isomers, were deemed to be the most bioactive components for the anti-inflammatory and SS improvement activities of CIFE. Finally, the interaction mechanism, including binding energy, inhibition constant, docking sites, and the key amino acids involved in hydrogen bonds between the potential ligands and COX-2/HAase were simulated and confirmed with the molecule docking analysis. In summary, this study showcased the prominent anti-inflammatory and SS improvement activities of CIF, which would provide further insights on this functional medicinal plant to be a natural anti-SS remedy.

Clinical study of a spray containing birch juice for repairing sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is described as an unpleasant sensory response to a stimulus that should not cause a sensation. Sensitive skin affects an increasing proportion of the population. Sixty-seven participants who tested positive to lactic acid sting test were recruited and randomized into two groups to observe the clinical efficacy and safety of a new birch juice spray for repairing sensitive skin. One group used test spray A, while the other group used spray B as a control. Both groups were sprayed six times daily for 28 days. Noninvasive testing instruments were used to measure stratum corneum hydration, sebum content, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion and current perception threshold before and after using spray. Facial images were captured by VISIA-CR, and the image analysis program (Image-Pro Plus) was used to analyze these to obtain the redness value of the facial skin. Moreover, lactic acid sting test scores and participants' self-assessments were also performed at baseline, week 2 and week 4. Both sprays A and B significantly decreased the lactic acid sting test score, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and redness, while increasing the stratum corneum hydration. Compared to spray B, spray A increased sensory nerve thresholds at 5 Hz and decreased the transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and lactic acid sting test score. Sprays containing birch juice improved cutaneous biophysical properties in participants with sensitive skin.

The Challenges in Investigating the Pathogenesis of Sensitive Skin by Noninvasive Measurements: A Systematic Review

Sensitive skin (SS) is a common cutaneous condition that seriously affects people's quality of life, but studies of sensitive skin pathogenesis are unclear, the exploration are ongoing, and the biophysical properties of sensitive skin disagree with the study results. In this paper, we summarize the noninvasive biophysical and imaging instrumental methods used for sensitive skin and provide support for the classification of sensitive skin subtypes to prescribe precise treatment. PubMed and Web of Science databases were searched according to PRISMA guidelines for articles from January 1971 to May 2022 that used noninvasive biophysical or imaging methods to monitor adult subjects with sensitive skin. The quality of the included articles was determined based on 22 items of the STrengthening the Reporting of OBservational studies in Epidemiology (STROBE) statement. A total of 55 studies were included, representing 8 biophysical and 5 imaging methods and their applications in treatment efficacy evaluation studies. The biophysical parameter and cutaneous morphological property changes in sensitive skin subjects were observed. The quality of the studies was relatively low, and there was high variability in results between studies. Several parameters have shown tremendous potential in exploring the pathogenesis with different sensitive skin subtypes: type I may be detected with higher transepidermal water loss and lower stratum corneum hydration values, as well as with thinner epidermis with a shallower and more irregular honeycomb structure; Type II and III are more prone to higher blood flow, lower current perception threshold than normal skin. This systematic review identifies key reasons for the lack of uniform trends in noninvasive measurements and recommends the use of effective selection instruments or relevant parameters to explore the pathogenesis of sensitive skin, and to differentiate the subtypes of sensitive skin for achieving the precise treatment.

Study on screening and evaluation methods of cosmetics for people with facial sensitive skin

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study is to screen and evaluate cosmetic products for sensitive skin on the face.

METHODS

Thirty-five subjects with positive lactic acid sting test (LAST) were recruited from the staff of our hospital from November 2019 to February 2020. First, the human skin enclosed patch test of cosmetic gel (abbreviated as gel) was performed, and then the tested products were continuously applied for 4 weeks to complete the long-term efficacy test. Subjects' sensation of application, pruritus, tingling and burning were assessed on a 0 to 9 scale prior to, 14, and 28 days after topical application. Moreover, the transepidermal water loss rate (TEWL), stratum corneum (SC) hydration, melanin index (MI), erythema index (EI) and dendritic cells and inflammatory cell infiltration were noninvasively detected by the tester. LAST were performed before applying, 14 and 28 days after application, and then the test results were compared.

