Contamination versus preservation of cosmetics: a review on legislation, usage, infections, and contact allergy

Chemicals of concern in select packaged hair relaxers available on the Kenyan market: an examination of ingredient labels and measurement of pH

Background

There is an emerging interest in the investigation of hair relaxers as important sources of exposure to chemicals of concern (CoCs) and their associated adverse health effects. We focused on documentation of CoCs by examining labels of selected relaxers currently available on the market in Nakuru and Embu Counties, Kenya and measured the pH profiles to ensure compliance with Kenya Bureau of Standards.

Methods

We enrolled 746 women aged 15-50 years in a cross-sectional study, which ascertained participants' sociodemographic characteristics, personal care products use in the last 7-14 days and ever use of hair dyes and chemical relaxers including the brand names of products used. Based on participants' questionnaire responses and product availability at beauty shops and supermarkets, we purchased 22 different relaxer products. The label of each product was reviewed and we recorded relaxer strength, manufacturer and location, listed ingredients, and other claims. To identify CoCs, we cross-checked the list of ingredients against the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics' (CSC) Red List and European Union's prohibited and restricted substances (Annex II and III respectively), Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetics. The pH profiles of each product were determined using a benchtop pH meter.

Results

Twenty-seven CoCs were documented upon examination with each relaxer listing more than one CoC. Thirteen out of 27 (48.2%) were fragrance chemicals with d-limonene/limonene and linalool, each being listed as an ingredient in 9 products. Fourteen (63.6%) relaxers had undisclosed ingredients listed as 'fragrance' and/or 'parfum'. Six of the identified CoCs are classified as Tier 1 (Do not use for everyone) per CSC Red List while 14.8% (4) are prohibited and 55.6% (15) are restricted substances per EU regulations. The pH values of the relaxers were within Kenya Bureau of Standards required range of 11-13.

Conclusion

These findings create awareness of CoCs listed on labels of selected hair relaxers. This justifies the need for consumer education on potentially harmful chemicals and their associated risks. Further, our findings justify the need for laboratory study to evaluate and quantify CoCs that are listed as well as those that are not listed on the label.

Tracking Water Transport with Short-Wave Infrared: Kinetic Phase Diagrams, Dissolution, and Drying

Short-wave infrared (SWIR) imaging has been extensively used in defense applications but remains underutilized in the study of soft materials and the broader consumer product industry. Water molecules absorb around ∼1450 nm, making moisture-rich objects appear black, whereas surfactants and other common molecules in consumer products do not absorb and provide a good contrast. This experimental study showcases the varied capabilities of SWIR imaging in tracking water transport in soft material systems by analyzing dissolution dynamics, tracking phase transitions (when combined with cross-polarized optical imaging), and monitoring drying kinetics in the surfactant and polymer solutions. The dynamic phase evolution to equilibria of a binary aqueous solution of a nonionic surfactant hexaethylene glycol monododecyl ether (C12E6) is presented. The influence of confined hydration in dynamic-diffusive interfacial transport capillaries was investigated by tracking the micellar to hexagonal phase transition concentration (C*). The effects of varying concentrations of an industrially relevant additive─monovalent common salt (NaCl) on the radial (2D) dissolution of lamellar-structured concentrated sodium lauryl ether sulfate (70 wt % SLE1S) pastes was studied. An equation was developed to estimate the radial dissolution coefficients based on total dissolution time and surfactant concentrations in the sample and solvent. Water loss was investigated by tracking the drying of aqueous poly(vinyl) alcohol films. In situ monitoring of drying kinetics is used to draw correlations between the solution viscosity and drying time. SWIR imaging has already revealed previously inaccessible insights into surfactant hydration and holds the potential to become a turnkey method in tracking water transport, enabling better quality control and product stability analysis.

Formulating Sustainable Emulsions: Mandelic Acid and Essential Oils as Natural Preservatives

Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin.

Evaluation of Biotechnological Active Peptides Secreted by Saccharomyces cerevisiae with Potential Skin Benefits

Biotechnological active peptides are gaining interest in the cosmetics industry due to their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-collagenase (ACE) effects, as well as wound healing properties, making them suitable for cosmetic formulations. The antimicrobial activity of peptides (2-10 kDa) secreted by Saccharomyces cerevisiae Ethanol-Red was evaluated against dermal pathogens using broth microdilution and challenge tests. ACE was assessed using a collagenase activity colorimetric assay, antioxidant activity via spectrophotometric monitoring of nitrotetrazolium blue chloride (NBT) reduction, and anti-inflammatory effects by quantifying TNF-α mRNA in lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-exposed dermal fibroblasts. Wound healing assays involved human fibroblasts, endothelial cells, and dermal keratinocytes. The peptides (2-10 kDa) exhibited antimicrobial activity against 10 dermal pathogens, with the Minimum Inhibitory Concentrations (MICs) ranging from 125 µg/mL for Staphylococcus aureus to 1000 µg/mL for Candida albicans and Streptococcus pyogenes. In the challenge test, peptides at their MICs reduced microbial counts significantly, fulfilling ISO 11930:2019 standards, except against Aspergillus brasiliensis. The peptides combined with MicrocareⓇ SB showed synergy, particularly against C. albicans and A. brasilensis. In vitro, the peptides inhibited collagenase activity by 41.8% and 94.5% at 250 and 1000 µg/mL, respectively, and demonstrated antioxidant capacity. Pre-incubation with peptides decreased TNF-α expression in fibroblasts, indicating anti-inflammatory effects. The peptides do not show to promote or inhibit the angiogenesis of endothelial cells, but are able to attenuate fibrosis, scar formation, and chronic inflammation during the final phases of the wound healing process. The peptides showed antimicrobial, antioxidant, ACE, and anti-inflammatory properties, highlighting their potential as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in skincare, warranting further optimization and exploration in cosmetic applications.

New Natural and Sustainable Cosmetic Preservative Based on Sugarcane Straw Extract

Preservative ingredients in cosmetic formulations undertake a necessary role in the prevention of microbial contamination. In this field, there is an unmet need for natural, sustainable, and effective preservatives. Thus, the main goal of this work was to evaluate a sugarcane straw extract-based ingredient and investigate its potential as a preservative for cosmetic applications. Different ingredients were developed using several cosmetic solvents to improve the solubility of the extracted compounds. The antimicrobial activity was assessed against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans. The 1,2-hexanediol was the solvent that allowed us to achieve the ingredient (20% dry extract dispersed in 25% 1,2-hexanediol in water) with the best antimicrobial performance, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of between 5% and 3% (I). The 5% (w/v) concentration of this ingredient complied with the USP51 standards for cosmetic preservatives. Real-time (25 °C, 65% RH) and accelerated stability (40 °C, 75% RH) tests were conducted to determine the ingredient stability, and it was found that one month of storage time at room temperature would be ideal for better ingredient stability and performance in terms of composition, pH, color, and antioxidant activity.

