In vivo investigations on the penetration of various oils and their influence on the skin barrier

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Bathing in Atopic Dermatitis in Pediatric Age: Why, How and When

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease. The treatment plays an important role in influencing the patients' quality of life. The basic management consists of appropriate skin cleansing, including bathing and eventually using bathing additives. Recommendations regarding frequency and duration of bathing, water temperature and usefulness of bathing additives are widely different, often leading to confusion among patients. This review aims to give insights into the best bathing practices and the use of bathing additives in atopic dermatitis in children. Several bathing additives, including bleach baths, commercial baby cleansers, bath baby oils and bath salt, appear to be promising adjunctive therapies for atopic dermatitis due to their anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-pruritus and skin barrier repair properties through different mechanisms of action. However, their efficacy and safety are not fully understood in some cases. The usefulness of other bath additives, such as acidic and more natural substances (green tea extracts, pine tar, sodium bicarbonate), is still under investigation. Further studies are needed to determine their optimal use to achieve clinical benefit safely.

Friction Dynamics of Human Skin Treated with Oil under Nonlinear Motion

Moisturization causes physiological changes that improve the barrier function of human skin and mechanical changes, including skin friction characteristics. This study evaluated petrolatum- or silicone oil-treated human skin to determine the effect of moisturizing on the friction dynamics. The friction force on the human skin was measured using a contact probe with a sinusoidal motion. The contact probe was used to rub the skin of the upper arm of 20 subjects. The water content of the stratum corneum, softness, and barrier function of the skin were measured using a corneometer, cutometer, and tewameter, respectively. Both oils reduce the frictional force on the human skin. Simultaneously, silicone oil also reduced the delay time δ, which is the standardized time difference between the frictional force response to contact probe movement. Three typical friction patterns were also discovered, which were significantly changed by the treatment with oil. These changes were attributed to the lubrication effect and elimination of adhesion at the true contact point between the skin and the contact probe.

Diaper dermatitis-a narrative review of clinical presentation, subtypes, and treatment

Diaper dermatitis (DD) is an umbrella term with different clinical presentations, pathophysiology, treatments, and outcomes. The major subtypes include irritant contact dermatitis and candida-associated DD. In case of atypical presentation or unresponsiveness to treatment, other differential diagnoses should be considered. Although DD can occur at any age, it peaks in newborns and infants < 2 years of age. We will focus on this age group in our narrative review.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Clinical Efficacy of Topical or Oral Soy Supplementation in Dermatology: A Systematic Review

Soybean, a legume native to Southeast Asia, serves many nutritional and medical purposes due to its rich source of phytochemicals and its antioxidant activity. Many animal and in vitro studies have demonstrated its potential impact on dermatologic health. The objective of this review is to investigate the clinical response of soy-based oral supplementation or topical application on dermatologic outcomes. A systematic review of studies assessing soy supplementation or application was performed in January 2023. Databases included PubMed, Embase, Cochrane, and Natural Medicines, and studies assessing any formulation that included soybean or associated products were included. Thirty studies met the inclusion criteria and are included in the review; 13 of these studies assessed oral supplementation and 17 assessed topical application. Topical and oral supplementation demonstrated efficacious results for a variety of dermatologic parameters, including chronological or photoaging parameters, skin barrier status, hydration, hyperpigmentation, dermal network composition, erythema, hair and nail parameters, acne lesion counts, and vulvar lichen sclerosis scores. Factors associated with aging, such as wrinkle area and depth, were most frequently assessed among the studies, and both topical and oral studies demonstrated efficacy. Effects are likely mediated by dermal compositional changes, such as increased collagen and/or elastic fiber numbers. Transepidermal water loss measurements, an indicator of skin barrier status, were frequently obtained among the studies, although improvement was more likely achieved with topical application compared to oral supplementation. The results of this review highlight the utility of soy-based products for a variety of dermatologic applications, although future studies are required to determine optimal formulations and application routes for intended outcomes.

