Ultraviolet protective performance of photoprotective lipsticks: change of spectral transmittance because of ultraviolet exposure

Lignin Nanoparticles as Sustainable Photoprotective Carriers for Sunscreen Filters

Sunscreen filters may be degraded after prolonged UV exposure with loss of their shielding property and generation of harmful radical species. They are contained in cosmetic formulations in high concentrations, so the improvement of photostability is of relevance for safety concerns. We report here that lignin nanoparticles are sustainable carriers and photostabilizers of two common UV chemical filters, namely, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate. These compounds have been encapsulated by nanoprecipitation into kraft lignin nanoparticles using eco-certified dimethyl isosorbide as a primary solvent and deionized water as an antisolvent. After the encapsulation, both compounds significantly prolonged the half-life stability against UV irradiation. The stabilizing properties of lignin nanoparticles were further improved by coencapsulation of avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate with hydroxytyrosol, a natural phenol with antioxidant activity recovered from olive oil wastes and characterized by skin regenerative properties.

Suboptimal UVA attenuation by broad spectrum sunscreens under outdoor solar conditions contributes to lifetime UVA burden

BACKGROUND

Broad spectrum sunscreens with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or greater are indicated to decrease the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun if used as directed with other sun protection measures. To determine whether sunscreen product performance is compromised under solar exposure and to test spectral uniformity of protection across the UVA spectrum, we tested broad spectrum sunscreens with a variety of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and in a variety of dosage forms.

METHODS

A cross-sectional market survey of 32 sunscreen drug products containing either organic or inorganic APIs with SPFs of 15, 30, 50, and 70 was tested. UV doses were delivered via natural sun in Silver Spring, Maryland between June and September of 2017.

RESULTS

Of the 32 sunscreen drug products, 6 products failed to meet their broad spectrum claim under solar exposure. Using FDA's new proposal to strengthen sunscreen broad spectrum requirements, spectral uniformity based on the mean sunscreen absorbance of UVA1(340-400 nm)/UV (290-400 nm) indicated that ~40% of sunscreen drug products tested had suboptimal UVA protection.

CONCLUSION

US consumers may unknowingly be receiving up to 36% more transmitted UVA when selecting between similarly labeled broad spectrum sunscreen drug products with equivalent SPF values. FDA's new proposal may help decrease consumers' overall lifetime UVA burden. Spectral absorbance data on sunscreen performance can be used to further improve the coupling of broad spectrum protection to a product's SPF value so that consumers have improved proportional increases in UV protection.

Transformation of benzophenone-type UV filters by chlorine: Kinetics, products identification and toxicity assessments

The present study focused on the kinetics, transformation pathways and toxicity of several benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters (BPs) during the water chlorination disinfection process. The transformation kinetics of the studied three BPs was found to be second-order reaction, which was dependent on the concentration of BPs and chlorine. The second-order rate constants increased from 86.7 to 975 M(-1) s(-1) for oxybenzone, 49.6-261.7 M(-1) s(-1) for 4-hydroxybenzophenone and 51.7-540 M(-1) s(-1) for 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid with the increasing pH value from 6 to 8 of the chlorination disinfection condition. Then the transformation products (TPs) of these BPs were identified by HPLC-QTof analysis. Several transformation pathways, including electrophilic substitution, methoxyl substitution, ketone groups oxidation, hydrolysis, decarboxylation and ring cleavage reaction, were speculated to participate in the chlorination transformation process. Finally, according to the toxicity experiment on luminescent bacteria, Photobacterium phosphoreum, enhanced toxicity was observed for almost all the TPs of the studied BPs except for 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone; it suggested the formation of TPs with more toxic than the parent compounds during the chlorination process. The present study provided a foundation to understand the transformation of BPs during chlorination disinfection process, and was of great significance to the drinking water safety.

