Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Current Approaches in Cosmeceuticals: Peptides, Biotics and Marine Biopolymers

Today's consumer perception and expectations of personal care have gone beyond merely cleansing, moisturizing, and makeup products, focusing more on the reduction or elimination of signs of aging. Cosmeceuticals, developed to create a more youthful appearance, commonly contain substances with therapeutic and physiological effects. The development of cosmeceutical products containing peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds has become a highly popular strategy to enhance anti-aging effects and better address consumer demands. Peptides are frequently used in anti-aging products due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to the skin's barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, biotic components are extensively evaluated for their potential to improve barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora. On the other hand, the increasing interest of cosmetic consumers in natural and eco-friendly products, along with the rich biodiversity in the oceans and seas, has made marine-derived substances highly significant for the cosmetic industry. Marine polysaccharides are particularly valuable as biopolymers, offering useful properties for gel formation in cosmetic formulations. This review discusses scientific studies and commercially available products using peptides, biotic and marine-based compounds in cosmetic formulations, their cosmetic and cosmeceutical benefits, and the challenges in the formulation design of these products.

Noninvasive Monitoring of Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 in Human Skin Layers: Mechanical Interaction with Skin Components and Its Potential Skincare Benefits

Self-assembling peptides (SAPs) represent a rich source of building blocks that interact with biological structures. For instance, cosmetic SAPs like Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 have gained increasing interest for their anti-aging properties. However, their short-term impact on the skin composition and mechanics remains unclear. In this study, a battery of label-free techniques is exploited to objectively monitor the effects of Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 on human skin. Orbital trapping secondary ion mass spectrometry (OrbiSIMS) is used to discern between Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 sol and gel forms, tracking its self-assembly and penetration within full-thickness human skin. Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 is shown to permeate both stratum corneum and epidermal layers, initiating gel formation by harnessing endogenous ions. Hence, the ability of the peptide to strengthen and repair the skin barrier after delipidation is also demonstrated through a high-throughput mechanical characterization and stimulated Raman scattering (SRS). Finally, the co-assembling properties of Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 with native skin molecules are shown via in vitro tests and ex vivo histology. This study establishes a methodological benchmark for measuring the effects of cosmetic peptides on skin mechanics and hydration, introducing a platform to design SAPs capable of harnessing native skin molecules to create "biocooperative" structures with cosmetic benefits.

Synthesis of a retro-GFOGER Adamantane-Based Collagen Mimetic Peptide Imbibed in a Hyaluronic Acid Hydrogel for Enhanced Wound Healing

This study reported the synthesis and formulation of an adamantane-based collagen mimetic peptide (CMP) hydrogel containing the integrin-binding motif retro-GFOGER, designed to enable the controlled delivery of CMPs with the ability of direct wound healing for the potential treatment of acute wounds. Initially, two adamantane-functionalized CMPs (peptides NL008 and NL010) were synthesized, characterized, and comparatively screened for their in vitro biocompatibility and bioactivity. In vitro evaluations of scratch closure and biocompatibility were assessed on human-derived keratinocytes. Release and permeation of the peptides were evaluated in vitro and ex vivo. Wound closure rates and histological evaluations were performed on male Sprague-Dawley rats over 3, 7, and 14 days for the NL010-HAgel formulation. Peptide NL010 was found to be the most suitable candidate among the adamantane CMPs. For a comparative study, peptide NL010 and its palmitic acid analogue, NL009, were loaded into a hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogel and lyophilized. The CMP hydrogels exhibited porosity (<30 μm) and were viscoelastic solids. The physicomechanical properties of the formulations showed optimal characteristics for application as wound dressings in terms of textural profile. Peptide NL008 exhibited lower bioactivity and cell viability compared to NL009 and NL010 across various concentrations and cell lines. Peptide release from NL009-HAgel and NL010-HA gel was 74% and 83%, respectively. Across an ex vivo porcine skin membrane, the CMP-HAgel showed good permeation and was retained in the epidermis and superficial dermis. CMP-HAgel at 0.1% (w/v) showed better HaCaT cell viabilities. In vitro assays demonstrated that the NL010-HA gel achieved scratch closure (99.9%) within 24 h, while the NL009-HAgel showed scratch closure (93.7%) within the same time frame. In vivo, NL010-HAgel improved healing by enhancing epithelialization and granulation tissue deposition (via fibroblast and collagen responses). The findings of this study suggested that the CMP cell-instructive hydrogel is a promising platform with the potential to accelerate wound healing.

Overview of Peptides and Their Potential Roles in Skin Health and Beauty

Peptides are molecules that consist of at least two amino acids linked by peptide bonds. The difference between peptides and proteins is primarily based on size and structure. Typically, oligopeptides consist of fewer than about 10-20 amino acids, and polypeptides consist of more than 20 amino acids, whereas proteins usually are made up more than 50 amino acids and often contain multiple peptide subunits as stated in the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry rules. Beyond the nutritional properties, peptides are also structural components of hormones, enzymes, toxins, and antibiotics and play several fundamental physiological roles in the body. Since the introduction of the first commercial peptide drug, insulin, peptide-based drugs have gained increased interest. So far, more than 80 peptide-based drugs have reached the market for a wide range of conditions, such as diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and urological disorders. Meanwhile, peptides have also gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry because of their potential in boosting skin health. In this review, peptides were comprehensively summarized in the aspects of sources, function, the use of peptides in cosmetics and skin care, and indications for the delivery of cosmetic peptides.

Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Senescence: A Review

One class of cosmetic compounds that have raised interest of many experts is peptides. The search for ingredients with good biocompatibility and bioactivity has led to the use of peptides in cosmetic products. Peptides are novel active ingredients that improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation. Based on their mechanism of action, they can be classified into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. This review focuses on the main types of peptides and their application in the cosmetic field, underlining their main limitations. One of the most significant drawbacks of cosmetic peptides is their poor permeability through membranes, which limits their delivery and effectiveness. As a result, this review follows the methods used for improving permeability through the stratum corneum. Increasing peptide bioavailability and stability for enhanced delivery to the desired site of action and visible effects have become central points for the latest research due to their promising features. For this purpose, several methods have been identified and described. Physical techniques include thermal ablation (radiofrequency and laser), electrical methods (electroporation, iontophoresis), mechanical approach (microneedles), and ultrasounds. As an alternative, innovative formulations have been developed in nano-systems such as liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, nanoemulsions, and other nanomaterials to reduce skin irritation and improve product effectiveness. The purpose of this review is to provide the latest information regarding these noteworthy molecules and the reasoning behind their use in cosmetic formulations.

Retinol and Oligopeptide-Loaded Lipid Nanocarriers as Effective Raw Material in Anti-Acne and Anti-Aging Therapies

The use of lipid nanocarriers as components of cosmetic formulations may provide an opportunity to fully exploit the beneficial properties of pentapeptide-18 and retinol while reducing the undesirable effects that occur during retinoid therapy. This study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of semi-solid formulations enriched with retinol and oligopeptide-loaded lipid nanocarriers. Solid lipid nanoparticles were produced using a high-shear homogenization method. The work included physicochemical characterization of the cosmetic products, and evaluation of their stability as well as their efficacy. The resulting semi-solid preparations were determined to be stable regardless of their storage temperature. No effect of the presence of lipid nanoparticles on the shelf-life stability of the cosmetic products was observed. A temperature of 25 °C was considered the recommended storage temperature for the tested semi-solid formulations. Beneficial effects of the cosmetic products were proven (in vivo study on volunteers), i.e., a significant reduction in the level of sebum secretion (anti-acne therapy) and a decrease in the number of facial wrinkles (anti-aging therapy). In addition, the protective properties of the lipid nanoparticles themselves against the skin were confirmed, reducing the irritating effect of retinol that is usually the case with classic retinoid therapies.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Incorporated with Retinol and Pentapeptide-18-Optimization, Characterization, and Cosmetic Application

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research's main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1-non-incorporated SLNs; 2-SLNs containing only retinol; 3-SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [-]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.

Peptide and peptidomimetic tyrosinase inhibitors

Melanin, which is produced by melanocytes and spread over keratinocytes, is responsible for human skin browning. There are several processes involved in melanogenesis, mostly prompted by enzymatic activities. Tyrosinase (TYR), a copper containing metalloenzyme, is considered the main actor in melanin production, as it catalyzes two crucial steps that modify tyrosine residues in dopaquinone. For this reason, TYR inhibition has been exploited as a possible mechanism of modulation of hyper melanogenesis. There are various types of molecules used to block TYR activity, principally used as skin whitening agents in cosmetic products, e.g., tretinoin, hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin and peptides. Peptides are highly valued for their versatile nature, making them promising candidates for various functions. Their specificity often leads to excellent safety, tolerability, and efficacy in humans, which can be considered their primary advantage over traditional small molecules. There are several examples of tyrosinase inhibitor peptides (TIPs) operating as possible hypo-pigmenting agents, which can be classified according to their origin: natural, hybrid or synthetically produced. Moreover, the possibility of variating their backbones, introducing non-canonical amino acids or modifying one or more peptide bond(s), to obtain peptidomimetic molecules, is an added value to avoid or delay proteolytic activity, while the possibility of conjugation with other bioactive peptides or organic moieties can bring other specific activity leading to dual-functional peptides.

In Silico Strategies to Predict Anti-aging Features of Whey Peptides

We have analysed the in silico potential of bioactive peptides from cheese whey, the most relevant by-product from the dairy industry, to bind into the active site of collagenase and elastase. The peptides generated from the hydrolysis of bovine β-lactoglobulin with three proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin, and subtilisin) were docked onto collagenase and elastase by molecular docking. The interaction models were ranked according to their free binding energy using molecular dynamics simulations, which showed that most complexes presented favourable interactions. Interactions with elastase had significantly lower binding energies than those with collagenase. Regarding the interaction site, it was found that four bioactive peptides were positioned in collagenase's active site, while six were found in elastase's active site. Among these, the most we have found one promising collagen-binding peptide produced by chymotrypsin and two for elastase, produced by subtilisin and chymotrypsin. These in silico results can be used as a tool for designing further experiments aiming at testing the in vitro potential of the peptides found in this work.

