New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The molecular arrangement of ceramides in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase of stratum corneum models shows a high adaptability to different ceramide head group structures

The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol and free fatty acids (FFA), has an important role for the skin barrier function. The presence of the long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique lamellar phase, is characteristic for the SC. Insight into the lipid molecular arrangement within the LPP unit cell is imperative for understanding the relationship between the lipid subclasses and the skin barrier function. In this study, the impact of the CER head group structure on the lipid arrangement and barrier functionality was investigated using lipid models forming the LPP. The results demonstrate that the positions of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), two essentials CER subclasses, are not influenced by the addition of another CER subclass (N-(tetracosanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER NdS), N-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER AS) or D-(2R-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER AP)). However, differences are observed in the lipid organization and the hydrogen bonding network of the three different models. A similar localization of CER NP and CER NS is also observed in a more complex lipid model, with the CER subclass composition mimicking that of human SC. These studies show the adaptability and insensitivity of the LPP unit cell structure to changes in the lipid head group structures of the CER subclasses.

Solvent and Crystallization Effects on the Dermal Absorption of Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Compounds

This study probes the mechanisms by which volatile solvents (water, ethanol) and a nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100) influence the skin permeation of dissolved solutes following deposition of small doses onto unoccluded human skin. A secondary objective was to sharpen guidelines for the use of these and other simple solvent systems for dermal safety testing of cosmetic ingredients at finite doses. Four solutes were studied - niacinamide, caffeine, testosterone and geraniol - at doses close to that estimated to saturate the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Methods included tensiometry, visualization of spreading on skin, polarized light microscopy and in vitro permeation testing using radiolabeled solutes. Ethanol, aqueous ethanol and dilute aqueous Triton solutions all yielded surface tensions below 36 mN/m, allowing them to spread easily on the skin, unlike water (72.4 mN/m) which did not spread. Deposition onto skin of niacinamide (32 μg·cm-2) or caffeine (3.2 μg·cm-2) from water and ethanol led to crystalline deposits on the skin surface, whereas the same amounts applied from aqueous ethanol and 2 % Triton did not. Skin permeation of these compounds was inversely correlated to the extent of crystallization. A separate study with caffeine showed the absence of a dose-related skin permeability increase with Triton. Permeation of testosterone (8.2 μg·cm-2) was modestly increased when dosed from aqueous ethanol versus ethanol. Permeation of geraniol (2.9 μg·cm-2) followed the order aqueous ethanol > water ∼ 2 % Triton >> ethanol and was inversely correlated with evaporative loss. We conclude that, under the conditions tested, aqueous ethanol and Triton serve primarily as deposition aids and do not substantially disrupt stratum corneum lipids. Implications for the design of in vitro skin permeability tests are discussed.

Non-invasive biochemical analysis and comparison of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis skin using handheld confocal Raman spectroscopy

A handheld non-invasive confocal Raman system (CRS) was used to evaluate the differences in skin biochemicals between atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis, which are inflammatory skin conditions. Raman spectral measurements in the fingerprint and high wavenumber region were acquired using a portable in-house CRS system with excitation lasers operating at 671 and 785 nm. It was deduced that relative amount of water decreases in the following sequence of skin: healthy, psoriasis and AD. Moreover, differential trends were observed for the subclasses of ceramides such that ceramide 3 is lower in the lesional AD and psoriasis skin as compared to healthy, while ceramide 2 showed a contrasting trend of decrease in lesional AD and increase in lesional psoriasis as opposed to healthy skin. Amount of cholesterol was significantly higher in lesional psoriasis as compared to lesional AD and healthy skin. These differences can aid in an objective classification of the skin conditions and in the formulation of new disease-specific topical treatments.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Trajectory of stratum corneum lipid subclasses in the first year of life and associations with atopic dermatitis: A prospective cohort study

BACKGROUND

Trajectories of stratum corneum (SC) lipid subclasses and their associations with infant atopic dermatitis (AD) are unclear. This study aimed to quantify the trajectories of 15 SC subclasses and carbon chain lengths and their associations with AD within 12 months.

METHODS

In total, 213 newborns were enrolled at birth with nonlesional skin samples collected from the inner forearm at birth, 42 days, 3, 6, and 12 months, respectively. Lesional skin samples were collected from 120 AD patients at clinic with the disease onset within the first year of life. Mass spectrometry was applied to assess relative contents of 12 ceramide (CER), three free fatty acid (FFA) subclasses, and average carbon chain length (CCL). AD incident within 1 year old was diagnosed by dermatologists according to UK criteria.

