Anti-inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test

Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Effects of Hamamelis virginiana Bark in Human Keratinocytes

Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is recognized as one of the main triggers of the cutaneous inflammatory response in acne vulgaris, a chronic skin disorder with a multifactorial origin. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana L.) is a plant widely used for skin inflammatory conditions, with some preliminary anti-inflammatory evidence on the skin, but lacking data on acne conditions. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of a glycolic extract from Hamamelis virginiana bark (HVE) versus C. acnes-induced inflammation in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Phytochemical investigations of HVE identified hamamelitannin (HT) and proanthocyanidins as the most abundant compounds (respectively, 0.29% and 0.30% w/w_extract). HVE inhibited C. acnes-induced IL-6 release (IC₅₀: 136.90 μg/mL), by partially impairing NF-κB activation; however, no antibacterial or antibiofilm activities were found. In addition, HVE showed greater anti-inflammatory activity when TNF-α was used as a proinflammatory stimulus (IC₅₀ of 38.93 μg/mL for IL-8 release), partially acting by antioxidant mechanisms, as shown for VEGF inhibition. The effects of HVE are primarily based on the proanthocyanidin content, as HT was found inactive on all the parameters tested. These results suggest further investigations of HVE in other inflammatory-based skin diseases.

Human Metabolites of Hamaforton™ (Hamamelis virginiana L. Extract) Modulates Fibroblast Extracellular Matrix Components in Response to UV-A Irradiation

Hamamelis virginiana L. a rich source of both condensed and hydrolyzable tannins, utilized to treat dermatological disorders. Since no experimental and clinical data is available for its use as oral formulation in skin related disorders, the purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of Hamaforton™ (Hamamelis virginiana extract) metabolites on gene dysregulation induced by ultraviolet A radiation in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. A combination of in vivo and ex vivo experimental designs has been exploited in order to take into account the polyphenol metabolic transformation that occurs in humans. 12 healthy volunteers received either a capsule of Hamaforton™ or a placebo in a randomized, blinded crossover trial. After Hamaforton™ ingestion, the kinetic of appearance of galloyl derivatives was measured in plasma. Then, in the ex vivo experiment, the serum isolated after supplementation was used as a source of Hamaforton™ metabolites to enrich the culture medium of dermal fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet A radiation. Three different gallic acid metabolites (4-O-methyl gallic acid, 4-O-methyl gallic acid sulphate and trimethyl gallic acid glucuronide) were identified in volunteer plasma. While, ultraviolet A irradiation of dermal fibroblasts affected the expression of extracellular matrix genes, the presence of Hamaforton™ metabolites in the culture media did not affect the expression of most of those genes. However, the activation of the expression of 10 different genes involved in repair processes for the maintenance of skin integrity, suggest that the metabolites can play a role in damage recovery. To our knowledge, this is the first study that demonstrates the bioavailability of Hamaforton™ phenolic compounds, and the effects of its metabolites on cultured dermal fibroblast response to ultraviolet A irradiation.

Use of formulations for sensitive skin improves the visible signs of aging, including wrinkle size and elasticity

Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin. Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32-72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted. Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Botanicals With Dermatologic Properties Derived From First Nations Healing: Part 2-Plants and Algae

INTRODUCTION

Plants and algae have played a central role in the treatment of skin conditions in both traditional First Nations healing and in modern dermatology. The objective of this study was to examine the evidence supporting the dermatological use of seaweed, witch hazel, bearberry, and mayapple.

METHODS

Four plants and algae used in traditional First Nations treatments of skin disease were selected based on expert recommendations. Several databases were searched to identify relevant citations without language restrictions.

RESULTS

Seaweed has potential clinical use in the treatment of acne and wrinkles and may be incorporated into biofunctional textiles. Witch hazel is an effective and well-tolerated treatment of inflammation and diaper dermatitis. Bearberry leaves contain arbutin, a skin-lightening agent that is an alternative for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Mayapple contains podophyllotoxin, a treatment for condyloma accuminata, molluscum contagiosum, and recalcitrant palmoplantar warts.

DISCUSSION

Common plants and algae are replete with bioactive agents that may have beneficial effects on the skin. Further research will open the door to new and innovative products in the future. Limitations of this study include that the scope of our study is limited to 4 plants and algae, a small sample of the breadth of plants used by First Nations for dermatological treatments.

Evaluation of a topical treatment for the relief of sensitive skin

Background

Approximately, 50% of the population claim to have sensitive skin, which has created an important challenge for dermatologists and the cosmetic industry. This study evaluates the properties of QV Face Rescue Gel (Rescue Gel) that contains a combination of moisturizing and anti-irritant ingredients, and which is used to relieve the symptoms of sensitive facial skin.

