Depigmentation and Anti-aging Treatment by Natural Molecules

Inhibition of Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis by Carboxylic Acids: Mechanistic Insights and Safety Evaluation

It is well established that certain carboxylic acid compounds can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity. This study investigated the mechanisms by which four carboxylic acid compounds-3-phenyllactic acid, lactic acid, L-pyroglutamic acid, and malic acid-inhibit tyrosinase and melanogenesis. IC50 values for mushroom tyrosinase inhibition ranged from 3.38 to 5.42 mM, with 3-phenyllactic acid (3.50 mM), lactic acid (5.42 mM), and malic acid (3.91 mM) exhibiting mixed-type inhibition, while L-pyroglutamic acid (3.38 mM) showed competitive inhibition, as determined by enzymatic kinetic analysis. Additionally, the acidification effects of lactic acid, L-pyroglutamic acid, and malic acid contributed to the reduction in tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, all four carboxylic acid compounds effectively inhibited DOPA auto-oxidation (IC50 = 0.38-0.66 mM), ranking in potency as follows: malic acid (0.38 mM) > lactic acid (0.57 mM) > 3-phenyllactic acid (0.63 mM) > L-pyroglutamic acid (0.66 mM). These compounds also demonstrated a dose-dependent reduction in melanin production in B16-F10 cells. Proteomic analysis further revealed that these compounds not only inhibit key proteins involved in melanin synthesis, such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and tyrosinase-related protein 2, but also potentially modulate other genes associated with melanogenesis and metabolism, including Pmel, Slc45a2, Ctns, Oca2, and Bace2. Network toxicology analysis indicated that these four compounds exhibit a low risk of inducing dermatitis. These findings suggest that these compounds may indirectly regulate melanin-related pathways through multiple mechanisms, highlighting their potential for further applications in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

Metabolomic analysis of plant-derived nanovesicles and extracellular vesicles from Pinellia ternata: insights into a temporary immersion bioreactor system

Plant-derived nanovesicles (PDNVs) and extracellular vesicles (EVs) represent a promising area of research due to their unique properties and potential therapeutic applications. Pinellia ternata (P. ternata) is well-known for its pharmacological properties but the PDNVs and EVs derived from it have been largely understudied. Previous studies have shown that a Temporary Immersion Bioreactor System (TIBS) plays an important role in controlling plant growth in order to obtain reproducible EVs and PDNVs. PDNVs were isolated from P. ternata plants and EVs were collected in the TIBS medium via ultra-high-speed differential centrifugation. Particle size, Zeta potentials and particle concentrations were assessed for PDNVs and EVs. Furthermore, non-targeted metabolomics was used to assess metabolic compositional differences between EVs and PDNVs, enabling the evaluation of the TIBS's quality control efficacy. Metabolomic profiling revealed 1072 metabolites in PDNVs and EVs, including 426 differential metabolites (DMs) distinguishing PDNVs from EVs: 362 DMs were positively correlated with PDNVs and 64 DMs were positively correlated with EVs; they were enriched across 17 KEGG pathways. PCA, PLS-DA, and metabolite sample correlation analyses showed high consistency between the replicates (PDNVs >0.87, EVs >0.93). This study demonstrated that TIBS is a performant system allowing consistency in generating PDNVs and EVs from P. ternata. We also highlighted the metabolic differences between PDNVs and EVs, guiding researchers in finding the bet system to produce efficient nanodrugs containing P. ternata pharmacological compounds.

Development of a versatile optical pH sensor array for discrimination of anti-aging face creams

The certification of cosmetic products has always been a prominent concern. Here, we have developed a pH sensor and applied it in the field of cosmetic safety. Initially, we designed two probes, CH with aggregation-induced emission (AIE) effect and the near-infrared fluorophore derivative CYTYR. By encapsulating them with DSPE-PEG2000-NH2, we obtained the CHCY-lipo nano-micelles with fluorescence resonance energy transfer (FRET) response. By combining them into a sensor array called pC, we achieved sensitive detection of a wide pH range, ranging from 4.69 to 9.25. To validate the performance of the pC sensor array, we employed a multi-channel mode and applied it to differentiate commercial anti-aging creams. Through linear discriminant analysis and 3D fingerprint analysis, the pC sensor array successfully distinguished anti-aging creams from different countries, providing a rapid and accurate method for cosmetic safety identification. The results of this study demonstrate the potential of the pC sensor array for quick authentication of cosmetic products, offering significant support and application prospects in safeguarding consumer health.

Potential anti-aging applications of microbial-derived surfactantsin cosmetic formulations

The skin aging process is a complex interaction of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, such as chemical pollution and UV radiation. There is growing evidence that biosurfactants, especially those of microbial origin, have distinct age-supportive effects through different mechanisms, such as stimulation of fibroblast growth, high antioxidant capacities, and favorable anti-inflammatory properties. With a growing financial contribution of more than 15 m€per year, microbial surfactants (MSs) display unique biological effects on the skin including improved cell mobility, better nutrient access, and facilitated cellular growth under harsh conditions. Their biodegradable nature, unusual surface activity, good safety profile and tolerance to high temperature and pH variations widen their potential spectrum in biomedical and pharmaceutical applications. MSs typically have lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) levels than chemical surfactants enhancing their effectiveness. As natural surfactants, MSs are considered possible "green" alternatives to synthetic surfactants with better biodegradability, sustainability, and beneficial functional properties. This review therefore aims to explore the potential impacts of MSs as anti-aging ingredients.