Multisampling-based docking reveals Imidazolidinyl urea as a multitargeted inhibitor for lung cancer: an optimisation followed multi-simulation and in-vitro study

Lung Cancer is one of the deadliest cancers, responsible for more than 1.80 million deaths annually worldwide, and it is on the priority list of WHO. In the current scenario, when cancer cells become resistant to the drug, making it less effective leaves the patient in vulnerable conditions. To overcome this situation, researchers are constantly working on new drugs and medications that can help fight drug resistance and improve patients' outcomes. In this study, we have taken five main proteins of lung cancer, namely RSK4 N-terminal kinase, guanylate kinase, cyclin-dependent kinase 2, kinase CK2 holoenzyme, tumour necrosis factor-alpha and screened the prepared Drug Bank library with 1,55,888 compounds against all using three Glide-based docking algorithms namely HTVS, standard precision and extra precise with a docking score ranging from -5.422 to -8.432 Kcal/mol. The poses were filtered with the MM\GBSA calculations, which helped to identify Imidazolidinyl urea C11H16N8O8 (DB14075) as a multitargeted inhibitor for lung cancer, validated with advanced computations like ADMET, interaction pattern fingerprints, and optimised the compound with Jaguar, producing satisfied relative energy. All five complexes were performed with MD Simulation for 100 ns with NPT ensemble class, producing cumulative deviation and fluctuations < 2 Å and a web of intermolecular interaction, making the complexes stable. Further, the in-vitro analysis for morphological imaging, Annexin V/PI FACS assay, ROS and MMP analysis caspase3//7 activity were performed on the A549 cell line producing promising results and can be an option to treat lung cancer at a significantly cheaper state.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Synergistic/antagonistic antimicrobial effects of cosmetic ingredients in combination with 1,2-hexanediol

With the rise of the clean beauty trend in the cosmetics and personal care industry, consumers' interest in cosmetic ingredients, especially preservatives, continues to grow. Paraben, previously the most used preservative in cosmetics, has been excluded from many products owing to its potential risks. Therefore, a movement to lower the content of various preservatives is ongoing. One approach to achieve a suitable level of preservation is to use multifunctional ingredients as preservative boosters. In this study, we aimed to confirm the synergistic antimicrobial interactions between various cosmetic ingredients and 1,2-hexanediol, a preservative introduced as a substitute for paraben, using the checkerboard assay. We also measured the antagonistic effect by measuring the fold changes in the minimum inhibitory concentration of 1,2-hexanediol. Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, showed synergistic antifungal activity with 1,2-hexanediol, which lowered the content of 1,2-hexanediol in the oil-solubilized toner formulation. Among the substances, 50000 ppm of methyl methacrylate crosspolymer elevated the minimum inhibitory concentration of 1,2-hexanediol against bacteria and fungi by 2‒8 times. Through this study, we suggest applying the synergistic effects of various cosmetic ingredients in the formulation as a method to effectively reduce the content of preservatives.

Awareness level regarding adverse reactions caused by cosmetic products among female patients: A cross-sectional study

BACKGROUND

Cosmetics have become an integral part of our daily routine. In addition to causing a wide range of dermatological disorders, cosmetic preparations can also affect internal health. Men are less likely to be impacted than women.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed at determining the awareness level among female patients regarding adverse reactions caused by cosmetic products.

METHOD

A cross-sectional study was performed among women who visited the Dermatology department of Kasturba Hospital, Manipal, Karnataka, from December 2020 to March 2022. The sample size included 400 respondents selected using the Convenience sampling method, and data were collected using a self-administered questionnaire. Data were analyzed using Statistical Package for Social Sciences (SPSS) version 21, and descriptive statistics were applied.

RESULTS

The study found that many cosmetic users experienced negative side effects (44%). The primarily affected body site was the face (25.50%) followed by scalp and hair (10%). Products responsible for adverse events were skin care products (27.25%). Considerable percentage of patients self-medicated (22.25%) and only 15% of women consulted a dermatologist for cosmetic-related problems.

CONCLUSION

Awareness regarding the possibility of cosmetic-induced adverse effects as well as the proper use of cosmetics to reduce these adverse effects is imperative. Implementation of cosmetovigilance system will help to decrease the adverse events to a certain extent.

Polyphenols: Natural Preservatives with Promising Applications in Food, Cosmetics and Pharma Industries; Problems and Toxicity Associated with Synthetic Preservatives; Impact of Misleading Advertisements; Recent Trends in Preservation and Legislation

The global market of food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products requires continuous tracking of harmful ingredients and microbial contamination for the sake of the safety of both products and consumers as these products greatly dominate the consumer's health, directly or indirectly. The existence, survival, and growth of microorganisms in the product may lead to physicochemical degradation or spoilage and may infect the consumer at another end. It has become a challenge for industries to produce a product that is safe, self-stable, and has high nutritional value, as many factors such as physical, chemical, enzymatic, or microbial activities are responsible for causing spoilage to the product within the due course of time. Thus, preservatives are added to retain the virtue of the product to ensure its safety for the consumer. Nowadays, the use of synthetic/artificial preservatives has become common and has not been widely accepted by consumers as they are aware of the fact that exposure to preservatives can lead to adverse effects on health, which is a major area of concern for researchers. Naturally occurring phenolic compounds appear to be extensively used as bio-preservatives to prolong the shelf life of the finished product. Based on the convincing shreds of evidence reported in the literature, it is suggested that phenolic compounds and their derivatives have massive potential to be investigated for the development of new moieties and are proven to be promising drug molecules. The objective of this article is to provide an overview of the significant role of phenolic compounds and their derivatives in the preservation of perishable products from microbial attack due to their exclusive antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties and the problems associated with the use of synthetic preservatives in pharmaceutical products. This article also analyzes the recent trends in preservation along with technical norms that regulate the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products in the developing countries.

TFOS Lifestyle: Impact of cosmetics on the ocular surface

In this report the use of eye cosmetic products and procedures and how this represents a lifestyle challenge that may exacerbate or promote the development of ocular surface and adnexal disease is discussed. Multiple aspects of eye cosmetics are addressed, including their history and market value, psychological and social impacts, possible problems associated with cosmetic ingredients, products, and procedures, and regulations for eye cosmetic use. In addition, a systematic review that critically appraises randomized controlled trial evidence concerning the ocular effects of eyelash growth products is included. The findings of this systematic review highlight the evidence gaps and indicate future directions for research to focus on ocular surface outcomes associated with eyelash growth products.

