Clinical relevance of positive patch test reactions to the 26 EU-labelled fragrances

Fragrance allergens in cosmetic products marketed for children in Denmark

BACKGROUND

Fragrances are among the most common contact allergens in children. Cosmetic products are the most frequent source of skin exposure.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate exposure to fragrance allergens among Danish children, based on a sample of 1179 cosmetic products marketed for children.

METHODS

Information regarding cosmetic products marketed to children was obtained using a non-profit smartphone application registry, with data from December 2015 to November 2022.

RESULTS

The number of validated products was 26  537, of which 1349 marketed for children. After elimination of duplicates, 1179 (4.4%) individual products remained. The majority 53.8% (634/1179) of the products were fragranced. The highest frequency of declared fragrances was found in 'Facial care'-products: 93.0% (80/86), of which 97.7% were lip balms. The highest number of labelled fragrances in one single product (n = 16) was found in a baby perfume. Fragrance mix I (FMI) or II (FMII) allergens were found in 25.3% (298/1179) of the products. Limonene and linalool were the two most frequently labelled fragrance allergens.

CONCLUSION

Children can be exposed to a vast number of fragrance allergens from scented cosmetic products. Allergens from FM I and FMII are widely used in cosmetic products marketed to children. Patch testing with FMI and FMII remains relevant in children.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru): Still worth testing?

Background

Because Myroxylon pereirae (MP), or balsam of Peru, is nowadays almost not used “as such,” and fragrance mix 1 (FM1) apparently is more sensitive in detecting fragrance allergy, the usefulness of testing MP in baseline series was recently questioned.

Objectives

Identification of the number of clinically relevant patch test reactions to MP not detected by FM1.

Methods

Retrospective analysis of 12 030 patients patch tested with MP and FM1 for contact dermatitis between January 2018 and December 2019 in 13 Italian dermatology clinics.

Results

Four hundred thirty‐nine patients (3.6%) had a positive patch test reaction to MP; 437 (3.6%) had a positive patch test reaction to FM1. Positive reactions to both MP and FM1 were observed in 119 subjects (1.0%), 310 (2.6%) reacted to MP only, 304 (2.5%) to FM1 only, 5 to MP and sorbitan sesquioleate (SSO), 9 to FM1 and SSO, and 5 to MP, FM1, and SSO. Single sensitizations were clinically relevant in 75.2% of cases for MP (62.9% current, 12.3% past) and 76.3% for FM1 (70.1% current, 6.2% past).

Conclusions

Based on our results, MP appears to be still worth testing along with FM1 in baseline series, because it allows detection of a remarkable number of fragrance allergies, often relevant, which would be otherwise missed.

Frequency of sensitization to the individual fragrances of fragrance mix I and II according to the factors included in the MOAHLFA index

BACKGROUND

Fragrances constitute the second most frequent cause of allergic contact dermatitis in Spain.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the rate of sensitization to the individual fragrances of fragrance mix (FM) I and FM II for each of the demographic and clinical factors included in the MOAHLFA (male, occupational dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, hand dermatitis, leg dermatitis, facial dermatitis, age) index.

METHODS

We conducted a 5-year retrospective study in 23 Spanish centres. We identified the patients who had undergone patch testing with a specific fragrance series after reacting positively to fragrance markers in a baseline series. We obtained the MOAHLFA index items in this population, then calculated for each demographic and clinical factor the frequencies of sensitization to the individual fragrances of FM I and FM II.

RESULTS

A specific fragrance series was patch tested in 1013 patients. The most frequent allergens in men, women, children, and retired people were Evernia prunastri (16%), geraniol (16.6%), isoeugenol (17.9%), and geraniol (22.4%), respectively. Citral (20.5%) and hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC) (14.5%) were the most common allergens in occupational eczemas and were also associated with a large proportion of hand and facial dermatitis.

CONCLUSIONS

Frequency of sensitization to the individual fragrances of FM I and FM II varies with age, sex, affected body region, and history of occupational or atopic dermatitis.

Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

Prevalence, concomitant reactions, and factors associated with fragrance allergy in Thailand

BACKGROUND

Fragrances are the most common cause of cosmetic contact allergy. Up-to-date information on contact allergy frequencies and relevance aids primary and secondary preventive measures.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the prevalence, associated factors, and concomitant reactions in fragrance allergy among Thais.

METHODS

This retrospective study collected data from 2012 to 2019. The patient characteristics of fragrance and nonfragrance allergy groups were compared. Concurrent positive reactions to fragrance allergens (fragrance mix [FM] I, FM II, Myroxylon pereirae resin and hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde) and other baseline-series allergens were analysed.

RESULTS

Of 1032 patients, 175 (17.0%) had fragrance allergy, with 57.7% of clinical relevance. FM I showed the highest prevalence (9.4%). The associated factors were being elderly, lesions on the extremities, metal allergy history, and long dermatitis duration. Contact allergies to epoxy resin and Compositae plants were significantly associated with fragrance allergy with an odds ratio of 5.95 (95% confidence interval [CI]: 5.21-6.80) and an odds ratio of 4.42 (95% CI: 1.58-12.36), respectively. No significant associations between colophonium (previously proposed as a fragrance marker) and fragrance allergens were found.

CONCLUSIONS

The prevalence of fragrance contact allergy remains high and should be considered in old patients presenting with long-standing eczema on the extremities. Unlike reports from other countries, varied, significant, concomitant reactions were observed.

Review on perfume and present status of its associated allergens

BACKGROUND

Perfume is basically a cosmetic product applied to human body for an amusing scent or the feeling of freshness. A certain amount of perfume penetrates and remains attached to the protein of the skin when perfume is applied on the body. It evokes a surge of events in human immune system which results with allergic symptoms. Fragrance ingredients are leading cause that can be responsible for the occurrence of allergic contact dermatitis that is recently studied under cosmetic adverse reaction.

AIM

The aim of this review article was to define the allergies that are caused by fragrance ingredients. This review highlights the various aspects of perfume with respect to its manufacturing process, compositions, and fragrance ingredients identified as allergens and its present regulatory status.

METHOD

There area 175 frangrance ingredients that are used in perfumes cause allergic reaction. Several studies were conducted on the patients. The study was conducted on four fragrance markers in the baseline series: fragrance mix I (FM I), Myroxylon pereirae, fragrance mix II (FM II), and hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde.

RESULT

Around 658 patients showed allergy due to fragrance ingredients when the patch test was performed. In other study, out of 1253 patients, 90% of the FM I and M. pereirae detected 90% of the cases.

CONCLUSION

Majority of the fragrance ingredients can cause allergic reactions and hence act as allergens and thus increase the risk of sensitization on activation. If any individual suffers from allergy or contact dermatitis on use of any perfume, he/she should be aware of it and should reduce or avoid its use to overcome such problems of hypersensitivity.

Fragrant and sticky allergens from the pinewood: Cohabiting and coreacting

BACKGROUND

Tree moss (Pseudevernia furfuracea [L.] Zopf.), a lichen growing on conifers, is a frequent fragrance sensitizer. Previous studies have shown two subgroups of tree moss-allergic patients: a group sensitized to common allergens of tree and oak moss (Evernia prunastri), and another group sensitized to colophonium-derived allergens, which may contaminate tree moss extract.

OBJECTIVES

To report the results of including tree moss extract in the baseline series and discuss the clinical implications.

METHODS

Tree moss extract was included in the baseline series and sensitized patients were assessed for concomitant allergy to colophonium and oak moss, and the relevance of these reactions was analyzed.

RESULTS

Altogether, 22 of 632 patients (3.5%) had positive reactions to tree moss. Eight patients were sensitized to tree moss only (among fragrance allergens) and 75% had relevant reactions to colophonium. Fourteen patients were sensitized to other fragrance allergens as well and 28.5% had relevant colophonium reactions.

CONCLUSIONS

The prevalence of positive tree moss reactions is high enough to justify its inclusion in the baseline series. If tree moss is not included, patients with positive colophonium reactions should be informed of possible (false) cross-reactivity to tree moss to avoid this labeled fragrance allergen.