RESULTS

Sixty-four (30.0%) cases of ADs occurred in the cohort. All SC lipid subclasses and CCLs, but EOP varied significantly during the first year. AD infants showed lower NP but higher NS, NH, AP, hydroxy FFA, and CCL of FFAs compared with nonaffected infants. After normalization by age, the differences remained and were more pronounced in lesional skin of clinical AD infants compared with non-ADs. NS, NH, and CCL of FFAs in lesional skin of AD infants showed positive and significant correlations with the levels of transepidermal water loss at 3 month; some evidence supports a negative correlation for NP.

CONCLUSIONS

We provide an overview of developmental trajectories of 15 CER and FFA subclasses across the first year of healthy infants and a link between the imbalance of some subclasses with the development of AD.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

Spectrophotometric- and LC/MS-Based Lipidomics Analyses Revealed Changes in Lipid Profiles of Pike Eel (Muraenesox cinereus) Treated with Stable Chlorine Dioxides and Vacuum-Packed during Chilled Storage

Spectrophotometric- and liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry (LC/MS)-based lipidomics analyses were performed to explore the changes of lipid profiles in pike eel (Muraenesox cinereus) under stable chlorine dioxides (ClO₂) and vacuum-packed treatment during chilled storage. The peroxide value (PV) and malondialdehyde (MDA) content in ClO₂ treated and vacuum-packaged (VP) samples were significantly reduced compared to simple-packaged (SP) samples during whole chilled storage. The LC/MS-based lipidomics analyses identified 2182 lipid species in the pike eel muscle classified into 39 subclasses, including 712 triglycerides (TGs), 310 phosphatidylcholines (PCs), 153 phosphatidylethanolamines (PEs), and 147 diglycerides (DGs), among others. Further, in comparison with fresh pike eel (FE) muscle, 354 and 164 higher and 420 and 193 lower abundant levels of differentially abundant lipids (DALs) were identified in SP samples and VP samples, respectively. Compared with the VP batch, 396 higher and 404 lower abundant levels of DALs were identified in the SP batch. Among these, PCs, PEs, TGs, and DGs were more easily oxidized/hydrolyzed, which could be used as biomarkers to distinguish FE, SP, and VP samples. This research provides a reference for controlling lipid oxidation in fatty fish.

Bifunctional DEGS2 has higher hydroxylase activity toward substrates with very-long-chain fatty acids in the production of phytosphingosine ceramides

Phytosphingosine (PHS) is a sphingolipid component present mainly in epithelial tissues, including the epidermis and those lining the digestive tract. DEGS2 is a bifunctional enzyme that produces ceramides (CERs) containing PHS (PHS-CERs) via hydroxylation and sphingosine-CERs via desaturation, using dihydrosphingosine-CERs as substrates. Until now, the role of DEGS2 in permeability barrier functioning, its contribution to PHS-CER production, and the mechanism that differentiates between these two activities have been unknown. Here, we analyzed the barrier functioning of the epidermis, esophagus, and anterior stomach of Degs2 KO mice and found that there were no differences between Degs2 KO and WT mice, indicating normal permeability barriers in the KO mice. In the epidermis, esophagus, and anterior stomach of Degs2 KO mice, PHS-CER levels were greatly reduced relative to WT mice, but PHS-CERs were still present. We obtained similar results for DEGS2 KO human keratinocytes. These results indicate that although DEGS2 plays a major role in PHS-CER production, another synthesis pathway exists as well. Next, we examined the fatty acid (FA) composition of PHS-CERs in various mouse tissues and found that PHS-CER species containing very-long-chain FAs (≥C21) were more abundant than those containing long-chain FAs (C11-C20). A cell-based assay system revealed that the desaturase and hydroxylase activities of DEGS2 toward substrates with different FA chain lengths differed and that its hydroxylase activity was higher toward substrates containing very-long-chain FAs. Collectively, our findings contribute to the elucidation of the molecular mechanism of PHS-CER production.

Microphase transitions of Langmuir-Blodgett lipid-assembled monolayers with new types of ceramides, ultra-long-chain ceramide and 1-O-acylceramide

HYPOTHESIS

Intercellular lipid lamellae, consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, are the primary pathways for substances in the stratum corneum (SC). The microphase transition of lipid-assembled monolayers (LAMs), mimicking an initial layer of the SC, would be affected by new types of ceramides: ceramide with ultra-long chain (CULC) and 1-O-acylceramide (CENP) with three chains in different direction.

