Comparison of the melanogenesis in human black and light brown melanocytes

Atraric Acid Ameliorates Hyperpigmentation through the Downregulation of the PKA/CREB/MITF Signaling Pathway

Atraric acid (AA) is derived from lichens and is widely used in perfumes for its desirable scent. It has been reported as having anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Hyperpigmentation is the underlying cause of a variety of dermatological diseases that have a significant impact on patients' quality of life and are frequently difficult to treat. This study aimed to explore the inhibitory effects of AA on hyperpigmentation in vitro and in vivo and its potential molecular mechanisms. The cytological results revealed that at a dose of 250 μM, AA may reduce melanin content and tyrosinase levels without causing cytotoxicity. Furthermore, the expression of melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R), phosphorylated protein kinase A (pPKA) and phosphorylated cAMP response element binding protein (pCREB) were downregulated in AA-administrated cells. In vivo, histological analysis showed that AA could inhibit melanin production and tyrosinase activity, and 3% AA had the best activity, with almost no side effects. Furthermore, the results of Western blot analysis and RT-PCR suggested that AA may suppress the mRNA transcription of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein and tyrosine protease by decreasing the expression of MC1R, consequently decreasing the phosphorylation of PKA and CREB. Finally, the MC1R inhibitor MSG606 verified the hypothesis that AA suppresses melanin formation by downregulating the PKA/CREB/MITF signaling pathway. Taken together, our study offers valuable information for the development of AA as a possible ingredient in skin-lightening cosmeceuticals and hyperpigmentation inhibitors.

Chemical Composition of Impatiens textori Miq. Flower Absolute and Its Potential Wound Repair and Anti-Melanogenesis-Promoting Activities in Skin Cells

Impatiens textori Miq. (ITM; family Balsaminaceae) is a traditional medicinal plant with many biological activities, which include anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-pruritic properties. However, it remains to be determined whether ITM affects biological activities in the skin. Thus, we investigated the effects of ITM flower absolute (ITMFAb) extract on the biological activities of skin, especially those related to skin wound repair and whitening. ITMFAb was extracted with hexane, and its composition was determined through GC/MS. The biological activities of ITMFAb on HaCaT keratinocytes and B16BL6 melanoma cells were analyzed using a water-soluble tetrazolium salt, 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine incorporation, a Boyden chamber, an ELISA, a sprouting assay, and by immunoblotting. These analyses were performed in a range of ITMFAb concentrations that did not inhibit the viability of the cells (HaCaT, ≤400 µg/mL; B16BL6, ≤200 µg/m). Forty components were identified in ITMFAb. ITMFAb stimulated proliferation, migration, sprout outgrowth, and type I and IV collagen synthesis and upregulated the activations of ERK1/2, JNK, p38 MAPK, and AKT in HaCaT cells. In addition, ITMFAb attenuated the serum-induced proliferation of B16BL6 cells. ITMFAb inhibited melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, and expressions of MITF and tyrosinase in α-MSH-exposed B16BL6 cells. These findings indicate that ITMFAb has beneficial effects on wound repairing and whitening-linked responses in the skin and suggest the potential use of ITMFAb as a natural material for the development of skin wound repair and whitening agents.

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol inhibits melanogenesis via protein kinase A/cAMP response element-binding protein and extracellular signal-regulated kinase-mediated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor downregulation in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (DPHC) is a marine polyphenolic compound derived from brown alga Ishige okamurae. A previously study has suggested that DPHC possesses strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. However, the anti-melanogenesis effect of DPHC has not been reported at cellular level. The objective of the present study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effect of DPHC and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and zebrafish model. DPHC significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content dose-dependently in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. This polyphenolic compound also suppressed the expression of phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) by attenuating phosphorylation of cAMP-dependent protein kinase A, resulting in decreased MITF expression levels. Furthermore, DPHC downregulated MITF protein expression levels by promoting the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase. It also inhibited tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH stimulated B16F10 cells. In in vivo studies using zebrafish, DPHC also markedly inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. These results demonstrate that DPHC can effectively inhibit melanogenesis in melanoma cells in vitro and in zebrafish in vivo, suggesting that DPHC could be applied in fields of pharmaceutical and cosmeceuticals as a skin-whitening agent. Significance of study: The present study showed for the first time that DPHC could inhibit a-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis via PKA/CREB and ERK pathway in melanoma cells. It also could inhibit pigmentation in vivo in a zebrafish model. This evidence suggests that DPHC has potential as a skin whitening agent. Taken together, DPHC could be considered as a novel anti-melanogenic agent to be applied in cosmetic, food, and medical industry.

