Application of traditional Chinese medicine as skin depigmentation agents

Margarita (Pearl) Extract Alleviates Melasma by Targeting CAMP-Responsive Element Binding Protein 1

PURPOSE

Margarita (pearl) has detoxifying and skin barrier-repairing properties. The study was to evaluate the therapeutic effect of pearl on melasma and to preliminarily explore its possible mechanism of action.

METHODS

The efficacy of pearl on patients with melasma was evaluated by the melasma area and severity index (MASI) and physician's global assessment (PGA) score. DNA sequencing was performed on pharyngeal swab samples from patients with melasma to obtain gene loci related to melasma. The active compounds and potential targets for pearl were retrieved from Integrated Traditional Chinese Medicine and HERB databases. The relevant genes of melasma were obtained from the GeneCards database and intersected with the targets of pearl to identify potential targets of pearl against melasma. The potential targets were mapped for the KEGG pathway in the KEGG Mapper and verified using human melanoma A375 cells that were exposed to ultraviolet irradiation.

RESULTS

Pearl significantly improved the MASI and PGA scores of patients with melasma. DNA sequencing revealed that TYR and DCT were genes related to melasma. Calcium carbonate, iron, magnesium, manganese, silicon, strontium, and zinc were active compounds for pearl. CAMP-responsive element binding protein 1 (CREB1) was the target of pearl against melasma. Pearl regulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factors through CREB and affected melasma-related genes TYR and DCT, which in turn inhibit melanoma cell activity and intracellular tyrosinase activity.

CONCLUSION

Pearl can alleviate melasma by targeting the CREB1/MITF axis and then the melasma-related gene loci TYR and DCT.

Comparative study on metabolite variations of two rose teas by plant metabolomics and revealing their skin-whitening candidates by spectrum-effect relationship analysis

INTRODUCTION

Rosa rugosa var. plena Rehd (CBR) and Rosa chinensis cv. "JinBian" (JBR) are two common species used in rose tea among different original species. CBR, the officially documented original plant of the rose species for food and medicinal purposes, is more costly than JBR. With increasing demand for different rose teas, it is meaningful to compare the chemical constituents for their quality control and reveal their skin-whitening components that will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry.

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to reveal the chemical variances between CBR and JBR and determine their skin-whitening components.

METHODOLOGY

A strategy obtained by combining MS-based plant-metabolomics with spectrum-effect relationship analysis has been proposed for unveiling chemical differences between CBR and JBR and further exploring their potential skin-whitening components.

RESULTS

A total of 2030 metabolites were found that revealed considerable differences between CBR and JBR. The results of bioactivity assay demonstrated that JBR exhibited stronger tyrosinase inhibition activity than CBR. Six potential skin-whitening compounds (di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, spiraeoside, quinic acid, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose) were discovered as potential tyrosinase inhibitors, via spectrum-effect relationship analysis. This is the first time that di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose have been reported with tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, molecular docking analysis was used to reveal the inhibition mechanism of these compounds toward tyrosinase.

CONCLUSION

The finding of this study will be of great importance for the quality control of the two types of rose teas, and the revealed active ingredients will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry.

Discovery of anti-melanogenic components in persimmon (Diospyros kaki) leaf using LC-MS/MS-MN, AlphaFold2-enabled virtual screening and biological validation

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki) leaf is widely used as a tea substitute in East Asia, offering potential health benefits. Although studies have highlighted their effects on hyperpigmentation disorders, the active components remain unidentified. This study introduces a novel approach combining LC-MS/MS-based molecular networking with AlphaFold2-enabled virtual screening to expedite the identification of bioactive components in persimmon leaf. A total of 105 compounds were identified by MS/MS analysis. Further, virtual screening identified five flavonoids with potential anti-melanogenic properties. Bioassays confirmed myricetin, quercetin, and kaempferol inhibited melanogenesis in human melanocytes in a dose-dependent manner. Biolayer interferometry assays revealed strong binding affinity between these flavonols and hsTYR, with KD values of 23.26 ± 11.77 for myricetin, 12.43 ± 0.37 for quercetin, and 14.99 ± 3.80 μM for kaempferol. Molecular dynamics simulations provided insights into the binding interactions of these flavonols with hsTYR, particularly highlighting the essential role of the 3-OH group on the C-ring. This study elucidates the bioactive components responsible for the anti-melanogenic effects of persimmon leaf, supporting their use in product development.

