Oxidative targets in the stratum corneum. A new basis for antioxidative strategies

Interaction between the microbiota and the skin barrier in aging skin: a comprehensive review

The interplay between the microbes and the skin barrier holds pivotal significance in skin health and aging. The skin and gut, both of which are critical immune and neuroendocrine system, harbor microbes that are kept in balance. Microbial shifts are seen with aging and may accelerate age-related skin changes. This comprehensive review investigates the intricate connection between microbe dynamics, skin barrier, and the aging process. The gut microbe plays essential roles in the human body, safeguarding the host, modulating metabolism, and shaping immunity. Aging can perturb the gut microbiome which in turn accentuates inflammaging by further promoting senescent cell accumulation and compromising the host's immune response. Skin microbiota diligently upholds the epidermal barrier, adeptly fending off pathogens. The aging skin encompasses alterations in the stratum corneum structure and lipid content, which negatively impact the skin's barrier function with decreased moisture retention and increased vulnerability to infection. Efficacious restoration of the skin barrier and dysbiosis with strategic integration of acidic cleansers, emollients with optimal lipid composition, antioxidants, and judicious photoprotection may be a proactive approach to aging. Furthermore, modulation of the gut-skin axis through probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics emerges as a promising avenue to enhance skin health as studies have substantiated their efficacy in enhancing hydration, reducing wrinkles, and fortifying barrier integrity. In summary, the intricate interplay between microbes and skin barrier function is intrinsically woven into the tapestry of aging. Sound understanding of these interactions, coupled with strategic interventions aimed at recalibrating the microbiota and barrier equilibrium, holds the potential to ameliorate skin aging. Further in-depth studies are necessary to better understand skin-aging and develop targeted strategies for successful aging.

Mitochondrial dynamics and metabolism across skin cells: implications for skin homeostasis and aging

Aging of human skin is a complex process leading to a decline in homeostasis and regenerative potential of this tissue. Mitochondria are important cell organelles that have a crucial role in several cellular mechanisms such as energy production and free radical maintenance. However, mitochondrial metabolism as well as processes of mitochondrial dynamics, biogenesis, and degradation varies considerably among the different types of cells that populate the skin. Disturbed mitochondrial function is known to promote aging and inflammation of the skin, leading to impairment of physiological skin function and the onset of skin pathologies. In this review, we discuss the essential role of mitochondria in different skin cell types and how impairment of mitochondrial morphology, physiology, and metabolism in each of these cellular compartments of the skin contributes to the process of skin aging.

Open-label, single-arm, single-center clinical study on the effectiveness and safety of a moisturizer containing tocotrienol-rich composition in children with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Little is known about antioxidant efficacy of topical vitamin E on atopic dermatitis (AD) due to lack of controlled clinical studies.

AIM

The study evaluates the effectiveness and safety of a topical moisturizer containing tocotrienol-rich composition over 12 weeks on patients aged between 1 month and 12 years with mild to moderate AD.

METHODS

We conducted a 12 weeks, prospective, open-label clinical study on the effect of tocotrienol as an adjunct to conventional treatment. This study was approved by the Ethics Committee for Research Involving Human Subject. JKEUPM-2019-274 (NMMR-19-1588-49234).

RESULTS

Thirty AD patients with a mean age of 2.77 ± 3.05 were enrolled in the study. At week-12, significant reduction of investigator global assessment (63.4%), Patient-Oriented Scoring Atopic Dermatitis Index (PO-SCORAD) (65%), and SCORAD (52.3%) was noted (p < 0.05). There was also a significant decreased in pruritus intensity (46%, p < 0.05). Similarly at week-12, Infant's Dermatitis Quality of Life Index and Children's Dermatology Life Quality Index were found to improve significantly compared to baseline (p < 0.05). Instrumental assessment revealed improvement in TEWL and erythema index, 49.7% and 17.4%, respectively. No adverse reaction was observed. 95% of patients were satisfied with the moisturizer and 90% perceived it to be better than the one in the market. There was a 55.07% reduction in the use of hydrocortisone 1% cream toward the end of the study (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The results suggested that tocotrienol-rich moisturizer is safe and effective in the management of AD in young children.

Dietary components and the risk of non-melanoma skin cancer: A systematic review of epidemiological studies

Non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) is the most common cancer among white-skinned people. The main environmental risk factor for all types of skin cancer is ultraviolet (UV) exposure to the sun. However, significant modifiable risk factors, such as diet, have been studied about NMSC risk. Several original studies have been conducted on the link between various dietary components and the risk of NMSC in the past decade, but have not been systematically reviewed. This review focuses on the potential impact of dietary components in the prevention of NMSC and evaluates the findings of epidemiologic evidence for dietary factors. We conducted a systematic search of three databases, including Scopus, ISI Web of Science, and PubMed, to identify relevant epidemiological studies published between 2000 and July 6, 2021. Finally, forty-three articles were included. Because of the inherent limitations of epidemiological studies, no definitive conclusions can be drawn; however, the links between folate, citrus, caffeine, and alcohol with BCC are notable; thus, high dietary folate intake, as well as citrus and alcohol consumption, are associated with an increased risk of basal cell carcinoma (BCC), whereas caffeine is associated with a lower risk. More research is required to reach a definitive conclusion.

