Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients

With the advancement of living standards in modern society and the emergence of an aging population, an increasing number of people are becoming interested in the topic of aging and anti-aging. An important feature of aging is skin aging, and women are particularly concerned about skin aging. In the field of cosmetics, the market share of anti-aging products is increasing year by year. This article reviews the research and development progress of skin aging and related active compounds both domestically and internationally in recent years. The results show that, in terms of the research on skin aging, the popular theories mainly include free radicals and oxidative stress theory, inflammation theory, photoaging theory, and nonenzymatic glycosyl chemistry theory. In terms of research on the active ingredients with anti-aging activities in the skin, there are numerous reports on related products in clinical studies on human subjects, animal experiments, and experimental studies on cell cultures, with a variety of types. Most of the compounds against skin aging are sourced from natural products and their action mechanisms are mainly related to scavenging oxygen free radicals and enhancing antioxidant defenses. This review provides important references for the future research of skin aging and the development of related products. Although there is a great progress in skin aging including related active ingredients, ideal compounds or products are still lacking and need to be further validated. New mechanisms of skin aging, new active ingredients sourced from natural and artificial products, and new pharmaceutical forms including further clinical validations should be further investigated in the future.

Ultrastable and Responsive Foams Based on 10-Hydroxystearic Acid Soap for Spore Decontamination

Currently, there is renewed interest in using fatty acid soaps as surfactants. Hydroxylated fatty acids are specific fatty acids with a hydroxyl group in the alkyl chain, giving rise to chirality and specific surfactant properties. The most famous hydroxylated fatty acid is 12-hydroxystearic acid (12-HSA), which is widely used in industry and comes from castor oil. A very similar and new hydroxylated fatty acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA), can be easily obtained from oleic acid by using microorganisms. Here, we studied for the first time the self-assembly and foaming properties of R-10-HSA soap in an aqueous solution. A multiscale approach was used by combining microscopy techniques, small-angle neutron scattering, wide-angle X-ray scattering, rheology experiments, and surface tension measurements as a function of temperature. The behavior of R-10-HSA was systematically compared with that of 12-HSA soap. Although multilamellar micron-sized tubes were observed for both R-10-HSA and 12-HSA, the structure of the self-assemblies at the nanoscale was different, which is probably due to the fact that the 12-HSA solutions were racemic mixtures, while the 10-HSA solutions were obtained from a pure R enantiomer. We also demonstrated that stable foams based on R-10-HSA soap can be used for cleaning applications, by studying spore removal on model surfaces in static conditions via foam imbibition.

Olive leaf-derived PPAR agonist complex induces collagen IV synthesis in human skin models

Introduction

Peroxisome proliferator‐activated receptor (PPAR) agonists are known to modulate the synthesis of dermal lipids and proteins including collagens. Olive (Olea europaea) leaves have been reported to contain PPAR‐binding ligands. Collagen IV, a major dermal‐epidermal junction (DEJ) protein, degrades with both age and disease. Here, we report the formulation of a novel multi‐ligand complex, Linefade, and its effects on collagen IV synthesis.

Methods

Linefade prepared from the leaves of Olea europaea contains 2% w/w plant extract solids dissolved in a mixture of glyceryl monoricinoleate and dimethyl isosorbide. In silico docking was performed with PPAR‐α (PDB ID: 2P54). Linefade was evaluated for PPAR‐α‐dependent transcription in a luciferase reporter assay system. Cell viability and collagen IV levels in human dermal fibroblast cultures were measured using the MTT method and ELISA assay, respectively. Transcriptome analysis was conducted on a full‐thickness reconstituted human skin (EpiDermFT) model. Ex vivo cell viability and collagen IV immunostaining were performed on human skin explants.

