Effect of Camellia japonica oil on human type I procollagen production and skin barrier function

Multiplicative Effects of Essential Oils and Other Active Components on Skin Tissue and Skin Cancers

Naturally derived essential oils and their active components are known to possess various properties, ranging from anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-cancer activities. Numerous types of essential oils and active components have been discovered, and their permissive roles have been addressed in various fields. In this comprehensive review, we focused on the roles of essential oils and active components in skin diseases and cancers as discovered over the past three decades. In particular, we opted to highlight the effectiveness of essential oils and their active components in developing strategies against various skin diseases and skin cancers and to describe the effects of the identified essential-oil-derived major components from physiological and pathological perspectives. Overall, this review provides a basis for the development of novel therapies for skin diseases and cancers, especially melanoma.

Poria cocos Lanostane Triterpenoids Extract Promotes Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Production in D-Galactose-Induced Aging Rats

The global aging population is expanding at an increasingly rapid pace, with approximately one-fourth of the world's population expected to be composed of elderly individuals by 2050. Aging skin is one of the major characteristics expressed in the elderly. The study comprehensively utilizes both cell and animal experiments to confirm the skin anti-aging effects of Poria cocos (P. cocos), which is one of the most important traditional Chinese medicines classified as tonic Chinese medicine, commonly used to treat physical weakness and aging-associated diseases. We demonstrate in this study that P. cocos lanostane triterpenoids extract (Lipucan®) ameliorates aging skin and promotes collagen accumulation and hyaluronic acid production in galactose-induced aging rats. Purified lanostane triterpenoids were initially identified as active components in P. cocos, which significantly increased collagen and hyaluronic acid levels in cultured human skin cells.

Analysis of Camellia oleifera transcriptome reveals key pathways and hub genes involved during different photoperiods

BACKGROUND

Camellia oleifera Abel. (C. oleifera) is an important traditional woody species in China that produces edible oil. However, the current literature lacks a proper understanding of C. oleifera's ability to adapt to different photoperiods.

RESULTS

Our results indicate that the photoperiod can significantly impact flowering time in C. oleifera. We grew a total of nine samples under the short day condition (SD), middle day condition (MD) and long day condition (LD). Transcriptome analysis yielded 66.94 Gb of high-quality clean reads, with an average of over 6.73 Gb of reads for per sample. Following assembly, a total of 120,080 transcripts were obtained and 94,979 unigenes annotated. A total of 3475 differentially expressed genes (DEGs) were identified between the SD_MD, SD_LD, and MD_LD gene sets. Moreover, WGCNA identified ten gene modules. Genes in pink module (92 genes) were positively correlated with SD, and negatively correlated with both MD and LD. Genes in the magenta module (42 genes) were positively correlated with MD and negatively correlated with both LD and SD. Finally, genes in the yellow module (1758 genes) were positively correlated with both SD and MD, but negatively correlated with LD. KEGG enrichment analysis revealed that genes in the pink, magenta, and yellow modules were involved in flavonoid biosynthesis, amino sugar and nucleotide sugar metabolism and circadian rhythm pathways. Additionally, eight hub genes (GI, AP2, WRKY65, SCR, SHR, PHR1, ERF106, and SCL3) were obtained through network analysis. The hub genes had high connectivity with other photoperiod-sensitive DEGs. The expression levels of hub genes were verified by qRT-PCR analysis.

CONCLUSION

An increase in light duration promotes earlier flowering of C. oleifera. Flavonoid biosynthesis, amino sugar and nucleotide sugar metabolism, and circadian rhythm pathways may function in the photoperiodic flowering pathway of C. oleifera. We also identified eight hub genes that may play a role in this pathway. Ultimately, this work contributes to our understanding of the photoperiodic flowering pathway of C. oleifera and further informs molecular breeding programs on the plant's photoperiodic sensitivity.

Quality Evaluation of the Oil of Camellia spp

The oil of Camellia spp. has become a well-known high-quality edible oil because of its rich nutrition. It is of great significance to breed fine varieties of Camellia spp. for the sustainable growth of the Camellia spp. industry. This study mainly evaluated the quality and antioxidant capacity of the camellia seed from several sources. The fatty acid composition and main active components of 40 kinds of C. oleifera, C. vietnamensis, C. osmantha, and C. gigantocarpa seeds, and so on, from different regions, were tested using GC-MS and HPLC. The quality of different Camellia spp. germplasm resources was comprehensively evaluated using multiple indices. The unsaturated fatty acid content and the antioxidant capacity of C. vietnamensis from Hainan were higher than those of C. oleifera Abel. In addition, there were a few differences in the fatty acid compositions of Camellia spp. oil from different species. Correlation analysis confirmed that rutin, total saponin, total flavonoids, squalene, and vitamin E were strongly correlated to the antioxidant capacity of Camellia spp. In the comprehensive evaluation, the best quality and strongest antioxidant activity were found for Chengmai Dafeng (C. vietnamensis). These methods in the study were applied for the first time for the quality evaluation of the Camellia spp. species. This study provided new insights into the quality evaluation of the Camellia spp. species, thus facilitating further development of variety breeding along with quality evaluation.