Bioprofiling of Cosmetics with Focus on Streamlined Coumarin Analysis

Facing the widespread use of cosmetic products in daily use and recognizing the very limited information obtained by target analysis, a method suited for comprehensive characterization of cosmetics was aimed at. The biological activity of ingredients of 20 cosmetics taken from 16 different product groups and their coumarin contents were investigated via chromatography linked to bioassays (direct bioautography) and mass spectrometry. It allows for screening a large number of cosmetic products within a short time to generate a more valid database on their coumarin content and their contribution to the overall exposure. Bioactivity profiling of cosmetics with regard to bioactive ingredients opens new avenues for a comprehensive characterization of important substances in products of daily use, helpful for the legally required safety and risk assessment of cosmetic products, especially for multiple product usage. As for coumarin, a ubiquitary fragrance compound of allergenic potential, which is under recurrent discussion due to its hepatoxic properties, it is necessary to be able to estimate the regular intake via cosmetics for a valid risk assessment. This newly developed bioprofiling method allowed a selective determination of coumarin down to 1.3 mg kg-1, even for very matrix-rich cosmetics despite minimalism in sample preparation. The declaration limits according to European Cosmetics Regulation were completely covered. Mean coumarin contents of 20 cosmetic products reached up to 2218 mg kg-1. The repeatabilities (%RSD, n = 3) were between 1.1 and 2.9%, and the mean recoveries (n = 5) were between 96 and 102% for the different cosmetic matrices.

Fragrance allergic contact dermatitis

Fragrances are a common cause of allergic contact dermatitis in Europe and in North America. They can affect individuals at any age and elicit a spectrum of reactions from contact urticaria to systemic contact dermatitis. Growing recognition of the widespread use of fragrances in modern society has fueled attempts to prevent sensitization through improved allergen identification, labeling, and consumer education. This review provides an overview and update on fragrance allergy. Part 1 discusses the epidemiology and evaluation of suspected fragrance allergy. Part 2 reviews screening methods, emerging fragrance allergens, and management of patients with fragrance contact allergy. This review concludes by examining recent legislation on fragrances and suggesting potential additions to screening series to help prevent and detect fragrance allergy.

Use patterns of leave-on personal care products among Swiss-German children, adolescents, and adults

In order to model exposure to ingredients contained in personal care products (PCPs) and assess their potential risks to human health, access to reliable PCP use data, including co-use patterns, is essential. A postal questionnaire survey was conducted to determine the use patterns of eight leave-on PCP categories among the German-speaking population of Switzerland (N = 1,196; ages 0–97 years), providing for the first time in Europe PCP use data for children <12 years of age. The majority of respondents (99%) reported having used at least one of the investigated PCP categories in the past year. Co-use of two or more PCP categories at the same time was common and more complex amongst adults. Regular use of face cream and body lotion was very high in the youngest group of children aged 0–4 years (more than 79% respondents) who may be more vulnerable to certain adverse effects of some PCP ingredients. A comparison with previously collected information on PCP use patterns in Germany and the Netherlands indicates differences in PCP use patterns among European consumers and suggests that surrogate PCP use data from other countries must be used with caution. This work extends the existing knowledge of PCP use patterns and will be useful for new exposure assessments for ingredients contained in PCPs used by the young consumers.

The hazard communication of fragrance allergens must be improved

Contact allergy is a global health problem that could be alleviated considerably if the general public could reduce contact to sensitizers. Efficient hazard communication would be a valuable instrument to achieve this. What do current regulations concerning fragrance sensitizers in cosmetic products in Europe contribute? For example, there are bans and restrictions according to the Cosmetic Regulation, there is the "26 allergens rule" that requires that the names of some allergenic fragrance ingredients are listed on the containers, there is labeling and classification of hazardous products according to Regulation 1272/2008, and there is the regulation concerning the registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of chemicals (REACH). Do these regulations increase consumer protection by suitable hazard communication instruments? Four main problems were identified. First, according to the 26 allergens rule, consumers carry a very large part of the responsibility for risk reduction management. They need to be capable and motivated to recognize the names of strong allergens listed in the ingredient list and decide for themselves whether they want to run the risk or not, provided that they are aware of their responsibility. Second, cosmetic products do not need to be classified and labeled like other consumer goods, according to the European Commission Regulation 1272/2008, if they contain hazardous substances. Third, some pictograms for hazardous substances, for example, the exclamation mark for sensitizers, are not well understood by the majority of the general public. Fourth, very often, the design of cosmetic containers implies health and well being, even if the respective products contain sensitizers or other hazardous substances. Against this background, the following improvements are proposed: 1) the 26 allergens rule needs revision, 2) the exception for cosmetic products from labeling and classification should be abolished, 3) a new self-explanatory pictogram for skin sensitizers and skin irritants should become mandatory for consumer products containing allergens, and 4) packaging of products containing hazardous substances should not be allowed to be attractive and evoke feelings that the products were harmless. Labeling of consumer products can be a very efficient tool for risk communication, however, the addressees must be sufficiently trained to understand the system and know the consequences of their behavior. Transparent labeling will increase the credibility of manufacturers and can lead to a subsequent improved risk management with a benefit for all stakeholders.

