Novel Facial Treatment Regimen Improves Aging Skin Appearance

BACKGROUND

Skin care regimens with multiple active ingredients offer a multimodal approach to anti-aging treatments.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this research was to investigate the efficacy of a multimodal skincare regimen on facial skin appearance after 12 weeks of twice daily use as compared to baseline.

METHOD

35 healthy female subjects 35–65 years of age of Fitzpatrick skin types I–III with mild to moderate facial photoaging characterized by hyperpigmentation were enrolled. Subjects were seen at baseline, week 6, and week 12, and underwent subject and investigator assessments along with noninvasive evaluations (elasticity, corneometry, dermaspectrophotometer) and photography.

RESULTS

Most notable at week 12 was a 60% improvement in smoothness, 82% improvement in dryness, 30% improvement in fine lines, and 24% improvement in crow’s feet. There was an 8% reduction in macule hyperpigmentation (P<0.001) at week 12, supporting excellent pigment lightening qualities for the regimen. There was a statistically significant increase in skin firmness (decrease in elasticity) as early as week 6 of 6% with further improvement observed at week 12 of 16% (P=0.002).

SUMMARY

A multimodal skincare regimen with antioxidants, retinol, hydrolyzed pearl, caviar extract, peptides, and growth factors including EGF and TGF-β results in an improvement in the appearance of photoaged skin after 12 weeks of twice daily use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(3):274-278. doi:10.36849/JDD.5791.

Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Based Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin

BACKGROUND

Patients with sensitive skin find topical retinoid use for anti-aging purposes challenging due to irritation. Bakuchiol, a meroterpene from the Psoralea corylifolia seed, has retinol functionality through retinol-like regulation of gene expression.

OBJECTIVE

This research examined the tolerability, efficacy, and barrier effects of a nature-based bakuchiol-containing cleanser and moisturizer in subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

60 female subjects Fitzpatrick skin types I–V age 40–65 years with sensitive mild to moderate photodamaged skin were enrolled in this 4 week study. A sensitive skin panel was constructed: 1/3 eczema/atopic dermatitis, 1/3 rosacea, 1/3 cosmetic intolerance syndrome. Subjects used a nature-based cleanser and moisturizer twice daily and underwent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, tolerability assessments, and efficacy assessments at baseline, 5–10 minutes post-application, and week 4.

RESULTS

The skin care products were well tolerated and efficacious (P<0.001) in terms of investigator assessed improvement in visual smoothness, tactile smoothness, clarity, radiance, overall appearance, and global anti-aging. Cheek corneometry measurements demonstrated a statistically significant 16% increase in skin moisture content (P<0.001).

CONCLUSION

A bakuchiol nature-based anti-aging moisturizer is well tolerated and effective in individuals with sensitive skin.J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(12): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.5522.

The Use of Botanical Extracts in East Asia for Treatment of Hyperpigmentation: An Evidenced-Based Review

Recent years have seen a growth in the Asian cosmeceutical industry and an expanding worldwide marketplace with increasing consumer use of plant-based skin care products. The rising prevalence of Asian cosmeceuticals has led to research studies assessing the safety and efficacy of these products. We seek to review current evidence on safety and efficacy of key ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals to treat disorders of hyperpigmentation. A comprehensive search on PubMed was conducted to identify hyperpigmentation-related research studies on eight popular ingredients used in Asian cosmeceuticals: green tea, soy, orchid, licorice, rice water, ginseng, bamboo, and aloe. Both in vitro studies and clinical trials involving human subjects were included. Of the ingredients reviewed, soy and licorice had the most clinical evidence supporting their efficacy, while all other ingredients were supported by in vitro studies. More research is needed to further evaluate the safety and efficacy of Asian cosmeceutical ingredients in treatment of hyperpigmentation. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7): doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.4776.

