Design and Engineering of "Green" Nanoemulsions for Enhanced Topical Delivery of Bakuchiol Achieved in a Sustainable Manner: A Novel Eco-Friendly Approach to Bioretinol

Assessment of the Anti-Acne Properties of Some Medicinal Plants and Development of an Herbal Anti-Acne Formulation

Background: Acne is a prevalent dermatological condition characterized by the blockage of hair follicles and sebaceous glands, leading to the formation of acne. The anaerobe pathogen Cutibacterium acnes (formerly known as Propionibacterium acnes) plays an essential role in the pathogenesis of acne, for which generally antimicrobial treatment is required. Acne is a substantial health concern, and continuing research is being conducted to discover novel and efficacious remedies. The antimicrobial activity of plants has been demonstrated in numerous studies, and they are still targeted organisms in drug development. Studies showing that plants are effective against acne pathogens have also been reported. Methods: The antimicrobial activity of the hydroethanolic extracts prepared from 30 plant species was determined against C. acnes standard strains (C. acnes Scholz and Kilian ATCC 11827 and ATCC 11828) and 30 clinical isolates in our preliminary screening. Since acne is an inflammatory skin disease, the anti-inflammatory effect of six active extracts against C. acnes was determined through the in vitro inhibition of collagenase, lipoxygenase (LOX), hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase (XO) enzymes. Results: Cotinus coggygria Scop. leaf extract displayed the highest hyaluronidase and collagenase inhibition (79.75% and 52.52%, respectively), while the extract from the aerial parts of Helichrysum arenarium (L.) Moench demonstrated a potent XO inhibitory effect (82.51%). Therefore, these two extracts have been chosen for further studies, and LC/MS-MS was used to determine the phenolic profiles of these extracts. Conclusions: Subsequently, nanoemulgels were formulated with the active extracts to develop a prototype herbal anti-acne product, and characterization studies of the formulations were conducted.

Herbal nanoemulsions in cosmetic science: A comprehensive review of design, preparation, formulation, and characterization

The rapid development of delivery systems for cosmetics has revealed two critical challenges in the field: enhancing the solubility of active ingredients and ensuring the stability of natural materials used in cosmetics. Nanoemulsion technology has emerged as an indispensable solution for addressing these challenges, not only enhancing the stability of cosmetics but also improving the solubility of pharmaceuticals and active ingredients with poor solubility. Nanoemulsion formulations have reinforced stability and amended the bioavailability of hydrophobic drugs. Moreover, nanoemulsion exhibit excellent skin penetration and long-lasting effects, making them particularly appealing to consumers, especially in the cosmetic industry. This article aims to provide an overview of herbal nanoemulsion formulations as cosmetic products, covering formulation, production, and characterization. Herbal nanoemulsions is an effective, stable, and promising option for cosmetic delivery. The nanoemulsions were characterized by their key properties, such as particle size, polydisperse index (PDI), zeta potential, viscosity, stability and others. Techniques like zeta potential measurement, transmission electron microscopy (TEM) and scanning electronmicroscopy (SEM) were used to analyze the surface morphology, whereas stability tests were employed to evaluate nanoemulsion performance. This review also delves into the high-energy and the low-energy methods of manufacturing nanoemulsions. Additionally, we also explore the selection of appropriate surfactants, co-surfactants, and ingredients for creating herbal nanoemulsions with desirable attributes and qualities. Overall, this review consolidates the current knowledge on herbal nanoemulsion formulations for cosmetic preparations, designs, shedding light on their effectiveness, characteristics, and stability. These formulations hold promise in overcoming challenges related to meeting the increasing demand for effective herbal nanoemulsion and high-quality cosmetic products.

