Current Insights on Lipidomics in Dermatology: A Systematic Review

Inflammatory dermatoses and lipid disturbances are interrelated, especially owing to chronic inflammatory conditions. This study aimed to investigate recent findings about lipidomic and dermatologic diseases as well as on the sampling techniques developed to study lipidomics in vivo and analytical and statistical approaches employed. A systematic review was designed using the search algorithm (lipidomics) AND (skin OR dermatology OR stratum corneum OR sebum OR epidermis), following Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. The literature search identified 1013 references, and finally, only 48 were selected, including a total of 2651 participants with a mean age of 34.13 ± 16.28 years. The dermatologic diseases evaluated were atopic dermatitis, acne, psoriasis, hidradenitis suppurativa, and other skin diseases. Sebutape was the primary sampling technique for lipidomics research. Most of the studies performed untargeted profiling through liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry statistically analyzed with principal component analysis, orthogonal partial least-squares discriminate analysis, heatmap, and volcano plot models. The most consulted databases were LIPIDMAPS Structure Database, MetaboAnalyst, and Human Metabolome Database. A large heterogeneity of lipidomic and lipid metabolism profiles was observed in patients with skin diseases. Skin lipidomic analysis is valuable in exploring skin disease and has ample translational potential.

Multi-omics analysis to evaluate the effects of solar exposure and a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen on markers of skin barrier function in a skin ecosystem model

Sun exposure induces major skin alterations, but its effects on skin metabolites and lipids remain largely unknown. Using an original reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with human microbiota and supplemented with human sebum, we previously showed that a single dose of simulated solar radiation (SSR) significantly impacted the skin metabolome and microbiota. In this article, we further analyzed SSR-induced changes on skin metabolites and lipids in the same RHE model. Among the significantly altered metabolites (log2-fold changes with p ≤ 0.05), we found several natural moisturizing factors (NMFs): amino acids, lactate, glycerol, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and derivatives. Analyses of the stratum corneum lipids also showed that SSR induced lower levels of free fatty acids and higher levels of ceramides, cholesterols and its derivatives. An imbalance in NMFs and ceramides combined to an increase of proinflammatory lipids may participate in skin permeability barrier impairment, dehydration and inflammatory reaction to the sun. Our skin model also allowed the evaluation of an innovative ultraviolet/blue light (UV/BL) broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF50+). We found that using this sunscreen prior to SSR exposure could in part prevent SSR-induced alterations in NMFs and lipids in the skin ecosystem RHE model.

Topically Applied Therapies for the Treatment of Skin Disease: Past, Present, and Future

The purpose of this review is to summarize essential biological, pharmaceutical, and clinical aspects in the field of topically applied medicines that may help scientists when trying to develop new topical medicines. After a brief history of topical drug delivery, a review of the structure and function of the skin and routes of drug absorption and their limitations is provided. The most prevalent diseases and current topical treatment approaches are then detailed, the organization of which reflects the key disease categories of autoimmune and inflammatory diseases, microbial infections, skin cancers, and genetic skin diseases. The complexity of topical product development through to large-scale manufacturing along with recommended risk mitigation approaches are then highlighted. As such topical treatments are applied externally, patient preferences along with the challenges they invoke are then described, and finally the future of this field of drug delivery is discussed, with an emphasis on areas that are more likely to yield significant improvements over the topical medicines in current use or would expand the range of medicines and diseases treatable by this route of administration. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: This review of the key aspects of the skin and its associated diseases and current treatments along with the intricacies of topical formulation development should be helpful in making judicious decisions about the development of new or improved topical medicines. These aspects include the choices of the active ingredients, formulations, the target patient population's preferences, limitations, and the future with regard to new skin diseases and topical medicine approaches.

Application of sphingolipid-based nanocarriers in drug delivery: an overview

Sphingolipids (SL) are well recognized for their cell signaling through extracellular and intracellular pathways. Based on chemistry different types of SL are biosynthesized in mammalian cells and have specific function in cellular activity. SL has an ampiphilic structure with have hydrophobic body attached to the polar head enables their use as a drug delivery agent in the form of nanocarriers. SL-based liposomes can improve the solubility of lipophilic drugs through host and drug complexes and are more stable than conventional liposomal formulations. Preclinical studies of SL nanocarriers are reported on topical delivery, oral delivery, ocular delivery, chemotherapeutic delivery, cardiovascular delivery and Alzheimer's disease. The commercial challenges and patents related to SL nanoformulations are highlighted in this article.

Skin Surface Sebum Analysis by ESI-MS

The skin surface is an important sample source that the metabolomics community has only just begun to explore. Alterations in sebum, the lipid-rich mixture coating the skin surface, correlate with age, sex, ethnicity, diet, exercise, and disease state, making the skin surface an ideal sample source for future noninvasive biomarker exploration, disease diagnosis, and forensic investigation. The potential of sebum sampling has been realized primarily via electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS), an ideal approach to assess the skin surface lipidome. However, a better understanding of sebum collection and subsequent ESI-MS analysis is required before skin surface sampling can be implemented in routine analyses. Challenges include ambiguity in definitive lipid identification, inherent biological variability in sebum production, and methodological, technical variability in analyses. To overcome these obstacles, avoid common pitfalls, and achieve reproducible, robust outcomes, every portion of the workflow-from sample collection to data analysis-should be carefully considered with the specific application in mind. This review details current practices in sebum sampling, sample preparation, ESI-MS data acquisition, and data analysis, and it provides important considerations in acquiring meaningful lipidomic datasets from the skin surface. Forensic researchers investigating sebum as a means for suspect elimination in lieu of adequate fingerprint ridge detail or database matches, as well as clinical researchers interested in noninvasive biomarker exploration, disease diagnosis, and treatment monitoring, can use this review as a guide for developing methods of best-practice.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Ionic composition of Shotokuseki extract alters cell differentiation and lipid metabolism in three-dimensional cultured human epidermis

Corneocytes and intercellular lipids form the stratum corneum. The content and composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum significantly affect skin barrier function. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the effect of Shotokuseki extract (SE) on intercellular lipid production and metabolism in human three-dimensional cultured human epidermis. SE or ion mixtures containing five common ions were applied to three-dimensional cultured human epidermis for 2-8 days for each assay. The mRNA expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers and lipid metabolism genes were quantified by real-time PCR. After extraction of lipids from the epidermis, ceramide, sphingosine, free fatty acids, and cholesterol were quantified by LC-MS/MS, GC-MS, or HPLC. The results showed that the application of SE increased the gene expression levels of epidermal differentiation markers keratin10 and transglutaminase. Elongation of very long-chain fatty acids protein 3, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and acid ceramidase mRNA expression levels increased and fatty acid synthase mRNA expression decreased. The content of each lipid, [EOS] ceramide decreased and total sphingosine content increased on day 4. On day 8 of application, ceramide [NDS], [NP], and [EODS] increased and total free fatty acid content decreased. These results show that SE alters the lipid composition of the epidermis, increasing ceramides and decreasing free fatty acids in the epidermis. The composition of the ions in the SE may be responsible for the changes in lipid composition. These behaviors were different from those observed when the ion mixture was applied.