Demonstration of the Antioxidant Capabilities of a Product Formulated With Antioxidants Stabilized in Their Reduced Form

Oxidative damage from reactive oxygen species is instrumental in aging. Topical antioxidants are used in many cosmeceuticals to provide appearance benefits; however, the activity of these antioxidants may be questionable. This research validated the activity of L-ascorbic acid and L-glutathione in the studied facial product and correlated this activity with clinical appearance improvement following 12 weeks of use. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(1):46-49. doi:10.36849/JDD.2020.3947

Clinical Evidence of Dermal and Epidermal Restructuring from a Biologically Active Growth Factor Serum for Skin Rejuvenation

Background: Topical skin care products use various technologies to promote skin repair. Growth factors of human, animal, and plant-derived origins have clinically demonstrated the ability to repair skin by promoting collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) production to reconstruct and reinforce skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Human skin cells respond to instructions from highly specialized proteins or hormones referred to as growth factors. These growth factors initiate cellular communication that instigates cellular replication, production, or proliferation. The production of elastin and collagen dermal connective fibers slows, and, with age, the regenerative rates of GAGs become delayed. These biological issues can be exacerbated by extrinsic factors such as sun exposure, pollutants, and various other factors. Growth factor-based products have become important topical treatment modalities for addressing signs of skin aging such as fine lines, deep wrinkles, dryness, laxity, and textural irregularities. Objective: The aim of a 12-week clinical trial of a growth factor composition was to assess its effectiveness at restoring skin health through dermal and epidermal restructuring of aged skin. Results: Data from expert grading, and from corneometer and cutometer evaluations, as well as 2D and 3D image analysis, reflected significant improvements in facial skin appearance, firmness, elasticity, and hydration. Elements that improved most dramatically in investigators’ assessments included radiance, firmness, tactile elasticity, textural smoothness, overall appearance, and crow’s feet. Ultrasound imaging showed continual increases in dermal and epidermal restructuring throughout the study duration. Subject assessments reflected positive product tolerability and positive perception across a broad range of efficacy attributes through 12 weeks of usage. Conclusion: The results verified the ability of a multi-modal plant and enzymatically derived growth factor-based product to achieve skin rejuvenation improvements by stimulating dermal ECM and fibrous tissue regeneration to reduce fine lines and coarse wrinkles, and improve skin firmness and elasticity, while restoring skin to a properly hydrated state. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3):290-295.

Photoaging and Photoprotection in United States Hispanic Population

Photoaging is a complex and chronic process that induces structural and functional changes in sun-exposed skin, including coarse wrinkles, laxity, dyschromia, telangiectasias, and potential precancerous lesions. Pigmented skin presents different structure and physiology that contribute to distinctive photoaging process. The skin of color population is reported to “age better” than their Caucasian counterparts in general, with fewer wrinkles and better skin texture. However, pigmentary disorders and sun-exposure related dyschromia are highly prevalent in skin of color. Hispanics are the fastest growing population in the U.S. and represents a heterogenous group of people with different skin tones and Fitzpatrick phototypes. They demonstrate large diversity and heterogeneity in skin physiology, pigmentary disorders, and photoaging-related skin color shifting. Specific concerns around hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, and texture or roughness are very common among Hispanics, demanding targeted medical and cosmeceutical solutions. Customized daily routines including sufficient photo-protection are essential to address such needs. This mini review identifies some of the specific skin concerns of Hispanics in America and emphasizes the needs for long-term sunscreen use and education. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(3 Suppl):s121-123.

Nutraceuticals' Novel Formulations: The Good, the Bad, the Unknown and Patents Involved

