The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial

In Vitro and In Vivo Anti-Aging Effect of Coffee Berry Nanoliposomes

Encapsulation of bioactive compounds in the liposome system provides several advantages, such as enhancing the stability and lowering the toxicity of active compounds. Coffee berry extract (CBE) has previously been established to have in vitro anti-aging properties and to retard the aging of human skin. The purposes of this study were to encapsulate CBE in nanoliposomes and to assess its stability and in vitro anti-aging potential in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF), as well as in healthy human skin. In the HDF model, anti-aging potential was determined by nitric oxide (NO) and collagenase inhibition assays and a superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity assay, whereas in healthy human skin (in vivo), the skin elasticity and brightness were examined. First, liposomal CBE (L-CBE) was created with a particle size of 117.33 ± 2.91 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.36 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of -56.13 ± 1.87 mV. The percentages of encapsulation efficacy (%EE) and loading efficacy (%LE) were 71.26 ± 3.12% and 2.18 ± 0.18%, respectively. After undergoing a 12-week stability test, the L-CBE retained more phenolic content than the free CBE when stored at 4 °C, room temperature, and 45 °C. Compared to free CBE, the L-CBE demonstrated a more consistent, elevated, and prolonged release of phenolics from the lipid system. In human dermal fibroblasts, L-CBE showed lower toxicity, and at its maximum nontoxic concentration (10 mg/mL), it exhibited slightly higher anti-aging effects than CBE, including NO inhibition, enhanced SOD activity, and anti-collagenase activities. In clinical trials (30 volunteer subjects), none of the participants' skin was irritated when the L-CBE, the CBE, or base creams were applied. After 2 weeks of application, the L-CBE and CBE creams both demonstrated an improvement in skin elasticity and a reduction in melanin levels, and after 4 weeks, L-CBE cream showed a significantly greater improvement in skin elasticity and lightening. The results demonstrate that the encapsulation of the CBE in liposomal systems could increase its stability and skin penetration, reduce its toxicity, and maintain its anti-aging effect, which is powerful enough to be exploited in anti-aging and whitening agents for application in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals.

"The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article"

INTRODUCTION

Skin pores are enlarged openings of the pilosebaceous follicles that can be affected by age, gender, genetics, exposure to UV light, ethnicity, and sebum secretion. Many treatment modalities reduce facial pores' count and area, including oral and topical medications as well as different wavelengths of lasers. Finding a safe and cost-effective treatment protocol is necessary since facial pores are one of the main reasons for cosmetic complaints.

AIM

This review compares available treatment options for reducing facial pores' number and area according to the published clinical trials.

METHODS

A search on PubMed and Google Scholar was performed. Nineteen published clinical trials regarding treatment options for facial pores were included and reviewed based on the authors' clinical experience.

RESULTS

A total number of 591 cases (83.7% female) aged 18-80 years were included. Three assessment methods including digital imaging, physician assessment, and patient' satisfaction were used in the studies to evaluate the therapeutic efficacy of each modality. Furthermore, combining different modalities increased the efficacy of reducing pores' size and number. Mild, reversible burning and erythema were common side effects.

CONCLUSION

Multiple sessions and combination therapies improve facial pores' area and number. In young patients, the focus should be on controlling sebum production, while in older patients, the focus should be on rejuvenation in addition to the control of sebum production.

Photoprotective properties of new derivatives of kinetin

The chronic exposure of skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes adverse dermal reactions, such as erythema, sunburn, photoaging, and cancer, by altering several signalling pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation, and DNA damage. One of the possible UV light protection strategies is the use of dermal photoprotective preparations. The plant hormone kinetin (N6-furfuryladenine; KIN) exhibits antioxidant and anti-senescent effects in human cells. Topically applied KIN also reduced some of the clinical signs of photodamaged skin. To improve the biological activities of KIN, several derivatives have been recently prepared and their beneficial effects on cell viability of skin cells exposed to UVA and UVB light were screened. Two potent candidates, 6-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)methylamino-9-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)purine (HEO) and 6-(thiophen-2-yl)methylamino-9-(tetrahydrofuran-2-yl)purine (HEO6), were identified. Here the effects of KIN, its N9-substituted derivatives the tetrahydropyran-2-yl derivative of KIN (THP), tetrahydrofuran-2-yl KIN (THF), HEO and HEO6 (both THF derivatives) on oxidative stress, apoptosis and inflammation in UVA- or UVB-exposed skin cell was investigated. Human primary dermal fibroblasts and human keratinocytes HaCaT pre-treated with the tested compounds were then exposed to UVA/UVB light using a solar simulator. All compounds effectively prevented UVA-induced ROS generation and glutathione depletion in both cells. HEO6 was found to be the most potent. All compounds also reduced UVB-induced caspase-3 activity and interleukin-6 release. THP and THF exhibited the best UVB protection. In conclusion, our results demonstrated the UVA- and UVB-photoprotective potential of KIN and its derivatives. From this point of view, they seem to be useful agents for full UV spectrum protective dermatological preparations.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Aging Activities of Callus Culture from Three Rice Varieties