Graphical abstract

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10616-024-00616-3.

Comparison between ammonium formate and ammonium fluoride in the analysis of stratum corneum lipids by reversed phase chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry

Lipids are key constituents of the barrier function in the human stratum corneum (SC), which is the outermost layer of the epidermis and amenable to non-invasive sampling by tape stripping. The three major lipid classes in the SC, i.e., ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol, present equimolar concentration. Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LCMS) is elective in profiling lipids in the SC in both positive and negative ion modes. Nevertheless, the latter one allows for the simultaneous detection of the three major epidermal components of the SC. Determination of ceramides in the SC poses analytical challenges due to their wide range of structures and concentrations especially in the case of limited sample amounts. Ammonium formate is a commonly used modifier added to the mobile phase to assist ionization. However, it introduces uncertainty in the identification of ceramides when operating in negative ion mode, even with high resolution MS. We tested the advantages of using fluoride in the lipid profiling of SC and unambiguous identification of ceramides subclasses. The use of fluoride enhanced the ionization of ceramides, regardless the specific substructure, solved misidentification issues, and was successfully applied to the simultaneous detection of all three lipid classes in the human SC.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Cytokines and Epidermal Lipid Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis: A Systematic Review

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic inflammatory skin disease and presents a major public health problem worldwide. It is characterized by a recurrent and/or chronic course of inflammatory skin lesions with intense pruritus. Its pathophysiologic features include barrier dysfunction, aberrant immune cell infiltration, and alterations in the microbiome that are associated with genetic and environmental factors. There is a complex crosstalk between these components, which is primarily mediated by cytokines. Epidermal barrier dysfunction is the hallmark of AD and is caused by the disruption of proteins and lipids responsible for establishing the skin barrier. To better define the role of cytokines in stratum corneum lipid abnormalities related to AD, we conducted a systematic review of biomedical literature in PubMed from its inception to 5 September 2023. Consistent with the dominant TH2 skewness seen in AD, type 2 cytokines were featured prominently as possessing a central role in epidermal lipid alterations in AD skin. The cytokines associated with TH1 and TH17 were also identified to affect barrier lipids. Considering the broad cytokine dysregulation observed in AD pathophysiology, understanding the role of each of these in lipid abnormalities and barrier dysfunction will help in developing therapeutics to best achieve barrier homeostasis in AD patients.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Non-invasive Microneedle Application Increases Ceramide and Natural Moisturizing Factors in a Reconstructed Human Skin Model

Recently, microneedling as a cosmetic product has attracted attention as one way to improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function to reduce wrinkle formation. However, some cases of erythema and edema have been reported as side effects. In order to develop safer microneedle cosmetics, we investigated whether microneedles can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function even when applied in a non-invasive manner that does not penetrate the stratum corneum. We established the condition of non-penetrating microneedle application on reconstructed human full-thickness skin models and examined the effect on the skin models when microneedles were applied under this condition. Microneedle application increased the gene expression of serine palmitoyltransferase long chain base subunit (SPTLC) 3, filaggrin, and transglutaminase 1. The amount of ceramide produced by SPTLC was also increased by microneedle application. Gene expression of filaggrin-degrading enzymes and the amount of free amino acids, a product of filaggrin degradation, were also increased by microneedling. These results suggest that non-invasive microneedle application can improve skin barrier function and moisturizing function by increasing the amount of ceramide and natural moisturizing factors.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

RNA sequencing and lipidomics uncovers novel pathomechanisms in recessive X-linked ichthyosis

Recessive X-linked ichthyosis (RXLI), a genetic disorder caused by deletion or point mutations of the steroid sulfatase (STS) gene, is the second most common form of ichthyosis. It is a disorder of keratinocyte cholesterol sulfate retention and the mechanism of extracutaneous phenotypes such as corneal opacities and attention deficit hyperactivity disorder are poorly understood. To understand the pathomechanisms of RXLI, the transcriptome of differentiated primary keratinocytes with STS knockdown was sequenced. The results were validated in a stable knockdown model of STS, to confirm STS specificity, and in RXLI skin. The results show that there was significantly reduced expression of genes related to epidermal differentiation and lipid metabolism, including ceramide and sphingolipid synthesis. In addition, there was significant downregulation of aldehyde dehydrogenase family members and the oxytocin receptor which have been linked to corneal transparency and behavioural disorders respectively, both of which are extracutaneous phenotypes of RXLI. These data provide a greater understanding of the causative mechanisms of RXLI's cutaneous phenotype, and show that the keratinocyte transcriptome and lipidomics can give novel insights into the phenotype of patients with RXLI.

Recombinant PNPLA1 catalyzes the synthesis of acylceramides and acyl acids with selective incorporation of linoleic acid

Loss-of-function mutations in patatin-like phospholipase domain-containing protein 1 (PNPLA1) cause autosomal recessive congenital ichthyosis, and altered PNPLA1 activity is implicated in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and other common skin diseases. To examine the hypothesis that PNPLA1 catalyzes the synthesis of acylceramides and acyl acids, we expressed and partially purified a soluble, truncated form of PNPLA1 in Escherichia coli, (PNPLA1trun) along with the related protein PNPLA2 (ATGL, adipose triglyceride lipase) and coactivator CGI-58. Liposomal substrates were incubated with recombinant enzymes for 0.5-24 h and products analyzed by HPLC-UV and LC-MS. Using trilinolein or dilinolein substrates, PNPLA1trun, like ATGLtrun, catalyzed lipolysis and acyltransferase reactions with 2-30% conversion into linoleic acid, monolinolein, and trilinolein. CGI-58 enhanced ATGL-catalyzed lipolysis as previously reported, but transacylase activity was not enhanced with ATGL or PNPLA1. In matching the proposed activity in vivo, PNPLA1 catalyzed acyl transfer from trilinolein and dilinolein donors to omega-hydroxy ceramide, omega-hydroxy glucosylceramide, and omega-hydroxy acid acceptors to form acylceramide, glucosyl-acylceramide, and acyl acid, respectively, albeit with only ∼0.05% conversion of the substrates. Notably, in experiments comparing dilinolein vs. diolein acyl donors, PNPLA1 transferred linoleate with 3:1 selectivity over oleate into acylceramide. These results support the role for PNPLA1 in the synthesis of acylceramides and acyl acids in epidermis and suggest that the enrichment of these lipids with linoleic acid could result from the substrate selectivity of PNPLA1.

