Physiological characteristics of elite high-altitude climbers

Case Report: Muscle Wasting during Severe Sustained Hypoxia in Two Professional Mountaineers

PURPOSE

Chronic exposure to hypoxia can induce muscle wasting in unaccustomed individuals. Detailed assessment of the effects of hypoxia on muscle tissue adaptation in elite mountaineers has not been performed. This study aims to assess muscle volume after exposure to normobaric hypoxia.

METHODS

Two professional mountaineers (A and B) participated in a 35-d intervention of graded normobaric hypoxia with the aim of 14 d exposure to 8% oxygen corresponding to 7112-m altitude. Volume of the shank, thigh, and hip muscles was assessed by magnetic resonance imaging pre- and postintervention. Dietary intake and physical activity were monitored throughout the study from food images and accelerometry analysis, together with blood analysis and anthropometric measurements.

RESULTS

Hypoxia reduced total leg muscle volume by 3.3% ± 6.0% in A and by 9.4% ± 7.3% in B. A lost 288 g and B 642 g of muscle mass, whereas dietary intake only declined by ~23% in the last intervention week. Arterial oxygen saturation declined from 95% and 86% to 77% and 72% in A and B, respectively. In hypoxia, participants could not maintain their physical activity levels. Notably, muscle loss varied substantially across muscle groups amounting to 5.4% ± 3.0%, 8.3% ± 5.2%, and 4.1% ± 8.6% for hip, thigh, and shank muscles, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that hypoxia and resultant reductions in physical activity and caloric intake lead to substantial loss of muscle mass that was accentuated in proximal muscle as opposed to distal muscles. Surprisingly, thigh muscle wasting during this intervention is comparable with that observed during strict 56-d bed rest.

Differential control of respiratory frequency and tidal volume during exercise

The lack of a testable model explaining how ventilation is regulated in different exercise conditions has been repeatedly acknowledged in the field of exercise physiology. Yet, this issue contrasts with the abundance of insightful findings produced over the last century and calls for the adoption of new integrative perspectives. In this review, we provide a methodological approach supporting the importance of producing a set of evidence by evaluating different studies together-especially those conducted in 'real' exercise conditions-instead of single studies separately. We show how the collective assessment of findings from three domains and three levels of observation support the development of a simple model of ventilatory control which proves to be effective in different exercise protocols, populations and experimental interventions. The main feature of the model is the differential control of respiratory frequency (f_R) and tidal volume (V_T); f_R is primarily modulated by central command (especially during high-intensity exercise) and muscle afferent feedback (especially during moderate exercise) whereas V_T by metabolic inputs. Furthermore, V_T appears to be fine-tuned based on f_R levels to match alveolar ventilation with metabolic requirements in different intensity domains, and even at a breath-by-breath level. This model reconciles the classical neuro-humoral theory with apparently contrasting findings by leveraging on the emerging control properties of the behavioural (i.e. f_R) and metabolic (i.e. V_T) components of minute ventilation. The integrative approach presented is expected to help in the design and interpretation of future studies on the control of f_R and V_T during exercise.

Cognitive fatigue due to exercise under normobaric hypoxia is related to hypoxemia during exercise

We previously found that a 10-min bout of moderate-intensity exercise (50% maximal oxygen uptake) under normobaric and hypoxic conditions (fraction of inspired oxygen [[Formula: see text]] = 0.135) reduced executive performance and neural activity in the left dorsolateral prefrontal cortex (DLPFC). To examine whether this cognitive fatigue is due to a decrease in SpO₂ during exercise, we compared executive performance and related prefrontal activation between two experimental conditions, in which the participants inhaled normobaric hypoxic gas ([Formula: see text]= 0.135) (hypoxic exercise [HE]) or hypoxic gas adjusted so that SpO₂ during exercise remained at the resting level (milder hypoxic exercise [ME]). ME condition showed that reaction time in executive performance decreased (t[13] = 2.228, P < 0.05, d = 0.34, paired t-test) and left DLPFC activity increased (t[13] = -2.376, P < 0.05, d = 0.63, paired t-test) after exercise compared with HE condition. These results showed that the HE-induced reductions in the left DLPFC activity and executive performance were both suppressed in the ME condition, supporting the hypothesis that exercise-induced cognitive fatigue under hypoxic environment is due to hypoxemia during exercise. This may lead to the development of a method of coping with cognitive fatigue due to exercise that causes hypoxemia.