Greater than pH 8: The pH dependence of EDTA as a preservative of high molecular weight DNA in biological samples

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) is a divalent cation chelator and chemical preservative that has been shown to be the active ingredient of the popular DNA preservative DESS. EDTA may act to reduce DNA degradation during tissue storage by sequestering divalent cations that are required by nucleases naturally occurring in animal tissues. Although EDTA is typically used between pH 7.5 and 8 in preservative preparations, the capacity of EDTA to chelate divalent cations is known to increase with increasing pH. Therefore, increasing the pH of EDTA-containing preservative solutions may improve their effectiveness as DNA preservatives. To test this hypothesis, we stored tissues from five aquatic species in 0.25 M EDTA adjusted to pH 8, 9, and 10 for 12 months at room temperature before DNA isolation. For comparison, tissues from the same specimens were also stored in 95% ethanol. DNA extractions performed on tissues preserved in EDTA pH 9 or 10 resulted in as great or greater percent recovery of high molecular weight DNA than did extractions from tissues stored at pH 8. In all cases examined, percent recovery of high molecular weight DNA from tissues preserved in EDTA pH 10 was significantly better than that observed from tissues preserved in 95% ethanol. Our results support the conclusion that EDTA contributes to DNA preservation in tissues by chelating divalent cations and suggest that preservative performance can be improved by increasing the pH of EDTA-containing DNA preservative solutions.

Ethylated analogue of Zingerone: A new and eco-respectful preservative in cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

This article describes the eco-design of a new preservative in cosmetics based on bio-inspiration of natural extracts from traditional medicines. In order to reach the multiple specification targets, various structures have been synthesized and evaluated to select the one demonstrating broad antimicrobial spectrum with favorable environmental profile and application potential to a wide variety of formulas.

METHODS

In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the synthesized structures, the method of the challenge test consisting in an artificial contamination of the sample with collection microbial strains and evaluation of the number of revivable microorganisms was used to select the most promising candidate. Validation of its antimicrobial potential was later confirmed on Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria, yeast and mold with measurement of its Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) in comparison with known preservatives. Environmental impact assessment of the selected candidate was achieved with the help of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity tests performed according to appropriate Organization tes a strfor Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) and European Union (EU) guidelinesy.

RESULTS

Bio-inspired from turmeric and ginger extracts, an ethylated analog of Zingerone (EZ) with the chemical name 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)butan-2-one demonstrates the strongest activity on Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Candida albicans. Moreover, EZ shows a solubility in water two times higher than that of Zingerone thus increasing its interest as a potential preservative. Finally, its assessment of ready biodegradability and aquatic ecotoxicity in OECD-EU tests with a favorable environmental profile confirms its unique interest and fully justifies its use in cosmetic formulas as an eco-respectful preservative.

CONCLUSION

Bio-inspiration based on technologies without noteworthy side effects but also on eco-design, particularly through the use of measures of potential environmental impact very upstream of a development, are two fundamental elements for the launching of new eco-friendly cosmetic ingredients. This approach has thus validated the strong potential of EZ as a preservative of eco-respectful formulas. The selection of EZ is also a very good example of the achievement of two key objectives targeted by cosmetic companies for the development of a novel active ingredient: environmental performance and technical performance.

Cosmetic Preservatives: Hazardous Micropollutants in Need of Greater Attention?

In recent years, personal care products (PCPs) have surfaced as a novel class of pollutants due to their release into wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs) and receiving environments by sewage effluent and biosolid-augmentation soil, which poses potential risks to non-target organisms. Among PCPs, there are preservatives that are added to cosmetics for protection against microbial spoilage. This paper presents a review of the occurrence in different environmental matrices, toxicological effects, and mechanisms of microbial degradation of four selected preservatives (triclocarban, chloroxylenol, methylisothiazolinone, and benzalkonium chloride). Due to the insufficient removal from WWTPs, cosmetic preservatives have been widely detected in aquatic environments and sewage sludge at concentrations mainly below tens of µg L-1. These compounds are toxic to aquatic organisms, such as fish, algae, daphnids, and rotifers, as well as terrestrial organisms. A summary of the mechanisms of preservative biodegradation by micro-organisms and analysis of emerging intermediates is also provided. Formed metabolites are often characterized by lower toxicity compared to the parent compounds. Further studies are needed for an evaluation of environmental concentrations of preservatives in diverse matrices and toxicity to more species of aquatic and terrestrial organisms, and for an understanding of the mechanisms of microbial degradation. The research should focus on chloroxylenol and methylisothiazolinone because these compounds are the least understood.

Quality and safety investigation of commonly used topical cosmetic preparations

Cosmetic and personal care products are considered an essential part of our daily care routine; hence, these products must be stable and safe for human use. This study aimed to assess the quality and safety of the most common cosmetic preparations. To select the products to be tested, a cross-sectional survey was distributed featuring the most used types and brands of products. Based on 447 responses from both males and females with different ages and education levels, 21 products from different brands were selected and tested in terms of microbial load, heavy metal content, and organoleptic properties. Microbial contamination was investigated using the aerobic plate count method. Lead (Pb), aluminum (Al), cadmium (Cd), cobalt (Co), chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), manganese (Mn), nickel (Ni), zinc (Zn), iron (Fe), and arsenic (As) impurities were analyzed using an inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometer. The products included sunblock, lip balm, hand cream, hair cream, shampoo, cleanser, baby oil, baby powder, bar soap, hair dye, makeup, deodorant, hair serum, shaving gel, and toothpaste. Microbial contamination was found in 14 of the products, ranging between 1467.5 and 299.5 cfu/ml. The most commonly isolated microorganisms were Staphylococcus aureus and Bacillus species. Most of the tested products showed metal impurities, with toothpaste having the highest concentrations of Pb, Cr, As, Cu and Ni. The samples did not show lumps or discoloration, did not have characteristic odors, and had pH values ranging from 6.90 to 8.10. The continuous usage of such products could lead to serious negative consequences. As a result, ensuring the quality of cosmetic products is critical. Regulatory authorities are required to enforce strict legislation on cosmetic manufacturing to assess and ensure the quality and safety of the products before they reach consumers.

