Active Agents in Common Skin Care Products:

Ichthyosis: presentation and management

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

This review focuses on the presentation and management of ichthyoses and highlights recent advances in treatment that hold promise for better targeted therapy.

RECENT FINDINGS

The ichthyoses are a group of rare genetic diseases with a wide phenotypic spectrum, characterized most often by generalized hyperkeratosis and scaling with variable erythema. The highly visible scaling and frequent itch contribute to decreased quality of life. Management for ichthyosis focuses on symptomatic relief and scale reduction with emollients, keratolytics, and retinoids. Recent advances in immune profiling and genotype-phenotype mapping have increased understanding of ichthyosis and shifted focus to pathogenesis-based targeted therapies with emerging biologics, small molecular inhibitors, and gene therapy.

SUMMARY

This article discusses clinical assessment and genotyping to make the diagnosis of specific forms of ichthyosis, provides guidance for management, and reviews new treatment options with systemic agents.

Targeting Tyrosinase in Hyperpigmentation: Current Status, Limitations and Future Promises

Hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing dermatologic condition. Since tyrosinase (TYR) plays an essential role in melanogenesis, its inhibition is considered a logical approach along with other therapeutic methods to prevent the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Thus, TYR inhibitors are a tempting target as the medicinal and cosmetic active agents of hyperpigmentation disorder. Among TYR inhibitors, hydroquinone is a traditional lightening agent that is commonly used in clinical practice. However, despite good efficacy, prolonged use of hydroquinone is associated with side effects. To overcome these shortcomings, new approaches in targeting TYR and treating hyperpigmentation are desperately requiredessentialneeded. In line with this purpose, several non-hydroquinone lightening agents have been developed and suggested as hydroquinone alternatives. In addition to traditional approaches, nanomedicine and nanotheranostic platforms have been recently proposed in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In this review, we discuss the available strategies for the management of hyperpigmentation with a focus on TYR inhibition. In addition, alternative treatment options to hydroquinone are discussed. Finally, we present nano-based strategies to improve the therapeutic effect of drugs prescribed to patients with skin disorders.

The Science of Skin: Measuring Damage and Assessing Risk

Significance: Healthy skin provides a barrier to contaminants. Breaches in skin integrity are often encountered in the patient health care journey, owing to intrinsic health issues or to various procedures and medical devices used. The time has come to move clinical practice beyond mere awareness of medical adhesive-related skin injury and toward improved care and outcomes. Recent Advances: Methods developed in research settings allow quantitative assessments of skin damage based on the measurement of baseline skin properties. These properties become altered by stress and over time. Assessment methods typically used by the cosmetic industry to compare product performance could offer new possibilities to improve clinical practice by providing better information on the status of patient skin. This review summarizes available skin assessment methods as well as specific patient risks for skin damage. Critical Issues: Patients in health care settings may be at risk for skin damage owing to predisposing medical conditions, health status, medications taken, and procedures or devices used in their treatment. Skin injuries come as an additional burden to these medical circumstances and could be prevented. Technology should be leveraged to improve care, help maintain patient skin health, and better characterize functional wound closure. Future Directions: Skin testing methods developed to evaluate cosmetic products or assess damage caused by occupational exposure can provide detailed, quantitative information on the integrity of skin. Such methods have the potential to guide prevention and treatment efforts to improve the care of patients suffering from skin integrity issues while in the health care system.

Chronic kidney disease-associated pruritus in patients undergoing hemodialysis: Xerosis and topical therapy

Chronic kidney disease-associated pruritus (CKD-aP) is a common and distressing symptom for patients with CKD and a difficult challenge for nephrologists and dermatologists. Recent results showed the multifactorial nature of the pathophysiology, and therapeutic trials were only successful in certain subsets of patients. The clinical manifestations are varied, with xerosis being the most common dermatological manifestation and correlated with the intensity of CKD-aP. A better understanding of the pathophysiology of xerosis in CKD-aP and appropriate topical treatment could correct xerosis to reduce the intensity of CKD-aP and improve the patient's quality of life.

The potential fire risk of emollients when dried on viscose bandages

BACKGROUND

the potential fire risk of fabrics impregnated with emollients has been described within the health service, including ignition of bandages. The role of emollients in fire fatalities have also been included in coroner reports, as accelerating fires when present.

