Octaphlorethol A isolated from Ishige foliacea inhibits α-MSH-stimulated induced melanogenesis via ERK pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells

Co-Treatment with Phlorotannin and Extracellular Vesicles from Ecklonia cava Inhibits UV-Induced Melanogenesis

Hyperpigmentation due to ultraviolet (UV)-induced melanogenesis causes various esthetic problems. Phlorotannin (PT) and extracellular vesicles (EVs) derived from various plants suppress melanogenesis pathways. We used UV-exposed keratinocytes and animal skin to determine if co-treatment with PT and EVs from Ecklonia cava (EVE) could inhibit melanogenesis by reducing UV-induced oxidative stress and the expression of the thioredoxin-interacting protein (TXNIP)/nucleotide-binding oligomerization domain-like receptor family pyrin domain containing the 3 (NLRP3)/interleukin-18 (IL-18) pathway, which are upstream signals of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. UV exposure increased oxidative stress in keratinocytes and animal skin, as evaluated by 8-OHdG expression, and this effect was reduced by co-treatment with PT and EVE. UV also increased binding between NLRP3 and TXNIP, which increased NLRP3 inflammasome activation and IL-18 secretion, and this effect was reduced by co-treatment with PT and EVE in keratinocytes and animal skin. In melanocytes, conditioned media (CM) from UV-exposed keratinocytes increased the expression of melanogenesis-related pathways; however, these effects were reduced with CM from UV-exposed keratinocytes treated with PT and EVE. Similarly, PT and EVE treatment reduced melanogenesis-related signals, melanin content, and increased basement membrane (BM) components in UV-exposed animal skin. Thus, co-treatment with PT and EVE reduced melanogenesis and restored the BM structure by reducing oxidative stress and TXNIP/NLRP3/IL-18 pathway expression.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Inhibitory Effects of Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and Lobophora challengeriae on Tyrosinase Activity and α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Melanogenesis involves a synthesis of melanin pigment and is regulated by tyrosinase. The addition of whitening agents with tyrosinase-inhibiting properties in cosmetics is becoming increasingly important. In this study, the ethanolic extracts from twelve seaweeds were assessed for tyrosinase-inhibiting activity using mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The highest mushroom tyrosinase inhibition (IC50) was observed with Lobophora challengeriae (0.15 ± 0.01 mg mL−1); treatment was more effective than kojic acid (IC50 = 0.35 ± 0.05 mg mL−1), a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Three seaweeds, Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and L. challengeriae, were further investigated for their ability to reduce melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. The ethanolic extracts of C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae showed inhibitory effects by reducing melanin and intracellular tyrosinase levels in B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone in a dose-dependent manner. C. racemosa (33.71%) and L. challengeriae (36.14%) at 25 µg mL−1 reduced melanin production comparable to that of kojic acid (36.18%). L. challengeriae showed a stronger inhibition of intracellular tyrosinase (decreased from 165.23% to 46.30%) than kojic acid (to 72.50%). Thus, ethanolic extracts from C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae can be good sources of natural tyrosinase inhibitors and therapeutic or cosmetic agents in the future.

Global seaweed farming and processing in the past 20 years

Seaweed has emerged as one of the most promising resources due to its remarkable adaptability, short development period, and resource sustainability. It is an effective breakthrough to alleviate future resource crises. Algal resources have reached a high stage of growth in the past years due to the increased output and demand for seaweed worldwide. Several aspects global seaweed farming production and processing over the last 20 years are reviewed, such as the latest situation and approaches of seaweed farming. Research progress and production trend of various seaweed application are discussed. Besides, the challenges faced by seaweed farming and processing are also analyzed, and the related countermeasures are proposed, which can provide advice for seaweed farming and processing. The primary products, extraction and application, or waste utilization of seaweed would bring greater benefits with the continuous development and improvement of applications in various fields.