Photon Harvesting in Sunscreen-Based Functional Nanoparticles

The ultraviolet light component in the solar spectrum is known to cause several harmful effects, such as allergy, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Thus, current research attention has been paid to the design and fundamental understanding of sunscreen-based materials. One of the most abundantly used sunscreen molecules is Avobenzone (AB), which exhibits two tautomers. Here, we highlight the preparation of spherically shaped nanoparticles from the sunscreen molecule AB as well as from sunscreen-molecule-encapsulated polymer nanoparticles in aqueous media and study their fundamental photophysical properties by steady-state and time-resolved spectroscopy. Steady-state studies confirm that the AB molecule is in the keto and enol forms in tetrahydrofuran, whereas the enol form is stable in the case of both AB nanoparticles and AB-encapsulated poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) nanoparticles. Thus, the keto-enol transformation of AB molecules is restricted to a nanoenvironment. An enhancement of photostability in both the nanoparticle and PMMA-encapsulated forms under UV light irradiation is observed. The efficient excited energy transfer (60 %) from AB to porphyrin molecules opens up further prospects in potential applications as light-harvesting systems.

Brazilian consensus on photoprotection

Brazil is a country of continental dimensions with a large heterogeneity of climates and massive mixing of the population. Almost the entire national territory is located between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, and the Earth axial tilt to the south certainly makes Brazil one of the countries of the world with greater extent of land in proximity to the sun. The Brazilian coastline, where most of its population lives, is more than 8,500 km long. Due to geographic characteristics and cultural trends, Brazilians are among the peoples with the highest annual exposure to the sun. Epidemiological data show a continuing increase in the incidence of non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Photoprotection can be understood as a set of measures aimed at reducing sun exposure and at preventing the development of acute and chronic actinic damage. Due to the peculiarities of Brazilian territory and culture, it would not be advisable to replicate the concepts of photoprotection from other developed countries, places with completely different climates and populations. Thus the Brazilian Society of Dermatology has developed the Brazilian Consensus on Photoprotection, the first official document on photoprotection developed in Brazil for Brazilians, with recommendations on matters involving photoprotection.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.

Aggregate consumer exposure to UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate via personal care products

Ultraviolet (UV) filters are substances designed to protect our skin from UV-induced damage and can be found in many categories of personal care products (PCPs). The potential endocrine-disrupting effects attributed to UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) are being debated. We evaluated the aggregate exposure of the Swiss-German population (N=1196; ages ≤1-97years) to EHMC via the use of PCPs; thus we provide the first comprehensive information about the current EHMC exposure sources and aggregate exposure levels. In our probabilistic modeling method performed at an individual level, PCP use data obtained by a postal questionnaire were linked to concentration data on EHMC gained from chemical analyses of PCPs used by the questionnaire respondents. The modeled median and 99.9th percentile of the internal aggregate exposure for the general population were 0.012 and 0.873mgday(-1)kg(-1) and 0.008 and 0.122mgday(-1)kg(-1) for the summer/autumn and winter/spring period, respectively. The major contributors to internal aggregate exposure were sunscreen products in summer/autumn (females: 64%; males: 85%; children aged ≤12years 93%). In winter/spring, lip care dominated for females (30%) and sunscreen for males (38%) and children aged ≤12years (50%). Overall, the internal aggregate exposure estimates for the studied population are shown to be below the Derived No Effect Level (DNEL) for EHMC i.e., the level of exposure above which humans should not be exposed; however, when an intense short-term exposure via sunscreen is accounted for during a sunbathing day, at the high-end percentiles (99.9th) the predicted aggregate exposure exceeds the DNEL for thyroid-disrupting effects such as for children aged ≤4years, who might be particularly susceptible to endocrine disrupting events. It is nevertheless critical to acknowledge that quantitative data on transdermal penetration of EHMC from PCPs are currently insufficient. Since long-term effects of endocrine disruptors are not known, future studies are warranted to provide accurate quantitative data on transdermal penetration of EHMC and to determine its metabolic fate in humans.