AIMS

although changes in burning behaviour is known, no standard tests have been carried out on bandages which are often used in conjunction with emollients.

METHOD

using a standard vertical flammability test, the flammability of viscose bandage was compared to when impregnated with nine dried on emollients with low to high and non-paraffin content.

FINDINGS

the time to ignition was significantly reduced with an emollient present and the glowing time was longer.

CONCLUSIONS

the same safety advice applies to viscose bandages as other fabrics with emollients; do not expose them to naked flames or high heat sources or allow emollients to build up on bandages.

Widely targeted metabolomics reveals stamen petaloid tissue of Paeonia lactiflora Pall. being a potential pharmacological resource

Paeonia lactiflflora Pall. has a long edible and medicinal history because of the very high content of biologically active compounds. However, little information is available about the metabolic basis of pharmacological values of P. lactiflora flowers. In this study, we investigated metabolites in the different parts of P. lactiflora flowers, including petal, stamen petaloid tissue and stamen, by widely targeted metabolomics approach. A total of 1102 metabolites were identified, among which 313 and 410 metabolites showed differential accumulation in comparison groups of petal vs. stamen petaloid tissue and stamen vs. stamen petaloid tissue. Differential accumulated metabolites analysis and KEGG pathway analysis showed that the flavonoids were the most critical differential metabolites. Furthermore, difference accumulation of flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins and alkaloids might lead to the differences in antioxidant activities and tyrosinase inhibition effects. Indeed, stamen petaloid tissue displayed better antioxidant and anti-melanin production activities than petal and stamen through experimental verification. These results not only expand our understanding of metabolites in P. lactiflora flowers, but also reveal that the stamen petaloid tissues of P. lactiflora hold the great potential as promising ingredients for pharmaceuticals, functional foods and skincare products.

Moisturizer in Patients with Inflammatory Skin Diseases

As interest in skin increases, the cosmetic market is also growing. It is difficult to choose between the numerous types of basic cosmetics on the market. This article aims to provide advice and guidance on which products to recommend according to a patient’s skin condition. Appropriate application of a moisturizer attempts not only to improve the dryness, but also improve the skin’s natural barrier function to protect the skin from internal and external irritants to keep the skin healthy. Moisturizers consist of various ingredients, including occlusive agents, emollients, humectants, lipid mixture, emulsifiers, and preservatives. Pathophysiology of dry skin is also discussed to provide readers with the background they need to choose the right moisturizer for themselves. As moisturizers play an important role as adjuvant in the treatment of common skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea, which type of moisturizer is appropriate for each disease was also dealt with. Basic cosmetics, especially moisturizers, should be recommended in consideration of the ingredients, effectiveness and safety of each product, and the skin condition of each patient.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations

BACKGROUND

The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

AIM

This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.

METHOD

The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

CONCLUSION

Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Men's Facial Moisturizers in the Metrosexual Era

BACKGROUND

Manufacturers are increasingly branding personal care products (PCPs) specifically for men.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was to characterize ingredients and claims of facial moisturizers marketed to men.

METHODS

Men's facial moisturizers from 7 different online retailers were identified in June-September 2018. Ingredients were grouped and identified per the Ingredient Database of the Personal Care Products Council. Potential allergens were identified using the 2017 American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS) Core Allergen Series and 2017-2018 North American Contact Dermatitis Group Screening Series.

RESULTS

Sixty-five men's facial moisturizers were identified with a total of 1930 ingredients. On average, there were 12 ACDS Core and 9 North American Contact Dermatitis Group Screening allergens per product. A total of 70.8% of products contained between 6 and 15 ACDS Core allergens. The most notable allergens were fragrances (present in 98.5% of products), propylene glycol/derivatives (32.3%), parabens (29.2%), and alkyl glucosides (26.2%). Interestingly, less than 10% of products contained the most common allergenic preservatives in PCPs: formaldehyde releasers and methylisothiazolinone.

CONCLUSIONS

Men's facial moisturizers commonly contain fragrances, emulsifiers, and glucosides but relatively few allergenic preservatives. This may reflect changes in modern PCP preservation. These findings are important for modern dermatologists to be aware, especially in a new era of male skincare.