Protocatechuic Aldehyde Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via PKA/CREB-Associated MITF Downregulation

Protocatechuic aldehyde (PA) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is a potent inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase. However, the molecular mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis activity of PA have not yet been reported. The aim of the current study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of PA and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10). We first predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a molecular docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and PA. These molecular modeling studies calculated a binding energy of -527.42 kcal/mol and indicated that PA interacts with Cu400 and 401, Val283, and His263. Furthermore, PA significantly decreased α-MSH-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. PA also inhibited key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, PA decreased MITF expression levels by inhibiting phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA). These results demonstrate that PA can effectively suppress melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Taken together, our results show that PA could serve as a potential inhibitor of melanogenesis, and hence could be explored as a possible skin-lightening agent.

The anti-melanogenic effects of ellagic acid through induction of autophagy in melanocytes and suppression of UVA-activated α-MSH pathways via Nrf2 activation in keratinocytes

Ellagic acid (EA) is a natural phenol antioxidant in different fruits, vegetables, and nuts. As a copper iron chelator from the tyrosinase enzyme's active site, EA was reported to inhibit melanogenesis in melanocytes. Here, we demonstrated the anti-melanogenic mechanisms of EA through autophagy induction in melanoma B16F10 cells and the role of Nrf2 and UVA (3 J/cm²)-activated α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) pathways in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. In vitro data showed that EA suppressed the tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis by suppressing cAMP-mediated CREB and MITF signaling mechanisms in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. ERK, JNK, and AKT pathways were involved in this EA-regulated MITF downregulation. Notably, EA induced autophagy in B16F10 cells was evidenced from increased LC3-II accumulation, p62/SQSTM1 activation, ATG4B downregulation, acidic vesicular organelle (AVO) formation, PI3K/AKT/mTOR inhibition, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. Interestingly, 3-MA (an autophagy inhibitor) pretreatment or LC3 silencing (siRNA transfection) of B16F10 cells significantly reduced EA-induced anti-melanogenic activity. Besides this, in UVA-irradiated keratinocyte HaCaT cells, EA suppressed ROS production and α-MSH generation. Moreover, EA mediated the activation and nuclear translocation of Nrf2, leading to antioxidant γ-GCLC, HO-1, and NQO-1 protein expression in HaCaT cells. However, Nrf2 knockdown has significantly impaired this effect, and there was an uncontrolled ROS generation following UVA irradiation. JNK, PKC, and ROS pathways were involved in the activation of Nrf2 in HaCaT cells. In vivo experiments using the zebrafish model confirmed that EA inhibited tyrosinase activity and endogenous pigmentation. In conclusion, ellagic acid is an effective skin-whitening agent and might be used as a topical applicant.

Effects of Ganodermanondiol, a New Melanogenesis Inhibitor from the Medicinal Mushroom Ganoderma lucidum

Ganoderma lucidum, a species of the Basidiomycetes class, has been attracting international attention owing to its wide variety of biological activities and great potential as an ingredient in skin care cosmetics including “skin-whitening” products. However, there is little information available on its inhibitory effect against tyrosinase activity. Therefore, the objectives of this study were to investigate the chemical composition of G. lucidum and its inhibitory effects on melanogenesis. We isolated the active compound from G. lucidum using ethanol extraction and ethyl acetate fractionation. In addition, we assayed its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In this study, we identified a bioactive compound, ganodermanondiol, which inhibits the activity and expression of cellular tyrosinase and the expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), thereby decreasing melanin production. Furthermore, ganodermanondiol also affected the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) cascade and cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)-dependent signaling pathway, which are involved in the melanogenesis of B16F10 melanoma cells. The finding that ganodermanondiol from G. lucidum exerts an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase will contribute to the use of this mushroom in the preparation of skin care products in the future.