EXPERIMENTS

The LAMs were fabricated with varying the mixing ratio of CULC (or CENP) against base ceramide via Langmuir-Blodgett assembly. Surface pressure-area isotherms and elastic modulus-surface pressure plots were obtained to characterize π-dependent microphase transitions. The surface morphology of LAMs was observed by atomic force microscopy.

FINDINGS

The CULCs favored lateral lipid packing, and the CENPs hindered the lateral lipid packing by lying alignment, which was due to their different molecular structures and conformations. The sporadic clusters and empty spaces in the LAMs with CULC were presumably due to the short-range interactions and self-entanglements of ultra-long alkyl chains following the freely jointed chain model, respectively, which was not noticeably observed in the neat LAM films and the LAM films with CENP. The addition of surfactants disrupted the lateral packing of lipids, thus weakening the LAM elasticity. These findings allowed us to understand the role of CULC and CENP in the lipid assemblies and microphase transition behaviors in an initial layer of SC.

Effects and Mode of Action of Oleic Acid and Tween 80 on Skin Permeation of Disulfiram

Oral disulfiram (DSF) has been used clinically for alcohol dependence and recently has been found to have antitumor activity. A transdermal delivery system would be useful for maintaining drug concentration and reducing the frequency of administration of DSF for cancer treatment. Penetrating the stratum corneum (SC) barrier is a challenge to the transdermal delivery of DSF. Therefore, we investigated the promoting effects and mechanism of action of the combination of oleic acid (OA) and Tween 80 on the skin permeation of DSF. Hairless mouse skin was exposed to OA and Tween 80, combined in various ratios (1:0, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, and 0:1). A permeation experiment was performed, and total internal reflection infrared spectroscopic measurements, differential scanning calorimetry, and synchrotron radiation X-ray diffraction measurements were taken of the SC with each applied formulation. The combination of OA and Tween 80 further enhanced the absorption-promoting effect of DSF, compared with individual application. The peak of the CH₂ inverse symmetric stretching vibration near the skin surface temperature was shifted by a high frequency due to the application of OA, and DSF solubility increased in response to Tween 80. We believe that the increased fluidity of the intercellular lipids due to OA and the increased solubility of DSF due to Tween 80 promoted the absorption of DSF. Our study clarifies the detailed mechanism of action of the skin permeation and promoting effect of DSF through the combined use of OA and Tween 80, contributing to the development of a transdermal preparation of DSF.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

The importance of ceramide headgroup for lipid localisation in skin lipid models

The stratum corneum's lipid matrix is a critical for the skin's barrier function and is primarily composed of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The lipids form a long periodicity phase (LPP), a unique trilayer unit cell structure. An enzyme driven pathway is implemented to synthesize these key lipids. If these enzymes are down- or upregulated as in inflammatory diseases, the final lipid composition is affected often altering the barrier function. In this study, we mimicked down regulation of enzymes involved in the synthesis of the sphingosine and CER amide bond. In a LPP lipid model, we substituted CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) with either i) FFA C24 and free sphingosine, to simulate the loss of the CER amide bond, or ii) with FFA C24 and C18 to simulate the loss of the sphingosine headgroup. Our study shows the lipids in the LPP would not phase separate until at least 25% of the CER NS is substituted keeping the lateral packing and conformational ordering unaltered. Neutron diffraction studies showed that free sphingosine chains localized at the outer layers of the unit cell, while the remaining CER NS head group was concentrated in the inner headgroup layers. However, when FFA C18 was inserted, CER NS was dispersed throughout the LPP, resulting in an even distribution between the inner and outer water layers. The presented results highlight the importance of the CER NS headgroup structure and its interaction in combination with the carbon chain invariability for optimal lipid arrangement.

Comparison of the Phytochemical Variation of Non-Volatile Metabolites within Mother Tinctures of Arnica montana Prepared from Fresh and Dried Whole Plant Using UHPLC-HRMS Fingerprinting and Chemometric Analysis