Camellia japonica: A phytochemical perspective and current applications facing its industrial exploitation

In response to the increased popularity of medicinal plants, a number of conservation groups are recommending the investigation on poorly characterized and widely distributed species, as it is the case of camellias. In particular, Camellia japonica L. is a widespread species found in Galicia (NW Spain), where it has been largely exploited with ornamental purposes. Recent findings on its phytochemical characterization showed thousands of bioactive ingredients, mostly represented by phenolic compounds, together with terpenoids, and fatty acids. These molecules present associated biological activities, acting as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer agents. This review is aimed at describing the main bioactive compounds of C. japonica, as well as the health-enhancing properties attributed to this medicinal plant. Novel strategies are needed to implement an efficient industrialization process for C. japonica, ranging from small-scale approaches to the establishment of large plantations, thus involving important sectors, such as the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Camellia japonica Essential Oil Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanin Production and Tyrosinase Activity in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Essential oils are aromatic oils extracted from the leaves, stems, peels, petals, and roots of aromatic plants grown in nature or grown in organic methods and have various medical effects as natural substances. The essential oil extracted from Camellia japonica seeds exhibits various functional properties; however, its tyrosinase inhibitory activity has not been investigated extensively. This study is performed to investigate the chemical composition and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of Camellia japonica seed essential oil (CJS-EO). Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane (42.36%) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (23.28%) are the two primary components of CJS-EO, as identified via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The inhibitory activities of CJS-EO and positive control arbutin are further evaluated against mushroom tyrosinase. The results show that CJS-EO and arbutin inhibit tyrosinase activity. Moreover, CJS-EO significantly inhibits melanogenesis in the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-treated group, and a significant amount of melanin is suppressed. To ascertain the cause of the CJS-EO tyrosinase inhibitory effect and melanin reduction effect, genetic and protein analyses are performed. Based on our results, we tentatively conclude that CJS-EO can inhibit melanocytes from harmful factors such as tyrosinase-related protein. These results demonstrate that CJS-EO possesses potent antityrosinase activity and may be a good skin-whitening agent.

Anticancer properties of dried-pericarp water extracts of Camellia japonica L. fermented with Aspergillus oryzae through regulation of IGFBP-2/mTOR pathway

This study aimed to investigate the anticancer activity of dried-pericarp water extract of fermented C. japonicus (CJ). The dried-pericarp water extracts of CJ were fermented using Aspergillus oryzae and Saccharomyces cerevisiae at 30 °C and 35 °C. The anticancer activities of both water extracts fermented at 30 °C and 35 °C using A. oryzae against FaDu cells were remarkably changed compared with unfermented dried-pericarp water extract of CJ, which has no anticancer activity. Cleaved-PARP, caspase 3, and apoptotic cells stained with annexin V/PI were significantly increased by treatment with A. oryzae extracts fermented at 30 °C. The insulin-like growth factor-binding protein 2 (IGFBP-2) protein level and mTOR phosphorylation by A. oryzae fermented extracts (AOFE) were dramatically reduced, and the expression levels of IGFBP-2 and phosphorylated mTOR were significantly increased depending on the glucose concentrations in FaDu cells. These results suggested that the cell viabilities in AOFE were restored as the glucose concentrations increased. Furthermore, it was confirmed LC/MS/MS that the content of gallic acid was increased by fermentation of Aspergillus oryzae (5.596 ± 0.1746 μg/mg) compared to the unfermented extract (1.620 ± 0.0432 μg/mg). Based on these results, the anticancer effect of AOFE was achieved through inhibition of the IGFBP-2/mTOR signaling pathway. These results suggest that AOFE may be a potential treatment for head and neck cancer.

Fast 1H-NMR Species Differentiation Method for Camellia Seed Oils Applied to Spanish Ornamentals Plants. Comparison with Traditional Gas Chromatography

Camellia genus (Theaceae) is comprised of world famous ornamental flowering plants. C. japonica L. and C. sasanqua Thunb are the most cultivated species due to their good adaptation. The commercial interest in this plant linked to its seed oil increased in the last few years due to its health attributes, which significantly depend on different aspects such as species and environmental conditions. Therefore, it is essential to develop fast and reliable methods to distinguish between different varieties and ensure the quality of Camellia seed oils. The present work explores the study of Camellia seed oils by species and location. Two standardized gas chromatography methods were applied and compared with that of data obtained from proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (¹H-NMR) for fatty acids profiling. The principal component analysis indicated that the proposed ¹H-NMR methodology can be quickly and reliably applied to separate specific Camellia species, which could be extended to other species in future works.

