Diversity in human hair growth, diameter, colour and shape. An in vivo study on young adults from 24 different ethnic groups observed in the five continents

A consumer cross-over trial suggests that there are significant seasonal changes of the tensile properties (wet) of human hair

OBJECTIVES

Through the cooperation with an industrial partner, we gained a set of data for the tensile properties (wet) of human hair. The hair samples originated from a cross-over study with two groups of individuals, using for a topical application sequentially two products (A and B). Each phase of the study lasted 6 months. The phases of the study by chance covered first largely the winter and then the summer period. Initially, tensile variables were chosen, which not only reflect the mechanical properties of hair (modulus, break strain, and break stress) but which are also considered to have a good connection to practice-relevant hair properties. The initial analysis of the data showed that changes were observed for the variables due to the treatment phases. However, these were either small or difficult to interpret.

METHODS

Against this background and using two-factor analysis of variance, we investigated the hypothesis that the tensile properties of hair (wet) may show significant seasonal changes. For this, we chose those two independent variables, which reflect the properties of the intermediate filaments (modulus) and the matrix (break strain) in the composite structure of the hair cortex.

RESULTS

The results support the 'seasonal' hypothesis and clearly show that the variables show significant changes from Winter to Summer (modulus: 10% increase; break strain: 3% decrease). The seasonal effect was thus a major reason, why the first stage of the analysis of the data was inconclusive.

CONCLUSIONS

The tensile properties of the main morphological components of the cortex show distinct seasonal changes. Towards the summer, the hair becomes stiffer and more brittle. Furthermore, the results suggest that seasonal effects may need to be taken into account when conducting studies on lengths of hair grown during different seasons.

Therapeutic drug monitoring of corticosteroids/β2-agonists in the hair of patients with asthma: an open-label feasibility study

Background: Although adherence to inhaled medication is critically important for treatment efficiency, around half of patients taking these drugs are non-adherent or make critical errors when using their delivery device. Segmental hair analysis might be a valuable tool for therapeutic monitoring because hair concentrations reflect exposure from month to month. The objective of the present proof-of-concept study was to establish the feasibility of segmental hair analysis of inhaled budesonide and formoterol in asthma patients. Methods: We conducted a prospective, open-label, interventional study of adult patients being treated with budesonide/formoterol for controlled, moderate-to-severe asthma (CorticHair, NCT03691961). Asthma control, lung function, and medication adherence were recorded. Hair samples were taken 4 months after enrolment and cut into four 1 cm segments. Results: Samples were available from 21 patients (20 women; median age: 53; median budesonide dose: 600 μg/d). Budesonide and formoterol were detected in samples from 18 to 13 patients, respectively. The median hair concentrations were 6.25 pg/mg for budesonide and 0.9 pg/mg for formoterol. The intrapatient coefficient of variation between hair segments was 21% for budesonide and 40% for formoterol. Pearson's coefficients for the correlations between the hair concentration and the self-reported drug dose and the prescribed drug dose were respectively 0.42 (p = 0.08) and 0.29 (p = 0.25) for budesonide and 0.24 (p = 0.44) and 0.17 (p = 0.57) for formoterol. Conclusion: Segmental hair analysis of inhaled medications was feasible, with low intrapatient variability. This innovative, non-invasive means of assessing monthly drug exposure might help physicians to personalize drug regimens for patients with difficult-to-treat asthma.

Polarization properties and Umov effect of human hair

This study delves into the polarization properties of various hair colors using several techniques, including polarization ray tracing, full Stokes, and Mueller matrix imaging. Our analysis involved studying hair in both indoor and outdoor settings under varying lighting conditions. Our results demonstrate a strong correlation between hair color and the degree of linear polarization. Specifically, light-colored hair, such as white and blond, exhibits high albedo and low DoLP. In contrast, dark hair, like black and brown hair, has low albedo and high DoLP. Our research also revealed that a single hair strand displays high diattenuation near specular reflections but high depolarization in areas with diffuse reflections. Additionally, we investigated the wavelength dependency of the polarization properties by comparing the Mueller matrix under illumination at 450 nm and 589 nm. Our investigation demonstrates the impact of hair shade and color on polarization properties and the Umov effect.

Linear hair growth rates in preschool children

BACKGROUND

Human scalp hair is a validated bio-substrate for monitoring various exposures in childhood including contextual stressors, environmental toxins, prescription or non-prescription drugs. Linear hair growth rates (HGR) are required to accurately interpret hair biomarker concentrations.

METHODS

We measured HGR in a prospective cohort of preschool children (N = 266) aged 9-72 months and assessed demographic factors, anthropometrics, and hair protein content (HPC). We examined HGR differences by age, sex, race, height, hair pigment, and season, and used univariable and multivariable linear regression models to identify HGR-related factors.

RESULTS

Infants below 1 year (288 ± 61 μm/day) had slower HGR than children aged 2-5 years (p = 0.0073). Dark-haired children (352 ± 52 μm/day) had higher HGR than light-haired children (325 ± 50 μm/day; p = 0.0019). Asian subjects had the highest HGR overall (p = 0.016). Younger children had higher HPC (p = 0.0014) and their HPC-adjusted HGRs were slower than older children (p = 0.0073). Age, height, hair pigmentation, and HPC were related to HGR in multivariable regression models.

CONCLUSIONS

We identified age, height, hair pigment, and hair protein concentration as significant determinants of linear HGRs. These findings help explain the known hair biomarker differences between children and adults and aid accurate interpretation of hair biomarker results in preschool children.

IMPACT

Discovery of hair biomarkers in the past few decades has transformed scientific disciplines like toxicology, pharmacology, epidemiology, forensics, healthcare, and developmental psychology. Identifying determinants of hair growth in children is essential for accurate interpretation of hair biomarker results in pediatric clinical studies. Childhood hair growth rates define the time-periods of biomarker incorporation into growing hair, essential for interpreting the biomarkers associated with environmental exposures and the mind-brain-body connectome. Our study describes age-, sex-, and height-based distributions of linear hair growth rates and provides determinants of linear hair growth rates in a large population of children. Age, height, hair pigmentation, and hair protein content are determinants of hair growth rates and should be accounted for in child hair biomarkers studies. Our findings on hair protein content and linear hair growth rates may provide physiological explanations for differences in hair growth rates and biomarkers in preschool children as compared to adults.

Siloxane Emissions and Exposures during the Use of Hair Care Products in Buildings

Cyclic volatile methyl siloxanes (cVMS) are ubiquitous in hair care products (HCPs). cVMS emissions from HCPs are of concern, given the potential adverse impact of siloxanes on the environment and human health. To characterize cVMS emissions and exposures during the use of HCPs, realistic hair care experiments were conducted in a residential building. Siloxane-based HCPs were tested using common hair styling techniques, including straightening, curling, waving, and oiling. VOC concentrations were measured via proton-transfer-reaction time-of-flight mass spectrometry. HCP use drove rapid changes in the chemical composition of the indoor atmosphere. cVMS dominated VOC emissions from HCP use, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) contributed the most to cVMS emissions. cVMS emission factors (EFs) during hair care routines ranged from 110-1500 mg/person and were influenced by HCP type, styling tools, operation temperatures, and hair length. The high temperature of styling tools and the high surface area of hair enhanced VOC emissions. Increasing the hair straightener temperature from room temperature to 210 °C increased cVMS EFs by 50-310%. Elevated indoor cVMS concentrations can result in substantial indoor-to-outdoor transport of cVMS via ventilation (0.4-6 tons D5/year in the U.S.); thus, hair care routines may augment the abundance of cVMS in the outdoor atmosphere.