Ceramides in Skin Health and Disease: An Update

Ceramides are a class of sphingolipid that is the backbone structure for all sphingolipids, such as glycosphingolipids and phosphosphingolipids. While being a minor constituent of cellular membranes, ceramides are the major lipid component (along with cholesterol, free fatty acid, and other minor components) of the intercellular spaces of stratum corneum that forms the epidermal permeability barrier. These stratum corneum ceramides consist of unique heterogenous molecular species that have only been identified in terrestrial mammals. Alterations of ceramide molecular profiles are characterized in skin diseases associated with compromised permeability barrier functions, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and xerosis. In addition, hereditary abnormalities of some ichthyoses are associated with an epidermal unique ceramide species, omega-O-acylceramide. Ceramides also serve as lipid modulators to regulate cellular functions, including cell cycle arrest, differentiation, and apoptosis, and it has been demonstrated that changes in ceramide metabolism also cause certain diseases. In addition, ceramide metabolites, sphingoid bases, sphingoid base-1-phosphate and ceramide-1-phosphate are also lipid mediators that regulate cellular functions. In this review article, we describe diverse physiological and pathological roles of ceramides and their metabolites in epidermal permeability barrier function, epidermal cell proliferation and differentiation, immunity, and cutaneous diseases. Finally, we summarize the utilization of ceramides as therapy to treat cutaneous disease.

Scalp application of antioxidants improves scalp condition and reduces hair shedding in a 24-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial

OBJECTIVE

Increasing hair fullness is a global unmet need for many men and women. An approach to the problem is to decrease hair fall or shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation and barrier damage to increase hair retention. This study evaluated a combination of functional antioxidants and barrier-enhancing cosmetic ingredients to improve scalp condition thereby enabling stronger hair anchorage and longer retention.

METHODS

Male and female subjects with normal scalp condition and self-perceived hair thinning participated in a 24-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study assessing either a regimen of treatment shampoo and leave-on treatment containing functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents or an identical placebo chassis shampoo control. The functional ingredients were piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, zinc carbonate, niacinamide, panthenol and caffeine. At baseline and after 8, 16 and 24 weeks of product use, several measurements were taken: hair shedding, total hair count (by phototrichogram), hair samples, TEWL and evaluation of biomarkers of scalp and hair conditions. Subjects also completed self-assessment questionnaires.

RESULTS

Statistically significant effects for functional ingredient-containing treatment regimen versus a placebo control shampoo formulation were observed for reduced hair shedding, increased total hair count, reduced TEWL and improvement in scalp biomarker values. Subjects also noticed these improvements assessed via self-assessment questionnaires.

CONCLUSIONS

These results establish that the use of functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents to further improve scalp condition can enable a reduction in hair shedding and thus an increase in perceived hair fullness. The underlying improvements in scalp condition suggest the hair benefits were achieved as a result of improved scalp skin barrier and scalp condition leading to a viable preventative approach for hair thinning.

Scalp application of the antioxidant piroctone olamine reduces hair shedding in an 8-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study

OBJECTIVE

Increasing scalp hair fullness is a global unmet consumer need. An approach to decrease hair shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation via a combination of antioxidant and barrier-enhancing technologies has been previously demonstrated. The purpose of this study was to test the effectiveness of the individual antioxidant piroctone olamine in two different product forms (shampoo or leave-on product) for activity to improve hair retention.

METHODS

Female subjects with self-perceived hair thinning participated in an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study to evaluate either a piroctone olamine (PO) containing shampoo or a PO containing leave on treatment, each relative to their corresponding placebo formulation Too many periods. Results for phototrichograms, TEWL, and biomarker analysis of scalp condition for the shampoo treatments are discussed. Phototrichogram results are shared for the assessment of the leave on treatment.

RESULTS

Statistically significant increases in hair amount were observed by phototrichogram after use of both PO-containing products versus placebo formulations. The PO shampoo treatment also significantly decreased oxidative stress on the hair and scalp, and improved scalp condition as assessed by TEWL and scalp biomarker values.

CONCLUSION

These results illustrate the effectiveness of a cosmetic antioxidant to improve scalp condition thereby improving hair retention. The observed improvements in scalp condition are consistent with previous reports with other antioxidant technologies and suggest that the hair retention effect was achieved by preventing oxidative damage to the scalp.

