Equivalence of face and volar forearm for the testing of moisturizing and firming effect of cosmetics in hydration and biomechanical studies

A Scoping Review of Hyaluronidase Use in Managing the Complications of Aesthetic Interventions

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronidase is used as an adjunct or main treatment to manage complications associated with cosmetic hyaluronic acid (HA) filler injections such as necrosis, blindness, hypersensitivity, delayed nodules, and poor aesthetic outcomes.

OBJECTIVE

To systematically map the available evidence and identify the gaps in knowledge on the effectiveness of hyaluronidase use in managing the aesthetic complications associated with HA injections (vascular occlusion, blindness, nodules, delayed hypersensivity, granuloma, poor aesthetic outcome).

METHODS

PubMed, Medline, Embase and Cochrane databases were used up to May 2022, to look for randomized clinical trials (RCTs), clinical trials, and retrospective case-control studies reporting on the use of hyaluronidase for managing the HA filler injection complications.

RESULTS

The database search yielded 395 studies; of those 5 RCTs (all carried out in the USA) were selected (53 subjects), indicating the effectiveness of hyaluronidase for removal of un-complicated injected HA nodules (forearm, upper arm, or back skin). The follow-ups ranged from 14 days to 4 years. The amount of HA filler injected into each site varied from 0.2 to 0.4 mL. A dose dependent response was observed for most HA fillers. No major adverse reactions were reported. Overall, for removal of every 0.1 mL of HA filler they injected 1.25-37.5 units of hyaluronidase (single injections). When 3 consecutive weekly hyaluronidase injection was used much lower doses of 0.375-2.25 unit was utilised. There was no evidence in a form of RCTs, clinical trials, and retrospective case-control studies on the removal/reversal of HA injections in the facial skin, or management of over-corrections, inflammatory nodules, or tissue ischemia/necrosis associated with HA filler injection.

CONCLUSION

Based on studies on the forearm, upper arm and back skin, hyaluronidase can be used for the reversal of uncomplicated HA filler injection nodule. However, further adequately powered studies are warranted to establish the ideal treatment protocol/dose of hyaluronidase for reversal of HA filler injections in the facial region or management of complications associated with aesthetic HA injection.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE III

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Towards a modern approach to traditional use of Helichrysum italicum in dermatological conditions: In vivo testing supercritical extract on artificially irritated skin

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Helichrysum italicum has been widely used in traditional medicine to treat allergies, colds, cough, skin, liver and gallbladder disorders, inflammation, infections, and sleeplessness. Furthermore, it possesses considerable wound healing and skin protective properties, documented by several in vivo studies performed on animals. However, there is a lack of experimental evidence supporting its potential as a topical agent tested by human clinical trials.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The study aimed to investigate the skin protective activity of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric, impregnated with H. italicum extract by the integrated supercritical CO₂ extraction-supercritical solvent impregnation process.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The integrated process of supercritical CO₂ extraction of H. italicum and the impregnation of cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric was performed under 350 bar and 40 °C with and without the addition of ethanol as a cosolvent. Impregnated textile materials were tested in vivo for their bioactivity on irritated human skin. Randomized in vivo studies performed involved assays of both safety and efficacy of the impregnated textiles. The effects were evaluated using the in vivo non-invasive biophysical measurements of the following skin parameters: electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, and skin pH.

RESULTS

Both cotton gauze and polypropylene non-woven fabric were impregnated with H. italicum extracts under supercritical conditions with considerable values of the impregnation yield (1.97%-4.25%). The addition of ethanol as a cosolvent during the process caused significant changes in the incorporated extracts' impregnation yield and chemical profile. Both impregnated textile materials were safe, evaluated by their testing on the human skin with no cause of any irritation and redness. However, efficacy studies revealed that polypropylene non-woven fabric impregnated with H. italicum extract with ethanol as a cosolvent, possessed significantly greater potential for skin protection than the other investigated samples.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study demonstrated the feasibility of the combined supercritical extraction and impregnation process in developing materials for topical application based on H. italicum extract. The results of in vivo studies performed on human volunteers confirmed the suitability of H. italicum active components to be a part of human skin protective preparations because of their ability to maintain the skin unimpaired. Traditionally claimed applications as a medicinal plant capable of regenerating skin have been scientifically proven, in addition to employing green technology in obtaining the impregnated materials with a broad spectrum of utilization.

A comprehensive comparison of facial skin hydration based on capacitance and conductance measurements in Chinese women

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to compare the data of conductance and capacitance measurements of facial skin hydration and to evaluate and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches.