Are hair cortisol levels dependent on hair growth rate? A pilot study in rhesus macaques

Research incorporating the analysis of glucocorticoids, specifically cortisol, in hair samples has exploded over the past 10-15 years, yet factors contributing to the accumulation of cortisol in hair are not yet fully characterized. In particular, it is not clear whether cortisol accumulation in hair is dependent on hair growth rate, a possibility raised by prior rodent studies reporting glucocorticoid-mediated inhibition of hair growth. Using rhesus macaque monkeys (Macaca mulatta), an extensively studied nonhuman primate species, the present pilot study evaluated the hypothesis that hair cortisol accumulation is inversely related to hair growth rate (i.e., slower hair growth leading to elevated cortisol levels). Hair samples were collected from 19 adult female macaques and 17 infants (9 males) 3 months apart using a shave-reshave procedure from the same site below the posterior vertex of the scalp. The second hair samples were measured to the nearest millimeter (mm) for growth rate over the previous 3 months and assayed for hair cortisol concentrations (HCCs) using enzyme immunoassay. Because of the possibility of age-related differences in hair growth rate, correlational analyses were performed separately for adults and infants to determine whether HCC values were associated with growth rate in each age group. These analyses revealed that neither group displayed a significant correlation of HCCs with hair growth. The results additionally showed that overall, adults had a faster hair growth rate than infants and, as expected from previous studies, had lower HCCs than infants. Our results suggest that higher HCCs within the non-stress range do not result from cortisol-mediated inhibition of hair growth. Moreover, similarities between humans and macaque monkeys in both HPA axis regulation and hair growth rates argue that these findings are relevant for human hair cortisol studies. Extrapolation to other species in which the features of hair growth and the relevant regulatory mechanisms are less well understood should be done with caution.

Pre-cleaning of hair is not beneficial in LA-ICP-MS studies of chronic metal exposure

Chronic exposure to toxic metals is a serious global health concern. However, population-wide biomonitoring is costly and carries several sampling constraints. Though hair sampling can be a useful way to assess environmental exposure, external contamination is a long-standing concern, and a pre-cleaning step prior to metal quantification has long been recommended despite a lack of evidence for its efficacy. In this study, we quantified the spatial distribution of 16 elements in unwashed human hair samples using Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), then tested how two common pre-cleaning treatments (Triton-ethanol, Triton-nitric acid) affected metal content in external and interior layers of hair using LA-ICP-MS. We show that elements differ in their spatial distribution across hair and that pre-cleaning is not consistent in its effect on element concentrations and decreases interior concentrations of some elements. We demonstrate that differences among individuals can be quantified reliably with LA-ICP-MS analysis of interior concentrations of unwashed hair. Our study tests the widespread notion that pre-cleaning is essential in analyses of hair for environmental exposure to metals, and examines the benefits of a unified approach to analysis of metals in hair using LA-ICP-MS.

Profiling of hair proteome revealed individual demographics

Human hair is often found at crime scenes, persists for a long time, and is a valuable biological specimen in forensic investigations. Hair contains minimal intact nuclear DNA for the discrimination of individual identity. In such cases, proteomics evaluation of hair proteins could provide an attractive alternative for protein-based human identification. Therefore, this study adopted a proteomic approach to profile hair shafts from both males and females across different ethnic populations including Chinese, Indians, Malays, and Filipinos in their 20-80 s. First, hair proteins were extracted by different methods to adopt the most suitable protocol that produced the highest extraction efficiency based on most significant enrichment of keratins and keratin-associated proteins. Abundance of hair keratins including both types I and II, and keratin-associated proteins, estimated using label-free quantification, showed distinguishable profiles, and the possibilities of distinguishing individuals within each ethnic origin. Similarly, several protein candidates and their abundances could be used to distinguish sex and age of individuals. This study explored the possibility of utilizing hair proteomics phenotyping in forensic science to differentiate individuals across various ethnic groups, sex and age.

How different is human hair? A critical appraisal of the reported differences in global hair fibre characteristics and properties towards defining a more relevant framework for hair type classification

This review critically appraises the reported differences in human hair fibre within three related domains of research: hair classification approaches, fibre characteristics and properties. The most common hair classification approach is based on geo-racial origin, defining three main groups: African, Asian and Caucasian hair. This classification does not account sufficiently for the worldwide hair diversity and intergroups variability in curl, shape, size and colour. A global classification into eight curl types has been proposed but may be too complex for reproducibility. Beyond that, hair cross-sectional shape and area have been found to have an inverse relation to curl: straighter fibres are circular with larger cross-sectional area, whilst the curlier fibres are elliptical with smaller cross-sectional area. These geometrical differences have been associated with bilateral vs homogenous distribution of cortical cell in curly vs straight hair respectively. However, there is no sufficient data demonstrating significant differences in hair amino composition, but proteomic studies are reporting associations of some proteins with curly hair. Eumelanin's relative abundance has been reported in all hair colours except for red hair which has a high pheomelanin content. Higher tensile and fatigue strength of straight hair are reported, however, curly hair fragility is attributed to knotting, and crack and flow formations rather than the structural variations. African hair has been found to have the highest level of lipids, whilst the water sorption of Caucasian hair is the highest, and that of Asian hair the lowest. Not all comparative studies clearly report their hair sampling approaches. Therefore, to strengthen the robustness of comparative studies and to facilitate cross-study data comparisons, it is recommended that the following hair defining characteristics are reported in studies: hair cross sectional diameter/area, curl type, hair assembly colour, as well as where possible donor data (age/gender) and sample pooling approach.

Variations in genetics, biology, and phenotype of cutaneous disorders in skin of color - Part I: Genetic, biologic, and structural differences in skin of color

Skin of color (SOC) populations include those who identify as Black/African, Hispanic/Latinx, Asian/Pacific Islander, American Indian/Native Alaskan, Indigenous Australian, Middle Eastern, biracial/multiracial, or non-White; this list is far from exhaustive and may vary between and within cultures. Recent genetic and immunological studies have suggested that cutaneous inflammatory disorders (atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and hidradenitis suppurativa) and malignancies (melanoma, basal cell carcinoma, and cutaneous T-cell lymphoma) may have variations in their immunophenotype among SOC. Additionally, there is growing recognition of the substantial role social determinants of health play in driving health inequalities in SOC communities. It is critically important to understand that social determinants of health often play a larger role than biologic or genetic factors attributed to "race" in health care outcomes. Herein, we describe the structural, genetic, and immunological variations and the potential implications of these variations in populations with SOC. This article underscores the importance of increasing the number of large, robust genetic studies of cutaneous disorders in SOC to create more targeted, effective therapies for this often underserved and understudied population. Part II of this CME will highlight the clinical differences in the phenotypic presentation of and the health disparities associated with the aforementioned cutaneous disorders in SOC.

Age-associated thin hair displays molecular, structural and mechanical characteristic changes

Hair thinning occurs during normal chronological aging in women and in men leading to an increased level of thinner hair shafts alongside original thicker shafts. However, the characteristics of age-associated thin hairs remain largely unknown. Here we analyzed these characteristics by comparing at multiscale thin and thick hairs originated from Caucasian women older than 50 years. We observed that the cortex of thick hair contains many K35(+)/K38(-) keratinocytes that decrease in number with decreasing hair diameter. Accordingly, X-ray diffraction revealed differences supporting that thin and thick hairs are different with regards to the nature of the intermediate filaments making up their cortices. In addition, we observed a direct correlation between hair ellipticity and diameter with thin hairs having an unexpected round shape compared to the elliptic shape of thick hairs. We also observed fewer cuticle layers and a reduced frequency of a medullae in thin hairs. Regarding mechanical properties, thin hairs exhibited a surprising increased rigidity, a decrease of the viscosity and a decrease of the water diffusion coefficient. Hence, aged-associated thin hairs exhibit numerous modifications likely due to changes of hair differentiation program as evidenced by the modulations in the expression of hair keratins and keratin-associated proteins and by the X-ray diffraction specters. Hence, hair thinning with age does not consist simply of the production of a smaller hair. It is rather a more profound process likely relying on the implementation of an "aged hair program" that takes place within the hair follicle.