Allergic contact dermatitis to fragrances. Part 1

Fragrances are a large group of substances and the second most common cause of allergic contact dermatitis in Spain. These potential allergens are extremely common and the general population is subject to continuous exposure on a daily basis. While the fragrance markers included in the current Spanish standard patch test series are good, there is room for improvement. New markers that have emerged in recent years have proven to be of value in standard series used in other countries. Diagnosing fragrance allergy has taken on even greater importance since the European Union added 26 fragrances to its list of mandatory ingredients to be specified on product labels. The aim of this review is to provide an update on allergic contact dermatitis to fragrances. We examine the main sources of exposure and clinical manifestations of this condition and propose a diagnostic and treatment protocol.

Fragrance material review on anisyl alcohol

A toxicologic and dermatologic review of anisyl alcohol when used as a fragrance ingredient is presented. Anisyl alcohol is a member of the fragrance structural group Aryl Alkyl Alcohols and is a primary alcohol. The AAAs are a structurally diverse class of fragrance ingredients that includes primary, secondary, and tertiary alkyl alcohols covalently bonded to an aryl (Ar) group, which may be either a substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring. The common structural element for the AAA fragrance ingredients is an alcohol group -C-(R1)(R2)OH and generically the AAA fragrances can be represented as an Ar-C-(R1)(R2)OH or Ar-Alkyl-C-(R1)(R2)OH group. This review contains a detailed summary of all available toxicology and dermatology papers that are related to this individual fragrance ingredient and is not intended as a stand-alone document. Available data for anisyl alcohol were evaluated then summarized and includes physical properties, acute toxicity, skin irritation, skin sensitization, elicitation, toxicokinetics, repeated dose, genotoxicity, and carcinogenicity data. A safety assessment of the entire Aryl Alkyl Alcohols will be published simultaneously with this document; please refer to Belsito et al. (2012) for an overall assessment of the safe use of this material and all Aryl Alkyl Alcohols in fragrances.

Comparison of Marketed Cosmetic Products Constituents with the Antigens Included in Cosmetic-related Patch Test

BACKGROUND

Currently, cosmetic series (Chemotechnique Diagnostics, Sweden) is the most widely used cosmetic-related patch test in Korea. However, no studies have been conducted on how accurately it reflects the constituents of the cosmetics in Korea.

OBJECTIVE

We surveyed the constituents of various cosmetics and compare with the cosmetic series, to investigate whether it is accurate in determining allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetics sold in Korea.

METHODS

Cosmetics were classified into 11 categories and the survey was conducted on the constituents of 55 cosmetics, with 5 cosmetics in each category. The surveyed constituents were classified by chemical function and compared with the antigens of cosmetic series.

RESULTS

155 constituents were found in 55 cosmetics, and 74 (47.7%) of constituents were included as antigen. Among them, only 20 constituents (27.0%) were included in cosmetic series. A significant number of constituents, such as fragrance, vehicle and surfactant were not included. Only 41.7% of antigens in cosmetic series were found to be in the cosmetics sampled.

CONCLUSION

The constituents not included in the patch test but possess antigenicity are widely used in cosmetics. Therefore, the patch test should be modified to reflect ingredients in the marketed products that may stimulate allergies.