Evaluation of Fatty Acid Compositions, Antioxidant, and Pharmacological Activities of Pumpkin (Cucurbita moschata) Seed Oil from Aqueous Enzymatic Extraction

Pumpkin seed oil is a by-product, abundant in nutrients and bioactive components that promote several health benefits. This study aimed to compare chemical compositions, antioxidant, and pharmacological activities of pumpkin seed oils extracted from Cucurbita moschata Duch. Ex Poir. (PSO1) and Cucurbita moschata (Japanese pumpkin) (PSO2) by aqueous enzymatic extraction. An enzyme mixture consisting of pectinase, cellulase, and protease (1:1:1) was used in the enzymatic extraction process. Fatty acid composition of the oils was determined using fatty acid methyl ester/gas chromatographic-mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activity assays were measured by using stable free radical diphenylpicrylhydrazyl, radical cation 2,2′-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate, ferric reducing/antioxidant power, and ferric thiocyanate assay. Inhibition of enzymes involving skin aging and whitening process was investigated. Linoleic acid was a major component of all pumpkin seed oils. Additionally, there was also a significant amount of oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid detected. PSO2 possessed the highest antioxidant activities compared to PSO1 and commercial pumpkin seed oils (COM1 and COM2). Both PSO1 and PSO2 exhibited higher inhibitory effects on hyaluronidase, collagenase, and tyrosinase than the commercials. Therefore, aqueous enzymatic extraction could yield pumpkin seed oils with higher antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening activities. This is beneficial for further pharmacological studies and can be used as a functional food for skin benefits.

An Overview on Total Valorization of Litsea cubeba as a New Woody Oil Plant Resource toward a Zero-Waste Biorefinery

With the increasing global demand for edible oils and the restriction of arable land minimum in China, woody oil plants have gradually become the optimal solution to cover the shortage of current edible oil supply and to further improve the self-sufficiency rate. However, due to the lack of knowledge and technique, problems like “how to make full use of these plant resources?” and “how to guide consumers with reasonable data?” limit the development of woody oilseed industry towards a sustainable circular economy. In this review, several emerging unique woody oil plants in China were introduced, among which Litsea cubeba as a new woody oil plant was highlighted as a reference case based on its current research progress. Unlike other woody oil plants, essential oil rather than oil from Litsea cubeba has always been the main product through the years due to its interesting biological activities. Most importantly, its major component, citral, could be the base for other synthesized perfume compounds with added value. Moreover, the sustainable biorefinery of large amounts of waste residual after Litsea cubeba essential oil processing is now technically feasible, which could inspire a total valorization pathway for other woody oil plants to make more competitive plant-based products with both economic, social, and ecological benefits.

Effect of oleogelation on physical properties and oxidative stability of camellia oil-based oleogels and oleogel emulsions

In this work, the camellia oil-based oleogels and O/W oleogel emulsions were prepared with glycerol monolaurate (GML) as an oleogelator, which had a critical gelation concentration of 3 wt%. Results showed that with the increasing GML concentration, a more densely needle-like morphology was formed by the network of GML crystals within the oil, presenting the enhanced thermal stability due to the occurrence of van der Waals interactions and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. In turn, a more compact three-dimensional network was obtained in the emulsions with a larger droplet size, leading to a transition from a predominately elastic to viscous state. Moreover, a lower oxidation rate was observed by the POV and TBARS values as a function of storage time in either the oleogels or oleogel emulsions, indicating a better oxidative stability. These results contribute to a better understanding of oleogelation in camellia oil-based oleogels and oleogel emulsions for formulating food, pharmaceutical and person care products with desired physical properties and oxidative stability.

Lipid Characteristics of Camellia Seed Oil

Camellia oleifera, C. japonica and C. sinensis are three representative crops of the genus Camellia. In this work, we systematically investigated the lipid characteristics of these seed oils collected from different regions. The results indicated significant differences in acid value (AV), peroxide value (PV), iodine value (IV), saponification value (SV) and relative density of the above-mentioned camellia seed oils (p < 0.05). The C. japonica seed oils showed the highest AV (1.7 mg/g), and the C. sinensis seed oils showed the highest PV (17.4 meq/kg). The C. japonica seed oils showed the lowest IV (79.9 g/100 g), SV (192.7 mg/g) and refractive index (1.4633) of all the oils, while the C. sinensis seed oils showed the lowest relative density (0.911 g/cm³). The major fatty acids in the camellia seed oils were palmitic acid (16:0), oleic acid (18:1) and linoleic acid (18:2); the oleic acid in C. oleifera and C. japonica seed oils accounted for more than 80% of the total fatty acids. The oleic acid levels in the C. oleifera and C. japonica oils were higher than those in the C. sinensis seed oils, while the linoleic acid levels in the former were lower than those in the latter one. Differences also exist in the triacylglycerol (TAG) composition, although the most abundant TAG molecular species in the camellia seed oils was trioleoylglycerol (OOO). Seven sterol species, squalene and α-tocopherol were detected in the camellia seed oils, however, the contents of tocopherol and unsaponifiable molecules in the C. oleifera and C. japonica seed oils were significantly lower than those in the C. sinensis seed oil. These results demonstrated that the varieties of Camellia affected the seed oil lipid characteristics.