Maternal hair cortisol concentrations across pregnancy and the early postpartum period in a Puerto Rican sample

OBJECTIVE

Hair cortisol is a noninvasive, long-term biomarker of human stress. Strengths and weaknesses of this biomarker as a proxy measure of perinatal stress are not yet well understood. Hair cortisol data were collected from pregnant women in Puerto Rico to investigate maternal cortisol level variance across pregnancy.

METHODS

In 2017, we recruited 86 pregnant women planning to birth at a large urban hospital. We aimed to collect four hair samples from each participant, one in each trimester and one in the postpartum period.

RESULTS

Median cortisol in the first trimester (n = 82) was 5.7 picograms/milligram (pg/mg) (range: 1.0-62.4). In the second, third, and postpartum periods, the medians were 6.8 pg/mg (1.0-69.5), (n = 46), 20.1 pg/mg (5.6-89.0), (n = 30), and 14.1 pg/mg (1.7-39.8), (n = 9), respectively. These medians disguise a 10-fold and 50-fold variability for two participants. Our sample sizes declined sharply when Hurricane Maria caused major disruptions in services and participants' lives.

CONCLUSION

Maternal hair cortisol concentrations were lower in the first and second trimester than the third trimester and early postpartum period. We also observed a wide range of variation in cortisol levels throughout pregnancy and in the postpartum period.

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial investigating the effects of an Ocimum tenuiflorum (Holy Basil) extract (HolixerTM) on stress, mood, and sleep in adults experiencing stress

Background

In Ayurveda, Ocimum tenuiflorum (Holy Basil) is referred to as “the elixir of life” and is believed to promote longevity and general wellbeing. Although limited, there are clinical trials to suggest Ocimum tenuiflorum has anti-stress effects.

Purpose

Examine the effects of a standardized Ocimum tenuiflorum extract (Holixer^TM) on subjective and objective measures of stress and sleep quality in adults experiencing stress.

Study design

Two-arm, parallel-group, 8-week, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Australian and New Zealand Clinical Trials Registry trial registration number ACTRN12621000609853.

Methods

One hundred volunteers aged 18–65 years received either 125 mg of Ocimum tenuiflorum twice daily or a placebo. Outcome measures included the Perceived Stress Scale (PSS) (primary outcome measure), Profile of Mood States, Athens Insomnia Scale (AIS), Restorative Sleep Questionnaire, and the Patient-Reported Outcomes Measurement Information System-29. Sleep quality was also assessed using a wrist-worn sleep tracker (Fitbit), and stress changes were examined by measuring between-group differences in hair cortisol and stress responses after exposure to an experiment stress procedure known as the Maastricht Acute Stress Test (MAST).

Results

Compared to the placebo, Ocimum tenuiflorum supplementation was associated with greater improvements in PSS (p = 0.003) and AIS (p = 0.025) scores; and at week 8, concentrations in hair cortisol were also lower (p = 0.025). Moreover, Ocimum tenuiflorum supplementation was associated with a buffered stress responses after exposure to the MAST as demonstrated by significantly lower concentrations in salivary cortisol (p = 0.001), salivary amylase (p = 0.001), systolic (p = 0.010) and diastolic (p = 0.025) blood pressure, and subjective stress ratings (p < 0.001). Ocimum tenuiflorum supplementation was well-tolerated with no reports of major adverse effects.

Conclusion

The results from this trial suggest that 8 weeks of supplementation with an Ocimum tenuiflorum extract (Holixer^TM) may reduce objective and subjective measures of stress, and improve subjective measures of sleep quality. However, further research using gold-standard objective sleep measures will be required to substantiate the sleep-related findings.

Clinical trial registration

https://www.anzctr.org.au/ACTRN12621000609853p.aspx, identifier: ACTRN12621000609853p.

Relationships among caregiving, stress, and self-regulation in toddlers living in poverty

PURPOSE

The Developmental Psychobiological Model of Experiential Canalization (DPMEC) proposes that conditions of poverty-related adversity influence child self-regulation through parental caregiving, stress hormones, and the child's genetics. However, empirical findings investigating these relationships with prolonged stress hormones are mixed. Further, the relationships among conditions of adversity with prolonged stress hormones have seldom been investigated in toddlers living in poverty. Guided by the DPMEC, we examined the relationships among maternal caregiving, prolonged stress, and self-regulation in toddlers living in poverty in the United States, to include examining whether toddler prolonged stress mediated relations between maternal caregiving and child self-regulation.

DESIGN AND METHODS

Participants were mothers and toddlers (20 to 24 months of age) living in poverty, who provided hair samples to measure four months of average cortisol concentration to estimate prolonged stress. We used observational measures to examine maternal caregiving and indirect report to measure children's self-regulation.

RESULTS

Findings did not support the role of toddler prolonged stress in mediating the relationship between maternal caregiving and toddler self-regulation. However, multiple linear regression models showed that higher levels of maternal emotionally supportive caregiving significantly predicted better toddler soothability (b = 0.90; p = .03; 95% CI [0.10, 1.69]; partial correlation = 0.26).

CONCLUSIONS

This study adds partial support for the DPMEC to represent associations between maternal caregiving and toddler self-regulation for mothers and toddlers experiencing poverty.

PRACTICE IMPLICATIONS

While these data come from an observational study, pediatric nurses may consider assessing maternal supportive caregiving upon reports of poor toddler soothability.

Hair cortisol as a viable tool for the assessment of an association between environmental noise exposure and chronic stress

Entrenched in the well-established link between stress and health, noise exposure as a potential contributor to stress-related health effects receives tremendous attention. Indeed, exposure to noise can act as a stressor as evidenced through increased heart rate, blood pressure, adrenaline, epinephrine, and cortisol. Cortisol is secreted from the adrenal glands in response to stressor-induced activation of the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis. For assessment of environmental noise and stress, repeated sampling in blood, saliva, or urine is necessary to evaluate the association between environmental noise exposure and protracted changes in cortisol. Controlling for the many variables that influence the secretion of cortisol at discrete sampling intervals is challenging. Studies suggest that systemically produced cortisol integrates and remains in hair as it grows, providing a measure that integrates a cortisol response over a longer period, circumventing several limitations associated with multiple sampling. Robust evidence supports the integration of cortisol into hair, yet recent studies call into question the notion that cortisol is retained with growth. The current paper discusses the strengths and limitations of hair cortisol analysis with an emphasis on its utility as a measure of chronic stress in environmental noise studies.

Impact of hair type, hair sample weight, external hair exposures, and race on cumulative hair cortisol

The biomarker cortisol assesses the impact of biopsychosocial stressors that activate the stress response system. Hair has emerged as a valid and non-invasive means of gauging cumulative cortisol deposited over month-long periods of time. Established protocols for the extraction of hair cortisol are being validated and refined in humans, yet methodological information about hair characteristics on cortisol remains limited. In addition to external hair exposures (e.g. dye, time spent outside), we examined hair categorization or type (e.g. kinky, straight) by extending a hair typing methodology for scientific use that is currently popular among hair care professionals. We then examined the interaction between hair type and race on cortisol levels with a hair questionnaire. Three studies were pooled to investigate how sample weight, hair type, race, heat exposures, and hair treatments impacted cumulative hair cortisol concentrations. Study 1 consisted of Adult Kenyan Medical Workers (N = 44); Study 2 Mexican and Mexican Americans (N = 106); and Study 3 American Youth (N = 107). We found significantly higher cortisol in 5 mg of hair when compared to larger sample weights, and higher cortisol in those who spent more time outdoors. Cortisol concentrations differed between racial groups and varied by hair type; moreover, there were directional differences in cumulative cortisol from straighter to curlier hair types which depended on racial group. In addition to demonstrating the impact of relatively novel control factors like hair sample weight, outdoor exposure, and hair type, the present study illustrates the importance of disentangling hair type and race to understand variability in cumulative hair cortisol. These influences should be included in future studies that measure hair cortisol.

Comparison Between Trichoscopic and Histopathological Evaluations of Hair Parameters

Background

Collecting data on hair counts helps dermatologists diagnose hair diseases more accurately. Quantitative trichoscopy analysis and pathologic examination are two common ways to evaluate hair parameters.

