Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals

Reliability and Convergent Validity of Endurance Indices Derived from Near-Infrared Spectroscopy and Electromyography during a Bilateral Hanging Task in Amateur Rock Climbers

Background: The ability to hang for a long time before forearm muscle fatigue is a crucial element of successful rock climbing. Electromyography (EMG) and near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) are also useful for measuring hemoglobin oxygenation for determining muscle endurance. In the present study, we aimed to evaluate the reliability and validity of muscle endurance indices derived using EMG and NIRS during a hanging task. Methods: A bilateral hanging task was designed to compare rock climbers and non-climbers in terms of the slopes of changes in the median frequency (MDF) and tissue oxygenation index (TOI) of forearm muscles. Results: A total of 17 participants were included in each of the two groups. The intraclass correlation coefficient (3,1) values derived for the MDF slope, TOI slope, ΔTOI, percentage change in oxygen concentration, and ΔHbt were 0.85, 0.73, 0.65, 0.75, and 0.65, respectively. The MDF slope, TOI slope, and ΔHbt differed significantly between the groups (p < 0.05). The MDF slope, TOI slopes, and ΔHbt were significantly correlated with V-scale levels for climbing (p < 0.05). Conclusions: The satisfactory reliability and observed distinctions between climbers and non-climbers imply that these indices are a valuable tool for assessing muscle endurance.

Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

PURPOSE

The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers.

METHODS

Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF -2 kg, CF -4 kg, and CF -6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles.

RESULTS

CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (-2 kg, -4 kg, and -6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials.

CONCLUSIONS

CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.

Sport climbing performance determinants and functional testing methods: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review is aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels.

METHODS

PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20, 2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible.

RESULTS

74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics.

CONCLUSION

The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.

Strobe training as a visual training method that improves performance in climbing

Introduction

Strobe training is a form of visual training where the athlete has to practice during intermittently dark conditions. Strobe training improves visual, perceptual, and cognitive skills, which will enhance athletic performance. Strobe training can influence multiple training components in climbing: psychological, tactical, physical, and technical training.

Materials and methods

The study was conducted on 17 elite climbers from Romania (10 male and 7 female), representing the entire National Youth Climbing Team. The research group was divided into a control group (n = 8) and an experimental group (n = 9). The used instruments were the Cognitrom battery (for cognitive skills, such as spatial skills and reactivity), the Witty SEM system (for motor-cognitive skills, such as cognitive agility, visual processing speed, and visual memory), and the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) performance-related test battery for climbers (climbing-specific motor skills). The experimental group had 20 strobe training sessions, which took place during one calendar year, as an additional session to their climbing schedule done with their principal trainer. The strobe session was once a week, depending on the periodization of the macrocycle (preparatory, competitional, and transition periods). The control group and the experimental group had similar climbing training sessions during the 1-year macrocycle in terms of intensity and volume of their training.

Results

Strobe training improved on-sight performance (d = 0.38) and red-point performance (d = 0.36). Strobe training improved the majority of cognitive skills [all spatial skills (d = 1.27 for mental image transformation; d = 1.14 for spatial orientation; d = 1.59 for image generation) and simple reaction time (d = 0.99)]. Strobe training improved all motor-cognitive skills (d = 0.16 for visual memory; d = 1.96 for visual memory errors; d = 1.39 for visual processing speed; d = 1.94 for visual processing errors; d = 1.30 for cognitive agility). Strobe training improved many climbing-specific parameters (flexibility and upper body strength) (d = 0.44 and d = 0.47 for flexibility parameters; d = 0.50 to 0.73 for upper body strength parameters).

Discussion

Strobe training is an effective training method for enhancing performance that should be used on more experienced climbers. It acts more on spatial skills, rather than on reactivity skills, developing the visual-motor coordination system. Strobe training has greater effects on climbers aged below 16 years, as youth athletes rely more on visual input compared to adults. The improvement in climbing-specific variables was due to the additional climbing session done weekly. Strobe training acts more on the cognitive component of training than on the motor component of training in climbing.

Myoelectric manifestations of fatigue of the finger flexor muscles and endurance capacity in experienced versus intermediate climbers during suspension tasks

Climbing is a physically demanding discipline, placing significant loads on the finger flexors. Notwithstanding the documented greater endurance capacity of experienced climbers, the mechanisms explaining these training-induced adaptations remain unknown. We therefore investigate whether two non-competing strategies - muscle adaptation and alternate muscle recruitment - may explain the disparity in endurance capacity in participants with different climbing experience. We analysed high-density surface electromyograms (EMGs) from 38 Advanced and Intermediate climbers, during suspension exercises over three different depths (15, 20, 30 mm) using a half-crimp grip position. From the spatial distribution of changes in MeDian Frequency and Root Mean Square values until failure, we assessed how much and how diffusely the myoelectric manifestations of fatigue took place. Advanced climbers exhibited greater endurance, as evidenced by significantly longer failure time (p < 0.009) and lower changes in MDF values (p < 0.013) for the three grip depths. These changes were confined to a small skin region (nearly 25% of the grid size), centred at variable locations across participants. Moreover, lower MDF changes were significantly associated with longer suspension times. Collectively, our results suggest that muscle adaptation rather than load sharing between and within muscles is more likely to explain the improved endurance in experienced climbers.

Sensorimotor adaptation of locomotor synergies to gravitational constraint

This study investigates the impact of gravity on lower limb muscle coordination during pedaling. It explores how pedaling behaviors, kinematics, and muscle activation patterns dynamically adapts to changes in gravity and resistance levels. The experiment was conducted in parabolic flights, simulating microgravity, hypergravity (1.8 g), and normogravity conditions. Participants pedaled on an ergometer with varying resistances. The goal was to identify potential changes in muscle synergies and activation strategies under different gravitational contexts. Results indicate that pedaling cadence adjusted naturally in response to both gravity and resistance changes. Cadence increased with higher gravity and decreased with higher resistance levels. Muscular activities were characterized by two synergies representing pull and push phases of pedaling. The timing of synergy activation was influenced by gravity, with a delay in activation observed in microgravity compared to other conditions. Despite these changes, the velocity profile of pedaling remained stable across gravity conditions. The findings strongly suggest that the CNS dynamically manages the shift in body weight by finely tuning muscular coordination, thereby ensuring the maintenance of a stable motor output. Furthermore, electromyography analysis suggest that neuromuscular discharge frequencies were not affected by gravity changes. This implies that the types of muscle fibers recruited during exercise in modified gravity are similar to those used in normogravity. This research has contributed to a better understanding of how the human locomotor system responds to varying gravitational conditions, shedding light on the potential mechanisms underlying astronauts' gait changes upon returning from space missions.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers.

