Brown Pine Leaf Extract and Its Active Component Trans-Communic Acid Inhibit UVB-Induced MMP-1 Expression by Targeting PI3K

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Anti-Photoaging Activity of Scutellaria barbata D. Don (Family Lamiaceae) on Ultraviolet B-Irradiated NIH-3T3 Skin Fibroblast and SKH-1 Hairless Mouse

We investigated whether Scutellaria barbata D. Don (Family Lamiaceae) (SBD), a traditional medicine used for heat clearing and detoxification, possesses antiphotoaging properties. Pretreatment of NIH-3T3 skin fibroblast cells with non-toxicological levels of water extract of SBD (WESBD) and ethanol extract of SBD (EESBD) restored the expression of procollagen type-1 (COL1A1), matrix metalloproteinase-1a (MMP-1a), interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8), and monocyte chemotactic protein-3 (MCP-3) genes following abnormal expression induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation. WESBD/EESBD administration to the dorsal skin area of hairless mice significantly (p < 0.05) inhibited UVB-induced wrinkle formation and epidermal thickness. The WESBD and EESBD treatments also restored the dermal collagen content, which was decreased by the UVB treatment, and normal COL1A1 and MMP-1a expression. Interestingly, both the WESBD and EESBD pretreatments significantly attenuated UVB-induced phosphorylation of protein kinase B (AKT) but not that of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs). This finding indicates that the antiphotoaging effects of WESBD and EESBD may be related to attenuation of UVB-induced overactivation of AKT phosphorylation. High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and mass spectrometry analysis revealed that isorhamentin and scutebarbatine I were major single components of EESBD. These results suggest that WESBD and EESBD may have potential in development as antiphotoaging agents.

Are TRPA1 and TRPV1 channel-mediated signalling cascades involved in UVB radiation-induced sunburn?

Burn injuries are underappreciated injuries associated with substantial morbidity and mortality. Overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation has dramatic clinical effects in humans and is a significant public health concern. Although the mechanisms underlying UVB exposure are not fully understood, many studies have made substantial progress in the pathophysiology of sunburn in terms of its molecular aspects in the last few years. It is well established that the transient receptor potential ankyrin 1 (TRPA1), and vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) channels modulate the inflammatory, oxidative, and proliferative processes underlying UVB radiation exposure. However, it is still unknown which mechanisms underlying TRPV1/A1 channel activation are elicited in sunburn induced by UVB radiation. Therefore, in this review, we give an overview of the TRPV1/A1 channel-mediated signalling cascades that may be involved in the pathophysiology of sunburn induced by UVB radiation. These data will undoubtedly help to explain the various features of sunburn and contribute to the development of novel therapeutic approaches to better treat it.

Skin Aging, Cellular Senescence and Natural Polyphenols

The skin, being the barrier organ of the body, is constitutively exposed to various stimuli impacting its morphology and function. Senescent cells have been found to accumulate with age and may contribute to age-related skin changes and pathologies. Natural polyphenols exert many health benefits, including ameliorative effects on skin aging. By affecting molecular pathways of senescence, polyphenols are able to prevent or delay the senescence formation and, consequently, avoid or ameliorate aging and age-associated pathologies of the skin. This review aims to provide an overview of the current state of knowledge in skin aging and cellular senescence, and to summarize the recent in vitro studies related to the anti-senescent mechanisms of natural polyphenols carried out on keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts. Aged skin in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic will be also discussed.

Dehydroabietic Acid Microencapsulation Potential as Biofilm-Mediated Infections Treatment

The antimicrobial activity of dehydroabietic acid (DHA) for its use as an antibiofilm agent was tested in this work. DHA was assayed against a collection of Gram-positive, Gram-negative sensitive and resistant bacteria and yeasts through the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), MIC with Bioburden challenge, minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC), minimum biofilm inhibitory concentration (MBIC), MBIC with Bioburden challenge and growth curve studies. Toxicological studies (Artemia salina, sulforhodamine B (SRB) assay) were done to assess if the compound had antimicrobial and not cytotoxic properties. Furthermore, microencapsulation and stability studies were carried out to evaluate the chemical behavior and stability of DHA. On MIC results, Gram-positive bacteria Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 1228 and Mycobacterium smegmatis ATCC 607 presented a high efficiency (7.81 µg/mL), while on Gram-negative bacteria the highest MIC value of 125 µg/mL was obtained by all Klebsiella pneumoniae strains and Escherichia coli isolate strain HSM 303. Bioburden challenge showed that MIC, MBIC and percentage biofilm inhibition (BI) values suffered alterations, therefore, having higher concentrations. MBIC values demonstrated that DHA has a higher efficiency against S. aureus ATCC 43866 with a percentage of BI of 75.13 ± 0.82% at 0.49 µg/mL. Growth curve kinetic profiles of DHA against S. aureus ATCC 25923 were observed to be bacteriostatic. DHA-alginate beads had a average size of 2.37 ± 0.20 and 2.31 ± 0.17 × 10³ µm² with an encapsulation efficiency (EE%) around 99.49 ± 0.05%, a protection percentage (PP%) of 60.00 ± 0.05% in the gastric environment and a protection efficiency (PE%) around 88.12 ± 0.05% against UV light. In toxicological studies DHA has shown IC₅₀ of 19.59 ± 7.40 µg/mL and a LC₅₀ of 21.71 ± 2.18%. The obtained results indicate that DHA is a promising antimicrobial candidate against a wide range of bacteria and biofilm formation that must be further explored.