Methods

The ability of Rescue Gel to induce collagen types I and III in cultured neonatal human foreskin fibroblasts compared to transforming growth factor beta 1, a known potent inducer of collagen types I and III, was measured using immunofluorescence staining. Furthermore, healthy volunteers were recruited to measure the potential for Rescue Gel to reduce erythema induced by solar-simulated ultraviolet radiation on the skin compared to 0.5% hydrocortisone cream (positive control) as well as it’s ability to decrease transepidermal water loss compared to baseline levels. In addition, the formulation was tested for its potential to be 1) nonstinging using a facial sting/discomfort assay performed on volunteers who reacted positively to lactic acid, 2) nonirritating as determined by repeat insult patch tests, and 3) noncomedogenic.

Results

Rescue Gel significantly induced collagen types I and III in cultured human foreskin fibroblasts similarly to transforming growth factor beta 1. In volunteers, Rescue Gel was shown to significantly reduce erythema induced by solar-simulated ultraviolet radiation similarly to 0.5% hydrocortisone, and to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss compared to baseline levels. Further, the formulation was found to be nonstinging, nonirritating, and noncomedogenic. No adverse events were observed.

Conclusion

In this study, Rescue Gel has been shown to exhibit properties that make it effective for use on sensitive or irritated facial skin, without exacerbation of the symptoms associated with sensitive skin.

[Antiinflammatory potential of seven plant extracts in the ultraviolet erythema test. A randomized, placebo-controlled study]

BACKGROUND

Phytotherapeutics are widely used in medicine. The aim of this study was the evaluation of the antiinflammatory potential of seven medical plant extracts using the ultraviolet- (UV)-erythema test.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Randomized, placebo-controlled study on 40 healthy subjects. Test areas on the upper back were irradiated with the 1.5 fold UV-B minimal erythema dose (MED). Formulations of Aloe vera, Chamomilla recutita, Hamamelis virginiana, Melissa officinalis, Mentha arvensis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Coriandrum sativum as well as 1% hydrocortisone acetate and 0.1% betamethasone valerate as positive controls and unguentum leniens as vehicle control were applied under occlusion on the irradiated areas and on non-irradiated area on the contralateral side. Photometric assessment of the erythema was performed before the application of the substances (t0), at 24 h (t1) and at 48 h (t2).

RESULTS

Aloe vera, Chamomilla recutita, Melissa officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia and Coriandrum sativum showed an antiinflammatory effect compared to UV-control and unguentum leniens. However, the results were only statistically significant for Aloe vera. All tested plant extracts were well tolerated.

CONCLUSION

Aloe vera possesses an antiinflammatory effect on UV-induced erythemas.

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) versus solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) for topical delivery of meloxicam

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to develop nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) as well as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) and evaluate their potential in the topical delivery of meloxicam (MLX).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The effect of various compositional variations on their physicochemical properties was investigated. Furthermore, MLX-loaded lipid nanoparticles-based hydrogels were formulated and the gels were evaluated as vehicles for topical application.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The results showed that NLC and SLN dispersions had spherical shapes with an average size between 215 and 430 nm. High entrapment efficiency was obtained ranging from 61.94 to 90.38% with negatively charged zeta potential in the range of -19.1 to -25.7 mV. The release profiles of all formulations exhibited sustained release characteristics over 48 h and the release rates increased as the amount of liquid lipid in lipid core increased. Finally, Precirol NLC with 50% Miglyol® 812 and its corresponding SLN were incorporated in hydrogels. The gels showed adequate pH, non-Newtonian flow with shear-thinning behavior and controlled release profiles. The biological evaluation revealed that MLX-loaded NLC gel showed more pronounced effect compared to MLX-loaded SLN gel.

CONCLUSION

It can be concluded that lipid nanoparticles represent promising particulate carriers for topical application.

Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging

Skin aging involves degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) in both the epidermal and dermal layers, it leaves visible signs on the surface of skin and the physical properties of the skin are modified. Chronological aging is due to passage of time, whereas premature aging occurred due to some environmental factors on skin produces visible signs such as irregular dryness, dark/light pigmentation, sallowness, severe atrophy, telangiectases, premalignant lesions, laxity, leathery appearance and deep wrinkling. There are several synthetic skincare cosmetics existing in the market to treat premature aging and the most common adverse reactions of those include allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions. Recent trends in anti-aging research projected the use of natural products derived from ancient era after scientific validation. Ample varieties of phytomolecules such as aloin, ginsenoside, curcumin, epicatechin, asiaticoside, ziyuglycoside I, magnolol, gallic acid, hydroxychavicol, hydroxycinnamic acids, hydroxybenzoic acids, etc. scavenges free radicals from skin cells, prevent trans-epidermal water loss, include a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher contribute to protect skin from wrinkles, leading to glowing and healthy younger skin. Present era of treating aging skin has become technologically more invasive; but herbal products including botanicals are still relevant and combining them with molecular techniques outlined throughout this review will help to maximize the results and maintain the desired anti-skin aging benefits.