The aims of this study were to induce calli from the seeds of three rice varieties (Hommali 105, Munpu, and Niawdum) and investigate their anti-aging potential. First, rice seeds were cultured on a Murashige and Skoog medium (MS medium) supplemented with 2 mg/L of 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), 1 mg/L of 1-Naphthalene acetic acid (NAA), and 1 mg/L of 6-Benzylaminopurine (BAP). After three weeks, the calli were extracted with ethanol. Then, their phenolic contents were determined by spectrophotometer and the amino acids were identified by ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC). Their cytotoxicity, anti-oxidant (potassium ferricyanide reducing power assay (PFRAP), DPPH radical scavenging assay (DPPH), lipid peroxidation inhibition (LPO), and superoxide dismutase activity (SOD)), and anti-aging (keratinocyte proliferation, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammation, and anti-tyrosinase) activities were also investigated. Munpu callus (385%) was obtained with a higher yield than Hommali (322%) and Niawdum (297%) calli. The results revealed that the phenolic and amino acid contents were enhanced in the calli. Moreover, the calli were rich in glutamic acid, alanine, and gamma aminobutyric acid (GABA). The callus extracts showed no cytotoxic effects at a concentration of equal to or lower than 0.25 mg/mL. The highest anti-oxidant activities (PFRAP (0.81 mg AAE/mL), DPPH (68.22%), LPO (52.21%), and SOD (67.16%)) was found in Munpu callus extract. This extract also had the highest keratinocyte proliferation (43.32%), anti-collagenase (53.83%), anti-inflammation (85.40%), and anti-tyrosinase (64.77%) activities. The experimental results suggest that the amounts of bioactive compounds and anti-aging activities of rice seeds can be enhanced by the induction of callus formation.

Effect of Coffee Berry Extract on Anti-Aging for Skin and Hair—In Vitro Approach

The aging process encompasses gradual and continuous changes at the cellular level that slowly accumulate with age. The signs of aging include many physiological changes in both skin and hair such as fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, hair thinning and hair loss. The aim of the current study was to investigate the anti-aging potential of coffee berry extract (CBE) on human dermal fibroblast (HDF) and hair follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells. Coffee berry was extracted by 50% ethanol and determined for chemical constituents by HPLC technique. Cytotoxicity of the extract was examined on both cells by MTT assay. Then, HDF cells were used to evaluate antioxidant properties by using superoxide dismutase activity (SOD) and nitric oxide inhibition as well as anti-collagenase inhibition assays. The effectiveness of anti-hair loss properties was investigated in HFDP cells by considering cell proliferation, 5α-reductase inhibition (5AR), and growth factor expression. The results showed that caffeine and chlorogenic acid were identified as major constituents in CBE. CBE had lower toxicity and cell proliferation than caffeine and chlorogenic acid on both cells. CBE showed SOD and nitric oxide inhibition activities that were higher than those of caffeine but lower than those of chlorogenic acid. Interestingly, CBE had the highest significant anti-collagenase activity, and its 5AR inhibition activity was comparable to that of chlorogenic acid, which was higher than caffeine. CBE also stimulated hair-related gene expression, especially insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1), keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). The results confirmed that CBE provided anti-aging activity on both skin and hair cells and could be beneficial for applications in cosmeceuticals.

Cytokinins: Wide-Spread Signaling Hormones from Plants to Humans with High Medical Potential

Nature is a rich source of biologically active novel compounds. Sixty years ago, the plant hormones cytokinins were first discovered. These play a major role in cell division and cell differentiation. They affect organogenesis in plant tissue cultures and contribute to many other physiological and developmental processes in plants. Consequently, the effect of cytokinins on mammalian cells has caught the attention of researchers. Many reports on the contribution and potential of cytokinins in the therapy of different human diseases and pathophysiological conditions have been published and are reviewed here. We compare cytokinin effects and pathways in plants and mammalian systems and highlight the most important biological activities. We present the strong profile of the biological actions of cytokinins and their possible therapeutic applications.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

The pathogenesis of melasma and implications for treatment

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a complex and poorly understood disorder, with high rates of treatment failure and recurrences.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to review the current knowledge of the pathogenesis of melasma and apply this knowledge to clinical implications on relevant therapeutic interventions.