High value applications and current commercial market for eggshell membranes and derived bioactives

Chicken eggshell membrane (ESM) is a highly insoluble structure that is greatly stabilized by extensive desmosine, isodesmosine, and disulfide cross-linkages. The ESM possesses numerous biological functions including anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant activities. The ESM is mainly proteinaceous; proteomics and bioinformatics analysis of ESM has identified > 500 proteins, such as collagens, glycoproteins, avian beta-defensins, and lysozyme. ESM also contains significant amounts of carbohydrate, including hyaluronic acid (HA). In general, HA plays an important role in tissue hydration and cellular mechanisms such as growth, differentiation, and transport, and has diverse health and medical applications. Despite ESM being rich in important bioactive compounds, it is often considered as a waste product of the egg-breaking industry and is under-utilized. A major challenge for the successful commercial exploitation of ESM and bioactive constituents is its limited solubility and bioavailability due to cross-linkages of ESM fibers. Various processing and extraction methods are employed to overcome these limitations and improve the production of HA and collagen-based ESM formats. Moreover, we believe that there is a wide scope to exploit ESM for novel applications, leading to new intellectual property (IP) and patenting opportunities. This review presents an overview of scientific background, IP landscape and current commercial market for ESM and derived bioactives including collagens and HA. A detailed literature survey is provided for each area of interest. We analyze regulatory guidelines for ESM, contrasting quality control / microbial safety assessment in cosmetics and personal care products (hazard based) with that of the food industry (risk-based). New perspectives for upcycling of ESM waste to commercially viable high-value biomaterials as nutraceutical supplements and as cosmetics ingredients are discussed. This overview of ESM separation techniques and applications could form the basis for directed research and product development in order to exploit the unique bioactivities of ESM.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Quantification of Preservatives in Tattoo And Pmu Inks in The Frame of The New Requirements Under Reach Regulation

BACKGROUND

According to the REACH restriction, tattoo and permanent make-up (PMU) inks placed on the EU market after 4th January 2022 shall not contain methylisothiazolinone (MI), benzisothiazolinone (BIT), octylisothiazolinone (OIT) or other skin sensitisers in concentrations ≥10 mg/kg and phenoxyethanol (PE) or other eye irritants or damaging substances in concentrations ≥100 mg/kg. In addition, preservatives and other substances enlisted in Annex II to Cosmetic Product Regulation shall not be present in concentrations ≥0.5 mg/kg.

OBJECTIVES

Quantification of 14 preservatives in 99 tattoo and 39 PMU inks from the Italian market and comparison with concentration limits set by REACH restriction.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Inks were analysed by applying validated analytical methods based on liquid-chromatography techniques.

RESULTS

About 24.0% and 1.5% of the overall samples contained BIT and OIT respectively in concentrations ≥10 mg/kg; PE was detected at concentrations ≥100 mg/kg in 15.2% of samples. Number of non-compliant tattoo inks (49.5%) would be significantly greater than PMU samples (17.9%).

CONCLUSIONS

About 40.6% of the samples would be non-compliant with the restriction for the presence of preservatives above the permitted level. Additional concentration limits will apply to skin sensitising preservatives for proper labelling of inks under CLP Regulation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Developing Eco-Friendly Skin Care Formulations with Microemulsions of Essential Oil

With the rising public awareness of environmental issues, consumers are increasingly demanding skin care products that create less environmental impact but still provide the same or even greater efficacy. In the skin care arena, microemulsions have been receiving increased attention as the promising delivery technology of skin care actives. Essential oils such as peppermint oil, lavender oil and eucalyptus oil are purported to have excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that could be used as the eco-friendly alternatives for synthetic antioxidants and preservatives in the skin care formulations. This work therefore seeks to develop eco-friendly skin care formulations based on microemulsions of essential oil. Peppermint oil, lavender oil and eucalyptus oil were used as the oil phase to formulate naringin-loaded microemulsions, which demonstrated similar or better antioxidant and antimicrobial properties compared to the synthetic ones. When formulated into gel form, naringin-loaded microemulsion-gel formulations showed enhanced stability and release profile over their unformulated counterpart. Hence, microemulsions of essential oil developed in this work conferred a 4-fold benefits to the skin care formulations: (1) improved release (membrane permeation) of skin care active, (2) improved stability of skin care active, (3) as an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic antioxidant, and (4) a self-preserving system.

Essential oils used in dermocosmetics: Review about its biological activities

INTRODUCTION

Currently, the demand for the use of constituents of natural origin in cosmetic formulations in detriment of synthetic compounds is noticeable. Several studies assess the potential of essential oils when incorporated into various cosmetic formulations and study their biological activities. This work intends to prepare a literature review on essential oils tested in dermocosmetic formulations and whose biological activities were evaluated through in vitro and/or in vivo tests. The main objectives for this study were as follows: to identify the essential oils that have been used in cosmetic formulations; and compile information on the main biological activities tested in cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

A search was carried out until 2021 in the scientific databases PubMed and Web of Science, using different search terms, and several scientific articles from in vitro and in vivo studies in animals and clinical trials were selected and analyzed of involving development dermocosmetic formulations containing essential oils and the analysis of their biological activities.

RESULTS

These studies demonstrate that the antimicrobial activity (antibacterial and antifungal) is the one most studied, mainly through in vitro tests. In vivo studies were also carried out either in animals or in clinical studies showing different effects, such as repellent action, inhibition of hair growth, and action against migraine. Regarding formulations, it was evident that creams are the most used.

CONCLUSIONS

There is enormous potential for the use of essential oils in future formulations in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, in particular as preservatives, exploring their other biological activities.

In vitro study to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of various multifunctional cosmetic ingredients and chlorphenesin on bacterial species at risk in the cosmetic industry

AIMS

We evaluated the activity of the preservative chlorphenesin and of four antimicrobial cosmetic multifunctional ingredients against various strains of gram-negative and gram-positive human opportunistic pathogens.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Growth kinetics, modelling growth parameters and statistical analyses enabled comparing bacterial behaviour in the presence and in the absence of the compound. Whatever compound tested (i.e. chlorphenesin, phenylpropanol, hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone) and strain origin (i.e. clinical versus industrial), the growth of 42 strains belonging to Acinetobacter spp., Burkholderia cepacia complex and Stenotrophomonas maltophilia, was totally inhibited. On the opposite all of the P. aeruginosa strains (n = 13) as well as 4 and 6 out of 10 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae grew in the presence of chlorphenesin and ethylhexylglycerin, respectively. Some P. gergoviae and Staphylococcus hominis strains withstand hydroxyacetophenone. Within a species, the different strains show variable latency phase, growth rate (r) and carrying capacity (K). They can be similar, lower or higher than those measured in control conditions.

CONCLUSIONS

Data showed differences in the antimicrobial activity of compounds. Upon exposure, strains differed in their behaviour between and within species. Whatever species and strains, compound sensitivity could not be related to antibiotic resistance.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

Most multifunctional ingredients showed significant antimicrobial properties against the wide panel of species and strains evaluated. This will help adjusting preservation strategies in the cosmetic industry.

In-vivo impact of common cosmetic preservative systems in full formulation on the skin microbiome

Preservatives play an essentially role in ensuring that cosmetic formulations remain safe for use via control of microbial contamination. Commonly used preservatives include organic acids, alcohols and phenols and these play an essential role in controlling the growth of bacteria, fungi and moulds in substrates that can potentially act as a rich food source for microbial contaminants. Whilst the activity of these compounds is clear, both in vitro and in formulation, little information exists on the potential impact that common preservative systems, in full formulation, have on the skin's resident microbiome. Dysbiosis of the skin's microbiome has been associated with a number of cosmetic conditions but there currently are no in vivo studies investigating the potential for preservative ingredients, when included in personal care formulations under normal use conditions, to impact the cutaneous microbiome. Here we present an analysis of four in vivo studies that examine the impact of different preservation systems in full formulation, in different products formats, with varying durations of application. This work demonstrates that despite the antimicrobial efficacy of the preservatives in vitro, the skin microbiome is not impacted by preservative containing products in vivo.