Sensitive sensing of GLA and ISL based on highly conductivity nitrogen-doped carbon synergistic dual-template molecularly imprinted ratiometric electrochemical sensor

A novel ratiometric Molecularly Imprinted Electrochemical sensor for the specific marker of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. was developed in this work. To achieve simultaneous detection of two analytes on one sensor, we constructed a double template molecular imprinted electrochemical sensor with glabridin (GLA) and isoliquiritin (ISL) as templates. Further, Ferrocene/ZIF-8 (Fc/ZIF-8) composites were prepared via a one-pot solvothermal reaction and coated on the surface of a glassy carbon electrode (GCE), and the oxidation of Fc was presented as the internal reference signal. Nitrogen-doped carbon (NOC) with high conductivity was further loaded on the modified GCE. Based on theoretical exploration and computer directional simulation of density functional theory (DFT), the optimal functional monomer and the best ratio of double template molecules to functional monomer were screened. Under optimal conditions, the sensor produced electrochemical curves when exposed to a solution containing GLA and ISL. As the concentration of GLA and ISL increased, the peak current intensity of GLA and ISL (IGLA and IISL) also increased, while the peak current intensity of Fc (as a reference signal) remained relatively constant. The values of IGLA/IFc and IISL/IFc showed excellent linear relationships with GLA and ISL concentrations in the range of 0.1-160 μM and 0.5-150 μM, respectively. The detection limits were 0.052 μM and 0.27 μM (S/N = 3), respectively. Due to the imprinting effect of MIP and the existence of a reference signal, the sensor exhibited excellent selectivity and anti-interference ability and was successfully applied to the quality evaluation of Glycyrrhiza glabra L.

Preparation of VC nanoliposomes by high pressure homogenization: Process optimization and evaluation of efficacy, transdermal absorption, and stability

Vitamin C (VC) possesses antioxidant and whitening effects. However, its effectiveness is hindered by challenges such as instability, impaired solubility, and limited bioavailability hinder. In this study, VC was encapsulated in nanoliposomes by primary emulsification and high-pressure homogenization. The VC nanoliposomes were comprehensively characterized for their microscopic morphology, particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), and encapsulation efficiency (EE). Orthogonal experiments were designed to optimize the optimal preparation process, and the antioxidant activity, whitening efficacy, transdermal absorption, and stability of VC nanoliposomes were evaluated based on this optimized process. The findings demonstrated the high reproducibility of the optimal process, with particle size, PDI, and EE values of 113.502 ± 4.360 nm, 0.104 ± 0.010, and 56.09 ± 1.01 %, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry analysis showed effective encapsulation of VC nanoliposomes with better thermal stability than aqueous VC solution. Besides, the VC nanoliposomes demonstrated excellent antioxidant and whitening effects in efficacy experiments, stronger skin permeability in transdermal experiments and fluorescence tracking. Furthermore, storage stability tests indicated that the VC in nanoliposomes remained relatively stable after 60 days of storage. These findings highlighted the potential use of VC nanoliposomes in a wide range of applications for the cosmetic market, especially in the development of ingredients for skin care products.

Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study

BACKGROUND

The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers.

AIM

To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide.

METHODS

Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®.

RESULTS

The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin.

CONCLUSIONS

The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Hacking the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients List- How to Read Ingredients in Cosmetic Products and What Is Important for a Dermatologist to Know?

Skin specialists and practitioners are commonly requested to recommend on cosmetic products to improve skin appearance and address certain "non-medical" concerns. During residency and further education, dermatologists rarely expand their knowledge regarding cosmetic ingredients, except if they are a cause of medical condition or disease, such as contact dermatitis. This review provides guidelines to the INCI list structure, together with basic principles of cosmetic products formulation.

Clinical Assessment, Diagnosis, and Management of Infraorbital Wrinkles and Pigmentation

Lower eyelid skin is unique and different from that of other areas. In addition to being an area of high exposure to the sun and elements, there are anatomic considerations and specific histologic characteristics that can cause the skin in this area to be more sensitive. These attributes can readily cause under-eye wrinkling and pigmentation. This review aims to present an updated overview of the current knowledge regarding the clinical characteristics, diagnosis, and management of wrinkles and pigmentation in this area. These disorders are usually caused by different factors, such as genetics, aging, sun exposure, lack of sleep, and stress.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Microneedle-Assisted Topical Delivery of Idebenone-Loaded Bioadhesive Nanoparticles Protect against UV-Induced Skin Damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can penetrate the basal layer of the skin and induce profound alterations in the underlying dermal tissues, including skin pigmentation, oxidative stress, photoaging, glycation, and skin cancer. Idebenone (IDB), an effective antioxidant that suppresses melanin biosynthesis and glycation, can protect the skin from UV-induced damage, accounting for its use in commercial anti-aging formulations. Ideally, IDB formulations should retain IDB inside the skin for a sufficient period, despite disturbances such as sweating or swimming. Herein, we present an IDB topical formulation based on Tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane)-modified bioadhesive nanoparticles (Tris-BNPs) and microneedle-assisted delivery. We found that Tris-BNPs loaded with IDB (IDB/Tris-BNPs) effectively reached the basal layer of the skin and were retained for at least 4 days with a slow and continuous drug release profile, unlike non-bioadhesive nanoparticles (NNPs) and bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) of similar sizes (ranging from 120-142 nm) and zeta-potentials (above -20 mV), which experienced a significant reduction in concentration within 24 h. Notably, IDB/Tris-BNPs showed superior performance against UV-induced damage relative to IDB/NNPs and IDB/BNPs. This effect was demonstrated by lower levels of reactive oxygen species and advanced glycation end-products in skin tissues, as well as suppressed melanogenesis. Therefore, the proposed IDB delivery strategy provided long-term protective effects against UV-induced skin damage.