The molecular and physiological consequences of cold plasma treatment in murine skin and its barrier function

Cold plasma technology is an emerging tool facilitating the spatially controlled delivery of a multitude of reactive species (ROS) to the skin. While the therapeutic efficacy of plasma treatment has been observed in several types of diseases, the fundamental consequences of plasma-derived ROS on skin physiology remain unknown. We aimed to bridge this gap since the epidermal skin barrier and perfusion plays a vital role in health and disease by maintaining homeostasis and protecting from environmental damage. The intact skin of SKH1 mice was plasma-treated in vivo. Gene and protein expression was analyzed utilizing transcriptomics, qPCR, and Western blot. Immunofluorescence aided the analysis of percutaneous skin penetration of curcumin. Tissue oxygenation, perfusion, hemoglobin, and water index was investigated using hyperspectral imaging. Reversed-phase liquid-chromatography/mass spectrometry was performed for the identification of changes in the lipid composition and oxidation. Transcriptomic analysis of plasma-treated skin revealed modulation of genes involved in regulating the junctional network (tight, adherence, and gap junctions), which was confirmed using qPCR, Western blot, and immunofluorescence imaging. Plasma treatment increased the disaggregation of cells in the stratum corneum (SC) concomitant with increased tissue oxygenation, gap junctional intercellular communication, and penetration of the model drug curcumin into the SC preceded by altered oxidation of skin lipids and their composition in vivo. In summary, plasma-derived ROS modify the junctional network, which promoted tissue oxygenation, oxidation of SC-lipids, and restricted penetration of the model drug curcumin, implicating that plasma may provide a novel and sensitive tool of skin barrier regulation.

In situ antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product: A randomized controlled clinical study

Ultraviolet light enhances the generation of reactive oxygen species that are responsible for skin photoageing. The aim of this randomized, vehicle- and active-controlled double-blind, intra-individual monocentric study was to evaluate in situ the antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product in photoaged skin. Twenty healthy volunteers had defined skin areas randomized to receive a topical product containing 3 antioxidants (pre-tocopheryl® , retinaldehyde and glycylglycine ole-amide), its vehicle and a positive antioxidant control cream. The products were applied daily for 30-day period. The skin areas were exposed to a controlled dose of UVA rays, and the skin oxidative status was evaluated 4 and 24 hours post-UVA exposure at D0 (basal value) and after 15 and 30 days of product application. Skin layers were collected by stripping, and antioxidant capacity was measured using the ferric reducing ability of a plasma assay. Lipid peroxidation (LPO) was assessed using the malonyldialdehyde test. The tested product significantly improved the skin antioxidant capacity after 15 and 30 days and significantly decreased the basal level of the skin LPO. The skin LPO level significantly decreased 4 and 24 hours after UVA exposure at 15 and 30 days. These findings were comparable to positive control treated sites and were significantly different from the vehicle and untreated sites. This minimally invasive methodology enabled a quantitative evaluation of potent antioxidant activity in situ in the stratum corneum reflecting real-life skin conditions and confirming the benefits of the topical application of a product containing 3 antioxidants in the prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage.

Signaling Pathways, Chemical and Biological Modulators of Nucleotide Excision Repair: The Faithful Shield against UV Genotoxicity

The continuous exposure of the human body's cells to radiation and genotoxic stresses leads to the accumulation of DNA lesions. Fortunately, our body has several effective repair mechanisms, among which is nucleotide excision repair (NER), to counteract these lesions. NER includes both global genome repair (GG-NER) and transcription-coupled repair (TC-NER). Deficiencies in the NER pathway underlie the development of several DNA repair diseases, such as xeroderma pigmentosum (XP), Cockayne syndrome (CS), and trichothiodystrophy (TTD). Deficiencies in GG-NER and TC-NER render individuals to become prone to cancer and neurological disorders, respectively. Therefore, NER regulation is of interest in fine-tuning these risks. Distinct signaling cascades including the NFE2L2 (NRF2), AHR, PI3K/AKT1, MAPK, and CSNK2A1 pathways can modulate NER function. In addition, several chemical and biological compounds have proven success in regulating NER's activity. These modulators, particularly the positive ones, could therefore provide potential treatments for genetic DNA repair-based diseases. Negative modulators, nonetheless, can help sensitize cells to killing by genotoxic chemicals. In this review, we will summarize and discuss the major upstream signaling pathways and molecules that could modulate the NER's activity.

Aging of the skin barrier

The skin barrier is mainly present in the stratum corneum (SC), composed of corneocytes surrounded by intercellular lipid lamellae, and attached by corneodesmosome. The tight junction attached to the lateral walls of keratinocytes in the upper part of the stratum granulosum is also included in the skin barrier. During aging, the following structures and functions of the skin barrier are changed or disturbed: (1) skin barrier structure, (2) permeability barrier function, (3) epidermal calcium gradient, (4) epidermal lipid synthesis and SC lipid processing, (5) cytokine production and response after insults, (6) SC acidity, (7) SC hydration, and (8) antimicrobial barrier. Patients with diabetes also show changes in the skin barrier similar to those in aged skin, and the characteristics of the skin barrier are very similar. Understanding the pathogenic mechanisms of the skin barrier in aging will permit us to develop therapeutic strategies for aged or diabetic skin.

Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study

Confocal Raman microscopy is a novel optical method for studies of pro-drug and drug delivery. This method is a promising technique that enables non-destructive measurement of the permeation profile through skin layers. Peaks of compounds are usually normalised to skin peaks (amino-acid and amide I) for semi-quantitative evaluation. The present study seeks to optimise a methodology for complete quantitative measurement of the amount of an active compound at different depths. Caffeine was used as a tracer to evaluate compound's skin penetration using confocal Raman microscopy. A semi-quantitative depth profile of caffeine was obtained with normalisation of the Raman intensities. These ratios of Raman intensities were correlated with the caffeine concentration using an external calibration curve. The calibration curve was carried out with porcine skin incubated in different concentrations of caffeine; afterwards, each skin sample was analysed by confocal Raman microscopy and HPLC to determine the relation between the Raman signal intensity and the caffeine concentration per skin mass and to create a depth profile. These correlation curves allow the full quantification of the caffeine in skin from Raman intensity ratios at different depths.

Mechanisms of Phytonutrient Modulation of Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and Inflammation Related to Cancer

The link between chronic inflammation and cancer involves cytokines and mediators of inflammatory pathways. Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), a key enzyme in fatty acid metabolism, is upregulated during both inflammation and cancer. COX-2 is induced by pro-inflammatory cytokines at the site of inflammation and enhanced COX-2-induced synthesis of prostaglandins stimulates cancer cell proliferation, promotes angiogenesis, inhibits apoptosis, and increases metastatic potential. As a result, COX-2 inhibitors are a subject of intense research interest toward potential clinical applications. Epidemiological studies highlight the potential benefits of diets rich in phytonutrients for cancer prevention. Plants contain numerous phytonutrient secondary metabolites shown to modulate COX-2. Studies have shown that these metabolites, some of which are used in traditional medicine, can reduce inflammation and carcinogenesis. This review describes the molecular mechanisms by which phytonutrients modulate inflammation, including studies of carotenoids, phenolic compounds, and fatty acids targeting various inflammation-related molecules and pathways associated with cancer. Examples of pathways include those of COX-2, mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase kinase, mitogen-activated protein kinase, pro-inflammatory cytokines, and transcription factors like nuclear factor kappa B. Such phytonutrient modulation of COX-2 and inflammation continue to be explored for applications in the prevention and treatment of cancer.

Antifungal and antioxidant activities of Coleonema album and C. pulchellum against skin diseases

CONTEXT

Coleonema album (Thunb) Bart. & H. L. Wendl (Rutaceae) has been used in the formulation of skincare products, and the Khoisan people rub it on their skin to add luster. Coleonema pulchellum I. Williams has received less attention in the South African traditional medicine.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigates the antifungal and antioxidant activities of C. album and C. pulchellum essential oil (EO) and leaf extracts; and analyzes the chemical components of their EOs.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Antifungal activity of leaf extracts was determined using the microdilution method with griseofulvin and ketoconazole as controls. Antifungal capacity of EO was investigated using the 'Volatile release plate method'. Trichophyton rubrum (ATCC 28188) and T. mentagrophytes (ATCC 9533) mycelia (0.3 cm diameter) were placed on fresh yeast malt agar in Petri dishes with filter paper (impregnated with 20 μL of EO) on the lid for direct exposure to EO volatiles while plates without EO were used as controls. The incubation time was seven days. Antioxidant activities of the leaf extracts were determined.

RESULTS

Methanol leaf extract of C. pulchellum inhibited the growth of three fungi tested with MIC values of 195, 391 and 49 μg/mL for Trichophyton rubrum, Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Microsporum gypseum, respectively. Terpenes formed the major components of the EO. The EO from both plants inhibited the growth of T. rubrum in vitro.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

This study revealed the therapeutic value of C. pulchellum. Coleonema album and C. pulchellum should be considered as potential plants for skin ointment from natural origin.

Gold Nanoprobe-Enabled Three-Dimensional Ozone Imaging by Optical Coherence Tomography

Ozone (O₃) would be harmful to human skin for its strong oxidizing property, especially when stratum corneum or corneal epithelium is wounded. Imaging the penetration and distribution of ozone at depth is beneficial for studying the influence of ozone on skin or eyes. Here, we introduced a facile method for three-dimensional (3D) imaging of the penetration of O₃ into the anterior chamber of an isolated crucian carp eye by using optical coherence tomography (OCT) combined with gold triangular nanoprisms (GTNPs) as the contrast agent and molecular probe. We illustrated the specific response of GTNPs to ozone and demonstrated that GTNPs can function as an efficient nanoprobe for sensing O₃. The stabilities of GTNPs in different biologic solutions, as well as the signal intensity of GTNPs on an OCT imaging system, were investigated. Visualization of 3D penetration and distribution of O₃ in the biologic tissue was proved for the first time. The quantitative analysis of O₃ diffusion in the anterior chamber of the fish eye revealed a penetration depth of 311 μm within 172 min. Due to the strong scattering, near-infrared extinction band, and easy functionalization of GTNPs, they could further serve as nanoprobes for 3D OCT or multimodal imaging of other molecules or ions in the future.