Horse-Derived Ceramide Accentuates Glucosylceramide Synthase and Ceramide Synthase 3 by Activating PPARβ/δ and/or PPARγ to Stimulate Ceramide Synthesis

Horse-derived ceramide (HC), which contains galactosylceramides as its main component, significantly improves skin symptoms when applied topically to patients with atopic dermatitis. We speculated that efficacy resulted from the amelioration of epidermal ceramide metabolism, and we characterized those effects using reconstructed human epidermal equivalents. Lipid analysis, RT-PCR and Western blotting revealed that HC significantly increased the total ceramide content of the stratum corneum (SC), accompanied by significantly increased gene and/or protein expression levels of ceramide synthase (CERS) 3, fatty acid elongase (ELOVL) 4, glucosylceramide synthase (GCS), β-glucocerebrosidase, sphingomyelin synthase and acid sphingomyelinase. Mechanistic analyses using cultures of primary human keratinocytes revealed the marked stimulatory effects of HC on the mRNA expression levels of CERS3, ELOVL4 and GCS under high calcium-derived differentiation conditions. Signaling analyses demonstrated that an antagonist of PPARβ/δ significantly abrogated the HC-stimulated mRNA expression levels of GCS, CERS3 and ELOVL4. GW9662, an antagonist of PPARγ, significantly abolished the HC-up-regulated mRNA expression levels of GCS and ELOVL4, but not of CERS3. These findings suggest that HC has the distinct potential to accentuate the expression of GCS, CERS3 and ELOVL4 via the activation of PPARβ/δ and/or PPARγ to accelerate ceramide synthesis in the SC.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Dysregulated ceramide metabolism in mouse progressive dermatitis resulting from constitutive activation of Jak1

Coordinated lipid metabolism contributes to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating skin barrier formation, immune reactions, thermogenesis, and perception. Several reports have documented the changes in lipid composition in dermatitis, including in atopic dermatitis (AD); however, the specific mechanism by which these lipid profiles are altered during AD pathogenesis remains unknown. Here, we performed untargeted and targeted lipidomic analyses of an AD-like dermatitis model resulting from constitutive activation of Janus kinase 1 (Spade mice) to capture the comprehensive lipidome profile during dermatitis onset and progression. We successfully annotated over 700 skin lipids, including glycerophospholipids, ceramides, neutral lipids, and fatty acids, many of which were found to be present at significantly changed levels after dermatitis onset, as determined by the pruritus and erythema. Among them, we found the levels of ceramides composed of nonhydroxy fatty acid and dihydrosphingosine containing very long-chain (C22 or more) fatty acids were significantly downregulated before AD onset. Furthermore, in vitro enzyme assays using the skin of Spade mice demonstrated the enhancement of ceramide desaturation. Finally, we revealed topical application of ceramides composed of nonhydroxy fatty acid and dihydrosphingosine before AD onset effectively ameliorated the progression of AD symptoms in Spade mice. Our results suggest that the disruption in epidermal ceramide composition is caused by boosting ceramide desaturation in the initiation phase of AD, which regulates AD pathogenesis.

Ceramides from Sea Red Rice Bran Improve Health Indicators and Increase Stress Resistance of Caenorhabditis elegans through Insulin/IGF-1 Signaling (IIS) Pathway and JNK-1

The antiaging effects of sea red rice bran in vivo, a new saline-tolerant sea rice byproduct containing high levels of ceramides (Cers), remain unknown. This study aimed to explore the antiaging effects exerted by Cers from sea red rice bran on Caenorhabditis elegans, assess its health indicators as well as tolerance, and then reveal the mechanism of action of Cers in prolonging the mean life span through genetic studies. The results indicated that the mean life span of Cers-treated C. elegans were dose-dependent in the range of 0.10-0.50 mg/mL. Additionally, Cers improved nematode motility, reduced lipofuscin accumulation, and enhanced resistance to heat stress and antioxidant enzyme activity. Genetic studies showed that Cers treatment had altered nematode gene expression. In addition, insulin/IGF-1 and jnk-1/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways successfully demonstrated the longevity effects of Cers intake. In short, these results suggest that Cers enhance the resistance of C. elegans and prolong its life span.

Stratum Corneum Ceramide Profiles Provide Reliable Indicators of Remission and Potential Flares in Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease. Prevention of exacerbation of AD is a crucial issue for all physicians. However, exacerbation of AD often is seen during reduction of AD treatment, even with appropriate follow-up by tapered topical corticosteroids and daily topical moisturizers, indicating the need for good indicators of AD remission. We hypothesized that the presence of mutations in FLG or the stratum corneum ceramide profile on AD remission phase may predict the ease of AD exacerbation. This study examined the differences in the frequency of FLG mutations or stratum corneum ceramide profiles (stratum corneum levels and carbon chain length for 11 ceramide classes [ceramides containing nonhydroxy fatty acids and dihydrosphingosines; nonhydroxy fatty acids and sphingosines; nonhydroxy fatty acids and 6-hydroxysphingosines; nonhydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines; a-hydroxy fatty acids and dihydrosphingosines; a-hydroxy fatty acids and sphingosines; a-hydroxy fatty acids and 6-hydroxysphingosines; a-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines; ester-linked fatty acids, o-hydroxy fatty acids, and sphingosines; ester-linked fatty acids, o-hydroxy fatty acids, and 6-hydroxysphingosines; and ester-linked fatty acids, o-hydroxy fatty acids, and phytosphingosines]) at AD remission phase between the two AD study groups: subsequent exacerbation (‒) and (+) of AD. The frequency of FLG mutations did not differ between the study groups. On the other hand, the carbon chain lengths of ceramides containing nonhydroxy fatty acids and dihydrosphingosines, nonhydroxy fatty acids and sphingosines, and nonhydroxy fatty acids and 6-hydroxysphingosines were shorter in the exacerbated AD group than in the maintained-AD group. Thus, the stratum corneum ceramide profile at the remission phase of AD is a potential biomarker, predicting the likelihood of substantial AD remission or subsequent AD exacerbation.

