The development and application of a novel hazard scoring tool for assessing impacts of cosmetic ingredients on aquatic ecosystems: A case study of rinse-off cosmetics

The cosmetic industry has been committed to promoting less hazardous products to reduce the environmental impacts of cosmetic ingredients. This requires identifying safer cosmetic ingredients for developing cosmetic formulations that are less harmful to the environment. However, one of the challenges in developing eco-friendly cosmetics relies on integrating all environmental hazard (EH) information of cosmetic ingredients to select the most eco-friendly ones (i.e., ingredients least harmful to the aquatic environment). Thus, we developed a hazard scoring tool (IARA matrix), which integrates data on biodegradation, bioaccumulation, and acute aquatic toxicity, providing a hazard index to classify cosmetic ingredients (raw materials) into categories of EH (low, moderate, high, or very high). The classification of the IARA was based on parameters established by Cradle to Cradle (C2C), the US Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA), and European Regulation 1272/2008, considering the most conservative values of each source. The Leopold matrix was employed as a model for the tool, using a numerical scale from 0 to 6 (lowest to highest EH). According to the IARA, we have successfully demonstrated that ultraviolet (UV) filter ingredients have the highest EH out of 41 cosmetic ingredients commonly used for rinse-off products. In addition to UV filters, triclosan (bactericide) and dimethicone (emollient) presented the second-highest EH for aquatic ecosystems, and humectants presented the lowest hazard index. By applying the IARA in the case study of rinse-off products, we have estimated that the aquatic hazard of cosmetic products can be reduced 46% by identifying less hazardous ingredients and combining them into a cosmetic formulation. In summary, the IARA tool allows the estimation of the EH of cosmetic ingredients, provides safer products, and helps achieve sustainability for cosmetic products. Integr Environ Assess Manag 2023;19:1619-1635. © 2023 SETAC.

Modulation of Photoaging-Induced Cutaneous Elastin: Evaluation of Gene and Protein Expression of Markers Related to Elastogenesis Under Different Photoexposure Conditions

INTRODUCTION

Photoaging is the process by which ultraviolet rays gradually induce clinical and histological changes in the skin through the production and organization of biological molecules, such as elastin, which is critical to skin strength and elasticity. After exposure to radiation, elastin may undergo alternative mRNA splicing, resulting in modified proteins that contribute to the formation of aging characteristics, such as solar elastosis. The present work aimed to study two different forms of elastin under these conditions: normal elastin and elastin that had been altered in exon 26A.

METHODS

These different forms of elastin were characterized for gene expression by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and for protein expression by immunohistochemistry of ex vivo skins (from photoexposed and non-photoexposed areas) and in vitro reconstituted skin. In addition, up- and downstream molecules in the elastin signaling cascade were evaluated.

RESULTS

As a result, a significant increase in the gene expression of elastin 26A was observed in both ex vivo photoexposed skin tissues and the in vitro photoexposed reconstituted skins. Additionally, significant increases in the gene expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-12 (MMP12) and lysyl oxidase (LOX) were observed in the ex vivo skin model. The evaluation of protein expression levels of some photoaging markers on the reconstituted skin revealed increased tropoelastin and fibrillin-1 expression after photoexposure.

CONCLUSION

This work contributes to a better understanding of the biological mechanisms involved in photoaging, making it possible to obtain new strategies for the development of dermocosmetic active ingredients to prevent and treat skin aging.

An Intestine/Liver Microphysiological System for Drug Pharmacokinetic and Toxicological Assessment