Traditional nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals hold pragmatic nature with respect to their definitions, claims, purposes and marketing strategies. Their definitions are not well established worldwide. They also have different regulatory definitions and registration regulatory processes in different parts of the world. Global prevalence of nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals is noticeably high with large market share with minimal regulation compared to traditional drugs. The global market is flooded with nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals claiming to be of natural origin and sold with a therapeutic claim by major online retail stores such as Amazon and eBay. Apart from the traditional formulations, many manufacturers and researchers use novel formulation technologies in nutraceutical and cosmeceutical formulations for different reasons and objectives. Manufacturers tend to differentiate their products with novel formulations to increase market appeal and sales. On the other hand, researchers use novel strategies to enhance nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals activity and safety. The objective of this review is to assess the current patents and research adopting novel formulation strategies in nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals. Patents and research papers investigating nutraceutical and cosmeceutical novel formulations were surveyed for the past 15 years. Various nanosystems and advanced biotechnology systems have been introduced to improve the therapeutic efficacy, safety and market appeal of nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals, including liposomes, polymeric micelles, quantum dots, nanoparticles, and dendrimers. This review provides an overview of nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals current technologies, highlighting their pros, cons, misconceptions, regulatory definitions and market. This review also aims in separating the science from fiction in the nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals development, research and marketing.

A Prospective Clinical and Instrumental Study on the Effects of a Transcutaneous Cosmeceutical Gel that is Claimed to Produce CO₂

Carboxytherapy is the therapeutic use of carbon dioxide (CO2) in its gaseous state. Since 1933, carboxytherapy has referred to either the subcutaneous injection of CO2 or percutaneous application in a warm bath. The present clinical study was performed to determine if there were any changes in the dermis after the application of a transcutaneous gel, which is claimed to produce CO2, and, if so, how these changes compared to those with CO2 injection. Ten patients received transcutaneous treatment with the gel on one side of the face and the other side without any product was used as a control. We used videocapillaroscopy with an optic probe (VCSO) to evaluate the changes in the microcirculation of the skin. VCSO was performed for the treated right and untreated left ear lobes in each patient. VCSO was performed before treatment was started (VCSO1) and after 7 days of treatment (VCSO2). A comparison of VCSO1 to VCSO2 showed an increase in the microcirculation, an increase in vertical and horizontal capillaries, and a reduction in the area of ischemia. These results are similar to those observed in other studies with CO2 injection. In conclusion, use of this transcutaneous CO2 gel produced changes in the dermis similar to those observed with subcutaneous injection of CO2.

Evidence for Anti-Aging South Korean Cosmeceuticals

<p>As the market for South Korean skin care products grows in the U.S. and worldwide, consumers will increasingly seek advice from dermatologists regarding their efficacy. In this paper, the evidence behind the anti-aging and skin whitening activity of ingredients in the most popular South Korean skin care products was reviewed and critically evaluated. Industry profit data from Euromonitor was obtained to identify the top cosmeceutical brands by retail value in South Korea. The top selling products and their ingredients were then identified from individual brand websites. A comprehensive literature search was conducted using Pubmed to identify and grade the anti-aging and whitening efficacy for nine popular ingredients: licorice, niacinamide, beta-glucan, snail mucus, ginkgo biloba, ginseng, green tea, pomegranate, and soy. Of the various ingredients reviewed, niacinamide, green tea, licorice, and soy have the most published data for anti-aging and whitening activity. Although the literature shows modest results, small sample sizes limit interpretation. High-level evidence to support the use of South Korean skin care products in anti-aging and skin whitening is lacking.</p> <p><em>J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(4):358-364.</em></p>.

Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol

Consumers are increasingly interested in over-the-counter skin care products that can improve the appearance of photodamaged and aging skin. This 10-week, open-label, single- center study enrolled 25 subjects with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and other clinical stigmata of cutaneous aging including fine lines, sallowness, lack of clarity, and wrinkling. Their mean age was 53.4±7.7 years. The test product contained retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide 4.4%, resveratrol 1%, and hexylresorcinol 1.1% in a moisturizing base. Subjects were provided a skin care regimen including a cleanser, hydrating serum, moisturizer, and an SPF 30 sunscreen for daily use. The test product was applied only at night.<br /><br /> The use of this skin brightening/anti-aging cosmeceutical was found to provide statistically significant improvements in all efficacy endpoints by study end. Fine lines, radiance, and smoothness were significantly improved as early as week 2 (<em>P</em>&lt;.001). By week 4, hyperpigmentation, overall skin clarity, evenness of skin tone, and wrinkles showed statistically significant improvement compared to baseline. Mild retinoid dermatitis including flaking and redness occurred early in the study as reflected by tolerability scores. By week 10, subjects reported no stinging, itching, dryness, or tingling.<br /><br /> The results of this open-label clinical study suggest that a topical cream containing retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide, resveratrol, and hexylresorcinol is efficacious and tolerable for skin brightening/anti-aging when used with a complementary skin care regimen including SPF 30 sun protection. <br /><br /> <em>J Drugs Dermatol.</em> 2016;15(7):863-868.