Which plant for which skin disease? Part 2: Dermatophytes, chronic venous insufficiency, photoprotection, actinic keratoses, vitiligo, hair loss, cosmetic indications

This paper continues our review of scientifically evaluated plant extracts in dermatology. After plants effective against dermatophytes, botanicals with anti-edema effects in chronic venous insufficiency are discussed. There is good evidence from randomized clinical studies that plant extracts from grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), sea pine (Pinus maritima) and butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus) can reduce edema in chronic venous insufficiency. Plant extracts from witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), green tea (Camellia sinensis), the fern Polypodium leucotomos and others contain antioxidant polyphenolic compounds that may protect the skin from sunburn and photoaging when administered topically or systemically. Extracts from the garden spurge (Euphorbia peplus) and from birch bark (Betula alba) have been shown to be effective in the treatment of actinic keratoses in phase II studies. Some plant extracts have also been investigated in the treatment of vitiligo, various forms of hair loss and pigmentation disorders, and in aesthetic dermatology.

Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review

Botanical extracts and single compounds are increasingly used in cosmetics but also in over-the-counter drugs and food supplements. The focus of the present review is on controlled clinical trials with botanicals in the treatment of acne, inflammatory skin diseases, skin infections, UV-induced skin damage, skin cancer, alopecia, vitiligo, and wounds. Studies with botanical cosmetics and drugs are discussed, as well as studies with botanical food supplements. Experimental research on botanicals was considered to a limited extent when it seemed promising for clinical use in the near future. In acne therapy, Mahonia, tea tree oil, and Saccharomyces may have the potential to become standard treatments. Mahonia, Hypericum, Glycyrrhiza and some traditional Chinese medicines appear promising for atopic dermatitis. Some plant-derived substances like dithranol and methoxsalen (8-methoxypsoralen) [in combination with UVA] are already accepted as standard treatments in psoriasis; Mahonia and Capsicum (capsaicin) are the next candidates suggested by present evidence. Oral administration and topical application of antioxidant plant extracts (green and black tea, carotenoids, coffee, and many flavonoids from fruits and vegetables) can protect skin from UV-induced erythema, early aging, and irradiation-induced cancer. Hair loss and vitiligo are also traditional fields of application for botanicals. According to the number and quality of clinical trials with botanicals, the best evidence exists for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, i.e. atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, many more controlled clinical studies are needed to determine the efficacy and risks of plant-derived products in dermatology. Safety aspects, especially related to sensitization and photodermatitis, have to be taken into account. Therefore, clinicians should not only be informed of the beneficial effects but also the specific adverse effects of botanicals used for dermatologic disorders and cosmetic purposes.

Anti-inflammatory potential of a lipolotion containing coriander oil in the ultraviolet erythema test

SUMMARY BACKGROUND

Coriander oil is used as an antimicrobial agent and as a natural fragrance. The present study investigated the anti-inflammatory potency of coriander oil in the ultraviolet (UV) erythema test in vivo.

METHODS

40 volunteers were enrolled in this monocentric,randomized,placebo-controlled double-blind study.Test areas on the back were irradiated with the 1.5 fold minimal erythema dose UV-B. Subsequently, the test areas were treated under occlusion for 47 hours with a lipolotion containing 0.5% or 1.0% essential coriander oil. Hydrocortisone (1.0%) and betamethasone valerate (0.1%) in the vehicle served as positive controls.The vehicle was used as place-bo.The effect of the test substances on the UV-induced erythema was measured photometrically after 48 hours.Additionally,the skin tolerance of the test preparations was assessed on non-irradiated skin.

RESULTS

Compared to placebo, the lipolotion with 0.5% coriander oil significantly reduced the UV-induced erythema, but it was not as effective as hydrocortisone. The skin tolerance of both coriander oil concentrations was excellent.