Purpose

The study aims to compare the effect of quantitative trichoscopy analysis and pathologic examination in hair counting and quantify the hair density of average Chinese people.

Methods

Trichoscopy was performed in four scalp regions with a total of twenty-three volunteers without alopecia: frontal, vertex, occipital, and parietal. Hair density parameters were recorded. A 4-mm punch biopsy was performed in the occipital area, and all specimens were transversely sectioned serially and observed to calculate the hair densities.

Results

The average hair density, hairs per follicle unit, and vellus hair ratio from quantitative trichoscopy analysis in the occipital region were 163.07±28.17/cm², 1.87±0.25 and 6.60±3.95%, lower than those from biopsy significantly (214.97±48.73/cm², 2.24±0.30 and 10.48±6.43%). The hair shaft diameter measured by quantitative trichoscopy analysis was 74.52±8.02μm, higher than that by histopathologic examination (68.65±8.00μm) (p<0.05).

Conclusion

Quantitative trichoscopy is a noninvasive, quick, and convenient way to evaluate hair density. Histopathologic examination is an invasive way but provides more accurate data. The data obtained from trichoscopy and pathological examination are different to some extent, which cannot be substituted entirely for each other. This study established the reference for hair density in the adult Chinese population.

Effects of Cosmetic Emulsions on the Surface Properties of Mongolian Hair

In the light of clean beauty and sustainability requirements emerging in the personal care market, the urgent need for the replacement of silicones in hair conditioners-with comparable performance and customer experience-has been highlighted in the industry. In this context, the goal of the present study was to investigate the physical effects of different silicone-free conditioner formulations on Mongolian hair after damage due to bleaching and compare the results to property changes induced by a classical silicone-containing formulation. To that end, the morphology, structure, and composition of strands and individual fibers of this hair type were characterized before and after bleaching by means of optical microscopy, atomic force microscopy (AFM), and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). It is shown that oxidative bleaching causes significant damage to the native hair surface, leading to local depletion or even large-area removal of the outer hydrophobic lipid layer. This results in enhanced wettability of the bleached hair by water (as confirmed by contact angle measurements) and is accompanied by an undesired loss of hair gloss and softness. Upon treatment with suitable cosmetic emulsions, the natural hydrophobicity of intact Mongolian hair can be partially or fully restored, with silicone-free formulations having effects similar to those of established silicone-containing products. The successive influence of bleaching and conditioning was further monitored using inverse gas chromatography (iGC), a technique that probes changes in surface energetics and polarity over an ensemble of an entire hair strand through interactions with specific molecules at the solid/gas interface. The resulting data mirror the macroscopic behavior of the bleached/conditioned hair and provide a quantitative scale for measuring damage and repair effects. Most notably, the effect of bleaching and subsequent conditioning on the haptic perception of hair strands could also be quantified with the aid of a biomimetic measurement system, which identifies increased friction (both tactile and sliding) as the major cause for the strawy feel of bleached hair and indicates successful relubrication after treatment with suitable conditioner formulations. Finally, the different physical properties determined for native, bleached, and reconditioned Mongolian hair are found to be reflected in application-oriented tests, namely in vitro measurements of wet and dry combing work. Overall, the data collected in this work shed novel light on the surface properties of Mongolian hair and highlight that effective hair conditioning after damage can be achieved without silicones in advanced cosmetic emulsions based on octyldodecyl myristate and glyceryl oleate.

An update on cosmetic procedures in people of color. Part 1: Scientific background, assessment, preprocedure preparation

Increased life expectancy, focus on appearance, and readily available and accessible cosmetic procedures have served to drive an increase in the number of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures performed in the last 20 years. Demographic shifts in the United States, with increases in diverse populations that seek nonsurgical cosmetic procedures, have resulted in the need for a better understanding of cultural preferences as well as structural and biological differences in the skin of people of color (POC). Although many advances in the form of cosmeceuticals, cosmetics, and photoprotection have been made to address the aesthetic needs of and minimize complications in POC, nonsurgical cosmetic procedures are required to address common aesthetic concerns. Gaps remain in the education of dermatologists regarding the appropriate selection and execution of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures in POC. This educational initiative will facilitate a favorable outcome and optimal cosmetic results for POC.

Phenotypical Conversions of Dermal Adipocytes as Pathophysiological Steps in Inflammatory Cutaneous Disorders

Adipocytes from the superficial layer of subcutaneous adipose tissue undergo cyclic de- and re-differentiation, which can significantly influence the development of skin inflammation under different cutaneous conditions. This inflammation can be connected with local loading of the reticular dermis with lipids released due to de-differentiation of adipocytes during the catagen phase of the hair follicle cycle. Alternatively, the inflammation parallels a widespread release of cathelicidin, which typically takes place in the anagen phase (especially in the presence of pathogens). Additionally, trans-differentiation of dermal adipocytes into myofibroblasts, which can occur under some pathological conditions, can be responsible for the development of collateral scarring in acne. Here, we provide an overview of such cellular conversions in the skin and discuss their possible involvement in the pathophysiology of inflammatory skin conditions, such as acne and psoriasis.

Evidence for Gender Differences in the Amphetamine/Methamphetamine Ratio in the Hair of Subjects undergoing Fitness-to-Drive Testing

BACKGROUND AND AIMS

Retrospective analysis of hair testing data provides insights in drugs abuse patterns and improves results interpretation. Cases from subjects undergoing driving fitness assessment (2010-2020) were examined to evidence patterns in methamphetamine (MA) abuse.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

All cases with positive MA (≥0.025 ng/mg) were included (n=585). Data available were gender, age, MA and A (amphetamine) in hair (h), hair color/treatment, length of proximal hair. Cases with Ah/MAh≤0.35 (n=469) were arbitrarily selected to remove as many combined A, MA users. ANOVA was performed to detect Ah/MAh predictors.

RESULTS

No predictors affected Ah/MAh. A bimodal frequency distribution was observed. We clustered cases in two groups (1, Ah/MAh 0.025-0.070; 2, Ah/MAh 0.071-0.120) and performed logistic regression. Only gender exhibited significant difference across groups (p=0.0080). Odds ratio for females falling into group 2 was 2.86 times higher (CI97.5 1.34-6.44).

CONCLUSION

Literature data support the hypothesis that the two Ah/MAh groups represent different phenotypes of the CYP2D6-mediated MA N-demethylation. Whether gender plays a role in such difference could not be confirmed. However, these results provide further suggestion of an association of gender and pharmacogenomics with MA disposition, requiring these factors to be considered in future research.

Longitudinal isotope ratio variations in human hair and nails

Due to the straightforward and non-invasive sampling, ease of transport and long-term storage and access to time-resolved information, determination of element concentrations and isotope ratios in hair and nails finds increasing use. Multi-isotopic information preserved in keratinous tissues allows one to reveal dietary, physiological and environmental influences, but progress in this area is still limited by complicated and time-consuming analytical procedures and challenges in accuracy assessment. In this study, longitudinal distributions of δ³⁴S, ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr, ^207,208Pb/²⁰⁶Pb, δ⁶⁶Zn, δ⁵⁶Fe, δ⁶⁵Cu, δ²⁶Mg, and δ¹¹⁴Cd were obtained for hair and nails collected from nine subjects with different age, biological sex, diet and/or place of residence. For S and Zn, the distribution along hair strands revealed a trend towards a heavier isotopic signature from the proximal to the distal end, with a maximum difference within the hair of a single subject of 1.2‰ (Δ³⁴S) and 0.4‰ (Δ⁶⁶Zn). For Fe, Cu, Mg and Cd, a shift towards either a lighter (Cu) or heavier (Fe, Mg and Cd) isotopic composition is accompanied by increasing concentration towards the distal hair end, indicating possible isotope fractionation during deposition or external contamination with a different isotopic composition. Pb and Sr isotope ratios are relatively stable throughout the hair strands despite notable concentration increases towards the distal end, likely reflecting external contamination. The isotopic composition of Sr points to tap water as a probable main source, explaining the relative stability of the ratio for individuals from the same geographical location. For Pb, isotopic compositions suggest tap water and/or indoor dust as possible sources. Similar δ³⁴S, ⁸⁷Sr/⁸⁶Sr, ^207,208Pb/²⁰⁶Pb, δ⁶⁶Zn, δ⁵⁶Fe, and δ⁶⁵Cu observed for hair, fingernails and toenails sampled from the same individual suggest that keratinous tissues are conservative receivers of internal and external inputs and can be used complementary. Seasonal variation in δ³⁴S, ^207,208Pb/²⁰⁶Pb, and δ⁶⁵Cu was observed for fingernails.

