Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

The Innovative and Evolving Landscape of Topical Exosome and Peptide Therapies: A Systematic Review of the Available Literature

Topical antiaging therapies provide noninvasive delivery of active therapeutics. Exosomes, or extracellular nanovesicles, and peptides, small strings of amino acids, have shown promise as topical therapies in early trials, but neither is FDA approved. This review aims to elucidate the current and future landscape of topical exosomes and peptides as therapeutics for skin rejuvenation. A literature search was conducted using the keywords "peptides" OR "exosomes" AND "skin" OR "rejuvenation." Primary endpoints included mechanisms of action in humans or live animals as well as clinical data supporting the use of exosomes or peptides topically for skin rejuvenation or wound healing. Secondary endpoints were safety, side effects, and efficacy. The articles were collected, organized, and sorted using the Covidence software (Melbourne, Australia) for systematic review. Nine articles evaluating topical application of exosomes and 9 of peptides met inclusion criteria. Topical exosomes were found to increase collagen deposition, accelerate wound healing, and improve overall cosmesis. Several clinical trials are currently underway. Topical peptides were found to improve appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, elasticity and viscoelasticity, skin texture, skin thickness, and the potential for accelerated wound healing. Peptides are quite common in "cosmeceutical" products, and several patents have been filed for topical peptide products aimed at increasing skin rejuvenation. This could indicate a movement toward pursuing FDA approval. The future of topical exosome and peptide products for the purpose of skin rejuvenation appears promising. Preliminary data from the studies reviewed here indicates that these products have the potential to be safe and effective.

Level of Evidence 3

Dermatological ultrasound in assessing skin aging

Ultrasonography (US) has emerged as a pivotal tool in Dermatology since its inaugural use in 1979. Its evolution encompasses technological advancements, higher frequencies, and diverse applications in clinical, surgical, and research aspects. The discussion centers on its crucial role in assessing skin aging through various parameters such as skin thickness, subepidermal low echogenicity band (SLEB) characterization, and echogenicity assessment. This analysis can help guide interventions in a more personalized manner for each patient and assess the effectiveness of cosmetics and procedures. Despite its widespread utility, challenges persist, including discrepancies in research outcomes, operator dependence, inability to detect minute lesions, and measurement variations throughout the day. Combining US with complementary methodologies is advocated for a better understanding of skin aging in vivo. The cost-effectiveness and non-invasiveness of the US emphasize its promising future in dermatology, but ongoing research remains imperative to enhance its accuracy and expand its applications.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Chitosan-PEG Gels Loaded with Jatropha mollissima (Pohl) Baill. Ethanolic Extract: An Efficient and Effective Biomaterial in Hemorrhage Control

A lack of control over blood loss can have catastrophic implications, including death. Although several hemostatic medications have been employed to reduce bleeding, a vast majority of them are ineffective, expensive, or pose health risks to the patient. To overcome these constraints, chitosan-polyethylene glycol (CS-PEG) hemostatic gels loaded with ethanolic extract of Jatropha mollissima sap (EES) were prepared and their hemostatic, physicochemical, and cytotoxic properties were evaluated. The gels were produced by mixing CS with PEG (an external plasticizer) and EES. The phytochemical analysis revealed a significant concentration of total polyphenols and tannins content in the extract and catechin was identified as one of the key compounds of EES. Infrared spectroscopy analysis revealed the presence of EES in the gels, as well as the chemical interaction between CS and PEG. The gels were thermally stable between 25 and 37 °C (ambient and human body temperature range), had pseudoplastic deformation behavior (rheological properties preserved after shearing), were simple to inject (compression force 30 N), and were biocompatible. In vivo experiments showed that both CS-PEG-EES gels exhibited greater hemostatic action in preventing tail hemorrhage in Wistar rats, with decreased bleeding time and blood weight compared with unloaded CS-PEG gels (control groups) and Hemostank, a commercial product. However, the gel prepared with acetic acid was more efficient in controlling bleeding. These findings reveal that CS-PEG-EES gels can reduce hemorrhages and are a potent, simple, and safe hemostatic agent.

Clinical and histologic findings after use of a novel combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin

BACKGROUND

Neck skin is thinner and has a more delicate dermal layer than facial skin. The studied product was specifically formulated for the neck combining a hydrating delivery system with a trifunctional corrective technology composed of 0.2% pure retinol, 2.5% tripeptide concentrate, and 5.0% glaucine complex to help improvement in signs of aging.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate cosmetic and histologic changes 3 months after treatment using immunostains for Type I collagen, Type III collagen, and glycosaminoglycan (GAGS). In addition, overall clinical improvement in photoaged skin was measured by both Griffith's photonumeric photoaging scale, photographic improvement, and questionnaires.