Bioconjugation Strategies for Revealing the Roles of Lipids in Living Cells

The structural boundaries of living cells are composed of numerous membrane-forming lipids. Lipids not only are crucial for the cellular compartmentalization but also are involved in cell signaling as well as energy storage. Abnormal lipid levels have been linked to severe human diseases such as cancer, multiple sclerosis, neurodegenerative diseases, as well as lysosomal storage disorders. Given their biological significance, there is immense interest in studying lipids and their effect on cells. However, limiting factors include the low solubility of lipids, their structural complexity, and the challenge of using genetic techniques to directly manipulate lipid structure. Current methods to study lipids rely mostly on lipidomics, which analyzes the composition of lipid extracts using mass spectrometry. Although, these efforts have successfully catalogued and profiled a great number of lipids in cells, many aspects about their exact functional role and subcellular distribution remain enigmatic.In this Account, we outline how our laboratory developed and applied different bioconjugation strategies to study the role of lipids and lipid modifications in cells. Inspired by our ongoing work on developing lipid bioconjugation strategies to generate artificial cell membranes, we developed a ceramide synthesis method in live cells using a salicylaldehyde ester that readily reacts with sphingosine in form of a traceless ceramide ligation. Our study not only confirmed existing knowledge about the association of ceramides with cell death, but also gave interesting new findings about the structure-function relationship of ceramides in apoptosis. Our initial efforts led us to investigate probes that detect endogenous sphingolipids using live cell imaging. We describe the development of a fluorogenic probe that reacts chemoselectively with sphingosine in living cells, enabling the detection of elevated endogenous levels of this biomarker in human disease. Building on our interest in the fluorescence labeling of lipids, we have also explored the use of bioorthogonal reactions to label chemically synthesized lipid probes. We discuss the development of photocaged dihydrotetrazine lipids, where the initiation of the bioorthogonal reaction can be triggered by visible light, allowing for live cell modification of membranes with spatiotemporal control.Finally, proteins are often post-translationally modified by lipids, which have important effects on protein subcellular localization and function. Controlling lipid modifications with small molecule probes could help reveal the function of lipid post-translational modifications and could potentially inspire novel therapeutic strategies. We describe how our previous studies on synthetic membrane formation inspired us to develop an amphiphilic cysteine derivative that depalmitoylates membrane-bound S-acylated proteins in live cells. Ultimately, we applied this amphiphile mediated depalmitoylation (AMD) in studies investigating the palmitoylation of cancer relevant palmitoylated proteins in healthy and diseased cells.

Investigating the nanostructure of a CER[NP]/CER[AP]-based stratum corneum lipid matrix model: A combined neutron diffraction & molecular dynamics simulations approach

The human skin provides a physiochemical and biological protective barrier due to the unique structure of its outermost layer known as the Stratum corneum. This layer consists of corneocytes and a multi-lamellar lipid matrix forming a composite, which is a major determining factor for the barrier function of the Stratum corneum. A substantiated understanding of this barrier is necessary, as controlled breaching or modulation of the same is also essential for various health and personal care applications such as topical drug delivery and cosmetics to a name few. In this study, we discuss the state-of-the-art of neutron diffraction techniques, using specifically deuterated lipids, combined with the information obtained from molecular models using molecular dynamics simulations, to understand the structure and barrier function of the Stratum corneum lipid matrix. As an example, the effect of ceramide concentration on a lipid lamella system consisting of CER[NP]/CER[AP]/Cholesterol/free fatty acid (deprotonated) is studied. This study demonstrates the usefulness of the combined approach of neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics simulations for effective analysis of the model systems created for the Stratum corneum lipid matrix. The optimization of force fields by comparison with experimental data is furthermore an important step in the direction of providing a predictive quality.

Omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids reverse the impact of western diets on regulatory T cell responses through averting ceramide-mediated pathways

Western diet (WD), high in sugar and fat, promotes obesity and associated chronic low-grade pro-inflammatory environment, leading to impaired immune function, reprogramming of innate and adaptive immune cells, and development of chronic degenerative diseases, including cardiovascular disease. Increased concentrations of circulating and tissue ceramides contribute to inflammation and cellular dysfunction common in immune metabolic and cardiometabolic disease. Therefore, ceramide-lowering interventions have been considered as strategies to improve adipose tissue health. Here, we report the ability of omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-3PUFA) to attenuate inflammatory phenotypes promoted by WD, through ceramide-dependent pathways. Using an animal model, we show that enrichment of WD diet with n-3PUFA, reduced the expression of ceramide synthase 2 (CerS2), and lowered the concentration of long-chain ceramides (C23-C26) in plasma and adipose tissues. N-3PUFA also increased prevalence of the anti-inflammatory CD4+Foxp3+ and CD4+Foxp3+CD25+ Treg subtypes in lymphoid organs. The CerS inhibitor FTY720 mirrored the effect of n-3PUFA. Treatment of animal and human T cells with ceramide C24 in vitro, reduced CD4+Foxp3+ Treg polarisation and IL-10 production, and increased IL-17, while it decreased Erk and Akt phosphorylation downstream of T cell antigen receptors (TCR). These findings suggest that molecular mechanisms mediating the adverse effect of ceramides on regulatory T lymphocytes, progress through reduced TCR signalling. Our findings suggest that nutritional enrichment of WD with fish oil n-3PUFA can partially mitigate its detrimental effects, potentially improving the low-grade inflammation associated with immune metabolic disease. Compared to pharmacological interventions, n-3PUFA offer a simpler approach that can be accommodated as lifestyle choice.

Phytosphingosine ceramide mainly localizes in the central layer of the unique lamellar phase of skin lipid model systems

Understanding the lipid arrangement within the skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for advancing knowledge on the skin barrier function. The SC lipid matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids, which form unique crystalline lamellar phases, referred to as the long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phases. As the SC lipid composition is complex, lipid model systems that mimic the properties of native SC are used to study the SC lipid organization and molecular arrangement. In previous studies, such lipid models were used to determine the molecular organization in the trilayer structure of the LPP unit cell. The aim of this study was to examine the location of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP) in the unit cell of this lamellar phase and compare its position with CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS). We selected CER NP as it is the most prevalent CER subclass in the human SC, and its location in the LPP is not known. Our neutron diffraction results demonstrate that the acyl chain of CER NP was positioned in the central part of the trilayer structure, with a fraction also present in the outer layers, the same location as determined for the acyl chain of CER NS. In addition, our Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy results are in agreement with this molecular arrangement, suggesting a linear arrangement for the CER NS and CER NP. These findings provide more detailed insight into the lipid organization in the SC lipid matrix.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Season- and facial site-specific skin changes due to long-term mask wearing during the COVID-19 pandemic

Background

As people have regularly worn facial masks due to the coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID‐19) pandemic, mask‐wear‐related adverse effects on the skin have been recognized. The aim of this study was to explore skin changes, their seasonal variations in the general population caused by commonly used masks and a possible mechanism underlying negative effects of mask‐wearing.