Organic osmolytes increase expression of specific tight junction proteins in skin and alter barrier function in keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

The epidermal barrier is important for water conservation, failure of which is evident in dry-skin conditions. Barrier function is fulfilled by the stratum corneum, tight junctions (TJs, which control extracellular water) and keratinocyte mechanisms, such as organic osmolyte transport, which regulate intracellular water homeostasis. Organic osmolyte transport by keratinocytes is largely unexplored and nothing is known regarding how cellular and extracellular mechanisms of water conservation may interact.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to characterize osmolyte transporters in skin and keratinocytes, and, using transporter inhibitors, to investigate whether osmolytes can modify TJs. Such modification would suggest a possible link between intracellular and extracellular mechanisms of water regulation in skin.

METHODS

Immunostaining and quantitative polymerase chain reaction of organic osmolyte-treated organ-cultured skin were used to identify changes to organic osmolyte transporters, and TJ protein and gene expression. TJ functional assays were performed on organic osmolyte-treated primary human keratinocytes in culture.

RESULTS

Immunostaining demonstrated the expression of transporters for betaine, taurine and myo-inositol in transporter-specific patterns. Treatment of human skin with either betaine or taurine increased the expression of claudin-1, claudin-4 and occludin. Osmolyte transporter inhibition abolished this response. Betaine and taurine increased TJ function in primary human keratinocytes in vitro.

CONCLUSIONS

Treatment of skin with organic osmolytes modulates TJ structure and function, which could contribute to the epidermal barrier. This emphasizes a role for organic osmolytes beyond the maintenance of intracellular osmolarity. This could be harnessed to enhance topical therapies for diseases characterized by skin barrier dysfunction.

Collagen formula with Djulis for improvement of skin hydration, brightness, texture, crow's feet, and collagen content: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial

BACKGROUND

The efficacy of Djulis for skin care is currently based on cellular or animal models, and the clinical aspect is not in place.

AIM

This clinical study is to investigate the synergistic effect of fish collagen and Djulis (Chenopodium formosanum Koidz.) for improvement of skin parameters. We used the combination of hydrolyzed collagen and Djulis to develop a new functional formula for skin improvement.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Fifty volunteers were randomly allocated (in a 1:1 ratio) to the placebo or collagen drink group. Volunteers were required to consume a 50 mL of a collagen drink or placebo drink daily for 8 weeks. For measurements, the indexes of skin conditions were measured at the baseline and 4 and 8 weeks.

RESULTS

The improvements of skin hydration, brightness, crow's feet, texture, wrinkles, pores, spots, and collagen content after 8 weeks in collagen group were 17.8%, 5.4%, 14.9%, 9.9%, 29.3%, 10.4%, 9.9%, and 22.3%, respectively. Noticeably, over 68% of subjects got improved for their skin parameters after 8-week intake of collagen drink. The improvement levels indicated competitive skin improvement effects in comparison with previous studies.

CONCLUSION

This clinical study demonstrates the synergistic effect of fish collagen and Djulis (the main components) for the substantial improvements in hydration, brightness, crow's feet, texture, wrinkles, pores, surface spots, and collagen content in skin. The collagen drink comprehensively improved skin parameters for most subjects after 4-week intake and manifested competitive efficiency in comparison with other similar studies. We convince that the collagen drink may delay skin aging process and improve skin aging parameters.

A high-emollient liquid cleanser for very dry and atopic-prone skin: Results of an in-use tolerance and efficacy study conducted under dermatological, pediatric, and ophthalmological supervision

BACKGROUND

Emollients play a key role in the treatment of eczematous lesions and xerosis such as in atopic dermatitis. However, studies that show the actual benefits of cleansers are few and far between.

AIMS

This study aims to evaluate the tolerance and efficacy of a high-emollient liquid cleanser (HELC) designed for very dry and atopic-prone skin, in the absence of any additional skin care. The product is a soap-free and fragrance-free liquid cleanser, containing mild surfactants and a ternary system of selected emollients: glycerin, vaseline, and paraffin.

METHODS

In-use study was conducted under dermatological, pediatric, and ophthalmological supervision in 50 subjects (infants, children, and adults) with "dry to very dry and atopic-prone" skin. The primary objective of this monocentric, open, and intra-individual study was to assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance of HELC after 21 days of using it at least once a day on the face and body. The secondary objectives were to evaluate its efficacy based on a clinical score (SCORAD), assess its short- and long-term moisturizing effect by measuring hydration rates (Corneometer^® ), and ascertain its cosmetic acceptability through a subjective evaluation questionnaire.