Beauty Salons are Key Potential Sources of Disease Spread

Beauty salons can do marvel prettiness for their customers; however, they are also considered as major health concern. They are a reason for the spread of viral, fungal and bacterial diseases. Many research isolated pathogenic bacteria and fungi from beauty salons products and tools. In this review we aim to increase the public's awareness of the potential for disease transmission through the common tools and products used in beauty salons. Furthermore, heighten salons' standards of care in sterilizing beauty tools and products and storing them properly.

Targeted Hybrid Nanocarriers as a System Enhancing the Skin Structure

The skin is constantly exposed to external and internal factors that disturb its function. In this work, two nanosystems-levan nanoparticles and a surfactin-stabilized nanoemulsion were preserved (tested for microbial growth) and characterized (size, polydispersity, Zeta potential, and stability). The nanosystems were introduced in the model formulations-cream, tonic, and gel, and confirmed by TEM. The analysis showed that nanoemulsion has a spherical morphology and size 220-300 nm, while levan nanoparticles had irregular shapes independently of the use of matrix and with particle size (130-260 nm). Additionally, we examined the antiradical effect of levan nanoparticles and nanoemulsion in the prototype of formulations by scavenging DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl; EPR spectroscopy). The model cream with both nanosystems and the whole range of products with nanosystems were evaluated in vivo for hydration, elasticity, smoothness, wrinkles and vascular lesions, discoloration, respectively. The cream improved skin condition in all tested parameters in at least 50% of volunteers. The use of more comprehensive care, additionally consisting of a tonic and gel, reduced the previously existing skin discoloration to 10.42 ± 0.58%. The presented prototype formulations are promising in improving skin conditions.

Naringenin derivatives as glucosamine-6-phosphate synthase inhibitors: synthesis, antioxidants, antimicrobial, preservative efficacy, molecular docking and in silico ADMET analysis

BACKGROUND

Preservatives have to be added in food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics products to maintain their shelf life. However, the existing chemical based preservatives have been associated with severe side effects that compel the researchers to find better safe preservatives based on natural products. G-6-P synthase is an important enzyme for bacterial and fungal cell wall synthesis and offers as a potential target to find better G-6-P synthase inhibitors based antimicrobial compounds. Naringenin, a flavanone, has been reported for a wide range of pharmacological activities including antimicrobial activity, which makes it a potential candidate to be explored as novel G-6-P synthase inhibitor.

RESULTS

The synthesis of naringenin derivatives with potent G-6-P synthase inhibitor having remarkable antioxidant, antimicrobial and preservative efficacy was performed. Among the synthesized compounds, the compound 1 possessed good antioxidant activity (IC50 value, 6.864 ± 0.020 µM) as compared to standard ascorbic acid (IC50 value, 8.110 ± 0.069 µM). The antimicrobial activity of synthesized compounds revealed compound 1 as the most potent compound (pMIC 1.79, 1.79, 1.49, 1.49, 1.49 and 1.49 μM/mL for P. mirabilis, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E. coli, C. albicans and A. niger respectively) as compared to standard drugs taken. The compound 2 showed comparable activity against P. mirabilis (pMIC 1.14 μM/mL), C. albicans (pMIC 1.14 μM/mL) while the compound 3 also showed comparable activity against C. albicans (pMIC 1.16 μM/mL) as well A. niger (pMIC 1.46 μM/mL), likewise the compound 4 showed comparable activity against P. mirabilis (pMIC 1.18 μM/mL) as compared to the standard drugs streptomycin (pMIC 1.06, 1.36, 1.06 and 1.96 μM/mL for P. mirabilis, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus and E. coli respectively), ciprofloxacin (pMIC 1.12, 1.42, 1.12 and 1.42 μM/mL for P. mirabilis, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus and E. coli respectively), ampicillin (pMIC 1.14, 0.84, 0.84 and 1.74 μM/mL for P. mirabilis, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus and E. coli respectively) and fluconazole (pMIC 1.08 and 1.38 μM/mL for C. albicans and A. niger respectively). The molecular docking with the target G-6-P synthase pdb id 1moq resulted with an better dock score for compound 1 (- 7.42) as compared to standard antimicrobial drugs, ciprofloxacin (- 5.185), ampicillin (- 5.065) and fluconazole (- 5.129) that supported the wet lab results. The preservative efficacy test for compound 1 in White Lotion USP showed the log CFU/mL value within the prescribed limit and results were comparable to standard sodium benzoate, ethyl paraben and propyl paraben as per USP standard protocol.

CONCLUSIONS

The synthesized naringenin derivatives exhibited significant G-6-P synthase inhibitory potential with good selectivity towards the selected target G-6-P synthase. Compound 1, bearing nitro group showed good antioxidant, antimicrobial and preservative efficacy compared with the standard drugs taken. The mechanistic insight about the compounds within the active site was completed by molecular docking that supported the results for novel synthesized G-6-P synthase inhibitors.

The application of pharmaceutical quality by design concepts to evaluate the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of a preservative system including desferrioxamine

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of a conventional preservative system containing desferrioxamine mesylate (DFO) and optimize the composition of the system through mathematical models.

METHODS

Different combinations of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), sodium metabisulfite (SM), DFO and methylparaben (MP) were prepared using factorial design of experiments. The systems were added to ascorbic acid (AA) solution and the AA content over time, at room temperature and at 40 °C was determined by volumetric assay. The systems were also evaluated for antioxidant activity by a fluorescence-based assay. Antimicrobial activity was assessed by microdilution technique and photometric detection against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. A multi-criteria decision approach was adopted to optimize all responses by desirability functions.

RESULTS

DFO did not extend the stability of AA over time, but displayed a better ability than EDTA to block the pro-oxidant activity of iron. DFO had a positive interaction with MP in microbial growth inhibition. The mathematical models showed adequate capacity to predict the responses. Statistical optimization aiming to meet the quality specifications of the ascorbic acid solution indicated that the presence of DFO in the composition allows to decrease the concentrations of EDTA, SM and MP.

CONCLUSION

DFO was much more effective than EDTA in preventing iron-catalyzed oxidation. In addition, DFO improved the inhibitory response of most microorganisms tested. The Quality by Design concepts aided in predicting an optimized preservative system with reduced levels of conventional antioxidants and preservatives, suggesting DFO as a candidate for multifunctional excipient.