Materials and methods

Eighteen Japanese females participated in the study during summer and winter in Japan. Skin characteristics were measured in the non‐mask‐wearing preauricular area and the mask‐wearing cheek and perioral areas.

Results

Trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) on the cheek area tended to be increased in winter, which was positively correlated with skin scaliness on the same area. Ceramide (CER) content and composition in the mask‐covered stratum corneum (SC) were slightly changed between summer and winter, and CER [NP]/[NS] ratio was negatively correlated with the TEWL on the perioral skin in winter. Skin hydration and sebum secretion were higher on the cheek compared to the perioral area in summer. Skin redness was particularly high on the cheek in winter.

Conclusion

Mask‐wear‐related skin changes were season‐ and facial site‐specific, and alterations in SC CER may play a role in barrier‐related skin problems caused by mask use.

Whole picture of human stratum corneum ceramides, including the chain-length diversity of long-chain bases

Ceramides are essential lipids for skin permeability barrier function, and a wide variety of ceramide species exist in the stratum corneum (SC). Although ceramides with long-chain bases (LCBs) of various lengths have been identified in the human SC, a quantitative analysis that distinguishes ceramide species with different LCB chain lengths has not been yet published. Therefore, the whole picture of human SC ceramides remains unclear. Here, we conducted LC/MS/MS analyses to detect individual ceramide species differing in both the LCB and FA chain lengths and quantified 1,327 unbound ceramides and 254 protein-bound ceramides: the largest number of ceramide species reported to date. Ceramides containing an LCB whose chain length was C16–26 were present in the human SC. Of these, C18 (28.6%) was the most abundant, followed by C20 (24.8%) and C22 (12.8%). Each ceramide class had a characteristic distribution of LCB chain lengths and was divided into five groups according to this distribution. There was almost no difference in FA composition between the ceramide species containing LCBs of different chain lengths. Furthermore, we demonstrated that one of the serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) complexes, SPTLC1/SPTLC3/SPTSSB, was able to produce C16–24 LCBs. The expression levels of all subunits constituting the SPT complexes increased during keratinocyte differentiation, resulting in the observed chain-length diversity of LCBs in the human SC. This study provides a molecular basis for elucidating human SC ceramide diversity and the pathogenesis of skin disorders.

Alteration of barrier properties, stratum corneum ceramides and microbiome composition in response to lotion application on cosmetic dry skin

Xerosis, commonly referred to as dry skin, is a common dermatological condition affecting almost a third of the population. Successful treatment of the condition traditionally involves the application of cosmetic products facilitating the moisturisation of the skin with a range of ingredients including glycerol and fatty acids. While the effectiveness of these treatments is not in question, limited information exists on the impact on the skin microbiome following use of these products and the improvement in skin hydration. Here, we describe improvements in skin barrier properties together with increased levels of cholesterol, ceramides and long-chain fatty acids following application of Body Lotion. Concomitant alterations in the skin microbiome are also seen via 16S rRNA metataxonomics, in combination with both traditional and novel informatics analysis. Following 5 weeks of lotion use, beneficial skin bacteria are increased, with improvements in microbiome functional potential, and increases in pathways associated with biosynthesis of multiple long chain fatty acids.

Stratum corneum ceramide profiles in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo: characterization of the α-hydroxy double esterified ceramides

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSⁿ). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS²/MS³ analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

Effects of a moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract on sweating function in adult atopic dermatitis: a double-blind, randomized, controlled left-right comparison clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Many patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) have a decreased ability to sweat. Several factors can cause decreased perspiration, such as weak tight junctions of sweat ducts, reduced acetylcholine receptor function and inhibition of perspiration by histamines. Parakeratosis of AD skin also decreases sweating by occluding sweat pores. Increased ceramide levels in the stratum corneum reduce parakeratosis by improving stratum corneum functions. Furthermore, ceramides and/or ceramide derivatives may affect claudin-3 and acetylcholine receptors.

OBJECTIVE

In this study, we investigated the efficacy of a moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract to increase ceramide levels in the epidermis to improve the sweating ability of patients with AD.

METHODS

Nineteen patients with AD applied moisturizers with or without pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract on the cubital fossa of either arm twice a day for 4 weeks. Skin conditions and sweating ability, measured as the response to acetylcholine stimulation, were evaluated prior to the start of the study (week 0) and at the end of weeks 2 and 4.

RESULTS

Both moisturizers improved the visually evaluated skin symptoms and skin hydration. However, only the moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and the eucalyptus extract significantly improved cutaneous barrier function and significantly increased the ceramide level in the stratum corneum. That moisturizer also increased the sweating volume and shortened the latency time for sweating, an indicator of sweating ability, but the other moisturizer did not.

CONCLUSION

Based on these results, the moisturizer containing pseudo-ceramide and a eucalyptus extract helps recover the sweat function of AD patients.

Ceramide NPs Derived from Natural Oils of Korean Traditional Plants Enhance Skin Barrier Functions and Stimulate Expressions of Genes for Epidermal Homeostasis

BACKGROUND

New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine(PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids AIMS: To investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.

METHODS

The expressions of genes related with epidermal differentiation was analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect of TEWL and SC cohesion.

RESULTS

The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14 and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.

CONCLUSION

Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.

Implications of surfactant hydrophobic chain architecture on the Surfactant-Skin lipid model interaction

Although surfactants have been widely used in skin care and other related applications, our knowledge about how surfactants interact with stratum corneum (SC) lipids remains limited. This work reports how surfactants interact with a lipid SC model by neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, focusing on examining the impact of surfactant molecular architecture. The surfactant-SC mixed membrane was constructed by an equimolar mixture of ceramide/cholesterol/fatty acids and surfactant at 1% molar ratio of total lipids. The arrangements of water and surfactant molecules in the membrane were obtained through neutron scattering length density (NSLD) profiles via contrast variation method, meanwhile, MD simulation clearly demonstrated the mechanism of hydration change in the surfactant-model SC mixed membrane. No drastic difference was detected in the repeating distance of the short periodicity phase (SPP) upon adding surfactants, however, it significantly enhanced the membrane hydration and reduced the amount of phase separated crystalline cholesterol, showing a strong dependence on surfactant chain length, branching and double bond. This work clearly demonstrates how surfactant architecture affects its interaction with the SC membrane, providing useful guidance for either choosing an existing surfactant or designing a new one for surfactant-based transdermal application.