METHODS

A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape.

RESULTS

The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms.

CONCLUSION

Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance

Purpose: In climbing, exceptional levels of fingertip strength across different holds and body positions are considered essential for performance. There is no commonly agreed upon way to measure such "grip strength variability." Furthermore, the accurate and reliable monitoring of strength is necessary to achieve safe, progressive improvement in strength. Therefore, this study aimed to develop reliability and criterion validity for assessment of grip strength across multiple holds and body positions. Methods: Twenty-two advanced toelite climbers (age = 28.5 ± 8.6 years) performed maximal voluntary isometric contractions on two occasions (for test-retest reliability). Conditions included two hold types (edge and sloper) tested in two postures (elbow flexion [90°] and self-preferred). Climbing performance was determined on two "difficulty" routes (difficulty increases with each hold): one route composed of only edges and another only of slopers. Results: Test-retest reliability was high (ICC between 0.94-0.99). Significant positive correlations were observed for the forces produced on the sloper test and climbing distance on the sloper route (r = 0.512,p < .05), and for the forces produced on the edge test and climbing distance on the edge route (ρ = 0.579, p < .01). Conclusion: These findings support reliability and validity of the method used to measure grip strength variability with different holds and body positions and suggest that improving strength across different grasping types supports adaptive climbing performance.

Exploring forearm muscle coordination and training applications of various grip positions during maximal isometric finger dead-hangs in rock climbers

Background

Maximal isometric finger dead-hangs are used in rock climbing to strengthen finger flexors. Although various grip positions are often used when performing finger dead-hangs, little is known regarding how these grip positions can affect forearm muscle activity. Understanding how forearm muscles are recruited during dead-hangs could help foreseeing the potential for training of different grip positions. The aim of the present study was to explore the training applications of the various grip positions by comparing the activity of forearm muscles during maximal dead-hangs in rock climbers.

Materials & Methods

Twenty-five climbers performed maximal dead-hangs in three climbing-specific grip positions: CRIMP, SLOPE, and SLOPER. We recorded the maximal loads used and the sEMG of the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS), the flexor carpi radialis (FCR), and the extensor digitorum communis (EDC). Individual and global (sum of all muscles) root mean square (RMS) and neuromuscular efficiency (NME) values were computed. Repeated measures analysis were performed to assess grip differences (p < 0.05).

Results

SLOPER showed the largest maximal load values among the three grip positions (p < 0.001, d ≥ 2.772). Greater global (p ≤ 0.044, d ≥ 0.268), FDS (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.277), and FCR (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.049) activity was observed for the SLOPER compared to CRIMP and SLOPE, while EDC (p ≤ 0.005, d ≥ 0.505) showed lower activity in the SLOPER compared to the other two grip positions. SLOPER presented the highest global (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.629), FDP (p < 0.001, d ≥ 0.777), FDS (only CRIMP vs SLOPER: p < 0.001, d = 0.140), and EDC NME (p < 0.001, d ≥ 1.194). The CRIMP showed greater FDS activity (p = 0.001, d = 0.386) and lower NME (p = 0.003, d = 0.125) compared to SLOPE.

Conclusions

These results revealed that, under maximum intensity conditions, SLOPER could stimulate the FDS and FCR better than the other grip positions at the expense of using greater loads. Similarly, maximum CRIMP dead-hang could better stimulate the FDS than the SLOPE, even when using similar loads.

Body Composition, Anthropometric Parameters, and Strength-Endurance Characteristics of Sport Climbers: A Systematic Review

ABSTRACT

Ginszt, M, Saito, M, Zięba, E, Majcher, P, and Kikuchi, N. Body composition, anthropometric parameters, and strength-endurance characteristics of sport climbers: a systematic review. J Strength Cond Res XX(X): 000-000, 2023-Sport climbing was selected to be part of the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo 2021 with 3 subdisciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. The nature of physical effort while speed climbing, lead climbing, and bouldering performance is different. This literature review aimed to describe differences between body composition, anthropometric parameters, and upper-limb strength-endurance variables between sport climbers with different ability levels and nonclimbers. The following databases were searched: PubMed and Scopus. The following keywords were used: "sport climbing," "rock climbing," "lead climbing," and "bouldering." Articles were considered from January 2000 to October 2021 if they concerned at least one of the following parameters: body composition (mass, body mass index, body fat, lean muscle mass, bone mineral density), anthropometric parameters (height, ape index), muscle strength (MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength), and muscle endurance (force time integral, pull-ups). A review shows that body mass and body fat content were lower in the sport climbers compared with controls and in elite sport climbers compared with those less advanced. Sport climbers presented higher values of MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength, and force time integral parameter than control subjects. Significantly higher MVC values in half-crimp grip were observed in elite sport climbers than in advanced athletes. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index. The abovementioned parameters may be a key factor in elite sport climbing performance.

Persistent Unilateral Force Production Deficits Following Hand Injury in Experienced Climbers: A Reliability and Retrospective Injury Study

INTRODUCTION

In climbing, research is needed to guide clinical and training advice regarding strength differences between hands. The objectives of this study were to establish test-retest reliability of a field-based apparatus measuring sport-specific unilateral isometric hand strength and to investigate whether these measures detect between-hand differences in climbers with and without a history of unilateral hand injury.

METHODS

A reliability and case-control injury study was carried out. Seventeen intermediate-advanced climbers without and 15 intermediate-advanced climbers with previous unilateral hand injury participated. Unilateral isometric fingertip flexor strength was assessed during maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) and peak rate of force development (RFD) tests in full-crimp overhead position. The magnitude of within-group between-hand differences was calculated using a generalized estimating equation to evaluate if prior injury was associated with lower MVC and RFD outcomes and whether hand dominance influenced the magnitude of these effects. The control group was assessed 1 wk later to determine intraclass correlation coefficients (ICCs) for all measures.