RESULTS

The study validates the good dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance of HELC. Its efficacy was demonstrated by improvements in the SCORAD and moisturizing scores. Furthermore, the product was very well accepted by the subjects.

CONCLUSION

The fragrance-free HELC tested in this study for 21 days on "dry to very dry and atopic-prone skin" improves skin dryness and pruritus while ensuring good tolerance.

Proderm technology: a water- based lipid delivery system for dermatitis that penetrates viable epidermis and has antibacterial effects

Background

A defective skin barrier and bacterial colonization are two important factors in maintenance and progression of atopic dermatitis and chronic allergic/irritant hand dermatitis. A water-based lipid delivery system containing physiologic lipids was previously shown to be a useful adjunct in the treatment of hand dermatitis. We tested the ability of this formulation to penetrate into the viable epidermis and in addition assessed its antibacterial properties.

Methods

Epidermal penetration of the product was assessed by fluorescence microscopy. Recovery of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus MRSA from skin treated with Neosalus® foam was quantified.

Results

Components of Neosalus® penetrated the stratum corneum and were distributed throughout the viable epidermis. Neosalus® significantly decreased recovery of both Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli from the skin surface.

Conclusions

The ability of components of Neosalus® to be taken up into the viable epidermis and potentially made available for incorporation into the barrier lipids, combined with antibacterial properties, indicate that this formulation may be valuable not only in chronic hand dermatitis, but also in various other forms of dermatitis.

Trial registration

Current Controlled Trials ISRCTN18191379, 28/12/2018, retrospectively registered.

Cosmetics in use: a pharmacological review

Cosmetics" really comes from its utilization in Ancient Rome. They were commonly delivered by female slaves known as "cosmetae," which is the place "cosmetics" originated from. Cosmetics are utilized to upgrade appearance. Makeup has been around for a long time. The primary known individuals who utilized cosmetics to upgrade their beauty were the Egyptians. Makeup those days was simply basic eye shading or some material for the body. Presently a-days makeup assumes an imperative job for the two men and women. In developmental brain science, social challenge of appearance reinforces women's wants for perfect beauty. As indicated by "The Origin of Species", people have developed to exchange qualities to future ages through sexual determination that respects the body state of perfect beauty as astounding richness. Also, since women's beauty has as of late been viewed as an upper hand to make social power, a body that satisfies the social guidelines of a culture could accomplish restricted social assets. It's hard to believe, but it’s true, even men have turned out to be more beauty cognizant and are worried about their looks. Cosmetics can be delivered in the natural and hypoallergenic structure to fulfill the needs of clients. Makeup is utilized as a beauty help to help develop the self-esteem and certainty of a person. The significance of cosmetics has expanded the same number of individuals need to remain youthful and alluring. Cosmetics are promptly accessible today as creams, lipstick, scents, eye shadows, nail shines, hair showers and so forth. Different cosmetics like face powder offer gleam to the skin subsequent to applying the base cream. At that point we have lipsticks, which are connected by numerous women all things considered. They are produced using wax and cocoa butter in the ideal sum. Cosmetics like creams, gels, and colognes are utilized consistently by the two women and men. Creams go about as a chemical for the face as a rule. All the more as of late enemy of maturing creams have been made which can hold more youthful looking skin for a long time. The best cleansing specialists are cleansing cream, cleanser and water. Cosmetic creams fill in as skin sustenance for hard, dry and dry skin. It fundamentally greases up, diminishes and expels undesirable earth from the skin. Some famous fat creams that are utilized incorporate Vaseline and Lanolin. Dry creams are utilized in the assembling of cleanser and gelatin which is utilized as a base for the skin. Hair care has turned out to be one of the quickest creating markets in the beauty business. Numerous young fellows swing to oils and gels to keep up and style their hair. Items like hair gels, oils, and moisturizers have been acquainted in the market with assistance ensure hair fall and dandruff. A few callings, similar to the entertainment biz industry, center on the significance of the external appearance. Numerous identities and craftsmen have used makeup to beat the brutal lights and the glare of camera flashes. They know the significance of their looks and keep up them by utilizing an assortment of cosmetics. Their appearance is their most profitable resource and they accept each undertaking to show up as the fans need them to show up. Late research has demonstrated that makeup helps in assurance from destructive beams of the sun. Numerous beauty items producers have used the necessities of individuals to shield themselves and their skin from the beams of the sun. This is an extraordinary achievement on the grounds that prior make up and sun assurance could not mix together. Today Cosmetics help to upgrade our appearance and make us feel increasingly certain. With more cosmetics available today than any other time in recent memory, it ends up clear to us that they assume an extraordinary job in our regular daily existence (Figure 1).