Arnica montana L. has been recognized for centuries as an herbal remedy to treat wounds and promote healing. It also has a long tradition of use in homeopathy. Depending on its medicinal utilization, standardization regulations allow different manufacturing processes, implying different raw materials, such as the whole arnica plant in its fresh or dried state. In this study, an untargeted metabolomics approach with UHPLC-HRMS/MS was used to cross-compare the phytochemical composition of mother tinctures of A. montana that were prepared from either fresh whole plant (fMT) matter or from oven-dried whole plant (dMT) matter. The multivariate data analysis showed significant differences between fMT and dMT. The dereplication of the HRMS and MS/MS spectra of the more discriminant compounds led to annotated quinic acid, dicaffeoyl quinic acids, ethyl caffeate, thymol derivatives and dehydrophytosphingosine, which were increased in fMT, while Amadori rearrangement products (ARP) and methoxyoxaloyl-dicaffeoyl quinic acid esters were enhanced in dMT. Neither sesquiterpene lactones nor flavonoids were affected by the drying process. This is the first time that a sphingosine, ethyl caffeate and ARP are described in A. montana. Moreover, putative new natural products were detected as 10-hydroxy-8,9-epoxy-thymolisobutyrate and an oxidized proline fructose conjugate, for which isolation and full structure elucidation will be necessary to verify this finding.

Ceramide NPs Derived from Natural Oils of Korean Traditional Plants Enhance Skin Barrier Functions and Stimulate Expressions of Genes for Epidermal Homeostasis

BACKGROUND

New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine(PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids AIMS: To investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.

METHODS

The expressions of genes related with epidermal differentiation was analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect of TEWL and SC cohesion.

RESULTS

The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14 and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.

CONCLUSION

Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.

Skin Care Formulations and Lipid Carriers as Skin Moisturizing Agents

Skin care formulations have evolved as the interaction of health and beauty products for the skin. Their benefits are based on the combination of cosmetic active ingredients and targeted application. Cosmetic actives have been used in novel formulations for decades (sunscreens, anti-aging treatments, etc.), but the problems with their low solubility, low penetration, and physicochemical instability when applied to the skin have yet to be solved. One way to circumvent these shortcomings is to use lipid carriers, which are known to play an important role in the solubility of poorly soluble compounds by facilitating skin permeation and improving stability. This review addresses recent advances in skin care products that use novel nanotechnology-based lipid systems (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc.) to deliver moisturizing cosmetic actives and improve product efficacy.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Physical-Chemical Characterization of CER[AP]: A Study of Stereochemistry and Chain Symmetry

The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Dietary Ceramide Prepared from Soy Sauce Lees Improves Skin Barrier Function in Hairless Mice

Dietary sphingolipids such as glucosylceramide and sphingomyelin are known to improve the skin barrier function of damaged skin. In this study, we focused on free-ceramide prepared from soy sauce lees, which is a byproduct of soy sauce production. The effects of dietary soy sauce lees ceramide on the skin of normal mice were evaluated and compared with those of dietary maize glucosylceramide. We found that transepidermal water loss value was significantly suppressed by dietary supplementation with soy sauce lees ceramide as effectively as or more effectively than maize glucosylceramide. Although the content of total and each subclass of ceramide in the epidermis was not significantly altered by dietary sphingolipids, that of 12 types of ceramide molecules, which were not present in dietary sources, was significantly increased upon ingestion of maize glucosylceramide and showed a tendency to increase with soy sauce lees ceramide intake. In addition, the mRNA expression of ceramide synthase 4 and involucrin in the skin was downregulated by sphingolipids. This study, for the first time, demonstrated that dietary soy sauce lees ceramide enhances skin barrier function in normal hairless mice, although further studies are needed to clarify the molecular mechanism.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Current Advances of Nanocarrier Technology-Based Active Cosmetic Ingredients for Beauty Applications

Nanocarrier technology has been effectively applied to the development of drug delivery systems to overcome the limitations of traditional preparation. Its application has been extended to various pharmaceutical fields from injection preparation to oral preparation and external preparation, and now it has appeared in the field of cosmetics for beauty applications. The widespread influence of nanocarrier in the cosmetics industry is due to the fact that nanocarrier can effectively promote the percutaneous penetration and significantly increase skin retention of active components in functional cosmetics. Meanwhile, nanocarrier can effectively improve the water dispersion of insoluble active cosmetic ingredients, enhance the stability of efficacy components and achieve the codelivery of diverse cosmetics active ingredients. In this review, we summarized the current progress of nanocarrier technology in the functional cosmetics, including the types and the routes of dermal/transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers used in the functional cosmetics, the mechanism of nanocarriers promoting the percutaneous penetration of active cosmetic ingredients, the application and efficacy evaluation of different active cosmetic ingredients in nanocarriers and discussing the potential risks to human. This will provide a useful reference for the further development of nanocarriers in the field of functional cosmetics.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