RESULTS

The MVC (ICC 0.91-0.93) and the RFD (ICC 0.92-0.83) tests demonstrated moderate-to-high reliability. When accounting for handedness, those with prior injury showed 7% (P=0.004) reduced MVC and 13% (P=0.008) reduced RFD in the injured hand. The nondominant hand was also significantly weaker in MVC (11%, P<0.001) and RFD (12%, P=0.02) outcomes. For uninjured climbers, MVC and RFD were not significantly higher in the dominant hand (differing by 4% and 5%, respectively).

CONCLUSIONS

Previous climbing injury was associated with persistent weakness in the injured limb and exacerbated handedness effects. Therefore, recommendations for rehabilitation should be considered.

Optimization of an Intermittent Finger Endurance Test for Climbers Regarding Gender and Deviation in Force and Pulling Time

Performance diagnostics of finger strength is very relevant in climbing. The aim of our study was to find modalities for an intermittent finger flexor muscle endurance test that optimize the correlation of test performance with lead climbing performance. Twenty-seven female and 25 male climbers pulled with 60% MVC and a work-to-rest ratio of 7:2 s on a fingerboard until fatigue. The highest correlations, R = 0.429, were found for women when 9% deviation in the required force and 1 s deviation in the required pulling time was tolerated. For men, the optimum was reached with the same time deviation and a force deviation of 6%, R = 0.691. Together with maximum finger strength the repetitions explained 31.5% of the variance of climbing ability in women and 46.3% in men. Consequences from our results are to tolerate at least 7% force deviation for women and 5% for men and to terminate the finger endurance test quickly after the force falls below the threshold.

Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength, Stamina, and Endurance

Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training intensities (maximal, high submaximal, and low submaximal intensities) on the fingers' physiological capabilities using a hangboard fitted with force sensors. In total, 54 experienced climbers (13 women and 41 men) were randomly divided into four groups, with each group following different training intensity programs: maximal strength program performed at 100% of the maximal finger strength (MFS; F100), intermittent repetitions at 80% MFS (F80), intermittent repetitions at 60% MFS (F60), and no specific training (control group). Participants trained on a 12 mm-deep hold, twice a week for 4 weeks. The MFS, stamina, and endurance levels were evaluated using force data before and after training. Results showed similar values in the control group between pre- and post-tests. A significantly improved MFS was observed in the F100 and F80 groups but not in the F60 group. Significantly higher stamina and endurance measurements were observed in the F80 and F60 groups but not in the F100 group. These results showed that a 4-week hangboard training enabled increasing MFS, stamina and endurance, and that different improvements occurred according to the level of training intensity. Interestingly, the different intensities allow improvements in the targeted capacity (e.g., stamina for the F80 group) but also in the adjacent physiological capabilities (e.g., MFS for the F80 group).

Tests and Procedures for Measuring Endurance, Strength, and Power in Climbing—A Mini-Review

The interest in climbing is rapidly growing among professional and recreational athletes and will for the first time be included in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. The sport has also gained increased scientific attention in the past decades. Still, recommendations for testing procedures to predict climbing performance and measure training effects are limited. Therefore, the aim of this mini-review is to provide an overview of the climbing-specific tests, procedures and outcomes used to examine climbing performance. The available literature presents a variety of tests and procedures. While the reliability of some tests has been examined, measures of validity are scarce, especially for climbing-specific endurance tests. Moreover, considering the possible combinations of climbing performance levels, disciplines, and tests, substantial gaps in the literature exist. Vague descriptions of the participants in many studies (e.g., not specifying preferred discipline, performance level, experience, and regular climbing and training volume) further limit the current knowledge and challenge comparisons across studies. Regarding contraction types, dynamic strength- and power-tests are underrepresented in the literature compared to isometric tests. Studies exploring and reporting the validity and reliability of climbing-specific tests are warranted, and researchers should strive to provide a detailed description of the study populations in future research.

Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport climbers?

BACKGROUND

The ability to generate high levels of force with the finger flexor muscles and sustain it for the maximum time was reported as a climbing performance factor. This study aimed to answer the question of which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in non-elite and elite rock climbers: 6, 8, 10, 12 or 14 mm.

METHODS

Thirty-six climbers (10 female, 26 male; 6b-8c redpoint level) were assessed twice, one week apart.

RESULTS

Systematic bias (95 % limits of agreements) was -1.84 (6.31) for HT6, -0.26 (8.83) for HT8, -1.30 (8.72) for HT10, -4.37 (9.57) for HT12, and -2.94 (9.53) for HT14 at non-elite group (all P values > 0.05 but HT12 and HT14). Among elite group, -1.38 (7.58), 0.68 (12.09), -2.20 (13.35), -0.49 (9.80) and 0.73 (10.44) was found (all P > 0.05) for HT6, HT8, HT10, HT12 and HT14, respectively. No patterns of heteroscedasticity were observed for any of the trials for non-elite and elite climbers.

SIGNIFICANCE

Among all edge depths analysed, 8 mm seemed to be the most accurate edge to evaluate hanging time. Alternatively, a 10 mm hold depth could be recommended for climbers from 6b to 7c, and 12 mm for climbers from 7c+ to 8c.

MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers

In the present study, we analysed the validity and reliability of a new tool designed to assist the measurement of maximal upper-limb strength in rock climbers in a specific way, named MBboard. The MBboard consists of an artificial small climbing hold affixed to a wooden board, which is connected to any cable-motion strength equipment to determine the maximum dynamic strength (MBboard-1RM). Ten male rock climbers (Rock Climbing Group, RCG = 10) and ten physically active men (Control Group, CG = 10) performed, on three separate occasions, a familiarization session with procedures adopted during MBboard-1RM testing and two experimental trials (i.e., test and retest) to determine the construct validity and reliability of the MBboard during unilateral seated cable row exercise. In the first trial, the electromyographic activity (EMG) was recorded from the flexor digitorum superficialis. The self-reported climbing ability was also recorded. The RCG had superior performance (i.e. 37.5%) and EMG activity (i.e. 51%) in MBboard-1RM testing when compared with the CG (p < 0.05). There was a significant correlation between the MBboard-1RM results and climbing ability (r > 0.72, p < 0.05). Intraclass correlation coefficient analysis revealed good reliability within trials (ICC > 0.79, p < 0.05). These findings suggest that the MBboard is a valid and reliable tool to assess rock climbing-specific maximal strength. The validity of MBboard-1RM appears to be related to the finger flexor muscles activation, probably reflecting the specific adaptations resulting from long-term practice of this sport discipline.