Anti-Photoaging Effects of Nanocomposites of Amphiphilic Chitosan/18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Improving the transdermal absorption of weakly soluble drugs for topical use can help to prevent and treat skin photoaging. Nanocrystals of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid (i.e., NGAs) prepared by high-pressure homogenization and amphiphilic chitosan (ACS) were used to form ANGA composites by electrostatic adsorption, and the optimal ratio of NGA to ACS was 10:1. Dynamic light scattering analysis and zeta potential analysis were used to evaluate the nanocomposites' suspension, and the results showed that mean particle size was 318.8 ± 5.4 nm and the zeta potential was 30.88 ± 1.4 mV after autoclaving (121 °C, 30 min). The results of CCK-8 showed that the half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of ANGAs (71.9 μg/mL) was higher than that of NGAs (51.6 μg/mL), indicating that the cytotoxicity of ANGAs was weaker than that of NGAs at 24 h. After the composite had been prepared as a hydrogel, the vertical diffusion (Franz) cells were used to investigate skin permeability in vitro, and it was shown that the cumulative permeability of the ANGA hydrogel increased from 56.5 ± 1.4% to 75.3 ± 1.8%. The efficacy of the ANGA hydrogel against skin photoaging was studied by constructing a photoaging animal model under ultraviolet (UV) irradiation and staining. The ANGA hydrogel improved the photoaging characteristics of UV-induced mouse skin significantly, improved structural changes (e.g., breakage and clumping of collagen and elastic fibers in the dermis) significantly, and improved skin elasticity, while it inhibited the abnormal expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3 significantly, thereby reducing the damage caused by UV irradiation to the collagen-fiber structure. These results indicated that the NGAs could enhance the local penetration of GA into the skin and significantly improve the photoaging of mouse skin. The ANGA hydrogel could be used to counteract skin photoaging.

Fungal production of kojic acid and its industrial applications

Kojic acid has gained its importance after it was known worldwide that the substance functions primarily as skin-lightening agent. Kojic acid plays a vital role in skin care products, as it enhances the ability to prevent exposure to UV radiation. It inhibits the tyrosinase formation which suppresses hyperpigmentation in human skin. Besides cosmetics, kojic acid is also greatly used in food, agriculture, and pharmaceuticals industries. Conversely, according to Global Industry Analysts, the Middle East, Asia, and in Africa especially, the demand of whitening cream is very high, and probably the market will reach to $31.2 billion by 2024 from $17.9 billion of 2017. The important kojic acid-producing strains were mainly belongs to the genus Aspergillus and Penicillium. Due to its commercial potential, it continues to attract the attention for its green synthesis, and the studies are still widely conducted to improve kojic acid production. Thus, the present review is focused on the current production processes, gene regulation, and limitation of its commercial production, probable reasons, and possible solutions. For the first time, detailed information on the metabolic pathway and the genes involved in kojic acid production, along with illustrations of genes, are highlighted in the present review. Demand and market applications of kojic acid and its regulatory approvals for its safer use are also discussed. KEY POINTS: • Kojic acid is an organic acid that is primarily produced by Aspergillus species. • It is mainly used in the field of health care and cosmetic industries. • Kojic acid and its derivatives seem to be safe molecules for human use.

Mechanism of skin whitening through San-Bai decoction-induced tyrosinase inhibition and discovery of natural products targeting tyrosinase

Melanin deposition is the main cause of skin darkening, which can lead to severe physical and psychological distress, necessitating the development of approaches for preserving skin health and fairness. Tyrosinase (TYR) is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, and its activity directly determines the degree of melanin accumulation in the skin, which in turn affects skin color. Currently, TYR inhibitors derived from natural products are widely used for skin whitening. San-Bai decoction (SBD) is effective for skin whitening and softening, but its mechanism of action, efficacy and high efficiency TYR inhibitors for skin whitening remain poorly understood. Here, we employed systems biology and network pharmacology to analyze the active compounds and targets of SBD, using the follow databases: TCMIP, TCMID, and BATMAN-TCM. Construct a molecular network centered on the regulation of TYR by SBD in skin whitening, using STRING database and cytoscape. Enrichment analysis using KOBAS database and ClusterProfiler. Virtual screening of candidate TYR inhibitors using Molecular Operating Environment software and Amber 18 software. SBD may act through tyrosine metabolism, melanogenesis, and other signaling pathways to regulate TYR activity and inhibit melanogenesis. We identified TYR and ESR1 as possible key targets for the whitening effect of SBD and screened out pentagalloylglucose, 1,3,6-tri-O-galloyl-beta-D-glucose, 1,2,4,6-tetragalloylglucose, and liquiritigenin 4',7-diglucoside as inhibitors of TYR, in addition to glycyrrhizic acid, pachymic acid methyl ester, nicotiflorin, gamma-sitosterol, and isoliensinine as inhibitors of ESR1. We also performed virtual drug screening of a library of natural small-molecule compounds (19,505 in total) and screened out lycopsamine, 2-phenylethyl b-D-glucopyranoside, and 6-beta-hydroxyhyoscyamine as inhibitors of TYR. We identified natural compounds with the potential for skin whitening through inhibition of TYR, thus advancing research on SBD and its applications.