METHODS

We measured skin capacitance (Corneometer® CM 825) and skin conductance (Skicon-200EX®) on 30 pre-defined facial sites of 125 Chinese women, resulting in 3750 readings per device. The data were analysed and compared, and continuous colour maps were generated on a 3D avatar for capacitance, conductance, relative difference (Δ%) and correlation (R-value) by interpolating between the individual readings and converting the values to colours. This visualization allows a better interpretation of the results.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration is revealed by this approach. The similarities and discrepancies in the facial hydration maps are clearly apparent. Due to the superiority of the Skicon in measuring high hydration levels, differences in skin hydration were evident on the forehead compared with the Corneometer maps, which may be related to the more superficial measurement of the Skicon within the stratum corneum. Conversely, a greater understanding of the complexity of facial skin hydration in the nasolabial fold was obvious when using the Corneometer. The best congruence between the instruments was found at two specific but separated facial areas, one around the inner eye region and the other one on a line between the nasolabial sulcus and the oblique, lateral jaw. Interestingly, the data were not normally distributed for both instruments and they had opposite skews. All facial clusters were statistically different from each other (p < 0.001), except the cheek and jaw for the Skicon. Larger than expected percentage coefficients of variance were found for the Corneometer on some facial sites that might be explainable by differences in stratum corneum physiology and biochemistry. Corneometer values of 48 AU and Skicon values of 132 μS were taken as the cutoff for normally hydrated facial skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Both devices have their advantages and disadvantages suggesting that bio-instrumental measurement of skin hydration is actually more complicated than commonly thought and that the different facial zones and the use of multiple instrumentation have not been adequately considered.

Novel technology at hand to measure skin hydration by Biodisplay smartphone touch screen panel

Skin hydration is generally evaluated using devices that measure capacitance or conductance. A new technology (Biodisplay) was developed to provide accurate measurements of skin hydration at the contact site. This study aimed to test the reliability of the Biodisplay by comparing its performance results with those of similar devices currently used to objectively assess skin hydration. For each of the 30 participants, skin hydration was measured at each of the defined points on the forearm three times using the Biodisplay and a Hydration probe (HP), an objective measurement device of skin hydration. We also evaluated skin hydration of the arm using both tools after applying moisturizers to evaluate interferences from skin care products. The reliability and reproducibility of each device were analyzed by intraclass correlation coefficients (ICC), and the correlation of the two devices was evaluated by Pearson's correlation coefficients (PCC). The Biodisplay demonstrated moderate-to-excellent reliability (ICC: (0.741-0.980)), but lower reliability than the HP (ICC: (0.953-0.980)). The skin hydration measurements made by the two devices were demonstrated to be significantly correlated, showing moderate correlations (PCC: 0.601). The Biodisplay can provide reasonably reliable and accurate measurements for skin hydration with the strong points of portability and accessibility.

Evaluating the Efficacy of Lotion Containing Black Rice Bran (Oryza sativa L. indica) Extract as Skin Brightening Agent: A Clinical Trial

Background: Ultraviolet exposure is an extrinsic factor to initiate melanogenesis, the process of melanin formation in the skin. Nowadays, natural ingredients tend to be more prevalent in cosmetic formulations due to consumers’ concern about synthetic ingredients and the risks they may represent for human health. Rice bran, the outer layer of a rice grain, can be utilized as a skin-lightening agent. Objectives: This study aimed to determine the efficacy of a lotion containing black rice bran (Oryza sativa L. indica) ethanolic extract as a skin lightening agent. Methods: The black rice bran ethanolic extract was formulated into oil in water (o/w) lotion. In this study, 34 women applied the lotion at one side of the forearm and base placebo lotion as control at the other side of forearm. The results were tested with a paired t-test by GraphPad Prism 8.3.0 software. Results: There was a significant decrease in the melanin index and erythema index in the forearm with a lotion containing black rice bran extract (P-value < 0.0001). Conclusions: The lotion containing 10% black rice bran extract was effective as a skin lightener because it effectively reduced skin melanin production when applied topically.

Skin moisture assessment using Hydration Sensor Patches coupled with smartphones via Near Field Communication (NFC). A pilot study with the first generation of patches that allow self-recordings of skin hydration

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the potency of a new skin hydration sensor patch in the fast self-recording of skin hydration.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The Skin Hydration Sensor Patch (SHSP) turns the user's smartphone into a wireless skin moisture measuring device. The SHSP combines a capacitive measurement unit and Near Field Communication technology (NFC) for transmitting data and energy. The probe is fixed onto the back of the smartphone and pressed to the skin for a few seconds where the application immediately calculates the capacitance value. Once recorded, the probe is then immediately taken off from the skin. In a first study, this system was compared to the Corneometer^® technique, in vivo, on various skin sites of 23 healthy French women. In a second study, 20 women with moderate dry skin on face and forearm self-recorded, through the SHSP the changes in skin hydration induced by a Xanthan gel containing 3% (w/w) of Glycerol, along 24 hours. A questionnaire based on 5 types of questions was established to be filled by subjects about their perception of the use of this new system.

RESULTS

In the first study, the values recorded by the SHSP were found highly correlated with those provided by the Corneometer^® . The second study allowed to observe significant differences in skin hydration of both sites at all times, as compared to values obtained before the application of the gel. Differences between both sites were observed, the face being less hydrated than forearm. From a practical aspect, the self-recordings on the face show a higher variability (approx. 10% than those of the forearm). The questionnaire led to positive answers on almost all points.

