Sebaceous gland secretion is a major physiologic route of vitamin E delivery to skin

Oral supplementation with all-Rac- and RRR-alpha-tocopherol increases vitamin E levels in human sebum after a latency period of 14-21 days

In human skin, highest alpha-tocopherol levels are found in facial sebum. We hypothesized that the bioavailability of vitamin E in human skin is, at least in part, dependent on sebaceous gland secretion. To test this, 24 volunteers were subjected to a randomized daily supplementation with either 400 mg RRR-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (RRR-alpha-toc) or 400 mg all-rac-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (all-rac-alpha-toc) for 14 days. Fasting blood samples, facial sebum samples, and lower-arm skin-surface lipids (SSL) were taken at time-points between 0-21 days. Samples were analyzed by HPLC for alpha-tocopherol and squalene concentrations. Increased serum alpha-tocopherol levels were detectable as early as 12 h after supplementation of RRR-alpha-toc or all-rac-alpha-toc and peaked on day 7. No significant changes were observed in lower-arm SSL. Remarkably, while unchanged until day 14, alpha-tocopherol sebum levels were increased on day 21 in both the RRR-alpha-toc and the all-rac-alpha-toc group by 87% and 92%, respectively. With respect to dietary supplementation of vitamin E and its bioavailability in human skin, these results suggest that (1) sebaceous gland secretion is a relevant delivery mechanism; (2) the bioavailabilities of RRR-alpha-toc and the all-rac-alpha-toc are similar; and (3) significant accumulation requires a daily supplementation period of at least 2-3 weeks.

Isolation and identification of histone H3 protein enriched in microvesicles secreted from cultured sebocytes

Secretion of microvesicles, defined as sebosomes, containing lipid particles were discovered for the first time in cultured sebocytes. After reaching confluency, hamster-cloned sebocytes released bubble-like microvesicles with a diameter range of 0.5-5.0 microm. They had a complex structure containing multiple Oil Red O-stainable particles. The lipid components of the microvesicles were large amounts of squalene both of hamster-cloned and rat primary cultured sebocytes. The microvesicles contained a concentrated 17-kDa cationic protein, which was soluble in sulfate buffer including Nonidet P-40 at pH 1.5. As the protein bound tightly to heparin-Sepharose and eluted with 1.5 M NaCl, it was further purified from a SDS-PAGE gel. Peptide sequencing identified the protein to be histone H3. Polyclonal antibodies against the purified protein detected the antigen in the microvesicles both in the hamster-cloned and rat primary cultured sebocytes. The antibodies demonstrated a distribution of the protein within the nucleus, cytoplasm, and precursor microvesicles. When a gene construct encoding histone H3-enhanced green fluorescent protein was transfected to the sebocytes, fluorescence of the fusion proteins was detected within both the nucleus and the precursor microvesicles of the cytoplasm. The distribution of heparan sulfate was evident in the microvesicles, and it suggested the possibility that the histone H3 protein was recruited and then condensed to the secreted microvesicles by the molecules. In addition, the 14-3-3 protein, which was detected in the microvesicles, also may help incorporate the histone H3 protein in the microvesicles because it can bind to both histone and lipid particles.

Vitamin E Delivery to Human Skin by a Rinse-Off Product: Penetration of α-Tocopherol versus Wash-Out Effects of Skin Surface Lipids

