Glycerol and urea can be used to increase skin permeability in reduced hydration conditions

Skin penetration enhancers: Mechanistic understanding and their selection for formulation and design

The skin functions as a formidable barrier, particularly the stratum corneum, effectively restricting the penetration of most substances, including therapeutic agents. To circumvent this barrier, skin penetration enhancers (SPEs) are frequently employed to transiently increase skin permeability, facilitating drug absorption without causing irritation or damage. Despite advancements in dermal formulation development, a deeper understanding of the fundamental science underpinning drug delivery via SPEs remains essential. This review delivers a critical update on conventional SPEs, exploring their mechanisms in promoting drug permeation across the skin. In addition to offering an overview of percutaneous drug delivery, we examine the prevailing theories on how SPEs enhance drug transport. Furthermore, we address the intricate interplay between SPEs, drugs and the skin, providing valuable insights into how the molecular properties and permeation behaviours of SPEs influence their efficacy. This comprehensive review aims to support the ongoing development of optimised drug delivery systems for dermal applications by elucidating the complexities and challenges involved in using SPEs effectively.

Niacinamide and its impact on stratum corneum hydration and structure

Niacinamide (NIA) is widely used in skincare for its favorable safety profile, anti-aging effects, and proven clinical efficacy in treating various skin conditions. However, its direct impact on the hydration and molecular organization of the stratum corneum (SC), the primary skin barrier, remains unclear. This study examines how NIA influences the SC's lipid matrix organization, soft keratin structure, and water sorption behavior across varying relative humidity (RH) levels. Using small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction and dynamic vapor sorption measurements, we compared NIA-treated SC samples to untreated controls under different RHs. The main findings show that while NIA is non-hygroscopic, it enhances water uptake of the SC at high humidity (95% RH). At low humidity (60% RH), NIA swells the keratin monomer spacing, although the SC water content remains low, suggesting a plasticizing effect that could increase SC flexibility in dry conditions. NIA also modifies the diffraction intensities from the lipid matrix differently at 60% and 95% RH, implying that it interacts with the SC lipid matrix and influences the water distribution within the SC lipid and protein domains. These effects appear independent of the investigated dose regime, indicating a specific concentration threshold. Overall, NIA shows distinct interaction with keratin, swelling the spacing between keratin monomers in dry conditions, without acting as a traditional keratolytic agent.

Enhancing Buccal Drug Delivery: The Impact of Glycerol in Slot-Die-Coated Pectin Films

Buccal delivery offers a promising alternative to e.g., oral or parenteral drug administrations by leveraging the mucosal membranes of the mouth to enhance drug absorption and enhance patient compliance. Buccal films offer a promising approach for enhancing drug delivery by utilizing the mucoadhesive properties of the biopolymer pectin and glycerol's plasticizing effects. Designed to provide fast drug release, these films address the challenges of patient compliance, particularly among the elderly, children, and individuals with dysphagia. This study characterized the physicochemical properties of slot-die-coated films with pectin containing varying amounts of glycerol, including swelling behavior, disintegration rate, mechanical properties, mucoadhesion, and drug release profiles, using paracetamol as a model drug. Different methods such as quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation and open-source force analyzer were employed for the characterization. The results demonstrated that a high glycerol content in the films led to slower drug release with 95% paracetamol released for film without glycerol (GLY0) compared to only 74% released for film with 20% w/v glycerol (GLY20) after 60 min Additionally, higher glycerol levels resulted in enhanced mucoadhesive properties. Films containing 20% glycerol also showed superior permeability of paracetamol through ex vivo porcine buccal mucosa, with double the amount of paracetamol permeating in the first 120 min from GLY20 films compared to GLY0 films. These findings suggest that the pectin-glycerol buccal films, fabricated with slot-die coating as a novel technique, are user-friendly, exhibit interaction with the mucosa, and can be adjusted for specific disintegration and drug release rates, presenting a promising option for efficient, targeted drug delivery.

Structure and function of skin barrier lipids: Effects of hydration and natural moisturizers in vitro

Lipid membranes play a crucial role in regulating the body's water balance by adjusting their properties in response to hydration. The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost skin layer, serves as the body's primary defense against environmental factors. Osmolytes, including urocanic acid (UCA) and glycerol, are key components of the natural moisturizing factor that help the SC resist osmotic stress from dry environments. This study examines the effects of UCA and glycerol (each at 5 mol %) on isolated human SC lipids. For this, different techniques were employed, offering complementary information of the system's multiscale characteristics, including humidity-scanning quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring, infrared spectroscopy, x-ray diffraction, electrical impedance spectroscopy, and studies of water loss and permeability. Our results show that UCA increases water sorption and makes lipid films more liquid-like at high relative humidity, without significantly altering the lipid lamellar structure, chain order, or orthorhombic chain packing. Lipid films containing UCA exhibited higher water loss and significantly higher model drug permeability compared to lipid films without UCA. Further, incorporation of UCA resulted in kinetically faster changes in electrical properties upon contact with aqueous solution compared with control lipids. These observations suggest that UCA reduces lipid cohesion in regions other than the acyl chain-rich leaflets, which may impact SC desquamation. In contrast, glycerol did not influence the hydration or permeability of the SC lipid matrix. However, it increased the proportion of orthorhombic domains at high humidities and slowed the kinetics of the hydration process, as evidenced by slower changes in the dielectric properties of the lipid film. These findings suggest that glycerol enhances lipid cohesion rather than increasing water uptake, which is typically the expected function of humectants. Consequently, UCA and glycerol appear to have distinct roles in maintaining epidermal homeostasis.