Effects of the Extracts from Fruit and Stem of Camellia japonica on Induced Pluripotency and Wound Healing

Small molecules that improve reprogramming, stem cell properties, and regeneration can be widely applied in regenerative medicine. Natural plant extracts represent an abundant and valuable source of bioactive small molecules for drug discovery. Natural products themselves or direct derivatives of them have continued to provide small molecules that have entered clinical trials, such as anticancer and antimicrobial drugs. Here, we tested 3695 extracts from native plants to examine whether they can improve induced pluripotent stem cell (iPSC) generation using genetically homogeneous secondary mouse embryonic fibroblasts (MEFs) harboring doxycycline (dox)-inducible reprograming transgenes. Among the tested extracts, extracts from the fruit and stem of Camellia japonica (CJ) enhanced mouse and human iPSC generation and promoted efficient wound healing in an in vivo mouse wound model. CJ is one of the best-known species of the genus Camellia that belongs to the Theaceae family. Our findings identified the natural plant extracts from the fruit and stem of CJ as novel regulators capable of enhancing cellular reprogramming and wound healing, providing a useful supplement in the development of a more efficient and safer method to produce clinical-grade iPSCs and therapeutics.

Protective effects of compounds from Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen) against UVB damage in HaCaT cells and hairless mice

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation causes alterations in the skin, such as epidermal thickening, wrinkle formation and inflammation. Therefore, preventing UVB-induced skin damage can promote general health among the human population. Garcinia mangostana L. (mangosteen) is a fruit that has become a popular botanical dietary supplement because of its perceived role in promoting overall health. The present study investigated the photoprotective effects of α-, β-, γ-mangostins and gartanin against UVB radiation using the HaCaT immortalized human keratinocyte cell line as an in vitro model and hairless mice as an in vivo model. UVB radiation increased the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)‑1 and ‑9 and decreased the mRNA expression levels of involucrin, filaggrin and loricrin in HaCaT cells; however, these changes were attenuated by pretreating the cells with α-, β-, γ-mangostins and gartanin. Among these compounds, α-mangostin exhibited the greatest effects in reducing UVB-induced skin wrinkles, inhibited epidermal thickening in hairless mice in vivo. Exposure to UVB radiation increased the expression of MMPs and pro-inflammatory cytokines and activated mitogen-activated protein kinases in hairless mice, but these changes were attenuated by α-mangostin. The authors suggested that α-mangostin exerts anti-wrinkle and anti-aging properties.

Essential oil obtained from micropropagated lavender, its effect on HSF cells and application in cosmetic emulsion as a natural protective substance

The aim of the study was to determine the influence of the essential oils isolated from the field - grown and micropropagated in vitro narrow - leaved lavender of the 'Munstead' cultivar, on human skin cells, and their capability to synthesise procollagen. The amount of procollagen type I produced by fibroblast cells was determined using ELISA kit. Essential oil isolated from micropropagated lavender was further used as a protective ingredient against the development of microorganisms in O/W cosmetic emulsion. The presented results demonstrate that the use of 0.01, 0.001 and 0.0001% essential oils isolated from in vitro plants stimulate HSF cells to the production of procollagen. It was further performed that the tested essential oil used in the concentration of 0.1% in a cosmetic emulsion is characterised by preservative effect for cosmetic preparations for the period of 3 months.

The Possible Pre- and Post-UVA Radiation Protective Effect of Amaranth Oil on Human Skin Fibroblast Cells

Background:

The health effects of Amaranth Oil (AO) are attributed to its specific chemical composition. That makes it an outstanding natural product for the prevention and treatment of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-related pathologies such as sunburn, photoaging, photoimmunosuppression, and photocarcinogenesis. Most of the studies are taken on animal model, and there is a lack of research on the endogenous effect of AO on fibroblast level, where UVA takes it harmful place.

Objective:

The aim of this study was evaluation if AO can protect or abolish UVA exposure effect on human skin fibroblast.

Materials and Methods:

The 0.1% AO, 0.25% AO, and 0.5% AO concentration and irradiation for 15 min under UVA-emitting lamp were studied in various condition. In all experiments, the mean values for six assays ± standard deviations were calculated.

Results:

Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO was tested. The highest concentration of AO where cell survival was observed was 0.5%. Cytotoxicity assays provided evidence for pre- and post-UVA protective effect of 0.1% AO among three tested concentrations. The results also provide evidence that UVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in confluent skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effect comparing to other used AO concentration. The assessment results on DNA biosynthesis show the significant abolished post-UVA effect when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added.