CONCLUSIONS

The lipolotion containing coriander oil displayed a mild antiinflammatory effect in this study. It could be useful in the concomitant treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

Hamamelis in children with skin disorders and skin injuries: results of an observational study

Published clinical experience with hamamelis ointment in children is limited. This observational study included children (age 27 days to 11 years) with minor skin injuries, diaper dermatitis, or localized inflammation of skin. The children received either hamamelis ointment or dexpanthenol ointment in groups at a 3-to-1 ratio. Baseline and post-treatment assessments compared the total scores of predefined signs and symptoms for each condition. Physicians and parents were asked for a global assessment of efficacy and tolerability of the respective treatments at the end of therapy. A total of 309 children were treated (hamamelis n = 231; dexpanthenol n = 78). The treatment groups were comparable regarding demographic data and baseline total scores of signs and symptoms. In all three diagnosis groups, the efficacy of hamamelis and dexpanthenol was shown by a statistically significant and clinically relevant decrease of total scores from baseline to endpoint (p < 0.0001 for each group, Wilcoxon signed-rank test). Overall, the results for the hamamelis and the dexpanthenol groups were similar. Descriptive advantages for the hamamelis group were observed for a number of parameters and diagnosis groups. Both treatments were well tolerated. Ratings of the tolerability of hamamelis were "excellent" or "good" in 99.1% (physicians) and 98.2% (parents) of cases, respectively. The corresponding ratings for dexpanthenol were 97.4 and 92.3%. In conclusion, hamamelis ointment is an effective and safe treatment for certain skin disorders in children up to the age of 11 years. The observed effects are similar to dexpanthenol.

Anti-Inflammatory and Skin-Hydrating Properties of a Dietary Supplement and Topical Formulations Containing Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins

BACKGROUND

Anti-inflammatory and skin hydration properties of a dietary supplement and 2 topical formulations (Anthogenol) with oligomeric proanthocyanidins were investigated.

METHODS

Forty-two subjects were randomized into 2 groups: one taking the dietary supplement (100 mg/day) and the other without supplement. After 4 weeks, erythema was induced using UV radiation followed by treatment with topical cream or lotion. Erythema was measured for up to 72 h after irradiation. Skin hydration after 1 and 2 weeks of application of the cream and lotion was also measured in separate test fields.

RESULTS

Both topical formulations led to a significant suppression of erythema formation and the dietary supplement led to an additional slightly stronger suppression. Thus 72 h after UV exposure and compared to the control fields of patients that had not taken a dietary supplement, erythema was slightly (13.2%) lower in the subjects that had taken a dietary supplement. The cream resulted in a maximal reduction of erythema of 45.9% (p = 0.0015), while the lotion resulted in a maximal reduction of 53.1% (p = 0.0002). Both topical formulations also increased skin hydration (by nearly 20%; p < 0.002 for all combinations of dietary supplementation and topical treatment) and the hydration was higher in the group taking the dietary supplement.

CONCLUSION

The regular use of Anthogenol products may help to protect from free-radical-mediated skin inflammation and to increase skin hydration.

In Vitro Antioxidant and In Vivo Photoprotective Effects of an Association of Bioflavonoids with Liposoluble Vitamins

A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products.

The UV Erythema Test as a Model to Investigate the Anti-Inflammatory Potency of Topical Preparations – Reevaluation and Optimization of the Method

BACKGROUND

The ultraviolet (UV) erythema test is one of the most frequently used methods to investigate the anti-inflammatory potency of topical dermatological preparations in vivo.

METHODS

The following questions were addressed in four separate studies with healthy persons (skin types 2 and 3): (1) the optimal localization was determined by comparing light scales on the back, buttocks and volar forearms; (2) the optimal UV-B dose was determined by comparing the 1-fold, 1.5-fold and 2-fold minimal erythema doses (MEDs); (3) hydrocortisone and prednicarbate were evaluated as positive controls, and a sample size calculation was performed, and (4) betamethasone valerate and pimecrolimus were tested as further positive controls in the optimized study model.

RESULTS

The back proved to be the best localization for the UV erythema test. It showed a good correlation between the light scale and the test areas. The 1.5-fold MED was the best irradiation dose. In contrast to prednicarbate and betamethasone valerate, hydrocortisone was a rather weak positive control. However, when the sample size was > or = 40 subjects, significant results were also obtained with hydrocortisone. Pimecrolimus was not effective in the UV erythema test.

CONCLUSIONS

The UV erythema test should be performed on the back with at least 40 subjects using the 1.5-fold MED. It may be useful to include a potent corticosteroid, such as prednicarbate or betamethasone valerate, in addition to hydrocortisone. The UV erythema test seems to be suitable only for substances with corticosteroid-like effects, since in this test model the calcineurin inhibitor pimecrolimus was not effective.