Antiphotoaging Potential of Extracts of Yin-Tonic Herbal Medicine in Skin Cell and Human Skin Equivalent

Yin-tonic herbal medicines have been shown to possess properties that make skin healthy by nourishing within various organs of the body. However, the antiphotoaging effect of these medicines on the skin has not been fully studied. Photoaging occurs with prolonged sun exposure and causes skin damage and aging, with depletion of the dermal extracellular matrix and chronic alterations in skin structure, such as wrinkles. In this study, we assessed the antiphotoaging effects of eight yin-tonic herbal medicines on human skin cells and skin equivalents. The levels of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B- (UVB-) irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts were measured, and then three medicines were chosen based on screening results. Using UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents, we evaluated the effect of three yin-tonic herbal medicines on histological changes of skin, epidermal and dermal thickness, and MMP-1 production. Furthermore, we observed collagen fiber content and protein expression of filaggrin in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Yin-tonic herbal medicines increased type I procollagen levels and decreased the production of MMP-1 in UVB-irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts. The three selected yin-tonic herbal medicines recovered the collagen content and filaggrin expression via MMP-1 downregulation in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Our results show that yin-tonic herbal medicines can prevent skin photoaging by reduction of MMP-1 levels and increasing the expression of moisturizing factors. Based on these results, we suggest that yin-tonic herbal medicines have the potential to be used as helpful agent for skin photoaging.

Dehydroabietic Acid Induces Regeneration of Collagen Fibers in Ultraviolet B-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Skin Equivalents

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Dehydroabietic acid (DAA) is a natural phytochemical found in red pine trees and herbal plants. While DAA and its derivatives are known for improving diabetes and hyperlipidemia, the antiaging effect and its underlying mechanisms of DAA on skin have not been fully examined. Here, we assessed the antiaging effects of DAA on human dermal fibroblasts and skin equivalents.

METHODS

We investigated the effect of DAA on the secretion of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated neonatal normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFn). Using nonlinear optical imaging techniques, we visualized quantitative and qualitative changes of collagen fibers by DAA treatment in human skin equivalent models.

RESULTS

DAA induces increases in type I procollagen secretion when treated on UVB-irradiated NHDFn. DAA also downregulates secretion of MMP-1 through the inhibition of the JNK signaling pathway. In human skin equivalent models, we successfully visualized the spatial distribution of collagen fibers in the dermis and found that quantity, diameter, and arrangement of collagen fibers in the dermis were significantly improved by DAA treatment.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggest that DAA could be a useful agent for improving skin photoaging through the protection and regeneration of collagen fibers in skin.

Collagenase inhibition by water-pepper (Polygonum hydropiper L.) sprout extract

Introduction: Collagenase plays an important role in the degradation of dermal matrix proteins leading to wrinkle formation. The objectives of this study were to evaluate the inhibitory effect of water-pepper (Polygonum hydropiper L.) sprout extract on the activity of collagenase and to identify the inhibitory compounds.Methods: Collagenase inhibitory activity was measured by spectrophotometric assay. Activity-guided fractionation was performed using liquid-liquid extraction of water and n-butanol and Diaion HP-20 column chromatography, followed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) fraction collection.Results: A methanolic extract of water-pepper sprout inhibited collagenase activity in a concentration-dependent manner with an IC50 value of 156.7 μg/mL. Collagenase inhibitory activity (IC50 = 23.5 μg/mL) was found in 50% methanol eluate from the HP-20 column chromatography of the n-butanol soluble fraction. The active compound (IC50 = 1.9 μg/mL) in the eluate was isolated by HPLC and identified as quercetin-3-O-galactoside (hyperoside) from comparing retention time, UV-Vis absorption, and mass spectra with those of the standard. Lineweaver-Burk plots revealed that hyperoside was an uncompetitive inhibitor against collagenase. Hyperoside was also the most abundant flavonoid present in the methanolic extract.Conclusion: These results suggest that water-pepper sprouts could be beneficial as a natural source of collagenase inhibitor which might be used for the treatment of skin aging.