Extreme makeover: the incredible cell membrane adaptations of extremophiles to harsh environments

The existence of life beyond Earth has long captivated humanity, and the study of extremophiles-organisms surviving and thriving in extreme environments-provides crucial insights into this possibility. Extremophiles overcome severe challenges such as enzyme inactivity, protein denaturation, and damage of the cell membrane by adopting several strategies. This feature article focuses on the molecular strategies extremophiles use to maintain the cell membrane's structure and fluidity under external stress. Key strategies include homeoviscous adaptation (HVA), involving the regulation of lipid composition, and osmolyte-mediated adaptation (OMA), where small organic molecules protect the lipid membrane under stress. Proteins also have direct and indirect roles in protecting the lipid membrane. Examining the survival strategies of extremophiles provides scientists with crucial insights into how life can adapt and persist in harsh conditions, shedding light on the origins of life. This article examines HVA and OMA and their mechanisms in maintaining membrane stability, emphasizing our contributions to this field. It also provides a brief overview of the roles of proteins and concludes with recommendations for future research directions.

Formulation design and physicochemical evaluation of an anti-inflammatory hydrogel patch containing Crinum asiaticum L. extract

Background and purpose

Crinum asiaticum L. has long been used in Thai traditional medicine to treat osteoarthritis and inflammation by placing it on painful areas without further formulation design which is suboptimal for therapeutic use. Thus, this research aims to formulate a topical hydrogel patch containing C. asiaticum L. extracts (CAE) for anti-inflammatory effects.

Experimental approach

The hydrogel patches are made from carrageenan, locust bean gum, with glycerin as a plasticizer and contain CAE formulated by using response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken design for design, determination of the effect of independent factors on the tensile strength, and optimization of the hydrogel patch formulation. In vitro release and skin permeation studies using a modified Franz diffusion cell and anti-inflammatory activity were evaluated.

Findings/Results

The optimized CAE hydrogel patch showed a good correlation between predicted and observed tensile strength values and exerted its maximum cumulative lycorine release and permeation at 69.38 ± 2.78% and 48.51 ± 0.45%, respectively which were fit to Higuchi's kinetic model. The release rates were found to decrease with an increase in the polymer proportion of carrageenan and locust bean gum. In addition, the patch exerted potent in vitro anti-inflammatory activity with an IC50 value of 21.36 ± 0.78 μg/mL.

Conclusion and implication

The optimized CAE hydrogel patch application was successfully formulated with excellent mechanical properties, cumulative release, permeation, and anti-inflammatory effects. Thus, it has the potential to be further developed as a herbal application to relieve pain and inflammation. The in vivo anti-inflammatory effect of this delivery system should be further investigated.

Human glabrous skin contains crystallized urea dendriform structures in the stratum corneum which affect the hydration levels

Glabrous skin is hair-free skin with a high density of sweat glands, which is found on the palms, and soles of mammalians, covered with a thick stratum corneum. Dry hands are often an occupational problem which deserves attention from dermatologists. Urea is found in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factor and of sweat. We report the discovery of dendrimer structures of crystalized urea in the stratum corneum of palmar glabrous skin using laser scanning microscopy. The chemical and structural nature of the urea crystallites was investigated in vivo by non-invasive techniques. The relation of crystallization to skin hydration was explored. We analysed the index finger, small finger and tenar palmar area of 18 study participants using non-invasive optical methods, such as laser scanning microscopy, Raman microspectroscopy and two-photon tomography. Skin hydration was measured using corneometry. Crystalline urea structures were found in the stratum corneum of about two-thirds of the participants. Participants with a higher density of crystallized urea structures exhibited a lower skin hydration. The chemical nature and the crystalline structure of the urea were confirmed by Raman microspectroscopy and by second harmonic generated signals in two-photon tomography. The presence of urea dendrimer crystals in the glabrous skin seems to reduce the water binding capacity leading to dry hands. These findings highlight a new direction in understanding the mechanisms leading to dry hands and open opportunities for the development of better moisturizers and hand disinfection products and for diagnostic of dry skin.

The use of urea for skin barrier correction

The review summarizes information about the main causes and pathogenesis of xerosis cutis as one of the conditions indicating a violation of the epidermal barrier. Xerosis cutis is a clinical sign of a decrease in the amount and/or quality of lipids and/or hydrophilic substances in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The modern approach to the treatment of dermatoses accompanied by violations of the epidermal barrier includes basic moisturizers. Urea not only moisturizes the skin. It is involved in the regulation of barrier function and antimicrobial protection. It is a low-molecular regulator of protein synthesis in keratinocytes, such as filaggrin, loricrin, involucrin and transglutaminase 1, cathelicidin, beta-defensin-2, water and urea carrier proteins into the cell, as well as proteins that promote the synthesis of intercellular matrix lipids. The main dermatotropic pharmacological effects of urea (hydration of the epidermis, strengthening of the barrier function of the skin, keratolytic effect, increased penetration of drugs into the skin) have been used in dermatological practice for many years. External agents with urea are used to treat skin diseases accompanied by dryness and excessive keratinization, to correct the deformation of nail plates of various genesis, to facilitate the local penetration of medicines. The use of topical UrocrEM5, UrocrEM10, Uroderm ointments containing 5%, 10% and 30% urea, respectively, is effective and safe.

The effect of dilution of fusidic acid cream and betamethasone dipropionate cream in complex extemporaneous mixes on formulation performance

The Aron regimen is an unconventional therapy which entails frequent applications of an extemporaneously prepared three component system (a topical antibiotic, a corticosteroid and an emollient), with the intention of decolonising the skin of S. aureus whilst treating atopic dermatitis. The impact of heavily diluting these topical medicinal products, to differing extents, on formulation performance is not well understood thus was investigated in this study. Following a single application of a range of compounded Aron mixes (fusidic acid and betamethasone dipropionate diluted to varying extents in an emollient base), significant reductions in the expected drug flux across silicone membrane, ex vivo percutaneous absorption and skin retention of both drugs relative to the marketed products were observed. This was attributed to a number of complex formulation effects making such changes difficult to predict in a clinical setting. Further investigations are required to evaluate the impact of frequent applications of the Aron mix to widespread areas on clinical efficacy, antimicrobial resistance and long term side effects.