Results

In silico docking model of the major constituents (oleanolic acid and glyceryl monoricinoleate) produced a co‐binding affinity of −6.7 Kcal/mole. Linefade significantly increased PPAR‐α transcriptional activity in CHO cells and collagen IV synthesis in adult human dermal fibroblasts. Transcriptome analysis revealed that 1% Linefade modulated the expression of 280 genes with some related to epidermal differentiation, DEJ, PPAR, Nrf2 and retinoid pathways. An ex vivo human explant study showed that 1% Linefade, delivered via a triglycerides excipient, increased collagen IV levels along the dermal–epidermal junction by 52%.

Conclusion

In silico modelling and in vitro and ex vivo analyses confirmed Linefade‐mediated activation of PPAR‐α and stimulation of collagen IV synthesis.

Accelerated Barrier Repair in Human Skin Explants Induced with a Plant-Derived PPAR-α Activating Complex via Cooperative Interactions

Background

Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) govern epidermal lipid synthesis and metabolism. In skin, PPAR activation has been shown to regulate genes responsible for permeability barrier homeostasis, epidermal differentiation, lipid biosynthesis, and inflammation.

Objective

Given the known dermatologic benefits of PPARs, we set out to discover a naturally derived, multi-molecule complex that would be superior to the more commonly formulated conjugated linoleic acids (CLAs). We hypothesized that a complex may be capable of modulating PPAR-α by cooperative or multi-ligand binding interactions to accelerate skin barrier repair.

Methods

To achieve this, we assembled a novel PPAR-α agonist complex, referred to as RFV3, from a combination of small molecules routinely used in Ayurvedic medicine and accepted in cosmetic and topical over-the-counter dermatologic products. We tested RFV3’s potential as a PPAR-α agonist by evaluating its transcriptional response, ligand binding affinity to PPAR-α, gene expression profiles and barrier repair properties in human skin explant models.

Results

We assembled RFV3 by solubilizing two standardized plant extracts in a suitable solvent and induced a significant transcriptional response in PPAR-α luciferase reporter assay. Furthermore, transcriptome profiling of RFV3-treated epidermal substitutes revealed expressed genes consistent with known targets of PPAR-α, including those involved in epidermal barrier repair. In addition, in silico modeling demonstrated differential co-binding affinities of RFV3 to PPAR-α compared with those of the endogenous ligands (CLAs) and a synthetic PPAR-α agonist. Lastly, delipidated skin explant models confirmed accelerated barrier repair activity with significant increases in ceramides, filaggrin and transglutaminase-1 after treatment.

Conclusion

These findings suggest that the RFV3 complex successfully mimics a PPAR-α agonist and induces synthesis of skin barrier lipids and proteins consistent with known PPAR pathways.

Fatty Acids and their Derivatives as Renewable Platform Molecules for the Chemical Industry

Oils and fats of vegetable and animal origin remain an important renewable feedstock for the chemical industry. Their industrial use has increased during the last 10 years from 31 to 51 million tonnes annually. Remarkable achievements made in the field of oleochemistry in this timeframe are summarized herein, including the reduction of fatty esters to ethers, the selective oxidation and oxidative cleavage of C-C double bonds, the synthesis of alkyl-branched fatty compounds, the isomerizing hydroformylation and alkoxycarbonylation, and olefin metathesis. The use of oleochemicals for the synthesis of a great variety of polymeric materials has increased tremendously, too. In addition to lipases and phospholipases, other enzymes have found their way into biocatalytic oleochemistry. Important achievements have also generated new oil qualities in existing crop plants or by using microorganisms optimized by metabolic engineering.

Effect of regioisomers of hydroxystearic acids as peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor agonists to boost the anti-ageing potential of retinoids

Introduction

We report on the in vitro and ex vivo effects of chiral (R)‐10‐hydroxystearic acid (10‐HSA) compared with other mono‐hydroxystearic acid regioisomers and stearic acid (SA) together with its benefit when combined with retinol.

Methods

Following treatment with hydroxystearic acids peroxisomal proliferator‐activated receptor alpha (PPARα) activity was determined in a luciferase reporter gene assay, collagen type I was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts by immunohistochemistry, modification of the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome was studied by mass‐spectrometry‐based proteomics and collagen type III was assessed by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin.