Mucosal Delivery of Cannabidiol: Influence of Vehicles and Enhancers

In this study, the mucosal permeation and deposition of cannabidiol (CBD) with neat and binary vehicles were investigated. Permeation experiments were performed using static diffusion cells coupled with fresh porcine esophageal mucosa. The CBD-vehicle solutions were applied at a fixed dose (~5 mg/cm²), and the corresponding permeation parameters were calculated. In neat vehicles, the permeation flux (J_ss) ranged from 0.89 ± 0.15 to 179.81 ± 23.46 µg·cm^-2·h^-1, while the CBD deposition ranged from 11.5 ± 1.8 to 538.3 ± 105.3 μg·cm^-2. Propylene glycol (PG) and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (DEGEE) yielded the highest permeability (P_s) and CBD deposition, while medium-chain triglycerides (MCT) yielded the lowest P_s and deposition. This was due to the difference in apparent partition coefficient (K), which is related to the solubility of CBD in the vehicle. The PG:DEGEE binary vehicle boosted J_ss (1.5-1.6 fold) and deposition (2.0-2.7 folds) significantly, compared to neat DEGEE. The combination of DEGEE with MCT dramatically enhanced J_ss (11-44 fold) and deposition (1.6-4.7 fold). The addition of lipophilic enhancers, laurocapram, and oleic acid, to PG:DEGEE and DEGEE:MCT vehicles significantly reduced J_ss (0.3-0.7 fold) and deposition (0.4-0.8 fold) while nerolidol had no effect. These permeation reductions were found to be related to modification of the K and/or diffusivity values. This study provides useful basic information for the development of CBD formulations intended for transmucosal delivery.

Dermal Penetration Studies of Potential Phenolic Compounds Ex Vivo and Their Antioxidant Activity In Vitro

Phenolic compounds with miscellaneous biological activities are an interesting component in dermatology and cosmetology practices. The aim of our study was to determine the phenolic compounds released from emulsion, emulgel, gel, ointment, and oleogel formulations penetration into human skin layers, both the epidermis and dermis, and estimate their antioxidant activity. The ex vivo penetration study was performed using Bronaugh type flow-through diffusion cells. Penetration studies revealed that, within 24 h, the chlorogenic acid released from the oleogel penetrated into skin layers to a depth of 2.0 ± 0.1 µg/mL in the epidermis and 1.5 ± 0.07 µg/mL in the dermis. The oleogel-released complex of phenolic compounds penetrating into epidermis showed the strongest DPPH free radical scavenging activity (281.8 ± 14.1 µM TE/L). The study estimated a strong positive correlation (r = 0.729) between the amount of quercetin penetrated into epidermis and the antioxidant activity detected in the epidermis extract. Plant based phenolic compounds demonstrated antioxidant activity and showed great permeability properties through the skin.

Ex vivo permeation parameters and skin deposition of melatonin-loaded microemulsion for treatment of alopecia

Background

Melatonin (MEL) is a powerful antioxidant molecule with anti-androgenic property. A microemulsion (ME) system loaded with MEL was designed for treatment of androgenic alopecia. Pseudo-ternary phase diagram was constructed, and ME formulae were developed using coconut oil, Tween 80 and PEG 400. In the present study, MEL ME was characterized and evaluated for droplet size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, morphology using TEM imaging. MEL ex vivo permeation study through rat skin followed by tape stripping for stratum corneum (SC) was performed for different ME formulae, to determine skin permeation parameters and detect SC-MEL deposition.

Results

Spherical and uniform particles of MEL-loaded microemulsion were formulated with high stability. In ex vivo permeation study, MEL ME exhibited low steady-state skin flux along with pronounced SC deposition which prevailed a controlled release manner.

Conclusion

The results suggested that MEL ME could be a promising candidate for further permeation and in vivo studies for androgenic alopecia treatment.