alpha-Tocopherol, the major biologically active form of vitamin E, represents a frequently added lipophilic compound of skin care products. Despite its emerging use in rinse-off formulations, little is known on its efficacy with respect to its deposition or its antioxidant potential in human skin. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the single use of an alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product provides effective deposition of alpha-tocopherol on human stratum corneum. To test this, forearm skin of 13 volunteers was washed either with an alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product (test product, TP) or with an alpha-tocopherol-free vehicle control (control product, CP) (contralateral arm) using a standardized wash protocol. Thereafter, skin surface lipids were extracted with pure ethanol after the wash procedure as well as after 24 h. Additionally, one group of volunteers was subjected to irradiation of their forearms with low-dose UVA (8 J/cm(2)) prior to lipid extraction. Skin lipid extracts were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography using electrochemical detection for vitamin E and UV detection for squalene (SQ) and squalene monohydroperoxide. The results of this in vivo study demonstrated that (1) while CP treatment lowers, TP treatment strongly increases alpha-tocopherol levels of skin barrier lipids; (2) increased vitamin E deposition levels were maintained for a period of at least 24 h, and (3) TP treatment significantly inhibited photooxidation of SQ. In conclusion, the use of alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off products may help to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier by providing protection against photooxidative stress at the level of skin surface lipids.

Topical α-Tocopherol Acetate in the Bulk Phase: Eight Years of Experience in Skin Treatment

Clinical practice in dermatology indicates that alpha-tocopherol acetate is beneficial in xerosis, hyperkeratosis, asteatotic eczema, atopic dermatitis, superficial burns, cutaneous ulcers, onychoschizia and, in general, skin diseases in which an inflammatory process is activated. The positive effect results from the combination of biological activity, the absence of adverse reactions, and the physical effect of the alpha-tocopherol acetate oil. The viscosity of this oil in bulk phase accounts for a remarkable moisturizing effect and minimization of transepidermal water loss. This effect combines well with the antioxidant capacity of alpha-tocopherol released from the ester, and the recently emerging effect on reprogramming of gene expression.

Nutritional protection against skin damage from sunlight

The concept of systemic photoprotection by dietary means is gaining momentum. Skin is continuously exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, the major cause of skin disorders such as sunburn, photodamage, and nonmelanoma skin cancer. Most of the erythemal annual UV dose is encountered under nonvacation conditions, when no sunscreen is applied. In the absence of topically added compounds, skin protection depends solely on endogenous defense. Micronutrients can act as UV absorbers, as antioxidants, or can modulate signaling pathways elicited upon UV exposure. UV-induced erythema is a suitable parameter to assess photoprotection. Dietary protection is provided by carotenoids, tocopherols, ascorbate, flavonoids, or n-3 fatty acids, contributing to maintenance resistance as part of lifelong protection.

Acne and sebaceous gland function

The embryologic development of the human sebaceous gland is closely related to the differentiation of the hair follicle and the epidermis. The number of sebaceous glands remains approximately the same throughout life, whereas their size tends to increase with age. The development and function of the sebaceous gland in the fetal and neonatal periods appear to be regulated by maternal androgens and by endogenous steroid synthesis, as well as by other morphogens. The most apparent function of the glands is to excrete sebum. A strong increase in sebum excretion occurs a few hours after birth; this peaks during the first week and slowly subsides thereafter. A new rise takes place at about age 9 years with adrenarche and continues up to age 17 years, when the adult level is reached. The sebaceous gland is an important formation site of active androgens. Androgens are well known for their effects on sebum excretion, whereas terminal sebocyte differentiation is assisted by peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor ligands. Estrogens, glucocorticoids, and prolactin also influence sebaceous gland function. In addition, stress-sensing cutaneous signals lead to the production and release of corticotrophin-releasing hormone from dermal nerves and sebocytes with subsequent dose-dependent regulation of sebaceous nonpolar lipids. Among other lipid fractions, sebaceous glands have been shown to synthesize considerable amounts of free fatty acids without exogenous influence. Sebaceous lipids are responsible for the three-dimensional skin surface lipid organization. Contributing to the integrity of the skin barrier. They also exhibit strong innate antimicrobial activity, transport antioxidants to the skin surface, and express proinflammatory and anti-inflammatory properties. Acne in childhood has been suggested to be strongly associated with the development of severe acne during adolescence. Increased sebum excretion is a major factor in the pathophysiology of acne vulgaris. Other sebaceous gland functions are also associated with the development of acne, including sebaceous proinflammatory lipids; different cytokines produced locally; periglandular peptides and neuropeptides, such as corticotrophin-releasing hormone, which is produced by sebocytes; and substance P, which is expressed in the nerve endings at the vicinity of healthy-looking glands of acne patients. Current data indicate that acne vulgaris may be a primary inflammatory disease. Future drugs developed to treat acne not only should reduce sebum production and Propionibacterium acnes populations, but also should be targeted to reduce proinflammatory lipids in sebum, down-regulate proinflammatory signals in the pilosebaceous unit, and inhibit leukotriene B(4)-induced accumulation of inflammatory cells. They should also influence peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor regulation. Isotretinoin is still the most active available drug for the treatment of severe acne.

Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What's new

Due to its interface function between the body and the environment, the skin is chronically exposed to both endogenous and environmental pro-oxidant agents, leading to the harmful generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). There is compelling evidence that oxidative stress is involved in the damage of cellular constituents, such as DNA, cell membrane lipids or proteins. To protect the skin against the over-load of oxidant species, it contains a well-organised system of both chemical and enzymatic antioxidant which are able to work in a synergistic manner. Skin antioxidant network protects cells against oxidative injury and prevent the production of oxidation products, such as 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal or malonaldehyde, which are able to induce protein damage, apoptosis or release of pro-inflammatory mediators, such as cytokines. When oxidative stress overwhelms the skin antioxidant capacity the subsequent modification of cellular redox apparatus leads to an alteration of cell homeostasis and a generation of degenerative processes. Topical application or oral administration of antioxidants has been recently suggested as preventive therapy for skin photoaging and UV-induced cancer. The recognition that ROS can act as second messengers in the induction of several biological responses, such as the activation of NF-kB or AP-1, the generation of cytokines, the modulation of signalling pathways, etc., has led many researchers to focus on the possible effects of antioxidants in many pathological processes. The recent demonstration that the peroxisome proliferators-activated receptors, whose natural ligands are polyunsaturated fatty acids and theirs oxidation products, have a central role in the induction of some skin diseases, such as psoriasis or acne, has indicated new links between free radicals and skin inflammation. Based on these findings, the review summarises the possible correlations between antioxidant imbalance, lipid oxidative breakage and skin diseases, from both a pathological and therapeutic points of view.

Vitamin E delivery to human skin: studies using deuterated alpha-tocopherol measured by APCI LC-MS

Enrichment of skin surface lipids with deuterium-labeled alpha-tocopherol was compared with plasma enrichment to evaluate kinetics of the delivery of vitamin E to skin surface lipids. For 7 d, subjects consumed 75 mg each of RRR-alpha-[5-(C2H3)]- (d3) and all rac-alpha-[5,7-(C2H3)2]- (d6) tocopheryl acetates with breakfast. Blood was drawn and skin lipids were collected daily for 2 weeks, then every other day for 2 weeks. A liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry atmospheric pressure chemical ionization method for quantification of deuterium labeled (d3, d6, d9-alpha-tocopherols) and unlabeled (d0-) alpha- and gamma-tocopherols was developed. Tocopherols were quantified at their m/z [M-1] using single ion recording. alpha-Tocopherol detection was linear from 1 to 100 pmol with a detection limit of 40 pg (93 fmol). Detection of gamma-tocopherol was twice as sensitive due to greater ionization efficiency. Though d3- and d6-alpha-tocopherols appeared in plasma within 24 h of the first dose, d3-alpha-tocopherol was not detected in skin surface lipids until approximately 1 week. Plasma percentage d3 peaked at day 8, while skin surface lipid percentage d3 increased on average until day 19. Apparently skin employs a mechanism to deliver alpha-tocopherol into skin via lipid secretions.