Variation in Hsp70-1A Expression Contributes to Skin Color Diversity

The wide range in human skin color results from varying levels of the pigment melanin. Genetic mechanisms underlying coloration differences have been explored, but identified genes do not account for all variation seen in the skin color spectrum. Post-transcriptional and post-translational regulation of factors that determine skin color, including melanin synthesis in epidermal melanocytes, melanosome transfer to keratinocytes, and melanosome degradation, is also critical for pigmentation. We therefore investigated proteins that are differentially expressed in melanocytes derived from either white or African American skin. Two-dimensional gel electrophoresis and mass spectrometry demonstrated that heat shock protein 70-1A (Hsp70-1A) protein levels were significantly higher in African American melanocytes compared with white melanocytes. Hsp70-1A expression significantly correlated with levels of tyrosinase, the rate-limiting melanogenic enzyme, consistent with a proposed role for Hsp70 family members in tyrosinase post-translational modification. In addition, pharmacologic inhibition and small interfering RNA-mediated downregulation of Hsp70-1A correlated with pigmentation changes in cultured melanocytes, modified human skin substitutes, and ex vivo skin. Furthermore, Hsp70-1A inhibition led to increased autophagy-mediated melanosome degradation in keratinocytes. Our data thus reveal that epidermal Hsp70-1A contributes to the diversity of skin color by regulating the amount of melanin synthesized in melanocytes and modulating autophagic melanosome degradation in keratinocytes.

Quercetin-3-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)-β-d-glucopyranoside suppresses melanin synthesis by augmenting p38 MAPK and CREB signaling pathways and subsequent cAMP down-regulation in murine melanoma cells

In this study, the effect of purified quercetin-3-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-(1 → 6)-β-d-glucopyranosid (QCGG) on melanogenesis was investigated. QCGG was isolated from the calyx of a traditional Korean medicinal herb, Persimmon (Diospyros kaki). The hypopigmentation effects of QCGG were determined by examination of cellular melanin contents, tyrosinase activity assay, cAMP assay, and Western blotting of α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Our results showed that QCGG inhibited both melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner as well as significantly reduced the expression of melanogenic proteins such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1, tyrosinase-related protein-2, and tyrosinase. Moreover, QCGG inhibited intracellular cAMP levels, cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), and p38 MAPK expression in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Taken together, the suppressive effects of QCGG on melanogenesis may involve down-regulation of MITF and its downstream signaling pathway via phosphorylation of p38 MAPK and CREB along with reduced cAMP levels. These results indicate that QCGG reduced melanin synthesis by reducing expression of tyrosine and tyrosine-related proteins via extracellular signal-related protein kinase (ERK) activation, followed by down-regulation of CREB, p38, and MITF.

Pigmentation and dermal conservative effects of the astonishing algae Sargassum polycystum and Padina tenuis on guinea pigs, human epidermal melanocytes (HEM) and Chang cells

BACKGROUND

The preference for a fairer skin-tone has become a common trend among both men and women around the world. In this study, seaweeds Sargassum polycystum and Padina tenuis were investigated for their in vitro and in vivo potentials in working as skin whitening agents. Seaweed has been used as a revolutionary skin repairing agent in both traditional and modern preparations. The high antioxidant content is one of the prime reasons for its potent action. It has been employed in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine. For centuries, most medical practitioners in the Asian cultures have known seaweed as an organic source of vitamins, minerals, fatty acids like omega-3 and omega-6 and antioxidants. The present objective of the study was to evaluate the potent dermal protective effect of the two seaweeds Sargassum polycystum and Padina tenuis on human cell lines and guinea pigs.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Seaweeds were extracted with ethanol and further fractionated with hexane, ethyl acetate and water. The extracts were tested for mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity, cytotoxicity in human epidermal melanocyte (HEM), and Chang cells. Extracts with potent melanocytotoxicity were formulated into cosmetic cream and tested on guinea pigs in dermal irritation tests and de-pigmentation assessments.