CONCLUSION

This SHSP appears as a promising approach in the field of connected skin-related devices. As such, it opens or enlarges a new paradigm in the relationships between a consumer and a cosmetic product.

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.

Value of GPSkin for the measurement of skin barrier impairment and for monitoring of rosacea treatment in daily practice

Background

Stratum corneum hydration (SCH) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) provide useful information about skin barrier function. This study aimed to determine the value of GPSkin Pro, a new handheld device determining both SCH and TEWL, to measure skin barrier impairment and to monitor barrier function in rosacea in daily practice.

Materials and Methods

Two pilots were performed. Pilot 1: in 27 healthy participants, GPSkin SCH and TEWL were compared to Aquaflux^® and Epsilon^® values at the forearm before and after skin barrier perturbation via tapestripping. Moreover, GPSkin values were measured at both cheeks without intervention. Pilot 2: in 16 rosacea patients, GPSkin measurements were performed at the forearm, and at both cheeks before and during anti‐inflammatory treatment. They were compared to clinical symptoms and to GPSkin values from pilot 1.

Results

Pilot 1: after merging data from before and after tapestripping, a strong correlation was observed between GPSkin TEWL and Aquaflux^® (R_s = 0.9256), and GPSkin SCH and Epsilon^® (R_s = 0.8798). Pilot 2: SCH was significantly lower at the cheeks of rosacea patients compared to controls, with a normalizing trend during successful treatment. TEWL was comparable among patients and controls and did not change during treatment at all locations.

Conclusion

The GPSkin determines TEWL and SCH accurately in healthy and impaired skin barrier state and can monitor skin barrier function in rosacea during treatment. The GPSkin device is much more practical compared to previous skin barrier tools when used in clinical practice. Its further validation in other inflammatory skin diseases is recommended.

Favorable effect of creams with skimmed donkey milk encapsulated in nanoliposomes on skin physiology

The use of donkey milk has a long history in external dermal application for cosmetic and medical purposes. The encapsulation of different drugs into nanoliposomes and nutrients may have many benefits for the delivery of the targeted substance. The aim of the present study is to test creams with nanoliposomes encapsulated with skimmed donkey milk, reported in our registered patent, compared with effect of the placebo cream and the untreated skin. To investigate the effect of formulated cream, we have measured the electrical capacitance, transepidermal water loss and the skin pH value. The study included 15 healthy volunteers (11 women and 4 men). The patented creams exhibited satisfactory moisturizing properties very soon after application, while hydration was reached earlier in the spots treated with night cream. Transepidermal water loss slightly decreased only after 4 weeks of treatment in each of the spots assessed. The pH value was similar after each of the treatments. Tested creams may enhance the moisture of skin very soon after application, in this way potentially enable deeper permeation of phospholipids and essential proteins, without changing the pH. It may also contribute to additional anti-aging effects.

In vivo determination of the skin surface topography and biophysical properties of human hands: Effects of sex and hand dominance

BACKGROUND

The effect of hand dominance on the skin topography and parameters associated with skin health and aging is unknown.

METHODS

Healthy adult volunteers were recruited. The following four strata were enrolled: Group 1: male, right handed; Group 2: male, left handed; Group 3: female, right handed; and Group 4: female, left handed. The differences between groups on their surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) parameters were evaluated. These variables included (a) roughness (SER); (b) smoothness (SESM); (c) scaliness (SESC); and (d) wrinkles (SEW).

RESULTS

A total of twenty subjects were recruited, with five in each stratum. Significant differences between groups were found for SESC [F(7,31) = 2.742, P = .024, partial eta squared = 0.382] and SEW [F(7,31) = 3.705, P = .005, partial eta squared = 0.456]. An evaluation of the descriptive statistics revealed that males had a higher mean SESC value than females and a lower mean SEW value. Moreover, the dominant hand of both sexes had a higher mean SEW value than non-dominant hands.

CONCLUSIONS

Given the evidence of sex and handedness differences in wrinkle genesis and desquamation severity, these factors should be considered in the dermatological treatment and counseling of patients.

Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types

Dry skin is one of the most important concerns of consumers worldwide. Despite huge efforts over several decades, the personal care industry still does not offer a perfect solution to satisfy the unmet needs of consumers for moisturising treatments in different ethnic groups. The paucity of data for the underlying cellular and biochemical problems in, and the effects of moisturisers on photodamaged facial skin may partly explain this. Mainly, single point measurements are used to understand the effects of products on skin physiology even on surrogate skin sites such as the non‐photodamaged volar forearm. Some groups have developed discontinuous facial maps of skin biophysical properties, however, in 2014 a continuous facial analysis of bio‐instrumental evaluations was developed using a heat map approach. These maps enabled a continuous visualization of features that not only revealed an unexpected complexity of facial skin but also indicated that use of surrogate skin sites for facial skin is inappropriate. We have demonstrated that remarkable gradients of skin hydration, TEWL, skin surface pH and sebum exist within short distances across the face and the gradients are distinctive among different ethnic groups. In addition, these studies have demonstrated that darkly‐pigmented individuals do not necessarily have a better skin barrier function than their less‐pigmented counterparts and that Caucasians have a lower facial skin surface pH compared with more pigmented subjects. Overall, there are no correlations between capacitance, TEWL and skin surface pH including individual topology angle values. Novel 3D camera approaches have also been used to facilitate a more precise assignment of measurement sites and visualisation. The 3D facial colour mappings illustrated precisely the local moisturising effects of a moisturising cream. There were subtle ethnic differences in efficacy that may be related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application. A placebo‐controlled study using conductance measurements in Chinese subjects is also reported. Finally, a new whole face statistical approach has been taken to prove differences in skin parameters but also of moisturiser treatment that adds further to our understanding of the ethnic differences in skin physiology and product application. This paper reviews the background of the development and application of this methodology.

Understanding rates of genital-anal injury: Role of skin color and skin biomechanics

PURPOSE

A series of studies suggest that non-Hispanic White women have significantly more injuries than non-Hispanic Black women after sexual assault and consensual sexual intercourse. One explanation for this difference is that the degree of skin protection may vary as skin mechanics and skin pigmentation vary. The aim of the study was to determine the association among genital-anal injury, skin color, skin viscoelasticity and skin hydration in women following consensual sexual intercourse when controlling for age, smoking history, body mass index (BMI), sun exposure, and health status.

PROCEDURES

We employed a prospective cohort study design to enroll women 21 years of age or older at two study sites. They underwent two data collection sessions, baseline and follow-up after consensual sexual intercourse. Baseline genital-anal injury identification occurred with a standard forensic examination (direct visualization, nuclear staining with toluidine blue contrast, and colposcopy examination) and measurements of other variables (skin color, skin viscoelasticity, skin hydration, age, smoking history, body mass index [BMI], sun exposure, and health status). Participants were then asked to have consensual sexual intercourse with a male partner of their choice and to return for a second forensic examination for injury detection. Genital-anal injury was regressed on skin color, skin viscoelasticity, skin hydration, age, smoking history, BMI, sun exposure, and health status.

FINDINGS

We enrolled 341 participants, 88 non-Hispanic White (25.8%), 54 non-Hispanic Black (15.8%), 190 Hispanic/Latina (55.7), and 9 Other Identities (2.6%). At baseline the genital-anal injury prevalence was 57.77% and at follow-up after consensual sexual intercourse, injury prevalence was 72.73%. External genital injury prevalence was associated with increased L* (lightness) values (Adjusted Odds Ratio [AOR] = 1.98, 95% Confidence Interval [CI] = 1.03, 4.04) and decreased skin elasticity (AOR = 0.96, 95% CI = 0.93, 0.99) at baseline. Increased skin hydration was associated with a significantly higher frequency of external, internal, anal, and total genital-anal injuries (Adjusted Rate Ratio [ARR] > 1.27) at follow-up. Also at the follow-up examination, Hispanic/Latina participants had significantly lower external genital and total genital-anal injury prevalence and frequency as compared to non-Hispanic White participants (AOR < 0.40).

CONCLUSIONS

Our findings provide qualified support for the importance of skin color during the forensic examination. Women with lighter skin tones may have skin that is more easily injured than women with darker tones. In contrast, external genital injuries may be more easily identified in women with light as compared to dark skin, a situation that is important in both the health care and criminal justice systems. Additionally, women with decreased viscoelasticity and increased hydration may be more easily injured. These findings support the need to develop forensic procedures that are effective in people across the range of skin colors and to interpret forensic findings considering the innate properties of the skin.

Mapping, in vivo, the uniformity of two skin properties alongside the human face by a 3D virtual approach

OBJECTIVE

To determine the homogeneity in the distribution of two cutaneous functions (hydration and elasticity) along the entire human face.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The half faces (right or left, randomly chosen) of two groups of Caucasian women were measured on 24 different small sites (elasticity) and 41 others (hydration), by instruments of small-sized probes (Cutometer^® and Corneometer^® , respectively). Hydration of the face was recorded at different times (up to 24 h), post application of a highly hydrating product. The recorded values (left and right half faces) were further gathered and digitally positioned on a virtual feminine face and their intensity was illustrated through a colored white (lower values)-blue (higher values) scale.

RESULTS

The reconstitution of the mapping of the two measured parameters (from the left and right sides of different subjects), shows a perfect symmetry vis à vis the nose axis. However, both parameters present slightly variable but significant values along the human face. Sites from the temple are less elastic than chin or forehead. The upper and lower parts of the forehead show slight disparities in their elasticity values. Cheeks are significantly less prone at retaining their imparted hydration status (lost 2 h after application of a hydrating product) as compared to sub-ocular regions or chin that retain their hydration up to 24 h. Attempts to establish a mutual relationship between the two skin properties unsurprisingly failed.