Unveiling New Horizons: Advancing Technologies in Cosmeceuticals for Anti-Aging Solutions

In the last years, the landscape of anti-aging cosmetics has been marked by significant advances in cosmeceutical delivery systems. This study aimed to conduct a systematic review of these technological innovations, with a focus on anti-aging effects, from 2018 to 2023. The methodology included a thorough search on PubMed and through gray literature, applying rigorous exclusion criteria. The descriptors were selected based on the Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). A total of 265 articles were found. Exclusion criteria were applied, and 90 of them were selected for full reading. After reading the full 90 articles, 52 were excluded, leaving 38 articles for final evaluation composing this review. The key findings highlighted a clear prevalence of studies exploring nanotechnology, including nanoparticles, niosomes, and liposomes. Most of the formulations analyzed in this review emphasize antioxidant activities, which play a crucial role in preventing premature aging caused by free radicals. The reviewed studies revealed specific activities, such as the reduction in melanin synthesis, the inhibition of enzymes involved in the skin aging process, and the prevention of morphological changes typical of aging.

Multifunctional targeting of docetaxel plus bakuchiol micelles in the treatment of invasion and metastasis of ovarian cancer

The invasion and metastasis of tumors pose significant challenges in the treatment of ovarian cancer (OC), making it difficult to cure. One potential treatment approach that has gained attention is the use of matrix metalloproteinase reactive controlled release micelle preparations. In this study, we developed a novel PEG5000-PVGLIG-hyaluronic acid docetaxel/bakuchiol (PP-HA-DTX/BAK) micelles formulation with desirable characteristics such as particle size, narrow polydispersity index, and a ZETA potential of approximately -5 mV. The surface modification with HA facilitates tumor penetration into the tumor interior, while the incorporation of DSPE-PEG2000-PVGLIG-PEG5000helps conceal DSPE-PEG2000-HA, reducing off-target effects and prolonging drug circulation timein vivo. Bothin vitroandin vivoexperiments demonstrated that these micelles effectively inhibit proliferation, invasion, and metastasis of OC cells while promoting apoptosis. Therefore, our findings suggest that PP-HA-DTX/BAK micelles represent a safe and effective therapeutic strategy for treating OC.

Sustainable Alternatives to Petroleum-Derived Excipients in Pharmaceutical Oil-in-Water Creams

Recently, vast efforts towards sustainability have been made in the pharmaceutical industry. In conventional oil-in-water (O/W) cream formulations, various petroleum-based excipients, namely mineral oil and petrolatum, are commonly used. Natural or synthetic excipients, derived from vegetable sources, were explored as alternatives to petroleum-based excipients in prototype topical creams, with 1% (w/w) lidocaine. A conventional cream comprised of petroleum-derived excipients was compared to creams containing sustainable excipients in terms of key quality and performance attributes, physicochemical properties, and formulation performance. The petrolatum-based control formulation had the highest viscosity of 248.0 Pa·s, a melting point of 42.7°C, a low separation index at 25°C of 0.031, and an IVRT flux of 52.9 µg/cm2/h. Formulation SUS-4 was the least viscous formulation at 86.9 Pa·s, had the lowest melting point of 33.6°C, the highest separation index of 0.120, and the highest IVRT flux of 139.4 µg/cm2/h. Alternatively, SUS-5 had a higher viscosity of 131.3 Pa·s, a melting point of 43.6°C, a low separation index of 0.046, and the lowest IVRT flux of 25.2 µg/cm2/h. The cumulative drug permeation after 12 h from SUS-4, SUS-5, and the control were 126.2 µg/cm2, 113.8 µg/cm2, and 108.1 µg/cm2, respectively. The composition of the oil-in-water creams had influence on physicochemical properties and drug release; however, skin permeation was not impacted. Sustainable natural or synthetic excipients in topical cream formulations were found to be suitable alternatives to petroleum-based excipients with comparable key quality attributes and performance attributes and should be considered during formulation development.