An Investigation into Incidences of Microbial Contamination in Cosmeceuticals in the UAE: Imbalances between Preservation and Microbial Contamination

In recent years, concern about certain personal care products and cosmetics suffering from microbial contamination has increased. In this research, we aimed to determine the types and incidence of the most common microorganisms found in unopened/unused personal care and cosmetic products in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) market. This research involved an analysis of 100 personal care products and cosmetics. For every product, microbial (Candida albicans, Staphylococcusaureus, aerobic mesophilic bacteria, Escherichia coli, yeast and mold, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) contamination was assessed, and levels were compared with the guidelines used in Europe. Of the total samples, 15% (95% CI: 0.79–22.1) were contaminated by aerobic mesophilic bacteria compared to the maximum microbial limit of 1000 CFU/g. In addition, 13% (95% CI: 0.63–19.7) of the samples were contaminated with yeast and mold compared to the maximum microbial limit of 1000 CFU/g. Of all samples, nine (9%) were contaminated with both aerobic mesophilic bacteria and yeast and mold. However, none of the tested samples were contaminated with Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans, or Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Manufacturers of cosmetics and personal care products should be developing and implementing best practices regarding quality control/quality assurance in partnership with government regulators. Additionally, there should be greater control of the quality and safety of this type of product regarding good manufacturing practice (GMP), regulation, research, education, and the reporting of adverse events.

A novel eco-friendly green approach to produce particalized eggshell membrane (PEM) for skin health applications

The eggshell membrane (ESM) is a natural bioactive material, which is increasingly utilized for various biomedical applications. However, the poor solubility of ESM limits the bioavailability of its constituents and reduces the expression of their potential bioactivity. In this study, we utilized an innovative green strategy to separate ESM from shell, and processed ESM for size reduction by cryo-grinding and homogenization to produce particalized eggshell membrane (PEM) approaching submicron dimensions, with enhanced anti-inflammatory activity and increased antimicrobial activity against skin associated pathogens. Gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus (log₁₀ reduction = 4.5 ± 0.3) was more sensitive to PEM as compared to Gram-negative Pseudomonas aeruginosa (log₁₀ reduction = 2.1 ± 0.3). PEM elicited a dose-dependent reduction in NO accumulation in LPS-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages, suggesting an anti-inflammatory response to ESM particles. These findings suggest that processed PEM possesses great potential as a topical ingredient in skincare applications to maintain skin health by reducing bacterial infections and inflammation.

Amygdalin based G-6-P synthase inhibitors as novel preservatives for food and pharmaceutical products

G-6-P synthase enzyme has been involved in the synthesis of the microbial cell wall, and its inhibition may lead to the antimicrobial effect. In the present study, we designed a library of amygdalin derivatives, and two most active derivatives selected on the basis of various parameters viz. dock score, binding energy, and ADMET data using molecular docking software (Schrodinger’s Maestro). The selected derivatives were synthesized and evaluated for their antioxidant and antimicrobial potential against several Gram (+ ve), Gram (−ve), as well as fungal strains. The results indicated that synthesized compounds exhibited good antioxidant, antimicrobial, and better preservative efficacy in food preparation as compared to the standard compounds. No significant differences were observed in different parameters as confirmed by Kruskal–Wallis test (p < 0.05). Docking results have been found in good correlation with experimental wet-lab data. Moreover, the mechanistic insight into the docking poses has also been explored by binding interactions of amygdalin derivative inside the dynamic site of G-6-P synthase.

Salicylate UV-Filters in Sunscreen Formulations Compromise the Preservative System Efficacy against Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Burkholderia cepacia

Contamination of personal-care products are a serious health concern and therefore, preservative solutions are necessary for the costumers’ safety. High sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreen formulations are known to be difficult to preserve, due to their high ratio of organic phase containing the UV-filters. Salicylate esters such as octyl salicylate (OS) and homosalate (HS) are among the most common UV-filters currently used in the market, and can undergo hydrolysis by esterase molecules produced by contaminant microorganisms. The hydrolysis product, salicylic acid (SA) can be assimilated by certain bacteria that contain the chorismate pathway, in which its final product is pyochelin, an iron-chelating siderophore. Here, we show that OS and HS can compromise the preservative efficacy against two pathogenic important bacteria, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Burkholderia cepacia. Challenge tests of formulations containing the UV-filters demonstrated that only bacteria with the chorismate pathway failed to be eradicated by the preservation system. mRNA expression levels of the bacterial pchD gene, which metabolizes SA to produce pyochelin, indicate a significant increase that was in correlation with increasing concentrations of both OS and HS. These data suggest that certain UV-filters can provide a source for bacterial resistance against common preservatives in sunscreen formulations.

Rapid assessment and prediction of the efficiency of two preservatives against S. aureus in cosmetic products using High Content Screening-Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy

Most cosmetic products are susceptible to microbiological spoilage due to contaminations that could happen during fabrication or by consumer’s repetitive manipulation. The composition of cosmetic products must guarantee efficient bacterial inactivation all along with the product shelf life, which is usually assessed by challenge-tests. A challenge-test consists in inoculating specific bacteria, i.e. Staphylococcus aureus, in the formula and then investigating the bacterial log reduction over time. The main limitation of this method is relative to the time-consuming protocol, where 30 days are needed to obtain results. In this study, we have proposed a rapid alternative method coupling High Content Screening—Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy (HCS-CLSM), image analysis and modeling. It consists in acquiring real-time S. aureus inactivation kinetics on short-time periods (typically 4h) and in predicting the efficiency of preservatives on longer scale periods (up to 7 days). The action of two preservatives, chlorphenesin and benzyl alcohol, was evaluated against S. aureus at several concentrations in a cosmetic matrix. From these datasets, we compared two secondary models to determine the logarithm reduction time (Dc) for each preservative concentration. Afterwards, we used two primary inactivation models to predict log reductions for up to 7 days and we compared them to observed log reductions. The IQ model better fits datasets and the Q value gives information about the matrix level of interference.

Preliminary Evidence of a Molecular Detection Method to Analyze Bacterial DNA as a Quality Indicator in Cosmetics

Cosmetics are a category of widely consumed and distributed products, and their manufacture is always subject to specific guidelines. Quality Control (QC) tests provide information supporting the absence of injurious organisms and regarding the microbiological stability of cosmetics. The microbiological risk analysis is typically performed using the plate count method, which is a time-consuming and operator-dependent approach. Molecular technologies allow a deeper and more sensitive testing than traditional cultures. The demand for rapid and sensitive methods is recently increasing. The aim of our study was to compare different DNA extraction methods in order to detect and quantify bacterial load in cosmetics using a qPCR system. Known numbers of microorganisms were spiked into six different cosmetics to simulate contaminated samples. DNA was extracted with seven extraction kits and then quantified by real-time qPCR. Results revealed differences in terms of cell recovery, DNA yield, and quality. The bead-beating approaches were the most suitable in our molecular workflow and lead to good quality DNA for analysis by qPCR within four hours. Combined with mechanical extraction, qPCR may represent an efficient and easy method for microorganism identification in cosmetics, and can be automated. This approach also is also applicable for the detection of probiotics used as beneficial biological components in cosmetic products. The results of our molecular method provided preliminary evidences for the rapid identification of cells (10–100) and nucleic acids in complex preparations employed for human health, in compliance with regulatory limits. The suggested methodology is easy, fast, and sensitive. Its scalability allows serial microbiological evaluation at every manufacturing step.