CONCLUSION

The two studied skin properties show a slight but highly symmetric disparity along the entire human face.

Engineered Skin Tissue Equivalents for Product Evaluation and Therapeutic Applications

The current status of skin tissue equivalents that have emerged as relevant tools in commercial and therapeutic product development applications is reviewed. Due to the rise of animal welfare concerns, numerous companies have designed skin model alternatives to assess the efficacy of pharmaceutical, skincare, and cosmetic products in an in vitro setting, decreasing the dependency on such methods. Skin models have also made an impact in determining the root causes of skin diseases. When designing a skin model, there are various chemical and physical considerations that need to be considered to produce a biomimetic design. This includes designing a structure that mimics the structural characteristics and mechanical strength needed for tribological property measurement and toxicological testing. Recently, various commercial products have made significant progress towards achieving a native skin alternative. Further research involve the development of a functional bilayered model that mimics the constituent properties of the native epidermis and dermis. In this article, the skin models are divided into three categories: in vitro epidermal skin equivalents, in vitro full-thickness skin equivalents, and clinical skin equivalents. A description of skin model characteristics, testing methods, applications, and potential improvements is presented.

Cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic lamellar cream formulation on barrier function or the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in randomized proof-of-concept clinical studies

Objective

Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide‐containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans.

Methods

In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Instrumental and clinical skin assessments were performed by trained technicians. Study 1 involved tape stripping and a 5‐day no‐treatment (‘regression’) period at the end of the 4 weeks. Independent lay graders were asked to grade the skin texture of subjects in Study 2 from high‐resolution photographs.

Results

In Study 1 (n = 66), the test cream significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values on the forearm, and in the cheek area of the face, relative to baseline and compared to no treatment, and increased skin Corneometer values. The improvements were partially retained during a subsequent 5‐day period of no treatment. Increases in TEWL values on skin subjected to tape stripping were significantly lower after 4 weeks of using the test cream compared to no treatment. In Study 2 (n = 72 subjects with visible signs of ageing), there was a favourable trend in the change from baseline of a skin roughness parameter, R_a, for the test cream compared to no treatment. There were statistically significant improvements in the Fitzpatrick wrinkle score compared to no treatment, decreases in TEWL and increased Corneometer values and Cutometer values (R5 elasticity parameter). Grading of high‐resolution images failed to detect the improvements in skin texture (defined as pores, smoothness and unevenness) for the test cream vs. no treatment. No treatment‐related serious or severe adverse events were reported.

Conclusion

Twice daily application of the test cream over 4 weeks had beneficial effects on skin barrier function, moisturization, wrinkle dimensions and elasticity compared to no treatment. These studies provide proof‐of‐concept evidence and highlight the cosmetic benefit of the biomimetic lamellar cream formulation. Study registration: NCT03216265, NCT03180645.

Antiaging effects of a novel facial serum containing L-Ascorbic acid, proteoglycans, and proteoglycan-stimulating tripeptide: ex vivo skin explant studies and in vivo clinical studies in women

BACKGROUND

With age, decreasing dermal levels of proteoglycans, collagen, and elastin lead to the appearance of aged skin. Oxidation, largely driven by environmental factors, plays a central role.

AIM

The aim of this study was to assess the antiaging efficacy of a topical serum containing L-Ascorbic acid, soluble proteoglycans, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and a tripeptide in ex vivo and in vivo clinical studies.

METHODS

Photoaging and photo-oxidative damage were induced in human skin explants by artificial solar radiation. Markers of oxidative stress - reactive oxygen species (ROS), total glutathione (GSH), and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) - were measured in serum-treated explants and untreated controls. Chronological aging was simulated using hydrocortisone. In both ex vivo studies, collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans were determined as measures of dermal matrix degradation. In women aged 21-67 years, hydration was measured up to 24 hours after a single application of serum, using Corneometer and hygrometer. Subjects' perceptions of efficacy and acceptability were assessed via questionnaire after once-daily serum application for 4 weeks. Studies were performed under the supervision of a dermatologist.

RESULTS

In the photoaging study, irradiation induced changes in ROS, CPD, GSH, collagen, and elastin levels; these changes were reversed by topical serum application. The serum also protected against hydrocortisone-induced reduction in collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan levels, which were significantly higher in the serum-treated group vs untreated hydrocortisone-control explants. In clinical studies, serum application significantly increased skin moisture for 6 hours. Healthy volunteers perceived the product as efficient in making the skin brighter, more hydrated, and decreasing wrinkles and wished to continue using it. The serum was well tolerated and noncomedogenic.

CONCLUSION

The serum protected against oxidative damage and dermal protein loss caused by photo- and chronological aging in human skin explants. In-vivo, the serum hydrated skin for 6 hours, and users perceived increased skin brightness, hydration, and fewer wrinkles.