Evaluating the effects of surfactant types on the properties and stability of oil-in-water Rhodiola rosea nanoemulsion

Different types and ratios of surfactant, co-surfactant, and oil phase, have a greater impact on nanoemulsion preparation. The presence of surfactants in the nanoemulsion can reduce surface tension and characteristic stability. In this study, four groups of oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions (NEs) with different ratios of surfactant and co-surfactant, and two oils were formulated as carriers of Rhodiola rosea. The variable optimization was investigated and then indicated as optimization group A (Opt A) with the formula of 10% of transcutol, 16.63% of tween 80, Opt B with 10% of tween 80, 29.87% of span 80, Opt C with 28.42% of transcutol, 30% of labrasol, and Opt D with 30% of transcutol, 30% of tween 80. Labrafac and soybean oil were used as the oil phase. The optimized formula using the response surface method (RSM) by design expert software showed the ideal conditions with a higher desirability score. Desirability score are 0.72% (Opt A), 0.81% (Opt B), 0.76% (Opt C) and 0.98% (Opt D), the desirability rating close to 1 indicates a high possibility that the projected values would closely match the experimental results for the optimum formula. All of the optimized formulation were also checked for the characteristics of nanoemulsion including particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, viscosity, encapsulation efficiency, transmission electron microscope (TEM), antioxidant activity, skin irritation test and stability studies. Our study provides a promising combination of surfactant-co-surfactant and oil phases to produce a stable nanoemulsion that can be used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics in the future.

Assessment of anti-psoriatic activity of bakuchiol-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles-based gel: design, characterization, and mechanistic insight via NF-kB signaling pathway

The aim of the current study is to evaluate the anti-psoriatic potential of bakuchiol (Bak) loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) via modulating inflammatory and oxidative pathways. Bak-loaded SLNs were prepared using hot homogenization method and characterized by various spectroscopic techniques. Bak-SLNs suspension was formulated into gel using Carbopol. Different in vivo assays were executed to explore the role of inflammatory markers and oxidative enzymes in psoriasis. DLS (dynamic light scattering) analysis showed suitable particle size, zeta potential, and polydispersity index (PDI) of developed formulation. TEM (transmission electron microscopy) reveal the spherical shape of Bak-SLNs particles. The release studies confirmed the sustained release of Bak-SLNs-based gel. UV-B-induced psoriatic Wistar rat model showed significant anti-psoriatic effect of Bak via regulating inflammatory markers (NF-kB, IL-6, IL-4, and IL-10) and levels of anti-oxidant enzymes, superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione (GSH), and glutathione-S-transferase (GST). Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis confirms that Bak downregulates the expression of inflammatory markers, while histology and immunohistology results also confirm the anti-psoriatic effect of Bak. The study indicates that Bak-loaded SLNs-based gel significantly downregulates the level of cytokines and interleukins involve in NF-kB signaling cascade; hence, it can prove to be a novel therapeutic approach to cure psoriasis.

Development of a new chromatographic method for the determination of bakuchiol in cosmetic products

The aim of this study was to develop and validate a simple, fast, and universal reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography method with fluorescence detection for the quantitation and evaluation of the stability of bakuchiol in cosmetic products. The analyte was extracted by tetrahydrofuran and separated on a Zorbax Eclipse Plus C18 analytical column (100 × 4.6 mm, 3.5 μm particle size) by a gradient elution program with the mobile phase consisting of water and acetonitrile and a flow rate of 1.0 mL min-1. The column temperature was held at 25 °C and fluorescence detection was performed at excitation and emission wavelengths of 264 and 338 nm, respectively. The stability studies of bakuchiol in cosmetic products were conducted under various conditions, including thermal and photolytic degradation, according to International Conference on Harmonization Guidelines. The calibration curve was linear in the range of 0.5-50.0 μg g-1 with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.9999. The limits of detection and quantification of the method were 0.1 and 0.5 μg g-1, respectively. Recovery values were in the range of 93.37-106.39 μg g-1, with relative standard deviations less than 6%. The method has been successfully applied to analyze different types of cosmetic products and proved to be reliable.