The recently introduced microphysiological systems (MPS) cultivating human organoids are expected to perform better than animals in the preclinical tests phase of drug developing process because they are genetically human and recapitulate the interplay among tissues. In this study, the human intestinal barrier (emulated by a co-culture of Caco-2 and HT-29 cells) and the liver equivalent (emulated by spheroids made of differentiated HepaRG cells and human hepatic stellate cells) were integrated into a two-organ chip (2-OC) microfluidic device to assess some acetaminophen (APAP) pharmacokinetic (PK) and toxicological properties. The MPS had three assemblies: Intestine only 2-OC, Liver only 2-OC, and Intestine/Liver 2-OC with the same media perfusing both organoids. For PK assessments, we dosed the APAP in the media at preset timepoints after administering it either over the intestinal barrier (emulating the oral route) or in the media (emulating the intravenous route), at 12 µM and 2 µM respectively. The media samples were analyzed by reversed-phase high-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC). Organoids were analyzed for gene expression, for TEER values, for protein expression and activity, and then collected, fixed, and submitted to a set of morphological evaluations. The MTT technique performed well in assessing the organoid viability, but the high content analyses (HCA) were able to detect very early toxic events in response to APAP treatment. We verified that the media flow does not significantly affect the APAP absorption whereas it significantly improves the liver equivalent functionality. The APAP human intestinal absorption and hepatic metabolism could be emulated in the MPS. The association between MPS data and in silico modeling has great potential to improve the predictability of the in vitro methods and provide better accuracy than animal models in pharmacokinetic and toxicological studies.

Toxicity Evaluation of TiO2 Nanoparticles on the 3D Skin Model: A Systematic Review

Titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO2 NPs) are regularly used in sunscreens because of their photoprotective capacity. The advantage of using TiO2 on the nanometer scale is due to its transparency and better UV blocking efficiency. Due to the greater surface area/volume ratio, NPs become more (bio)-reactive giving rise to concerns about their potential toxicity. To evaluate the irritation and corrosion of cosmetics, 3D skin models have been used as an alternative method to animal experimentation. However, it is not known if this model is appropriate to study skin irritation, corrosion and phototoxicity of nanomaterials such as TiO2 NPs. This systematic review (SR) proposed the following question: Can the toxicity of TiO2 nanoparticles be evaluated in a 3D skin model? This SR was conducted according to the Preliminary Report on Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis (PRISMA). The protocol was registered in CAMARADES and the ToxRTool evaluation was performed in order to increase the quality and transparency of this search. In this SR, 7 articles were selected, and it was concluded that the 3D skin model has shown to be promising to evaluate the toxicity of TiO2 NPs. However, most studies have used biological assays that have already been described as interfering with these NPs, demonstrating that misinterpretations can be obtained. This review will focus in the possible efforts that should be done in order to avoid interference of NPs with biological assays applied in 3D in vitro culture.

The inhibition of adipogenesis via an in vitro assay can reduce animal use by more precisely estimating the starting dose for the acute toxic class method

In the present work, we established an adipogenesis inhibition assay as an adequate and sensitive in vitro model for reducing animal use by estimating the starting dose for the acute toxic class (ATC) method. First, human adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) underwent adipogenic differentiation induction for 14 days. Then, by high-content imaging analysis, we determined the percentage and area of cell differentiation that we considered suitable for negative and positive internal control according to the quality control criteria strictly standardized mean difference (SSMD) and robust SSMD. Moreover, we established sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) as an external positive control in this assay. To measure reduction in animal use to estimate the starting dose for the ATC method, we evaluated 10 chemicals representing Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labeling of Chemicals (GHS) toxicity categories 1-5 and unclassified toxicity and determined the dose-response curves for percentage and area of cell differentiation by using the Hill function with an R² ≥ 0.85. The resulting IC₅₀ values were used for LD₅₀ prediction and for estimating the starting dose for the ATC method. Our results indicated that use of the inhibition of adipogenesis assay to estimate the starting dose for the ATC method would decrease animal use for 7 out of 10 tested substances, possibly all substances if we consider the more toxic test substances in GHS categories 1, 2, and 3. We can conclude that the present assay is a suitable alternative to reduce animal testing in the first steps of predicting highly toxic substances. Moreover, this method also presents internal and external controls as differentials, which guarantee the quality of the assay as well as the results. These features are important for suggesting a methodology for regulatory purposes.