Role of micronutrients in skin health and function

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

Stem cells and aberrant signaling of molecular systems in skin aging

The skin is the body's largest organ and it is able to self-repair throughout an individual's life. With advanced age, skin is prone to degenerate in response to damage. Although cosmetic surgery has been widely adopted to rejuvinate skin, we are far from a clear understanding of the mechanisms responsible for skin aging. Recently, adult skin-resident stem/progenitor cells, growth arrest, senescence or apoptotic death and dysfunction caused by alterations in key signaling genes, such as Ras/Raf/MEK/ERK, PI3K/Akt-kinases, Wnt, p21 and p53, have been shown to play a vital role in skin regeneration. Simultaneously, enhanced telomere attrition, hormone exhaustion, oxidative stress, genetic events and ultraviolet radiation exposure that result in severe DNA damage, genomic instability and epigenetic mutations also contribute to skin aging. Therefore, cell replacement and targeting of the molecular systems found in skin hold great promise for controlling or even curing skin aging.

Vitamin E supplementation in canine atopic dermatitis: improvement of clinical signs and effects on oxidative stress markers

Low levels of plasma vitamin E concentrations were found in canine atopic dermatitis (CAD). The present study was aimed at determining the effect of an eight-week vitamin E supplementation on clinical response (Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index (CADESI-03) scores and pruritus intensity) in dogs with atopic dermatitis. Levels of oxidative stress markers (plasma malondialdehyde and total antioxidant capacity (TAC), blood glutathione peroxidase and erythrocyte superoxide dismutase, plasma and skin vitamin E concentrations) were also determined. Twenty-nine dogs with CAD were included in the study. Fourteen received vitamin E (8.1 IU/kg once daily, orally) and 15 received mineral oil as placebo (orally). All dogs were treated with antihistamine fexofenadine. Levels of oxidative stress markers (with the exception of skin vitamin E), CADESI-03 and pruritus intensity were determined at the beginning, then every two weeks. Skin vitamin E was determined at the beginning and at the end of the treatment. Significantly higher plasma levels of vitamin E and TAC were observed in the vitamin E group than in the placebo group. CADESI-03 scores determined throughout the treatment in the vitamin E group were significantly lower than in the placebo group. The findings of this study support the supplementation of vitamin E in dogs with atopic dermatitis.

Topical hesperidin prevents glucocorticoid-induced abnormalities in epidermal barrier function in murine skin

Systemic and topical glucocorticoids (GC) can cause significant adverse effects not only on the dermis, but also on epidermal structure and function. In epidermis, a striking GC-induced alteration in permeability barrier function occurs that can be attributed to an inhibition of epidermal mitogenesis, differentiation and lipid production. As prior studies in normal hairless mice demonstrated that topical applications of a flavonoid ingredient found in citrus, hesperidin, improve epidermal barrier function by stimulating epidermal proliferation and differentiation, we assessed here whether its topical applications could prevent GC-induced changes in epidermal function in murine skin and the basis for such effects. When hairless mice were co-treated topically with GC and 2% hesperidin twice-daily for 9 days, hesperidin co-applications prevented the expected GC-induced impairments of epidermal permeability barrier homoeostasis and stratum corneum (SC) acidification. These preventive effects could be attributed to a significant increase in filaggrin expression, enhanced epidermal β-glucocerebrosidase activity and accelerated lamellar bilayer maturation, the last two likely attributable to a hesperidin-induced reduction in stratum corneum pH. Furthermore, co-applications of hesperidin with GC largely prevented the expected GC-induced inhibition of epidermal proliferation. Finally, topical hesperidin increased epidermal glutathione reductase mRNA expression, which could counteract multiple functional negative effects of GC on epidermis. Together, these results show that topical hesperidin prevents GC-induced epidermal side effects by divergent mechanisms.

The protective role of antioxidants in the defence against ROS/RNS-mediated environmental pollution

Overproduction of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species can result from exposure to environmental pollutants, such as ionising and nonionising radiation, ultraviolet radiation, elevated concentrations of ozone, nitrogen oxides, sulphur dioxide, cigarette smoke, asbestos, particulate matter, pesticides, dioxins and furans, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and many other compounds present in the environment. It appears that increased oxidative/nitrosative stress is often neglected mechanism by which environmental pollutants affect human health. Oxidation of and oxidative damage to cellular components and biomolecules have been suggested to be involved in the aetiology of several chronic diseases, including cancer, cardiovascular disease, cataracts, age-related macular degeneration, and aging. Several studies have demonstrated that the human body can alleviate oxidative stress using exogenous antioxidants. However, not all dietary antioxidant supplements display protective effects, for example, β-carotene for lung cancer prevention in smokers or tocopherols for photooxidative stress. In this review, we explore the increases in oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental pollutants and the protective effects of antioxidants.

The role of antioxidants in skin cancer prevention and treatment

Skin cells are constantly exposed to reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. UV radiation is the most important environmental factor in the development of skin cancer and skin aging. The primary products caused by UV exposure are generally direct DNA oxidation or generation of free radicals which form and decompose extremely quickly but can produce effects that can last for hours, days, or even years. UV-induced generation of ROS in the skin develops oxidative stress when their formation exceeds the antioxidant defense ability. The reduction of oxidative stress can be achieved on two levels: by lowering exposure to UVR and/or by increasing levels of antioxidant defense in order to scavenge ROS. The only endogenous protection of our skin is melanin and enzymatic antioxidants. Melanin, the pigment deposited by melanocytes, is the first line of defense against DNA damage at the surface of the skin, but it cannot totally prevent skin damage. A second category of defense is repair processes, which remove the damaged biomolecules before they can accumulate and before their presence results in altered cell metabolism. Additional UV protection includes avoidance of sun exposure, usage of sunscreens, protective clothes, and antioxidant supplements.