Functional recovery in photo-damaged human dermal fibroblasts by human adipose-derived stem cell extracellular vesicles

Ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation causes imbalance between dermal matrix synthesis and degradation through aberrant upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which leads to overall skin photoaging. We investigated the effects of extracellular vesicles (EVs) derived from human adipose-derived stem cells (HASCs) on photo-damaged human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). EVs were isolated from conditioned media of HASCs with tangential flow filtration and characterized using transmission electron microscopy (TEM), nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA), western blotting, micro RNA (miRNA) arrays, cytokine arrays and liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The effects of EVs on the UVB-irradiated HDFs were evaluated using scratch assay, ELISA and real-time PCR. Microarrays exhibited that EVs are rich in various miRNAs and proteins, and that these EV contents are linked to a broad range of biological functions, including fibroblast proliferation, UV protection, collagen biosynthesis, DNA repair and cell ageing. A scratch assay showed that HASC-EVs enhanced the migration ability of UVB-irradiated HDFs. Real-time RT-PCR and ELISA analyses revealed that the HASC-derived EVs significantly suppressed the overexpression of MMP-1, -2, -3 and -9 induced by UVB irradiation and enhanced the expression of collagen types I, II, III and V and elastin. In particular, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP)-1 and transforming growth factor (TGF)-β1, which are important factors involved in MMP suppression and ECM synthesis, were upregulated in EV-treated HDFs after UVB irradiation. Overall results suggest that diverse components that are enriched in HASC-derived EVs could act as a biochemical cue for recovery from skin photoaging.

Gallotannin Improves the Photoaged-Related Proteins by Extracellular Signal-Regulated Kinases/c-Jun N-Terminal Kinases Signaling Pathway in Human Epidermal Keratinocyte Cells

Tannins are a type of polyphenols found in several fruits such as grapes and berries, and nuts such as aronias and acorns. Both hydrolyzable tannins and condensed tannins are referred to as tannins. Among the hydrolyzable tannins, gallotannin has a strong antioxidative property and is known to protect the skin by inhibiting the precursors of elastolytic enzymes. However, its mechanism of protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) damage in human fibroblasts and keratinocytes has not yet been elucidated. In this study, we investigate the antioxidant and antiaging effect of gallotannin on UVB-irradiated human cells by studying its effect on extracellular signal-regulated kinases/c-Jun N-terminal kinases (EKRs/JNKs) signaling related to cell growth and differentiation/stress apoptosis. The results showed that gallotannin improved collagen synthesis, reduced metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in a dose-dependent manner, and downregulated MMP-1 levels through the ERK/JNK signaling pathway in UVB-irradiated human cells. Gallotannin also increased glutathione but did not increase transforming growth factor beta 1, which induces fibrosis. We propose that gallotannin is a novel agent for protection against UVB, and acts as an antiaging agent that can be used in food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics.

Inhibitory effects of resveratrol on hepatitis B virus X protein-induced hepatocellular carcinoma

Liver cancer occurs very frequently worldwide and hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC) accounts for more than 80% of total primary liver cancer cases. In this study, the anticarcinogenic effects of resveratrol against hepatitis B virus (HBV)-induced HCC were investigated by using HBV X-protein-overexpressing Huh7 (Huh7-HBx) human hepatoma cells. MTT assay showed that resveratrol decreased cell viability. Fluorescence-activated cell-sorter analysis showed that resveratrol induced G1 cell cycle arrest without increasing the sub-G1 phase cell population. Therefore, we evaluated its effect on regulation of cyclin D1, which is critically involved in G1/S transition. Resveratrol lowered cyclin D1 transcription. Western blot analysis of the effects of resveratrol on upstream cyclin D1 transcriptional signaling, extracellular signal-related kinase (ERK), p90^RSK, Akt, and p70^S6K revealed inhibition of Akt but not the ERK signaling pathway. Collectively, the results indicate that resveratrol inhibits Huh7-HBx proliferation by decreasing cyclin D1 expression through blockade of Akt signaling. We investigated the anticarcinogenic effect and mechanism of resveratrol in xenograft model mice implanted with Huh7-HBx cells. Intraperitoneal resveratrol injection reduced tumor size in the mice. Expression of survivin was reduced, but cyclin D1 was not affected. The results demonstrate that resveratrol treatment may help manage HBV-induced HCC by regulating survivin.

Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging

Skin is continuously exposed to a variety of environmental stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVB is an inherent component of sunlight that crosses the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis, leading to increased oxidative stress, activation of inflammatory response and accumulation of DNA damage among other effects. The increase in UVB radiation on earth due to the destruction of stratospheric ozone poses a major environmental threat to the skin, increasing the risk of damage with long-term consequences, such as photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Extracts from plants and natural compounds have been historically used in traditional medicine in the form of teas and ointments but the effect of most of these compounds has yet to be verified. Regarding the increasing concern of the population with issues related to quality of life and appearance, the cosmetic market for anti-aging and photoprotective products based on natural compounds is continuously growing, and there is increasing requirement of expansion on research in this field. In this review we summarized the most current and relevant information concerning plant extracts and natural compounds that are able to protect or mitigate the deleterious effects caused by photoaging in different experimental models.

The Ginsenoside Derivative 20(S)-Protopanaxadiol Inhibits Solar Ultraviolet Light-Induced Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 Expression

Ginsenosides are major pharmacologically active compounds present in ginseng (Panax ginseng). Among the ginsenosides, 20-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-20(S)-protopanaxadiol (GPPD) and ginsenoside Rb1 (Rb1) have previously been reported to exhibit anti-wrinkle effects. In this study, 20(S)-protopanaxadiol (20(S)-PPD), an aglycone derivative of the Rb1 metabolite was investigated for its anti-wrinkle benefit and compared to GPPD and Rb1. The anti-wrinkle effect of 20(S)-PPD during solar UV light was investigated using a human skin equivalent model and human keratinocytes. 20(S)-PPD attenuated solar UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression to a greater extent than GPPD and Rb1. 20(S)-PPD treatment modulated MMP-1 mRNA expression and the transcriptional activity of activator protein (AP)-1, a major transcription factor of MMP-1. Two upstream signaling pathways for AP-1, the MEK1/2-ERK1/2-p90^RSK and MEK3/6-p38 pathways, were also suppressed. Taken together, these findings highlight the potential of 20(S)-PPD for further development as a preventative agent for sunlight-induced skin wrinkle. J. Cell. Biochem. 118: 3756-3764, 2017. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review

Besides the unquestionable positive effects of solar exposure for human health, UV rays have been widely investigated for toxicology aspects related to excessive UVB and UVA doses, which involve sunburns, skin aging, DNA skin damage and tumorigenesis. At present, synthetic and mineral sunscreens are used to protect against these damages but several natural molecules can provide UV protection, including also synergic effect or enhanced photo stability. Although a large number of herbal extracts and plant origin molecules can deserve potential applications, most of the study reported utilizes different method and different strategies of investigation, making thus difficult to understand the real versus claimed potential. This is possibly one of the reasons why, beside the large body of literature there are no officially approved natural commercial sun-filter but a consistent number of commercially available solar products (sunscreen) on the market that contain herbal derivatives. In this review we have evaluated the papers appeared in the last 15years and we have critically collected the most significant data. Several databases, namely Scifinder, Pubmed, Google Scholar, ISI-Web of Science and Scopus, were used as literature sources; excluding patents and symposium or congress papers. Only articles in the English language have been selected. New formulation, new skin delivery systems, skin penetration enhancers and boosters are most likely the next frontier of investigation in order to better understand the role of whole herbal extracts in exerting their photo protective activity.

Acceleration of Collagen Breakdown by Extracellular Basic pH in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Wound healing is a complex regeneration process involving the degradation and reassembly of connective tissues and skin layers. Previous studies have shown that pH plays a significant role in both the direct and indirect regulation of cellular processes in the wound, which, in turn, affect the wound healing process. However, the effects of pH on the collagen breakdown component of wound healing have yet to be investigated. Therefore, we investigated the induction of accelerated collagen breakdown by pH imbalance in the skin.

METHODS

Na+/H+ exchanger and metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 were analyzed spectrophotometrically, and the expression of collagen type-I-alpha-1 (COL1A1) and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) was measured by Western blotting.

RESULTS

Accelerated collagen breakdown induced by extracellular basic pH via the overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and MAPK signaling was examined in skin fibroblasts and in a three-dimensional human skin equivalent system. Basic pH (>7.50) upregulated MMP-1 and downregulated COL1A1 levels via ROS generation and MAPK signaling pathways. Acidic pH (<6.04) slightly upregulated MMP-1 and slightly downregulated COL1A1 levels via ROS generation and the p38 signaling pathway.

CONCLUSION

Our results indicate that skin pH is an important effector of collagen formation in wound healing. This finding will aid in the development of new pH-targeted therapeutic strategies.