The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles

Fast, sensitive LC-MS resolution of α -hydroxy acid biomarkers via SPP-teicoplanin and an alternative UV detection approach

Enantioseparation of α -hydroxy acids is essential since specific enantiomers of these compounds can be used as disease biomarkers for diagnosis and prognosis of cancer, brain diseases, kidney diseases, diabetes, etc., as well as in the food industry to ensure quality. HPLC methods were developed for the enantioselective separation of 11 α -hydroxy acids using a superficially porous particle-based teicoplanin (TeicoShell) chiral stationary phase. The retention behaviors observed for the hydroxy acids were HILIC, reversed phase, and ion-exclusion. While both mass spectrometry and UV spectroscopy detection methods could be used, specific mobile phases containing ammonium formate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, respectively, were necessary with each approach. The LC-MS mode was approximately two orders of magnitude more sensitive than UV detection. Mobile phase acidity and ionic strength significantly affected enantioresolution and enantioselectivity. Interestingly, higher ionic strength resulted in increased retention and enantioresolution. It was noticed that for formate-containing mobile phases, using acetonitrile as the organic modifier usually resulted in greater enantioresolution compared to methanol. However, sometimes using acetonitrile with high ammonium formate concentrations led to lengthy retention times which could be avoided by using methanol as the organic modifier. Additionally, the enantiomeric purities of single enantiomer standards were determined and it was shown that almost all standards contained some levels of enantiomeric impurities.

Potential role of the cell-penetrating peptide-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2-patterned peptide in novel cosmeceutical skin product development

AIM

This study aimed to investigate and verify the effect of cell-penetrating peptide (CPP)-conjugated soluble N-ethylmaleimide-sensitive factor attachment protein receptor (SNARE) motif of vesicle-associated membrane protein 2 (VAMP2)-patterned peptide (INCI name: Acetyl sh-Oligopeptide-26 sh-Oligopeptide-27 SP, trade name: M.Biome-BT) on improving skin function in vitro.

METHODS

The cytotoxicity of CPP-conjugated SNARE motif of VAMP2-patterned peptide (CVP) was investigated using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay against B16-F10 cells and human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a reconstructed skin irritation test. The anti-wrinkle activity of M.Biome-BT was determined by assessing the release of norepinephrine and dopamine in PC-12 cells via ELISA. The skin-whitening effects of CVP were assessed in B16-F10 cells by measuring the intra- and extracellular melanin contents and expression levels of melanin production-related genes, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2.

RESULTS

CVP is not cytotoxic to B16-F10 cells and HDFs, and no skin irritation was observed. CVP treatment considerably diminished K+ -induced norepinephrine and dopamine secretion compared with the non-treated control group (62% and 40%, respectively). Additionally, the inhibition ability of CVP on norepinephrine and dopamine release was comparable to that of botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT/A). CVP also increased intracellular melanin content in a dose-dependent manner, whereas extracellular melanin content decreased (76%-85%). However, CVP treatment did not affect the mRNA expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. These results suggest that CVP does not inhibit melanin production; however, it may induce a whitening effect by inhibiting melanin transport.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, our findings indicate that CVP could be used as an active and safe cosmeceutical ingredient for antiaging applications.

3D Printed Hollow Microneedles for Treating Skin Wrinkles Using Different Anti-Wrinkle Agents: A Possible Futuristic Approach

Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have some drawbacks including allergic skin reactions, cumbersome treatment procedures, and inefficient penetration of the anti-wrinkle products into the skin due to the high resistance of stratum corneum. Bearing this in mind, the cosmetic industry has exploited the patient-compliant technology of microneedles (MNs) to treat skin wrinkles, developing several products based on solid and dissolvable MNs incorporated with antiwrinkle formulations. However, drug administration via these MNs is limited by the high molecular weight of the drugs. Hollow MNs (HMNs) can deliver a wider array of active agents, but that is a relatively unexplored area in the context of antiwrinkle technology. To address this gap, we discuss the possibility of bioinspired 3D printed HMNs in treating skin wrinkles in this paper. We compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options, as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization.