Parabens Permeation through Biological Membranes: A Comparative Study Using Franz Cell Diffusion System and Biomimetic Liquid Chromatography

Parabens (PBs) are used as preservatives to extend the shelf life of various foodstuffs, and pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In this work, the membrane barrier passage potential of a subset of seven parabens, i.e., methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, and benzyl paraben, along with their parent compound, p-hydroxy benzoic acid, were studied. Thus, the Franz cell diffusion (FDC) method, biomimetic liquid chromatography (BLC), and in silico prediction were performed to evaluate the soundness of both describing their permeation through the skin. While BLC allowed the achievement of a full scale of affinity for membrane phospholipids of the PBs under research, the permeation of parabens through Franz diffusion cells having a carbon chain > ethyl could not be measured in a fully aqueous medium, i.e., permeation enhancer-free conditions. Our results support that BLC and in silico prediction alone can occasionally be misleading in the permeability potential assessment of these preservatives, emphasizing the need for a multi-technique and integrated experimental approach.

Optimization of Quercetin Gel Formulation using Factorial Design Method and Antibacterial Test against Propionibacterium acnes

Quercetin is a flavonoid from a group of polyphenolic flavonoid compounds. Quercetin can be used as an alternative to acne treatment, predominantly triggered by Propionibacterium acnes. This study aimed to determine the effect and proportion of carbopol 940, propylene glycol, and glycerin on the physical quality of quercetin gel, the ability of the optimum formula in an antibacterial test, and its diffusion using Franz diffusion. This study uses the factorial design method for formula optimization. Optimization was carried out with the parameters of the physical quality of the gel tested, including viscosity, dispersibility, antibacterial, and Franz diffusion. The combination of carbopol 940, glycerin, and propylene glycol affected the physical quality test of quercetin gel, carbopol and glycerin significantly affected viscosity. In contrast, glycerin and propylene glycol significantly affected Franz's dispersion, antibacterial, and diffusion properties. The optimum proportion of the combination of carbopol 940, glycerin, and propylene glycol in the manufacture of quercetin gel using the factorial design method obtained a concentration of carbopol 940 of 0.5%, glycerin of 15%, and propylene glycol of 10%. The optimum formula ability in the antibacterial test was 22.20 mm, and the cumulative percent of quercetin penetrated was 97.91%.

Beneath the Skin: A Review of Current Trends and Future Prospects of Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems

The ideal drug delivery system has a bioavailability comparable to parenteral dosage forms but is as convenient and easy to use for the patient as oral solid dosage forms. In recent years, there has been increased interest in transdermal drug delivery (TDD) as a non-invasive delivery approach that is generally regarded as being easy to administer to more vulnerable age groups, such as paediatric and geriatric patients, while avoiding certain bioavailability concerns that arise from oral drug delivery due to poor absorbability and metabolism concerns. However, despite its many merits, TDD remains restricted to a select few drugs. The physiology of the skin poses a barrier against the feasible delivery of many drugs, limiting its applicability to only those drugs that possess physicochemical properties allowing them to be successfully delivered transdermally. Several techniques have been developed to enhance the transdermal permeability of drugs. Both chemical (e.g., thermal and mechanical) and passive (vesicle, nanoparticle, nanoemulsion, solid dispersion, and nanocrystal) techniques have been investigated to enhance the permeability of drug substances across the skin. Furthermore, hybrid approaches combining chemical penetration enhancement technologies with physical technologies are being intensively researched to improve the skin permeation of drug substances. This review aims to summarize recent trends in TDD approaches and discuss the merits and drawbacks of the various chemical, physical, and hybrid approaches currently being investigated for improving drug permeability across the skin.

Hydrogels and Cubic Liquid Crystals for Non-Invasive Sampling of Low-Molecular-Weight Biomarkers-An Explorative In Vivo Study

The molecular composition of human skin is altered due to diseases, which can be utilized for non-invasive sampling of biomarkers and disease diagnostics. For this to succeed, it is crucial to identify a sampling formulation with high extraction efficiency and reproducibility. Highly hydrated skin is expected to be optimal for increased diffusion of low-molecular-weight biomarkers, enabling efficient extraction as well as enhanced reproducibility as full hydration represents a well-defined endpoint. Here, the aim was to explore water-based formulations with high water activities, ensuring satisfactory skin hydration, for non-invasive sampling of four analytes that may serve as potential biomarkers, namely tryptophan, tyrosine, phenylalanine, and kynurenine. The included formulations consisted of two hydrogels (chitosan and agarose) and two different liquid crystalline cubic phases based on the polar lipid glycerol monooleate, which were all topically applied for 2 h on 35 healthy subjects in vivo. The skin status of all sampling sites was assessed by electrical impedance spectroscopy and transepidermal water loss, enabling explorative correlations between biophysical properties and analyte abundancies. Taken together, all formulations resulted in the successful and reproducible collection of the investigated biomarkers. Still, the cubic phases had an extraction capacity that was approximately two times higher compared to the hydrogels.

Hyperspectral terahertz imaging and optical clearance for cancer classification in breast tumor surgical specimen

Purpose: We investigate the enhancement in terahertz (THz) images of freshly excised breast tumors upon treatment with an optical clearance agent. The hyperspectral imaging and spectral classifications are used to quantitatively demonstrate the image enhancement. Glycerol solution with 60% concentration is applied to excised breast tumor specimens for various time durations to investigate the effectiveness on image enhancement. Approach: THz reflection spectroscopy is utilized to obtain the absorption coefficient and the index of refraction of untreated and glycerol-treated tissues at each frequency up to 3 THz. Two classifiers, spectral angular mapping (SAM) based on several kernels and Euclidean minimum distance (EMD) are implemented to evaluate the effectiveness of the treatment. The testing raw data is obtained from five breast cancer specimens: two untreated specimens and three specimens treated with glycerol solution for 20, 40, or 60 min. All tumors used in the testing data have healthy tissues adjacent to cancerous ones consistent with the challenge faced in lumpectomy surgeries. Results: The glycerol-treated tissues showed a decrease in the absorption coefficients compared with untreated tissues, especially as the period of treatment increased. Although the sensitivity metric of the classifier presented higher values in the untreated tissues compared with the treated ones, the specificity and accuracy metrics demonstrated higher values for the treated tissues compared with the untreated ones. Conclusions: The biocompatible glycerol solution is a potential optical clearance agent in THz imaging while keeping the histopathology imaging intact. The SAM technique provided a good classification of cancerous tissues despite the small amount of cancer in the training data (only 7%). The SAM exponential kernel and EMD presented classification accuracy of ∼ 80 % to 85% compared with linear and polynomial kernels that provided accuracy ranging from 70% to 80%. Overall, glycerol treatment provides a potential improvement in cancer classification in freshly excised breast tumors.