Conclusion:

AO gives pre- and post-UVA protection in low concentration. This provides the evidence for using it not as a main protective factor against UV but as one of the combined components in cosmetic formulation.

SUMMARY

The recommended Amaranth Oil (AO) concentration in cosmetic formulation is between 0.1 and 5%

Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO suggests to use the highest 0.5% concentration of AO in human skin fibroblast cultures

The 0.1% of AO in fibroblast cultures, protects and abolishes effect of ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure

UVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effect

The abolished post-UVA effect occurs when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added on DNA biosynthesis.

Abbreviations used: AO: Amaranth Oil.

The Effect of Camellia Seed Oil Intake on Lipid Metabolism in Mice

Camellia seed oil has mainly been applied to the production of cosmetics, and research into its dietary effects is required. Alterations in lipid metabolism by the intake of camellia seed oil were investigated. Health parameters such as diet intake, weight gain, fat mass, and plasma cholesterol and triglyceride levels were measured in mice fed a high fat diet containing camellia seed oil; comparisons were made to a normal diet and a high fat diet containing either soybean oil or olive oil as controls. No significant differences in weight gain and diet intake were observed between the groups. However, the camellia seed oil diet suppressed epididymal fat weight similarly to the olive oil diet. In total cholesterol and HDL (high density lipoprotein) cholesterol levels, the soybean oil, olive oil and camellia seed oil diet groups showed significant increases compared with the normal diet. However, increases in LDL (low density lipoprotein) cholesterol levels were inhibited by the camellia seed oil diet similarly to the olive oil diet. As the high oleic acid content of camellia seed oil is similar to that of olive oil, it is proposed that its presence mitigated fat accumulation and plasma cholesterol levels.

Comparison of Oil Content and Fatty Acid Profile of Ten New Camellia oleifera Cultivars

The oil contents and fatty acid (FA) compositions of ten new and one wild Camellia oleifera varieties were investigated. Oil contents in camellia seeds from new C. oleifera varied with cultivars from 41.92% to 53.30% and were affected by cultivation place. Average oil content (47.83%) of dry seeds from all ten new cultivars was almost the same as that of wild common C. oleifera seeds (47.06%). New C. oleifera cultivars contained similar FA compositions which included palmitic acid (C16:0, PA), palmitoleic acid (C16:1), stearic acid (C18:0, SA), oleic acid (C18:1, OA), linoleic acid (C18:2, LA), linolenic acid (C18:3), eicosenoic acid (C20:1), and tetracosenoic acid (C24:1). Predominant FAs in mature seeds were OA (75.78%~81.39%), LA (4.85%~10.79%), PA (7.68%~10.01%), and SA (1.46%~2.97%) and OA had the least coefficient of variation among different new cultivars. Average ratio of single FA of ten artificial C. oleifera cultivars was consistent with that of wild common C. oleifera. All cultivars contained the same ratios of saturated FA (SFA) and unsaturated FA (USFA). Oil contents and FA profiles of new cultivars were not significantly affected by breeding and selection.

Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Aging, and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of the Essential Oils from Two Varieties of Alpinia zerumbet

Here, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-aging effects of essential oils (EOs) from the leaves of Alpinia zerumbet (tairin and shima) in vitro and anti-melanogenic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. The anti-oxidant activities were performed with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS); nitric oxide; singlet oxygen; hydroxyl radical scavenging; and xanthine oxidase. The inhibitory activities against collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were employed for anti-aging. The anti-melanogenic was assessed in B16F10 melanoma cells by melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The EO was a complex mixture mainly consisting of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. The results revealed that tairin and shima EOs showed strong anti-oxidant activities against DPPH and nitric oxide, hydroxyl radical scavenging activity, and xanthine oxidase inhibition. Compared to shima EO; tairin EO exhibited strong anti-aging activity by inhibiting collagenase, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase (IC50 = 11 ± 0.1; 25 ± 1.2; 83 ± 1.6; and 213 ± 2 μg/mL, respectively). Both EOs inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity; thus, reducing melanin synthesis. These results suggest that tairin EO has better anti-oxidant/anti-aging activity than shima EO, but both are equally anti-melanogenic.

Anti-inflammatory activity of Camellia japonica oil

Camellia japonica oil (CJ oil) has been used traditionally in East Asia to nourish and soothe the skin as well as help restore the elasticity of skin. CJ oil has also been used on all types of bleeding instances. However, little is known about its anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, the anti-inflammatory effects of CJ oil and its mechanisms of action were investigated. CJ oil inhibited LPS-induced production of NO, PGE(2), and TNF-α in RAW264.7 cells. In addition, expression of COX-2 and iNOS genes was reduced. To evaluate the mechanism of the anti-inflammatory activity of CJ oil, LPS-induced activation of AP-1 and NF-κB promoters was found to be significantly reduced by CJ oil. LPS-induced phosphorylation of IκBα, ERK, p38, and JNK was also attenuated. Our results indicate that CJ oil exerts anti-inflammatory effects by downregulating the expression of iNOS and COX-2 genes through inhibition of NF-κB and AP-1 signaling. [BMB reports 2012; 45(3): 177-182].