Beneficial Effects of Young Coconut Juice on Increasing Skin Thickness, Enhancing Skin Whitening, and Reducing Skin Wrinkles in Ovariectomized Rats

It has been previously demonstrated in light microscopic and immunohistochemical studies that ovariectomized rats receiving young coconut juice at 100 mL/kg BW showed much better wound healing and improved skin complexion. Nevertheless, it was found that young coconut juice at 100 mL/kg BW/day caused unfavorable side effects, such as glycogen deposition in the liver. Therefore, in the current study, 3 lower doses (10, 20, and 40 mL/kg BW/day) were optimized, and the ultrastructure was further investigated. Compared to normal rats, all the parameters regarding skin changes, including epidermal and dermal thickness, the number of hair follicles, the diameters of collagen fibrils, perimeters, and nuclei of fibroblast and keratinocyte cells, and ultrastructural changes in keratinocyte and fibroblast cells were significantly reduced in ovariectomized rats. Those parameters in the ovariectomized rats were restored to normal by injecting estradiol benzoate or by feeding young coconut juice to the rats, where the effect was found to be dose-related but not in the case of all the parameters. In most cases, a dose of young coconut juiceof 40 mL/kg BW/day was the optimal dose. The results suggest that young coconut juice may be as effective as estradiol benzoate in reducing skin atrophy/aging, probably as a selective estrogen receptor moderator.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Nanoemulsion Stabilized by Safe Surfactin from Bacillus Subtilis as a Multifunctional, Custom-Designed Smart Delivery System

The developing field of bio-nanotechnology aims to advance colloidal research via the introduction of multifunctional nanoparticles to augment the dermal effectiveness of active substances. Self-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SEDDS)-isotropic mixtures of oils, surfactants, solvents and co-solvents or surfactants-are attracting interest in the cosmeceutical field. As part of this study, SEDDS systems containing vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin were developed, whereby the bioavailability of the active compounds increased by enhancing their permeability to deeper layers of the skin. A composition consisting of 50% surfactin from Bacillus subtilis, 30% Transcutol and 20% oil phase was designed to encapsulate the active substances, i.e., vitamin C or vitamin E and curcumin, contained in the oil phase. The developed carriers were characterized by average particle sizes of 69-183 nm. The formulations with the vitamins were found to be physically and chemically stable for 6 months. Transdermal tests were carried out, showing that the carriers enable the transport of active substances deep into the skin, stopping at the dermis border. The formulations with vitamin C and vitamin E reduced the discoloration, the vascular lesions, and the depth of the wrinkles on the tested skin, which can be useful in cosmetics in the treatment of problem skin, including capillary and sensitive skin.

Simultaneous nanoencapsulation of lipoic acid and resveratrol with improved antioxidant properties for the skin

Cutaneous aging is intimately related to redox imbalance, which is mainly caused by ultraviolet radiation exposure. The aim of the present investigation was to develop lipid-core nanocapsules for the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid aiming to improve the chemical stability and photostability of the compounds, as well as their antioxidant properties. Lipid-core nanocapsules were developed and characterized according to their mean size, size distribution, zeta potential, pH value, drug content, encapsulation efficiency, release profile, stability under storage, photostability and skin permeation profile. In vitro antioxidant activity was analyzed by lipid peroxidation method and the in vitro cytotoxicity by MTT assay and cellular count, using BALB/c-3T3 fibroblasts. It was possible to co-nanoencapsulate resveratrol and lipoic acid into particles of average diameter close to 200 nm, low polydispersity index and encapsulation efficiencies around 90 %. Nanoencapsulation increased the substances stability under storage and photostability under UVA light exposure, besides controlling substances release. The actives were able to permeate a skin model membrane when nanoencapsulated, with a faster permeation of lipoic acid. The antioxidant activity was potentiated by the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid, without signs of cytotoxicity to fibroblasts. Therefore, the co-nanoencapsulation of resveratrol and lipoic acid is promising for application in topical formulations aiming antioxidant effects.

Tea-polyphenol treated skin collagen owns coalesced adaptive-hydration, tensile strength and shape-memory property

Tea-polyphenol, as non-toxic skincare, even a therapeutic agent, was extensively studied from chemical, biological and physiological perspectives. This study reveals physical intelligences of a tea-polyphenol treated skin collagen (TP-treated SC) through a material-approach. Compared to untreated one, the TP-treated SC shows resistance to over-swelling and dehydration damage. There exists an inflection point in stress value of TP-treated SC below extension of 25%. Such promptly transformation from flexibility to stiffness is self-adaptive stretch behavior. Moreover, TP-treated SC owns water responsive shape-memory property. These effects are attributed to polyphenol as plasticizer with chains crosslinked to multi-sites on collagen-fibers as netpoints. The discovery, mechanism and method, which have not been reported before, may help to develop new shape memory device, skincare products, as well as provides insights into the physiological behavior of collagen contained tissue.