Catalase Activity in Keratinocytes, Stratum Corneum, and Defatted Algae Biomass as a Potential Skin Care Ingredient

The generation of reactive oxygen species presents a destructive challenge for the skin organ and there is a clear need to advance skin care formulations aiming at alleviating oxidative stress. The aim of this work was to characterize the activity of the antioxidative enzyme catalase in keratinocytes and in the skin barrier (i.e., the stratum corneum). Further, the goal was to compare the activity levels with the corresponding catalase activity found in defatted algae biomass, which may serve as a source of antioxidative enzymes, as well as other beneficial algae-derived molecules, to be employed in skin care products. For this, an oxygen electrode-based method was employed to determine the catalase activity and the apparent kinetic parameters for purified catalase, as well as catalase naturally present in HaCaT keratinocytes, excised stratum corneum samples collected from pig ears with various amounts of melanin, and defatted algae biomass from the diatom Phaeodactylum tricornutum. Taken together, this work illustrates the versatility of the oxygen electrode-based method for characterizing catalase function in samples with a high degree of complexity and enables the assessment of sample treatment protocols and comparisons between different biological systems related to the skin organ or algae-derived materials as a potential source of skin care ingredients for combating oxidative stress.

Towards a better mechanistic comprehension of drug permeation and absorption: Introducing the diffusion-partitioning interplay

The process of passive drug absorption from the gastrointestinal tract is still poorly understood and modelled. Additionally, the rapidly evolving field of pharmaceutics demands efficient, affordable and reliable in vitro tools for predicting in vivo performance. In this work, we combined established methods for quantifying drug diffusivity (localized UV-spectroscopy) and permeability (Permeapad® plate) in order to gain a better understanding of the role of unstirred water layers (UWLs) in drug absorption. The effect of diffusion/permeability media composition and viscosity on the apparent permeation resistance (R_app) of model drugs caffeine (CAF) and hydrocortisone (HC) were tested and evaluated by varying the type and concentration of viscosity-enhancing agent - glycerol or a poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) with different average molecular weights. For all types of media, increased viscosity lead to reduction in diffusivity but could not alone explain the observed effect, which was attributed to intermolecular polymer-drug interactions. Additionally, for both drugs, smaller hydrophilic viscosity-enhancing agents (glycerol and PEG 400) had larger influence than larger ones (PEG 3350 and 6000). The results highlighted the role of UWL as an additive barrier to permeation and indicated that diffusion through UWL is the rate-limiting step to CAF's permeation, whilst HC permeability is a partition-driven process.

How Do Urea and Trimethylamine N-Oxide Influence the Dehydration-Induced Phase Transition of a Lipid Membrane?

Living organisms are often exposed to extreme dehydration, which is detrimental to the structure and function of the cell membrane. The lipid membrane undergoes fluid-to-gel phase transition due to dehydration and thus loses fluidity and functionality. To protect the fluid phase of the bilayer these organisms adopt several strategies. Enhanced production of small polar organic solutes (also called osmolytes) is one such strategy. Urea and trimethylamine N-oxide (TMAO) are two osmolytes found in different organisms combating osmotic stress. Previous experiments have found that both these osmolytes have strong effects on lipid membrane under different hydration conditions. Urea prevents the dehydration-induced phase transition of the lipid membrane by directly interacting with the lipids, while TMAO does not inhibit the phase transition. To provide atomistic insights, we have carried out all-atom molecular dynamics (MD) simulation of a lipid membrane under varying hydration levels and studied the effect of these osmolytes on different structural and dynamic properties of the membrane. This study suggests that urea significantly inhibits the dehydration-induced fluid-to-gel phase transition by strongly interacting with the lipid membrane via hydrogen bonds, which balances the reduced lipid hydration due to the decreasing water content. In contrast, TMAO is excluded from the membrane surface due to unfavorable interaction with the lipids. This induces further dehydration of the lipids which reinforces the fluid-to-gel phase transition. We have also studied the counteractive role of TMAO on the effect of urea on lipid membrane when both the osmolytes are present. TMAO draws some urea molecules out of the membrane and thereby reduces the effect of urea on the lipid membrane at lower hydration levels. This is similar to the counteraction of urea's deleterious effects on protein by TMAO. All these observations are consistent with the experimental results and thus provide deep molecular insights into the role of these osmolytes in protecting the fluid phase of the membrane, the key survival strategy against osmotic-stress-induced dehydration.

Onset Mechanism and Pharmaceutical Management of Dry Skin

Dry skin is a common symptom of various conditions, and elderly individuals commonly exhibit this physiological symptom. Dry skin develops owing to sebum deficiency; however, the use of moisturizers can typically overcome this issue, particularly in patients in whom there are no other skin problems. If dry skin is left untreated, itching and eczema can occur, resulting in skin damage. Additionally, hemodialysis patients exhibit reduced barrier function and can experience pain associated with repeated needle insertion; the repeated use of lidocaine tape to manage the pain can cause further skin damage. To reduce the occurrence of dry skin, the skin is hydrated using moisturizers. Dry skin is also prominent in patients with varicose veins in the lower extremities, and many biochemical studies have shown that skin immunity is altered in patients with dry skin. Moreover, the incidences of dry skin and pruritus differ in male and female patients. Furthermore, in elderly patients, zinc deficiency is likely to cause dry skin, and zinc supplementation may maintain skin hydration. To date, few reports have described dry skin from a clinical point of view. In this review, research on dry skin is presented, and the findings of basic research studies are integrated.

Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Skin hydration as a tool to control the distribution and molecular effects of intermediate polarity compounds in intact stratum corneum

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead keratin-filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. The skin is daily exposed to an environment with changing conditions in terms of hydration and different chemicals. Here we investigate how a molecule that has reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to certain regions in SC by changing the skin hydration. We use 1,2,3-trimethoxy propane (TMP) as a model substance and solid-state NMR on natural abundance ¹³C to obtain atomically resolved information on the molecular dynamics of TMP as well as SC lipid and protein components at varying hydration conditions. Upon dehydration, TMP redistributes from the hydrophilic corneocytes to the hydrophobic SC lipid regions. In this way, TMP can act to prevent the fluid-solid lipid transition in drying conditions and be present in the corneocytes in more humid conditions. Hydration can thereby be used as a switch to control the location and action of TMP or similar compounds in complex materials like SC. The general principles described here can also have impact on other applications including lipid-based formulations in food, drug delivery and cosmetics.

Long-term effects of two 24-hour moisturizing products on skin barrier structure and function: A biometric and molecular study

INTRODUCTION

Recently, there are a few moisturizers showing hydrating effects up to 24 hours after single application. Aquaporin 3 might be associated with the degree of skin hydration. We aimed to assess the effects of two brands of 24-hour moisturizers on the skin barrier function, as well as the AQP3 gene expression.

METHOD

Two moisturizers were applied once daily by 20 participants age 36.15 ± 9.55 years. Upper right and left forearms were randomly assigned to application of each product, whereas the right lower forearm served as control site for application of a cream base formulation. Biophysical assessments including trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, pH, surface lipids, and elasticity parameters were performed before intervention, 1, 4, and 24 hours after single application, following 2 weeks daily application and 1 week after termination of use. Also 5-mm punch biopsies were performed from application sites of product B and cream base formulation in for five participants after 2 weeks of application.

RESULTS

A single treatment with both products led to 24-hour increase in skin moisture in comparison with the control site (P-value <.01). Daily application of both products for 14 days also led to significant improvement in skin moisture (P-value <.01), TEWL (P-value <.01), and elasticity parameters. The increase in skin hydration was associated with upregulation of AQP3 gene expression in treated area for one of the formulations (P-value = .04).

CONCLUSION

The tested 24-hour moisturizers only need to be applied once daily to improve skin barrier function and hydration and up-regulate AQP3 mRNA expression.

Probing Skin Barrier Recovery on Molecular Level Following Acute Wounds: An In Vivo/Ex Vivo Study on Pigs

Proper skin barrier function is paramount for our survival, and, suffering injury, there is an acute need to restore the lost barrier and prevent development of a chronic wound. We hypothesize that rapid wound closure is more important than immediate perfection of the barrier, whereas specific treatment may facilitate perfection. The aim of the current project was therefore to evaluate the quality of restored tissue down to the molecular level. We used Göttingen minipigs with a multi-technique approach correlating wound healing progression in vivo over three weeks, monitored by classical methods (e.g., histology, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH) and subsequent physicochemical characterization of barrier recovery (i.e., small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SWAXD), polarization transfer solid-state NMR (PTssNMR), dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR)), providing a unique insight into molecular aspects of healing. We conclude that although acute wounds sealed within two weeks as expected, molecular investigation of stratum corneum (SC) revealed a poorly developed keratin organization and deviations in lipid lamellae formation. A higher lipid fluidity was also observed in regenerated tissue. This may have been due to incomplete lipid conversion during barrier recovery as glycosphingolipids, normally not present in SC, were indicated by infrared FTIR spectroscopy. Evidently, a molecular approach to skin barrier recovery could be a valuable tool in future development of products targeting wound healing.

Mechanisms of skin moisturization with hyperharmonized hydroxyl modified fullerene substance

BACKGROUND

Hyper Harmonized Hydroxyl Modified Fullerene Substance (3HFWC⁺ ) establishes hydrogen bonds with the surrounding water molecules and organizes them in clusters with the liquid crystalline state, similar to the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules.

AIMS

To investigate the moisturizing properties of hyperharmonized fullerenol-3HFWC⁺ as an emulsion O/W ingredient on the skin.

PATIENTS/METHODS

We have analyzed the reflexion of the blue light from the skin, in vivo, with different levels of moisturization and compared the influence of three groups of cosmetic products (with various active ingredients, 3HFWC⁺ or water in same percentage in the "vehiculum") on skin moisturization by measuring paramagnetic/diamagnetic properties by Optomagnetic Imaging Spectroscopy.

RESULTS

Regenerating Cream and Body Lotion have shown statistically significant increase of diamagnetic features predominantly in all 3 types of creams, while the Hand Cream formulations have not shown statistically significant results after 4 weeks of treatment. Anti-aging cream with 3HFWC⁺ demonstrated statistically significant increase of paramagnetic properties of the skin (p⁺ /p^- from 0.90 to 0.62) and showed beneficial effects on information transfer and water content in stratum corneum.

CONCLUSION

Although it does not act as a classical moisturizing agent on the skin, 3HFWC⁺ can increase moisturization as a result of hydrogen bonds established among 3HFWC⁺ and water or biomolecules, liquid crystalline state of water in 3HFWC⁺ resembling the properties of water surrounding the biomolecules, and finally, liquid crystalline state of water in the products.

Enhancement strategies for transdermal drug delivery systems: current trends and applications

Transdermal drug delivery systems have become an intriguing research topic in pharmaceutical technology area and one of the most frequently developed pharmaceutical products in global market. The use of these systems can overcome associated drawbacks of other delivery routes, such as oral and parenteral. The authors will review current trends, and future applications of transdermal technologies, with specific focus on providing a comprehensive understanding of transdermal drug delivery systems and enhancement strategies. This article will initially discuss each transdermal enhancement method used in the development of first-generation transdermal products. These methods include drug/vehicle interactions, vesicles and particles, stratum corneum modification, energy-driven methods and stratum corneum bypassing techniques. Through suitable design and implementation of active stratum corneum bypassing methods, notably microneedle technology, transdermal delivery systems have been shown to deliver both low and high molecular weight drugs. Microneedle technology platforms have proven themselves to be more versatile than other transdermal systems with opportunities for intradermal delivery of drugs/biotherapeutics and therapeutic drug monitoring. These have shown that microneedles have been a prospective strategy for improving transdermal delivery systems.