Effects of Short-Term Moisturizer Application in Different Ethnic Skin Types: Noninvasive Assessment with Optical Coherence Tomography and Reflectance Confocal Microscopy

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Ethnic skin types are known to differ in their morphological and physiological features. Thus, treatment responses may vary among different races. We aimed to assess skin morphology of different ethnicities and to compare the effect of short-term moisturizer application using optical coherence tomography (OCT) and reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM).

METHODS

Thirty healthy female subjects of European, Asian and Black ethnicity at 30-45 years of age were included in the study. OCT and RCM imaging was performed on the cheek to compare morphology. Following the 2-week application of a moisturizer cream (Sebamed® lotion) on one forearm, imaging was performed on both forearms to assess and compare treatment responses.

RESULTS

Epidermal thickness and morphology of pores varied between the three ethnic groups, with Black subjects displaying the thickest epidermis and largest skin pores. On the treated forearm, OCT measurements revealed a significantly thicker epidermis in all groups as compared to the untreated forearm. Width of skin folds on the treated forearm was measured by RCM to be significantly lower in all ethnic groups as compared to the untreated forearm.

CONCLUSION

Different ethnic skin types showed variations in skin morphology and treatment response to short-term moisturizer application. OCT and RCM were useful methods for noninvasive, real-time, repeated assessment of ethnic skin.

Skin cleansing and emolliating for older people: A quasi-experimental pilot study

AIMS

The aims of this study were to (i) assess the effect of low-cost hygiene and emollient regimens on the skin barrier function (SBF) of people aged >65 year with xerosis (dry skin) on their lower legs; (ii) to assess the utility of portable measures of skin barrier function in terms of stratum corneum hydration (SCH) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in community settings; and iii) to provide evidence for a randomised controlled trial on the treatment of adults in a resource-poor country with dry skin on their lower legs which causes and exacerbates the skin disease podoconiosis (non-filarial elephantiasis).

BACKGROUND

Age increases the risk of impaired skin barrier function which can precipitate skin breakdown. Older skin is frequently characterised by troublesome xerosis and pruritus (itching). Hygiene and emollient practices are central to maintaining skin integrity but are currently under-researched.

METHOD

A quasi-experimental pilot study of five combinations of cleansing and emollient interventions was applied to the xerotic lower legs of ten participants with no skin disease for five consecutive days. Stratum corneum hydration and transepidermal water loss were measured at baseline and day six. Products were chosen because of effectiveness, low cost and availability in a poor-resource country.

RESULTS

The greatest difference in transepidermal water loss pre-intervention-postintervention was indicated by the regimen of soapy water, 2% glycerine soak and Vaseline^™ (mean 1.14, SD 1.27). This regimen also indicated the greatest difference in stratum corneum hydration (mean 7.92, SD 3.93). The improvement in stratum corneum hydration was significantly greater than for the control (p = .011), soap (p = .050) or water soak (p = .011).

CONCLUSION

A regimen of washing skin with soapy water, soaking in 2% glycerine for 30 min and applying Vaseline^™ has a beneficial effect on the skin barrier function in older people. The study supports previous findings on the positive effects of glycerine on skin barrier function.

IMPLICATIONS FOR PRACTICE AND RESEARCH

Skin barrier function in older people can be improved using a regimen of washing, soaking in 2% glycerine and applying Vaseline^™ .