Role of Vernix Caseosa in the Neonate

Vernix caseosa is a naturally occurring fetal barrier film produced in late pregnancy as a result of sebaceous and epidermal lipids combined with desquamation of maturing fetal corneocytes. Vernix lacks desmosomal interconnections between corneocytes as demonstrated in adult stratum corneum and is, therefore, referred to as a "mobile phase" stratum corneum. Vernix is proposed to have multiple fetal/newborn overlapping biological functions: moisturization, anti-infective, antioxidant, wound healing, and waterproofing. Patients with altered skin integrity due to burn injuries lack the protective qualities necessary for wound healing. Emerging research suggests that Vernix applied to skin cultures may enhance wound healing. Application of the fetal/neonatal skin science findings to the adult burn population offers the potential for a clinically relevant homologous substitute for impaired tissue integrity.

Effects of topical L-selenomethionine with topical and oral vitamin E on pigmentation and skin cancer induced by ultraviolet irradiation in Skh:2 hairless mice

BACKGROUND

The antioxidants selenium and vitamin E can be effective in reducing acute and chronic ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin damage.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigated whether topical L-selenomethionine with topical RRR-alpha-tocopherol (Eol) or oral RRR-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (Eac) can reduce the incidence of UV-induced skin damage more than treatment with each alone.

METHODS

Skh:2 hairless pigmented mice were treated with lotion vehicle, L-selenomethionine lotion, Eol lotion, oral Eac, L-selenomethionine plus Eol lotion, or L-selenomethionine lotion plus oral Eac and exposed to UVB. Skin pigmentation was scored, and the number of skin tumors per animal was counted weekly.

RESULTS

Mice treated with selenium and vitamin E had significantly less acute and chronic UV-induced skin damage.

CONCLUSION

Topical L-selenomethionine alone and combined with vitamin E gave the best protection against UV-induced blistering and pigmentation. In protecting against skin cancer, topical Eol and topical L-selenomethionine plus oral Eac were best. Significant synergy of L-selenomethionine with vitamin E was not observed.

Ultraviolet a induces generation of squalene monohydroperoxide isomers in human sebum and skin surface lipids in vitro and in vivo

At the outermost surface of human skin, skin surface lipids are first-line targets of solar ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, we hypothesized that ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B irradiation induce photo-oxidation of skin surface lipids. To test this, sebum samples were collected from facial skin of 17 healthy volunteers, weighed, and immediately irradiated with either ultraviolet B or ultraviolet A. Squalene, the major sebum lipid, as well as photo-oxidation products were identified in sebum lipid extracts by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis. Upon ultraviolet A exposures squalene was depleted in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas an unidentified sebum lipid photo-oxidation product was detected. Using high-performance thin layer chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, atmospheric pressure chemical ionization mass spectrometry, and nuclear magnetic resonance, unidentified sebum lipid photo-oxidation product was identified as a mixture of squalene monohydroperoxide isomers. Squalene monohydroperoxide isomers purified from sebum were identical with squalene monohydroperoxide isomers synthesized by preparative photo-oxidation of squalene. Squalene monohydroperoxide isomers were formed even after small suberythematogenic doses of ultraviolet A (5 J per cm2). Whereas physiologic baseline levels of squalene monohydroperoxide isomers in human skin were only slightly above detection limits, squalene monohydroperoxide isomer levels were strongly increased by suberythematogenic doses of ultraviolet A both in vitro and in vivo. High-performance liquid chromatography results could be complemented by a straightforward thin layer chromatography method for rapid screening of lipid peroxide formation in human sebum/skin surface lipids. In conclusion, specific squalene monohydroperoxide isomers were identified as highly ultraviolet A sensitive skin surface lipid breakdown products that may serve as a marker for photo-oxidative stress in vitro and in vivo.