Changes in cardiac function following a speed ascent to the top of Europe at 4808 m

PURPOSE

Both prolonged exercise and acute high-altitude exposure are known to induce cardiac changes. We sought to describe the cardiac responses to speed climbing at high-altitude, including left ventricular (LV) performance assessment using the myocardial work index (MWI), a new index derived from 2D speckle tracking echocardiography (STE).

METHODS

Eleven elite alpinists (9 males, age: 26 ± 4 years) were evaluated before and immediately after a speed ascent of the Mont-Blanc (4808 m) by echocardiography using conventional measurements as well as STE and MWI computation with derivate parameters as global work efficiency (GWE) or global wasted work (GWW).

RESULTS

Athletes performed a long-duration (8 h 58 min ± 60 min) and intense (78 ± 4% of maximal heart rate) ascent under gradual hypoxic conditions (minimal SpO₂ at 4808 m: 71 ± 4%). Hypoxic exercise-induced cardiac fatigue was observed post-ascent with a change in right ventricular (RV) and LV systolic function (RV fractional area change: - 20 ± 23%, p = 0.01; LV global longitudinal strain change: - 8 ± 9%, p = 0.02), as well as LV geometry and RV-LV interaction alterations with emergence of a D-shape septum in 5/11 (46%) participants associated with RV pressure overload (mean pulmonary arterial pressure change: + 55 ± 20%, p < 0.001). Both MWI and GWE were reduced post-ascent (- 21 ± 16%, p = 0.004 and - 4 ± 4%, p = 0.007, respectively). Relative decrease in MWI and GWE were inversely correlated with increase in GWW (r = - 0.86, p = 0.003 and r = -0.97, p < 0.001, respectively).

CONCLUSIONS

Prolonged high-altitude speed climbing in elite climbers is associated with RV and LV function changes with a major interaction alteration. MWI, assessing the myocardial performance, could be a new tool for evaluating LV exercise-induced cardiac fatigue.

Effect of a speed ascent to the top of Europe on cognitive function in elite climbers

PURPOSE

The combined effects of acute hypoxia and exercise on cognition remain to be clarified. We investigated the effect of speed climbing to high altitude on reactivity and inhibitory control in elite climbers.

METHODS

Eleven elite climbers performed a speed ascent of the Mont-Blanc (4810 m) and were evaluated pre- (at 1000 m) and immediately post-ascent (at 3835 m). In both conditions, a Simon task was done at rest (single-task session, ST) and during a low-intensity exercise (dual-task session, DT). Prefrontal cortex (PFC) oxygenation and middle cerebral artery velocity (MCAv) were monitored using near-infrared spectroscopy and transcranial Doppler, respectively, during the cognitive task. Self-perceived mental fatigue and difficulty to perform the cognitive tests were estimated using a visual analog scale. Heart rate and pulse oxygenation (SpO₂) were monitored during the speed ascent.

RESULTS

Elite climbers performed an intense (~ 50% of the time ≥ 80% of maximal heart rate) and prolonged (8h58 ± 6 min) exercise in hypoxia (minimal SpO₂ at 4810 m: 78 ± 4%). Reaction time and accuracy during the Simon task were similar pre- and post-ascent (374 ± 28 ms vs. 385 ± 39 ms and 6 ± 4% vs. 5 ± 4%, respectively; p > 0.05), despite a reported higher mental fatigue and difficulty to perform the Simon task post-ascent (all p < 0.05). The magnitude of the Simon effect was unaltered (p > 0.05), suggesting a preserved cognitive control post-ascent. Pattern of PFC oxygenation and MCAv differed between pre- and post-ascent as well as between ST and DT conditions.