RESULTS

Both Sargassum polycystum and Padina tenuis seaweeds showed significant inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase in the concentration tested. SPEt showed most potent cytotoxicity on HEM (IC50 of 36µg/ml), followed by SPHF (65µg/ml), and PTHF (78.5µg/ml). SPHF and SPEt reduced melanin content in skin of guinea pigs when assessed histologically.

CONCLUSION

SPEt, SPHF and PTHF were able to inhibit HEM proliferation in vitro, with SPHF being most potent and did not cause any dermal irritation in guinea pigs. The results obtained indicate that SPHF is a promising pharmacological or cosmetic agent.

Octaphlorethol A isolated from Ishige foliacea inhibits α-MSH-stimulated induced melanogenesis via ERK pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells

In this study, the potent skin-whitening effects of Octaphlorethol A (OPA) isolated from Ishige foliacea was investigated through inhibitory effect of melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) induced B16F10 melanoma cells. OPA markedly inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner. We also found that OPA decreased microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and TRP-2) protein expressions. Moreover, OPA reduces p38 MAPK protein levels and activates extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-jun N-terminal kinases (JNKs) protein expressions in B16F10 cells. A specific ERK inhibitor PD98059 significantly blocks OPA-inhibited melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity, whereas a p38MAP and JNK inhibitor had no effect. These findings provide evidence demonstrating that the anti-melanogenic effect of OPA is mediated through the activation of ERK signal pathway in B16F10 cells. These results indicate that OPA has the potential to be used as a melanogenesis inhibitor in the food and cosmetics industry.

Autophagy has a significant role in determining skin color by regulating melanosome degradation in keratinocytes

Melanin in the epidermis determines the wide variation in skin color associated with ethnic skin diversity. Ethnic differences exist regarding melanosome loss in keratinocytes, but the mechanisms underlying these differences, and their contribution to the regulation of skin color, remain unclear. Here, we explored the involvement of autophagy in determining skin color by regulating melanosome degradation in keratinocytes. Keratinocytes derived from Caucasian skin exhibit higher autophagic activity than those derived from African American (AA) skin. Furthermore, along with the higher autophagy activity in Caucasian skin-derived keratinocytes compared with AA skin-derived keratinocytes, Caucasian skin-derived keratinocytes were more sensitive to melanosome treatment as shown by their enhanced autophagic activity, which may reflect the substantial mechanisms in the human epidermis owing to the limitations of the models. Melanosome accumulation in keratinocytes was accelerated by treatment with lysosomal inhibitors or with small interfering RNAs specific for autophagy-related proteins, which are essential for autophagy. Furthermore, consistent with the alterations in skin appearance, the melanin levels in human skin cultured ex vivo and in human skin substitutes in vitro were substantially diminished by activators of autophagy and enhanced by the inhibitors. Taken together, our data reveal that autophagy has a pivotal role in skin color determination by regulating melanosome degradation in keratinocytes, and thereby contributes to the ethnic diversity of skin color.

Downregulation of NFAT2 promotes melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells

Nuclear factor of activated T-cells (NFAT) proteins are, calcium-regulated transcription factors, key regulator of stimulation-dependent gene activation. In our microarray analysis for the genes expressed in human black and white hairs, NFAT2 was significantly upregulated in the white hair, compared to the black hair. The aim of this study was to investigate functional role of NFAT2 in melanogenesis. Western blot analysis was performed to investigate the expression of NFAT2 protein in B16 melanoma cells. Our data showed that NFAT2 expression was increased in the hypopigmented B16 cells, while tyrosinase and MITF expression was decreased. To investigate the potential role of NFAT2, the recombinant adenovirus expressing microRNA specific for NFAT2 was transduced into the cultured B16 melanoma cells. Consistently, inhibition of NFAT2 enhanced tyrosinase activity and melanin content. Moreover, cyclosporine A, which is known as a calcineurin inhibitor blocking NFAT activation, enhanced tyrosinase activity and melanin content. These data suggest that NFAT2 may play an important role in regulation of melanogenesis in melanocyte.