Non-invasive skin sampling of tryptophan/kynurenine ratio in vitro towards a skin cancer biomarker

The tryptophan to kynurenine ratio (Trp/Kyn) has been proposed as a cancer biomarker. Non-invasive topical sampling of Trp/Kyn can therefore serve as a promising concept for skin cancer diagnostics. By performing in vitro pig skin permeability studies, we conclude that non-invasive topical sampling of Trp and Kyn is feasible. We explore the influence of different experimental conditions, which are relevant for the clinical in vivo setting, such as pH variations, sampling time, and microbial degradation of Trp and Kyn. The permeabilities of Trp and Kyn are overall similar. However, the permeated Trp/Kyn ratio is generally higher than unity due to endogenous Trp, which should be taken into account to obtain a non-biased Trp/Kyn ratio accurately reflecting systemic concentrations. Additionally, prolonged sampling time is associated with bacterial Trp and Kyn degradation and should be considered in a clinical setting. Finally, the experimental results are supported by the four permeation pathways model, predicting that the hydrophilic Trp and Kyn molecules mainly permeate through lipid defects (i.e., the porous pathway). However, the hydrophobic indole ring of Trp is suggested to result in a small but noticeable relative increase of Trp diffusion via pathways across the SC lipid lamellae, while the shunt pathway is proposed to slightly favor permeation of Kyn relative to Trp.

Biofluidic material-based carriers: Potential systems for crossing cellular barriers

Biofluids act as a repository for disease biomarkers and are excellent diagnostic tools applied in establishing a disease profile based on clinical testing, evaluation and monitoring the progression of patients suffering from various conditions. Furthermore, biofluids and their derived components such proteins, pigments, enzymes, hormones and cells carry a potential in the development of therapeutic drug delivery systems or as cargo materials for targeting the drug to the site of action. The presence of biofluids with respect to their specific location reveals the information of disease progression and mechanism, delivery aspects such as routes of administration as well as pharmacological factors such as binding affinity, rate of kinetics, efficacy, bioavailability and patient compliance. This review focuses on the properties and functional benefits of some biofluids, namely blood, saliva, bile, urine, amniotic fluid, synovial fluid and cerebrospinal fluid. It also covers the therapeutic and targeting action of fluid-derived substances in various micro- or nano-systems like nanohybrids, nanoparticles, self-assembled micelles, microparticles, cell-based systems, etc. The formulation of such biologically-oriented systems demonstrate the advantages of natural origin, biocompatibility and biodegradability and offer new techniques for overcoming the challenges experienced in conventional therapies.

A comparison of Myribase and Doublebase gel: Does qualitative similarity of emollient products imply their direct interchangeability in everyday practice?

Emollients are acknowledged as a part of standard care in therapeutic and prevention protocols as well as a part of everyday skin care routine. When it comes to making a final decision between two emollient products, the ingredient list, that is, the formulation composition could be the determining factor. In such cases the consumer, and some healthcare providers, believe that products with the same qualitative composition (ingredient list) must have the same efficacy. In this study, we have investigated the skin hydration performance of two emollient preparations (DBG and MBG), which appear to contain the same ingredients, and hence, could be considered interchangeable in everyday practice. Our studies showed that the effects of DBG were overall superior to the ones attributed to MBG at each investigated time point (1, 2, 4, and 24 h post application) when tested on normal and dry skin. Consequently, it is shown that two apparently qualitatively identical products do not necessarily provide matching efficacy.

In vivo evaluation of the toxicity, genotoxicity, histopathological, and anti-inflammatory effects of the purified bioglycerol byproduct in biodiesel industry

BACKGROUND

Biodiesel has gained an increased popularity as a good alternative for fossil fuel because of its unusual qualities as a biodegradable, nontoxic, and renewable diesel fuel. Hence, the economic utilization of the accumulated bioglycerol byproduct became critically important for the sustainability of biodiesel industry. The purified bioglycerol might be used as a valuable industrial stock in cosmetic, medical, and food industries. However, if the purified product is going to be used in food, drug, or any industry that involves its ingestion or skin contact by human or animals, the product should be thoroughly tested on animal models.

RESULTS

The present study investigated the acute toxicity, anti-inflammatory, histopathological, and genotoxic effects of zeolite-purified biogylcerol on different animal models. All the previous tests proved the ability of the purification process to improve the qualities of the crude bioglycerol to a degree comparable to the pharmaceutical grade glycerol.

CONCLUSION

In other words, it could be concluded that zeolite-purified bioglycerol can be used in different industries that involves products consumed by human or animals.

Innovative strategies to treat skin wounds with mangiferin: fabrication of transfersomes modified with glycols and mucin

Aim: The moisturizing properties of glycerol, the penetration enhancing capability of propylene glycol and the bioadhesive properties of mucin were combined to improve the carrier capabilities of transfersomes and the efficacy of mangiferin in the treatment of skin lesions. Materials & methods: Mangiferin was incorporated in transfersomes and glycoltransfersomes, which were also modified with mucin. The physico-chemical features were assessed, along with the efficacy against oxidative stress and skin wounds in vitro and in vivo. Results: Glycoltransfersomes promoted the deposition of mangiferin in epidermis and dermis, protected fibroblasts from oxidative stress and stimulated their proliferation. The wound healing and anti-inflammatory efficacy of glycoltransfersomes were confirmed in vivo. Conclusion: Results confirmed the potential of glycoltransfersomes in preventing/treating of skin lesions.