Development of a standardized method to evaluate the protective efficiency of cosmetic packaging against microbial contamination

Doubts surrounding the potential adverse effects of antimicrobial preservatives have modified the demand of consumers, who increasingly insist on the production of low-level and even preservative-free cosmetics. Protection of the product against microbial contamination is therefore focused on the packaging. This has prompted the emergence of a highly diverse array of so-called “protective”, “overprotective”, and “barrier” packaging. However, these designations are not normalized and the choice of the right packaging adapted to each cosmetic product is still essentially empirical, hazardous, and time consuming. The Cosmetic Valleys cluster has launched a commission to define a complete and experimentally-validated method to classify the level of protection of cosmetic packaging against microbial contamination. As reported herein, this required the development a specific bacteriostatic medium that can be used for 7 days and an in vitro procedure that reproduces in-use contamination and consumer practices. Based on tests performed on over 800 packages of different origin and performance characteristics, we propose a classification, divided into six grades, to differentiate the protective efficiency of cosmetic packaging. This work can be considered as a first step towards a regulatory text.

Understanding the challenges of non-food industrial product contamination

Preventing microbial contamination of non-food products is a major area of industrial microbiology where preservatives are used to stop microbial growth. However, microorganisms occasionally overcome product preservation, causing recalls and the implementation of multiple procedures to prevent further contamination. Correct reporting of microbial contamination in non-food industrial products is vital, especially if spoilage organisms are antimicrobial resistant and pose a health threat. Gram-negative bacteria such as Pseudomonas, Burkholderia and Enterobacteriaceae are frequently reported as non-food product contaminants, including species that overlap current antimicrobial resistance priorities. Historical analysis of recall databases highlighted that for greater than 15% of contamination incidents, the causative microbial agents are reported as unidentified. Here we review the current antimicrobial resistant bacterial species associated with non-food product contamination and evaluate recall reporting in Europe from 2005 to 2018. Our review shows that 49% of microbial contaminants are reported as unidentified despite frequent detection of antimicrobial resistant pathogens; in contrast, 98% of food-related microbial contaminants are classified. Recommendations to fill this microbial identification gap in non-food product recalls are made. Overall, reporting standards for microbial contamination in non-food products must be improved to enable surveillance and for understanding the risks associated with antimicrobial resistant microorganisms.

Risk factors influencing contamination of customized cosmetics made on-the-spot: Evidence from the national pilot project for public health

Customized cosmetics made by consumers or sellers on-the-spot have several safety issues, and therefore require a preventative approach to their safety management. The present study aimed to identify potential factors affecting the safety of customized cosmetics made on-the-spot. Heavy metals and microbial contaminants in customized cosmetics were analyzed in 120 samples. It was revealed that the transfer of cosmetics to new containers during the production process is a significant risk factor for cross-contamination and that heat treatment is crucial for reducing the number of microorganisms in the products. For instance, cosmetics made with heat and with no transfer showed relatively low microbial counts ranging from not detected to 440 CFU/ml. The high pH (>pH 10) of samples did not guarantee the microbial safety of the freshly made cosmetics (with a rinse-off product having 2,830 CFU/ml and a pH of 11.2). There was no significant difference in microbial counts among cosmetic types (P > 0.05); however, semisolid types, especially creams and rinse-off products, were susceptible to contamination (maximum 2,710 and 2,830 CFU/ml, respectively). Most microorganisms in the customized cosmetics (40.8%) decreased to non-detectable levels during 60 days of storage. None of the samples harbored heavy metals. Sequencing analysis of isolates revealed some bacteria and mold that could cause human infections. The results of this study suggest that the regulation of customized cosmetics should consider the risk factors revealed in this study, as the products made on-the-spot are also final products sent directly to consumers.

The effect of rosemary Extract and cold plasma treatments on bacterial community diversity in poultry ground meats

To provide safer food, many technologies have been used to preserve food. One such technology is cold plasma, which can reduce viable bacterial counts in various food matrices. However, bacterial communities in food matrices before and after cold plasma treatment have not been investigated. In this communication, the EcoPlates™ were used to physiologically profile bacterial communities from poultry ground meat treated with rosemary, cold plasma or both. The cultures in the plates were incubated at 25 °C for seven days in an OmniLog® system. Responses of the bacterial communities to 31 chemicals were measured on formazan production. The results show that the three parameters of the Gompertz growth curves were observed in all samples, 2-hydroxybenzoic acid could not be used, while pyruvic acid methyl ester was used for a carbon source by the bacterial communities from all meat samples, each bacterial community metabolized different numbers of chemical compounds at different rates, and reduction of bacterial functional diversity was observed in the poultry meat samples treated with cold plasma and rosemary. In the future, investigations on whether the physiological profiling in bacterial communities be used as an indicator for effectiveness of cold plasma treatment of meat samples.

Not all Pseudomonas aeruginosa are equal: strains from industrial sources possess uniquely large multireplicon genomes

Pseudomonas aeruginosa is a highly versatile, antibiotic-resistant Gram-negative bacterium known for causing opportunistic infections and contamination of industrial products. Despite extensive genomic analysis of clinical P. aeruginosa strains, no genomes exist for preservative-tolerant industrial strains. A unique collection of 69 industrial isolates was assembled and compared to clinical and environmental strains; 16 genetically distinct industrial strains were subjected to array tube genotyping, multilocus sequence typing and whole-genome sequencing. The industrial strains possessed high preservative tolerance and were dispersed widely across P. aeruginosa as a species, but recurrence of strains from the same lineage within specific industrial products and locations was identified. The industrial P. aeruginosa genomes (mean=7.0 Mb) were significantly larger than those of previously sequenced environmental (mean=6.5 Mb; n=19) and clinical (mean=6.6 Mb; n=66) strains. Complete sequencing of the P. aeruginosa industrial strain RW109, which encoded the largest genome (7.75 Mb), revealed a multireplicon structure including a megaplasmid (555 265 bp) and large plasmid (151 612 bp). The RW109 megaplasmid represented an emerging plasmid family conserved in seven industrial and two clinical P. aeruginosa strains, and associated with extremely stress-resilient phenotypes, including antimicrobial resistance and solvent tolerance. Here, by defining the detailed phylogenomics of P. aeruginosa industrial strains, we show that they uniquely possess multireplicon, megaplasmid-bearing genomes, and significantly greater genomic content worthy of further study.