Optimization of peptide synthesis time and sustainability using novel eco-friendly binary solvent systems with induction heating on an automated peptide synthesizer

On December 12th, 2023, the European Commission took regulatory action to amend Annex XVII of REACH, imposing restrictions on the use of N,N-dimethylformamide (DMF) within the EU market owing to its high toxicity. Historically, DMF has been widely considered the gold standard for solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS). Being urgent to propose alternative solvents, we tested the suitability of non-hazardous neat and mixed solvents. Notably, binary solvent mixtures containing dimethyl sulfoxide as one of the solvent partners demonstrated high efficacy in solubilizing reagents while maintaining the desired swelling characteristics of common resins. A series of binary solvent mixtures were tested in automated SPPS, both at room temperature and high temperature, employing the PurePep® Chorus synthesizer, which enabled controlled induction heating between 25 and 90°C with oscillation mixing. The performances were assessed in challenging peptide sequences, i.e., ACP (65-74), and in longer and aggregating sequences like SARS-CoV-2 RBM (436-507) and β-amyloid (1-42). Furthermore, as part of the proposed sustainable approach to minimize the utilization of hazardous solvents, we coupled the novel PurePep EasyClean catch-and-release purification technology. This work, addressing regulatory compliance, emphasizes the crucial role of green chemistry in advancing safer and more environmentally friendly practices in SPPS.

Brønsted Acid-Lewis Acid (BA-LA) Induced Final Deprotection/Peptide Resin Cleavage in Fmoc/t-Bu Solid-Phase Peptide Synthesis: HCl/FeCl3 and AcOH/FeCl3 as Viable PFAS-Free Alternatives for TFA

The widely used Fmoc/t-Bu solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) is hampered by relying on corrosive, per/polyfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS) classified trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) as a universal protecting group (PG) removal/resin cleavage reagent. We report that suitable combinations of Brønsted acids (BAs) and Lewis acids (LAs) such as HCl/FeCl3 and AcOH/FeCl3 constitute viable alternatives for TFA as PFAS-free cleavage agents. Using water miscible dimethyl carbonate (DMC) and acetonitrile (MeCN) as solvents enabled diluting cleavage mixtures with suitable aqueous solutions, allowing for direct use in purification in which removal of >99.99% iron from an HCl/FeCl3 induced cleavage was demonstrated.

Wrinkle-Improving Effect of Novel Peptide That Binds to Nicotinic Acetylcholine Receptor

Wrinkles, one of the most common signs of aging, are primarily caused by the continuous contraction of muscles. Muscle contraction is induced by the binding of acetylcholine (ACh), released at the neuromuscular junction, to nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChR) present on the muscle cell surface. In this study, we aimed to develop a wrinkle-improving peptide that inhibits the binding of ACh to nAChR using peptide phage display technology. Our peptide showed a remarkably high binding affinity to nAChR subunit α1, with a value below 1 µM, and was found to inhibit the action of ACh through its interaction with these receptors. Furthermore, it increased collagen synthesis in skin cells and upregulated the expression of the aquaporin-3 (AQP3) and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS2) genes. These results confirm that the peptide effectively inhibits muscle contraction and enhances skin elasticity and hydration, contributing to its wrinkle-reducing effects. Clinical studies on humans observed significant improvement in wrinkles after three weeks of use, with substantial reduction observed after six weeks. In conclusion, these findings demonstrate the efficacy of the peptide (named Medipep) in reducing wrinkles.

Anti-aging activity of Syn-Ake peptide by in silico approaches and in vitro tests

The increase in the aging population worldwide has led scientists to turn to research to prevent the aging process. In this context, synthetic peptides emerge as candidate molecules for developing new anti-aging products. This study aims to investigate the possible interactions of Syn-Ake, a synthetic peptide, with matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1), which are the targets of anti-aging activities with in silico approaches, and to determine the antioxidant activity, and safety profile of the peptide by in vitro methods such as cytotoxicity (MTT) and genotoxicity (Ames) tests. The molecular docking study showed that the docking score energy of MMP receptors was in the order of MMP-13 < MMP-8 < MMP-1. Syn-Ake peptide provided the lowest and the most stable binding to the SIRT1 receptor at -9.32 kcal/mol. Binding interaction and protein-ligand stability of Syn-Ake with MMPs and SIRT1 in a dynamic system were predicted by 50 ns molecular dynamic (MD) simulation studies. The MD results showed that the Syn-Ake peptide remained stable in the active site of MMP-13 and SIRT1 receptors during 50 ns simulations. In addition, the antioxidant activity of Syn-Ake was investigated using diphenyl-2-picril-hydrazine (DPPH) method since it is crucial to remove free radicals that are effective in skin aging. The results revealed the concentration-dependent increased DPPH radical scavenging activity of the peptide. Finally, the safety of the Syn-Ake was investigated, and the safe dose of the peptide was determined. In conclusion, in silico and in vitro analyses show that the Syn-Ake peptide may hold promise in anti-aging formulations with its high efficacy and safety profile.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

A production platform for disulfide-bonded peptides in the periplasm of Escherichia coli

BACKGROUND

Recombinant peptide production in Escherichia coli provides a sustainable alternative to environmentally harmful and size-limited chemical synthesis. However, in-vivo production of disulfide-bonded peptides at high yields remains challenging, due to degradation by host proteases/peptidases and the necessity of translocation into the periplasmic space for disulfide bond formation.