Topical Drug Delivery Systems Based on Bacterial Nanocellulose: Accelerated Stability Testing

Bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) membranes have enormous potential as systems for topical drug delivery due to their intrinsic biocompatibility and three-dimensional nanoporous structure, which can house all kinds of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). Thus, the present study investigated the long-term storage stability of BNC membranes loaded with both hydrophilic and lipophilic APIs, namely, caffeine, lidocaine, ibuprofen and diclofenac. The storage stability was evaluated under accelerated testing conditions at different temperatures and relative humidity (RH), i.e., 75% RH/40 °C, 60% RH/25 °C and 0% RH/40 °C. All systems were quite stable under these storage conditions with no significant structural and morphological changes or variations in the drug release profile. The only difference observed was in the moisture-uptake, which increased with RH due to the hydrophilic nature of BNC. Furthermore, the caffeine-loaded BNC membrane was selected for in vivo cutaneous compatibility studies, where patches were applied in the volar forearm of twenty volunteers for 24 h. The cutaneous responses were assessed by non-invasive measurements and the tests revealed good compatibility for caffeine-loaded BNC membranes. These results highlight the good storage stability of the API-loaded BNC membranes and their cutaneous compatibility, which confirms the real potential of these dermal delivery systems.

Study of the Mechanism Underlying the Onset of Diabetic Xeroderma Focusing on an Aquaporin-3 in a Streptozotocin-Induced Diabetic Mouse Model

Xeroderma is a frequent complication in diabetic patients. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying the onset of diabetic xeroderma, focusing on aquaporin-3 (AQP3), which plays an important role in water transport in the skin. Dermal water content in diabetic mice was significantly lower than that in control mice. The expression level of AQP3 in the skin was significantly lower in diabetic mice than in control mice. One week after streptozotocin (STZ) treatment, despite their increased blood glucose levels, mice showed no changes in the expression levels of AQP3, Bmal1, Clock, and D site-binding protein (Dbp) in the skin and 8-hydroxydeoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) in the urine. In contrast, two weeks after STZ treatment, mice showed increases in the blood glucose level, decreases in AQP3, Bmal1, Clock, and Dbp levels, and increases in the urinary levels of 8-OHdG. The results of this study suggest that skin AQP3 expression decreases in diabetes, which may limit water transport from the vessel side to the corneum side, causing dry skin. In addition, in diabetic mice, increased oxidative stress triggered decreases in the expression levels of Bmal1 and Clock in the skin, thereby inhibiting the transcription of Aqp3 by Dbp, which resulted in decreased AQP3 expression.

Effects of Temperature and Humidity on the Skin Permeation of Hydrophilic and Hydrophobic Drugs

The humidity was a well-known method to hydrate the skin; however, the published data were varied, and systemic experiments in the previous papers were few. Therefore, the in vitro permeation of excised porcine ear skin by drugs with different polarities [aminopyrine (AMP), antipyrine (ANP), methylparaben (MP), and ibuprofen (IP)] was analyzed under a constant skin surface temperature with different temperatures and humidities to reveal the effects of temperature and humidity on the skin permeation enhancement effects. Applied formulations were prepared by mixing the drug and a hydrophilic vehicle containing glycerin. The disposition-distance profiles of water and the humectant glycerin in the stratum corneum were also investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. High absolute humidity (AH) significantly contributed to the high skin penetration of the hydrophilic penetrants AMP, ANP, and MP but not the hydrophobic penetrant IP. An increase in the partition parameter and a decrease in the diffusivity parameter occurred with an increase in AH, independent of drug polarity. Moreover, we found that dew condensation induced by high AH on temperature-controlled skin surface may effectively increase water content and may provide higher glycerin distribution in the skin barrier, the stratum corneum. Increasing the amount of water and hydrophilic vehicles such as glycerin in the stratum corneum may enhance the permeation of hydrophilic penetrants AMP, ANP, and MP. These data suggested a dew condensation on the skin surface induced by high AH at a constant skin surface temperature would be important to enhance hydrophilic penetrants.

Cytotoxicity profiling of deep eutectic solvents to human skin cells

The tailor-made character of deep eutectic solvents (DES) turns them very attractive to be used in several applications, including in health-related areas such as pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic industries. However, although DES has been touted as “green” solvents, several works proved that their potential toxicity should not be neglected. Using the premise of DES applicability in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors, we chose two cell lines to work as a skin model (keratinocytes HaCaT and tumor melanocytes MNT-1), to assess DES cytotoxicity. The effect of three different hydrogen bond acceptors (HBA) ([Chol]Cl, [N₁₁₁₁]Cl and [N₄₄₄₄]Cl) and three different hydrogen bond donors (HBD) (hexanoic and butanoic acid, ethylene glycol, 1-propanol and urea) were evaluated through a common viability assay (MTT assay). Results were promising since [Chol]Cl and [N₁₁₁₁]Cl- based DES showed good biocompatibility for the tested cells. [N₄₄₄₄]Cl-based DES, however, showed cytotoxicity for both cell lines, with the HBA being the driver of the toxicity. Interestingly, some compounds increased cell viability in the HaCaT cell line, namely [Chol]Cl, ethylene glycol, hexanoic acid, urea, and all [Chol]Cl and [N₁₁₁₁]Cl-based DES and should be considered as targets for future studies. These results highlight their possible use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations.

Blue Light Induces Down-Regulation of Aquaporin 1, 3, and 9 in Human Keratinocytes

The development in digital screen technology has exponentially increased in the last decades, and many of today's electronic devices use light-emitting diode (LED) technology producing very strong blue light (BL) waves. Long-term exposure at LED-BL seems to have an implication in the dehydration of the epidermis, in the alterations of shape and number of the keratinocytes, and in the aging of the skin. Aquaporins (AQPs) are water membrane channels that permeate both water and glycerol and play an important role in the hydration of epidermis, as well as in proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes. Thus, we have hypothesized that AQPs could be involved in the aging of the skin exposed to LED-BL. Therefore, we have examined the expression of AQPs in human keratinocytes exposed to LED-BL at dose of 45 J/cm², used as an in vitro model to produce the general features of photo aging of the skin. The aim was to verify if LED-BL induces changes of the basal levels of AQPs. The keratinocytes exposure to LED-BL produced an increase of reactive oxygen species (ROS), an activation of 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG), an alteration of proliferating cell nuclear antigen (PCNA), and a down-regulation of AQP1, 3 and 9. These findings are preliminary evidences that may be used as starting points for further investigations about the mechanistic involvement of AQP1, 3, and 9 in LED-BL-induced skin aging.