METHODS

This study was an open-label, blinded clinical trial evaluating a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin. The study enrolled a total of 20 healthy male or female subjects, who applied the product for 3 months to their face and neck.

RESULTS

Clinical as well histologic changes were consistent with improvement in all 20 subjects.

CONCLUSION

Use of a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream led to both clinical and histologic improvement of phototoaging.

Senotherapeutic peptide treatment reduces biological age and senescence burden in human skin models

Cellular senescence is known to play a role in age-related skin function deterioration which potentially influences longevity. Here, a two-step phenotypic screening was performed to identify senotherapeutic peptides, leading to the identification of Peptide (Pep) 14. Pep 14 effectively decreased human dermal fibroblast senescence burden induced by Hutchinson-Gilford Progeria Syndrome (HGPS), chronological aging, ultraviolet-B radiation (UVB), and etoposide treatment, without inducing significant toxicity. Pep 14 functions via modulation of PP2A, an understudied holoenzyme that promotes genomic stability and is involved in DNA repair and senescence pathways. At the single-cell level, Pep 14 modulates genes that prevent senescence progression by arresting the cell cycle and enhancing DNA repair, which consequently reduce the number of cells progressing to late senescence. When applied on aged ex vivo skin, Pep 14 promoted a healthy skin phenotype with structural and molecular resemblance to young ex vivo skin, decreased the expression of senescence markers, including SASP, and reduced the DNA methylation age. In summary, this work shows the safe reduction of the biological age of ex vivo human skins by a senomorphic peptide.

Clinical Use of Non-Suture Silk-Containing Products: A Systematic Review

AIMS

The purpose of this systematic review is to determine how various innovative non-suture silk and silk-containing products are being used in clinical practice, and compare patient outcomes following their use.

METHODS

A systematic review of PubMed, Web of Science, and Cochrane was completed. A qualitative synthesis of all included studies was then performed.

RESULTS

Our electronic search identified 868 silk-related publications, which yielded 32 studies for full-text review. After exclusion, nine studies from 2011 to 2018 were included for qualitative analysis. A total of 346 patients were included which consisted of 37 males and 309 females. The mean age range was between 18-79 years old. The follow-up among studies ranged between one to twenty-nine months. Three studies addressed the application of silk in wound dressings, one on the topical application of silk-derived products, one on silk-derived scaffold in breast reconstruction, and three on silk underwear as adjunct for the treatment of gynecological conditions. All studies showed good outcomes alone or in comparison to controls.

CONCLUSION

This systematic review concludes that silk products' structural, immune, and wound-healing modulating properties are advantageous clinical assets. Nevertheless, more studies are needed to strengthen and establish the benefit of those products.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Efficient production of retinol in Yarrowia lipolytica by increasing stability using antioxidant and detergent extraction

The demand for bio-based retinol (vitamin A) is currently increasing, however its instability represents a major bottleneck in microbial production. Here, we developed an efficient method to selectively produce retinol in Yarrowia lipolytica. The β-carotene 15,15'-dioxygenase (BCO) cleaves β-carotene into retinal, which is reduced to retinol by retinol dehydrogenase (RDH). Therefore, to produce retinol, we first generated β-carotene-producing strain based on a high-lipid-producer via overexpressing genes including heterologous β-carotene biosynthetic genes, GGS1^F43I mutant of endogenous geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate synthase isolated by directed evolution, and FAD1 encoding flavin adenine dinucleotide synthetase, while deleting several genes previously known to be beneficial for carotenoid production. To produce retinol, 11 copies of BCO gene from marine bacterium 66A03 (Mb.Blh) were integrated into the rDNA sites of the β-carotene overproducer. The resulting strain produced more retinol than retinal, suggesting strong endogenous promiscuous RDH activity in Y. lipolytica. The introduction of Mb.BCO led to a considerable reduction in β-carotene level, but less than 5% of the consumed β-carotene could be detected in the form of retinal or retinol, implying severe degradation of the produced retinoids. However, addition of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) led to a >20-fold increase in retinol production, suggesting oxidative damage is the main cause of intracellular retinol degradation. Overexpression of GSH2 encoding glutathione synthetase further improved retinol production. Raman imaging revealed co-localization of retinol with lipid droplets, and extraction of retinol using Tween 80 was effective in improving retinol production. By combining BHT treatment and extraction using Tween 80, the final strain CJ2104 produced 4.86 g/L retinol and 0.26 g/L retinal in fed-batch fermentation in a 5-L bioreactor, which is the highest retinol production titer ever reported. This study demonstrates that Y. lipolytica is a suitable host for the industrial production of bio-based retinol.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.