Recovery and Fatigue Behavior of Forearm Muscles during a Repetitive Power Grip Gesture in Racing Motorcycle Riders

Despite a reduction in the maximal voluntary isometric contraction (MVC_isom) observed systematically in intermittent fatigue protocols (IFP), decrements of the median frequency, assessed by surface electromyography (sEMG), has not been consistently verified. This study aimed to determine whether recovery periods of 60 s were too long to induce a reduction in the normalized median frequency (MF_EMG) of the flexor digitorum superficialis and carpi radialis muscles. Twenty-one road racing motorcycle riders performed an IFP that simulated the posture and braking gesture on a motorcycle. The MVC_isom was reduced by 53% (p < 0.001). A positive and significant relationship (p < 0.005) was found between MF_EMG and duration of the fatiguing task when 5 s contractions at 30% MVC_isom were interspersed by 5 s recovery in both muscles. In contrast, no relationship was found (p > 0.133) when 10 s contractions at 50% MVC were interspersed by 1 min recovery. Comparative analysis of variance (ANOVA) confirmed a decrement of MF_EMG in the IFP at 30% MVC_isom including short recovery periods with a duty cycle of 100% (5 s/5 s = 1), whereas no differences were observed in the IFP at 50% MVC_isom and longer recovery periods, with a duty cycle of 16%. These findings show that recovery periods during IFP are more relevant than the intensity of MVC_isom. Thus, we recommend the use of short recovery periods between 5 and 10 s after submaximal muscle contractions for specific forearm muscle training and testing purposes in motorcycle riders.

Long-term evolution of cartilage abnormalities and osteophytes in the fingers of elite sport climbers: A cross-sectional 10-year follow-up study

The sequelae of high mechanical stress to the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) and distal interphalangeal (DIP) joints of the fingers in elite sport climbers and its contribution to the development of osteoarthritis are still relatively unknown. The purpose of this study was to investigate the evolution of cartilage abnormalities of the PIP and DIP joints, as well as the progress of osteophytes, in the fingers of elite sport climbers with a minimum of 25 years of climbing history over the time period of the last 10 years. Moreover, their actual cartilage abnormalities and osteophyte occurrence were compared to non-climbing age-matched controls. Thirty-one elite male sport climbers and 15 male non-climbers underwent a sonographic examination of the PIP and DIP joint cartilage and osteophyte thickness in the frontal and sagittal plane of digits II-V of both hands. The same cohort had already been measured with an identical protocol 10 years earlier (follow-up rate of 100%). Compared to the baseline assessment 10 years earlier, the cartilage thickness of sport climbers has significantly decreased; however, it was still greater than in age-matched controls. Moreover, sport climbers showed significantly higher relative frequencies of osteophyte occurrence than non-climbers (all fingers and joints). Nevertheless, despite a substantial (and compared to baseline a further increased) occurrence of osteophytes in elite sport climbers, there was no association between the radiological signs of osteoarthritis and pain within the last six months prior the follow-up investigation.Highlights Long-term elite climbers show thicker cartilage and occurrence of Osteophytes in their fingers (especially Digit III) compared to controls already early in their career.Later occurrence of osteophytes increases (especially Digit II and IV) and cartilage decreases but is still thicker compared to controls. No association between those findings and pain was found.

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107-1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

PURPOSE

Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ([Formula: see text]O₂) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic ̇[Formula: see text]O₂ and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability.

METHODS

Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic [Formula: see text]O₂ and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation (StO₂) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively.

RESULTS

Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 ± 8% and 88 ± 8% [Formula: see text]O₂ and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R² = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean [Formula: see text]O₂ and StO₂ from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability.

CONCLUSIONS

Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Forearm isometric fatigue-resistance is enhanced in rock climbers compared to power lifters and aerobically-trained athletes

BACKGROUND

Rock climbers are characterized by enhanced forearm fatigue resistance. This study compared the forearm isometric force of rock climbers (RC), strength-matched power lifters (PL) and aerobically trained (AT) athletes to determine the contribution of muscle oxygen desaturation during ischemia.

METHODS

Aerobically trained athletes (N.=6, 23±1 years, 77±1 kg), power lifters (N.=7, 24±1 years, 80±3 kg) and rock climbers (N.=8, 25±2 years, 74±2 kg) took part in a controlled forearm ischemic occlusion (5 min) assessment using near infrared spectroscopy. In addition, three fatigue protocols were completed: protocol 1, sustained maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until exhaustion; protocol 2, sustained 40% MVC for 3 mins duration; protocol 3, an intermittent 40% MVC (5-s contraction, 5-s recovery) for a duration of 3 mins. Forearm contractile fatigue was quantified as the reduction in MVC.

RESULTS

MVC was equivalent between groups (P>0.05). Sustained MVC force (time to decline 50% MVC) was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 35±5, PL: 46±6, RC: 54±4 s, P<0.05) and both AT and PL for sustained 40% MVC (AT: 56±9, RT: 62±8, RC: 87±7 s, P<0.05). Reduction in MVC was less in RC post intermittent 40% contractions (P<0.05). Oxygen desaturation half-time was longer in the RC versus AT (AT: 65±9, RT: 86±7, RC: 99±7 s, P<0.05) and this was associated with time to 50% MVC (P<0.05, r²=0.53) and time to 40% MVC task failure (P<0.05, r²=0.32).

CONCLUSIONS

Rock climbers' enhanced isometric fatigue-resistance and ability to maintain MVC was associated with a lower oxygen consumption of the forearm flexors during the ischemic state. This suggests a training adaptation involving intracellular oxygen consumption.

Action capability constrains visuo-motor complexity during planning and performance in on-sight climbing

The capability to adapt to changing conditions is crucial for safe and successful performance in physical activities and sports. According to the affordance‐based control perspective, individuals act in such a way as to take into account the limits of their capability to act. However, it is not clear how strength interacts with skill in shaping performer‐environment interactions. We, therefore, determined whether fingertip strength influences patterns of gaze and climbing behavior on new routes of ever‐increasing difficulty. We expected that comparatively weaker climbers would show less complex behavior because of an inability to perceive and act. Stronger climbers would show more complex visuo‐motor behavior because more opportunities for action remain, even as route difficulty increases. For very strong climbers the route would not be challenging enough, and less complex patterns suffice. Twenty climbers, ranging from lower grade to elite level participated. Maximum fingertip strength was obtained. Participants previewed and then climbed two separate 3 m long traverses, gradually decreasing in edge depth. Gaze and hip positions were collected for subsequent computation of gaze transition entropy (during preview) and hip displacement entropy (during climbing). Data revealed statistically significant curvilinear relationships between both fingertip strength and gaze transition entropy, and fingertip strength, and hip displacement entropy. Visuo‐motor complexity is scaled by how close the individual must act relative to boundaries of what the environment affords and does not afford for action given the individual constraints. Future research should examine in greater detail relationships between action capabilities and functional movement variability.