Hair Shedding Evaluation for Alopecia: A Refined Wash Test

PURPOSE

The aim of this study is to establish a refined wash test (RWT) and explore the characteristics of daily shedding hair parameters in normal individuals and patients with androgenetic alopecia (AGA) or telogen effluvium (TE).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Chinese subjects diagnosed as normal, AGA or TE were enrolled. For the RWT procedure, the subjects were asked to pre-wash their hair 24 hours before the first collection, then to wash and rinse their hair with flowing water above a sink covered with a piece of filtering cloth. All hairs entrapped in the filtering cloth were air dried and collected. This "wash-and-collect" process was repeated for 3 consecutive days with a 24 ± 2 hour interval. Collected hairs were counted manually, and hair diameter was measured by videodermoscope. Number and diameter of daily shedding hairs and percentage of vellus and terminal hairs were analyzed.

RESULTS

A total of 176 subjects participated in and completed the study. Shedding hair number during daily shampooing was 27.9 ± 12.2, 52.2 ± 28.5 and 125.5 ± 62.7 hairs in normal, AGA and TE participants, respectively, and the differences between each two of the three groups were all statistically significant. Diameter of shedding hairs was 76.9 ± 9.0 μm, 60.0 ± 9.5 μm and 82.7 ± 9.2 μm in normal, AGA and TE, respectively. Along with advancement of AGA severity, shedding hair number was generally increased, while hair diameter decreased. The percentage of vellus hairs in AGA was significantly higher than in the normal and TE groups (8.3 ± 6.6% vs 1.0 ± 1.6% and 1.0 ± 1.0%). The combination of shedding hair number and percentage of vellus hairs had a high diagnostic confidence (AUC = 0.957) to diagnose AGA from normal. Shedding hair number alone showed high confidence to diagnose TE from normal (AUC = 0.999).

CONCLUSION

The non-invasive, easy-to-use RWT established in this study is a valuable tool to evaluate daily shedding hairs, which may be useful in diagnosis, dynamic monitoring of disease progression and treatment efficacy.

Hair to blood mercury concentration ratios and a retrospective hair segmental mercury analysis in the Northwest Territories, Canada

Concentrations of total mercury were measured in blood and hair samples collected as part of a human biomonitoring project conducted in First Nations communities of the Mackenzie Valley, Northwest Territories, Canada. Hair (n = 443) and blood (n = 276) samples were obtained from six communities in the Dehcho region and three communities in the Sahtú region of the Mackenzie Valley. The aim of this paper was to calculate hair to blood mercury ratios (for matched samples) and determine if: 1) ratios differed significantly between the two regions; 2) ratios differed from the 250:1 ratio proposed by the WHO; and, 3) point estimates of hair to blood mercury ratios could be used to estimate blood mercury concentrations. In addition, this paper aims to determine if there were seasonal patterns in hair mercury concentrations in these regions and if so, if patterns were related to among-season variability in fish consumption. The majority of mercury levels in hair and blood were below relevant health-based guidance values. The geometric mean hair (most recent segment) to blood mercury ratio (stratified by region) was 619:1 for the Dehcho region and 1220:1 for the Sahtú region. Mean log-transformed hair to blood mercury ratios were statistically significantly different between the two regions. Hair to blood ratios calculated in this study were far higher (2-5 times higher) than those typically reported in the literature and there was a large amount of inter-individual variation in calculated ratios (range: 114:1 to 4290:1). Using the 250:1 ratio derived by the World Health Organisation to estimate blood mercury concentrations from hair mercury concentrations would substantially over-estimate blood mercury concentrations in the studied regions. However, geometric mean site-specific hair to blood mercury ratios can provide estimates of measures of central tendency for blood mercury concentrations from hair mercury concentrations at a population level. Mercury concentrations were determined in segments of long hair samples to examine exposure of participants to mercury over the past year. Hair segments were assigned to six time periods and the highest hair mercury concentrations were generally observed in hair segments that aligned with September/October and November/December, whereas the lowest hair mercury concentrations were aligned with March/April and May/June. Mean log-transformed hair mercury concentrations were statistically significantly different between time periods. Between time periods (e.g., September/October vs. March/April), the geometric mean mercury concentration in hair differed by up to 0.22 μg/g, and the upper margins of mercury exposure (e.g., 95th percentile of hair mercury) varied by up to 0.86 μg/g. Results from self-reported fish consumption frequency questionnaires (subset of participants; n = 170) showed total fish intake peaked in late summer, decreased during the winter, and then increased during the spring. Visual assessment of results indicated that mean hair mercury concentrations followed this same seasonal pattern. Results from mixed effects models, however, indicated that variability in hair mercury concentrations among time periods was not best explained by total fish consumption frequency. Instead, seasonal trends in hair mercury concentrations may be more related to the consumption of specific fish species (rather than total wild-harvested fish in general). Future work should examine whether seasonal changes in the consumption of specific fish species are associated with seasonal changes in hair mercury concentrations.

Variation of Hair Follicle Counts among Different Scalp Areas: A Quantitative Histopathological Study

INTRODUCTION

Scalp biopsy is a standard method for the definitive diagnosis of alopecia. The hair count parameters of each scalp area remain unclear. This study aimed to determine hair count values at different scalp locations from histopathology and to establish reference values for each part of the scalp.

METHODS

We obtained biopsy specimens from the frontal, vertex, temporoparietal, and occipital areas of the scalps of normal deceased subjects. All specimens were evaluated for the number of follicular units, hair counts, hair types, and stages of the hair cycle.

RESULTS

In total, 240 specimens were collected from 60 cadavers. Across all scalp sites, the temporoparietal area showed the lowest mean hair count, number of follicular units, terminal and vellus hairs, and terminal-to-vellus hair ratio. The average anagen-to-telogen hair ratio was comparable across all scalp sites. This study did not observe a significant association of hair parameters with gender differences or increasing age in all scalp areas.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study revealed the diversity of the hair index among different scalp areas and suggested that normal hair count values should be separately standardized on each scalp region. Our findings may provide useful reference values for the histopathological evaluation of hair disorders in Asians.

Trichoscopic features of hair and scalp in noncomplaining individuals: A descriptive study

BACKGROUND

Trichoscopy is a simple noninvasive tool that is used in calculating different hair parameters and the diagnosis of different hair/scalp diseases at variable magnifications.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this work is to describe the features and parameters of hair and scalp in a healthy sample of Egyptian population using videodermoscopy. This may help to provide standard range of measurements of normal hair in both males and females.

METHODS

A nonrandomized, observational study for features and parameters of hair structure, performed on 368 healthy Egyptian subjects with no hair/scalp complaint.

RESULTS

Each scalp area has its own vascular pattern. Male subjects showed different values regarding their hair parameters from the female subjects. No significant difference was seen after application of hair dye, except for few values. In both genders, there was a change in hair parameters with age. Smoking had a negative influence on hair parameters.

CONCLUSION

Hair features and parameters observed in our population are different from those reported by other populations. Smoking affects hair thickness and density. Dyed hair has greater thickness mostly due to the protective effect of hair conditioners.

Sex-specific association of hair cortisol concentration with stress-related psychological factors in healthy young adults

BACKGROUND

Hair cortisol concentration (HCC) has received attention as a useful marker of stress, but evidence on associations between psychological factors and cortisol concentration is inconsistent. The purpose of this study was to investigate the sex differences in the relationship between cortisol concentration and psychological factors in healthy young adults.