Understanding Formulation and Temperature Effects on Dermal Transport Kinetics by IVPT and Multiphysics Simulation

PURPOSE

It is often unclear how complex topical product formulation factors influence the transport kinetics through skin tissue layers, because of multiple confounding attributes. Environmental factors such as temperature effect are also poorly understood. In vitro permeation testing (IVPT) is frequently used to evaluate drug absorption across skin, but the flux results from these studies are from a combination of mechanistic processes.

METHOD

Two different commercially available formulations of oxybenzone-containing sunscreen cream and continuous spray were evaluated by IVPT in human skin. Temperature influence between typical skin surface temperature (32°C) and an elevated 37°C was also assessed. Furthermore, a multiphysics-based simulation model was developed and utilized to compute the flux of modeled formulations.

RESULTS

Drug transport kinetics differed significantly between the two drug products. Flux was greatly influenced by the environmental temperature. The multiphysical simulation results could reproduce the experimental observations. The computation further indicated that the drug diffusion coefficient plays a dominant role in drug transport kinetics, influenced by the water content which is also affected by temperature.

CONCLUSION

The in vitro testing and bottom-up simulation shed insight into the mechanism of dermal absorption kinetics from dissimilar topical products.

Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil's use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin's structural integrity.

Systematic Review on the Effectiveness of Essential and Carrier Oils as Skin Penetration Enhancers in Pharmaceutical Formulations

Oils, including essential oils and their constituents, are widely reported to have penetration enhancement activity and have been incorporated into a wide range of pharmaceutical formulations. This study sought to determine if there is an evidence base for the selection of appropriate oils for particular applications and compare their effectiveness across different formulation types. A systematic review of the data sources, consisting of Google Scholar, EMBASE, PubMed, Medline, and Scopus, was carried out and, following screening and quality assessment, 112 articles were included within the analysis. The research was classified according to the active pharmaceutical ingredient, dosage form, in vitro/in vivo study, carrier material(s), penetration enhancers as essential oils, and other chemical enhancers. The review identified four groups of oils used in the formulation of skin preparations; in order of popularity, these are terpene-type essential oils (63%), fatty acid-containing essential oils (29%) and, finally, 8% of essential oils comprising Vitamin E derivatives and miscellaneous essential oils. It was concluded that terpene essential oils may have benefits over the fatty acid-containing oils, and their incorporation into advanced pharmaceutical formulations such as nanoemulsions, microemulsions, vesicular systems, and transdermal patches makes them an attractive proposition to enhance drug permeation through the skin.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations

BACKGROUND

The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

AIM

This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.

METHOD

The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

CONCLUSION

Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as 'active' ingredients rather than just providing for so-called 'natural' claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils - Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose, and Jojoba - in terms of their cosmetic applications as 'active' ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions, and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration, and toxicity, cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear, that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils, do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

Propolis - quality analysis and use in topical formulations

The aim of this study was to produce propolis extracts, assess their quality and effect on skin cells and determine the penetration of active ingredients from designed semi-solid topical formulations. The use of higher-concentration ethanol and a larger amount of raw material allows extracting a larger quantity of active ingredients from raw propolis. Ultrasound extraction is an effective method for the production of aqueous extracts of propolis. The results show that depending on concentration, propolis extracts reduce the viability of keratinocytes. The phenolic compounds under observation penetrated the epidermis and dermis from designed formulations. The base of semi-solid formulation influences the efficacy of propolis preparations. The overall quantity of phenolic compounds that penetrated the skin was around 2 % from the ointment and 1.5 % from the cream.