Stingless Bee Honey, the Natural Wound Healer: A Review

<b><i>Background:</i></b> The stingless bee is a natural type of bee that exists in almost every continent. The honey produced by this bee has been widely used across time and space. The distinctive feature of this honey is that it is stored naturally in the pot (cerumen), thus contributing to its beneficial properties, especially in the wound healing process. <b><i>Methods:</i></b> In this article, several studies on stingless bee honey that pointed out the numerous therapeutic profiles of this honey in terms of its antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, as well as moisturizing properties are reviewed. All of these therapeutic properties are related to wound healing properties. <b><i>Results:</i></b> Antioxidant in stingless bee honey could break the chain of free radicals that cause a detrimental effect to the wounded area. Furthermore, the antimicrobial properties of stingless bee honey could overcome the bacterial contamination and thus improve the healing rate. Moreover, the anti-inflammatory attribute in this honey could protect the tissue from highly toxic inflammatory mediators. The moisturizing properties of the honey could improve wound healing by promoting angiogenesis and oxygen circulation. <b><i>Conclusion:</i></b> The application of honey to the wound has been widely used since ancient times. As a result, it is essential to understand the pharmacological mechanism of the honey towards the physiology of the wounded skin in order to optimize the healing rate in the future.

Noninvasive Facial Rejuvenation. Part 1: Patient-Directed

A proper knowledge of noninvasive facial rejuvenation is integral to the practice of a cosmetic surgeon. Noninvasive facial rejuvenation can be divided into patient- versus physician-directed modalities. Patient-directed facial rejuvenation combines the use of facial products such as sunscreen, moisturizers, retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, and various antioxidants to both maintain youthful skin and rejuvenate damaged skin. Physicians may recommend and often prescribe certain products, but the patients are in control of this type of facial rejuvenation. On the other hand, physician-directed facial rejuvenation entails modalities that require direct physician involvement, such as neuromodulators, filler injections, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. With the successful integration of each of these modalities, a complete facial regimen can be established and patient satisfaction can be maximized. This article is the first in a three-part series describing noninvasive facial rejuvenation. The authors focus on patient-directed facial rejuvenation. It is important, however, to emphasize that even in a patient-directed modality, a physician's involvement through education and guidance is integral to its success.

A controlled laboratory comparison of 4 topical skin creams moisturizing capability on human subjects

PURPOSE

This study compares human skin capacitance (moisture) readings after the application of 4 different, commercially available, topical skin creams.

SUBJECTS AND SETTING

Twenty-one subjects (15 women and 6 men) aged 49.38 ± 11.02) years (mean ± SD) participated. This study was conducted in a climate-controlled laboratory on healthy human subjects.

DESIGN

Randomized experimental study comparing 4 topical skin creams for their effect on human skin capacitance (moisture).

METHODS

Subject forearm skin was conditioned for 7 days prior to testing by washing with a standard soap and application of no other products. Each subject was marked with 5 test sites on the forearms. Sites on the volar surface of each subject's forearms were randomly assigned for application of 1 of 4 product pairs, consisting of a cleanser and a topical skin cream or a control site. A Corneometer was used to measure skin capacitance. Each site on the arms was cleaned and dried, tested again for moisture content, subjected to topical skin cream application, and finally tested again for moisture content. Changes were measured by subtracting the capacitance readings at baseline from values measured following topical skin cream application for each test site.

RESULTS

The mean change in capacitance was 13.9 for product 1, 10.3 for product 3, 8.7 for product 2, 1.6 for product 4, and 0.8 for the control site. The mean capacitance change in sites treated with product 1 (13.9 ± 8.0, mean ± SD) was significantly greater than all others. There was no difference between the change in capacitance of product 2 (mean = 8.7, SD = 4.9) and product 3 (10.3 ± 7.1) t(20) = 1.081, P = .293, nor between product 4 (1.6 ± 3.9) and the control site (0.3, ± 2.2) t(20) = 0.779, P = .445. The capacitance change of products 2 and 3 was greater than that of product 4 and the control site.

CONCLUSIONS

Commercially available topical skin creams vary in their impact on human skin capacitance. In this study, sites tested with product 1 had a greater skin capacitance reading than the other tested products; products 2 and 3 had similar capacitance readings. The results of this study provide an initial evaluation of topical skin creams that have varying impacts on skin capacitance.