Palmitoleic acid isomer (C16:1delta6) in human skin sebum is effective against gram-positive bacteria

The percent lipid composition of pooled human sebum analyzed by thin-layer chromatography was: ceramides (13%), fatty acid (47%), cholesterol (7%), cholesterol esters (2%), squalene (11%), triglycerides (3%), and wax esters (17%). Total sebum lipids (2- 4 mg/ml), sonicated into bacterial culture medium, caused 4- to 5-fold log reduction in growth of gram-positive bacteria, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus salivarius and the anaerobe Fusobacterium nucleatum, but was ineffective against most gram-negative bacteria. Fractionation of the sebum lipids showed that both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids contained the bulk of the antimicrobial activity. Lauric acid (C12:0) was the most active saturated fatty acid. The unsaturated fatty acid, palmitoleic acid (C16:1delta6, cPA) was both the most predominant monoene and the most active antimicrobial fatty acid. Purified cPA (>99%) yielded typical minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) values of 10-20 microg/ml against gram-positive bacteria. Organically synthesized cPA isomer gave MIC values comparable to the natural material. Both natural and synthetic cPA were found to be the most active sebum lipid fraction in blocking the adherence of a pathogenic strain of Candida albicans to porcine stratum corneum. Ethanol in combination with cPA exerts a synergistic bactericidal activity against gram-negative pathogenic bacteria, including Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Propionibacterium acnes, Escherichia coli, and several methacillin-resistant strains of S. aureus. Palmitoleic acid may be useful in topical formulations for treatment of secondary gram-positive bacterial infections, as a gram-positive bacteria antimicrobial in wound dressings, and as a natural gram-positive antimicrobial preservative in skin and hair care products.

Topical alpha-tocotrienol supplementation inhibits lipid peroxidation but fails to mitigate increased transepidermal water loss after benzoyl peroxide treatment of human skin

Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) is a commonly used drug in the treatment of acne vulgaris, but it induces unwanted side effects related to stratum corneum (SC) function. Since it has been recently shown to oxidize SC antioxidants, it was hypothesized that antioxidant supplementation may mitigate the BPO-induced SC changes. To test this, 11 subjects were selected to be topically supplemented with alpha-tocotrienol (5% w/vol) for 7 d on defined regions of the upper back, while the contralateral region was used for vehicle-only controls. Starting on day 8, all test sites were also treated with BPO (10%) for 7 d; the alpha-tocotrienol supplementation was continued throughout the study. A single dose of BPO depleted 93.2% of the total vitamin E. While continuing the BPO exposure for 7 d further depleted vitamin E in both vehicle-only and alpha-tocotrienol-treated sites, significantly more vitamin E remained in the alpha-tocotrienol-treated areas. Seven BPO applications increased lipid peroxidation. Alpha-tocotrienol supplementation significantly mitigated the BPO-induced lipid peroxidation. The transepidermal water loss was increased 1.9-fold by seven BPO applications, while there was no difference between alpha-tocotrienol treatment and controls. The data suggest that alpha-tocotrienol supplementation counteracts the lipid peroxidation but not the barrier perturbation in the SC induced by 10% BPO.

The combined use of oral and topical lipophilic antioxidants increases their levels both in sebum and stratum corneum

The concentration of Vitamin E (vit E) and ubiquinone (CoQ10), which together with squalene (SQ), play a key role against external oxidative insult, has been shown to decrease significantly during ageing. The aim of the present study is to inquire the effect of the combined use of topical bio-cosmetics containing natural active principles (including sebum-like lipid fractions, sebum and epidermal lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants), and oral antioxidant supplements on the antioxidant content of sebum and stratum corneum. We therefore treated the face and the back of 50 female volunteers aged 21-40, daily for two months, with a base cream containing 0.05% ubiquinone, 0.1% vit E, and 1% squalene. In addition 50 mg of CoQ10 + 50 mg of d-RRR-alpha-tocopheryl acetate + 50 microg of selenium were administered orally to half of the volunteers (Group A). Group B was represented by 25 volunteers who were treated only topically. Every 15 days during treatment the levels of CoQ10, vit E and SQ were verified in sebum, stratum corneum, and plasma. The daily topical application of the cream led to a significant increase, that peaked after 60 days, of the levels of CoQ10, d-RRR-alpha-tocopherol and SQ in the sebum (Group B), without significantly affecting the stratum corneum or plasma concentrations of the redox couple CoQ10H2/CoQ10 and vit E. The concomitant oral admistration of antioxidants produced in Group A a significant increase of the levels of CoQ10H2/CoQ10 and vit E both in plasma and stratum corneum after 15 and 30 days treatment respectively, compared to Group B. However the sebum levels of lipophilic antioxidants and SQ did not show a significant increase. After the treatments, the levels of CoQ10H2/CoQ10, vit E and SQ went back to basal levels within 6-8 days in sebum, 12-16 days in the stratum corneum, and 3-6 days in plasma. Therefore topical application of the antioxidants was able to increase their level in sebum, while the concomitant oral administration also affected the levels of vit E and CoQ10 in the stratum corneum.