Quantitative Structure-Activity Relationship of Enhancers of Licochalcone A and Glabridin Release and Permeation Enhancement from Carbomer Hydrogel

This study aimed to systematically compare licochalcone A (LicA) and glabridin (Gla) (whitening agents) release and permeation from Carbomer 940 (CP) hydrogels with different enhancers, and evaluate the relationship between the quantitative enhancement efficacy and structures of the enhancers. An in vitro release study and an in vitro permeation experiment in solution and hydrogels using porcine skin were performed. We found that the Gla–CP hydrogel showed a higher drug release and skin retention amount than LicA–CP due to the higher solubility in medium and better miscibility with the skin of Gla than that of LicA. Enhancers with a higher molecular weight (MW) and lower polarizability showed a higher release enhancement effect (ERrelease) for both LicA and Gla. The Van der Waals forces in the drug–enhancers–CP system were negatively correlated with the drug release percent. Moreover, enhancers with a higher log P and polarizability displayed a higher retention enhancement effect in solution (ERsolution retention) for LicA and Gla. Enhancers decreased the whole intermolecular forces indrug–enhancers-skin system, which had a linear inhibitory effect on the drug retention. Moreover, C=O of ceramide acted asthe enhancement site for drug permeation. Consequently, Transcutol® P (TP) and propylene glycol (PG), seven enhancers showed a higher retention enhancement effect in hydrogel (ERhydrogel retention) for LicA and Gla. Taken together, the conclusions provide a strategy for reasonable utilization of enhancers and formulation optimization in topical hydrogel whitening.

Ceramides in Skin Health and Disease: An Update

Ceramides are a class of sphingolipid that is the backbone structure for all sphingolipids, such as glycosphingolipids and phosphosphingolipids. While being a minor constituent of cellular membranes, ceramides are the major lipid component (along with cholesterol, free fatty acid, and other minor components) of the intercellular spaces of stratum corneum that forms the epidermal permeability barrier. These stratum corneum ceramides consist of unique heterogenous molecular species that have only been identified in terrestrial mammals. Alterations of ceramide molecular profiles are characterized in skin diseases associated with compromised permeability barrier functions, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and xerosis. In addition, hereditary abnormalities of some ichthyoses are associated with an epidermal unique ceramide species, omega-O-acylceramide. Ceramides also serve as lipid modulators to regulate cellular functions, including cell cycle arrest, differentiation, and apoptosis, and it has been demonstrated that changes in ceramide metabolism also cause certain diseases. In addition, ceramide metabolites, sphingoid bases, sphingoid base-1-phosphate and ceramide-1-phosphate are also lipid mediators that regulate cellular functions. In this review article, we describe diverse physiological and pathological roles of ceramides and their metabolites in epidermal permeability barrier function, epidermal cell proliferation and differentiation, immunity, and cutaneous diseases. Finally, we summarize the utilization of ceramides as therapy to treat cutaneous disease.

Effects of age, sex, and breed on the composition of free extractable ceramides in the stratum corneum of healthy dogs

Ceramide (CER), an important component of the extracellular lamellar lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), plays a critical role in maintaining the cutaneous barrier function. This study aimed to determine whether the quantity of free extractable SC CERs in dogs was affected by the age, sex, or breed. Fifty-eight dogs from the breeds Shiba Inu, beagle, miniature dachshund, shih tzu, and golden retriever, without any history of skin problems, were enrolled in this study. Lipid extracts from the SC were subjected to high-performance thin-layer chromatography to quantify the free extractable CERs. There were weak negative correlations between the age and the amount of free extractable CERs, CER [NP] (non-hydroxy fatty acids linked to phytosphingosines), CER [AS/NH] (α-hydroxy fatty acids linked to sphingosines/non-hydroxy fatty acids linked to 6-hydroxysphingosines), and CER [AP] (α-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines). There were no significant sex- or breed-related differences in the amounts of free extractable SC CERs in the dogs. These findings imply that aging causes a decline in the amount of free extractable SC CERs in dogs, similar to that observed in humans. The sex or breed of the dogs investigated in this study did not influence the amount of free extractable SC CERs.

Omega-3 carboxylic acids and fenofibrate differentially alter plasma lipid mediators in patients with non-alcoholic fatty liver disease

Fibrates and omega-3 polyunsaturated acids are used for the treatment of hypertriglyceridemia but have not demonstrated consistent effects on cardiovascular (CV) risk. In this study, we investigate how these two pharmacological agents influence plasma levels of bioactive lipid mediators, aiming to explore their efficacy beyond that of lipid-lowering agents. Plasma from overweight patients with non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD) and hypertriglyceridemia, participating in a randomized placebo-controlled study investigating the effects of 12 weeks treatment with fenofibrate or omega-3 free carboxylic acids (OM-3CA) (200 mg or 4 g per day, respectively), were analyzed for eicosanoids and related PUFA species, N-acylethanolamines (NAE) and ceramides. OM-3CA reduced plasma concentrations of proinflammatory PGE₂ , as well as PGE₁ , PGD₁ and thromboxane B2 but increased prostacyclin, and eicosapentaenoic acid- and docosahexaenoic acid-derived lipids of lipoxygenase and cytochrome P450 monooxygenase (CYP) (e.g., 17-HDHA, 18-HEPE, 19,20-DiHDPA). Fenofibrate reduced plasma concentrations of vasoactive CYP-derived eicosanoids (DHETs). Although OM-3CA increased plasma levels of the NAE docosahexaenoyl ethanolamine and docosapentaenoyl ethanolamine, and fenofibrate increased palmitoleoyl ethanolamine, the effect of both treatments may have been masked by the placebo (olive oil). Fenofibrate was more efficacious than OM-3CA in significantly reducing plasma ceramides, pro-inflammatory lipids associated with CV disease risk. Neither treatment affected putative lipid species associated with NAFLD. Our results show that OM-3CA and fenofibrate differentially modulate the plasma mediator lipidome, with OM-3CA promoting the formation of lipid mediators with potential effects on chronic inflammation, while fenofibrate mainly reducing ceramides. These findings suggest that both treatments could ameliorate chronic inflammation with possible impact on disease outcomes, independent of triglyceride reduction.

Effect of galactosylceramide on stratum corneum intercellular lipid synthesis in a three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), such as ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol (CHOL), contribute to the formation of stable lamellar structures in the SC, making them important for skin barrier function. β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect. GalCer promotes keratinocyte differentiation and increases CER production by increasing β-glucocerebrosidase (β-GCase) activity. However, few reports have described the mechanism of these effects, and detailed studies on the role of GalCer in intercellular lipid production in the SC have not been conducted. This study investigated the effect of GalCer on the metabolism and production of intercellular lipids in the SC in a three-dimensional cultured epidermis model. After reacting GalCer with a homogenate solution of three-dimensional cultured epidermis, GalCer was hardly metabolized. Treatment of the three-dimensional cultured epidermis with GalCer increased the expression of genes involved in the β-GCase metabolic pathway and promoted CER production. In addition, GalCer treatment reduced the expression of FFA metabolism-related genes as well as palmitic acid levels. In addition, transepidermal water loss, which is a barrier index, was reduced by GalCer treatment. These findings suggested that GalCer, which is hardly metabolized, affects the production of intercellular lipids in the SC and improves skin barrier function.