Mechanisms of melanogenesis inhibition by propafenone

Melanogenesis is a physiological process that results in the synthesis of melanin pigments, which play a crucial protective role against skin photocarcinogenesis. The present study was conducted to determine the inhibitory effects of propafenone on melanogenesis and to elucidate the molecular events involved in the inhibition of melanogenesis by propafenone. To accomplish this, several experiments were conducted using human epidermal melanocyte cells. The melanin content and cAMP production were evaluated, and western blots for proteins involved in melanogenesis were conducted. The melanin content was significantly inhibited by propafenone in a concentration-dependent manner. To clarify the mechanism of the depigmenting property of propafenone, we examined the involvement of propafenone in cAMP signaling. In the cAMP production assay, the intracellular cAMP level was reduced by propafenone. The level of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein, the upstream transcription factor of tyrosinase, was also reduced by propafenone. In addition, propafenone inhibited the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Taken together, the results of our study show that propafenone inhibits melanogenesis by suppressing cAMP production, which is involved in the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins and suggests that propafenone may be an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation.

Prostaglandin-E2 is produced by adult human epidermal melanocytes in response to UVB in a melanogenesis-independent manner

Excessive ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure induces erythema, mediated in part by prostaglandin-E₂ (PGE₂). While keratinocytes are a major PGE₂ source, epidermal melanocytes (EM) also express PGE₂-production machinery. It is unclear whether EM-produced PGE₂ contributes to UVR-induced skin inflammation, and whether this is correlated with melanogenesis. Epidermal melanocytes were cultured from skin phototype-1 and -4 donors, followed by assessment of PGE₂ production and melanogenesis. Epidermal melanocytes expressed cytoplasmic phospholipase-A₂, cyclooxygenase-1, cytoplasmic prostaglandin-E synthase and microsomal prostaglandin-E synthase-1, -2. Epidermal melanocytes produced PGE₂ under basal conditions, which increased further after arachidonic acid stimulation. Epidermal melanocytes expressed cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) mRNA and a selective COX-2 inhibitor (NS-398) reduced PGE₂ production. Ultraviolet B-induced PGE₂ production was positively correlated with skin phototype-1, despite variability between individual EM donors. By contrast, there was no correlation between PGE₂ production by EM and their melanogenic status. Thus, EM may contribute to UVR-induced erythema, with role of donor skin phototype more important than their melanogenic status.

New constituent from Podocarpus macrophyllus var. macrophyllus shows anti-tyrosinase effect and regulates tyrosinase-related proteins and mRNA in human epidermal melanocytes

A new biflavonoid, 2,3-dihydro-4',4'''-di-O-methylamentoflavone (5), and five known compounds, (-)-catechin (1), quercetin (2), 2,3-dihydrosciadopitysin (3), sciadopitysin (4), and isoginkgetin (6), were isolated from Podocarpus macrophyllus var. macrophyllus (Podocarpaceae). These compounds were evaluated their ability to inhibit cellular tyrosinase activity and for their melanin inhibitory activity in human epidermal melanocytes (HEMn). In the melanin synthesis assay, 2,3-dihydro-4',4'''-di-O-methylamentoflavone (5) showed a potent anti-tyrosinase effect with IC(50)=0.098 mM in HEMn. It also significantly decreased both protein and mRNA levels of the tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) by Western blot and quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) analysis. These findings suggest that the new compound, 2,3-dihydro-4',4'''-di-O-methylamentoflavone (5), is the most active component of P. macrophyllus var. macrophyllus in inhibiting pigmentation and that this inhibition is exerted through inhibition of transcription of the genes encoding TRP2.