METHODS

A systematic PubMed search was performed using the search term "((melasma[Text Word]) OR facial melanosis[Text Word]) AND (pathogenesis OR causality[MeSH Terms])" for articles published between 1990 and 2020. Included articles were then evaluated by two authors and assessed for relevant pathomechanistic pathways, after which they were divided into groups with minimal overlap. We then reviewed current treatment modalities for melasma and divided them according to the involved pathomechanistic pathway.

RESULTS

A total of 309 search results were retrieved among which 76 relevant articles were identified and reviewed. Five main pathomechanisms observed in melasma were identified: (1) melanocyte inappropriate activation; (2) aggregation of melanin and melanosomes in dermis and epidermis; (3a) increased mast cell count and (3b) solar elastosis; (4) altered basement membrane; and (5) increased vascularization. Treatment modalities were then divided based on these five pathways and detailed in 6 relevant tables.

CONCLUSION

The pathophysiology of melasma is multifactorial, resulting in treatment resistance and high recurrence rates. This wide variety of pathomechanisms should ideally be addressed separately in the treatment regimen in order to maximize results.

The Potential of 2-aza-8-Oxohypoxanthine as a Cosmetic Ingredient

In this study, we verified the effects of 2-aza-8-oxohypoxanthine (AOH) on human epidermal cell proliferation by performing DNA microarray analysis. Cell proliferation was assessed using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay, which measures mitochondrial respiration in normal human epidermal keratinocyte (NHEK) cells. Gene expression levels were determined by DNA microarray analysis of 177 genes involved in skin aging and disease. AOH showed a significant increase in cell viability at concentrations between 7.8 and 31.3 μg/mL and a significant decrease at concentrations above 250 μg/mL. DNA microarray analysis showed that AOH significantly increased the gene expression of CLDN1, DSC1, DSG1, and CDH1 (E-cadherin), which are involved in intercellular adhesion and skin barrier functioning. AOH also up-regulated the expression of KLK5, KLK7, and SPIMK5, which are proteases involved in stratum corneum detachment. Furthermore, AOH significantly stimulated the expression of KRT1, KRT10, TGM1, and IVL, which are considered general differentiation indicators, and that of SPRR1B, a cornified envelope component protein. AOH exerted a cell activation effect on human epidermal cells. Since AOH did not cause cytotoxicity, it was considered that the compound had no adverse effects on the skin. In addition, it was found that AOH stimulated the expression levels of genes involved in skin barrier functioning by DNA microarray analysis. Therefore, AOH has the potential for practical use as a cosmetic ingredient. This is the first report of efficacy evaluation tests performed for AOH.

The plant hormone kinetin in disease therapy and healthy aging

It has been more than 60 years since the discovery of kinetin, the first known member of a group of plant hormones called cytokinins. In this review we summarize the health-promoting activity of kinetin in animal systems, ranging from cells cultured in vitro through invertebrates to mammals. Kinetin has been shown to modulate aging, to delay age-related physiological decline and to protect against some neurodegenerative diseases. We also review studies on its mechanism of action, as well as point out gaps in our current knowledge.

Kinetin Improves Barrier Function of the Skin by Modulating Keratinocyte Differentiation Markers

Background

Kinetin is a plant hormone that regulates growth and differentiation. Keratinocytes, the basic building blocks of the epidermis, function in maintaining the skin barrier.

Objective

We examined whether kinetin induces skin barrier functions in vitro and in vivo.

Methods

To evaluate the efficacy of kinetin at the cellular level, expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers was assessed. Moreover, we examined the clinical efficacy of kinetin by evaluating skin moisture, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin surface roughness in patients who used kinetin-containing cream. We performed quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction to measure the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers in HaCaT cells following treatment. A clinical trial was performed to assess skin moisture, TEWL, and evenness of skin texture in subjects who used kinetin-containing cream for 4 weeks.

Results

Kinetin increased involucrin, and keratin 1 mRNA in HaCaT cells. Moreover, use of a kinetin-containing cream improved skin moisture and TEWL while decreasing roughness of skin texture.