Dietary Intake, Body Composition and Iron Status in Experienced and Elite Climbers

Climbing has developed into a popular recreational and elite sport, evidenced by a growing number of licenced competition athletes, and the acceptance into the Olympic calendar for Tokyo 2020. A nutritional assessment, including the evaluation of anthropometric and biochemical data, has not been previously reported in climbing athletes. Therefore, the aim of this study was to assess the dietary intake, body composition, and iron status in experienced climbers, across a range of performance levels. Forty climbers (n = 20 male, n = 20 female; 8.8 ± 6.6 years' experience; BMI 21.6 ± 1.7) aged 18–46 (30.3 ± 6.7 years) participated in the study. Dietary intake was recorded in a 3-days diet diary. Body composition was assessed using a skinfold profile and iron status via blood markers. Mean energy intake was 2154.6 ± 450 kcal·day⁻¹, with 30% of male climbers and 5% of female climbers failing to meet predicted resting metabolic rate. Furthermore, 77.5% of participants failed to meet a predicted energy requirement to support a “moderate” training programme. There were no significant correlations between daily energy intake and exercise volume. Mean intake of carbohydrate, protein and fat was 3.7 ± 0.9 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, 1.6 ± 0.5 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, and 1.4 ± 0.4 g·kg⁻¹·day⁻¹, respectively, with no significant difference between genders. Approximately 17% of males (n =3) and 45% of females (n = 9) had a sub-optimal iron status. Thirty percent of females met the classification criteria for iron deficiency. Mean serum ferritin was significantly greater in males, compared to females (102.7 ± 54.9 vs. 51.4 ± 24.2 μg·L⁻¹; p ≤ 0.01) and significantly lower in vegan/vegetarians vs. omnivores, in female climbers only (33.2 ± 14.8 vs. 57.5 ± 24 μg·L⁻¹; p = 0.05). No significant differences were observed between climbing ability groups (intermediate-advanced/elite-higher elite) for body composition, dietary intake, or iron status, for males or females. These findings suggest that experienced climbers are at risk of energy restriction and iron deficiency, therefore, routine assessment of nutritional status is warranted. Future research should consider iron status in relation to energy availability and investigate additional factors which may predispose this population to iron deficiency, as well as the risk of relative energy deficiency in sport (RED-S).

Joint Mobility Protection during the Developmental Age among Free Climbing Practitioners: A Pilot Study

Sport-climbing popularity increased intensely over the past years. Particularly, children's and adolescents' interest therein is constantly growing. Despite a large effort in preventing injuries and muscle overloads, a fine-tuned training for each sensitive phase of child development is still needed. The objective of the study was to evaluate an innovative training program aimed at the preservation of joint mobility during the developmental age. This article relies on the results of a steady training program allowing to retain joints integrity among the practice of sport climbing in children. Joint mobility changes have been monitored before and after a one-year training program in fifteen subjects aged between 8 and 18 years. Subjects were divided into three groups depending on age (Turgor Secundus, Proceritas Secunda and Turgor Tertius). The motor tests administered were the sit-and-reach test, coxo-femoral mobility test and scapula-humeral mobility test. Our results showed that one-year training improved joint mobility at each analyzed phase, suggesting that this training program could improve mobility and flexibility. Given the importance of joint mobility preservation for discipline-related injuries prevention and eventually recovering, it is essential to provide a specific training program as a route to approach sport climbing, and even more importantly, at an early age. This work represents a preliminary study in order to demonstrate both efficacy on the joint mobility and the requirement of our playful work to support the global sport-climbing workout.

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

Albeit differences in climbing-specific strength of the forearms have been demonstrated between lead and boulder climbers, little is known about the potential differences in force and power output of the upper body pulling-apparatus between disciplines. The aim of this study was to compare the climbing-specific upper-body strength and finger flexor endurance between lead and boulder climbers, as well as to examine the relative utilization of force when testing on a ledge hold compared to a jug hold. Sixteen boulder climbers (red-point climbing grade 17.9 ± 3.3) and fifteen lead climbers (red-point climbing grade 20.5 ± 3.5) performing on an advanced level volunteered for the study. Peak force, average force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during an isometric pull-up, average velocity in dynamic pull-up, and finger flexor endurance in an intermittent test to fatigue. The isometric pull-up was performed on a ledge hold (high finger strength requirements) and on a jug hold (very low finger strength requirements). Boulder climbers demonstrated a higher maximal and explosive strength in all strength and power measurements (26.2–52.9%, ES = 0.90–1.12, p = 0.006–0.023), whereas the finger flexor endurance test showed no significant difference between the groups (p = 0.088). Both groups were able to utilize 57–69% of peak force, average force and RFD in the ledge condition compared to the jug condition, but the relative utilization was not different between the groups (p = 0.290–0.996). In conclusion, boulder climbers were stronger and more explosive compared to lead climbers, whereas no differences in finger flexor endurance were observed. Performing climbing-specific tests on a smaller hold appears to limit the force and power output equally between the two groups.

Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. However, little is known about the best method to improve grip endurance in sport climbing regarding maximal or intermittent dead-hang training methods. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of three 8-week finger training programs using dead-hangs (maximal, intermittent, and a combination) on grip endurance. Twenty-six advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability) were randomly distributed among three groups: maximal dead-hangs with maximal added weight on an 18 mm edge followed by MaxHangs on minimal edge depth; intermittent dead-hangs using the minimal edge depth, and a combination of both. The grip endurance gains and effect size were 34% and 0.6, respectively, for the group following maximal dead-hang training, 45% and 1, respectively, for the group following intermittent dead-hang training, and 7% and 0.1, respectively, for the group applying the combination of both training methods. Grip endurance increased significantly after 4 weeks in the group performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.004) and after 8 weeks in both groups performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.002) and MaxHangs (p = 0.010). The results suggest that the intermittent dead-hangs training method seems to be more effective for grip endurance development after eight week application in advanced sport-climbers. However, both methods, maximal and intermittent dead-hangs, could be alternated for longer training periods.