CONCLUSIONS

Cognitive control is not altered in elite climbers after a speed ascent to high-altitude despite substantial cerebral deoxygenation and fatigue perception.

Cardiorespiratory Coordination in Hypercapnic Test Before and After High-Altitude Expedition

Coordination of cardiovascular and respiratory systems enables a wide range of human adaptation and depends upon the functional state of an individual organism. Hypoxia is known to elicit changes in oxygen and carbon dioxide sensitivity, while training alters cardiorespiratory coordination (CRC). The delayed effect of high altitude (HA) acclimatization on CRC in mountaineers remains unknown. The objective of this study was to compare CRC in acute hypercapnia in mountaineers before and after a HA expedition. Nine trained male mountaineers were investigated at sea level before (Pre-HA) and after a 20-day sojourn at altitudes of 4,000–7,000 m (Post-HA) in three states (Baseline, Hypercapnic Rebreathing, and Recovery). A principal component (PC) analysis was performed to evaluate the CRC. The number of mountaineers with one PC increased Post-HA (nine out of nine), compared to Pre-HA (five out of nine) [Chi-square (df = 1) = 5.14, P = 0.023]; the percentage of total variance explained by PC1 increased [Pre-HA median 65.6 (Q1 64.9/Q3 74.9), Post-HA 75.6 (73.3/77.9), P = 0.028]. Post-HA, the loadings of the expired fraction of O2, CO2, and ventilation onto PC1 did not change, and the loading of heart rate increased [Pre-HA 0.64 (0.45/0.68) and Post-HA 0.76 (0.65/0.82), P = 0.038]. During the Recovery, the percentage of total variance explained by PC1 was higher than during the Baseline. Post-HA, there was a high correlation between the Exercise addiction scores and the eigenvalues of PC1 (r = 0.9, P = 0.001). Thus, acute hypercapnic exposure reveals the Post-HA increase in cardiorespiratory coordination, which is highly related to the level of exercise addiction.

Spleen Volume and Contraction During Apnea in Mt. Everest Climbers and Everest Base Camp Trekkers

The human spleen can contract and transiently boost the blood with stored erythrocytes. We measured spleen volume and contraction during apneas in two groups, each containing 12 Caucasian participants (each 3 women): one group planning to summit Mt. Everest (8848 m; "Climbers") and another trekking to Everest Base Camp (5300 m; "Trekkers"). Tests were done in Kathmandu (1370 m) 1-3 days after arrival, before the Climb/Trek. Age, height, weight, vital capacity, resting heart rate, and arterial oxygen saturation were similar between groups (not significant). After 15 minutes of sitting rest, all participants performed a 1-minute apnea and, after 2 minutes of rest, 1 maximal duration apnea was performed. Six of the climbers did a third apnea and hemoglobin concentration (Hb) was measured. Three axial spleen diameters were measured by ultrasonic imaging before and after the apneas for spleen volume calculation. Mean (standard deviation) baseline spleen volume was larger in Climbers [367 (181) mL] than in Trekkers [228 (70) mL; p = 0.022]. Spleen contraction occurred during apneas in both groups, with about twice the magnitude in Climbers. Three apneas in six of the Climbers resulted in a spleen volume reduction from 348 (145) to 202 (91) mL (p = 0.005) and an Hb elevation from 147.9 (13.1) to 153.3 (11.3) g/L (p = 0.024). Maximal apneic duration was longer in Climbers [88 (23) seconds vs. 67 (18) seconds in Trekkers; p = 0.023]. We concluded that a large spleen characterizes Climbers, suggesting that spleen function may be important for high-altitude climbing performance.