Graphical Abstract

The Modulation of Melanogenesis in B16 Cells Upon Treatment with Plant Extracts and Isolated Plant Compounds

Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites that exhibit numerous desired properties. The compounds may influence the biology of melanocytes, pigment cells that produce melanin, by modulating numerous signaling pathways, including cAMP/PKA, MAPKs and PI3K/AKT. Its downstream target is microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, responsible for the expression of the tyrosinase enzyme, which plays a major role in melanogenesis. Therefore, this literature review aims to provide insights related to melanogenesis modulation mechanisms of plant extracts and isolated plant compounds in B16 cells. Database searches were conducted using online-based library search instruments from 2012 to 2022, such as NCBI-PubMed and Google Scholar. Upregulation or downregulation of signaling pathways by phytochemicals can influence skin hypo- and hyperpigmentation by changing the level of melanin production, which may pose a significant cosmetic issue. Therefore, plant extracts or isolated plant compounds may be used in the therapy of pigmentation disorders.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

Anti-Pigmentary Natural Compounds and Their Mode of Action

Hyper-activated melanocytes are the major cause of skin hyper-pigmentary disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Increasing efforts have been made to search for materials with depigmenting activity to develop functional cosmetics. As a result, numerous materials have been reported to have depigmenting activity but some of them are known to cause unwanted side effects. Consequently, anti-pigmentary natural compounds without concern of toxicity are in great demand. Virtually all sorts of natural sources have been investigated to find anti-pigmentary natural compounds. This review summarizes recently reported anti-pigmentary natural compounds and their mode of action from the ocean, plants, and bacteria.

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol inhibits melanogenesis via protein kinase A/cAMP response element-binding protein and extracellular signal-regulated kinase-mediated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor downregulation in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (DPHC) is a marine polyphenolic compound derived from brown alga Ishige okamurae. A previously study has suggested that DPHC possesses strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. However, the anti-melanogenesis effect of DPHC has not been reported at cellular level. The objective of the present study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effect of DPHC and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and zebrafish model. DPHC significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content dose-dependently in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. This polyphenolic compound also suppressed the expression of phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) by attenuating phosphorylation of cAMP-dependent protein kinase A, resulting in decreased MITF expression levels. Furthermore, DPHC downregulated MITF protein expression levels by promoting the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase. It also inhibited tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH stimulated B16F10 cells. In in vivo studies using zebrafish, DPHC also markedly inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. These results demonstrate that DPHC can effectively inhibit melanogenesis in melanoma cells in vitro and in zebrafish in vivo, suggesting that DPHC could be applied in fields of pharmaceutical and cosmeceuticals as a skin-whitening agent. Significance of study: The present study showed for the first time that DPHC could inhibit a-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis via PKA/CREB and ERK pathway in melanoma cells. It also could inhibit pigmentation in vivo in a zebrafish model. This evidence suggests that DPHC has potential as a skin whitening agent. Taken together, DPHC could be considered as a novel anti-melanogenic agent to be applied in cosmetic, food, and medical industry.

Protocatechuic Aldehyde Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via PKA/CREB-Associated MITF Downregulation

Protocatechuic aldehyde (PA) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is a potent inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase. However, the molecular mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis activity of PA have not yet been reported. The aim of the current study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of PA and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10). We first predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a molecular docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and PA. These molecular modeling studies calculated a binding energy of -527.42 kcal/mol and indicated that PA interacts with Cu400 and 401, Val283, and His263. Furthermore, PA significantly decreased α-MSH-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. PA also inhibited key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, PA decreased MITF expression levels by inhibiting phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA). These results demonstrate that PA can effectively suppress melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Taken together, our results show that PA could serve as a potential inhibitor of melanogenesis, and hence could be explored as a possible skin-lightening agent.

