Infrared kinetic/structural studies of barrier reformation in intact stratum corneum following thermal perturbation

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

FT-IR investigation of Terbinafine interaction with stratum corneum constituents

Terbinafine (Tbf) is a well-established anti-fungal agent used for management of a variety of dermal conditions including ringworm and athlete's foot. Both the biochemical mechanism of Tbf fungicidal action (based on squalene epoxidase inhibition) and the target region for Tbf in vivo (the stratum corneum (SC)) are well determined. However, the biochemical and pharmacokinetic approaches used to evaluate Tbf biochemistry provide no biophysical information about molecular level physical changes in the SC upon Tbf binding. Such information is necessary for improved drug and formulation design. IR spectroscopic methods were used to evaluate the effects of Tbf on keratin structure in environments commonly used in pharmaceutics to mimic those in vivo. The Amide I and II spectral regions (1500-1700 cm^-1) provided an effective means to monitor keratin secondary structure changes, while a Tbf spectral feature near 775 cm^-1 provides a measure of relative Tbf levels in skin. Interaction of Tbf with the SC induced substantial β-sheet formation in the keratin, an effect which was partially reversed both by ethanol washing and by exposure to high relative humidity. The irreversibility suggests the presence of a Tbf reservoir (consistent with kinetic studies), permitting the drug to be released in a controlled manner into the surrounding tissue.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.

The impact of surface loading and dosing scheme on the skin uptake of fragrances

This study compared the skin uptake of γ-undecalactone, decanol, and dodecyl acetate in an in vitro, un-occluded penetration assay in which they were applied to porcine skin at different finite loadings and application schemes. The pattern of fractional uptake differed between the chemicals and did not show the often assumed inverse correlation with surface loading. Furthermore, the mass uptake of identical cumulative amounts of the chemicals was not always additive. These results show that the uptake of fragrances in absence of occlusion and at finite loadings is chemical-specific and depends on the surface loading, the application scheme, and most probably, on the effects of the chemicals on the skin barrier efficiency. The observed lack of additivity might explain some of the differences in the responses observed in patch and repeated open application tests, and the boosting of the allergic state in sensitized individuals by sub-clinical exposures.

Oleic acid disorders stratum corneum lipids in Langmuir monolayers

Oleic acid (OA) is well-known to affect the function of the skin barrier. In this study, the molecular interactions between OA and model stratum corneum (SC) lipids consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and palmitic acid (PA) were investigated with Langmuir monolayer and associated techniques. Mixtures with different OA/SC lipid compositions were spread at the air/water interface, and the phase behavior was tracked with surface pressure-molecular area (π-A) isotherms. With increasing OA levels in the monolayer, the films became more fluid and more compressible. The thermodynamic parameters derived from π-A isotherms indicated that there are preferential interactions between OA and SC lipids and that films of their mixtures were thermodynamically stable. The domain structure and lipid conformational order of the monolayers were studied through Brewster angle microscopy (BAM) and infrared reflection absorption spectroscopy (IRRAS), respectively. Results indicate that lower concentrations of OA preferentially mix with and disorder the ceramide-enriched domains, followed by perturbation of the PA-enriched domains and disruption of SC lipid domain separation at higher OA levels.

Activation of TRPV4 strengthens the tight-junction barrier in human epidermal keratinocytes

The transient receptor potential cation channel, subfamily V (TRPV), is expressed in the epidermis and considered to be a sensor of extrinsic stimuli such as temperature and other physical or chemical factors. In this study, we examined whether or not the activation of TRPVs by their agonists alters the epidermal tight junction (TJ) function in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) analyses showed that mRNA for TRPV1, 3 and 4 were expressed in differentiated keratinocytes in which TJs had formed. Stimulation of the keratinocytes with a TRPV4 agonist (4α-phorbol 12, 13-didecanoate, 4α-PDD) strengthened the TJ-associated barrier, analyzed by means of transepithelial electric resistance measurements and flux measurements of the paracellular tracer. Stimulation with TRPV1 and TRPV3 agonists did not have the same result. Simultaneously, the 4α-PDD-stimulated keratinocytes showed an upregulation of TJ structural proteins, occludin and claudin-4, and TJ regulatory factors, phospho-atypical PKCζ/ι. It was also observed that the amounts of occludin and phospho-atypical PKCζ/ι complex were higher in 4α-PDD stimulated keratinocytes. In conclusion, we demonstrated that the activation of TRPV4 strengthened the TJ-associated barrier of epidermal cells. It was also suggested that the upregulation of TJ structural proteins and/or the posttranslational modification of TJ structural proteins by phospho-atypical PKCζ/ι are responsible for the enhancement of TJ function. Our study supports the hypothesis that TJs change their function in response to a change in the external environment sensed through TRPVs.

Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity

Surfactants in skin cleansers interact with the skin in several manners. In addition to the desired benefit of providing skin hygiene, surfactants also extract skin components during cleansing and remain in the stratum corneum (SC) after rinsing. These side effects disrupt SC structure and degrade its barrier properties. Recent applications of vibrational spectroscopy and two-photon microscopy in skin research have provided molecular-level information to facilitate our understanding of the interaction between skin and surfactant. In the arena of commercial skin cleansers, technologies have been developed to produce cleansers that both cleanse and respect skin barrier. The main approach is to minimize surfactant interaction with skin through altering its solution properties. Recently, hydrophobically modified polymers (HMPs) have been introduced to create skin compatible cleansing systems. At the presence of HMP, surfactants assemble into larger, more stable structures. These structures are less likely to penetrate the skin, thereby resulting in less aggressive cleansers and the integrity of the skin barrier is maintained. In this paper, we reviewed our recent findings on surfactant and SC interactions at molecular level and provided an overview of the HM technology for developing cleansers that respect skin barrier.

Imaging the distribution of sodium dodecyl sulfate in skin by confocal Raman and infrared microspectroscopy

Purpose

To image SDS distribution across different skin regions, to compare the permeability difference between porcine and human skin, and to evaluate the interaction between SDS and skin.

Methods

Full thickness porcine and human skin was treated with acyl chain perdeuterated SDS (SDS-d₂₅) at room temperature and at 34 °C for 3, 24 and 40 h. SDS distribution in skin was monitored by confocal Raman and IR microspectroscopic imaging. Permeation profiles of SDS-d₂₅ in skin were derived from the band intensities of the CD₂ stretching vibrations. The interaction between SDS and skin was monitored through the CH₂ and CD₂ stretching frequencies and the Amide I and II spectral region.

Results

SDS-d₂₅ penetrates both porcine and human skin in a time and temperature-dependent manner, with slightly higher permeability through the stratum corneum (SC) in porcine skin. When SDS permeates into the SC, its chains are more ordered compared to SDS micelles. The secondary structure of keratin in the SC is not affected by SDS-d₂₅.

Conclusion

The spatial distribution of SDS-d₂₅ in skin was obtained for the first time. Infrared microscopic imaging provides unique opportunities to measure concentration profiles of exogenous materials in skin and offers insights to interaction between permeants and skin.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1007/s11095-012-0748-y) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Application of bicellar systems on skin: diffusion and molecular organization effects

The effect of bicelles formed by dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC)/dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) on stratum corneum (SC) lipids was studied by attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy at different temperatures. Analysis of the lipid organization in terms of chain conformational order and lateral packing shows that the use of bicelles hampers the fluidification of SC lipids with temperature and leads to a lateral packing corresponding to a stable hexagonal phase. Grazing incidence small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirm these results and give evidence of higher lamellar order after treatment with these bicelles. Additionally, the effects of DPPC/DHPC and dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC)/DHPC bicelles at different SC depths were compared. The combination of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and the tape-stripping method was very useful for this purpose.

Conformational changes in stratum corneum lipids by effect of bicellar systems

Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy was applied to study the effects of the bicelles formed by dimyristoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DMPC) and dihexanoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DHPC) in porcine stratum corneum (SC) in vitro. A comparison of skin samples treated and untreated with bicelles at different temperatures was carried out. The analysis of variations after treatment in the position of the symmetric CH2 stretching, CH2 scissoring, and CH2 rocking vibrations reported important information about the effect of bicelles on the skin. Bicellar systems caused a phase transition from the gel or solid state to the liquid crystalline state in the lipid conformation of SC, reflecting the major order-disorder transition from hexagonally packed to disordered chains. Grazing incidence small and wide X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirmed this effect of bicelles on the SC. These results are probably related to with the permeabilizing effect previously described for the DMPC/DHPC bicelles.

Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is useful in investigating the lateral organization of Stratum corneum (SC) lipids in full-thickness skin. Based on studies of the thermotropic phase transitions in n-tricosane and in excised human skin, the temperature dependence of the CH2 scissoring bandwidth emerged as a measure of the extent of orthorhombic and hexagonal phases. This dependence provides a simpler measure of the lateral order in lipid assemblies than the common spectroscopic approaches based on difference spectra, curve fitting of the CH2 scissoring region, and the position of the CH2 stretching vibrations. It has the advantages of ease of determination, relatively low variability, and high discriminative power for the type of lateral intermolecular chain packing. A comparison of the lateral organization of the lipids at the SC surface of mammalian skin using the scissoring bandwidth revealed considerable differences between human abdominal skin (containing mostly orthorhombic phases), porcine ear skin (containing mostly hexagonal phases), and reconstructed human epidermis (containing mostly disordered phases). This parameter also correctly described the different effects of propylene glycol (minimally disturbing) and oleic acid (formation of a highly disordered phase) on the SC lipids in excised human skin. The procedure described here is applicable to in vivo studies in the areas of dermatology, transdermal drug delivery, and skin biophysics.