Naphtho-Gamma-Pyrones Produced by Aspergillus tubingensis G131: New Source of Natural Nontoxic Antioxidants

Seven naphtho-gamma-pyrones (NγPs), including asperpyrone E, aurasperone A, dianhydroaurasperone C, fonsecin, fonsecinone A, fonsecin B, and ustilaginoidin A, were isolated from Aspergillus tubingensis G131, a non-toxigenic strain. The radical scavenging activity of these NγPs was evaluated using ABTS assay. The Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity on the seven isolated NγPs ranged from 2.4 to 14.6 μmol L^-1. The toxicity and ability of the NγPs to prevent H₂O₂-mediated cell death were evaluated using normal/not cancerous cells (CHO cells). This cell-based assay showed that NγPs: (1) Are not toxic or weakly toxic towards cells and (2) are able to protect cells from oxidant injuries with an IC₅₀ on H₂O₂-mediated cell death ranging from 2.25 to 1800 μmol mL^-1. Our data show that A. tubingensis G131 strain is able to produce various NγPs possessing strong antioxidant activities and low toxicities, making this strain a good candidate for antioxidant applications in food and cosmetic industries.

Recent advances in the anti-aging effects of phytoestrogens on collagen, water content, and oxidative stress

Skin undergoes degenerative changes as it ages, which include the loss of elasticity, reductions in the epidermal thickness and collagen content, elastic fiber degeneration, and increased wrinkling and dryness. Skin aging can be significantly delayed by the administration of estrogen. Estrogen deficiency following menopause results in atrophic skin changes and the acceleration of skin aging. Estrogen administration has positive effects on human skin by delaying or preventing skin aging manifestations, but the use of estrogen replacement is a risk factor for breast and uterine cancer. Phytoestrogens are a large family of plant‐derived molecules possessing various degrees of estrogen‐like activity; they exhibit agonist or antagonist estrogenic properties depending on the tissue. These molecules could be ideal candidates to combat skin aging and other detrimental effects of hypoestrogenism. In this paper, we review the effects of phytoestrogens on human skin and the mechanisms by which phytoestrogens can alleviate the changes due to aging.

Cellular factories for coenzyme Q10 production

Coenzyme Q₁₀ (CoQ₁₀), a benzoquinone present in most organisms, plays an important role in the electron-transport chain, and its deficiency is associated with various neuropathies and muscular disorders. CoQ₁₀ is the only lipid-soluble antioxidant found in humans, and for this, it is gaining popularity in the cosmetic and healthcare industries. To meet the growing demand for CoQ₁₀, there has been considerable interest in ways to enhance its production, the most effective of which remains microbial fermentation. Previous attempts to increase CoQ₁₀ production to an industrial scale have thus far conformed to the strategies used in typical metabolic engineering endeavors. However, the emergence of new tools in the expanding field of synthetic biology has provided a suite of possibilities that extend beyond the traditional modes of metabolic engineering. In this review, we cover the various strategies currently undertaken to upscale CoQ₁₀ production, and discuss some of the potential novel areas for future research.

Industrialization of lipid nanoparticles: From laboratory-scale to large-scale production line

This work aimed at developing a large-scale modular production line, which referred to coenzyme Q₁₀ loaded-NLC as well as its continuous and scalable emulsification and homogenization process. The production line exhibited good control over the emulsification and homogenization process and enabled the particle size of NLC below 210nm at a throughput of 25kg/h (for lipid solution at a flow rate of 0.4kg/min). Among the several process parameters investigated, the size of the NLC was mainly influenced by the pre-emulsification temperature, homogenization pressure and homogenization. Suitable emulsification temperature (70°C), homogenization pressure (600, 800bar), and homogenization cycle (3, 4cycles) resulted in relatively smaller particles. These results proved that coenzyme Q₁₀, a model active, had been successfully loaded into the NLC. Meanwhile, the large-scale production line can be effectively applied for continuous and modular production of NLC. The line had modern networking features-essential in the Internet age-and a modular design that was easily modified and upgraded. In addition, the long-term stability over 6month was monitored at 30°C and at 40°C to assess a potential effect of the laboratory scale and large scale on stability. All batches at room temperature and below were stable, and only a negligible increase in size was observed.