Fermented Aronia melanocarpa Inhibits Melanogenesis through Dual Mechanisms of the PI3K/AKT/GSK-3β and PKA/CREB Pathways

UV light causes excessive oxidative stress and abnormal melanin synthesis, which results in skin hyperpigmentation disorders such as freckles, sunspots, and age spots. Much research has been carried out to discover natural plants for ameliorating these disorders. Aronia melanocarpa contains various polyphenolic compounds with antioxidative activities, but its effects on melanogenesis have not been fully elucidated. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of fermented Aronia melanocarpa (FA) fermented with Monascus purpureus on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanism in the B16F10 melanoma cell line. Our results indicate that FA inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 cells. FA significantly downregulated the PKA/CREB pathway, resulting in decreased protein levels of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and MITF. FA also inhibited the transcription of MITF by increasing the phosphorylation levels of both GSK3β and AKT. Interestingly, we demonstrated that these results were owing to the significant increase in gallic acid, a phenolic compound of Aronia melanocarpa produced after the fermentation of Monascus purpureus. Taken together, our research suggests that Aronia melanocarpa fermented with Monascus purpureus acts as a melanin inhibitor and can be used as a potential cosmetic or therapeutic for improving hyperpigmentation disorders.

Nanoemulsion Containing Kojic Dipalmitate and Rosehip Oil: A Promising Formulation to Treat Melasma

Melasma is a hard-to-treat hyperpigmentation disorder. Combined incorporation of kojic dipalmitate (KDP), the esterified form of kojic acid, and rosehip oil, an oil with antioxidant and skin-regenerating properties, into nanocarrier systems appears to be a suitable strategy to develop high-performance formulations. A high-energy method (Ultra-Turrax^®) was used to develop nanoemulsions containing up to 2 mg/mL KDP, 5% rosehip oil, and 7.5% surfactant. Formulations were characterized regarding droplet size, size distribution, pH, density, morphology, KDP content, incorporation efficiency, and stability under different temperature conditions. A scale-up study was conducted. Skin permeation, antioxidant potential, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were assessed in vitro. Cell viability studies were also performed. Results showed that nanoemulsions containing 1 and 2 mg/mL KDP had incorporation efficiencies greater than 95%, droplet size smaller than 130 nm, suitable size distribution, zeta potential of approximately -10 mV, and good stability over 30 days of refrigerated storage. The nanoemulsion containing 1 mg/mL KDP was chosen for further evaluation because it had lower nanocrystal formation, greater scale-up feasibility and allowed KDP permeation up to the epidermis similarly than observed for 2 mg/mL KDP. This formulation (1 mg/mL KDP) showed antioxidant and depigmenting efficacy, close to that of 1 mM ascorbic acid. No cytotoxicity was observed in formulations concentrations ranging from 0.06% to 1%.

Improving the effectiveness of anti-aging modalities by using the constrained disorder principle-based management algorithms

Aging is a complex biological process with multifactorial nature underlined by genetic, environmental, and social factors. In the present paper, we review several mechanisms of aging and the pre-clinically and clinically studied anti-aging therapies. Variability characterizes biological processes from the genome to cellular organelles, biochemical processes, and whole organs' function. Aging is associated with alterations in the degrees of variability and complexity of systems. The constrained disorder principle defines living organisms based on their inherent disorder within arbitrary boundaries and defines aging as having a lower variability or moving outside the boundaries of variability. We focus on associations between variability and hallmarks of aging and discuss the roles of disorder and variability of systems in the pathogenesis of aging. The paper presents the concept of implementing the constrained disease principle-based second-generation artificial intelligence systems for improving anti-aging modalities. The platform uses constrained noise to enhance systems' efficiency and slow the aging process. Described is the potential use of second-generation artificial intelligence systems in patients with chronic disease and its implications for the aged population.

Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extraction Process for Hibiscus taiwanensis S. Y. Hu and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Its Extract

In this study, the bioactive components in the stem of Hibiscus taiwanensis S. Y. Hu were extracted by supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2), and the inhibition activity of the extract tyrosinase was analyzed. When the particle size of the powder was controlled to be 50 mesh, the effects of temperatures (40, 45, 50, 55, and 60 °C), pressures (15, 20, 25, 30, and 35 MPa), concentrations of entrainment agent (ethanol) (60, 80, and 95%) and CO2 flow rates (80, 100, 120, and 140 L/min) on the extraction rate, respectively, were studied with the single-variable method. The optimal parameters included an extraction temperature of 55 °C, an extraction pressure of 30 MPa, 80% ethanol as the entrainment agent, and the CO2 flow rate of 100 L/min. Under the optimal conditions, the extraction rate of Hibiscus taiwanensis S. Y. Hu reached more than 0.5% within 2 h. At the same time, the chemical compositions of the extract were investigated by using high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) equipped with a linear ion trap-electrostatic field orbital trap. In addition, the related activity of extract in the stem Hibiscus taiwanensis S. Y. Hu was evaluated by tyrosinase inhibition experiments. The results showed that the inhibition rate of the extract with a concentration of 0.25 mg/mL to tyrosinase reached 35.60%, indicating that the extract by SC-CO2 had the potential to be used for whitening active raw materials.