RESULTS

In this study, we established an expression system for efficient and soluble production of disulfide-bonded peptides in the periplasm of E. coli. We chose model peptides with varying complexity (size, structure, number of disulfide bonds), namely parathyroid hormone 1-84, somatostatin 1-28, plectasin, and bovine pancreatic trypsin inhibitor (aprotinin). All peptides were expressed without and with the N-terminal, low molecular weight CASPON™ tag (4.1 kDa), with the expression cassette being integrated into the host genome. During BioLector™ cultivations at microliter scale, we found that most of our model peptides can only be sufficiently expressed in combination with the CASPON™ tag, otherwise expression was only weak or undetectable on SDS-PAGE. Undesired degradation by host proteases/peptidases was evident even with the CASPON™ tag. Therefore, we investigated whether degradation happened before or after translocation by expressing the peptides in combination with either a co- or post-translational signal sequence. Our results suggest that degradation predominantly happened after the translocation, as degradation fragments appeared to be identical independent of the signal sequence, and expression was not enhanced with the co-translational signal sequence. Lastly, we expressed all CASPON™-tagged peptides in two industry-relevant host strains during C-limited fed-batch cultivations in bioreactors. We found that the process performance was highly dependent on the peptide-host-combination. The titers that were reached varied between 0.6-2.6 g L-1, and exceeded previously published data in E. coli. Moreover, all peptides were shown by mass spectrometry to be expressed to completion, including full formation of disulfide bonds.

CONCLUSION

In this work, we demonstrated the potential of the CASPON™ technology as a highly efficient platform for the production of soluble peptides in the periplasm of E. coli. The titers we show here are unprecedented whenever parathyroid hormone, somatostatin, plectasin or bovine pancreatic trypsin inhibitor were produced in E. coli, thus making our proposed upstream platform favorable over previously published approaches and chemical synthesis.

Topically applied GHK as an anti-wrinkle peptide: Advantages, problems and prospective

Introduction

Peptides are promising and attractive anti-wrinkle active ingredients, amongst which glycyl-histidyl-lysine peptide (GHK) is one of the most broadly promoted peptide for topical application. This simple sequence of amino acid residues not only has the capability of tissue regeneration and the enhancement of collagen and glycosaminoglycans synthesis but also is able to increase nerve outgrowth and angiogenesis. Consequently, GHK has several properties, from wound healing to prevention/reduction wrinkles. GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are metal complex and palmitoylated derivatives of GHK, respectively. Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are widely used in anti-wrinkle products available on the cosmetic market, the published information on their skin permeability, effectiveness, physicochemical properties and so on is insufficient.

Methods

This review aims to highlight whether GHK is sufficiently effective on wrinkle prevention/reduction. Apart from the effectiveness, another question that is tried to be answered is whether skin permeability of GHK allows it to act as an anti-wrinkle peptide at its site of action? Skin permeation enhancement methods employed so far are also reviewed.

Results

Based on cellular studies, undoubtedly, GHK can be considered as an anti-wrinkle ingredient. Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK have been of interest as effective peptides to be incorporated in the anti-wrinkle products, there is a surprising absence of clinical studies using them. Metal complexation and chemical modification with a hydrophobic moiety increase permeability of this peptide. Besides, cell penetrating peptides seem promising to increase skin permeation of GHK and its derivatives. Skin pretreatment with microneedles also has the potential to be further studied for permeation enhancement of such peptides. As peptide ingredients, their formulation may encounter some challenges, mainly due to their hydrophilic (high aqueous solubility and low partition coefficient) and unstable nature.

Conclusion

Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are effective and relatively skin permeable, their permeability could be successfully increased using permeation enhancement methodologies.

Screening, separation and identification of metal-chelating peptides for nutritional, cosmetics and pharmaceutical applications

Metal-chelating peptides, which form metal-peptide coordination complexes with various metal ions, can be used as biofunctional ingredients notably to enhance human health and prevent diseases. This review aims to discuss recent insights into food-derived metal-chelating peptides, the strategies set up for their discovery, their study, and identification. After understanding the overall properties of metal-chelating peptides, their production from food-derived protein sources and their potential applications will be discussed, particularly in nutritional, cosmetics and pharmaceutical fields. In addition, the review provides an overview of the last decades of progress in discovering food-derived metal-chelating peptides, addressing several screening, separation and identification methodologies. Furthermore, it emphasizes the methods used to assess peptide-metal interaction, allowing for better understanding of chemical and thermodynamic parameters associated with the formation of peptide-metal coordination complexes, as well as the specific amino acid residues that play important roles in the metal ion coordination.

Overview of popular cosmeceuticals in dermatology

The eternal pursuit to prevent ageing and maintain a youthful appearance has resulted in a rapidly expanding cosmeceutical industry. Cosmeceutical products, particularly of natural origin, are in high demand due to claims of efficacy for signs of ageing and other skin conditions. Consumers often include cosmeceutical products in their skin care regime as they are readily available, and a more affordable option compared to prescription products. However, many cosmeceutical ingredients lack clinical evidence regarding their efficacy and safety as these products are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. This review provides a brief overview of several popular cosmeceutical ingredients with regards to their potential indications, targets and mechanisms of action.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