Use of alpha-tocopherol esters for topical vitamin E treatment: evaluation of their skin permeation and metabolism

Objectives

The aim of this work was to investigate new pro-vitamins based on α-tocopherol (α-Toc) and fatty acids, and to compare their properties with those of α-tocopherol acetate (α-TAc).

Methods

Skin levels of α-Toc–fatty acid ester conjugates, total α-Toc and endogenous α-Toc were measured in skin samples taken from separate groups of treated and untreated rats. Multiple and extensive treatment with α-Toc oleate and α-TAc was also carried out to assess the skin accumulation and safety of these esters.

Key findings

The in-vivo studies revealed that α-Toc–fatty acid conjugates penetrated into the skin quantitatively while being comparable with the permeation of α-TAc. Differences were found between the levels of total α-Toc and endogenous α-Toc after application of α-TAc, α-Toc oleate, α-Toc linoleate, α-Toc-α linolenate and α-Toc palmitate, indicating that α-Toc conjugates of these fatty acids, but not α-Toc γ-linolenate or α-Toc stearate, were hydrolysed to free α-Toc. In long-term and extensive treatment, α-TAc was found to be lethal to rats treated with 1.15 mg/kg of this agent, which had been spread over 16 cm2 of skin. Similar treatment with α-Toc oleate did not produce any side effects.

Conclusions

This study suggests that α-Toc conjugates with unsaturated fatty acids may be a good alternative as stable vitamin E derivatives, rather than the α-TAc ester.

Antioxidants and the skin: understanding formulation and efficacy

Antioxidants are molecules capable of inhibiting the oxidation of other molecules. Although oxidation reactions are essential for life, they can also be damaging. All living organisms maintain complex systems of multiple types of antioxidants to protect their cells from oxidative damage. Antioxidants can also act as pro-oxidants, under certain circumstances. The efficacy and benefit of an antioxidant is, therefore, very much dependent on the delivery of the antioxidant to the organism. Topically applied antioxidants constitute an important group of pharmacologically active agents capable of preventing the occurrence and reducing the severity of UV-induced skin damage and skin aging. Antioxidants protect skin cells against the damaging effects of reactive oxygen species (ROS), such as singlet oxygen, superoxide, peroxyl radicals, hydroxyl radicals, and peroxynitrite. ROS induced oxidative stress in the skin has been linked to cancer, aging, inflammation, and photodamage. This review focuses on antioxidants used in the cosmetic industry for protection of skin, formulation methods used to enhance their efficacy, and methods used to test the efficacy of antioxidants in topical formulations.

Acute effects of cigarette smoke on three-dimensional cultures of normal human oral mucosa

CONTEXT

Human oral mucosa is the combustion chamber of cigarette, but scanty evidence is available about the early smoke effects.

OBJECTIVE

The present work aimed at evaluating from a morphological point of view whole smoke early effects on epithelial intercellular adhesion and keratinocyte terminal differentiation in a three-dimensional model of human oral mucosa.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Biopsies of keratinized oral mucosa of healthy nonsmoking women (n = 5) were collected. After culturing in a Transwell system, one fragment of each biopsy was exposed to the smoke of one single cigarette; the remnant represented the internal control. The distribution of epithelial differentiation markers (keratin-10, K10, and keratin-14, K14, for suprabasal and basal cells respectively), desmosomes (desmoglein-1, desmoglein-3), tight junctions (occludin), adherens junctions (E-cadherin, β-catenin), and apoptotic cells (p53, caspase 3) were evaluated by immunofluorescence.

RESULTS

Quantitative analysis of K14 immunolabeling revealed an overexpression in the suprabasal layers as early as 3 h after smoke exposure, without impairment of the epithelial junctional apparatus and apoptosis induction.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

These results suggested that the first significant response to cigarette smoke came from the basal and suprabasal layers of the human oral epithelium. The considered model maintained the three-dimensional arrangement of the human mucosa in the oral cavity and mimicked the inhalation/exhalation cycle during the exposure to cigarette smoke, offering a good possibility to extrapolate the reported observations to humans.

Topical hesperidin improves epidermal permeability barrier function and epidermal differentiation in normal murine skin

Orange peel extract appears to exhibit beneficial effects on skin whitening, inflammation, UVB protection, as well as keratinocyte proliferation. In the present study, we determine whether topical hesperidin influences epidermal permeability barrier function and its underlying mechanisms. Hairless mice were treated topically with 2% hesperidin or 70% ethanol alone twice daily for 6 days. At the end of treatment, basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured 2 and 4 h post barrier disruption. Epidermal proliferation and differentiation were evaluated by immunohistochemical staining and Western blot analysis. Additionally, lamellar body density and secretion were assessed by electron microscopy. Although there were no significant differences in basal barrier function, in comparison with control animals, topical hesperidin significantly accelerated barrier recovery at both 2 and 4 h after acute barrier abrogation. Enhanced barrier function in hesperidin-treated skin correlated with stimulation of both epidermal proliferation and differentiation, as well as enhanced lamellar body secretion. These results indicate that topical hesperidin enhances epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis at least in part due to stimulation of epidermal proliferation, differentiation, as well as lamellar body secretion.