Performance of Oleic Acid and Soybean Oil in the Preparation of Oil-in-Water Microemulsions for Encapsulating a Highly Hydrophobic Molecule

This work analyzes the dispersion of a highly hydrophobic molecule, (9Z)-N-(1,3-dihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl)octadec-9-enamide (ceramide-like molecule), with cosmetic and pharmaceutical interest, by exploiting oil-in-water microemulsions. Two different oils, oleic acid and soybean oil, were tested as an oil phase while mixtures of laureth-5-carboxylic acid (Akypo) and 2-propanol were used for the stabilization of the dispersions. This allowed us to obtain stable aqueous-based formulations with a relatively reduced content of oily phase (around 3% w/w), that may enhance the bioavailability of this molecule by its solubilization in nanometric oil droplets (with a size range of 30–80 nm), that allow the incorporation of a ceramide-like molecule of up to 3% w/w, to remain stable for more than a year. The nanometric size of the droplet containing the active ingredient and the stability of the formulations provide the basis for evaluating the efficiency of microemulsions in preparing formulations to enhance the distribution and availability of ceramide-like molecules, helping to reach targets in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

Anti-Herpes Simplex 1 Activity of Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Wax

Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis (Link) Schneider) wax is used for various dermatological and pharmaceutical applications. Several reports have previously shown beneficial properties of Jojoba wax and extracts, including antimicrobial activity. The current research aimed to elucidate the impact of Jojoba wax on skin residential bacterial (Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis), fungal (Malassezia furfur), and virus infection (herpes simplex 1; HSV-1). First, the capacity of four commercial wax preparations to attenuate their growth was evaluated. The results suggest that the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Malassezia furfur was unaffected by Jojoba in pharmacologically relevant concentrations. However, the wax significantly attenuated HSV-1 plaque formation. Next, a complete dose–response analysis of four different Jojoba varieties (Benzioni, Shiloah, Hatzerim, and Sheva) revealed a similar anti-viral effect with high potency (EC₅₀ of 0.96 ± 0.4 µg/mL) that blocked HSV-1 plaque formation. The antiviral activity of the wax was also confirmed by real-time PCR, as well as viral protein expression by immunohistochemical staining. Chemical characterization of the fatty acid and fatty alcohol composition was performed, showing high similarity between the wax of the investigated varieties. Lastly, our results demonstrate that the observed effects are independent of simmondsin, repeatedly associated with the medicinal impact of Jojoba wax, and that Jojoba wax presence is required to gain protection against HSV-1 infection. Collectively, our results support the use of Jojoba wax against HSV-1 skin infections.

Almond oil: A comprehensive review of chemical composition, extraction methods, preservation conditions, potential health benefits, and safety

Almond oil, a rich source of macronutrients and micronutrients, is extracted for food flavorings and the cosmetics industry. In recent years, the need for high-quality and high-quantity production of almond oil for human consumption has been increased. The present review examines the chemical composition of almond oil, storage conditions, and clinical evidence supporting the health benefits of almond oil. From the reviewed studies, it appears that almond oil contains a significant proportion of poly and monounsaturated fatty acids, with oleic acid as the main compound, and an important amount of tocopherol and phytosterol content. Some variations in almond oil composition can be found depending on the kernel's origin and the extraction system used. Some new technologies such as ultrasonic-assisted extraction, supercritical fluid extraction, subcritical fluid extraction, and salt-assisted aqueous extraction have emerged as the most promising extraction techniques that allow eco-friendly and effective recovery of almond oil. This safe oil was reported by several clinical studies to have potential roles in cardiovascular risk management, glucose homeostasis, oxidative stress reduction, neuroprotection, and many dermatologic and cosmetic applications. However, the anticarcinogenic and fertility benefits of almond oil have yet to be experimentally verified.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Characterizing the Mechanism of Action of Essential Oils on Skin Homeostasis—Data from Sonographic Imaging, Epidermal Water Dynamics, and Skin Biomechanics

Essential oils (EOs) have been recognized as materials of interest for dermatological applications, although some doubts remain regarding their safety and efficacy. We studied the action mechanisms of EOs from lavender and sage in human skin. Extracted EOs were incorporated (at 5% and 10%) in almond oil as a vehicle. Eleven healthy volunteers were selected and the prepared oils were tested on both forearms. All procedures respected the principles of good clinical practice. Effects were followed through high resolution sonography (HRS), epidermal water dynamics, and biomechanics. All variables were measured before and 30 min after application. Nonparametric statistical comparisons were applied (p < 0.05). HRS revealed a more echogenic epidermis, with a significant echogenicity decrease in the dermis (higher water retention) for all formulations. Significant TEWL decrease and an increase in superficial and deep epidermal hydration were also observed. These results indicate that EOs penetrate only into the most superficial layers of the skin, which is important for their safety profile. Furthermore, this “filmogenic” mechanism improving the epidermal water balance seems to connect directly with the observed biomechanical enhancement. These results confirm the clinical relevance of these compounds, in particular to restore the epidermal water content and prevent xerosis and other related disorders in sensitive (atopic, elderly) patients.