AagingBase: a comprehensive database of anti-aging peptides

The process of aging is an intrinsic and inevitable aspect of life that impacts every living organism. As biotechnological advancements continue to shape our understanding of medicine, peptide therapeutics have emerged as a promising strategy for anti-aging interventions. This is primarily due to their favorable attributes, such as low immunogenicity and cost-effective production. Peptide-based treatments have garnered widespread acceptance and interest in aging research, particularly in the context of age-related therapies. To effectively develop anti-aging treatments, a comprehensive understanding of the physicochemical characteristics of anti-aging peptides is essential. Factors such as amino acid composition, instability index, hydrophobic areas and other relevant properties significantly determine their efficacy as potential therapeutic agents. Consequently, the creation of 'AagingBase', a comprehensive database for anti-aging peptides, aims to facilitate research on aging by leveraging the potential of peptide therapies. AagingBase houses experimentally validated 282 anti-aging peptides collected from 54 research articles and 236 patents. Employing state-of-the-art computational techniques, the acquired sequences have undergone rigorous physicochemical calculations. Furthermore, AagingBase presents users with various informative analyses highlighting atomic compositions, secondary structure fractions, tertiary structure, amino acid compositions and frequencies. The database also offers advanced search and filtering options and similarity search, thereby aiding researchers in understanding their biological functions. Hence, the database enables efficient identification and prioritization of potential peptide candidates in geriatric medicine and holds immense potential for advancing geriatric medicine research and innovations. AagingBase can be accessed without any restriction. Database URL: https://project.iith.ac.in/cgntlab/aagingbase/.

Influence of the modification of the cosmetic peptide Argireline on the affinity toward copper(II) ions

Argireline (Ac-EEMQRR-NH2 ), a well-known neurotransmitter peptide with a potency similar to botulinum neurotoxins, reveals a proven affinity toward Cu(II) ions. We report herein Cu(II) chelating properties of three new Argireline derivatives, namely, AN4 (Ac-EAHRR-NH2 ), AN5 (Ac-EEHQRR-NH2 ), and AN6 (Ac-EAHQRK-NH2 ). Two complementary experimental techniques, i.e., potentiometric titration (PT) and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC), have been employed to describe the acid-base properties of the investigated peptides as well as the thermodynamic parameters of the Cu(II) complex formation. Additionally, based on density functional theory (DFT) calculations, we propose the most likely structures of the resulting Cu-peptide complexes. Finally, the cytotoxicity of the free peptides and the corresponding Cu(II) complexes was estimated in human skin cells for their possible future cosmetic application. The biological results were subsequently compared with free Argireline, its Cu(II)-complexes, and the previously studied AN2 derivative (EAHQRR).

Evaluation of GHK peptide-heparin interactions in multifunctional liposomal covering

Small biospecific peptides with defined chemical structure and cellular responses are promising alternatives to full-length therapeutic proteins. Identification of these peptides solely or in combination with other bioactive factors and determination of their targets are of substantial interest in current drug delivery research. This study is aimed at the development of new liposomal formulations of ECM-derived GHK peptide known for its multiple regeneration-related activities but poorly recognized cellular targets. In situ association of membranotropic GHK derivative with unilamellar liposomes was performed to prepare GHK-modified liposomes with defined properties. According to DLS, the GHK component on the liposomal surface interacted with heparin in a specific manner compared to other polysaccharides and RGD counterpart, whereas ITC analysis of such interactions was complicated. The results provide a useful tool for screening of bio-interactions of synthetic peptide-presenting liposomes by the DLS technique. They were also employed to produce a multi-functional nanosized GHK-heparin covering for liposomes. The resulting composite liposomes possessed low size dispersity, increased anionic charge, and mechanical rigidity. The heparin component significantly promoted the accumulation of GHK-modified liposomes in 3T3 fibroblasts so that the composite liposomes exhibited the highest cell-penetrating activity. Furthermore, the latter formulation stimulated cell proliferation and strongly inhibited ROS production and GSH depletion under oxidative stress conditions. Together, the results support that cell-surface glycosaminoglycans can be involved in GHK-mediated liposomal delivery, which can be further greatly enhanced by association with heparin. The composite liposomes with GHK-heparin covering can be considered as an advanced GHK-based formulation for therapeutic and cosmeceutical applications.

Design, synthesis, and characterization of type I collagen mimetic peptides

The current wound-healing collagen mimetic peptides (CMPs) have limitations such as poor membrane permeability and protease susceptibility. Herein, the solid-phase peptide synthesis of CMPs containing the integrin binding motif GFOGER is reported. The peptide sequences also consist of lipophilic moieties (adamantane and palmitic acid) for improved membrane permeability and different collagen-inducing tripeptides, namely, Thr-Thr-Lys (TTK), Gly-His-Lys (GHK), Gln-Pro-Arg (QPR), and Glu-Glu-Met (EEM). The synthesized peptides were successfully characterized and purified using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and preparative high-performance liquid chromatography techniques, respectively. The palmitic acid moiety increased the hydrophobic nature of the peptides, and they were retained longer on the stationary material of the reverse phase C-18 column. The three-dimensional parallel-strand helical structure of peptide DGD-GG-GFOGER-GG-TTK-palmitate was obtained using nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and circular dichroism. The synthesized peptides have the desired helical structure, which can promote integrin binding.

Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process. With age, intrinsic and extrinsic factors cause the loss of skin elasticity, with the formation of wrinkles, resulting in skin sagging through various pathways. A combination of multiple bioactive peptides could be used as a treatment for skin wrinkles and sagging.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of a multi-peptide eye serum as a daily skin-care product for improving the periocular skin of women within the ages of 20-45 years.