In vitro techniques to assess the proficiency of skin care cosmetic formulations

Cosmetics comprising either natural or synthetic components are used almost regularly and universally in different forms to enhance the beauty. The utmost disclosure of human membrane to sunlight and environmental pollution results in the exhibition of free radical, that react with deoxyribonucleic acid, proteins and fatty acids, causation oxidative destruction dysfunction of the antioxidant system. In skin, the formation of reactive oxygen species leads to skin diseases, predominantly cutaneous malignancies, immunosuppression, wrinkles, aging, etc., The human organism fosters a barrier practice against the destructive action of free radicals, comprising mostly of vitamins, carotenoids and enzymes. Cosmetic products are the best option to reduce skin disorders such as hyper pigmentation, skin aging, skin wrinkling and rough skin texture, etc., Hence in this review, we conferred various in vitro methods that are used for the development of novel cosmetic formulation. There is an expanding fascinate employing in vitro techniques because they are less time consuming, more cost-effective and lessen the participation of human volunteers.

Methods for the discovery of new anti-aging products--targeted approaches

INTRODUCTION

Aging is considered to be one of the most complicated and heterogeneous phenomena and is the main risk factor for most chronic diseases, disabilities and declining health. Aging cells cease to divide and drive the progression of illness through various pathways. Over the years, a number of anti-aging medicines of natural and synthetic origin have been introduced. Indeed, some studies have identified senescent cells as potential therapeutic targets in the treatment of aging and age-related diseases.

AREAS COVERED

In this review, the authors highlight and critically review the possible mechanisms of the aging process and related illnesses. The authors give particular attention to illnesses, including Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, skin aging and cardiovascular diseases.

EXPERT OPINION

Several reports have highlighted that mitochondria are a key factor in the progression of aging and neurodegenerative illnesses. This is due to their production of extra amounts of reactive oxygen species, which leads into progressive caspase-dependent apoptosis and cell death. Therefore, strategies to prevent/reduce oxidative stress-mediated aging, whether environmental, nutritional and pharmacological, need to be taken into account. Presently, Drosophila melanogaster and Caenorhabditis elegans, which focus on the evolutionary and genetic foundations of aging, have helped to establish the screening of several synthetic and natural compounds with large cohorts in a quick manner. However, there is yet to be any efficient experimental evidence to prove the exact role of senescent cells in age-related dysfunction and further studies are required to better understand these processes.

Beneficial effects of Camellia Oil (Camellia oleifera Abel.) on ketoprofen-induced gastrointestinal mucosal damage through upregulation of HO-1 and VEGF

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, such as ketoprofen, are generally used to treat pain and inflammation and as pyretic agents in clinical medicine. However, the usage of these drugs may lead to oxidative injury to the gastrointestinal mucosa. Camellia oil ( Camellia oleifera Abel.) is commonly used in Taiwan and China as cooking oil. Traditional remedies containing this oil exert beneficial health effects on the bowel, stomach, liver, and lungs. However, the effects of camellia oil on ketoprofen-induced oxidative gastrointestinal mucosal lesions remain unknown. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of camellia oil on ketoprofen-induced acute gastrointestinal ulcers. The results showed that treatment of Int-407 cells with camellia oil (50-75 μg/mL) not only increased the levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), glutathione peroxidase (GPx), and superoxide dismutase (SOD) mRNA expression but also increased vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) protein secretion, which served as a mucosal barrier against gastrointestinal oxidative injury. Moreover, Sprague-Dawley (SD) rats treated with camellia oil (2 mL/kg/day) prior to the administration of ketoprofen (50 mg/kg/day) successfully inhibited COX-2 protein expression, inhibited the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and nitrite oxide (NO), reversed the impairment of the antioxidant system, and decreased oxidative damage in the gastrointestinal mucosa. More importantly, pretreatment of SD rats with camellia oil strongly inhibited gastrointestinal mucosal injury induced by ketoprofen, which was proved by the histopathological staining of gastrointestinal tissues. Our data suggest that camellia oil exerts potent antiulcer effects against oxidative damage in the stomach and intestine induced by ketoprofen.