Comparative alteration in atherogenic indices and hypocholesteremic effect of palm oil and palm oil mill effluent in normal albino rats

The comparative hypocholesteremic effect of feeding palm oil and palm oil mill effluent (POME) was investigated in male albino rats. Diets were prepared and designed to contain 50% of energy as carbohydrate, 35% as fat, and 15% as protein. Groups of six rats were each fed one of these diets, while a group was fed pelletized mouse chow which served as the control. Feeding on palm oil and POME led to a significant increase (p < 0.05) in serum total cholesterol, triglyceride, and vLDL. Feeding on POME led to significant increase (p < 0.05) in cholesterol, triglyceride and LDL levels in brain tissues. Increased hepatic LDL level was also observed in POME fed rats. Except for hepatic triglyceride and tissues HDL level, a rather reduced level of the studied lipids was observed in the serum and tissues of palm oil fed rats compared to POME. These results indicate the protective potentials of palm oil against cardiovascular disease, as well as hyperlipidemia that characterize obesity and hypertension; as compared to its effluent.

Use of Carnosine for Oxidative Stress Reduction in Different Pathologies

The main properties and biological effects of the antioxidant carnosine, the natural dipeptide β-alanyl-L-histidine, are considered. Data on the effective use of carnosine in different pathologies are presented. Special attention is paid to issues of use of carnosine in neurologic and mental diseases, in alcoholism as well as in physiological states accompanied by activation of free-radical processes and formation of oxidative stress.

Polyphenolics-Phospholipid Complexes as Natural Cosmetic Ingredients: Properties and Application

Phospholipids and polyphenolic phytoconstituents may form specific molecular complexes (polyphenolics-phospholipid complexes, phyto-phospholipid complexes) with definite chemical structure, solubility, thermal and spectroscopic characteristics. Furthermore, such specific molecular entities may self-associate into spherical unilamellar vesicles (phyto-vesicles, herbosomes) with size at nano- or microscale. Phyto-phospholipid complexation was recognised as a promising strategy to improve formulation performances and enhance efficiency of herbal polyphenolics with cosmetic relevance in comparison with pure phytoconstituents. This concise review summarizes the current knowledge on preparation methods, physico-chemical properties and aspects of application of the selected phyto-complexes as cosmetic active ingredients.

Development and characterisation of a novel chitosan-coated antioxidant liposome containing both coenzyme Q10 and alpha-lipoic acid

This article describes the physicochemical properties of chitosan-coated liposomes containing skin-protecting agents, coenzyme Q10 and alpha-lipoic acid (CCAL). CCAL had a spherical shell-core structure and liposomes inverted the surface charge from negative to positive after coating with chitosan. Compared with the uncoated liposome, CCAL had higher zeta potential, larger droplet size and long-term stability. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) study showed that the driving force for chitosan coating the liposomes was enhanced via hydrogen bonding and ionic bond force between the chitosan and the alpha-lipoic acid. While the encapsulation efficiency (EE) of alpha-lipoic acid also increased by interacting with the chitosan shell. In vitro antioxidant activity study showed an excellent hydroxyl radical scavenging activity of CCAL. In vitro release study displayed a sustained drug release, and in vitro penetration studies promoted the accumulation of drugs in rabbit skin.

Histological investigation of the effect of soybean (Glycine max) extracts on the collagen layer and estrogen receptors in the skin of female rats

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effects of soybean extracts obtained using different extraction methods on the skin of female rats.

METHOD

A total of 64 female Sprague-Dawley rats were divided into 8 equal groups. Various extracts were administered to the female rats by oral gavage for one month. The groups comprised carboxymethyl cellulose-free control, carboxymethyl cellulose-plus control, 100-mg/kg n-hexane extract, 200-mg/kg n-hexane extract, 100-mg/kg ethyl acetate extract, 200-mg/kg ethyl acetate extract, 100-mg/kg ethanol extract and 200-mg/kg ethanol extract groups. The thickness of the collagen layer and the number of estrogen receptor-positive cells were evaluated.