African oils in dermatology

Plant and seed oils have been used for centuries and possibly millennia in Nigeria and Africa for the maintenance of healthy skin and the traditional treatment of skin disorders. In recent times, some of these oils have regained popularity due to their availability and affordability coupled with concerns about the side effects of commercially processed skin care products. This is to assess the chemical properties, current knowledge, source of procurement, indications for topical use, benefits, and possible adverse effects of six plant oils and one animal fat commonly used in Nigeria. This is a literature review and interview with traditional healers and alternative health practitioners to document the traditional, medical, cosmetics, and other usage of oils for skin and scalp care in the African context. Literature review was done on the biochemical and pharmacological properties of each of the seven oils. Searches were made from PubMed, African Journal online, Medline, and Google scholar. Medical subject heading terms used in the search include shea butter, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, soy oil, Baobab oil, and python oil. Plant and seed oils used locally in Nigeria and other African countries for skin care and treatment have several benefits due to the constituents of the plant oils (free fatty acids, triglycerides, ceramides, phospholipids, vitamins and antioxidants) which have been shown to promote healthy skin barrier function, wound healing and have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. They are however not without adverse effects, which may be mainly due to processing and storage hygiene. Further studies are required on these oils in view of their potential in the development of novel skincare products and dermatological therapies.

Changes in Skin Barrier Function after Repeated Exposition to Phospholipid-Based Surfactants and Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate In Vivo and Corneocyte Surface Analysis by Atomic Force Microscopy

(1) Background: The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of pure lecithins in comparison to a conventional surfactant on skin in vivo. (2) Methods: Physiological skin parameters were evaluated at the beginning and the end of the study (day 1 and day 4) (n = 8, healthy forearm skin) with an Aquaflux^®, skin-pH-Meter, Corneometer^® and an Epsilon^® sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor natural moisturizing factor, urea and water content of the participants' skin. Tape strips of treated skin sites were taken and the collected corneocytes were subjected to atomic force microscopy. Circular nano objects were counted, and dermal texture indices were determined. (3) Results: Transepidermal water loss was increased, and skin hydration was decreased after treatment with SDS and LPC80. Natural moisturizing factor and urea concentrations within the outermost 10 µm of the stratum corneum were lower than after treatment with S75 or water. Dermal texture indices of skin treated with SDS were higher than skin treated with water (control). (4) Conclusions: Results suggest very good (S75) or good (LPC80) skin-tolerability of lecithin-based surfactants in comparison to SDS and encourage further investigation.

Foray into Concepts of Design and Evaluation of Microemulsions as a Modern Approach for Topical Applications in Acne Pathology

With a fascinating complexity, governed by multiple physiological processes, the skin is considered a mantle with protective functions which during lifetime are frequently impaired, triggering dermatologic disorders. As one of the most prevalent dermatologic conditions worldwide, characterized by a complex pathogenesis and a high recurrence, acne can affect the patient's quality of life. Smart topical vehicles represent a good option in the treatment of a versatile skin condition. By surpassing the stratum corneum known for diffusional resistance, a superior topical bioavailability can be obtained at the affected place. In this direction, the literature study presents microemulsions as a part of a condensed group of modern formulations. Microemulsions are appreciated for their superior profile in matters of drug delivery, especially for challenging substances with hydrophilic or lipophilic structures. Formulated as transparent and thermodynamically stable systems, using simplified methods of preparation, microemulsions have a simple and clear appearance. Their unique structures can be explained as a function of the formulation parameters which were found to be the mainstay of a targeted therapy.