An Approach to Cosmeceuticals

The cosmeceutical industry is a multi-billion dollar, consumer-driven market. Products promise highly desirable anti-aging benefits, but are not subject to regulation. We present an introduction to cosmeceuticals for the general and cosmetic dermatologist, including definitions and explanations of key terms, an approach to the evidence base, a dissection of chamomile and green tea, two paradigmatic cosmeceutical products, and a window into the underlying psychology of this vast marketplace.

Clinical Assessment of a Novel Jasmonate Cosmeceutical, LR2412-Cx, for the Treatment of Skin Aging

BACKGROUND

The jasmonates are a novel class of plant-derived anti-aging compounds. Among these, LR2412-Cx (tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Visionnaire) has been demonstrated to reduce photoaging and the appearance of wrinkles, as well as to upregulate collagens, hyaluronic acid and fibrillin.

OBJECTIVE

To clinically study the cosmetic effects of a novel jasmonate complex LR2412-Cx in the treatment of visible skin aging.

METHODS

LR2412-Cx was evaluated in a 15-subject open-label prospective clinical trial for the treatment of fine wrinkle appearance, texture, and pores. Subjects were evaluated by an investigator at baseline, day 1, day 3, and week 6 with the Alexiades comprehensive grading scale of skin aging, and introducing a novel pore-grading scale and subject quality of life assessments.

RESULTS

The mean (SEM) at baseline and at week 6 following twice-daily application were: for the appearance of wrinkles 2.91 (0.12) and 2.70 (0.10); for texture 2.91 (0.10) and 2.55 (0.10); and for pores 3.29 (0.08) and 2.46 (0.09), respectively. The differences in all 3 categories at all follow-up intervals were statistically significant (P<.005). The percentage improvement in investigator-assessed grades relative to baseline at day 1, day 3, and week 6 were: 2.3%, 4.9%, and 7.4% for the appearance of wrinkles, 5.7%, 9.4%, and 12.4% for texture, and 14.2%, 21.6% and 25.2% for pores, respectively. No significant untoward effects were reported.

CONCLUSION

Visionnaire LR2412-Cx is a novel jasmonate-containing compound that is safe and effective for the cosmetic treatment of fine wrinkle appearance, texture, and pores of the facial skin.

Superior Efficacy of an Herbal-based Cosmeceutical Compared With Common Prescription and Cosmetic Antiaging Therapies

INTRODUCTION

Research has shown that a disrupted stratum corneum permeability barrier coupled with chronic inflammation induce signs of extrinsic aging (photoaging). An novel herbal-based three product cosmeceutical regimen used to reverse these two anomalies that does not contain retinol, soy, niacinamide, tea, L-ascorbic acid or esters, hydroxy acids, tocopherol, or growth factors was tested in six human clinical trials to determine effectiveness and safety in reversing photoaging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Six randomized split face, double blind, prospective, controlled clinical trials involving a total of 110 subjects compared a cosmeceutical blend of novel herbs in regimens consisting of one to three products to several common antiaging topical treatments. These comparative products include prescription tretinoin, physician strength idebenone, kinetin, polyhydroxy, lactic and glycolic acids in reversing signs of photoaging.

RESULTS

The novel cosmeceutical blend regimen showed superior efficacy and safety in all six trials.

DISCUSSION

These trials substantiate that herbs not used in common antiaging products effectively and safely mitigate and reverse photoaging signs and symptoms. The novel concept of treating photoaging and preventing its progression by repairing and optimizing the stratum corneum barrier, while reversing and inhibiting chronic cutaneous inflammation, has now been proven.