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Study of the Chemical Composition of Rosa beggeriana Schrenk's Fruits and Leaves

Rosa species are widely used in folk medicine in different countries of Asia and Europe, but not all species are studied in-depth. For instance, Rosa beggeriana Schrenk, a plant which grows in Central Asia, Iran, and some parts of China, is little described in articles. Column and thin-layer chromatography methods were used to isolate biologically active substances. From a study of fruits and leaves of Rosa beggeriana Schrenk, a large number of compounds were identified, seven of which were isolated: 3β,23-dihydroxyurs-12-ene (1), β-sitosterol (2), betulin (3), (+)-catechin (4), lupeol (5), ethyl linoleate (6), and ethyl linolenoate (7). Their structures were elucidated by 1H, DEPT and 13C NMR spectroscopy, mass spectrometry, and GC-MS (gas chromatography-mass spectrometry). The study also identified the structures of organic compounds, including volatile esters and acids. Consequently, comprehensive data were acquired concerning the chemical constitution of said botanical specimen.

Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Regulatory Activities of Extracts from Herb, Leaf and In Vitro Culture of Achillea millefolium (Yarrow)

Achillea millefolium L. is one of the most known medicinal plants with a broad spectrum of applications in the treatment of inflammation, pain, microbial infections and gastrointestinal disorders. In recent years, the extracts from A. millefolium have also been applied in cosmetics with cleansing, moisturizing, shooting, conditioning and skin-lightening properties. The growing demand for naturally derived active substances, worsening environmental pollution and excessive use of natural resources are causing increased interest in the development of alternative methods for the production of plant-based ingredients. In vitro plant cultures are an eco-friendly tool for continuous production of desired plant metabolites, with increasing applicability in cosmetics and dietary supplements. The purpose of the study was to compare phytochemical composition and antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory properties of aqueous and hydroethanolic extracts from A. millefolium obtained from field conditions (AmL and AmH extracts) and in vitro cultures (AmIV extracts). In vitro microshoot cultures of A. millefolium were obtained directly from seeds and harvested following 3 weeks of culture. Extracts prepared in water, 50% ethanol and 96% ethanol were compared for the total polyphenolic content, phytochemical content using the ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-hr-qTOF/MS), antioxidant activity by DPPH scavenging assay and the influence on the activity of mushroom and murine tyrosinases. The phytochemical content of AmIV extracts was significantly different from AmL and AmH extracts. Most of the polyphenolic compounds identified in AmL and AmH extracts were present in AmIV extracts only in trace amounts and the major constituents presented in AmIV extracts were fatty acids. The total content of polyphenols in AmIV exceeded 0.25 mg GAE/g of dried extract, whereas AmL and AmH extracts contained from 0.46 ± 0.01 to 2.63 ± 0.11 mg GAE/g of dried extract, depending on the solvent used. The low content of polyphenols was most likely responsible for the low antioxidant activity of AmIV extracts (IC₅₀ values in DPPH scavenging assay >400 µg/mL) and the lack of tyrosinase inhibitory properties. AmIV extracts increased the activity of mushroom tyrosinase and tyrosinase present in B16F10 murine melanoma cells, whereas AmL and AmH extracts showed significant inhibitory potential. The presented data indicated that microshoot cultures of A. millefolium require further experimental research before they can be implemented as a valuable raw material for the cosmetics industry.

Cannabidiol and Minor Phytocannabinoids: A Preliminary Study to Assess Their Anti-Melanoma, Anti-Melanogenic, and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties

Currently, there is an increased interest from both scientists and consumers in the application of cannabis/hemp/phytocannabinoids in skin-related disorders. However, most previous investigations assessed the pharmacological properties of hemp extracts, cannabidiol (CBD), or tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), with very few studies focusing on minor phytocannabinoids from hemp. In this context, the current work explored the in vitro anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase effects of cannabidiol (CBD) and three minor phytocannabinoids, namely cannabigerol (CBG), cannabinol (CBN), and cannabichromene (CBC). Among the tested human malignant melanoma cells (A375, SH4, and G361), only A375 cells were highly susceptible to the 48 h treatment with the four phytocannabinoids (IC₅₀ values between 12.02 and 25.13 μg/mL). When melanogenesis was induced in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (αMSH), CBD, CBG, and CBN significantly decreased the extracellular (29.76-45.14% of αMSH+ cells) and intracellular (60.59-67.87% of αMSH+ cells) melanin content at 5 μg/mL. Lastly, CBN (50-200 μg/mL) inhibited both mushroom and murine tyrosinase, whereas CBG (50-200 μg/mL) and CBC (100-200 μg/mL) down-regulated only the mushroom tyrosinase activity; in contrast, CBD was practically inactive. The current data show that tyrosinase inhibition might not be responsible for reducing the melanin biosynthesis in α-MSH-treated B16F10 cells. By evaluating for the first time the preliminary anti-melanoma, anti-melanogenic, and anti-tyrosinase properties of CBN and CBC and confirming similar effects for CBD and CBG, this study can expand the utilization of CBD and, in particular, of minor phytocannabinoids to novel cosmeceutical products for skin care.