Formation and structural features of micelles formed by surfactin homologues

Surfactin, a group of cyclic lipopeptides produced by Bacillus subtilis, possesses surfactant properties and is a promising natural and biologically active compound. In this study, we present a comprehensive characterization of surfactin, including its production, chromatographic separation into pure homologues (C₁₂, C₁₃, C₁₄, C₁₅), and investigation of their physicochemical properties. We determined adsorption isotherms and interpreted them using the Gibbs adsorption equation, revealing that the C₁₅ homologue exhibited the strongest surface tension reduction (27.5 mN/m), while surface activity decreased with decreasing carbon chain length (32.2 mN/m for C₁₂). Critical micelle concentration (CMC) were also determined, showing a decrease in CMC values from 0.35 mM for C₁₂ to 0.08 mM for C₁₅. We employed dynamic light scattering (DLS), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and density functional theory (DFT) calculations to estimate the size of micellar aggregates, which increased with longer carbon chains, ranging from 4.7 nm for C₁₂ to 5.7 nm for C₁₅. Furthermore, aggregation numbers were determined, revealing the number of molecules in a micelle. Contact angles and emulsification indexes (E₂₄) were measured to assess the functional properties of the homologues, showing that wettability increased with chain length up to C₁₄, which is intriguing as C₁₄ is the most abundant homologue. Our findings highlight the relationship between the structure and properties of surfactin, providing valuable insights for understanding its biological significance and potential applications in various industries. Moreover, the methodology developed in this study can be readily applied to other cyclic lipopeptides, facilitating a better understanding of their structure-properties relationship.

Synthesis and new skin-relevant properties of the salicylic acid ester of bakuchiol

Bakusylan (bakuchiol salicylate) is a bipartite compound obtained by merging two skin-active entities with complementary bioactivities-bakuchiol and salicylic acid-for the purpose of generating a new class of functional retinoids with enhanced skin benefits. Here, we describe its preparation process and report that pure bakusylan exhibits potential for an improved permeation through the stratum corneum, enhances type IV collagen gene expression in organotypic skin substitutes containing both epidermal and dermal layers, and upregulates this protein in adult human dermal fibroblast cultures. The mechanism of action underlying these effects appears to involve the components of the IP3K/Akt signaling pathway selectively implicated in the maintenance of skin integrity, further underlying the suitability of this ester for skin care applications requiring enhanced cutaneous permeation targeting the dermal-epidermal junction.

Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature

BACKGROUND

Bakuchiol (BAK), a meroterpene phenol abundant in the plant Psoralea corylifolia, is an emerging cosmeceutical agent with promising anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. The trend for "clean" skincare products and search for anti-aging retinoid alternatives have poised BAK as a "must-have" ingredient in skincare.

AIMS

Our aim was to review the data for the applications of BAK in dermatology.

METHODS

This is a systematic review of PubMed.

RESULTS

Thirty articles matched our search terms ["Bakuchiol" and "Dermatology"] or ["Bakuchiol" and "Skin"] of which one did not meet inclusion criteria, 16 were pre-clinical studies, seven clinical studies, three commentaries, two narrative reviews, and one report on adverse events. BAK has been mostly studied for its effects on photoaging, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), showing beneficial results comparable to those achieved by topical retinoids. While having no structural resemblance to retinoids, BAK can function as a retinol analog, through retinol-like regulation of gene expression. In in vivo studies, BAK was used alone or in combination with other products resulting in a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, wrinkle scores, and acne severity. Additionally, in vitro studies hinted at its anti-cancer properties by inhibiting epidermal growth factor induced neoplastic cell transformation. Also, demonstrated potential applications in psoriasis by normalizing keratinocyte activity and in pigmentary disorders through inhibition of melanogenesis. There was one adverse event case reported of contact dermatitis in the literature.

CONCLUSIONS

Bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Additional studies are warranted to better understand its applications in dermatology.

Bakuchiol - a natural meroterpenoid: structure, isolation, synthesis and functionalization approaches

Bakuchiol is an emblematic meroterpene class of natural product extracted from Psoralea corylifolia. It has been reported to possess a broad range of biological and pharmacological properties and is considered as a leading biomolecule. It is highly desirable to devise an efficient approach to access bakuchiol and its chemical biology applications. In this review we provided structural features, isolation methods, various chemical routes and late-stage functionalization (LSF) approaches for bakuchiol and its derivatives. Moreover, this review encompasses the structure-activity relationships (SAR), value-added contributions and future perspectives of bakuchiol.