Arbutin improves gut development and serum lipids via Lactobacillus intestinalis

Arbutin has been widely studied in whitening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant. However, the interaction between arbutin and intestinal microbes has been rarely studied. Thus, mice were treated with arbutin concentrations of 0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, and 1 mg/ml. We found that arbutin promoted gut development such as villus length, villus areas, and villus length/crypt depth (L/D). Total cholesterol (TC), high-density lipoprotein (HDL), and low-density lipoprotein (LDL) were significantly reduced by low concentrations of arbutin. Importantly, we analyzed the microbial composition in the control and 0.4 mg/ml arbutin group and found that the abundance of Lactobacillus intestinalis (L. intestinalis) was highest and enhanced in arbutin. Further, mice were fed with oral antibiotics and antibiotics + 0.4 mg/ml arbutin and then we transplanted fecal microbes from oral 0.4 mg/ml arbutin mice to mice pretreated with antibiotics. Our results showed that arbutin improves gut development, such as villus width, villus length, L/D, and villus areas. In addition, L. intestinalis monocolonization was carried out after a week of oral antibiotics and increased villus length, crypt depth, and villus areas. Finally, in vitro arbutin and L. intestinalis co-culture showed that arbutin promoted the growth and proliferation of L. intestinalis. Taken together, our results suggest that arbutin improves gut development and health of L. intestinalis. Future studies are needed to explore the function and mechanism of L. intestinalis affecting gut development.

The dark side of adipose-derived mesenchymal stromal cells in cutaneous oncology: roles, expectations, and potential pitfalls

Adipose-derived stromal cells (ADSCs) have well-established regenerative and immunomodulatory properties. For such reasons, ADSCs are currently under investigation for their use in the setting of both regenerative medicine and autoimmune diseases. As per dermatological disorders, MSC-based strategies represent potential therapeutic tools not only for chronic ulcers and wound healing, but also for immune-mediated dermatoses. However, a growing body of research has been focusing on the role of MSCs in human cancers, due to the potential oncological risk of using MSC-based strategies linked to their anti-apoptotic, pro-angiogenic and immunosuppressive properties. In the dermatological setting, ADSCs have shown not only to promote melanoma growth and invasiveness, but also to induce drug-resistance. On the other hand, genetically modified ADSCs have been demonstrated to efficiently target therapies at tumor sites, due to their migratory properties and their peculiar tropism for cancer microenvironment. The present review briefly summarizes the findings published so far on the use of ADSCs in the dermato-oncological setting, with the majority of data being available for melanoma.

Biological activities and safety data of kojic acid and its derivatives - a review

Kojic acid presents a variety of applications for human use, especially as a depigmenting agent. Its derivatives are also proposed in order to prevent chemical degradation, prevent adverse effects and improve efficacy. The aim of this study was to peer review the current scientific literature concerning the biological activities and safety data of kojic acid or its derivatives, aiming at human use, and trying to elucidate the action mechanisms. Three different databases were assessed and the word "kojic" was crossed with "toxicity", "adverse effect", "efficacy", "effect", "activity" and "safety". Articles were selected according to pre-defined criteria. Besides the depigmenting activity, kojic acid and derivatives can act as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, radioprotector, anticonvulsant and obesity management agents, and present potential as antitumor substances. Depigmenting activity is due to the molecules, after penetrating the cell, binding to tyrosinase active site, regulating melanogenesis factors, leucocytes modulation and free radical scavenging activity. Hence, polarity, size and ligands are also important factors for activity. Kojic acid and derivatives present cytotoxicity to some cancerous cell lines, including melanoma, hepatocellular carcinoma, ovarian cancer, breast cancer and colon cancer. Regarding safety, kojic acid or its derivatives are safe molecules for human use in the concentrations tested. Kojic acid and its derivatives have great potential for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and medical applications.

Spectrum-effect relationship between HPLC fingerprint and antioxidant of "San-Bai Decoction" extracts

"San-Bai Decoction" (SBD) has been a traditional Chinese medicine compound preparation for replenishing Qi and promoting blood circulation, whitening skin, and removing blemishes since ancient times. However, its chemical composition and antioxidant activity are not clear thus far, which limits the in-depth study on its pharmacodynamic material basis and efficacy. The objective of this study was to establish the fingerprint profile of SBD, assess its antioxidant activity by measuring 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging ability, and find the spectrum-effect relationship of SBD by Grey Relation Analysis (GRA) and Partial Least Squares Regression (PLS). In this study, the fingerprint of SBD was established by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and 20 common peaks were found, among which 6 peaks were designated. The similarities between the fingerprints of 12 batches of SBD and the reference fingerprint (R) were all greater than 0.900. Meanwhile, the antioxidant activities of all batches were concentration-dependent in their linear regression equation. The result of GRA showed that the correlation order of 20 common peaks for DPPH radical scavenging was X13 > X7 > X3 > X6 > X10 > X11 > X4 > X12 > X2 > X18 > X9 > X5 > X19 > X1 > X20 > X16 > X17 > X15 > X8 > X14. At the same time, PLS study demonstrated that the contribution of six identified characteristic peaks to DPPH radical scavenging ability was X1 = X7 > X6 > X19 > X20 > X16. In this study, the spectrum-effect relationship of SBD between its HPLC fingerprint and the antioxidant activity can be used to screen the pharmacodynamic substance basis of its antioxidant action and lay the foundation for establishing quality standards and product development.