Differences in susceptibility to oxidative stress in the skin of Japanese and French subjects and physiological characteristics of their skin

BACKGROUND

Many researchers have studied differences in conditions of ethnic skin using biophysical measurements. However, few studies to date have focused on the antioxidative capacity of the skin.

METHODS

We measured two parameters of oxidative stress in the stratum corneum, catalase activity and protein carbonylation of the stratum corneum (SCCP), in two ethnic groups, Japanese and French subjects, to characterize the susceptibility to oxidative stress. We also measured several physiological parameters at three different skin sites, two sun-exposed sites (cheek and dorsal aspect of the hand) and a sun-protected site (inner upper arm), in both ethnic groups.

RESULTS

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the size of corneocytes and skin color showed differences between sun-exposed and sun-protected sites regardless of ethnicity. Regarding ethnic differences, catalase activities and parameters of skin hydration and barrier function of Japanese subjects were higher than those of French subjects. However, SCCP values showed a trend contrary to catalase activity. The difference in the b* value indicated that the melanin content of Japanese skin was higher than that of French skin. Pearson's correlation analyses showed that catalase activity and SCCP values had weak relationships with water content, TEWL and skin color in both ethnic groups.

CONCLUSION

Differences in susceptibility to oxidative stress, namely melanin content and catalase activity in the skin, induce the better skin condition of Japanese compared with French subjects.

Methods for evaluation of cosmetic antioxidant capacity

The skin as the largest part of human body is one of the main targets for ultraviolet radiation, environmental pollution, toxic chemicals and some metal ions, which share responsibility for the formation of free radicals. The resulting free radicals, both oxygen and nitrogen species are one of the main causes of aging due to impaired regulation of cell respiratory metabolism involving incomplete oxygen reduction in mitochondria and production a superoxide anion, hydroxyl radicals et al. In modern cosmetology to minimize the adverse effects of free radicals, antioxidants, which inhibit free radical reactions, mainly autoxidation processes are used. Currently, not only many cosmetic products containing antioxidants are available, but a large diversity of methods for determination of cosmetics antioxidant activity is also accessible. These methods can be divided into three main groups: in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo as reported herein. Due to lack of standardization and validation it is necessary to use a variety of methods as well as conditions for those purposes, which are presented to the context.

Kinetics of carotenoid distribution in human skin in vivo after exogenous stress: disinfectant and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion recovers from outside to inside

The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive effect of free radicals. The aim of the present study was to investigate the extent of exogenous stress factors such as disinfectant and IR-A radiation on the skin, and their influence on the kinetics of carotenoids distribution during the recovery process. Ten healthy volunteers were assessed with resonance spectroscopy using an Argon-laser at 488 nm to excite the carotenoids in vivo. Additionally, Raman-confocal-micro-spectroscopy measurements were performed using a model 3510 Skin Composition Analyzer with spatially resolved measurements down to 30 μm. The measurements were performed at a baseline of 20, 40, 60, and 120 min after an external stressor consisting either of water-filtered infrared A (wIRA) with 150 mW∕cm(2) or 1 ml∕cm(2) of an alcoholic disinfectant. Both Raman methods were capable to detect the infrared-induced depletion of carotenoids. Only Raman-microspectroscopy could reveal the carotenoids decrease after topical disinfectant application. The carotenoid-depletion started at the surface. After 60 min, recovery starts at the surface while deeper parts were still depleted. The disinfectant- and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion in the epidermis recovers from outside to inside and probably delivered by sweat and sebaceous glands. We could show that the Raman microscopic spectroscopy is suited to analyze the carotenoid kinetic of stress effects and recovery.

Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation - a review

Inflammation and the resulting accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in the intrinsic and photoaging of human skin in vivo. Environmental insults such as ultraviolet (UV) rays from sun, cigarette smoke exposure and pollutants, and the natural process of aging contribute to the generation of free radicals and ROS that stimulate the inflammatory process in the skin. UV irradiation initiates and activates a complex cascade of biochemical reactions in human skin. In short, UV causes depletion of cellular antioxidants and antioxidant enzymes (SOD, catalase), initiates DNA damage leading to the formation of thymidine dimmers, activates the neuroendocrine system leading to immunosuppression and release of neuroendocrine mediators, and causes increased synthesis and release of pro-inflammatory mediators from a variety of skin cells. The pro-inflammatory mediators increase the permeability of capillaries leading to infiltration and activation of neutrophils and other phagocytic cells into the skin. The net result of all these effects is inflammation and free radical generation (both reactive oxygen and nitrogen species). Furthermore, elastsases and other proteases (cathepsin G) released from neutrophils cause further inflammation, and activation of matrix metalloproteases. The inflammation further activates the transcription of various matrixes degrading metalloproteases, leading to abnormal matrix degradation and accumulation of non-functional matrix components. In addition, the inflammation and ROS cause oxidative damage to cellular proteins, lipids and carbohydrates, which accumulates in the dermal and epidermal compartments, contributing to the aetiology of photoaging. Strategies to prevent photodamage caused by this cascade of reactions initiated by UV include: prevention of UV penetration into skin by physical and chemical sunscreens, prevention/reduction of inflammation using anti-inflammatory compounds (e.g. cyclooxygenase inhibitors, inhibitors of cytokine generation); scavenging and quenching of ROS by antioxidants; inhibition of neutrophil elastase activity to prevent extracellular matrix damage and activation of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs), and inhibition of MMP expression (e.g. by retinoids) and activity (e.g. by natural and synthetic inhibitors).