RESULTS

In this study, a total of 34 people participated in the test. The results of human skin enclosed patch test indicated that only 1 case of grade 1 reaction occurred among the tested subjects. The subjects felt good after applying the products, and the gel showed high degree of skin comfortable, no irritation and good tolerability. Subjective safety evaluation illustrated that the scores of pruritus, tingling and burning of the subjects decreased in D14 and D28 patient revisit, showing statistically significant differences (P < .05). When the gel was applied for 4 weeks, TEWL (8.42 ± 1.12) and EI (201.35 ± 13.51) were lower than the results before application (P < .05), and the SC hydration (65.36 ± 2.56) was higher than that before application (P < .05). There was no correlation between the SC hydration and TEWL (R = 0.092, P = .416). The results of skin CT indicated that the number of facial dendritic cells decreased in 17 subjects (accounting for 50%) in D28 patient revisit, and the degree of inflammatory cell infiltration decreased in 27 subjects (accounting for 80%). Compared with the baseline value, the LAST score and total sensory score decreased after application the product for 4 weeks, and the difference was statistically significant (the mean value of P < .05).

CONCLUSION

The subjective feeling of application and efficacy of cosmetics in people with sensitive skin could be successfully evaluated by the comprehensive application of human skin enclosed patch test, long-term trial test, subjective safety evaluation and objective efficacy evaluation. And it provides the basis to judge whether the cosmetic is consistent with the efficacy claim of sensitive skin.

Influence of Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata cold cream on UV-B damaged skin epidermal cells: a novel approach

Ultraviolet radiation-induced sunburns are characterized by pigmented, wrinkled, and dried skin, with rashes and red spots. Chemical sunscreen lotion shows beneficial effects, but it shows the adverse side effect while in continuous usage. Natural substances of plant origin are deemed a possible cause of UV radiation through sunscreen resources. On this basis, we formulated the cold cream from the Caralluma adscendens Var. attenuata (CAVA) plant extract. The phytocompounds were studied by using GC-MS. The antioxidant potential of the plant extract was determined, and the CAVA showed cytotoxicity on A375 skin melanoma cells determined by MTT assay. The FT-IR spectra analysis confirmed the chemical nature of crude and crosslinking between cold creams. The cream was applied topically to rats pre-exposed to UV-B radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days). UV-B exposed without any treatment rats showed increased red spots or wrinkles (5 cm2). In contrast, the cold cream treatment application on irradiated skin has significantly reduced the size of rashes and red spots and the wound was contracted in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, histopathology of the experimental rat skin confirmed that CAVA cream treatment significantly reduced the epidermal thickening, damage in dermis and epidermis layers, and restructured the hair follicles. This study suggests that the cream formulated using CAVA can alleviate the damages caused by the UV-B-irradiation at a high level and safeguard the skin tissues.

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s13205-021-02694-y.

Correlations on Phenolic Screening Related to In Vitro and In Ovo Assessment of Ocimum basilicum L. Hydro-Alcoholic Extracts Used as Skin Active Ingredient

The current study was aimed to evaluate the phenolic composition parameters of two hydro-alcoholic extracts of Ocimum basilicum L. (OB) obtained from the aerial part (without leaves) and leaves, in order to determine their contribution to the antioxidant activity (AOA). Both hydro-alcoholic extracts have proven to be rich in polyphenolic compounds, flavonoids, flavonols and tannins. Therefore, the leaves’ extracts reveal an inhibition percentage of 89%, almost comparable with the standard reference (95%). To complete the toxicological profile, the study also assessed the potential cytotoxicity of basil hydro-alcoholic extracts on immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT), skin human fibroblasts (1BR3), mice epidermis (JB6Cl41-5a) and primary human melanocytes (HEMa) cells, correlated to A375 antitumor in vitro activity. The extracts did not induce significant cytotoxic effect on any of the selected normal cell lines but showed relevant activity on A375 cells. Considering the low values obtained regarding the irritative effects in the chorionallantoic membrane of the egg on blood vessels, we can emphasize that both extracts can be considered as biocompatible ingredients. Regarding the potential activity of hydro-alcoholic extracts on human skin, the decrease of erythema values after the application of extracts was a relevant observation which indicates the anti-inflammatory potential of Ocimum basilicum L.