RESULTS

All the extract-treated groups showed a statistically significant decrease in the number of estrogen receptor-positive cells compared with the control groups. Regarding the thickness of the collagen layer, only the 200-mg/kg ethyl acetate extract-treated group showed a significant increase compared with the control groups (p<0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Our data suggest that oral intake of three different total soybean extracts might have positive estrogenic effects on the skin and that only a high-dose ethyl acetate extract can increase the expression of collagen, which may prove to be beneficial for postmenopausal facial skin.

Synthesis of novel adamantyl and homoadamantyl-substituted β-hydroxybutyric acids

Several new adamantyl and homoadamantyl-substituted [Formula: see text]-hydroxybutyric acids, 2-[2-(1-adamantyl)ethyl]-3-hydroxybutyric acid (2), 2-(3-homoadamantyl)-3-hydroxybutyric acid (3), and 2-(1-homoadamantyl)-3-hydroxybutyric acid (4), analogues of the 2-(1-adamantyl)-3-hydroxybutyric acid (1), have been prepared as mixtures of diastereoisomers using selective reduction of corresponding [Formula: see text]-keto esters or aldol condensation of the corresponding carboxylic acid and acetaldehyde. The rearrangement of adamantylmethyl and 3-homoadamantyl groups provided entry to both 3-homoadamantyl and 1-homoadamantyl-substituted hydroxy acids 3 and 4, respectively. The relative configurations of diastereoisomers 3 and 4 have been determined by NMR spectroscopy comparing the values of coupling constants. Adamantyl-substituted [Formula: see text]-hydroxybutyric acid 2 has also been prepared in enantiomerically pure form by Evan's asymmetric synthesis and the absolute configuration has been determined by X-ray crystallography. Contrary to the long-chain acid 2, the attempt to prepare short-chain hydroxy acids 1 and 4 by the same method failed indicating pronounced sensitivity of the used method to the vicinity of the bulky cage group.

Genistein aglycone, a soy-derived isoflavone, improves skin changes induced by ovariectomy in rats

BACKGROUND AND PURPOSE

Ovariectomy accelerates age-related skin changes as adequate oestrogen levels are required to control structural integrity and functional capacity of skin. Genistein, a soy-derived isoflavone, has been tested in anti-ageing cosmetic preparations with interesting results on skin elasticity, photoaging and skin cancer prevention. We investigated the effects of genistein aglycone and compared them with systemic raloxifene hydrochloride and 17-α-ethinyloestradiol on skin changes in aged, ovariectomized (OVX) rats.

EXPERIMENTAL APPROACH

Six months after ovariectomy, rats were randomly allocated to different groups and treated, daily, with genistein aglycone (1 and 10mg·kg(-1) s.c.), raloxifene hydrochloride (0.05 and 0.5mg·kg(-1) s.c.) or 17-α-ethinyloestradiol (0.003 and 0.03mg·kg(-1) s.c.) for 12 weeks. Controls were untreated OVX and sham OVX rats. At the end of the treatment period, a skin biopsy was carried out and skin samples were assessed for molecular, histological and functional changes.

KEY RESULTS

Skin samples of untreated OVX rats showed a decrease in TGF-β1, VEGF, MMP-2, MMP-9, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP)-1 and TIMP-2 compared with sham OVX rats. All the treatments significantly restored this depressed molecular profile revealed in OVX rats. Genistein aglycone, 1mg·kg(-1) , also significantly increased the thickness of collagen and breaking strength of skin in the OVX rats.

CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS

Relatively long-term, systemic treatment with genistein aglycone shows comparable efficacy to oestrogen in reversing some molecular, histological and functional changes of the skin associated with ovariectomy in aged rats. This suggests that genistein aglycone might be an effective alternative therapy for the management of age-related skin changes in postmenopausal women.

The art and science of new advances in cosmeceuticals

The need for cosmeceutical research is ever present. This article has tried to highlight the chemistry of botanic extracts in the current marketplace and review the best research available. In some ways, more questions have been raised than answered; yet, ideas for intellectual discourse have been provided. Herein lies the physician cosmeceutical challenge.