Conclusion

Kinetin induced the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers, suggesting that it may affect differentiation to improve skin moisture content, TEWL, and other signs of skin aging. Therefore, kinetin is a potential new component for use in cosmetics as an anti-aging agent that improves the barrier function of skin.

The Plant Hormone Cytokinin Confers Protection against Oxidative Stress in Mammalian Cells

Modulating key dynamics of plant growth and development, the effects of the plant hormone cytokinin on animal cells gained much attention recently. Most previous studies on cytokinin effects on mammalian cells have been conducted with elevated cytokinin concentration (in the μM range). However, to examine physiologically relevant dose effects of cytokinins on animal cells, we systematically analyzed the impact of kinetin in cultured cells at low and high concentrations (1nM-10μM) and examined cytotoxic and genotoxic conditions. We furthermore measured the intrinsic antioxidant activity of kinetin in a cell-free system using the Ferric Reducing Antioxidant Power assay and in cells using the dihydroethidium staining method. Monitoring viability, we looked at kinetin effects in mammalian cells such as HL60 cells, HaCaT human keratinocyte cells, NRK rat epithelial kidney cells and human peripheral lymphocytes. Kinetin manifests no antioxidant activity in the cell free system and high doses of kinetin (500 nM and higher) reduce cell viability and mediate DNA damage in vitro. In contrast, low doses (concentrations up to 100 nM) of kinetin confer protection in cells against oxidative stress. Moreover, our results show that pretreatment of the cells with kinetin significantly reduces 4-nitroquinoline 1-oxide mediated reactive oxygen species production. Also, pretreatment with kinetin retains cellular GSH levels when they are also treated with the GSH-depleting agent patulin. Our results explicitly show that low kinetin doses reduce apoptosis and protect cells from oxidative stress mediated cell death. Future studies on the interaction between cytokinins and human cellular pathway targets will be intriguing.

Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review

Facial rejuvenation can be categorized into skincare and facial contouring. Research and development of cosmeceuticals is aimed at addressing the major signs of photoaging: wrinkles, dyschromia, and sallowness. Assessment of photoaging comes in clinical and photographic forms; a photonumeric scale developed by Griffiths et al. has been assured of its validity and reliability for the assessment of severity of photoaging in qualitative studies. Treatment of photoaging comes in two categories: preventive and reversal of signs; whilst sunfactors are the most efficient and essential in preventing photodamage, research and development of cosmeceuticals for facial rejuvenation has been robust, thanks to several landmark studies in the last fifty years, funded by some of the forerunners in contemporary cosmetic industry. Stem cell research remains the current forerunner in research concerning cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, high-quality, randomized control trials remain scarce within the contemporary literature, and more research and trials without funding by the industry are required to give rise to impartial comparisons between various cosmeceutical products. The "perfect cream" for facial rejuvenation remains elusive.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study.

METHOD

Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness.

RESULTS

Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

[Skin aging and evidence-based topical strategies]

Anti-aging in dermatology primarily focuses on the prevention of skin aging with UV protection (clothing and sunsceens), free radical scavengers (synthetic or botanic), and cell-protecting agents such as vitamin B3. For the correction of signs of early skin aging, retinoic acid derivatives in dermatological prescriptions are the best studied substances. Topical hormonal prescriptions are also an option if UV damage has not been the leading culprit for aging. Chemical peeling leads to a marked increase in collagen formation, the deaper the better. Ingredients in cream preparations can reduce superficial skin folds (polyphenols, amino acid peptides). Modulators of regular pigmentation are important for anti-aging preparations. Growth factors (plant extracts, recombinant growth factors) are not thoroughly studied regarding the cost-benefit and risk ratio. Complex precedures such as photodynamic therapy have an impact on the appearance of aged skin.

Do cytokinins function as two-way signals between plants and animals? Cytokinins may not only mediate defence reactions via secondary compounds, but may directly interfere with developmental signals in insects

Cytokinins are plant hormones that have, among many other functions, senescence-modulatory effects in plant tissue. This is evident not only from biochemical data, but is vividly illustrated in the "green island" phenotype in plant leaves caused by cytokinins released for example by leaf mining insects or microbial pathogens. It is beyond doubt that, in addition to their roles in plants, cytokinins also provoke physiological and developmental effects in animals. It is hypothesized that the recently much discussed modification of plant metabolism by insects and associated microbes via cytokinin signals has a counterpart in direct cytokinin signalling that interferes with the animals' hormonal systems and impacts their population dynamics.

Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology

Niacinamide, an amide of vitamin B3 (niacin), is a hydrophilic endogenous substance. Its effects after epicutaneous application have long been described in the literature. Given a sufficient bioavailability, niacinamide has antipruritic, antimicrobial, vasoactive, photo-protective, sebostatic and lightening effects depending on its concentration. Within a complex metabolic system niacinamide controls the NFκB-mediated transcription of signalling molecules by inhibiting the nuclear poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase-1 (PARP-1). Niacinamide is a well-tolerated and safe substance often used in cosmetics. Clinical data for its therapeutic use in various dermatoses can increasingly be found in the literature. Although the existing data are not sufficient for a scientifically founded evaluation, it can be stated that the use of niacinamide in galenic preparations for epicutaneous application offers most interesting prospects.

Kinetin inhibits apoptosis of aging spleen cells induced by D-galactose in rats

Kinetin (Kn) is a cytokinin growth factor that exerts several anti-aging and antioxidant effects on cells and organs. To investigate the mechanism underlying apoptotic events in aging cells induced by D-galactose (D-gal), we examined the effect of Kn delivered via nuchal subcutaneous injection on D-gal-induced aging and apoptosis in rats. Our results showed that interleukin (IL)-2 levels and mitochondrial membrane potential (ΔΨm) were decreased by Kn in aging rats while IL-6 production and apoptosis increased. In addition, the expression of anti-apoptotic Bcl-2 was low while that of Bax was high in the aging group. After treated with Kn, compared with aging group, there showed obvious difference in Kn group with elevated IL-2, proliferation index, Bcl-2, ΔΨm and decreased IL-6 and Bax in splenic lymphocyte. Based on these results, we concluded that Kn can effectively protect the rat spleen from aging, apoptosis, and atrophy.

A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma

Background. Multiple modalities have been used in the treatment of melasma with variable success. Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and is able to decrease the transfer of melanosomes. Objective. To evaluate the therapeutic effect of topical niacinamide versus hydroquinone (HQ) in melasma patients. Patients and Methods. Twenty-seven melasma patients were randomized to receive for eight weeks 4% niacinamide cream on one side of the face, and 4% HQ cream on the other. Sunscreen was applied along the observation period. They were assessed by noninvasive techniques for the evaluation of skin color, as well as subjective scales and histological sections initially and after the treatment with niacinamide. Results. All patients showed pigment improvement with both treatments. Colorimetric measures did not show statistical differences between both sides. However, good to excellent improvement was observed with niacinamide in 44% of patients, compared to 55% with HQ. Niacinamide reduced importantly the mast cell infiltrate and showed improvement of solar elastosis in melasma skin. Side effects were present in 18% with niacinamide versus 29% with HQ. Conclusion. Niacinamide induces a decrease in pigmentation, inflammatory infiltrate, and solar elastosis. Niacinamide is a safe and effective therapeutic agent for this condition.

Top 10 botanical ingredients in 2010 anti-aging creams

New developments in the realm of skin rejuvenation such as phytotherapy are at an astounding increasing pace in the cosmeceutical market. Yet, many of these products that are classified as cosmeceuticals are tested less vigorously and do not have to be approved by the Food and Drug Administration to establish efficacy and safety. Thus, as clinicians, we must ask the question, "Is there science-based evidence to validate the mechanism of these new treatments?" We assessed the top anti-aging creams currently on the market specifically evaluating their botanical ingredients. Some of the most common botanicals that are hot off the market are: Rosmarinus officinalis, Vitis vinifera (grape seed extract), Citronellol, Limonene, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose), Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice extract), Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, Diosgenin (wild yam), N6 furfuryladenine (kinetin), and Ergothioneine. Through researching each of these botanical ingredients, we have concluded that randomized controlled trials are still needed in this area, but there is promise in some of these ingredients and science to validate them.

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide

Niacinamide is known to have effectiveness on sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti-wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing niacinamide. A randomized, placebo-controlled, split face study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese females who had wrinkles in the eye areas. The tested cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide was applied on wrinkles of one side for 8 weeks, and a control cosmetic without niacinamide on another site. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) doctors' observation and photographs based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (Ra value) using skin replica. This cosmetic showed marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001). Wrinkle grades in the tested area significantly reduced more than pre-application (P < 0.001) and the control (P < 0.001). Reduction in Ra value on the tested area was more than pre-application (P < 0.01) and the control site (P < 0.05) with significant differences. Only one subject stopped the study with minimal irritation. These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.