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Melanogenesis Effects of Fucoidan Isolated from Hizikia fusiforme and Its Underlying Mechanisms

Previous studies suggested that fucoidan with a molecular weight of 102.67 kDa, isolated from Hizikia fusiforme, possesses strong antioxidant activity. To explore the cosmeceutical potential of fucoidan, its anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis effects were evaluated in the present study. The anti-photoaging effect was investigated in ultraviolet (UV) B-irradiated human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), where fucoidan effectively reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species level and improved the viability of the UVB-irradiated cells without any cytotoxic effects. Moreover, fucoidan significantly decreased UVB-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by regulating the protein expression of Bax, Bcl-xL, PARP, and Caspase-3 in HaCaT cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The anti-melanogenesis effect of fucoidan was evaluated in B16F10 melanoma cells that had been stimulated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), and fucoidan treatment remarkably inhibited melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Further studies indicated that fucoidan significantly suppressed the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and-2) in B16F10 cells by down-regulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) through regulation of the ERK–MAPK (extracellular signal regulated kinase-mitogen activated protein kinase) pathway. Taken together, these results suggest that fucoidan isolated from H. fusiforme possesses strong anti-photoaging and anti-melanogenesis activities and can be used as an ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

The Potential of Sulfated Polysaccharides Isolated from the Brown Seaweed Ecklonia maxima in Cosmetics: Antioxidant, Anti-melanogenesis, and Photoprotective Activities

Sulfated polysaccharides prepared from marine algae are potential ingredients in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical industries. In the present study, the antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and photoprotective effects of sulfated polysaccharides obtained from Ecklonia maxima (EMC) were investigated to evaluate their potential in cosmetic. EMC was successfully prepared through Celluclast-assisted extraction and ethanol precipitation, and it contained 79.88% of sulfated polysaccharides that with 69.37% carbohydrates and 10.51% sulfate. EMC effectively suppressed 2,2-azobis(2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride (AAPH)-induced oxidative stress in vitro in Vero cells and in vivo in zebrafish. Furthermore, EMC significantly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and reduced melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, EMC remarkably attenuated photodamage induced by UVB irradiation in vitro in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and in vivo in zebrafish. Furthermore, EMC effectively inhibited wrinkle-related enzymes and improved collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDF cells). These results indicate that EMC possesses strong antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and photoprotective activities, and suggest that EMC may be an ideal ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis activities of sulfated polysaccharides isolated from Hizikia fusiforme: Short communication

Antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects of sulfated polysaccharides from Celluclast-assisted extract of Hizikia fusiforme (HFPS) make it a good candidate for exploring its cosmeceutical potential. In order to further explore this premise, the anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis effects of HFPS were studied in the present study. HFPS significantly inhibited nitric oxide (NO) generation and improved the cell viability in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages. It also decreased the expression of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and pro-inflammatory cytokines, and suppressed the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) in LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. In addition, HFPS also inhibited melanin synthesis in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells by down-regulating of intracellular levels of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and -2) via inhibiting microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression. These results demonstrate that HFPS possesses strong in vitro anti-inflammatory and anti-melanogenesis effects and can be used in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Vanillic acid in Panax ginseng root extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 cells via inhibition of the NO/PKG signaling pathway

Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been widely used in skin care. Our previous study showed that the phenolic acids in ginseng root extract (GRE) impart inhibitory effects on melanogenesis. In this study, we found that as the most abundant component of phenolic acids in GRE, vanillic acid decreased tyrosinase activity and melanin levels with or without α-MSH stimulation and suppressed the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and melanogenic enzymes in B16F10 cells. Furthermore, vanillic acid downregulated NOS activity, nitric oxide (NO) content, cGMP level, guanylate cyclase (GC) and protein kinase G (PKG) activity, and the phosphorylation of cAMP-response element-binding protein (CREB), whereas arbutin had no effect on the NO/PKG pathway. These findings indicate that vanillic acid in GRE suppressed melanogenesis by inhibiting the NO/PKG signaling pathways. This study provides a potential mechanism underlying the inhibitory effect of ginseng on melanogenesis.