Cytotoxicity and pharmacogenomics of medicinal plants from traditional korean medicine

Aim. The present study was designed to investigate the cytotoxicity of a panel of 280 Korean medicinal plants belonging to 73 families and 198 species against human CCRF-CEM leukemia cells. Selected phytochemicals were investigated in more detail for their mode of action. Methods. The resazurin assay was used to determine cytotoxicity of the plant extracts. Microarray-based mRNA expression profiling, COMPARE, and hierarchical cluster analyses were applied to identify which genes correlate with sensitivity or resistance to selected phytochemicals of the Korean plants. Results. The results of the resazurin assay showed that cytotoxicity extracts tested at 10  μ g/mL from 13 samples inhibited proliferation more than 50% (IC50 < 10  μ g/mL) and the most active plants are Sedum middendorffianum (15.33%) and Lycoris radiata (17.61%). Out of 13 selected phytochemicals from these plants, hopeaphenol and deoxynarciclasine were the most cytotoxic ones. Genes from various functional groups (transcriptional or translational regulation, signal transduction, cellular proliferation, intracellular trafficking, RNA metabolism, endoplasmic/sarcoplasmic reticulum function, etc.) were significantly correlated with response of tumor cell lines to these two compounds. Conclusion. The results provide evidence on the possible use of selected Korean medicinal plants and chemical constituents derived from them for the treatment of tumors.

Triacylglyceride, antioxidant and antimicrobial features of virgin Camellia oleifera, C. reticulata and C. sasanqua Oils

Virgin oils obtained from seeds of Camellia oleifera (CO), Camellia reticulata (CR) and Camellia sasanqua (CS) were studied for their triacylglyceride composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities. Levels of fatty acids determined by ¹H-nuclear magnetic resonance analysis were similar to those reported for olive oils (82.30%-84.47%; 5.69%-7.78%; 0.26%-0.41% and 8.04%-11.2%, for oleic, linoleic, linolenic and saturated acids, respectively). The CR oil showed the best antioxidant potential in the three in vitro models tested. With regard to EC₅₀ values (µg/mL), the order in DPPH radical-scavenging was CR (33.48) < CO (35.20) < CS (54.87). Effectiveness in reducing power was CR (2.81) < CO (3.09) < CS (5.32). IC₅₀ for LPO inhibition were 0.37, 0.52 and 0.75 µg/mL for CR, CO and CS, respectively. All the oils showed antimicrobial activity, and exhibited different selectivity and MICs for each microorganism tested (E. coli, B. cereus and C. albicans). B. cereus was the less sensitive species (MIC: 52.083 ± 18.042 for CO; 41.667 ± 18.042 for CR; 104.167 ± 36.084 for CS mg/mL) and the E. coli was the most sensitive to camellia oil's effect. The standard gentamicin presented higher MIC for E. coli (4.2) than the CR (MIC= 2.6) and CO (MIC = 3.9) oils.

Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies

The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. We tried to gather the most interesting evidence based on facts about plants and plant extracts used in antiaging products. Our main idea was to emphasize action mechanisms of these plant/herbal products, that is, their “strategies” in fighting skin ageing. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect.

¹H-nuclear magnetic resonance analysis of the triacylglyceride composition of cold-pressed oil from Camellia japonica

Camellia japonica (CJ) has oil-rich seeds, but the study of these oils has received little attention and has mainly focused only on their health properties. In the present work the relative composition of the fatty acid (FA) components of the triglycerides in cold-pressed oil from CJ is studied by ¹H-NMR. The results obtained were: 75.75%, 6.0%, 0.17% and 18.67%, for oleic, linoleic, linolenic and saturated FA respectively. Levels of C₁₈ unsaturated FA found in CJ oil were similar to those reported for olive oils. We also checked the possibility of using ¹³C-NMR spectroscopy; however, the results confirmed the drawback of ¹³C over ¹H-NMR for the study of FA components of CJ triglycerides due to its low gyromagnetic ratio and its very low natural abundance.

Amentoflavone inhibits UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression through the modulation of AP-1 components in normal human fibroblasts

Amentoflavone is a well-known biflavonoid that has diverse biological effects. Previously, we reported that amentoflavone suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in normal human fibroblasts (NHF). We investigated the effects of amentoflavone on UVB-induced MMP-1 expression in order to elucidate its mode of action. NHF were treated with amentoflavone for indicated times and doses with UVB irradiation. The expressions of MMP-1 gene and protein were determined by RT-PCR and ELISA, respectively. MAP kinase phosphorylation and the expression of c-Fos protein were determined by Western blot. The treatment of amentoflavone completely blocked the upregulation of MMP-1 which is induced by UVB irradiation in HaCaT-NHF co-culture in a dose-dependent manner as well as in NHF monoculture. Also, amentoflavone inhibited UVB-induced activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) without changing total ERK protein level, and did not affect p38 or JNK activation. Finally, AP-1 transcription factor components, phospho-c-Jun and c-Fos protein expressions were decreased by amentoflavone treatment. The major finding of this study shows that amentoflavone inhibits intracellular cell signaling ERK pathway leading to the prevention of MMP-1 expression in human skin fibroblasts. Therefore, these results strongly suggest that amentoflavone should be investigated as a potential agent for the prevention and the treatment of skin photoaging.

Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging

Skin aging involves degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) in both the epidermal and dermal layers, it leaves visible signs on the surface of skin and the physical properties of the skin are modified. Chronological aging is due to passage of time, whereas premature aging occurred due to some environmental factors on skin produces visible signs such as irregular dryness, dark/light pigmentation, sallowness, severe atrophy, telangiectases, premalignant lesions, laxity, leathery appearance and deep wrinkling. There are several synthetic skincare cosmetics existing in the market to treat premature aging and the most common adverse reactions of those include allergic contact dermatitis, irritant contact dermatitis, phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions. Recent trends in anti-aging research projected the use of natural products derived from ancient era after scientific validation. Ample varieties of phytomolecules such as aloin, ginsenoside, curcumin, epicatechin, asiaticoside, ziyuglycoside I, magnolol, gallic acid, hydroxychavicol, hydroxycinnamic acids, hydroxybenzoic acids, etc. scavenges free radicals from skin cells, prevent trans-epidermal water loss, include a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 or higher contribute to protect skin from wrinkles, leading to glowing and healthy younger skin. Present era of treating aging skin has become technologically more invasive; but herbal products including botanicals are still relevant and combining them with molecular techniques outlined throughout this review will help to maximize the results and maintain the desired anti-skin aging benefits.

Protective and restorative effects of a Commiphora mukul gum resin and triheptanoin preparation on the CCL-110 skin fibroblast cell line

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a major ingredient in skin care products because of its anti-wrinkle effects, although it has some side effects especially at higher amounts. In this study, we compare the anti-wrinkle related properties of CoQ10 and a proprietary Commiphora mukul gum resin (guggul) and triheptanoin preparation (GU-TC7). GU-TC7 is prepared with a supercritical CO₂-co-solvent extraction with ethanol, standardized to 2% guggulsterones and triheptanoin, a triglyceride composed of three 7-carbon fatty acids. Treatment of CCL-110 skin fibroblasts with GU-TC7 demonstrates a mild proliferative effect compared to CoQ10 and increased type I collagen synthesis. Additionally, GU-TC7 inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression in a dose-dependent manner at 20-100 μg mL⁻¹ and inhibited human elastase expression by more than 50% as compared to no elastase inhibition with CoQ10 treatment. These results suggest that GU-TC7 possesses properties that are applicable to the treatment of wrinkles and may be considered for its further evaluation in skin care products.

Beneficial regulation of matrixmetalloproteinases and their inhibitors, fibrillar collagens and transforming growth factor-beta by Polypodium leucotomos, directly or in dermal fibroblasts, ultraviolet radiated fibroblasts, and melanoma cells

The extracellular matrix (ECM) that gives tissue its structural integrity is remodeled in skin aging/photoaging and cancer via the increased expression/activities of matrixmetalloproteinases (MMP), inhibition of the tissue inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinases (TIMP), or inhibition of collagen synthesis. Transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-beta), a predominant regulator of the ECM, is inhibited in aging/photoaging and stimulated in carcinogenesis. P. leucotomos (fern) extract has potential to counteract these alterations via its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. The goal of this research was to determine the efficacy of P. leucotomos to (a) directly inhibit MMP-1, 2, 3, and 9 activities, (b) inhibit MMP-2, and stimulate TIMPs, fibrillar collagens and TGF-beta in non-irradiated or ultraviolet (UV) radiated fibroblasts, and (c) inhibit MMPs and TGF-beta, and stimulate TIMPs in melanoma cells. To this purpose, we examined the direct effect of P. leucotomos (0-1%) on MMPs' activities, and its effects on the expression (protein and/or transcription levels) of (1) MMPs and TIMPs in dermal fibroblasts, and melanoma cells, (2) TGF-beta in non-irradiated, UVA (2.5 J/cm2) or UVB (2.5 mJ/cm2) irradiated fibroblasts, and melanoma cells, and (3) types I, III, and V collagen in non-irradiated or UV irradiated fibroblasts. P. leucotomos directly inhibited the activities of MMPs as well as the expression of MMPs in fibroblasts, and melanoma cells while stimulating the expression of TIMPs in these cells. P. leucotomos stimulated types I, III, and V collagen in non-irradiated fibroblasts, and types I and V collagen in UV radiated fibroblasts. P. leucotomos had predominant stimulatory effects on TGF-beta expression in non-irradiated or UV radiated fibroblasts, and inhibited TGF-beta expression in melanoma cells. The effects of P. leucotomos were largely similar to that of ascorbic acid. P. leucotomos demonstrated dual protective effects on the ECM via its inhibition of the ECM proteolytic enzymes and the stimulation of the structural ECM collagens. The effects of P. leucotomos on fibroblasts and melanoma cells may be partly via its cell-specific regulation of TGF-beta expression and partly via its antioxidant property. The intake or topical application of P. leucotomos may be beneficial to skin health, in aging and cancer prevention or treatment.