Cosmetic Use and Its Adverse Events among Female Employees of Jimma University, Southwest Ethiopia

BACKGROUND

Cosmetics is applied to human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance. Cosmetics is causing alarming adverse events to its users, yet evidence about its magnitude and cosmetic use among female employees in Ethiopia is limited. Therefore, this study was aimed at determining cosmetic use and its adverse events among female employees of Jimma University.

METHOD

A cross-sectional study was done among female employees from December 2016 to January 2017. Samples of 426 participants were selected using stratified simple random sampling from all colleges, and data were collected using self-administered questionnaire. Descriptive statistics was used to compute proportions and logistic regression to assess the determinants of cosmetics-related adverse events.

RESULT

A total of 387 females were participated, making a 90.8% response rate. The majority (80.1%) were using at least one cosmetic product, and 39.0% of them were between 25-29 years. The majority (86.6%) of the respondents used toothpaste, lotion, lipstick, or eye makeup. Cosmetics related adverse events were experienced by 19.0% of the respondents primarily on face and hairs. Lotion and hair cosmetics were the primary perceived causes of adverse events. Employees who had monthly income between 1000 and 3000 ETB (AOR=3.4; 95% CI: 1.4-8.4), above 3000 ETB (AOR=4.7; 95% CI: 1.8-12.2) and those who used traditional cosmetics (AOR=4.5; 95% CI: 2.1-9.6) were more likely to develop adverse events.

CONCLUSION

A significant proportion of the users suffered from cosmetics related adverse events. The female employees have to be aware of the rational cosmetics utilization practices to minimize adverse events.

Effect of magnetic ion exchange (MIEX®) on removal of emerging organic contaminants

In this study, the removal of nine emerging organic contaminants was investigated by using anion exchange resins. The selected compounds were carbamazepine, atrazine, simazine, estrone, bisphenol A, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. Two different magnetic anionic exchanger resins were tested: MIEX^® DOC and MIEX^® GOLD. The optimal resin dose (40 mL/L) and contact time (20 min) had been previously determined. Once these optimum parameters were set, the effect of the initial concentration of contaminants on the removal efficiency of the contaminants by the resins was studied. The study was carried out using mono and multicomponent systems, with distilled water and natural waters, to which contaminants had been previously added, in order to evaluate the competitive and matrix effects. Results showed that the average removal percentages obtained with the MIEX^® DOC resin were: 51%, 61%, 68% and 80% for methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and butylparaben, respectively. For bisphenol A the result was similar, i.e., 66%, whereas for the rest of the compounds studied, removal efficiencies lower than 15% were obtained. The MIEX^® GOLD resin achieved lower elimination rates than the MIEX^® DOC resin in all cases.

Aggregate consumer exposure to isothiazolinones via household care and personal care products: Probabilistic modelling and benzisothiazolinone risk assessment

Consumers regularly use household care and personal care products (HC&PCPs). Isothiazolinones are included in HC&PCPs as preservatives and are being held responsible for an epidemic rise in allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). The objective of this study was to assess the origin and extent of dermal exposure in order to evaluate the risk of ACD from isothiazolinones in HC&PCP. Individual-based aggregate dermal exposure to four isothiazolinones was estimated using the newly proposed Probabilistic Aggregated Consumer Exposure Model-Kinetic, Dermal (PACEM-KD) by combining the reported individual use patterns for HC&PCP in Switzerland (N = 669 (558 adults), ages 0-91) with isothiazolinone concentrations measured in products used by the individual person. PACEM-KD extends the original PACEM by considering exposure duration, product dilution and skin permeability. PACEM-KD-based higher-tier exposure on palms (99th percentile) was 15.4 ng/cm², 1.3 ng/cm², 0.9 ng/cm², and 0.08 ng/cm² for the isothiazolinones 1,2‑Benzisothiazol‑3‑(2H)‑one (BIT), 2‑Octyl‑3(2H)‑isothiazolinone (OIT), 2‑Methylisothiazolin‑3(2H)‑one (MI), and 5‑Chloro‑2‑methyl‑4‑isothiazolin‑3‑one (CMI), respectively. Major sources of exposure to BIT included all-purpose cleaners, dishwashing detergent, and kitchen cleaner, while exposure to OIT mainly stems from a fungicide. For MI, the main contributors were dishwashing detergent and all-purpose wet wipes, and for CMI all-purpose cleaner. A Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA) for BIT using Sensitization Assessment Factors (SAFs) indicates that around 1% of the Swiss population is at risk to be sensitized by BIT in cosmetics and household chemicals. For isothiazolinones in general the presented higher-tier modelling approach suggests that household cleaners are currently more important sources of exposure than cosmetics.

Preservative efficacy of selected antimicrobials of natural origin in a cosmetic emulsion

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion.

METHODS

Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard.

RESULTS

The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations. Challenge test criterion A was fulfilled by all antimicrobials of natural origin, except levulinic acid in the challenge test with Candida albicans, Lactobacillus ferment in the challenge test with C. albicans and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and grapefruit seed extract in the challenge test with C. albicans. Phenoxyethanol and the combination of methylparaben and propylparaben were inefficient at the minimum studied concentrations.

CONCLUSION

The results offer important comparative data on the level of preservative efficacy within the group of antimicrobials of natural origin and in reference to some typical, widely used conventional preservatives. Further research must be encouraged regarding cosmetic over-preservation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Composition and Bioactivity of Essential Oil from Citrus grandis (L.) Osbeck 'Mato Peiyu' Leaf

'Mato Peiyu' pomelo (Citrus grandis (L.) Osbeck 'Mato Peiyu') leaves from pruning are currently an agricultural waste. The aim of this study was to isolate essential oils from these leaves through steam distillation (SD) and solvent-free microwave extraction (SFME) and to evaluate their applicability to skin care by analyzing their antimicrobial, antioxidant (diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging assay, β-carotene/linoleic acid assay, and nitric oxide scavenging assay), anti-inflammatory (5-lipoxygenase inhibition assay), and antityrosinase activities. The gas chromatography-mass spectrometry results indicated that the main components of 'Mato Peiyu' leaf essential oils were citronellal and citronellol, with a total percentage of 50.71% and 59.82% for SD and SFME, respectively. The highest bioactivity among all assays was obtained for 5-lipoxygenase inhibition, with an IC₅₀ value of 0.034% (v/v). The MIC₉₀ of the antimicrobial activity of essential oils against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans ranged from 0.086% to 0.121% (v/v). Citronellal and citronellol were the main contributors, accounting for at least 54.58% of the essential oil's bioactivity. This paper is the first to report the compositions and bioactivities of 'Mato Peiyu' leaf essential oil, and the results imply that the pomelo leaf essential oil may be applied in skin care.