Effect of polysaccharide FMP-1 from Morchella esculenta on melanogenesis in B16F10 cells and zebrafish

Polysaccharides from Morchella esculenta are known to exhibit diverse bioactivities, while an anti-melanogenesis effect has been barely addressed. Herein, the anti-melanogenesis activity of a heteropolysaccharide from M. esculenta (FMP-1) was investigated in vitro and in vivo. FMP-1 had no significant cytotoxic effect on B16F10 melanoma cells as well as zebrafish larvae, but did reduce melanin contents and tyrosinase activities in both of them. Treatment with FMP-1 also effectively suppressed the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, including MC1R, MITF, TRP-1 and TRP-2, through decreasing the phosphorylation of cyclic adenosine monophosphate response element-binding protein (CREB). Moreover, the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway was observed mediating FMP-1's inhibitory effect against melanin production. Specifically, FMP-1 treatment markedly inhibited the activation of phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase. These results suggested that FMP-1's inhibitory effect against melanogenesis is mediated by the inhibition of CREB and p38 signaling pathways, thereby resulting in the downstream repression of melanogenesis-related proteins and the subsequent melanin production. These data provide insight into FMP-1's potential anti-melanogenesis effect in food and cosmetic industries.

Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy

Riverine, estuarine, and coastal populations have always used algae in the development of home remedies that were then used to treat diverse health problems. The empirical knowledge of various generations originated these applications, and their mechanism of action is, in most cases, unknown, that is, few more scientific studies would have been described beyond simple collection and ethnographic recording. Nevertheless, recent investigations, carried out with the purpose of analyzing the components and causes that alter the functioning and the balance of our organism, are already giving their first results. Water, and especially sea water is considered as essential to life on our planet. It sings all the substances necessary and conducive to the development of the living being (minerals, catalysts, vitamins, amino acids, etc.). Oceans cover over 70% of Earth, being home to up to 90% of the organisms in the planet. Many rich resources and unique environments are provided by the ocean. Additionally, bioactive compounds that multiple marine organisms have a great potential to produce can be used as nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Both primary and secondary metabolites are produced by algae. The first ones are directly implicated in development, normal growth, or reproduction conditions to perform physiological functions. Stress conditions, like temperature changes, salinity, environmental pollutants, or UV radiation exposure cause the performance of secondary metabolites. In algae, proteins, polysaccharides, fatty acids, and amino acids are primary metabolites and phenolic compounds, pigments, vitamins, sterols, and other bioactive agents, all produced in algae tissues, are secondary metabolites. These algal active constituents have direct relevance in cosmetics.

De Novo Molecular Design of a Novel Octapeptide That Inhibits In Vivo Melanogenesis and Has Great Transdermal Ability

Cutaneous hyperpigmentation from excess melanogenesis causes serious pigmentary disorders and even melasma. Short peptides (SPs) are garnering attention lately owing to their therapeutic potential in dermatological diseases and low systemic side effects. Here, we show an octapeptide, ansin2, designed de novo from antioxidant SPs we previously reported, significantly inhibiting melanogenesis in B16 cells by decreasing tyrosinase production via regulating the MITF pathway. Ansin2 could also inhibit tyrosinase function by covering its catalytic pocket, which was simulated in docking and LIGPLOT studies. Topical application of ansin2 exhibited evident protection in UVB-induced pigmentation in guinea pig models both in terms of prophylaxis and treatment. Interestingly, unlike other hydrophilic and peptidic drugs that need delivery systems, ansin2 can be efficiently delivered topically to the epidermis and dermis per se without an affiliated moiety. Given that ansin2 lacks unwanted toxicities and immunogenicity, it holds great potential in treating hyperpigmentation in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

Effects of volatile oil from ginger on the murine B16 melanoma cells and its mechanism

In this study, the inhibitory effects of volatile oil from ginger on melanogenesis and its antioxidant characteristics were investigated. The effects of volatile oil from ginger on cell proliferation, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were determined using a microplate reader. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related protein was determined by western blotting. The results indicate that the tested concentrates of volatile oil from ginger showed inhibitory effects on cell proliferation and melanogenesis. This revealed that volatile oil from ginger exhibited apparent capacities for scavenging ROS and lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, volatile oil from ginger improved the activities of GSH, SOD and CAT in B16 melanoma cells. These results demonstrated that volatile oil from ginger suppressed melanin synthesis through its antioxidant properties and the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanogensis-related proteins. Hence, volatile oil from ginger could be used as an effective skin-whitening agent applied in food industry.