Sunscreens and occupation: the Austrian experience

Since the nineteen fifties the attitude of the fair-skinned world population towards the sun has changed dramatically. Tanned skin, which before was regarded as the stigma of the underprivileged working classes, became fashionable and desirable. The science of photoprotection primarily focuses on ultraviolet exposure during leisure time activities, whereas ultraviolet radiation is still underestimated as a risk factor for UV-induced skin and eye problems. The actual discussion on the registration of UV-induced skin tumours as occupational diseases, however, has drawn more attention to this important issue. Ambient radiation, the working process itself and the photoprotective behaviour of an outdoor worker are the main factors which influence the actual UV exposure. However, the total risk for the development of actinic damage results from the interaction of both the occupational and the leisure time exposure. It is evident that there is a high need for photoprotective measures for outdoor workers. Topical sunscreens as a part of a comprehensive UV protection strategy for outdoor workers have to fulfil special requirements: reasonable price, high water resistance, non-sticky appearance. At present only a few products are available which meet these criteria. This is the reason why sunscreens are not so well accepted by outdoor workers. Great efforts have to be undertaken to improve sunscreen formulations and to convince people to apply them correctly and regularly.

UVA protection labeling and in vitro testing methods

The importance of adequate UVA protection is apparent with improved understanding of UVA-induced skin damage. This has led to the development of new sunscreen ingredients. A number of regulatory bodies or experts from the industry and academia have proposed methods to assess the efficacy of sunscreens against UVA radiation. In addition different proposals have been made regarding the labeling for UVA protection. The purpose of this paper is to describe several in vitro methods for measuring UVA protection of sunscreen products and to consider their validity. The different proposals in terms of UVA labeling are also presented and discussed. This review illustrates the need for standardization of the measurement conditions and harmonization to convey to consumers the most appropriate information on UVA protection.

[UV Filters. State of the art]

This article describes the basic principles of photoprotection with classic sunscreens containing chemical and/or physical UV filters and standard methods of sun protection factor (SPF) determination. In addition, the new governmental regulations and recommendations of the European Commission for photoprotection are presented and compared to regulations in other regions of the world. Finally, the efficacy of sunscreens in sunlight-induced non-sunburn effects, such as immune suppression and carcinogenesis are discussed.

Photostability of commercial sunscreens upon sun exposure and irradiation by ultraviolet lamps

Background

Sunscreens are being widely used to reduce exposure to harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The fact that some sunscreens are photounstable has been known for many years. Since the UV-absorbing ingredients of sunscreens may be photounstable, especially in the long wavelength region, it is of great interest to determine their degradation during exposure to UV radiation. Our aim was to investigate the photostability of seven commercial sunscreen products after natural UV exposure (UVnat) and artificial UV exposure (UVart).

Methods

Seven commercial sunscreens were studied with absorption spectroscopy. Sunscreen product, 0.5 mg/cm², was placed between plates of silica. The area under the curve (AUC) in the spectrum was calculated for UVA (320–400 nm), UVA1 (340–400 nm), UVA2 (320–340 nm) and UVB (290–320 nm) before (AUC_before) and after (AUC_after) UVart (980 kJ/m² UVA and 12 kJ/m² of UVB) and before and after UVnat. If theAUC Index (AUCI), defined as AUCI = AUC_after/AUC_before, was > 0.80, the sunscreen was considered photostable.

Results

Three sunscreens were unstable after 90 min of UVnat; in the UVA range the AUCI was between 0.41 and 0.76. In the UVB range one of these sunscreens was unstable with an AUCI of 0.75 after 90 min. Three sunscreens were photostable after 120 min of UVnat; in the UVA range the AUCI was between 0.85 and 0.99 and in the UVB range between 0.92 and 1.0. One sunscreen showed in the UVA range an AUCI of 0.87 after UVnat but an AUCI of 0.72 after UVart. Five of the sunscreens were stable in the UVB region.

Conclusion

The present study shows that several sunscreens are photounstable in the UVA range after UVnat and UVart. There is a need for a standardized method to measure photostability, and the photostability should be marked on the sunscreen product.