Functional analysis of keratinocytes in skin color using a human skin substitute model composed of cells derived from different skin pigmentation types

Skin color is one of the most distinct features in the human race. To assess the mechanisms of skin color variation, human skin substitutes (HSS) were constructed by grafting mixtures of cultured keratinocytes and melanocytes from a combination of donor skin types, together with light skin derived fibroblasts, into chambers inserted onto the back skin of severe combined immunodeficient (SCID) mice. The resulting complexion coloration of the HSS was relatively darker and lighter when dark and light skin derived keratinocytes, respectively, were combined with melanocytes derived from either light or dark skin. The melanin content in the epidermis and the maturation stage of melanosomes in basal keratinocytes were significantly increased in the HSS composed of dark compared to light skin derived keratinocytes. In addition, the ratio of individual/clustered melanosomes in recipient keratinocytes was increased in the former as opposed to the latter HSS. The genetic expression of endothelin-1, proopiomelanocortin, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, GP100, and MART1 were increased in HSS composed of dark vs. light skin derived keratinocytes. These data suggest that our HSS is a promising melanogenic model that demonstrates the role of the keratinocyte in regulating in part both melanogenesis and distribution of transferred melanosomes.

Constituents from the Formosan apple reduce tyrosinase activity in human epidermal melanocytes

Tyrosinase is a copper-containing monooxygenase that catalyzes melanin synthesis in skin melanocytes. Herein, 13 compounds from the Formosan apple (Malus doumeri var. formosana), an indigenous Taiwanese plant, were isolated and identified. The active constituents were identified as 3-hydroxyphloretin (7) and catechol (9); they exhibited potent hydroxyl radical-scavenging (IC(50) values, 0.6 and 1.1 microM) and cellular tyrosinase-reducing activities (IC(50) values, 32 and 22 microM) in human epidermal melanocytes. In addition, we evaluated the level of several tyrosinase-related proteins by Western blot analysis. In contrast to 3-hydroxyphloretin (7), which showed no effect on the level of these proteins, catechol (9) reduced their activity and the expression of the respective genes, as determined by quantitative real-time PCR. In a kinetic analysis of mushroom tyrosinase, 3-hydroxyphloretin (7) was a competitive inhibitor. These two constituents exhibited metal-coordinating interactions with copper ions in a virtual model of molecular docking with human tyrosinase. Thus, 3-hydroxyphloretin (7) and catechol (9) were the most active constituents from the Formosan apple; they exhibited anti-oxidant and tyrosinase reducing activities, suggesting their possible use as cosmetic agents.

Ethnic variation in melanin content and composition in photoexposed and photoprotected human skin

We have examined the quantity and composition of melanin in both photoprotected (volar upper arm) and chronically photoexposed (dorsal forearm) skin from a range of different ethnic skin types including African, Indian, Mexican, Chinese and European. The most lightly pigmented (European, Chinese and Mexican) skin types have approximately half as much epidermal melanin as the most darkly pigmented (African and Indian) skin types. However, the composition of melanin in these lighter skin types is comparatively more enriched with lightly coloured, alkali-soluble melanin components (up to three-fold). Regardless of ethnicity, epidermal melanin content is significantly greater in chronically photoexposed skin than it is in corresponding photoprotected skin (up to two-fold). However, by comparison there is only a modest enrichment of lightly coloured, alkali soluble melanin components in photoprotected skin (up to 1.3-fold). Analysis of melanosomes extracted from the epidermis in these subjects indicates that the proportion of spheroidal melanosomes is low in all skin types examined (<10%). This suggests that in human skin, pheomelanin is a very minor component of epidermal melanin, even in the lightest (European) skin types. Analysis of melanosome size revealed a significant and progressive variation in size with ethnicity: African skin having the largest melanosomes followed in turn by Indian, Mexican, Chinese and European. On the basis of these findings, we propose that variation in skin pigmentation is strongly influenced by both the amount and the composition (or colour) of the melanin in the epidermis. Variation in melanosome size may also play a significant role. However, the data also suggest that in human skin there are subtle differences in the mechanisms associated with the maintenance of constitutive pigmentation and facultative hyperpigmentation, respectively.