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β-Galactosylceramide (GalCer) is a glycosphingolipid that is used in some cosmetics and quasi-drugs in anticipation of a moisturizing effect.

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GalCer promoted ceramide production.

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GalCer improved transepidermal water loss, a barrier index.

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GalCer was hardly metabolized, and it affected the production of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum.

Lycoperoside H, a Tomato Seed Saponin, Improves Epidermal Dehydration by Increasing Ceramide in the Stratum Corneum and Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Effect

Tomatoes are widely consumed, however, studies on tomato seeds are limited. In this study, we isolated 11 compounds including saponins and flavonol glycosides from tomato seeds and evaluated their effects on epidermal hydration. Among the isolated compounds, tomato seed saponins (10 µM) significantly increased the mRNA expression of proteins related to epidermal hydration, including filaggrin, involucrin, and enzymes for ceramide synthesis, by 1.32- to 1.91-fold compared with the control in HaCaT cells. Tomato seed saponins (10 µM) also decreased transepidermal water loss by 7 to 13 g/m²·h in the reconstructed human epidermal keratinization (RHEK) models. Quantitative analysis of the ceramide content in the stratum corneum (SC) revealed that lycoperoside H (1–10 µM) is a promising candidate to stimulate ceramide synthesis via the upregulation of ceramide synthase-3, glucosylceramide synthase, and β-glucocerebrosidase, which led to an increase in the total SC ceramides (approximately 1.5-fold) in concert with ceramide (NP) (approximately 2-fold) in the RHEK models. Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects of lycoperoside H demonstrated that lycoperoside H is suggested to act as a partial agonist of the glucocorticoid receptor and exhibits anti-inflammatory effects (10 mg/kg in animal test). These findings indicate that lycoperoside H can improve epidermal dehydration and suppress inflammation by increasing SC ceramide and steroidal anti-inflammatory activity.

Lipid composition of the stratum corneum in different regions of the body of Kuhl's pipistrelle from the Negev Desert, Israel

The most superficial epidermal layer in endotherms is the stratum corneum (SC), which is composed of dead corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix with free fatty acids, cholesterol, ceramides, and cerebrosides; the lipid composition of the SC determines its permeability to water vapor. Lipids that are more polar, have longer hydrocarbon chains, and are less bulky are often packed in more ordered phase states to slow cutaneous evaporative water loss (CEWL); these lipids also resist transitions to more disordered phases at high ambient temperatures (T_a). In bats, wing and tail membranes (wing patagia and tail uropatagium, respectively) allow powered flight, but increase surface area, and hence CEWL, with implications for survival in arid environments. We captured Pipistrellus kuhlii from an arid habitat and measured the lipid composition of the SC of the plagiopatagium in the wing, the uropatagium, and the non-membranous region (NMR) of the body using thin layer chromatography and reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography coupled with atmospheric pressure photoionization mass spectrometry. The patagia contained more cholesterol and shorter-chained ceramides, and fewer cerebrosides than the NMR, indicating that the lipid phase transition temperature in the patagia is lower than in the NMR. Thus, at moderate T_a the lipids in the SC in all body regions will remain in an ordered phase state, allowing water conservation; but as T_a increases, the lipids in the SC of the patagia will more easily transition into a disordered phase, resulting in increased CEWL from the patagia facilitating efficient heat dissipation in hot environments.

The Pathogenic and Therapeutic Implications of Ceramide Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis

Ceramides play an essential role in forming a permeability barrier in the skin. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic skin disease associated with skin barrier dysfunction and immunological abnormalities. In patients with AD, the amount and composition of ceramides in the stratum corneum are altered. This suggests that ceramide abnormalities are involved in the pathogenesis of AD. The mechanism underlying lipid abnormalities in AD has not yet been fully elucidated, but the involvement of Th2 and Th1 cytokines is implicated. Ceramide-dominant emollients have beneficial effects on skin barrier function; thus, they have been approved as an adjunctive barrier repair agent for AD. This review summarizes the current understanding of the mechanisms of ceramide abnormalities in AD. Furthermore, the potential therapeutic approaches for correcting ceramide abnormalities in AD are discussed.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Physical-Chemical Characterization of CER[AP]: A Study of Stereochemistry and Chain Symmetry

The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Comprehensive Mouse Skin Ceramide Analysis on a Solid-Phase and TLC Separation with High-Resolution Mass Spectrometry Platform

Lipidomic analyses by mass spectrometry (MS) of epidermal ceramides, a large family of lipids crucial to the permeability barrier of the skin, have been reported previously. To ensure the accuracy of lipid identification, we describe here the isolation of mouse newborn epidermal lipids followed by fractionation with solid-phase extraction columns, and lipidomic analyses by high-resolution MS for structural identification. We also describe here the employment of thin layer chromatography, an old but useful tool, in facilitating the structural characterization of the epidermal lipid species by MS.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Decrease of ceramides with long-chain fatty acids in psoriasis: Possible inhibitory effect of interferon gamma on chain elongation

Reportedly, decreases in fatty acid (FA) chain length of ceramide (CER) are associated with interferon-γ (IFN-γ), which shows increased expression in psoriasis. However, the underlying mechanism of this association remains unclear. Therefore, in this study, we aimed to clarify this association between FA chain length of CER, IFN-γ, and the major transcriptional factors involving psoriasis. CER profiling according to FA chain length and class was performed in murine epidermis (n = 10 BALB/c mice topically treated with imiquimod, n = 10 controls) and human stratum corneum (SC) (n = 12 psoriasis, n = 11 controls). The expression of lipid synthetic enzymes, including elongases (ELOVLs), in murine epidermis was also measured using RT-PCR. Furthermore, the association of IFN-γ with various enzymes and transcription factors involved in the generation of long-chain CERs was also investigated using in vitro keratinocyte. A significant decrease in the percentage of long-chain CERs was observed in psoriasis-like murine epidermis and human psoriatic SC. Additionally, the expression levels of ELOVL1, ELOVL4, and ceramide synthase3 (CerS3) were significantly decreased in psoriasis-like murine epidermis and IFN-γ-treated keratinocyte. There was also a significant decrease in the expression of transcriptional factors, including peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR), in IFN-γ treated keratinocyte. Thus, it could be suggested that IFN-γ may regulate ELOVL and CerS levels by down-regulating the transcriptional factors. Additionally, given the possible involvement of PPARs or liver X receptor agonist in the CER elongation process, they may serve as potential therapeutic agents for lengthening the CER FAs in psoriasis.