METHODS

A total of 205 (103 females, 102 males) healthy young adults participated. HCC and various stress-related psychological measures were compared between sexes. Multiple linear regression analyses were performed to assess associations between HCC and stress-related psychological measures for all participants and for each sex.

RESULTS

The difference in HCC according to sex was not significant. The reported number of stressful life events in the past year, stress perception, depressive and anxiety-related symptoms, and emotion dysregulation were not different between sexes, either. The association between HCC and emotion dysregulation was significant in females but not males.

CONCLUSION

We observed a sex-specific association between HCC and psychological factors. Our findings may imply that HCC could be a useful biomarker of stress and stress-related emotion dysregulation in healthy young women.

Sociodemographics and chronic stress in mother-toddler dyads living in poverty

Experiencing chronic stress early in life is associated with later health disparities, and poverty may be a significant stressor for both mothers and children. With a sample of primarily Black and White mothers (N = 75) and toddlers (N = 71) living in poverty in the United States, we examined the direct relations between sociodemographic conditions of poverty and chronic physiological stress. Mothers completed questionnaires on sociodemographics, including mother/toddler race, mother's education, father's education, poverty level, economic hardship, marital status, unemployment status, and toddler sex. Physiological chronic stress was measured by assaying the cortisol content of 4 cm samples of hair cut from the posterior vertex of mothers and toddlers (20-24 months of age) to represent 4 months of stress. Mothers' and toddlers' chronic stress was significantly, moderately, and positively associated. Toddlers had a trending relationship of moderately higher chronic stress if they were Black compared to not Black. Mothers had significantly, moderately higher chronic stress if they were Black or had a Black toddler (compared to not Black), not married (compared to married), or were working (compared to not working). The findings suggest that these mothers, simultaneously navigating poverty and parenting a toddler, need resources to reduce chronic stress.

Getting under the skin: Physiological stress and witnessing paternal arrest in young children with incarcerated fathers

U.S. jails see nearly 11 million annual admissions, rates that disproportionately affect men of color-more than half of whom are fathers. An estimated 7% of U.S. children experience the incarceration of a parent, increasing their risk for poor developmental and health outcomes. Although stress processes are often suggested as an underlying mechanism linking paternal incarceration to child well-being, few studies have examined such links. To study how witnessing a father's arrest prior to incarceration in jail relates to children's stress processes, we collected data on 123 individuals from 41 families with young children whose father was in jail, including collecting hair from 41 children, and analyzed their cumulative stress hormones, cortisol, and cortisone. Results indicate that children had higher cumulative stress hormone concentrations when they witnessed their father's arrest. Moreover, there was evidence of a blunted stress reaction in children who witnessed the arrest and who also had high levels of ongoing behavioral stress symptoms, similar to findings in Post-Traumatic Stress Disorder studies. Long-term exposure to stress can have deleterious effects on children's brain development, further increasing risk for developmental psychopathology. Findings have implications for criminal justice approaches that safeguard children during parental arrest.

Artificial Intelligence in hair research: A proof-of-concept study on evaluating hair assembly features

OBJECTIVE

The first objective of this study was to apply computer vision and machine learning techniques to quantify the effects of haircare treatments on hair assembly and to identify correctly whether unknown tresses were treated or not. The second objective was to explore and compare the performance of human assessment with that obtained from artificial intelligence (AI) algorithms.

METHODS

Machine learning was applied to a data set of hair tress images (virgin and bleached), both untreated and treated with a shampoo and conditioner set, aimed at increasing hair volume whilst improving alignment and reducing the flyway of the hair. The automatic quantification of the following hair image features was conducted: local and global hair volumes and hair alignment. These features were assessed at three time points: t₀ (no treatment), t₁ (two treatments) and t₂ (three treatments). Classifier tests were applied to test the accuracy of the machine learning. A sensory test (paired comparison of t₀ vs t₂ ) and an online front image-based survey (paired comparison of t₀ vs t₁ , t₁ vs t₂ , t₀ vs t₂ ) were conducted to compare human assessment with that of the algorithms.

RESULTS

The automatic image analysis identified changes to hair volume and alignment which enabled the successful application of the classification tests, especially when the hair images were grouped into untreated and treated groups. The human assessment of hair presented in pairs confirmed the automatic image analysis. The image assessment for both virgin hair and bleached only partially agreed with the analysis of the subset of images used in the online survey. One hypothesis is that treatments changed somewhat the shape of the hair tress, with the effect being more pronounced in bleached hair. This made human assessment of flat images more challenging than when viewed directly in 3D. Overall, the bleached hair exhibited effects of higher magnitude than the virgin hair.

CONCLUSIONS

This study illustrated the capacity of artificial intelligence for hair image detection and classification, and for image analysis of hair assembly features following treatments. The human assessment partially confirmed the image analysis and highlighted the challenges imposed by the presentation mode.

Within-person changes of cortisol, dehydroepiandrosterone, testosterone, estradiol, and progesterone in hair across pregnancy, with comparison to a non-pregnant reference group

The literature on hormone changes in pregnancy has focused largely on cortisol, and changes in sample average concentrations. Within-person changes and variability in hormone concentrations are less commonly reported, particularly for sex hormones, and especially measured in hair. Using a prospective sample of pregnant women and a non-pregnant comparison group, we examined changes in five steroid hormones in hair. Non-pregnant women were recruited from the same area with parallel procedures and assessment timeline. Participants include 68 women (34 pregnant, average age ​= ​29.14, and 34 non-pregnant; average age ​= ​27.18) who were predominately non-Hispanic White (83%), and above the 2020 poverty line (75%). Pregnant women provided 3 ​cm hair samples and completed questionnaires three times during pregnancy: 1) at 12 weeks, 2) at 26 weeks, and 3) at 38 weeks. Non-pregnant women provided 3 ​cm hair samples and completed questionnaires three times, at baseline, 14 weeks later, and 12 weeks after that to mirror the assessment schedule of the pregnant group. There was clear evidence that progesterone was higher initially and increased dramatically across pregnancy whereas non-pregnant patterns showed no systematic change. There was suggestive evidence that cortisol and estradiol increased over pregnancy and in non-pregnant women similarly across the same time course. There was suggestive evidence that DHEA decreased across pregnancy, particularly early in pregnancy, differently from patterns in non-pregnant women over the same time course. Most importantly, there was substantial variability of hormone concentrations and many different within-person patterns of changes in these hormones over time, with little evidence of systematic change or stability within-individuals. Moving beyond discussing sample averages to including within-person and non-linear changes in studies of hormones-behavior associations during pregnancy is an important future direction for further investigation.

•

We describe within-person hormone changes in pregnant and non-pregnant women.

•

There were many observed patterns of change over time within individuals.

•

Average hair progesterone increased and DHEA decreased across early pregnancy.

•

Average hair cortisol and estradiol weakly increased in both groups of women.

•

There was far more variability over time than systematic change or stability.

Quantifying the impact of braiding and combing on the integrity of natural African hair

BACKGROUND

Afro hair breakage is most commonly attributed to grooming practices such as braiding, hair extensions and weaves, both for chemically treated hair and natural Afro hair. These grooming practices are also frequently associated with traction alopecia in clinical studies. However, there is little to no quantitative scientific data on the surface and internal hair fibre damage caused by grooming, including combing, on Afro hair.

METHODS

Qualitative and quantitative techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, cuticle cohesion and tensile testing were used to determine the effects of frequent braiding on the integrity of female Afro hair in 15 frequent braiders and 15 occasional braiders (control group) in Johannesburg, South Africa. Frequent braiders were women who braided more than 8 times per year, while occasional braiders typically limit braiding to only twice 2 per year. The severity of traction alopecia was quantified in both groups using the standard Marginal Traction Alopecia Scoring system. Surface damage on naturally curly Afro hair, that was combed but not braided, was assessed as another hairstyle option.