METHODS

The stratum corneum skin hydration and skin elasticity were assessed using a Corneometer CM825 and Skin Elastometer MPA580, respectively. The PRIMOS CR technique based on digital strip projection technology was used for skin image and wrinkle analysis around the "crow's feet" area. Self-assessment questionnaires were filled on Day 14 and 28 of product use.

RESULTS

This study included 32 subjects with an average age of 28.5 years. On Day 28, there was a significant decrease in the number, depth, and volume of wrinkles. Skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased continuously during the study period, consistent with typical anti-aging claims. A majority of the participants (75.00%) expressed overall satisfaction with their skin appearance after using the product. Most participants noted a visible skin improvement, with an increase in skin elasticity and smoothness, and confirmed the extensibility, applicability, and temperance of the product. No adverse reactions related to product use were observed.

CONCLUSIONS

The multi-peptide eye serum uses a multi-targeted mechanism against skin aging to improve the skin appearance, making it an ideal choice for daily skincare.

The Benefits of a Multimechanistic Antiaging Skin Technology

INTRODUCTION

Facial aging is a multifactorial phenomenon due to poor skin hydration, deficient intercellular communication, collagen/elastin breakdown, and oxidative stress. The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of a multimechanistic antiaging prototype formulation on the appearance of photoaged facial skin after 24 weeks of twice daily use.

METHODS

Fifty female subjects 35-65 years of age of all Fitzpatrick skin types with mild to moderate facial photoaging concerns (fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, tone and texture) were enrolled in this monadic study. Investigator and subject tolerability assessments were performed along with facial noninvasive corneometry hydration and elasticity measurements. The dermatologist investigator assessed fine lines, wrinkles, skin evenness, radiance, plumping, texture/smoothness, sagging/firming/lifting, and global appearance on a 5-point ordinal scale.

RESULTS

Forty-seven of the 50 subjects completed the study with a 19% increase in skin firmness and a 35% increase in skin hydration via bio-instrumentation readings after 24 weeks of study product use. The investigator assessed a 40% improvement in lines, a 23% improvement in wrinkles, a 42% improvement in evenness, a 64% improvement in radiance, a 58% improvement in plumping, a 65% improvement in texture, a 60% improvement in firmness, and a 45% improvement in overall appearance at 24 weeks.

CONCLUSION

The serum combination of humectants, peptides, and antioxidants yielded excellent tolerability with visual and mechanistic skin improvement beginning at 1 week with cumulative continuing improvement through 24 weeks of use in terms of hydration, firmness, texture, radiance, and fine lines.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC₅₀ lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging

BACKGROUND

Every day the skin is constantly exposed to several harmful factors that induce oxidative stress. When the cells are incapable to maintain the balance between antioxidant defenses and reactive oxygen species, the skin no longer can keep its integrity and homeostasis. Chronic inflammation, premature skin aging, tissue damage, and immunosuppression are possible consequences induced by sustained exposure to environmental and endogenous reactive oxygen species. Skin immune and non-immune cells together with the microbiome are essential to efficiently trigger skin immune responses to stress. For this reason, an ever-increasing demand for novel molecules capable of modulating immune functions in the skin has risen the level of their development, particularly in the field of natural product-derived molecules.

PURPOSE

In this review, we explore different classes of molecules that showed evidence in modulate skin immune responses, as well as their target receptors and signaling pathways. Moreover, we describe the role of polyphenols, polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, and probiotics as possible treatments for skin conditions, including wound healing, infection, inflammation, allergies, and premature skin aging.

METHODS

Literature was searched, analyzed, and collected using databases, including PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar. The search terms used included "Skin", "wound healing", "natural products", "skin microbiome", "immunomodulation", "anti-inflammatory", "antioxidant", "infection", "UV radiation", "polyphenols", "polysaccharides", "fatty acids", "plant oils", "peptides", "antimicrobial peptides", "probiotics", "atopic dermatitis", "psoriasis", "auto-immunity", "dry skin", "aging", etc., and several combinations of these keywords.

RESULTS

Natural products offer different solutions as possible treatments for several skin conditions. Significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were reported, followed by the ability to modulate immune functions in the skin. Several membrane-bound immune receptors in the skin recognize diverse types of natural-derived molecules, promoting different immune responses that can improve skin conditions.

CONCLUSION

Despite the increasing progress in drug discovery, several limiting factors need future clarification. Understanding the safety, biological activities, and precise mechanisms of action is a priority as well as the characterization of the active compounds responsible for that. This review provides directions for future studies in the development of new molecules with important pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical value.

Strategic Approaches to Improvise Peptide Drugs as Next Generation Therapeutics

In recent years, the occurrence of a wide variety of drug-resistant diseases has led to an increase in interest in alternate therapies. Peptide-based drugs as an alternate therapy hold researchers' attention in various therapeutic fields such as neurology, dermatology, oncology, metabolic diseases, etc. Previously, they had been overlooked by pharmaceutical companies due to certain limitations such as proteolytic degradation, poor membrane permeability, low oral bioavailability, shorter half-life, and poor target specificity. Over the last two decades, these limitations have been countered by introducing various modification strategies such as backbone and side-chain modifications, amino acid substitution, etc. which improve their functionality. This has led to a substantial interest of researchers and pharmaceutical companies, moving the next generation of these therapeutics from fundamental research to the market. Various chemical and computational approaches are aiding the production of more stable and long-lasting peptides guiding the formulation of novel and advanced therapeutic agents. However, there is not a single article that talks about various peptide design approaches i.e., in-silico and in-vitro along with their applications and strategies to improve their efficacy. In this review, we try to bring different aspects of peptide-based therapeutics under one article with a clear focus to cover the missing links in the literature. This review draws emphasis on various in-silico approaches and modification-based peptide design strategies. It also highlights the recent progress made in peptide delivery methods important for their enhanced clinical efficacy. The article would provide a bird's-eye view to researchers aiming to develop peptides with therapeutic applications.