Circulating ceramides as biomarkers of cardiovascular disease: Evidence from phenotypic and genomic studies

There is a need for new biomarkers of atherosclerotic cardiovascular disease (ACVD), the main cause of death globally. Ceramides, a class of potent bioactive lipid mediators, have signalling roles in apoptosis, cellular stress and inflammation. Recent studies have highlighted circulating ceramides as novel biomarkers of coronary artery disease, type-2 diabetes and insulin resistance. Ceramides are highly regulated by enzymatic reactions throughout the body in terms of their activity and metabolism, including production, degradation and transport. The genetic studies that have been completed to date on the main ceramide species found in circulation are described, highlighting the importance of DNA variants in genes involved in ceramide biosynthesis as key influencers of heritable, circulating ceramide levels. We also review studies of disease associations with ceramides and discuss mechanistic insights deriving from recent genomic studies. The signalling activities of ceramides in vascular inflammation and apoptosis, associations between circulating ceramides and coronary artery disease risk, type-2 diabetes and insulin resistance, and the potential importance of ceramides with regard to ACVD risk factors, such as blood pressure, lipoproteins and lifestyle factors, are also discussed.

Heritability and family-based GWAS analyses of the N-acyl ethanolamine and ceramide plasma lipidome

Signalling lipids of the N-acyl ethanolamine (NAE) and ceramide (CER) classes have emerged as potential biomarkers of cardiovascular disease (CVD). We sought to establish the heritability of plasma NAEs (including the endocannabinoid anandamide) and CERs, to identify common DNA variants influencing the circulating concentrations of the heritable lipids, and assess causality of these lipids in CVD using 2-sample Mendelian randomization (2SMR). Nine NAEs and 16 CERs were analyzed in plasma samples from 999 members of 196 British Caucasian families, using targeted ultra-performance liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry. All lipids were significantly heritable (h2 = 36-62%). A missense variant (rs324420) in the gene encoding the enzyme fatty acid amide hydrolase (FAAH), which degrades NAEs, associated at genome-wide association study (GWAS) significance (P < 5 × 10-8) with four NAEs (DHEA, PEA, LEA and VEA). For CERs, rs680379 in the SPTLC3 gene, which encodes a subunit of the rate-limiting enzyme in CER biosynthesis, associated with a range of species (e.g. CER[N(24)S(19)]; P = 4.82 × 10-27). We observed three novel associations between SNPs at the CD83, SGPP1 and DEGS1 loci, and plasma CER traits (P < 5 × 10-8). 2SMR in the CARDIoGRAMplusC4D cohorts (60 801 cases; 123 504 controls) and in the DIAGRAM cohort (26 488 cases; 83 964 controls), using the genetic instruments from our family-based GWAS, did not reveal association between genetically determined differences in CER levels and CVD or diabetes. Two of the novel GWAS loci, SGPP1 and DEGS1, suggested a casual association between CERs and a range of haematological phenotypes, through 2SMR in the UK Biobank, INTERVAL and UKBiLEVE cohorts (n = 110 000-350 000).

β-Sitosterol 3-O-D-glucoside increases ceramide levels in the stratum corneum via the up-regulated expression of ceramide synthase-3 and glucosylceramide synthase in a reconstructed human epidermal keratinization model

β-Sitosterol 3-O-d-glucoside (BSG) is known to act as an agonist by binding to estrogen receptors, and estrogen has been reported to enhance the activity of β-glucocerebrosidase, an epidermal ceramide metabolizing enzyme. In this study, we determined whether BSG up-regulates ceramide levels in the stratum corneum (SC) of a reconstructed human epidermal keratinization (RHEK) model. Treatment with BSG significantly increased the total ceramide content by 1.2-fold compared to that in the control in the SC of the RHEK model, accompanied by a significant increase of the ceramide species, Cer[EOS] by 2.1-fold compared to that in the control. RT-PCR analysis demonstrated that BSG significantly up-regulated the mRNA expression levels of serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT)2, ceramide synthase (CerS)3, glucosylceramide synthase (GCS) and acid sphingomyelinase by 1.41-1.89, 1.35-1.44, 1.19 and 2.06-fold, respectively, compared to that in the control in the RHEK model. Meanwhile, BSG significantly down-regulated the mRNA expression levels of sphingomyelin synthase (SMS)2 by 0.87-0.89-fold. RT-PCR analysis also demonstrated that BSG significantly up-regulated the mRNA expression levels of CerS3 and GCS by 1.19-1.55 and 1.20-fold, respectively, but not of SPT2 and significantly down-regulated that of SMS2 by 0.74-fold in HaCaT keratinocytes. Western blotting analysis revealed that BSG significantly increased the protein expression levels of CerS3 and GCS by 1.78 and 1.28-1.32-fold, respectively, compared to that in the control in HaCaT cells. These findings indicate that BSG stimulates ceramide synthesis via the up-regulated expression levels of CerS3 and GCS in the glucosylceramide pathway, which results in a significantly increased level of total ceramides in the SC accompanied by significantly increased levels of acylceramide species such as Cer[EOS].

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

Chiral 4-O-acylterpineol as transdermal permeation enhancers: insights of the enhancement mechanisms of a transdermal enantioselective delivery system for flurbiprofen

In order to devise more effective penetration enhancers, 4-O-acylterpineol derivatives which were expected to be hydrolyzed into nontoxic metabolites by esterase in the living epidermis, were synthesized from 4-terpineol (4-TER) enantiomers and straight chain fatty acids. Their promoting activities on the SR-flurbiprofen and its enantiomers were tested across full-thickness rabbit skin, as well as to correlate under in vitro and in vivo conditions. The permeation studies indicated that both d-4-O-acylterpineol and l-4-O-acylterpineol had significant enhancing effects, interestingly, d-4-O-aclyterpineol had higher enhancing effects than l-4-O-aclyterpineol with the exception of d-4-methyl-1-(1-methylethyl)-3-cyclohexen-1-yl octadec-9-enoate (d-4-T-dC18). The mechanism of 4-O-acylterpineol facilitating the drug penetration across the skin was confirmed by Attenuated total reflection-Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) and molecular simulation. The mechanism of penetration enhancers promoting drug release was explored by the in vitro release experiment. Finally, a relative safety skin irritation of enhancers was also investigated by in vivo histological evaluation. The present research suggested that d-4-O-aclyterpineol and l-4-O-aclyterpineol could significantly promote the penetration of SR-flurbiprofen and its enantiomers both in vitro and in vivo, with the superiorities of high flux and low dermal toxicity.