Chemoprevention of human actinic keratoses by topical DL-alpha-tocopherol

Prior research shows that topical application of free, nonfatty acid-conjugated vitamin E (DL-alpha-tocopherol) prevents skin cancer in mice, as well as immunosuppression induced by UVB radiation. This study investigated the chemopreventive potential of DL-alpha-tocopherol in humans through monitoring surrogate end point biomarkers in sun-damaged skin. Contralateral arms of healthy human volunteers with actinic keratoses (AK) were randomly assigned to receive either 12.5% DL-alpha-tocopherol or placebo in a crème base for 6 months. Changes in number of AKs, levels of p53 protein expression, proliferating cell nuclear antigen, and polyamines were assessed along with skin and systemic vitamin E levels. Following treatment, plasma concentration levels of DL-alpha-tocopherol were unchanged, but skin levels were highly elevated (P < 0.001). Levels of p53 and proliferating cell nuclear antigen did not change significantly, whereas number of AKs declined insignificantly in both placebo and treatment arms. Regression models showed significant decreases in putrescine, spermidine, spermine, and total polyamine concentrations following treatment. Topically applied DL-alpha-tocopherol was substantially absorbed in skin, but the 6-month application did not significantly reduce numbers of preexisting AKs on moderately to severely sun-damaged forearms. Increases in polyamine synthesis are expected during tumor initiation and promotion; conversely, the significant reductions in polyamine levels resulting from the topical DL-alpha-tocopherol application are consistent with reductions in tumorigenesis potential. Topical tocopherol did not normalize established sun-induced lesions, but DL-alpha-tocopherol-induced reductions in polyamine metabolism are consistent with the inhibition of skin squamous cell carcinogenesis as seen in previous human trials and animal models.

Hypericin phototoxicity induces different modes of cell death in melanoma and human skin cells

Hypericin, the major component of St. John's Wort, absorbs light in the UV and visible ranges whereupon it becomes phototoxic through the production of reactive oxygen species. Although photodynamic mechanisms (i.e. through endogenous photosensitizers) play a role in UVA phototherapy for the treatment of skin disorders such as eczema and psoriasis, photodynamic therapy employing exogenous photosensitizers are currently being used only for the treatment of certain forms of non-melanoma skin cancers and actinic keratoses. There are few reports however on its use in treating melanomas. This in vitro study analyses the phototoxic effect of UVA (400-315 nm) - activated hypericin in human pigmented and unpigmented melanomas and immortalised keratinocytes and melanocytes. We show that neither hypericin exposure nor UV irradiation alone reduces cell viability. We show that an exposure to 1 microM UVA-activated hypericin does not bring about cell death, while 3 microM activated hypericin induces a necrotic mode of cell death in pigmented melanoma cells and melanocytes and an apoptotic mode of cell death in non-pigmented melanoma cells and keratinocytes. We hypothesis that the necrotic mode of cell death in the pigmented cells is possibly related to the presence of melanin-containing melanosomes in these cells and that the hypericin-induced increase in reactive oxygen species leads to an increase in permeability of melanosomes. This would result in toxic melanin precursors (of an indolic and phenolic nature) leaking into the cytoplasm which in turn leads to cell death. Hypericin localisation in the endoplasmic reticulum in these cells shown by fluorescent microscopy, further support a disruption in cellular processing and induction of cell death. In contrast, this study shows that cells that do not contain melanosomes (non-pigmented melanoma cells and keratinocytes) die by apoptosis. Further, using a mitochondrial-specific fluorescent dye, we show that intracellular accumulation of hypericin induces a mitochondrial-associated caspase-dependent apoptotic mode of cell death. This work suggests that UVA is effective in activating hypericin and that this phototoxicity may be considered as treatment option in some cases of lentigo maligna or lentigo maligna melanoma that are too large for surgical resection.

Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals

Although many cosmeceutical formulations contain vitamin C and/or vitamin E, very few are actually effective in topical application. First because there is only a low concentration, second because the stability is compromised as soon as the product is opened and exposed to air and light, and third because the form of the molecule (an ester or a mixture of isomers) is not absorbed or metabolized effectively by the skin. However, when a stable formulation delivers a high concentration of the nonesterified, optimal isomer of the antioxidant, vitamins C and E do indeed inhibit the acute ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic - particularly in UV protection.