Incontinence-associated dermatitis: identification, prevention and care

Incontinence-associated dermatitis (IAD) is a common skin disorder experienced by people who suffer from faecal and/or urinary incontinence. It is painful and in some cases accompanied by significant secondary infections. The prevalence is higher in those people receiving long-term care at home. IAD is often misdiagnosed and confused with pressure ulcers. Care providers now crossover health and social care boundaries and education on continence-related issues is often not prioritised. This article looks at normal skin physiology and the aetiology of IAD versus pressure ulcers. It suggests prevention and management strategies in relation to IAD; in particular, the use of barrier creams. A selection of case studies evaluating the efficacy of using Cutimed PROTECT cream in cases of IAD are presented.

Estrogenic and anti-estrogenic activity of off-the-shelf hair and skin care products

Use of personal care products is widespread in the United States but tends to be greater among African Americans than whites. Of special concern is the possible hazard of absorption of chemicals with estrogenic activity (EA) or anti-EA (AEA) in these products. Such exposure may have adverse health effects, especially when it occurs during developmental windows (e.g., prepubertally) when estrogen levels are low. We assessed the ethanol extracts of eight commonly used hair and skin products popular among African Americans for EA and AEA using a cell proliferation assay with the estrogen sensitive MCF-7:WS8 cell line derived from a human breast cancer. Four of the eight personal care products tested (Oil Hair Lotion, Extra-dry Skin Lotion, Intensive Skin Lotion, Petroleum Jelly) demonstrated detectable EA, whereas three (Placenta Hair Conditioner, Tea-Tree Hair Conditioner, Cocoa Butter Skin Cream) exhibited AEA. Our data indicate that hair and skin care products can have EA or AEA, and suggest that laboratory studies are warranted to investigate the in vivo activity of such products under chronic exposure conditions as well as epidemiologic studies to investigate potential adverse health effects that might be associated with use of such products.

[Aquagenic urticaria. A case report]

A 38-year-old woman presented with recurrent episodes of urticaria after contact with water affecting the upper part of the body. We confirmed the diagnosis of aquagenic urticaria. Aquagenic urticaria is a rare form of contact urticaria with small wheals generally affecting the upper part of the body. It has to be distinguished from aquagenic pruritus. The pathogenetic mechanisms are not known in detail. Treatment with antihistamines, ultraviolet therapy or application of protective hydrophobic barrier creams could be effective.

An integral topical gel for cellulite reduction: results from a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled evaluation of efficacy

BACKGROUND

Cellulite is a serious cosmetic concern for most of the 90% of women affected by it.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the clinical efficacy of a complex integral anti-cellulite gel.

METHODS

This double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study involved 44 healthy women, aged 25-55 years. Subjects had a normal to slightly overweight body mass index and presented slight to moderate cellulite on their thighs, buttocks, and/or hips at baseline. Subjects were randomly assigned to either the treated or placebo group and accordingly applied the active product or placebo on their hips, stomach, buttocks, and thighs, twice daily for 3 months. Skin tonicity, orange-peel aspect, and stubborn cellulite were assessed at day 0, 28, 56, and 84. A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed by all volunteers.

RESULTS

At the end of the study, an average of 81% of the subjects applying the active product presented improvement in their cellulite condition versus 32% for the placebo group (all descriptors and sites combined). At day 84, skin tonicity, orange-peel appearance, and stubborn cellulite were improved in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, on all studied areas. Skin tonicity improved on average by +41% for buttocks, +35% for hips, and +31% for thighs. Orange peel appearance was reduced on average by -25% for buttocks, -22% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Stubborn cellulite was reduced on average by -19% for buttocks, -24% for hips, and -22% for thighs. Circumference measurements decreased in a significant manner (P<0.05) over placebo, for the abdomen (average value of -1.1 cm) and thighs (average value of -0.8 cm). The product was well tolerated and perceived by the volunteers themselves as better performing than placebo on all criteria.

CONCLUSION

All results validate the efficacy of the present integral formulation to significantly reduce signs of cellulite and reshape the silhouette.