Redefining face contour with a novel anti-aging cosmetic product: an open-label, prospective clinical study

Background

Skin aging is accelerated by multiple extrinsic factors: ultraviolet radiation, smoking and pollution increase oxidative activity, damaging cellular and extracellular components such as DNA, proteins, and lipids. With age, collagen and hyaluronic acid levels decline, resulting in loss of elasticity and moisture of the skin. Over time this damage leads to characteristic signs that make the skin look older: altered facial contour, sagging skin, wrinkles, and an uneven complexion. This study evaluated the anti-aging effects of a new facial cream formulated with carnosine, Alteromonas ferment extract, crosspolymer hyaluronic acid, and a tripeptide.

Methods

An open-label intra-individual study to assess the anti-aging efficacy of the investigational product in 33 women aged 45 to 65 years. The product was applied twice daily for 56 days. Facial contour and skin deformation, elasticity, hydration, and complexion were measured with specialized equipment at baseline and days 28 and 56. Additionally, subjects completed questionnaires at days 28 and 56 on the perceived efficacy and cosmetic characteristics of the product.

Results

After 56 days of use of the investigational product, a redefining effect was observed, with a significant decrease in sagging jawline (7%). Skin was significantly more hydrated (12%), firmer (29%), and more elastic (20%) (P<0.001 for all). On complexion assessment, skin texture (a measure of skin smoothness) and spots (brown and red skin lesions) also improved significantly (12% and 6% decrease, respectively). In the subjective self-evaluation, the majority of subjects reported that the skin was visibly tightened and more elastic, flexible, and moisturized (91%, 88%, 91%, and 90%, respectively). The product was well tolerated with no adverse events reported during the study.

Conclusion

This new cosmetic product demonstrated anti-aging effects after 56 days of use, most notably a redefined facial contour and improved complexion. It is a safe and effective anti-aging product.

A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to develop a novel colour mapping approach to visualize and interpret the complexity of facial skin hydration and barrier properties of four ethnic groups (Caucasians, Indians, Chinese and Black Africans) living in Pretoria, South Africa.

METHODS

We measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance on 30 pre-defined sites on the forehead, cheek, jaw and eye areas of sixteen women (four per ethnic group) and took digital images of their faces. Continuous colour maps were generated by interpolating between each measured value and superimposing the values on the digital images.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration and skin barrier properties is revealed by these measurements and visualized by the continuous colour maps of the digital images. Overall, the Caucasian subjects had the better barrier properties followed by the Black African subjects, Chinese subjects and Indian subjects. Nevertheless, the two more darkly pigmented ethnic groups had superior skin hydration properties. Subtle differences were seen when examining the different facial sites.

CONCLUSIONS

There exists remarkable skin capacitance and TEWL gradients within short distances on selected areas of the face. These gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. In contrast to other reports, we found that darkly pigmented skin does not always have a superior barrier function and differences in skin hydration values are complex on the different parts of the face among the different ethnic groups.

An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs

Skin aging is caused by several factors. Ultraviolet (UV) exposure as well as oxidative stress elevates inflammatory mediators causing degradation of the extracellular matrix, which is regarded as the major cause of skin wrinkles, one of the signs of aging. Topical applications of active ingredients protect against dermal photodamage and scavenge radicals that can delay skin aging. Matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors against degradation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronan are the key strategy to combat cutaneous aging. In addition, active ingredients with the efficacy to enhance extracellular matrix production, including those with UV protection efficacy, play an important role in protecting the skin from aging. Naturally derived compounds for combating skin wrinkles are gaining more interest among the consumers as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier. This article, therefore, briefly addresses the causes of skin aging and extensively summarizes on herbs appraisal for skin wrinkles treatment. Therefore, delaying aging of skin using the functional herbs would maintain the individual's appearance with high esthetic and psychosocial impacts.

Characterization, sensorial evaluation and moisturizing efficacy of nanolipidgel formulations

BACKGROUND

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) have been widely studied for cosmetic and dermatological applications due to their favourable properties that include the formation of an occlusive film on the skin surface that reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase in water content in the skin which improves the appearance on healthy human skin and reduces symptoms of some skin disorders like eczema.

OBJECTIVE

The main objective of this study was the development of semisolid formulations based NLC with argan oil or jojoba oil as liquid lipids, by addition of Carbopol®934 or Carbopol®980 as gelling agents, followed by comparison between instrumental analysis and sensorial evaluation and in vivo efficacy evaluation.

METHODS

Nanostructured lipid carriers dispersions were produced by the ultrasound technique, and to obtain a semisolid formulation, gelling agents were dispersed in the aqueous dispersion. Particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were determined. Instrumental characterization was performed by rheological and textural analysis; the sensorial evaluation was also performed. Finally, skin hydration and TEWL were studied by capacitance and evaporimetry evaluation, respectively.

RESULTS

Particles showed a nanometric size in all the analysed formulations. All the gels present pseudoplastic behaviour. There is a correspondence between the properties firmness and adhesiveness as determined by textural analysis and the sensory evaluation. The formulations that showed a greater increase in skin hydration also presented appropriate technological and sensorial attributes for skin application.