Chlorogenic Acid Prevents UVA-Induced Skin Photoaging through Regulating Collagen Metabolism and Apoptosis in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Skin aging is categorized as chronological aging and photo-aging that affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The present study aimed to investigate the anti-aging ability and its underlying mechanism of chlorogenic acid (CGA) on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). In this study, CGA specifically up-regulated collagen I (Col1) mRNA and protein expressions and increased the collagen secretion in the supernatant of HDFs without affecting the cell viability, the latter was also demonstrated in BioMAP HDF3CGF system. Under ultraviolet A (UVA)-induced photoaging, CGA regulated collagen metabolism by increasing Col1 expression and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) and MMP3 levels in UVA-irradiated HDFs. The activation of transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)-mediated Smad2/3 molecules, which is crucial in Col1 synthesis, was suppressed by UVA irradiation and but enhanced at the presence of CGA. In addition, CGA reduced the accumulation of UVA-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), attenuated the DNA damage and promoted cell repair, resulting in reducing the apoptosis of UVA-irradiated HDFs. In conclusion, our study, for the first time, demonstrate that CGA has protective effects during skin photoaging, especially triggered by UVA-irradiation, and provide rationales for further investigation of CGA being used to prevent or treat skin aging.

Nutrition Interventions of Herbal Compounds on Cellular Senescence

When cells undergo large-scale senescence, organ aging ensues, resulting in irreversible organ pathology and organismal aging. The study of senescence in cells provides an important avenue to understand the factors that influence aging and can be used as one of the useful tools for examining age-related human diseases. At present, many herbal compounds have shown effects on delaying cell senescence. This review summarizes the main characteristics and mechanisms of cell senescence, age-related diseases, and the recent progress on the natural products targeting cellular senescence, with the aim of providing insights to aid the clinical management of age-related diseases.

Metabolomic analysis of the grain pearling fractions of six bread wheat varieties

Bread wheat is a staple food crop that is consumed worldwide. In this study, using widely targeted LC-MS/MS, we conducted a high-throughput metabolomic analysis and determined the contents and spatial distribution of metabolites in pearled fractions of the dried kernels of six representative bread wheat varieties cultivated in China. Our aim was to explore the cultivars and pearling fractions with a view toward developing functional food products. We accordingly identified notable differences in the nutrient and bioactive metabolomes, and established that the pearling fractions of each cultivar had distinct metabolic profiles. Flavonoids varied the most amongst the cultivars and were found in higher concentration in the outer layers of the grain, but only at low concentrations in the kernel. Data from this study add further evidence of benefits of whole grain wheat consumption but, specifically, medium-gluten and pigmented wheat offer other nutrient and bioactive benefits whole grain products.

Features, applications, and sustainability of lipid nanoparticles in cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals are a branch of cosmetic products that forms a bridge between cosmetic and drug products. It is a fast-growing branch of the cosmetic industry, especially after the introduction of novel formulation and manufacturing techniques such as lipid nanoparticles (LNPs). These LNPs-based cosmeceutical products offer several advantages such as enhanced bioavailability of cosmeceutical active ingredients (CAIs), improved aesthetic appeal, and stability of the final products. However, the use of these LNPs may raise some concerns about possible side effects of these LNPs and potential hazards to the customer's health. Accordingly, an update that focuses on the use of this important branch of nanoparticles is necessary since most review papers are dealing with all types of nanocarriers in the same review with little focus on LNPs. Therefore, in the current review, a detailed analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of LNPs in this field was highlighted, to emphasize the LNPs-based cosmeceuticals on the market, as well as the potential risk posed by LNPs on exposure and recently introduced regulatory guidelines to address them. In addition, if these products can be a candidate as products that meet the sustainable development goals raised by the UN are discussed.

A new product of multi-plant extracts improved skin photoaging: An oral intake in vivo study

BACKGROUND

Besides the topical application of cosmetics, nutraceuticals represent a promising strategy for preventing skin photoaging and skin cancers.

METHODS

To determine the effect of a new multi-plant extracts product containing Cucumis melo extract, acerola extract, olive fruit, aloe vera gel, grape seed extract, and lycopene, a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical trial and an ultraviolet (UV)-induced murine photoaging model were deployed. 55 healthy subjects aged 45-60 were enrolled and randomized to take the product or placebo orally for 12 weeks. Skin aging and whitening indexes were measured with non-invasive techniques. 90 Balb/c mice aged 7-8 weeks were randomly divided into six groups: normal, UV, UV+vehicle, UV+different doses of the product (0.500 g/kg.BW, 0.250 g/kg.BW, 0.125 g/kg.BW, respectively). Except the normal group, mid-dorsal regions were irradiated with UVA+UVB for 8 weeks. Factors of oxidative stress, tyrosinase, and histological analysis of the mid-dorsal skin were determined.

RESULTS

In the clinical trial, the TEWL, hydration, sebum, elasticity, and the L*, a*, melanin index change from baseline, ITA° were significantly improved in the experiment group. In the animal experiment, compared to the UV+vehicle group, UV+high dose group showed significantly lower malondialdehyde (MDA) and tyrosinase, but higher superoxide dismutase (SOD), total antioxidant capacity (T-AOC), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px). The UV+moderate dose group showed significant improvement of MDA and GSH-Px, and the UV+low dose group only showed improvement of GSH-Px. Histological photoaging manifestations were attenuated in the UV+high and moderate dose groups.