The Importance of Free Fatty Chain Length on the Lipid Organization in the Long Periodicity Phase

The skin's barrier ability is an essential function for terrestrial survival, which is controlled by intercellular lipids within the stratum corneum (SC) layer. In this barrier, free fatty acids (FFAs) are an important lipid class. As seen in inflammatory skin diseases, when the lipid chain length is reduced, a reduction in the barrier's performance is observed. In this study, we have investigated the contributing effects of various FFA chain lengths on the lamellar phase, lateral packing. The repeat distance of the lamellar phase increased with FFA chain length (C20-C28), while shorter FFAs (C16 to C18) had the opposite behaviour. While the lateral packing was affected, the orthorhombic to hexagonal to fluid phase transitions were not affected by the FFA chain length. Porcine SC lipid composition mimicking model was then used to investigate the proportional effect of shorter FFA C16, up to 50% content of the total FFA mixture. At this level, no difference in the overall lamellar phases and lateral packing was observed, while a significant increase in the water permeability was detected. Our results demonstrate a FFA C16 threshold that must be exceeded before the structure and barrier function of the long periodicity phase (LPP) is affected. These results are important to understand the lipid behaviour in this unique LPP structure as well as for the understanding, treatment, and development of inflammatory skin conditions.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

Foray into Concepts of Design and Evaluation of Microemulsions as a Modern Approach for Topical Applications in Acne Pathology

With a fascinating complexity, governed by multiple physiological processes, the skin is considered a mantle with protective functions which during lifetime are frequently impaired, triggering dermatologic disorders. As one of the most prevalent dermatologic conditions worldwide, characterized by a complex pathogenesis and a high recurrence, acne can affect the patient's quality of life. Smart topical vehicles represent a good option in the treatment of a versatile skin condition. By surpassing the stratum corneum known for diffusional resistance, a superior topical bioavailability can be obtained at the affected place. In this direction, the literature study presents microemulsions as a part of a condensed group of modern formulations. Microemulsions are appreciated for their superior profile in matters of drug delivery, especially for challenging substances with hydrophilic or lipophilic structures. Formulated as transparent and thermodynamically stable systems, using simplified methods of preparation, microemulsions have a simple and clear appearance. Their unique structures can be explained as a function of the formulation parameters which were found to be the mainstay of a targeted therapy.

High concentration of the ester-linked ω-hydroxy ceramide increases the permeability in skin lipid model membranes

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

Corneotherapie – Pflege und Reparatur der Haut: präzise, effektiv und nachhaltig

Die Pflege und Gesunderhaltung der Haut ist nicht nur für ein gutes Aussehen, sondern auch für das allgemeine Wohlbefinden essenziell. Viele Menschen investieren daher für die Hautpflege nicht nur viel Zeit, sondern auch viel Geld. Oft stellt sich jedoch die Frage, welche Produkte aus der Vielfalt an Angeboten nun besonders effektiv und empfehlenswert sind. Der Artikel gibt darüber Auskunft. Er erläutert die Grundlagen und aktuellen Erkenntnisse der Corneobiologie und zeigt, wie eine präzise, effektive und nachhaltige Hautpflege heute aussehen sollte.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Skin barrier lipid enzyme activity in Netherton patients is associated with protease activity and ceramide abnormalities

Individuals with Netherton syndrome (NTS) have increased serine protease activity, which strongly impacts the barrier function of the skin epidermis and leads to skin inflammation. Here, we investigated how serine protease activity in NTS correlates with changes in the stratum corneum (SC) ceramides, which are crucial components of the skin barrier. We examined two key enzymes involved in epidermal ceramide biosynthesis, β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA) and acid-sphingomyelinase (ASM). We compared in situ expression levels and activities of GBA and ASM between NTS patients and controls and correlated the expression and activities with i) SC ceramide profiles, ii) in situ serine protease activity, and iii) clinical presentation of patients. Using activity-based probe labeling, we visualized and localized active epidermal GBA, and a newly developed in situ zymography method enabled us to visualize and localize active ASM. Reduction in active GBA in NTS patients coincided with increased ASM activity, particularly in areas with increased serine protease activity. NTS patients with scaly erythroderma exhibited more pronounced anomalies in GBA and ASM activities than patients with ichthyosis linearis circumflexa. They also displayed a stronger increase in SC ceramides processed via ASM. We conclude that changes in the localization of active GBA and ASM correlate with i) altered SC ceramide composition in NTS patients, ii) local serine protease activity, and iii) the clinical manifestation of NTS.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.