CONCLUSIONS

Nanolipidgel formulations with the addition of humectants are promising systems for cosmetic application with good sensory and instrumental attributes and moisturizing efficacy.

In Vivo skin hydration and anti-erythema effects of Aloe vera, Aloe ferox and Aloe marlothii gel materials after single and multiple applications

Objective:

To investigate the skin hydrating and anti-erythema activity of gel materials from Aloe marlothiiA. Berger and A. ferox Mill. in comparison to that of Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe vera) in healthy human volunteers.

Materials and Methods:

Aqueous solutions of the polisaccharidic fractions of the selected aloe leaf gel materials were applied to the volar forearm skin of female subjects. The hydration effect of the aloe gel materials were measured with a Corneometer^® CM 825, Visioscan^® VC 98 and Cutometer^® dual MPA 580 after single and multiple applications. The Mexameter^® MX 18 was used to determine the anti-erythema effects of the aloe material solutions on irritated skin areas.

Results:

The A. vera and A. marlothii gel materials hydrated the skin after a single application, whereas the A. ferox gel material showed dehydration effects compared to the placebo. After multiple applications all the aloe materials exhibited dehydration effects on the skin. Mexameter^® readings showed that A. vera and A. ferox have anti-erythema activity similar to that of the positive control group (i.e. hydrocortisone gel) after 6 days of treatment.

Conclusion:

The polysaccharide component of the gel materials from selected aloe species has a dehydrating effect on the skin after multiple applications. Both A. vera and A. ferox gel materials showed potential to reduce erythema on the skin similar to that of hydrocortisone gel.

Bicelles: lipid nanostructured platforms with potential dermal applications

Bicelles emerge as promising membrane models, and because of their attractive combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility, they become new targets in skin research. Bicelles are able to modify skin biophysical parameters and modulate the skin's barrier function, acting to enhance drug penetration. Because of their nanostructured assemblies, bicelles have the ability to penetrate through the narrow intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum of the skin to reinforce its lipid lamellae. The bicelle structure also allows for the incorporation of different molecules that can be carried through the skin layers. All of these characteristics can be modulated by varying the lipid composition and experimental conditions. The remarkable versatility of bicelles is their most important characteristic, which makes their use possible in various fields. This system represents a platform for dermal applications. In this review, an overview of the main properties of bicelles and their effects on the skin are presented.

Anti-aging efficacy of topical formulations containing niosomes entrapped with rice bran bioactive compounds

CONTEXT

Rice [Oryza sativa L. (Gramineae)] bran is a rich source of phytochemicals. Its oil also contains several bioactive components that exhibit antioxidative properties such as ferulic acid (F), γ-oryzanol (O), and phytic acid (P) which can be a new source of cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the anti-aging effects of the gel and cream containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The semi-purified rice bran extracts containing F, O, and P which indicated the growth stimulation of human fibroblasts and the inhibition of MMP-2 by sulforhodamine B and gelatin zymography, respectively, were entrapped in niosomes by supercritical carbon dioxide fluid (scCO(2)) and incorporated in gel and cream formulations. The skin hydration, elasticity, thickness and roughness, and pigmentation in human volunteers after treated with these gel and creams were investigated by corneometer, cutometer, visiometer, and mexameter, respectively.

RESULTS

Gel and cream containing the semi-purified rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes gave no sign of erythema and edema detected within 72 h on the shaved rabbit skin by the closed patch test investigated by mexameter and visual observation, respectively. These formulations also demonstrated higher hydration enhancement and improvement of skin lightening, thickness, roughness, and elasticity on the skin of 30 human volunteers within the 28-day treatment not more than 9, 27, 7, 3, and 3 times, respectively.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

The formulations containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds gave superior clinical anti-aging activity which can be applied as a novel skin product.

Terahertz pulsed imaging in vivo: measurements and processing methods

This paper presents a number of data processing algorithms developed to improve the accuracy of results derived from datasets acquired by a recently designed terahertz handheld probe. These techniques include a baseline subtraction algorithm and a number of algorithms to extract the sample impulse response: double Gaussian inverse filtering, frequency-wavelet domain deconvolution, and sparse deconvolution. In vivo measurements of human skin are used as examples, and a comparison is made of the terahertz impulse response from a number of different skin positions. The algorithms presented enables both the spectroscopic and time domain properties of samples measured in reflection geometry to be better determined compared to previous calculation methods.

Hydrating effects of moisturizer active compounds incorporated into hydrogels: in vivo assessment and comparison between devices

BACKGROUND

Water is an important factor on the appearance and function of the skin and, when dehydrated, it becomes rough and flaky. The measurement of stratum corneum hydration is widely employed to verify the moisture effect of topical products.