Results

10‐HSA was the most effective PPARα agonist (15.7× induction; p < 0.001), followed by 9‐HSA (10.1× induction) and then 12‐HSA (4.9× induction) with 17‐HSA (1.7× induction) being similar to the effects of stearic acid (1.8× induction). Collagen type I levels were increased in primary human fibroblasts by 2.12× and 1.56× for 10‐HSA and 9‐HSA, respectively, in vitro with the10‐HSA being significant (p < 0.05), whereas 12‐HSA and SA had no statistical effect over the untreated control. 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA modified the intracellular fibroblast collagen proteome slightly with significant increases in collagen alpha‐1 (VI) and alpha‐3 (VI) proteins but only 10‐HSA increased levels of collagen alpha‐2 (V), alpha‐1 (III), alpha‐1 (I) and alpha‐2 (I) (all p < 0.05) with the increases being significantly different between 10‐HSA and 12‐HSA for collagen alpha‐1 (I), collagen‐3 (VI) and collagen alpha‐2 (I) (p < 0.01). Collagen type III in ex vivo skin was increased +47% (p < 0.05) by 0.05% (1.7 mM) retinol, +70% (p < 0.01) by 0.01% (0.33 mM) 10‐HSA and the combination increased levels by +240% (p < 0.01 for either ingredient).

Conclusion

Chiral (R)‐10‐HSA has been shown to be superior to 9, 12 and 17‐HSA as a PPARα agonist. Moreover, 10‐HSA stimulated collagen synthesis in monolayer fibroblast culture as assessed by proteomics and immunohistochemically. Furthermore, we also show the synergistic effects of 10‐HSA with retinol on collagen III synthesis in skin explants. These results further highlight the efficacy of 10‐HSA as a cosmetically acceptable PPARα agonist and anti‐ageing ingredient.

Novel oleate hydratases and potential biotechnological applications

Abstract

Oleate hydratase catalyses the addition of water to the CC double bond of oleic acid to produce (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid. The enzyme requires an FAD cofactor that functions to optimise the active site structure. A wide range of unsaturated fatty acids can be hydrated at the C10 and in some cases the C13 position. The substrate scope can be expanded using ‘decoy’ small carboxylic acids to convert small chain alkenes to secondary alcohols, albeit at low conversion rates. Systematic protein engineering and directed evolution to widen the substrate scope and increase the conversion rate is possible, supported by new high throughput screening assays that have been developed. Multi-enzyme cascades allow the formation of a wide range of products including keto-fatty acids, secondary alcohols, secondary amines and α,ω-dicarboxylic acids.

Key points

• Phylogenetically distinct oleate hydratases may exhibit mechanistic differences.

• Protein engineering to improve productivity and substrate scope is possible.

• Multi-enzymatic cascades greatly widen the product portfolio.

Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study

Objective

Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi‐ethnic and multi‐centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors.

Methods

Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20–34, 35–49, 50–66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity).

Results

Across ethnicities, Δ age was smallest in French assessors and largest in South African assessors. Numerically, French women were judged oldest and Chinese women youngest relative to chronological age. In younger women, Δ age was larger than in middle‐aged and older women. This effect was particularly evident when considering the interaction of women's age with assessor gender and ethnicity, independently and together, on Δ age.

Conclusion

Collectively, our findings suggest that accuracy in assessments of female age from digital portraits depends on the chronological age and ethnicity of the photographed women and the ethnicity and gender of the assessor. We discuss the findings concerning ethnic variation in skin pigmentation and visible signs of ageing and comment on implications for cosmetic science.

Biocatalysis: Enzymatic Synthesis for Industrial Applications

Biocatalysis has found numerous applications in various fields as an alternative to chemical catalysis. The use of enzymes in organic synthesis, especially to make chiral compounds for pharmaceuticals as well for the flavors and fragrance industry, are the most prominent examples. In addition, biocatalysts are used on a large scale to make specialty and even bulk chemicals. This review intends to give illustrative examples in this field with a special focus on scalable chemical production using enzymes. It also discusses the opportunities and limitations of enzymatic syntheses using distinct examples and provides an outlook on emerging enzyme classes.