Skill level and forearm muscle fatigue effects on ball speed in tennis serve

This study determined the effect of skill level (ITN 3 vs. ITN 8) on the tennis serve biomechanics and analysed the impact of forearm fatigue on dominant arm mechanisms between the two groups (expert vs. non-expert tennis players). The motion capture system with 17 reflective markers attached on anatomic landmarks of the participant was used for data collection. A total of 12 expert and 11 non-expert tennis players performed the required serving tasks. The ball speed of the expert group was significantly faster than that of the non-expert group during non-fatigued and fatigued states (p < 0.001). The wrist radial/ulnar deviation angle at impact was significantly different between non-fatigued and fatigued states for top-spin (p = 0.030) and flat serves (p = 0.018). A significant increase in extensor carpi ulnaris (ECU) and extensor carpi radialis (ECR) muscle activity during extension (p < 0.010) was observed, with that of the ECU being an ulnar deviation. Both the ECU and ECR might contribute to wrist joint and racket handle stability for the coming acceleration and impact while fatigue occurs. Fatigue might substantially influence non-experts' dominant forearms because of the significantly different elbow joint angles and dominant arm syndromes they displayed as compared with the experts.

Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action

Pull-ups are often used by sport-climbers and other athletes to train their arm and back muscle capabilities. Sport-climbers use different types of holds to reinforce finger strength concomitantly. However, the effect of grip types on pull-up performance had not previously been investigated. A vertical force platform sensor measured the force exerted by climbers when performing pull-ups under six different grip conditions (gym-bar, large climbing hold, and four small climbing holds: 22mm, 18mm, 14mm, and 10mm). The electromyography of finger flexors and extensor muscles were recorded simultaneously. The maximal arm power and summed mechanical work were computed. The results revealed that the number of pull-ups, maximal power, and summed mechanical work decreased significantly with the size of the climbing hold used, even if no differences were found between a large climbing hold and a gym-bar. Electromyography of the forearm muscles revealed that the use of a climbing hold generated finger flexor fatigue and that the level of cocontraction was impacted by the different segment coordination strategies generated during the pull-ups. These findings are likely to be useful for quantifying training loads more accurately and designing training exercises and programs.

A novel experimental design for the measurement of metacarpal bone loading and deformation and fingertip force

Background

Musculoskeletal and finite element modelling are often used to predict joint loading and bone strength within the human hand, but there is a lack of in vitro evidence of the force and strain experienced by hand bones.

Methods

This study presents a novel experimental setup that allows the positioning of a cadaveric digit in a variety of postures with the measurement of force and strain experienced by the third metacarpal. The setup allows for the measurement of fingertip force as well. We tested this experimental setup using three cadaveric human third digits in which the flexor tendons were loaded in two tendon pathways: (1) parallel to the metacarpal bone shaft, with bowstringing; (2) a semi-physiological condition in which the tendons were positioned closer to the bone shaft.

Results

There is substantial variation in metacarpal net force, metacarpal strain and fingertip force between the two tendon pathways. The net force acting on the metacarpal bone is oriented palmarly in the parallel tendon condition, causing tension along the dorsum of the metacarpal shaft, while the force increases and is oriented dorsally in the semi-physiological condition, causing compression of the dorsal metacarpal shaft. Fingertip force is also greater in the semi-physiological condition, implying a more efficient grip function. Inter-individual variation is observed in the radioulnar orientation of the force experienced by the metacarpal bone, the fingertip force, and the strain patterns on the metacarpal shaft.

Conclusion

This study demonstrates a new method for measuring force and strain experienced by the metacarpal, and fingertip force in cadaveric digits that can, in turn, inform computation models. Inter-individual variation in loads experienced by the third digit suggest that there are differences in joint contact and/or internal bone structure across individuals that are important to consider in clinical and evolutionary contexts.

Modification of a three-compartment muscle fatigue model to predict peak torque decline during intermittent tasks

This study aimed to test whether adding a rest recovery parameter, r, to the analytical three-compartment controller (3CC) fatigue model (Xia and Frey Law, 2008) will improve fatigue estimates during intermittent contractions. The 3CC muscle fatigue model uses differential equations to predict the flow of muscle between three muscle states: Resting (MR), Active (MA), and Fatigued (MF). This model uses a feedback controller to match the active state to target loads and two joint-specific parameters: F, fatigue rate controlling flow from active to fatigued compartments) and R, the recovery rate controlling flow from the fatigued to the resting compartments. This model does well to predict intensity-endurance time curves for sustained isometric tasks. However, previous studies find when rest intervals are present that the model over predicts fatigue. Intermittent rest periods would allow for the occurrence of subsequent reactive vasodilation and post-contraction hyperemia. We hypothesize a modified 3CC-r fatigue model will improve predictions of force decay during intermittent contractions with the addition of a rest recovery parameter, r, to augment recovery during rest intervals, representing muscle re-perfusion. A meta-analysis compiling intermittent fatigue data from 63 publications reporting decline in peak torque (% torque decline) were used for comparison. The original model over-predicted fatigue development from 19 to 29% torque decline; the addition of a rest multiplier significantly improved fatigue estimates to 6-10% torque decline. We conclude the addition of a rest multiplier to the three-compartment controller fatigue model provides a physiologically consistent modification for tasks involving rest intervals, resulting in improved estimates of muscle fatigue.

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

PURPOSE

An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability.

METHODS

To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF.

RESULTS

The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r² = .48 and r² = .42 for sport climbing; r² = .66 and r² = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r² = .42) and bouldering ability (r² = .58).

CONCLUSION

Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

Feasibility of a New Pulley Repair: A Cadaver Study

PURPOSE

In this study, the feasibility of a new pulley reconstruction in which the tendon graft is pulled through a tunnel in the proximal phalanx, was evaluated using a cadaver model, with particular attention paid to the weakening of the bone structure by the drill hole.

METHODS

Nine fingers from 6 cadaver hands with intact pulley systems were compared with 9 fingers from 6 cadaver hands with missing A2 to A4 pulleys but that included a repair using the new surgical technique. Each finger was fixed to an isokinetic loading device. The forces in the flexor tendons were recorded in each finger using a force transducer.