Pilot study to evaluate the effect of topical dimethicone on clinical signs and skin barrier function in dogs with naturally occurring atopic dermatitis

This study investigated the effects of a skin protectant solution (dimethicone 2%) on clinical signs and skin barrier function in canine atopic dermatitis (AD). Eighteen dogs with AD were randomly divided into two groups, one received dimethicone and the other received the vehicle (cyclomethicone) on selected areas (pinnae, groin, and axillae) daily for 4 weeks. Owners and investigators were blinded regarding group allocation. Clinical efficacy was evaluated using a scoring system and skin barrier by measuring the transepidermal water loss. Twelve dogs completed the study (50% drop rate in the vehicle and 20% in the dimethicone). For clinical signs, analysis of variance showed an effect of time (P < 0.005; day 0 > day 28) and region (axillae < groin < pinnae) but no effect of group or group × time interaction. For transepidermal water loss, analysis of variance showed only a main effect of region (axillae > pinnae > groin). Pearson found no correlation between transepidermal water loss and clinical scores. In this pilot study dimethicone had no significant effect on clinical signs and transepidermal water loss in canine atopic dermatitis.

The science behind sunscreens

Exposure to ultraviolet light is a well-documented cause of immunosuppression, matrix degradation, premature facial aging, and skin cancer. Because sunscreens can limit ultraviolet-induced skin damage and production of matrix metalloproteinases, they are accepted as the most active and beneficial of antiaging products. Understanding the variety of ingredients available, and their individual advantages and disadvantages, will allow a clinician to make more informed recommendations regarding the use of sunscreens.

A 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth impregnated with dimethicone 3% versus water and pH neutral soap to prevent and treat incontinence-associated dermatitis: a randomized, controlled clinical trial

PURPOSE

We compared the effectiveness of a 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth versus standard of care (water and pH neutral soap) to prevent and treat incontinence-associated dermatitis (IAD). The product under study was a soft, premoistened washcloth, including a 3% dimethicone formula, with cleansing, moisturizing, and barrier protection properties.

DESIGN

Randomized, controlled clinical trial.

SUBJECTS AND SETTING

The study sample comprised a random sample of 11 nursing home wards (6 experimental and 5 control) in a convenience sample of 4 nursing homes in Belgium. The sample included nursing home residents at risk for and/or affected by IAD defined as incontinent of urine, feces, urine/feces, and/or having erythema of the perineal skin (not caused by pressure/shear), and/or having an edematous skin in the genital area.

METHODS

Participants in the experimental group were treated according to a standardized protocol, including the use of a 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth impregnated with a 3% dimethicone skin protectant. Participants in the control group received perineal skin care with water and pH neutral soap, the standard of care in Belgian nursing homes. The study period was 120 days. Data were collected between February and May 2010. Incontinence-associated dermatitis prevalence and severity were assessed using the IAD Skin Condition Assessment Tool. The surface (cm), redness, and depth of the perineal lesion were assessed daily by the nurses. This tool generates a cumulative severity score (maximum score = 10) based on area of skin affected, degree of redness, and depth of erosion.

RESULTS

Four hundred sixty-four nursing home residents were assessed and 32.9% (n = 141) met the criteria for inclusion, including 73 subjects in the experimental group and 68 in the control group. Baseline IAD prevalence was comparable in both groups (experimental: 22.3% vs control: 22.8%, P = .76). Baseline IAD severity was 6.9/10 in the experimental group and 7.3/10 in the control group. A significant intervention effect on IAD prevalence was found (experimental: 8.1% vs control: 27.1%, F = 3.1, P = .003). A nonsignificant effect on IAD severity could be determined (experimental: 3.8/10 vs control: 6.9/10, F = 0.8, P = .06).

CONCLUSION

The use of a 3-in-1 washcloth, impregnated with a 3% dimethicone formula, resulted in a significantly reduced prevalence of IAD and a trend toward less severe lesions. These findings provide indicative evidence for the use of 3-in-1 perineal care washcloth as an effective intervention against the use of water and a pH neutral soap to prevent and/or treat IAD.

Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation

Facial hyperpigmented disorders are a common complaint in the adult population of all races. First-line topical treatments are usually hydroquinone or topical retinoids, which can cause irritant reactions. The need for better tolerated, yet effective, skin lightening agents that could be utilized by a wider population has led to the investigation of several potential botanical/natural compounds. There are currently many topical cosmetic formulations claiming skin depigmenting effects. A few of the ingredients (e.g. soy) are supported not only by in vitro results but also by a body of controlled clinical efficacy studies; other ingredients, instead, are backed mostly by in vitro data and a few small uncontrolled clinical studies. In this review, we describe the most common natural ingredients used for skin depigmentation and their major published studies: soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, COFFEEBERRY(™) and green tea.