New insights into skin structure: scratching the surface

The formation, structural organization, and barrier functions of stratum corneum (SC) are reviewed. Stratum corneum is considered as a composite material and a biopolymer with properties so unique as to consider it a 'smart material'. SC, together with stratum granulosum (SG) responds (as an actively smart material) to environmental signals with appropriate modulations in its barrier properties. Current theories on the mode of barrier formation, validity of use of animal models and ex vivo human skin in studies of percutaneous absorption, as well as its implications in development of transdermal systems (TDS) are discussed. Potential pitfalls in extrapolating from animal data and the use of cadaver skin/epidermal membranes in evaluations of TDS are also stressed.

Antioxidants and the response of skin to oxidative stress: vitamin E as a key indicator

As the outermost barrier of the body, the skin is directly and frequently exposed to a prooxidative environment, including solar UVA and UVB radiation, and air pollution. The skin is equipped with an elaborate system of antioxidant substances and enzymes that includes a network of redox active antioxidants. Among these, vitamin E has been identified as the predominant antioxidant both in murine and human skin and shows a characteristic gradient with lower levels towards the outer stratum corneum layers. Skin exposure to UV and ozone alone and in combination resulted in a significant potentiation of the UV-induced vitamin E depletion. Oxidants and antioxidants play an important role in maintaining a balance between free radicals produced by metabolism or derived from environmental sources. Cellular antioxidants may change their redox state, be targeted for destruction, regulate oxidative process involved in signal transduction, affect gene expression and pathways of cell proliferation and death. Here we provide an overview of the antioxidant system with a special relevance to skin.

Evaluation of facial skin type by sebum secretion: discrepancies between subjective descriptions and sebum secretion

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Facial skin is usually classified as dry, normal, and oily in the cosmetics field. However, there is no standard objective method for classifying facial skin.

METHODS

We measured sebum excretion with Sebumeter at four sites on the face. Based on the amount of sebum secretion, we reclassified skin type according to the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. The mean of sebum excretion (mean facial sebum excretion; MFSE) was also calculated.

RESULTS

People secrete varying amounts of sebum at different skin sites. Reclassification of skin type based on sebum secretion revealed that most participants underestimated the amount of facial sebum excretion. When sebum secretion amounts were compared, a statistically significant difference was apparent between the oily and dry skin types. However, there were no statistical differences between oily and normal, and normal and dry skin.

CONCLUSION

We showed that subjective skin type does not match the amount of sebum secreted. Thus, this simple and subjective classification is of very limited use and it should be re-evaluated by using an objective and standardized measuring tool.