RESULTS

The forces recorded in the flexor tendons of the control group were significantly higher than in the reconstructed fingers. The most common event in the reconstructed fingers was graft failure. A fracture of the bone due to the drill hole was not observed.

CONCLUSIONS

The new pulley reconstruction could represent an alternative to existing reconstructive techniques. The cause for the higher forces recorded in the control group could be attributed to sutures used in the operated fingers.

CLINICAL RELEVANCE

The new pulley reconstruction method may enable reduced extensor tendon irritation because it avoids contact with the extensor hood and could possibly prohibit cortical bone loss, a serious side effect in the "one and one-half loop" technique.

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

In this review of research on climbing expertise, we focus on different measures of climbing performance, including spatiotemporal measures related to fluency and activity states (i.e., discrete actions), adopted by climbers for achieving overall performance goals of getting to the end of a route efficiently and safely. Currently, a broad range of variables have been reported, however, many of these fail to capture how climbers adapt to a route whilst climbing. We argue that spatiotemporal measures should be considered concurrently with evaluation of activity states (such as reaching or exploring) in order gain a more comprehensive picture of how climbers successfully adapt to a route. Spatial and temporal movement measures taken at the hip are a traditional means of assessing efficiency of climbing behaviors. More recently, performatory and exploratory actions of the limbs have been used in combination with spatiotemporal indicators, highlighting the influence of limb states on climbing efficiency and skill transfer. However, only a few studies have attempted to combine spatiotemporal and activity state measures taken during route climbing. This review brings together existing approaches for observing climbing skill at performance outcome (i.e., spatiotemporal assessments) and process (i.e., limb activity states) levels of analysis. Skill level is associated with a spatially efficient route progression and lower levels of immobility. However, more difficult hold architecture designs require significantly greater mobility and more complex movement patterning to maintain performance. Different forms of functional, or goal-supportive, movement variability, including active recovery and hold exploration, have been implicated as important adaptations to physiological and environmental dynamics that emerge during the act of climbing. Indeed, recently it has also been shown that, when climbing on new routes, efficient exploration can improve the transfer of skill. This review provides new insights into how climbing performance and related actions can be quantified to better capture the functional role of movement variability.

The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers

PURPOSE

The primary aim of this study is to determine the principal somatic and motor determinants for elite climbers.

METHODS

Twenty climbers were examined [age: 28.5±6.1 years].The runners were divided into two groups based on their climbing level, according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA). Elite climbers represented a 8b-8c Rotpunkt (RP) climbing level (n = 6), and advanced climbers represented an 7c+-8a RP level (n = 14). The following measurements were assessed: height, weight, lean body mass, upper limb length, arm span, and forearm, arm, thigh and calf circumference. The BMI, Rohrer ratio, and Ape Index were also measured. The following motor tests were assessed: a specific test for finger strength, an arm strength test, and a test of muscle endurance (hanging from 2.5 and 4 cm ledges). In addition, pull ups were used to measure muscle resistance to fatigue.

RESULTS

Elite climbers recorded significantly higher values for finger strength than advanced climbers (129.08 vs. 111.54 kg; t(18) = 2.35, p = 0.03) and arm endurance (33.17 vs. 25.75 pull ups; t(18) = 2.54, p = 0.02). In addition, the calf circumference was significantly lower in elite climbers than that in advanced climbers (34.75 vs. 36.93 cm; t(18) = 3.50, p = 0.003).

CONCLUSION

The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength and arm endurance than advanced climbers.

The effects of high resistance-few repetitions and low resistance-high repetitions resistance training on climbing performance

The aim of the study was to compare the effects of different strength training intensities on climbing performance, climbing-specific tests and a general strength test. Thirty lower grade and intermediate-level climbers participated in a 10-week training programme. The participants were randomized into three groups: high resistance-few repetitions training groups (HR-FR), low resistance-high repetitions training groups (LR-HR) and a control group (CON) which continued climbing/training as usual. Post-testing results demonstrated statistical tendencies for climbing performance improvements in the HR-FR and LR-HR (p = 0.088-0.090, effect size = 0.55-0.73), but no differences were observed between the groups (p = 0.950). For the climbing-specific tests, no differences were observed between the groups (p = 0.507-1.000), but the HR-FR and LR-HR improved their time in both Dead-hang (p = 0.004-0.026) and Bent-arm hang (p < 0.001-0.002). The HR-FR and LR-HR improved their 12RM strength in pull-down (p ≤ 0.001), but not the CON group (p = 0.250). No differences were observed in the CON group in any of the tests (p = 0.190-0.596) with the exception of improvement in Bent-arm Hang (p = 0.018). The training groups reduced their climbing sessions during the intervention compared to the CON group (p = 0.057-0.074). In conclusion, HR-FR and LR-HR training programmes demonstrated an 11% and 12% non-significant improvement in climbing performance despite a 50% reduction in climbing sessions, but improved the results in strength and climbing-specific tests. None of the training intensities was superior compared to the others.

Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength, anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue

The goal of this study was to (i) assess the physical and anthropometric differences between three levels of climbers and (ii) predict climbing ability by using a multiple regression model. The participants were divided into novice (n = 15), skilled (n = 16), and elite (n = 10) climbers. Anthropometric characteristics such as height, weight, percentage of body fat and muscle, bi-acromial breath, arm span, and ape index were measured. General and specific strength were assessed through an arm jump test, a bench press test, and a hand and finger grip strength test in maximal and endurance conditions. All variables were combined into components via a principal component analysis (PCA) and the components used in a multiple regression analysis. The major finding of this study is that climbing ability is more related to specific rather than general strength. Only finger grip strength shows a higher level of initial strength between all samples while the arm jump test discriminates between climbers and non-climbers. The PCA reveals three components, labeled as training, muscle, and anthropometry, which together explain 64.22% of the variance. The regression model indicates that trainable variables explained 46% of the total variance in climbing ability, whereas anthropometry and muscle characteristics explain fewer than 4%.