Graphical Abstract

High Stability and Low Irritation of Retinol Propionate and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Supramolecular Nanoparticles with Effective Anti-Wrinkle Efficacy

Gravi-A nanoparticles, composed of retinyl propionate (RP) and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), were prepared by encapsulating the two using the high-pressure homogenization technique. The nanoparticles are effective in anti-wrinkle treatment with high stability and low irritation. We evaluated the effect of different process parameters on nanoparticle preparation. Supramolecular technology effectively produced nanoparticles with spherical shapes with an average size of 101.1 nm. The encapsulation efficiency was in the 97.98–98.35% range. The system showed a sustained release profile for reducing the irritation caused by Gravi-A nanoparticles. Furthermore, applying lipid nanoparticle encapsulation technology improved the transdermal efficiency of the nanoparticles, thereby allowing these to penetrate deep into the dermis layer to achieve precise and sustained release of active ingredients. Gravi-A nanoparticles can be extensively and conveniently used in cosmetics and other related formulations by direct application.

Synergistic Antimicrobial Action of Lactoferrin-Derived Peptides and Quorum Quenching Enzymes

Combined use of various antimicrobial peptides (AMPs) with enzymes that hydrolyze the signaling molecules of the resistance mechanism of various microorganisms, quorum sensing (QS), to obtain effective antimicrobials is one of the leading approaches in solving the antimicrobial resistance problem. Our study investigates the lactoferrin-derived AMPs, lactoferricin (Lfcin), lactoferampin and Lf(1-11), as potential partners for combination with enzymes hydrolyzing lactone-containing QS molecules, the hexahistidine-containing organophosphorus hydrolase (His6-OPH) and penicillin acylase, to obtain effective antimicrobial agents with a scope of practical application. The possibility of the effective combination of selected AMPs and enzymes was first investigated in silico using molecular docking method. Based on the computationally obtained results, His6-OPH/Lfcin combination was selected as the most suitable for further research. The study of physical-chemical characteristics of His6-OPH/Lfcin combination revealed the stabilization of enzymatic activity. A notable increase in the catalytic efficiency of action of His6-OPH in combination with Lfcin in the hydrolysis of paraoxon, N-(3-oxo-dodecanoyl)-homoserine lactone and zearalenone used as substrates was established. Antimicrobial efficiency of His6-OPH/Lfcin combination was determined against various microorganisms (bacteria and yeasts) and its improvement was observed as compared to AMP without enzyme. Thus, our findings demonstrate that His6-OPH/Lfcin combination is a promising antimicrobial agent for practical application.

Peptide-pro complex serum: Investigating effects on aged skin

BACKGROUND

Effective anti-aging treatments are an unmet consumer need.

AIM

Ex vivoand clinical tests have evaluated the efficacy of a topical facial serum containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts on aged skin.

METHODS

In the ex vivo study the facial serum was compared to a commercially marketed face serum and to an untreated control on skin explants using microrelief, smoothness, and epidermal thickness endpoints. The 12 weeks monadic clinical study was designed for the test product to be used on the whole face. Subjects functioned as their own control; evaluating change from baseline. Skin was evaluated clinically by a Dermatologist for tolerability and for efficacy. Also part of the product assessment was skin hydration measurements, imaging, and a subject questionnaire.

RESULTS

The facial serum improved skin condition by significant reductions in skin surface area occupied by microfolds and in skin roughness. Additionally, it increased epidermal thickness as compared to the untreated control as well as the commercially marketed face serum. The facial serum provided a statistically increased skin moisturization compared to pretreatment values. Dermatological evaluation of the skin concluded that there were statistically and clinically significant improvements in skin smoothness, wrinkles severity, fine lines visibility and lifting, and tightening effects at crow's feet area, forehead, and upper lip.

CONCLUSION

A facial serum, containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts, has been shown to improve the overall quality of aged skin in a series of ex vivo and clinical tests.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

Efficient transdermal delivery of functional protein cargoes by a hydrophobic peptide MTD 1067

The skin has a protective barrier against the external environment, making the transdermal delivery of active macromolecules very difficult. Cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) have been accepted as useful delivery tools owing to their high transduction efficiency and low cytotoxicity. In this study, we evaluated the hydrophobic peptide, macromolecule transduction domain 1067 (MTD 1067) as a CPP for the transdermal delivery of protein cargoes of various sizes, including growth hormone-releasing hexapeptide-6 (GHRP-6), a truncated form of insulin-like growth factor-I (des(1-3)IGF-I), and platelet-derived growth factor BB (PDGF-BB). The MTD 1067-conjugated GHRP-6 (MTD-GHRP-6) was chemically synthesized, whereas the MTD 1067-conjugated des(1-3)IGF-I and PDGF-BB proteins (MTD-des(1-3)IGF-I and MTD-PDGF-BB) were generated as recombinant proteins. All the MTD 1067-conjugated cargoes exhibited biological activities identical or improved when compared to those of the original cargoes. The analysis of confocal microscopy images showed that MTD-GHRP-6, MTD-des(1-3)IGF-I, and MTD-PDGF-BB were detected at 4.4-, 18.8-, and 32.9-times higher levels in the dermis, respectively, compared to the control group without MTD. Furthermore, the MTD 1067-conjugated cargoes did not show cytotoxicity. Altogether, our data demonstrate the potential of MTD 1067 conjugation in developing functional macromolecules for cosmetics and drugs with enhanced transdermal permeability.