CONCLUSIONS

The multi-plant extracts product improved skin photoaging possibly via antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase ways.

Comparative study of the photo‑protective and anti‑melanogenic properties of gomisin D, J and O

Skin cancer is the most common human malignancy worldwide and solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation is known to serve an important role in its pathogenesis. Natural candidate compounds with antioxidant, photoprotective and anti-melanogenic effects were investigated against the background of skin photoprotective and anti-melanogenic properties. Gomisin D, J and O are dibenzocyclooctadiene lignans present in Kadsura medicinal plants and possess several pharmacological activities. In this study, the functions and mechanisms underlying the effects of gomisin D, J and O in UVA-and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanocytes were explored. Following UVA and UVB irradiation, keratinocytes were treated with gomisin D, J and O, and keratinocyte viability, lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and apoptosis were examined. The results demonstrated that gomisin D and J improved keratinocyte viability and reduced LDH release under UVA and UVB irradiation. Intracellular ROS production induced by UVA and UVB irradiation was suppressed by gomisin D and J. In addition, Annexin V and TUNEL staining analysis indicated that gomisin D and J have significant anti-apoptotic effects on UVA-and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. After α-MSH stimulation, melanocytes were treated with gomisin D, J and O, and the changes in melanocyte viability, intracellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and mechanisms underlying these changes were examined. Gomisin D markedly inhibited the α-MSH-induced increase in intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Mechanistically, gomisin D reduced the protein and mRNA expression levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated melanocytes. In addition, gomisin D markedly downregulated α-MSH-induced phosphorylation of protein kinase A and cAMP response element binding protein, which are known to be present upstream of the MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 genes. Overall, gomisin D has photoprotective and anti-melanogenic effects; these findings provide a basis for the production of potential brightening and photoprotective agents using natural compounds such as gomisin D.

A Comparative Study on Photo-Protective and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of Different Kadsura coccinea Extracts

Kadsura coccinea (KC), a beneficial plant for human health, has been used for centuries in China, Thailand, and Korea in folk medicine and food. There is evidence supporting the biological effects of highly bioactive ingredients in KC such as lignans, triterpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, steroids, and amino acids. In this study, we aimed to explore the effects, functions, and mechanisms of the extracts from KC root (KCR), stem (KCS), leaf (KCL), and fruit (KCF) in UVA and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated melanocytes. First, the total polyphenol and flavonoid contents of KCR, KCS, KCL, and KCF and their radical scavenging activities were investigated. These parameters were found to be in the following order: KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. UVA and UVB-irradiated keratinocytes were treated with KCR, KCS, KCL, and KCF, and keratinocyte viability, LDH release, intracellular ROS production, and apoptosis were examined. Our results demonstrated that KC extracts improved keratinocyte viability and reduced LDH release, intracellular ROS production, and apoptosis in the presence UVA and UVB irradiation. The overall photoprotective activity of the KC extracts was confirmed in the following order: KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. Moreover, KC extracts significantly decreased the intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-stimulated melanocytes. Mechanistically, KC extracts reduced the protein and mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in α-MSH-stimulated melanocytes. In addition, these extracts markedly downregulated myophthalmosis-related transcription factor expression and cAMP-related binding protein phosphorylation, which is upstream of the regulation of Tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. The overall anti-melanogenic activity of the KC extracts was established in the following order. KCL > KCR > KCS > KCF. Overall, the KC extracts exert photoprotective and anti-melanogenic effects, providing a basis for developing potential skin-whitening and photoprotective agents.

Recent development in zebrafish model for bioactivity and safety evaluation of natural products

The zebrafish is a species of freshwater fish, popular in aquariums and laboratories. Several advantageous features have facilitated zebrafish to be extensively utilized as a valuable vertebrate model in the lab. It has been well-recognized that natural products possess multiple health benefits for humans. With the increasing demand for natural products in the development of functional foods, nutraceuticals, and natural cosmetics, the zebrafish has emerged as an unprecedented tool for rapidly and economically screening and identifying safe and effective substances from natural products. This review first summarized the key factors for the management of zebrafish in the laboratory, followed by highlighting the current progress on the establishment and applications of zebrafish models in the bioactivity evaluation of natural products. In addition, the zebrafish models used for assessing the potential toxicity or health risks of natural products were involved as well. Overall, this review indicates that zebrafish are promising animal models for the bioactivity and safety evaluation of natural products, and zebrafish models can accelerate the discovery of novel natural products with potential health functions.

Biological evaluation of Safrole oil and Safrole oil Nanoemulgel as antioxidant, antidiabetic, antibacterial, antifungal and anticancer

Background

Safrole is a natural compound extracted from various plants, and has shown various biological activities. The current study aimed to investigate the antioxidant, antidiabetic, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity of safrole oil and to study the influence of safrole nanoemulgel on these activities.

Methods

The antioxidant and antidiabetic in-vitro assays were conducted using standard biomedical methods. The safrole oil nanoemulgel was developed using a self-emulsifying technique. Then the antimicrobial activity of the safrole oil and safrole nanoemulgel were performed on different microbial species, and cytotoxicity was determined against Hep3B cancer cell lines using the MTS assay.