Motor unit activation strategy during a sustained isometric contraction of finger flexor muscles in elite climbers

The aim of the study was to evaluate, by an electromyographic (EMG) and mechanomyographic (MMG) combined approach, whether years of specific climbing activity induced neuromuscular changes towards performances related to a functional prevalence of fast resistant or fast fatigable motor units. For this purpose, after the maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) assessment, 11 elite climbers and 10 controls performed an exhaustive handgrip isometric effort at 80% MVC. Force, EMG and MMG signals were recorded from the finger flexor muscles during contraction. Time and frequency domain analysis of EMG and MMG signals was performed. In climbers: (i) MVC was higher (762 ± 34 vs 512 ± 57 N; effect size: 1.64; confidence interval: 0.65-2.63; P < 0.05); (ii) endurance time at 80% MVC was 43% longer (34.2 ± 3.7 vs 22.3 ± 1.5 s; effect size: 1.21; confidence interval: 0.28-2.14; P < 0.05); (iii) force accuracy and stability were greater during contraction (P < 0.05); (iv) EMG and MMG parameters were higher throughout the entire isometric effort (P < 0.05). Collectively, force, EMG and MMG combined analysis revealed that several years of specific climbing activity addressed the motor control system to adopt muscle activation strategies based on the functional prevalence of fast resistant motor units.

Estimation of hand and wrist muscle capacities in rock climbers

PURPOSE

This study investigated the hand and wrist muscle capacities among expert rock climbers and compared them with those of non-climbers. The objective was to identify the adaptations resulting from several years of climbing practice.

METHODS

Twelve climbers (nine males and three females) and 13 non-climber males participated in this study. Each subject performed a set of maximal voluntary contractions about the wrist and the metacarpo-phalengeal joints during which net joint moments and electromyographic activities were recorded. From this data set, the muscle capacities of the five main muscle groups of the hand (wrist flexors, wrist extensors, finger flexors, finger extensors and intrinsic muscles) were estimated using a biomechanical model. This process consisted in adjusting the physiological cross-sectional area (PCSA) and the maximal muscle stress value from an initial generic model.

RESULTS

Results obtained from the model provided several new pieces of information compared to the analysis of only the net joint moments. Particularly, the capacities of the climbers were 37.1 % higher for finger flexors compared to non-climbers and were similar for finger extensor and for the other muscle groups. Climbers thus presented a greater imbalance between flexor and extensor capacities which suggests a potential risk of pathologies.

CONCLUSIONS

The practice of climbing not only increased the strength of climbers but also resulted in specific adaptations among hand muscles. The proposed method and the obtained data could be re-used to optimize the training programs as well as the rehabilitation processes following hand pathologies.

Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing

The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique.

Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers

Climbing performance relies to a great extent on the performance of the finger flexor muscles. Only a few studies investigated this performance in top class climbers and only one study compared gender-specific differences. This study investigated the climbing-specific finger flexor strength and endurance and related muscular oxygenation in 12 elite female and male climbers and 12 non-climbers. After the assessment of maximum voluntary finger flexor contraction (MVC), two isometric finger flexor endurance tests were performed at 40% MVC until exhaustion. A continuous isometric test was followed by an intermittent isometric test (10 s contraction, 3 s rest). Changes in oxygenation of finger flexor muscles were recorded using near infrared spectroscopy. MVC and strength-to-weight ratio were greater in climbers than non-climbers (P = 0.003; P < 0.001) and greater in men than women (P < 0.001; P = 0.002). Time to task failure for the intermittent test and the force-time integrals for the continuous and the intermittent test were also significantly greater in climbers (P = 0.030; P = 0.027; P = 0.005). During the intermittent test, re-oxygenation of the working muscles was faster in climbers (P < 0.05) without gender-specific differences. Close correlations were demonstrated between the best on-sight climbing performance and strength-to-weight ratio (r (2) = 0.946, P < 0.001) only in female climbers. The superior intermittent finger flexor endurance of climbers over non-climbers may be explained by the faster re-oxygenation of the finger flexor muscles during the short rest phases.

Force sharing and neutral line during finger extension tasks

There is general consensus that the minimization of the secondary torque of the hand provides a universal model for explaining the force sharing patterns among the fingers. Since biomechanical secondary axes of the hand are unchanged in extension, it appears relevant to validate this model for finger extension forces. Fifteen subjects performed flexion and extension forces in a four-finger task. Each fingertip force was expressed in percentage of the force produced by an individual finger force over the resultant four-finger force (force sharing), and the point of force application of the resultant force was calculated (neutral line). The force-sharing pattern was different for flexion and extension. The index and ring fingers were equally involved, regardless of the task. The neutral line was located differently in flexion and extension, and for proximal and distal force application in extension. The mode of control of the finger redundancy was specific to the force production in flexion and extension. In flexion, the principle of minimization of secondary torque was confirmed. This was not observed in extension. We concluded that the minimization of the secondary torque is not a universal mode of control of the finger redundancy.

Kinetics of crimp and slope grip in rock climbing

The aim was to investigate differences of the kinetics of the crimp and the slope grip used in rock climbing. Nine cadaver fingers were prepared and fixated with the proximal phalanx in a frame. The superficial (FDS) and deep (FDP) flexor tendons were loaded selectively and together with 40 N in the crimp grip (PIP joint flexed 90°/DIP joint hyperextended) and the slope grip position (<25° flexed/50° flexed respectively). Five different grip sizes were tested and the flexion force which was generated to the grip was measured. In the crimp grip the FDP generated more flexion force in small sized holds whereas the FDS generated more force in the larger holds. During the slope grip the FDP was more effective than the FDS. While both tendons were loaded, the flexion force was always greater during crimp grip compared with the slope grip. The FDP seems to be most important for very small holds using the crimp grip but also during slope grip holds whereas the FDS is more important for larger flat holds.

The influence of concentric and eccentric loading on the finger pulley system

In this study we investigated the influence of the loading condition (concentric vs. eccentric loading) on the pulley system of the finger. For this purpose 39 cadaver finger (14 hands, 10 donors) were fixed into an isokinetic loading device. The forces in the flexor tendons and at the fingertip were recorded. In the concentric loading condition A2 and A4 ruptures as well as alternative events such as fracture of a phalanx or avulsion of the flexor tendons were almost equally distributed, whereas the A2 pulley rupture was the most common event (59%) in the eccentric loading condition and alternative events were rare (23.5%). The forces in the deep flexor tendon, the fingertip and in the pulleys were significantly lower in the eccentric loading condition. As the ruptures occurred at lower loads in the eccentric than in the concentric loading condition it can be concluded that friction may be an advantage for climbers, supporting the holding force of their flexor muscles but may also increase the susceptibility to injury.