In vivo study of dermal collagen of striae distensae by confocal Raman spectroscopy

This research work mainly deals with studying qualitatively the changes in the dermal collagen of two forms of striae distensae (SD) namely striae rubrae (SR) and striae albae (SA) when compared to normal skin (NS) using confocal Raman spectroscopy. The methodology includes an in vivo human skin study for the comparison of confocal Raman spectra of dermis region of SR, SA, and NS by supervised multivariate analysis using partial least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) to determine qualitatively the changes in dermal collagen. These groups are further analyzed for the extent of hydration of dermal collagen by studying the changes in the water content bound to it. PLS-DA score plot showed good separation of the confocal Raman spectra of dermis region into SR, SA, and NS data groups. Further analysis using loading plot and S-plot indicated the participation of various components of dermal collagen in the separation of these groups. Bound water content analysis showed that the extent of hydration of collagen is more in SD when compared to NS. Based on the results obtained, this study confirms the active involvement of dermal collagen in the formation of SD. It also emphasizes the need to study quantitatively the role of these various biochemical changes in the dermal collagen responsible for the variance between SR, SA, and NS.

Immune responses elicited by Mycoplasma hyopneumoniae recombinant antigens and DNA constructs with potential for use in vaccination against porcine enzootic pneumonia

Mycoplasma hyopneumoniae is the etiological agent of porcine enzootic pneumonia (PEP) and causes major economic losses to the pig industry worldwide. Commercially available vaccines provide only partial protection and are relatively expensive. In this study, we assessed the humoral and cellular immune responses to three recombinant antigens of M. hyopneumoniae. Immune responses to selected domains of the P46, HSP70 and MnuA antigens (P46102-253, HSP70212-601 and MnuA182-378), delivered as recombinant subunit or DNA vaccines, were evaluated in BALB/c mice. All purified recombinant antigens and two DNA vaccines, pcDNA3.1(+)/HSP70212-601 and pcDNA3.1(+)/MnuA182-378, elicited a strong humoral immune response, indicated by high IgG levels in the serum. The cellular immune response was assessed by detection of IFN-γ, IL-10 and IL-4 in splenocyte culture supernatants. The recombinant subunit and DNA vaccines induced Th1-polarized immune responses, as evidenced by increased levels of IFN-γ. All recombinant subunit vaccines and the pcDNA3.1(+)/MnuA182-378 vaccine also induced the secretion of IL-10, a Th2-type cytokine, in large quantities. The mixed Th1/Th2-type response may elicit an effective immune response against M. hyopneumoniae, suggesting that P46102-253, HSP70212-601 and MnuA182-378 are potential novel and promising targets for the development of vaccines against PEP.

Flow cytometry as a tool for analyzing changes in Plasmodium falciparum cell cycle following treatment with indol compounds

Melatonin and its derivatives modulate the Plasmodium falciparum and Plasmodium chabaudi cell cycle. Flow cytometry was employed together with the nucleic acid dye YOYO-1 allowing precise discrimination between mono- and multinucleated forms of P. falciparum-infected red blood cell. The use of YOYO-1 permitted excellent discrimination between uninfected and infected red blood cells as well as between early and late parasite stages. Fluorescence intensities of schizont-stage parasites were about 10-fold greater than those of ring-trophozoite form parasites. Melatonin and related indolic compounds including serotonin, N-acetyl-serotonin and tryptamine induced an increase in the percentage of multinucleated forms compared to non-treated control cultures. YOYO-1 staining of infected erythrocyte and subsequent flow cytometry analysis provides a powerful tool in malaria research for screening of bioactive compounds.

Occurrence and abundance of a mariner-like element in freshwater and terrestrial planarians (Platyhelminthes, Tricladida) from southern Brazil

Transposable elements are DNA sequences present in all the large phylogenetic groups, both capable of changing position within the genome and constituting a significant part of eukaryotic genomes. The mariner family of transposons is one of the few which occurs in a wide variety of taxonomic groups, including freshwater planarians. Nevertheless, so far only five planarian species have been reported to carry mariner-like elements (MLEs), although several different species have been investigated. Regarding the number of copies of MLEs, Girardia tigrina is the only planarian species in which this has been evaluated, with an estimation of 8,000 copies of the element per haploid genome. Preliminary results obtained in our laboratory demonstrated that MLE is found in a large number of different species of planarians, including terrestrial. With this in mind, the aim was to evaluate the occurrence and estimate the number of MLE copies in different planarian species collected in south Brazil. Twenty-eight individuals from 15 planarian species were analyzed. By using PCR and the hybridization of nucleic acids, it was found that MLE was present in all the analyzed species, the number of copies being high, probably over 10³ per haploid genome.