Hypopigmenting Effects of Brown Algae-Derived Phytochemicals: A Review on Molecular Mechanisms

There is a rapid increase in the demand for natural hypopigmenting agents from marine sources for cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications. Currently, marine macroalgae are considered as a safe and effective source of diverse bioactive compounds. Many research groups are exploring marine macroalgae to discover and characterize novel compounds for cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical applications. Many types of bioactive secondary metabolites from marine algae, including phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides, carotenoids, and meroterpenoids, have already been documented for their potential applications in the pharmaceutical industry. Among these metabolites, phlorotannins from brown algae have been widely screened for their pharmaceutical and hypopigmenting effects. Unfortunately, the majority of these articles did not have detailed investigations on molecular targets, which is critical to fulfilling the criteria for their cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical use. Very recently, a few meroterpenoids have been discovered from Sargassum sp., with the examination of their anti-melanogenic properties and mechanisms. Despite the scarcity of in vivo and clinical investigations of molecular mechanistic events of marine algae-derived hypopigmenting agents, identifying the therapeutic targets and their validation in humans has been a major challenge for future studies. In this review, we focused on available data representing molecular mechanisms underlying hypopigmenting properties of potential marine brown alga-derived compounds.

Ethyl acetate extract from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer and its main constituents inhibit α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis by suppressing oxidative stress in B16 mouse melanoma cells

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Hyperpigmentation disease involves darkening of the skin color due to melanin overproduction. Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer is a well-known traditional Chinese medicine and has a long history of use as a skin lightener to inhibit melanin formation in China, Korea and some other Asian countries. However, the constituents and the molecular mechanisms by which they affect melanogenesis are not fully clear.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The purpose of this study was to identify the active ingredient in Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer extract that inhibits mushroom tyrosinase activity and to investigate the antioxidative capacity and molecular mechanisms of the effective extract on melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Aqueous extracts of Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer were successively fractionated with an equal volume of chloroform, ethyl acetate, and n-butyl alcohol to determine the effects by examining the activity of mushroom tyrosinase. The effective fraction was analyzed using HPLC and LC-MS. The antioxidative capacity and the inhibitory effects on melanin content, cell intracellular tyrosinase activity, and melanogenesis protein levels were determined in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-treated B16 mouse melanoma cells.

RESULTS

The ethyl acetate extract from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PG-2) had the highest inhibiting effect on mushroom tyrosinase, mainly contained phenolic acids, including protocatechuic acid, vanillic acid, p-coumaric acid, salicylic acid, and caffeic acid, and exhibited apparent antioxidant activity in vitro. PG-2 and its main constituents significantly decreased melanin content, suppressed cellular tyrosinase activity, and reduced expression of tyrosinase protein to inhibit B16 cells melanogenesis induced by α-MSH, and no cytotoxic effects were observed. They also inhibited cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, increased superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity and glutathione (GSH) level in α-MSH-treated B16 cells effectively. And those activities of its main constituents could reach more than 80% of PG-2. The ROS scavengers N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC) had a similar inhibitory effect on melanogenesis.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that ethyl acetate extract from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer has the highest effect on inhibiting melanogenesis, and that its main components are polyphenolic compounds, which may inhibit melanogenesis by suppressing oxidative stress. This work provides new insight into the active constituents and molecular mechanisms underlying skin-lightening effect of Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer.

Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review

Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.

Cellular Anti-Melanogenic Effects of a Euryale ferox Seed Extract Ethyl Acetate Fraction via the Lysosomal Degradation Machinery

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of ethyl acetate fraction of Euryale ferox seed extracts (Efse-EA) on melanogenesis in immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, melan-a. Efse-EA showed strong dose-dependent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Treatment of melan-a cells with 30 μg/mL Efse-EA produced strong inhibition of cellular tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Efse-EA significantly reduced the levels of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related proteins 1 and 2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Because Efse-EA treatment reduced tyrosinase protein levels without changing its mRNA expression, we investigated whether this decrease was related to proteasomal or lysosomal degradation of tyrosinase. We found that chloroquine, a lysosomal proteolysis inhibitor, almost completely abolished both the down-regulation of tyrosinase and the inhibition of melanin synthesis induced by Efse-EA. These results suggested that Efse-EA may contribute to the inhibition of melanogenesis by altering lysosomal degradation of tyrosinase, and that this extract may provide a new cosmetic skin-whitening agent.

Octaphlorethol A isolated from Ishige foliacea prevents and protects against high glucose-induced oxidative damage in vitro and in vivo

We investigated the protective effect of octaphlorethol A (OPA) isolated from Ishige foliacea against high-glucose-induced oxidative damage, as indicated by reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, lipid peroxidation, and cell death, in human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs) and in a zebrafish model. OPA treatment significantly and dose-dependently decreased ROS generation, lipid peroxidation, and cell death in HUVECs and in a zebrafish model. Our results show that OPA can protect HUVECs and zebrafish against high glucose by suppressing intracellular ROS generation, lipid peroxidation, and cell death.

The melanogenesis alteration effects of Achillea millefolium L. essential oil and linalyl acetate: involvement of oxidative stress and the JNK and ERK signaling pathways in melanoma cells

The mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) family, including extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)1/2, c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK)1/2 and p38 MAPK, is known to be activated by ultraviolet (UV) radiation in melanocytes to regulate melanin production. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) play important roles in the pathway of ERK and JNK activation. It has been established that the essential oil of Achillea millefolium L. (AM-EO) has activities that suppress the oxidative stress and inflammatory responses. Thus, we analyzed the effects of AM-EO on melanogenesis in melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) treated melanoma cells. The results demonstrated that AM-EO suppresses melanin production by decreasing tyrosinase activity through the regulation of the JNK and ERK signaling pathways. This effect might be associated with the AM-EO activity leading to the suppression of ROS, and linalyl acetate is its major functional component. Therefore, we propose that AM-EO has the potential to treat hyperpigmentation in the future.

Extracts of Artocarpus communis decrease α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis through activation of ERK and JNK signaling pathways

Artocarpus communis is an agricultural plant that is also used in folk medicine to prevent skin diseases, including acne and dermatitis. Extracts of A. communis have been used to effectively inhibit melanogenesis; however, the antimelanogenesis mechanism of these extracts has not yet been investigated. The present study utilized a cell-free tyrosinase assay as well as α-melanocyte stimulating hormone- (-MSH-) induced tyrosinase assay conducted in B16F10 cells, performed a cytotoxicity assay, and determined cellular melanin content to examine the effects of a methanolic extract of A. communis (ACM) and various organic partition fractions of A. communis on melanogenesis. In addition, we performed western blot analysis to elucidate the mechanism of their antimelanogenesis effect. Our results indicated that, except for the n-hexane extract, ACM and the various partition extracts at noncytotoxic concentrations effectively decreased melanin content and tyrosinase activity by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and phosphorylated cAMP response element-binding protein (p-CREB). Moreover, ACM and the partition fractions activated phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) to inhibit the synthesis of MITF and finally to decrease melanin production. In conclusion, we suggest that noncytotoxic concentrations of ACM and the various partition fractions may be useful as references for developing skin-lighting agents for use in medicines or cosmetics.