(R)-10-Hydroxystearic Acid: Crystals vs. Organogel

The chiral (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid ((R)-10-HSA) is a positional homologue of both (R)-12-HSA and (R)-9-HSA with the OH group in an intermediate position. While (R)-12-HSA is one of the best-known low-molecular-weight organogelators, (R)-9-HSA is not, but it forms crystals in several solvents. With the aim to gain information on the structural role of hydrogen-bonding interactions of the carbinol OH groups, we investigated the behavior of (R)-10-HSA in various solvents. This isomer displays an intermediate behavior between (R)-9 and (R)-12-HSA, producing a stable gel exclusively in paraffin oil, while it crystallizes in other organic solvents. Here, we report the X-ray structure of a single crystal of (R)-10-HSA as well as some structural information on its polymorphism, obtained through X-ray Powder Diffraction (XRPD) and Infrared Spectroscopy (IR). This case study provides new elements to elucidate the structural determinants of the microscopic architectures that lead to the formation of organogels of stearic acid derivatives.

Recombinant Oleate Hydratase from Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 53103: Enzyme Expression and Design of a Reliable Experimental Procedure for the Stereoselective Hydration of Oleic Acid

Different microbial strains are able to transform oleic acid (OA) into 10-hydroxystearic acid (10-HSA) by means of the catalytic activity of the enzymes oleate hydratase (EC 4.2.1.53). Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 53103 performs this biotransformation with very high stereoselectivity, affording enantiopure (R)-10-HSA. In this work, we cloned, in Escherichia coli, the oleate hydratase present in the above-mentioned probiotic strain. Our study demonstrated that the obtained recombinant hydratase retains the catalytic properties of the Lactobacillus strain but that its activity was greatly affected by the expression procedure. According to our findings, we devised a reliable procedure for the hydration of oleic acid using a recombinant E. coli whole-cell catalyst. We established that the optimal reaction conditions were pH 6.6 at 28 °C in phosphate buffer, using glycerol and ethanol as co-solvents. According to our experimental protocol, the biocatalyst does not show significant substrate inhibition as the hydration reaction can be performed at high oleic acid concentration (up to 50 g/L).

Plant cell culture extract of Cirsium eriophorum with skin pore refiner activity by modulating sebum production and inflammatory response

Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti-inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α-reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin-like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum-normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne-prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.

The Fatty-Acid Hydratase Activity of the Most Common Probiotic Microorganisms

In this work, we studied the biotechnological potential of thirteen probiotic microorganisms currently used to improve human health. We discovered that the majority of the investigated bacteria are able to catalyze the hydration reaction of the unsaturated fatty acids (UFAs). We evaluated their biocatalytic activity toward the three most common vegetable UFAs, namely oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acids. The whole-cell biotransformation experiments were performed using a fatty acid concentration of 3 g/L in anaerobic conditions. Through these means, we assessed that the main part of the investigated strains catalyzed the hydration reaction of UFAs with very high regio- and stereoselectivity. Our biotransformation reactions afforded almost exclusively 10-hydroxy fatty acid derivatives with the single exception of Lactobacillus acidophilus ATCC SD5212, which converted linoleic acid in a mixture of 13-hydroxy and 10-hydroxy derivatives. Oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acids were transformed into (R)-10-hydroxystearic acid, (S)-(12Z)-10-hydroxy-octadecenoic, and (S)-(12Z,15Z)-10-hydroxy-octadecadienoic acids, respectively, usually with very high enantiomeric purity (ee > 95%). It is worth noting that the biocatalytic capabilities of the thirteen investigated strains may change considerably from each other, both in terms of activity, stereoselectivity, and transformation yields. Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 53103 and Lactobacillus plantarum 299 V proved to be the most versatile, being able to efficiently and selectively hydrate all three investigated fatty acids.