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance

The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. Since peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.

NGIWY-Amide: A Bioinspired Ultrashort Self-Assembled Peptide Gelator for Local Drug Delivery Applications

Fibrillar structures derived from plant or animal origin have long been a source of inspiration for the design of new biomaterials. The Asn-Gly-Ile-Trp-Tyr-NH2 (NGIWY-amide) pentapeptide, isolated from the sea cucumber Apostichopus japonicus, which spontaneously self-assembles in water to form hydrogel, pertains to this category. In this study, we evaluated this ultra-short cosmetic bioinspired peptide as vector for local drug delivery applications. Combining nuclear magnetic resonance, circular dichroism, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and rheological studies, the synthesized pentapeptide formed a stiff hydrogel with a high β-sheet content. Molecular dynamic simulations aligned well with scanning electron and atomic-force microscopy studies, revealing a highly filamentous structure with the fibers adopting a helical-twisted morphology. Model dye localization within the supramolecular hydrogel provided insights on the preferential distribution of hydrophobic and hydrophilic compounds in the hydrogel network. That was further depicted in the diffusion kinetics of drugs differing in their aqueous solubility and molecular weight, namely, doxorubicin hydrochloride, curcumin, and octreotide acetate, highlighting its versatility as a delivery vector of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic compounds of different molecular weight. Along with the observed cytocompatibility of the hydrogel, the NGIWY-amide pentapeptide may offer new approaches for cell growth, drug delivery, and 3D bioprinting tissue-engineering applications.

Anti-ageing peptides and proteins for topical applications: a review

Skin ageing is a cumulative result of oxidative stress, predominantly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Respiration, pollutants, toxins, or ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation produce ROS with 80% of skin damage attributed to UVA irradiation. Anti-ageing peptides and proteins are considered valuable compounds for removing ROS to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health. In this review, skin ageing theory has been illustrated with a focus on the mechanism and relationship with anti-ageing peptides and proteins. The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed. Over the last decade, several novel formulations and advanced strategies have been developed to overcome the challenges in the dermal delivery of proteins and peptides for skin ageing. This article also provides an in-depth review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides. Based on these studies, this review prospected several semi-solid dosage forms to achieve topical applicability for anti-ageing peptides and proteins.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Peptides and Peptidomimetics as Inhibitors of Enzymes Involved in Fibrillar Collagen Degradation

Collagen fibres degradation is a complex process involving a variety of enzymes. Fibrillar collagens, namely type I, II, and III, are the most widely spread collagens in human body, e.g., they are responsible for tissue fibrillar structure and skin elasticity. Nevertheless, the hyperactivity of fibrotic process and collagen accumulation results with joints, bone, heart, lungs, kidneys or liver fibroses. Per contra, dysfunctional collagen turnover and its increased degradation leads to wound healing disruption, skin photoaging, and loss of firmness and elasticity. In this review we described the main enzymes participating in collagen degradation pathway, paying particular attention to enzymes degrading fibrillar collagen. Therefore, collagenases (MMP-1, -8, and -13), elastases, and cathepsins, together with their peptide and peptidomimetic inhibitors, are reviewed. This information, related to the design and synthesis of new inhibitors based on peptide structure, can be relevant for future research in the fields of chemistry, biology, medicine, and cosmeceuticals.

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

A Global Review on Short Peptides: Frontiers and Perspectives

Peptides are fragments of proteins that carry out biological functions. They act as signaling entities via all domains of life and interfere with protein-protein interactions, which are indispensable in bio-processes. Short peptides include fundamental molecular information for a prelude to the symphony of life. They have aroused considerable interest due to their unique features and great promise in innovative bio-therapies. This work focusing on the current state-of-the-art short peptide-based therapeutical developments is the first global review written by researchers from all continents, as a celebration of 100 years of peptide therapeutics since the commencement of insulin therapy in the 1920s. Peptide "drugs" initially played only the role of hormone analogs to balance disorders. Nowadays, they achieve numerous biomedical tasks, can cross membranes, or reach intracellular targets. The role of peptides in bio-processes can hardly be mimicked by other chemical substances. The article is divided into independent sections, which are related to either the progress in short peptide-based theranostics or the problems posing challenge to bio-medicine. In particular, the SWOT analysis of short peptides, their relevance in therapies of diverse diseases, improvements in (bio)synthesis platforms, advanced nano-supramolecular technologies, aptamers, altered peptide ligands and in silico methodologies to overcome peptide limitations, modern smart bio-functional materials, vaccines, and drug/gene-targeted delivery systems are discussed.