Photoaging is associated with protein oxidation in human skin in vivo

There is increasing evidence for the generation of reactive oxygen species in skin upon ultraviolet exposure, but little is known about their pathophysiologic relevance in human skin in vivo. We hypothesized that chronic and acute photodamage is mediated by depleted antioxidant enzyme expression and increased oxidative protein modifications. Biopsies from patients with histologically confirmed solar elastosis, from non-ultraviolet-exposed sites of age-matched controls, and from young subjects were analyzed. To evaluate the influence of acute ultraviolet exposures, buttock skin of 12 healthy subjects was irradiated repetitively on 10 d with a solar simulator and compared intraindividually to non-ultraviolet-treated contralateral sites. The antioxidant enzymes catalase, copper-zinc superoxide dismutase, and manganese superoxide dismutase were investigated by immunohistochemistry. Protein carbonyls were analyzed by immunohistochemical and immunoblotting techniques in human skin and in cell models. Whereas overall expression of antioxidant enzymes was very high in the epidermis, low baseline levels were found in the dermis. In photoaged skin, a significant depletion of antioxidant enzyme expression was observed within the stratum corneum and in the epidermis. Importantly, an accumulation of oxidatively modified proteins was found specifically within the upper dermis of photoaged skin. Upon acute ultraviolet exposure of healthy subjects, depleted catalase expression and increased protein oxidation were detected. Exposures of keratinocytes and fibroblasts to ultraviolet B, ultraviolet A, and H2O2 led to dose-dependent protein oxidation and thus confirmed in vivo results. In conclusion, the correlation between photodamage and protein oxidation was demonstrated for the first time, which hence may be a relevant pathophysiologic factor in photoaging.

Testing for irritation with a multifactorial approach: comparison of eight non-invasive measuring techniques on five different irritation types

BACKGROUND

Non-invasive bioengineering methods are widely used in the assessment of irritant skin reactions.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the ability of eight non-invasive measurement techniques to distinguish changes in skin conditions over time, these changes being induced by five different irritants.

METHODS

The following techniques were compared in a multivariate analysis: laser-Doppler perfusion imaging (LDI), laser-Doppler flowmetry (LDF), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), visual scoring (VS), colorimetric measurements (Chromameter CR 200 a* and L* scales), Mexameter Hb scale (Mexa Hb) and capacitance (Corneometer CM 820). Irritants tested were sodium lauryl sulphate 2% (SLS), tape stripping (TS), tretinoin 0.05% (TRET), ultraviolet (UV) exposure to 30 W m(-2) UVB/95 W m(-2) UVA, and dithranol 0.5% (DIT). Measurements were performed at baseline and after 24, 48 and 72 h. The study was conducted on the upper back of 11 healthy volunteers of both sexes aged 27-51 years.

RESULTS

For DIT it was possible to discriminate over time with CR 200 a* and L*, VS, LDI, LDF and Mexa Hb. In SLS discrimination over time was seen with TEWL and LDF. Discrimination in TS was demonstrated for TEWL, VS, CR 200 a*, CM 820, LDF, LDI and Mexa Hb. In TRET discrimination ability was seen for LDI, LDF, Mexa Hb and VS. For UV it was possible to discriminate using VS, TEWL, LDF, LDI and Mexa Hb.

CONCLUSIONS

Different irritation patterns need different measurement modalities in order to give optimal discrimination over time.

Oxidative targets in the stratum corneum. A new basis for antioxidative strategies

As the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC) is continuously exposed to an oxidative environment, including air pollutants, ultraviolet radiation, chemical oxidants, and aerobic microorganisms. Human SC reveals characteristic antioxidant and protein oxidation gradients with increasing antioxidant depletion and protein oxidation towards the outer layers. SC antioxidants, lipids, and proteins are oxidatively modified upon treatments with ultraviolet A/ultraviolet B, ozone, and benzoyl peroxide. alpha-Tocopherol represents the predominating SC antioxidant with respect to its concentration and its unique susceptibility to the various oxidative challenges tested. In sites rich in sebaceous glands, alpha-tocopherol is physiologically delivered to the surface via secretion of sebum. Oxidative damage in the human SC represents an early pathophysiological event preceding barrier disruption and inflammation in environmentally challenged skin. Furthermore, oxidative gradients in SC proteins may have implications for the process of desquamation in human skin.

Role of vitamins in skin care

Therapeutic (vitamins A and D, and their analogs) and antioxidant (vitamins C, E, and coenzyme Q) vitamins play an increasing role in skin care. Their benefits range from skin conditions such as acne and psoriasis to the protection against environmental insults.