Results

Safrole oil showed moderate antioxidant activity compared with standard Trolox, with IC₅₀ value 50.28 ± 0.44 and 1.55 ± 0.32 μg/ml, respectively. Moreover, it had potent α-amylase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀ 11.36 ± 0.67 μg/ml) compared with Acarbose (IC₅₀ value 5.88 ± 0.63). The safrole nanoemulgel had pseudo-plastic behaviour, droplet sizes below 200 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) below 0.3, and a zeta potential of less than − 30 mV. Safrole oil has potential antimicrobial and anticancer activities, and these activities were improved with safrole nanoemulgel.

Conclusion

The safrole oil may be applied for the prevention and treatment of oxidative stress, diabetes, different microbial species and cancer, and these activities could be improved by nano-carriers.

The Whitening Properties of the Mixture Composed of Pomegranate, Osmanthus and Olive and the Protective Effects Against Ultraviolet Deleterious Effects

Background

Ultraviolet (UV) rays are the major environmental factor that damage skin physiology causing deleterious effects such as oxidation, photoaging and pigmentation. There has been considerable interest in using botanicals to prevent skin damages caused by UV irradiation.

Aim

In this study, three plant extracts were tested either individually or combined together (mixture) as well as their corresponding main active compound: pomegranate/punicalagin, osmanthus/verbascoside and olive/hydroxytyrosol. We evaluated the whitening and anti-photoaging properties of the nutritional mixture using 2D human culture model and a 3D full-thickness pigmented skin model exposed to UVB and UVA.

Methods

For exploring skin pigmentation, oxidation and aging, we performed cell viability, tyrosinase activity and melanin content assays as well as histology analysis (Whartin–Starry staining), immunodetection (PMEL, MDA, collagen type I and elastin) and carbonylated proteins analysis by electrophoresis separation.

Results

Results showed that the pomegranate extract and the active molecule punicalagin could reduce the tyrosinase activity and melanin content in melanocytes (P < 0.05). The mixture, pomegranate extract and punicalagin inhibited the melanin production and pre-melanosomal protein (PMEL) expression in the 3D skin pigmented model (P < 0.001). Furthermore, the mixture treatment repaired the expressions of collagen I and elastin decrease by UV exposure (P < 0.01). The mixture also significantly decreased lipid peroxidation (P < 0.001) and carbonylated proteins (P < 0.05) in the skin model compared to the UV-exposed condition.

Conclusion

To conclude, the mixture composed of pomegranate, osmanthus and olive extracts protects human skin from UV rays deleterious effects and exhibits antioxidative, anti-aging and skin whitening properties. Our data suggested pomegranate contributed to the whitening properties of the mixture notably through its main active compound, punicalagin. The mixture might be a good candidates for further development as natural antioxidant and skin care product.

Network pharmacology-based screening of the active ingredients and mechanisms of Huangqi against aging

ABSTRACT

Studies have shown that Huangqi (HQ) has anti-aging efficacy. However, its active ingredients and mechanisms for anti-aging are still unclear. In this study, we will systematically screen the active ingredients of HQ and explore the possible mechanism of HQ in prevention from aging through network pharmacology technology.The main active ingredients of HQ were obtained from Traditional Chinese Medicine Systems Pharmacology Database and Analysis Platform (TCMSP). The possible targets were predicted by TCMSP. The related targets for aging were obtained from GeneCards (The Human Gene Database) and Online Mendelian Inheritance in Man (OMIM) database. The common targets of HQ and aging were obtained using R 3.6.3 software. The protein-protein interaction (PPI) network and the ingredient-target-disease network were constructed using Cytoscape 3.7.2 software for visualization. In addition, the Gene Ontology (GO) functional enrichment and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) pathway annotation of potential targets were performed using R 3.6.3 software.Based on the screening conditions, 16 active ingredients and 28 drug targets were obtained. The PPI network contained 29 proteins, including PTGS2, AR, NOS2, and so on. GO functional enrichment analysis obtained 40 GO items (P < .05). KEGG pathway enrichment analysis obtained 110 aging related pathways (P < .05), including hypoxia inducible factor 1 signaling pathway, PI3K-Akt signaling pathway, AGE-RAGE signaling pathway in diabetic complication, among others.Sixteen effective ingredients of HQ and 28 targets against aging were identified through network pharmacology. Multiple pathways were involved in the effect of HQ on preventing aging.

Optimization of Two Eco-Friendly Extractions of Black Medick (Medicago lupulina L.) Phenols and Their Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical, α-Glucosidase and α-Amylase Inhibitory Properties

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box–Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X₁), extraction temperature (X₂) and time (X₃), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X₁, X₂, X₃): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Metabolomics study of different parts of licorice from different geographical origins and their anti-inflammatory activities

Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., known as licorice, is one of the most famous traditional Chinese medicines. In this study, we perform a metabolome analysis using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry to assign bioactive components in different parts of licorice from different geographical origins in Gansu province of China. Sixteen potential biomarkers of taproots from different geographical origins were annotated, such as glycycoumarin, gancaonin Z, licoricone, and dihydroxy kanzonol H mainly exist in the sample of Jiuquan; neoliquiritin, 6'-acetylliquiritin, licochalcone B, isolicoflavonol, glycyrol, and methylated uralenin mainly exist in Glycyrrhiza uralensis from Lanzhou; gancaonin L, uralenin, and glycybridin I mainly exist in licorice from Wuwei for the first time.