AIMS

This study has evaluated in vivo the stratum corneum hydration, by the electrical measurements of skin, after treatment with different moisturizers presented in gel base. MoistureMeter and Corneometer were used as bio-instruments. Urea, the herbal extract (Imperata cylindrical), the NMF components and the carbohydrate derivate compound (xylityglucoside, anhydroxylitol, and xylitol) were used as the active substances.

METHODS

The study protocol was carried out according to the three-factor factorial design. The gels were applied on both forearms of eight female volunteers. However, each volunteer had one untreated skin area as the skin moisture control. The electrical capacitance of the skin was measured by both instruments in different times: after application (0 time), 30, 60, 120, 240 and 360 min.

RESULTS

Gel base, gel containing herbal extract, and gel containing NMF components statistically have equal moisture effect measurements, according to both bio-instruments. However, the values obtained for urea, carbohydrate derivate compound, and untreated skin (control) have statically different results in both devices.

CONCLUSION

The gel containing urea and the carbohydrate derivate compound gel have promoted the most intense moisture effect compared with the other formulations. The measurements of hydration between the devices generated different absolute values; however, the statistical analysis has shown similar precision among the measurements.

Effects of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin [corrected]

Background

Very few over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ products have been subjected to a rigorous double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of efficacy. Previously we have shown that application of a cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product to photoaged skin under occlusion for 12 days can stimulate the deposition of fibrillin-1. This observation infers potential to repair and perhaps clinically improve photoaged skin.

Objective

We examined another similar over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product using both the patch test assay and a 6-month double-blind, randomized controlled trial (RCT), with a further 6-month open phase to assess clinical efficacy in photoaged skin.

Methods

For the patch test, a commercially available test product and its vehicle were applied occluded for 12 days to photoaged forearm skin (n=10) prior to biopsy and immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1; all-trans retinoic acid (RA) was used as a positive control. Sixty photoaged subjects were recruited to the RCT (test product, n = 30 vs. vehicle, n = 30; once daily for 6 months, face and hands) with clinical assessments performed at recruitment and following 1, 3 and 6 months of use. Twenty-eight volunteers had skin biopsies (dorsal wrist) at baseline and at 6 months treatment for immunohistochemical assessment of fibrillin-1 (test product, n=15; vehicle, n=13). All volunteers received the test product for a further 6 months. Final clinical assessments were performed at the end of this open period.

Results

In the 12-day patch test assay, we observed significant immunohistological deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated with the test product and RA compared with the untreated baseline (P=0·005 and 0·015, respectively). In the clinical RCT, at 6 months, the test product produced statistically significant improvement in facial wrinkles as compared to baseline assessment (P = 0·013), whereas vehicle-treated skin was not significantly improved (P = 0·11). After 12 months, there was a significant benefit of the test product over that projected for the vehicle (70% vs. 33% of subjects improving; combined Wilcoxon rank tests, P=0·026). There was significant deposition of fibrillin-1 in skin treated for 6 months with the test product [(mean ± SE) vehicle 1·84 ± 0·23; test product 2·57 ± 0·19; ancovaP=0·019).

Conclusions

In a double-blind RCT, an over-the-counter cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product resulted in significant clinical improvement in facial wrinkles, which was associated with fibrillin-1 deposition in treated skin. This study demonstrates that a cosmetic product can produce significant improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and further supports the use of fibrillin-1 as a robust biomarker for the repair of photoaged dermis.

Aplicação de métodos de biofísica no estudo da eficácia de produtos dermocosméticos

O trabalho aborda a aplicação dos métodos de biofísica no estudo de eficácia de produtos dermocosméticos. A qualidade de um produto cosmético engloba a segurança de seu uso, a estabilidade da formulação, o aspecto, o sensorial e a sua eficácia. As técnicas de biofísica têm sido amplamente empregadas na avaliação do efeito de formulações dermocosméticas, principalmente devido ao fato de possibilitarem a avaliação de produtos em suas reais condições de uso, ou seja, na pele humana. A comprovação dos efeitos de produtos cosméticos e a elucidação de seu mecanismo de ação por meio de protocolos experimentais devidamente elaborados, que utilizem as técnicas de biofísica da pele, dentre outras, tornam-se de fundamental importância e, assim, a serem amplamente exploradas e ainda bastante desenvolvidas, visando à melhoria da qualidade de vida dos usuários de tais produtos.

Kinetics of moisturizing and firming effects of cosmetic formulations

The assessment of cosmetic efficacy is rarely performed in studies comparing different concentrations of active compounds. The aim of the present study was to determine the skin hydrating and the skin firming dose-response effects of cosmetic formulations enriched in compounds derived from algae and fish collagen. A series of factors were studied including the type of formulation (cream or serum), the concentration in active ingredients, the effect of repetitive applications, as well as any residual effect of the formulations after stopping their applications. The serum enriched in marine compounds showed a better moisturizing effect in short term. The cream appeared more active later, particularly following repeat applications. A sustained tensor (firming) effect was observed during treatment with both the lotion and the cream. However, no remnant firming effect was perceived after stopping treatment.