RESULTS

All measurements showed a relationship between surface and internal hair fibre damage and braiding frequency. Frequent braiders had thinner hair, with more cuticle damage as shown by SEM and cuticle cohesion assessments. Their hair fibres were also significantly weaker (p < 0.05), as shown by the tensile testing. In addition, they also had higher traction alopecia severity scores. In the combing impact assessment, a linear trend was observed between surface hair fibre damage and the number of combing strokes. Cuticle damage from 480 combing strokes was more severe than that from frequent braiding.

CONCLUSION

Frequent braiding and combing damage natural Afro hair. Quantification of damage caused by different grooming practices identifies a need to develop products that could help mitigate specific hair damage associated with grooming practices. The degree of damage and subsequent hair loss could also be minimized by education on best braiding practices to protect the hair fibre and avoid hair follicle miniaturization caused by high traction hairstyles.

The Effects of Perceived Stress and Cortisol Concentration on Antiretroviral Adherence When Mediated by Psychological Flexibility Among Southern Black Men Living with HIV

This pilot study investigates the correlation between psychological stress and antiretroviral therapy (ART) adherence and plasma HIV RNA (viral load) as mediated by psychological flexibility among Black men in the south. Data were collected from 48 HIV-positive, low income Black men. Results indicate a strong positive correlation between perceived stress and psychological inflexibility (adjusted for age and income r_s = 0.67; p < 0.001), a negative correlation between psychological inflexibility and ART adherence (adjusted r_s = - 0.32; p = 0.03), a negative correlation between perceived stress and ART adherence (adjusted r_s = - 0.45; p = 0.006), and a negative correlation between ART adherence and viral load (adjusted r_s = - 0.37; p = 0.04). Our findings suggest stress decreases adherence to ART and viral suppression among Black men living with HIV. However, psychological flexibility did not mediate the relationship between stress and treatment adherence. Hair cortisol concentrations were high (mean of 34.2 pg/mg), but uncorrelated with adherence.

Increased lead concentrations in the hairs of radiographers in general hospitals

This study investigated lead concentrations in the hairs of radiographers working in the radiological departments of general hospitals that used lead shielding for radiation protection. We collected scalp hair samples from 32 radiographers working in four radiology departments with lead shielding and 18 administration personnel in the same hospitals without lead shielding. Samples were analyzed for lead concentrations by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry. As a result, lead concentrations in the hairs of the radiological technologists were significantly higher than those in the administration staffs (0.72 ± 0.51 vs. 0.19 ± 0.27 μg/g, P < 0.001). The hair lead concentrations were positively and significantly associated with environmental lead concentrations (r = 0.6, P = 0.001), but not associated with age, working duration, and gender distribution.

The social ecology of childhood and early life adversity

An increasing prevalence of early childhood adversity has reached epidemic proportions, creating a public health crisis. Rather than focusing only on adverse childhood experiences (ACEs) as the main lens for understanding early childhood experiences, detailed assessments of a child's social ecology are required to assess "early life adversity." These should also include the role of positive experiences, social relationships, and resilience-promoting factors. Comprehensive assessments of a child's physical and social ecology not only require parent/caregiver surveys and clinical observations, but also include measurements of the child's physiology using biomarkers. We identify cortisol as a stress biomarker and posit that hair cortisol concentrations represent a summative and chronological record of children's exposure to adverse experiences and other contextual stressors. Future research should use a social-ecological approach to investigate the robust interactions among adverse conditions, protective factors, genetic and epigenetic influences, environmental exposures, and social policy, within the context of a child's developmental stages. These contribute to their physical health, psychiatric conditions, cognitive/executive, social, and psychological functions, lifestyle choices, and socioeconomic outcomes. Such studies must inform preventive measures, therapeutic interventions, advocacy efforts, social policy changes, and public awareness campaigns to address early life adversities and their enduring effects on human potential. IMPACT: Current research does not support the practice of using ACEs as the main lens for understanding early childhood experiences. The social ecology of early childhood provides a contextual framework for evaluating the long-term health consequences of early life adversity. Comprehensive assessments reinforced with physiological measures and/or selected biomarkers, such as hair cortisol concentrations to assess early life stress, may provide critical insights into the relationships between early adversity, stress axis regulation, and subsequent health outcomes.

Development and validation of a liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry method for quantifying delamanid and its metabolite in small hair samples

New all-oral regimens for rifampin-resistant tuberculosis (RR-TB) are being scaled up globally. Measurement of drug concentrations in hair assesses long-term drug exposure. Delamanid (DLM) is likely to be a key component of future RR-TB treatment regimens, but a method to describe its quantification in hair via liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) has not previously been described. We developed and validated a simple, fast, sensitive, and accurate LC-MS/MS method for quantifying DLM and its metabolite DM-6705 in small hair samples. We pulverized and extracted two milligrams of hair in methanol at 37 °C for two hours, and diluted 1:1 with water. A gradient elution method eluted DLM, DM-6705, and the internal standard OPC 14714 within 3 min, bringing overall analysis time to 5.5 min. The method has limits of detection (LOD) of 0.0003 ng/mg for DLM and 0.003 ng/mg for DM-6705. The established linear dynamic ranges are 0.003-2.1 ng/mg and 0.03-21 ng/mg for DLM and DM-6705, respectively. Eleven of 12 participant hair samples had concentrations within DLM's linear dynamic range, while all 12 samples had concentrations within the quantifiable range for DM-6705. The ranges of concentrations observed in these clinical samples for DLM and DM-6705 were 0.004-0.264 ng/mg hair and 0.412-12.041 ng/mg hair respectively. We demonstrate that while DLM was detected in hair at very low levels, its primary metabolite DM-6705 had levels approximately 100 times higher. Measuring DM-6705 in hair may accurately reflect long-term adherence to DLM-containing regimens for drug-resistant TB.

A systematic review of hair cortisol during pregnancy: Reference ranges and methodological considerations

The present study systematically reviewed 56 articles that assessed hair cortisol concentrations during pregnancy collected from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science on 8/9/19 and updated on 6/29/20. Our goals were to establish reference ranges by trimester based on published studies. The majority of any given sample (e.g., 70 %, the range of -1SD to +1SD) is expected to fall between 0 and 34.15 pg/mg in trimester 1 and 2, and between 8.59 and 44 pg/mg in trimester 3, with very wide ranges (e.g., values of >250 pg/mg) and substantially higher values (e.g., averages of 200's-300's reaching as high as 768 pg/mg) coming out of one specific lab. Delineating a reference range for hair cortisol concentrations across pregnancy is challenging because of known factors like differences in values returned by different laboratories and assay types. We observed inconsistency in descriptions of the data and data preparation steps post-assay. Key findings include that only half of the studies examining all three trimesters showed a constant increase in mean levels (most retrospectively assessed via segmenting), with considerable variability in patterns of change. None of the studies reported individual patterns of change. Examining within-person changes are an important next step for the field. We conclude that researchers should more clearly report decisions around outliers, units, and specifics of data transformations in the future in order to improve our ability to compare findings across studies, to understand differences in HCC values reported, and potentially to understand differences in reported associations of HCC with other phenotypes in the literature.

Hair sampling for cortisol analysis with mother-toddler dyads living in low-income homes

BACKGROUND

A first step to advance stress science research in young children is understanding the relationship between chronic stress in a mother and chronic stress in her child. One non-invasive measure of chronic stress is hair cortisol. However, little is known about strategies for hair sampling in mother-toddler dyads living in low-income homes in the U.S. To address prior limitations, the purpose of this study was to understand the feasibility of sampling hair for cortisol analysis in mother-toddler dyads living in low-income homes in the U.S. We examined feasibility related to participation, eligibility, and gathering an adequate hair sample weight.

METHODS

We approached 142 low-income, racially diverse, urban-dwelling mothers who were participating in an ongoing longitudinal birth cohort study for informed consent to cut approximately 150 hairs from the posterior vertex of their scalp and their toddlers' (20-24 months) scalp. We demonstrated the process of sampling hair with a hairstyling doll during home visits to the mother and toddler using rounded-end thinning shears.