Topically applied KTTKS: a review

Skin ageing is an irreversible process that is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The possibility of arresting or delaying skin ageing represents a large research area and has a big potential in the cosmetics sector. Recently, the polypeptide lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has attracted a lot of attention and it features in numerous up-market cosmetic products where it has become erroneously associated with the term 'pentapeptide'. In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials.

Genistein aglycone improves skin repair in an incisional model of wound healing: a comparison with raloxifene and oestradiol in ovariectomized rats

BACKGROUND AND PURPOSE

Oestrogen loss at menopause is frequently related to poor wound healing. Genistein has been tested in anti-ageing cosmetic preparations with interesting results on skin health. Here, we investigated the effects of the genistein aglycones, given systemically, in an incisional model of wound healing, compared to systemic oestradiol and raloxifene.

EXPERIMENTAL APPROACH

Six months after ovariectomy (OVX), rats were randomly assigned to groups of 12 animals each and treated daily with genistein aglycone (1 and 10 mg kg(-1) s.c.), raloxifene hydrochloride (0.05 and 0.5 mg kg(-1) s.c.) or 17-alpha-ethinyl oestradiol (0.003 and 0.03 mg kg(-1) s.c.) for 12 weeks. Untreated OVX and sham OVX rats were used as controls. Then, 14 or 7 days before the end of the experiment, an incisional wound healing procedure was performed and skin specimens were collected to evaluate molecular, histological and functional measurements.

KEY RESULTS

Seven and fourteen days after wounding, samples from OVX rats showed a decrease in transforming growth factor-beta1, tissue transglutaminase 2 and vascular endothelial growth factor compared to samples from sham OVX rats. Oestradiol, raloxifene and genistein all significantly modified this decrease, but the lowest genistein dose exerted a greater effect than the other treatments. Moreover, the lowest dose of genistein was the most effective in improving skin healing and wound tensile strength.

CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS

Genistein aglycone might be an alternative therapy for the management of skin wound healing.

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique

The objective of this study was to evaluate formulations containing adenosine to reduce periorbital lines and glabellar frowns in a blind, randomised, placebo-controlled study. One hundred twenty-six female volunteers between 45 and 65 years of age fulfilled inclusion criteria for periorbital lines. They were provided with two of three products (cream with adenosine, dissolvable film with adenosine or placebo), to be applied to the periorbital area on each side of the face (84 subjects per product). Eighty-four of these subjects also fulfilled the inclusion criteria for glabellar frowns, and received placebo or cream with adenosine to be applied to the glabellar area. Products were applied twice daily for 2 months, and evaluation was performed under dermatological supervision at 0, 3 and 8 weeks using Fast Optical in vivo Topometry of human Skin (FOITS) analysis to describe skin profile. Both adenosine-containing products led to significant improvements in skin smoothness in the periorbital area. Improvements were evidenced after 3 weeks of product application as measured by Ra and Rz parameters using the FOITS technique, and were steadily confirmed after 2 months, despite severe climatic conditions and independently of the analysis technique that was used with the FOITS data. Adenosine-containing cream also significantly improved glabellar frowns. This study demonstrates the potential beneficial effects of adenosine-containing products on crow's feet and glabellar facial wrinkles.

Kinetics of moisturizing and firming effects of cosmetic formulations

The assessment of cosmetic efficacy is rarely performed in studies comparing different concentrations of active compounds. The aim of the present study was to determine the skin hydrating and the skin firming dose-response effects of cosmetic formulations enriched in compounds derived from algae and fish collagen. A series of factors were studied including the type of formulation (cream or serum), the concentration in active ingredients, the effect of repetitive applications, as well as any residual effect of the formulations after stopping their applications. The serum enriched in marine compounds showed a better moisturizing effect in short term. The cream appeared more active later, particularly following repeat applications. A sustained tensor (firming) effect was observed during treatment with both the lotion and the cream. However, no remnant firming effect was perceived after stopping treatment.

Randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study on the clinical efficacy of Tricutan on skin firmness

Tricutan is a combination product of herbal extracts traditionally used for treatment of skin conditions, together with dimethylaminoethanol. The effectiveness of Tricutan in improving skin firmness and elasticity in photoaged facial skin was examined in a randomised, placebo-controlled, double-blind, split-face study in 28 women, 34-67 years old. Treatment with Tricutan and placebo was given for 4 weeks. Skin firmness and elasticity was evaluated using the speed of propagation of ultrasound shear waves in the skin as end point (Reviscometer RVM 600). The study was completed by 25 women. The Tricutan treatment resulted in a significantly reduced propagation speed indicating increased firmness. There was no immediate effect by Tricutan application on propagation speed. At self evaluation the women evaluated the treatment effect of Tricutan to be significantly better than the treatment effect of placebo. The clinical evaluation also showed Tricutan to give a significantly better treatment result than placebo. Tolerance to Tricutan was generally good. However, three women did not complete the study because of mild irritative contact dermatitis. The results show that Tricutan can increase skin firmness both objectively and subjectively. Further studies are warranted, especially to investigate if Tricutan can delay the need for surgical face-lift procedures.

Coenzyme Q_{10} effects on manganese superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase in the hairless mouse skin induced by ultraviolet B irradiation

Coenzyme Q_{10} (CoQ_{10}) is a naturally occurring antioxidant and a prominent component of mitochondrial electron transport chain. In the present study, we investigated the effect of CoQ_{10} nanoparticle against photoaging using immunohistochemistry and Western blot analysis in the hairless mouse skin induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation (300 mJ/cm;{2}, 3 min/day for 21 days). In the UVB-irradiated distilled water (DW)-treated group, manganese superoxide dismutase (SOD2) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) immunoreactivity and their protein levels in the skin were significantly lower than those in the control group. However, SOD2 and GPx immunoreactivity and their protein levels in the skin of the UVB-irradiated CoQ_{10}-treated group were higher than those in the UVB-irradiated DW-treated group. GPx activity in the skin in the UVB-irradiated DW-treated group significantly decreased compared to that in the control group; whereas GPx activity in the UVB-irradiated CoQ_{10}-treated group was similar to that in the control group. These results suggest that CoQ_{10} strongly inhibits oxidative stress in the skin induced by UVB via increasing SOD2 and GPx.

Purification of coenzyme Q10 from fermentation extract: high-speed counter-current chromatography versus silica gel column chromatography

High-speed counter-current chromatography (HSCCC) is applied to the purification of coenzyme Q(10) (CoQ(10)) for the first time. CoQ(10) was obtained from a fermentation broth extract. A non-aqueous two-phase solvent system composed of heptane-acetonitrile-dichloromethane (12:7:3.5, v/v/v) was selected by analytical HSCCC and used for purification of CoQ(10) from 500 mg of the crude extract. The separation yielded 130 mg of CoQ(10) at an HPLC purity of over 99%. The overall results of the present studies show the advantages of HSCCC over an alternative of silica gel chromatography followed by recrystallization. These advantages extend to higher purity (97.8% versus 93.3%), recovery (88% versus 74.3%) and yield (26.4% versus 23.4%). An effort to avoid the toxic, expensive solvent CH(2)Cl(2) was unsuccessful, but at least its percentage is low in the solvent system.

Extracellular pH Controls NHE1 expression in epidermis and keratinocytes: implications for barrier repair

We have previously shown that the Na+/H+ antiporter (NHE1) is an essential endogenous pathway responsible for stratum corneum (SC) acidification. Since the epidermis must re-establish its epidermal barrier after acute barrier perturbations, we asked whether the NHE1 was, in turn, regulated by changes in barrier status. We found that in vivo epidermal NHE1 expression was upregulated within hours of barrier disruption. We next asked whether NHE1 was regulated by barrier status per se, or by the SC alkalinization that accompanies barrier perturbation. NHE1 was upregulated by alkalinizing SC pH, whereas this antiporter was downregulated by acidifying SC pH, independent of changes in barrier status. Moreover, acidifying SC pH overrode the effects of barrier break in regulating NHE1 expression, suggesting that SC alkalinization is the major stimulus for increased NHE1 expression. Finally, we confirmed that the keratinocyte NHE1 antiporter is regulated by extracellular pH independent of barrier status, by demonstrating that NHE1 was upregulated in cultured keratinocytes exposed to pH 8.3 medium and downregulated in cultured keratinocytes exposed to pH 6.3 medium. These data suggest that the keratinocyte NHE1 is regulated by extracellular pH. SC barrier break also upregulates NHE1 expression, but this response seems to be mediated by concomitant changes in SC pH.