Novel anti-inflammatory film as a delivery system for the external medication with bioactive phytochemical "Apocynin"

PURPOSE

Recently, Apocynin (APO) has emerged as a bioactive phytochemical with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. No reports have been published so far concerning its topical application as a pharmaceutical dosage form for prospective use. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to fabricate novel anti-inflammatory film for external medication with APO.

METHODS

APO film was prepared using casein (CAS) as a natural protein film former by solvent casting technique. The medicated film was extensively evaluated in terms of its various physicochemical characteristics, ex vivo skin permeation profile, stability, and finally in vivo anti-inflammatory activity on carrageenan-induced rat paw edema.

RESULTS

The film represented satisfactory mechanical properties along with good flexibility. Fourier transform-infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry, and X-ray diffractometry revealed possible solubility of APO in the amorphous CAS and inter- and intramolecular hydrogen bonding between the film components. The ex vivo skin permeation results of the medicated film demonstrated non-Fickian diffusion mechanism of the permeated drug. Application of APO film to rat paw before carrageenan-induced paw edema or after induction disclosed eminent anti-inflammatory activity expressed by marked decrease in paw swelling (%) and increase in edema inhibition rate (%). In addition, histopathologic examination revealed a significant decrease in inflammatory scores. The immunohistochemical expression levels of both nuclear factor kappa B and cyclooxygenase-2 were significantly suppressed.

CONCLUSION

These results indicated that CAS film could be applied as a promising external delivery system for the anti-inflammatory APO.

Fluorouracil-Loaded Gold Nanoparticles for the Treatment of Skin Cancer: Development, in Vitro Characterization, and in Vivo Evaluation in a Mouse Skin Cancer Xenograft Model

Fluorouracil (5-FU) is an antimetabolite drug used in the treatment of various malignancies, such as colon and skin cancers. However, its systemic administration results in severe side effects. Topical 5-FU delivery for the treatment of skin cancer could circumvent these shortcomings, but it is limited by the drug poor permeability through the skin. To enhance 5-FU efficacy against skin cancer and reduce its systemic side effects, it was loaded into a gold nanoparticle (GNP)-based topical delivery system. 5-FU was loaded onto GNPs capped with CTAB through ionic interactions between 5-FU and CTAB. GNPs were prepared at different 5-FU/CTAB molar ratios and evaluated using different techniques. GNP stability and drug release were studied as a function of salt concentration and solution pH. Optimum 5-FU/CTAB-GNPs were incorporated into gel and cream bases, and their ex vivo permeability was evaluated in mice dorsal skin. The in vivo anticancer efficacy of the same preparations was evaluated in A431 tumor-bearing mice. The GNPs had spherical shape and a size of ∼16-150 nm. Maximum 5-FU entrapment was achieved at 5-FU/CTAB molar ratio of 1:1 and pH 11.5. Drug release from GNPs was sustained and pH-dependent. 5-FU GNP gel and cream had around 2-fold higher permeability through mice skin compared with free 5-FU gel and cream formulations. Further, in vivo studies in a mouse model having A431 skin cancer cells implanted in the subcutaneous space showed that the GNP gel and cream achieved 6.8- and 18.4-fold lower tumor volume compared with the untreated control, respectively. These results confirm the potential of topical 5-FU/CTAB-GNPs to enhance drug efficacy against skin cancer.

Evaluation of the molecular lipid organization in millimeter-sized stratum corneum by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

BACKGROUND

The aim of this study was to investigate whether the lamellar and lateral structure of intercellular lipid of stratum corneum (SC) can be evaluated from millimeter-sized SC (MSC) by X-ray diffraction.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A 12 mm × 12 mm SC sheet from hairless mouse was divided into 16 pieces measuring 3 mm × 3 mm square. From another sheet, 4 pieces of ultramillimeter-sized SC (USC:1.5 mm × 1.5 mm square) were prepared. Small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SAXD and WAXD) measurements were performed on each piece. For MSC and USC, changes in the lamellar and lateral structure after the application of d-limonene were measured.

RESULTS

The intensity of SAXD peaks due to the lamellar phase of long periodicity phase (LPP) and WAXD peaks due to the lateral hydrocarbon chain-packing structures varied in MSC and USC pieces, although over the 12 mm × 12 mm SC sheet. These results indicated that the intercellular lipid components and their proportion appeared nearly uniform. Application of d-limonene on MSC and USC piece with strong peaks in SAXD and the WAXD resulted in the disappearance of peaks due to the lamellar phase of LPP and decrease in peak intensity for the lateral hydrocarbon chain-packing structures. These changes are consistent with normal-sized sample results.

CONCLUSION

We found that the selection of a sample piece with strong diffraction peaks due to the lamellar and lateral structure enabled evaluation of the SC structure in small-sized samples by X-ray diffraction.

Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial cheeks with different hydration levels

Basic cosmetics was used by volunteers belonging to high (HHG) and low (LHG) hydration groups for 4 weeks, and bacterial communities and biophysical parameters in facial skin were analyzed. Hydration level increases and transepidermal water loss and roughness decreases were observed in both groups after cosmetic use. Bacterial diversity was greater in LHG than HHG, and increased after cosmetic use in both groups. Bray–Curtis dissimilarities that were higher in LHG than HHG increased in HHG after cosmetic use, whereas they decreased in LHG. The phyla Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria, Firmicutes, and Bacteroidetes and the genera Propionibacterium, Ralstonia, Burkholderia, Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, Cupriavidus, and Pelomonas were identified as common groups and they were not significantly different between LHG and HHG except for Propionibacterium that was more abundant in HHG. After cosmetic use, Propionibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Corynebacterium decreased, whereas Ralstonia, not a core genus, increased, as did KEGG categories of lipid metabolism and xenobiotics biodegradation and metabolism, suggesting that Ralstonia in skin may have the ability to metabolize cosmetics components. Bacterial communities after cosmetic use were different from those in both LHG and HHG before the cosmetic use, indicating that bacterial communities in LHG were not shifted to resemble those in HHG by cosmetics use.