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes-A Cross-Sectional Study

In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

Muscle Oxygen Delivery in the Forearm and in the Vastus Lateralis Muscles in Response to Resistance Exercise: A Comparison Between Nepalese Porters and Italian Trekkers

Altitude ascending represents an intriguing experimental model reproducing physiological and pathophysiological conditions sharing hypoxemia as the denominator. The aim of the present study was to investigate fractional oxygen extraction and blood dynamics in response to hypobaric hypoxia and to acute resistance exercises, taking into account several factors including different ethnic origin and muscle groups. As part of the “Kanchenjunga Exploration & Physiology” project, six Italian trekkers and six Nepalese porters took part in a high altitude trek in the Himalayas. The measurements were carried out at low (1,450 m) and high altitude (HA; 4,780 m). Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS)-derived parameters, i.e., Tot-Hb and tissue saturation index (TSI), were gathered at rest and after bouts of 3-min resistive exercise, both in the quadriceps and in the forearm muscles. TSI decreased with altitude, particularly in forearm muscles (from 66.9 to 57.3%), whereas the decrement was less in the quadriceps (from 62.5 to 57.2%); Nepalese porters were characterized by greater values in thigh TSI than Italian trekkers. Tot-Hb was increased after exercise. At altitude, such increase appeared to be higher in the quadriceps. This effect might be a consequence of the long-term adaptive memory due to the frequent exposures to altitude. Although speculative, we suggest a long-term adaptation of the Nepalese porters due to improved oxygenation of muscles frequently undergoing hypoxic exercise. Muscle structure, individual factors, and altitude exposure time should be taken into account to move on the knowledge of oxygen delivery and utilization at altitude.

The interactive effects of acute exercise and hypoxia on cognitive performance: A narrative review

Acute moderate intensity exercise has been shown to improve cognitive performance. In contrast, hypoxia is believed to impair cognitive performance. The detrimental effects of hypoxia on cognitive performance are primarily dependent on the severity and duration of exposure. In this review, we describe how acute exercise under hypoxia alters cognitive performance, and propose that the combined effects of acute exercise and hypoxia on cognitive performance are mainly determined by interaction among exercise intensity and duration, the severity of hypoxia, and duration of exposure to hypoxia. We discuss the physiological mechanism(s) of the interaction and suggest that alterations in neurotransmitter function, cerebral blood flow, and possibly cerebral metabolism are the primary candidates that determine cognitive performance when acute exercise is combined with hypoxia. Furthermore, acclimatization appears to counteract impaired cognitive performance during prolonged exposure to hypoxia although the precise physiological mechanism(s) responsible for this amelioration remain to be elucidated. This review has implications for sporting, occupational, and recreational activities at terrestrial high altitude where cognitive performance is essential. Further studies are required to understand physiological mechanisms that determine cognitive performance when acute exercise is performed in hypoxia.

The human ventilatory response to stress: rate or depth?

Many stressors cause an increase in ventilation in humans. This is predominantly reported as an increase in minute ventilation (V̇E). But, the same V̇E can be achieved by a wide variety of changes in the depth (tidal volume, V_T ) and number of breaths (respiratory frequency, ƒ_R ). This review investigates the impact of stressors including: cold, heat, hypoxia, pain and panic on the contributions of ƒ_R and V_T to V̇E to see if they differ with different stressors. Where possible we also consider the potential mechanisms that underpin the responses identified, and propose mechanisms by which differences in ƒ_R and V_T are mediated. Our aim being to consider if there is an overall differential control of ƒ_R and V_T that applies in a wide range of conditions. We consider moderating factors, including exercise, sex, intensity and duration of stimuli. For the stressors reviewed, as the stress becomes extreme V̇E generally becomes increased more by ƒ_R than V_T . We also present some tentative evidence that the pattern of ƒ_R and V_T could provide some useful diagnostic information for a variety of clinical conditions. In The Physiological Society's year of 'Making Sense of Stress', this review has wide-ranging implications that are not limited to one discipline, but are integrative and relevant for physiology, psychophysiology, neuroscience and pathophysiology.