Effect of benzoyl peroxide on antioxidant status, NF-kappaB activity and interleukin-1alpha gene expression in human keratinocytes

Benzoyl peroxide (BP) is used as a topical treatment for acne. Besides its anti-bacterial activity, the exact molecular mechanisms underlying its mode of action are not fully understood. In the current study, the effects of BP on cell viability, antioxidant status and, IL-1 and IL-8 gene expression were investigated in HaCaT keratinocytes. Keratinocytes incubated for 24 h with BP exhibited a dose-dependent cytotoxicity at concentrations above 250 microM. Furthermore, in the presence of 300 microM BP about 50% of the cellular vitamin E was depleted within the first 30 min. The intracellular ratio of oxidized to reduced glutathione (GSSG/GSH) was increased significantly starting 6 h after BP treatments indicating that BP reacts rapidly with targets in the cell membrane and more slowly with those in the cytosol. NF-kappaB transactivation was not significantly affected by BP. However, BP treatment of HaCaT keratinocytes resulted in a dose-dependent increase in IL-1alpha gene expression whereas no changes in IL-8 mRNA levels were observed. These results demonstrate that BP induces an inflammatory reaction mediated by oxidative stress by a pathway independent of the redox-sensitive transcription factor NF-kappaB.

An experimental approach to study the binding properties of vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) during hairless mouse skin permeation

An experimental approach to study the binding properties of vitamin E has been developed. Total vitamin E solubility in the skin was determined by a partition study, followed by in vitro skin permeation studies with whole skin and stripped skin. The amount of freely diffusable vitamin E in the diffusion process was determined from the permeation profiles of whole skin and stripped skin by employing a bi-layer model. The concentrations of vitamin E in the stratum corneum and viable dermis were determined separately. By subtracting this amount from the total concentration of vitamin E in the skin, as determined by the solubility study, the amount of bound vitamin E was determined. After skin permeation reached a steady state, the donor solution was removed and the permeation study continued (desorption study). During the entire period of the desorption experiment, the amount of vitamin E in the receptor solution hardly increased and remained constant. After the desorption experiment, vitamin E still remaining in the skin was determined by extracting with tissue solubilizer, SOLABLE, and is considered as the amount of vitamin E strongly bound in the skin. The concentrations of bound vitamin E determined by permeation and desorption studies coincided relatively well. To further investigate skin binding of vitamin E, a differential scanning calorimetry study was performed. Vitamin E-treated stratum corneum showed phase transitions at 76 and 85 degrees C, associated with lipid transitions. The thermal transitions associated with the lipid transition suggested interactions of vitamin E with lipid components of the skin. During skin permeation, vitamin E forms a very strong reservoir in the skin tissue and this amount of vitamin E, about 30%, exists as a bound-form with the lipid components of the stratum corneum.

Activation pattern of Langerhans cells in the afferent and efferent phases of contact hypersensitivity

Langerhans cells are MHC class II (Ia) positive antigen-presenting cells that play a crucial role in the induction of contact hypersensitivity (CHS). The topical application of a hapten modifies the cell surface moieties of Langerhans cells, and activates Langerhans cells to increase their size and Ia intensity. The haptenated and activated Langerhans cells emigrate from the epidermis and thus the in situ density of Langerhans cells usually decreases during 24-48 h after the hapten application in CHS. To determine whether the early activation pattern of Langerhans cells is different between the afferent phase and the efferent phase of CHS, we compared the density and morphologic changes of Langerhans cells in CHS to trinitrochlorobenzene using nonsensitized and sensitized mice. We found that the application of a hapten induces more significant enlargement of Langerhans cell size in the afferent phase than in the efferent phase, whereas the reduction of Langerhans cell density is more marked in the efferent than in the afferent phase of CHS. Moreover, topical immunosuppressive drugs inhibit the in situ activation of Langerhans cells.