RESULTS

Overall, 94 of 142 mother-toddler dyads (66 %) participated in hair sampling. The most common reason for participation refusal was related to hairstyle. All but three hair samples were of adequate weight for cortisol extraction.

DISCUSSION

The findings from this study can help researchers address sampling feasibility concerns in hair for cortisol analysis research in mother-toddler dyads living in low-income homes in the U.S.

Effect of Phyllanthus emblica Linn. on Tensile Strength of Virgin and Bleached Hairs

In Ayurveda medicine, Phyllanthus emblica Linn. (emblica) has been used as a hair nourisher for more than a decade by soaking it overnight, but no study has proved the effect of emblica on hair. This research aims to determine the effect of emblica solution on the tensile strength of three types of hair: virgin hair (VH), bleached hair (BH), and twice bleached hair (TH). The investigated active substances were deionized water (DI water) as a control, 3% emblica extract solution (3% EXS), 6% emblica extract solution (6% EXS), and 9% emblica extract solution (9% EXS). Black Virgin Asian hair was measured and analyzed before bleaching with a 12% bleaching agent once (BH) and twice (TH). Three treatments and the control were applied to each type of hair under a controlled condition. The tensile characteristics and surface morphology of all treated hairs were measured and analyzed by texture analysis (TA.XT Plus Texture Analyzer, Stable Micro Systems), Aramo (Aramo-SG Skin & Hair analysis system), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM model JSM-5410LV JEOL). The results of the nanoindentation test proved that the tensile strength and extensibility of all three types of hair increased in all concentrations (DI water, 3% EXS, 6% EXS, and 9% EXS). High magnification SEM images were taken from the cuticle surfaces and cross-sections. Emblica extracted solution (EXS) formed a coating around the hair, especially cuticle damaged by bleaching (BH and TH). The breaking pattern from the cross-section images showed that emblica extract solution reinforced all hair types. In conclusion, the emblica extract solution has a significant positive effect on the tensile strength and extensibility of VH, BH, and TH. The result has proved the ancient intelligence that the emblica nourishes the hair. In addition, our results show additional benefit by strengthening virgin hair and bleached hair.

Assessment of prenatal stress-related cortisol exposure: focus on cortisol accumulation in hair and nails

Prenatal stress adversely affects offspring development. Although cortisol is hypothesized to be a key mediator of stress-induced developmental deficits, determining the amount of fetal cortisol exposure produced by maternal stress has proved challenging. Current approaches, such as measuring cortisol concentrations in maternal plasma, saliva, or urine, amniotic fluid, fetal plasma, or cord blood, all have significant limitations for assessing cumulative fetal cortisol exposure over time. A recently emerging approach is to measure cortisol concentrations in maternal hair and/or newborn hair or nail samples. Maternal hair cortisol potentially shows long-term production across each trimester of pregnancy, whereas neonatal hair or nail cortisol is thought to reflect mainly third trimester hormone accumulation. This review first describes fetal adrenocortical development, placental cortisol metabolism, and the various sources of fetal cortisol exposure across pregnancy. We then summarize the results obtained from "classical" methods of assessing prenatal cortisol exposure prior to the advent of hair and nail cortisol measurement. Lastly, we discuss the initial development and validation of the hair cortisol methodology, its subsequent application to studies of chronic stress, and recent findings regarding maternal and neonatal hair or nail cortisol concentrations in relation to prenatal stress and other variables of interest.

Figaro-tresses: A dataset for evaluating hair assembly features before and after cosmetic treatment

The published database is composed of 1,080 images taken from 120 hair tresses made of medium blond, fine Caucasian hair with the aim to facilitate quantitative and qualitative studies about shampoo and conditioner efficacies. Two types of hair tresses were used: Caucasian hair which had not been subjected to oxidation with bleaching agents - virgin (60 tresses); and Caucasian hair, previously subjected to light oxidative bleaching - lightly bleached (remaining 60 tresses). Since cosmetic products such as shampoos and conditioners are often designed to subtly augment hair assembly features via the carefully balanced cumulative effects of deposited actives, each tress was subjected to consecutive washing+conditioning+drying cycles referred to as cosmetic treatment. The shampoo and conditioner used for this project were specifically selected for their suitability for fine hair. Each tress was photographed at three different time-points: before the cosmetic treatment; after two cosmetic treatments, and after an additional third cosmetic treatment. At each time-point, each tress was photographed from three different angles (-45, 0, and +45°), resulting in a total number of nine images for each tress. For each image in the database, we also provide a corresponding hair segmentation mask, which identifies the hair location area in the original image.

The study of hair follicle counts from scalp histopathology in the Thai population

BACKGROUND

The horizontal section of a scalp specimen offers an advantage over a vertical section by providing quantitative information. The reference data for hair counts in Asians, including Thais, are inconclusive. We aimed to determine the normal values of hair counts in scalp biopsy specimens in the Thai population.

METHODS

A 4-mm punch biopsy was performed at the occipital area of the scalp from subjects presenting with clinically normal hair and scalp appearance. All specimens were horizontally sectioned and observed to assess the number of follicular units and hair follicles, type of hairs, and phase of the hair cycle. The results were further compared between sexes and with the pre-existing data from previous studies.

RESULTS

Ninety specimens were collected from 90 subjects. The average number of total hairs, terminal hairs, vellus hairs, and follicular units per 4-mm punch scalp skin were 20.5 ± 5.2, 18.2 ± 4.1, 2 (range 0-7), and 9.1 ± 1.6, respectively. The mean ratio of terminal to vellus hair was 8.9:1 and of anagen to telogen hair was 91.9:7.9. There were no gender differences in any of the parameters and no correlations with changing age. Compared to other Asian populations, Thais and Taiwanese showed intermediate values between Iranians and Koreans; when compared to other ethnic groups, hair density in Asians showed lower than Caucasians and Hispanics but was comparable to Africans.

CONCLUSION

This study established reference values of scalp horizontal sections in the Thai population; this will be helpful for clinicians and researchers to evaluate hair disorders.

Demographic and psychosocial factors associated with hair cortisol concentrations in preschool children

BACKGROUND

Early life stress has enduring effects on physical and mental health. Hair cortisol concentrations (HCCs) reflect exposures to contextual stressors in early life, but are understudied in preschool children.

METHODS

Hair samples from children (N = 693) during clinic visits (CVs) scheduled at 1-4 years (CV1-CV4) were measured using validated assay methods for HCC.

RESULTS

HCCs were highest at CV1 and decreased at CV2-CV4, with no sex differences. Black children had higher HCC than White/other children; these differences persisted even after adjusting for socioeconomic factors. Bivariable analyses showed significant effects on HCC for Black race, with specific demographic and psychosocial factors at different ages. Multivariable analyses showed that higher HCC at CV1 were associated with Black race and male sex; at CV2 with Black race, lower maternal self-esteem, socioeconomic adversity, and the child's risk for developmental delay; at CV3 with Black race; at CV4 with maternal depression and the child's prior HCC values.

CONCLUSIONS

HCCs were higher in Black children than White/other races; differences were related to maternal factors, socioeconomic adversity, and the child's risk for developmental delay. Public health measures to reduce disparities between Blacks and other races must also consider the long-term effects of chronic stress in early life.

Asian Hair: A Review of Structures, Properties, and Distinctive Disorders

Asian hair is known for its straightness, dark pigmentation, and large diameter. The cuticle layer in Asians is thicker with more compact cuticle cells than that in Caucasians. Asian hair generally exhibits the strongest mechanical properties, and its cross-sectional area is determined greatly by genetic variations, particularly from the ectodysplasin A receptor gene. However, knowledge on Asian hair remains unclear with limited studies. This article aimed to review and summarize the characteristics and properties of Asian hair. It also aimed to discuss hair disorders including linear lupus panniculitis and pseudocyst of the scalp that occur distinctively in Asian populations.