Topical corticosteroid vehicle composition and implications for clinical practice

This narrative review highlights the therapeutic significance of topical corticosteroid (TCS) vehicles and provides subsequent guidance to improve clinical and research outcomes. A greater understanding of the relationship between the topical vehicle, corticosteroid and skin is needed to ensure safer, more effective treatment for patients. Topical vehicles are not inert and can affect TCS bioavailability, due to the ability of their composition to positively or negatively influence skin status and change the physiochemical characteristics of an inherent corticosteroid. However, this principle is not commonly understood, and has contributed to inconsistencies in potency classification systems. This review provides an insight into the research methods and standardization needed to determine TCS product bioavailability. It identifies formulation components responsible for vehicle composition that underpin the quality, stability, compounding and functionalities of vehicle ingredients. This helps to contextualize how topical vehicles can be responsible for clinically significant effects, and how their composition gives products unique properties. In turn, this facilitates a more in-depth understanding of which resources offer information to inform the best selection of TCS products and why products should be prescribed by brand or manufacturer. This review will better equip clinicians and formulary teams to appraise products. It will also inform prescribing of Specials and why products should not be manipulated. The recommendations, accompanied by patient perspectives on using TCS products, assist clinical decision-making. They also identify the need for research into concomitant application of TCS products with other topical therapies.

Topical Administration of Cannabidiol: Influence of Vehicle-Related Aspects on Skin Permeation Process

Cannabidiol (CBD) is a non-psychoactive cannabinoid isolated from Cannabis sativa which, given its claimed beneficial properties and therapeutic potential, has lately aroused considerable attention from the scientific community. Starting from the little literature evidence, the main purpose of this study was to investigate the topical administration of CBD, with particular focus on the influence of vehicle-related aspects on the skin permeation process. This could provide useful information for the design of suitable drug delivery systems which could be used in developing topical medicines and cosmetics. In vitro human skin permeation studies were conducted using modified Franz diffusion cells to compare the performance of four solutions and two semisolid formulations. The Hildebrand solubility parameter was used to better understand the thermodynamic aspects implied in the partitioning process of the cannabinoid compound into the skin. It was interestingly found that a hydrophilic gel, mostly consisting of propylene glycol (79%, w/w), can be an optimal choice for the topical administration of CBD. Moreover, the feasibility of the preparation of CBD-loaded (trans)dermal patches, made with new printing technology, was also demonstrated.

Evaluating lubricant performance to reduce COVID-19 PPE-related skin injury

BACKGROUND

Healthcare workers around the world are experiencing skin injury due to the extended use of personal protective equipment (PPE) during the COVID-19 pandemic. These injuries are the result of high shear stresses acting on the skin, caused by friction with the PPE. This study aims to provide a practical lubricating solution for frontline medical staff working a 4+ hours shift wearing PPE.

METHODS

A literature review into skin friction and skin lubrication was conducted to identify products and substances that can reduce friction. We evaluated the lubricating performance of commercially available products in vivo using a custom-built tribometer.

FINDINGS

Most lubricants provide a strong initial friction reduction, but only few products provide lubrication that lasts for four hours. The response of skin to friction is a complex interplay between the lubricating properties and durability of the film deposited on the surface and the response of skin to the lubricating substance, which include epidermal absorption, occlusion, and water retention.

INTERPRETATION

Talcum powder, a petrolatum-lanolin mixture, and a coconut oil-cocoa butter-beeswax mixture showed excellent long-lasting low friction. Moisturising the skin results in excessive friction, and the use of products that are aimed at 'moisturising without leaving a non-greasy feel' should be prevented. Most investigated dressings also demonstrate excellent performance.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis - a position paper

BACKGROUND AND RATIONALE

Xerosis cutis (also referred to as xeroderma, dry skin, asteatosis) affects more than 10 million individuals in Germany. It is among the most common dermatological diagnoses and a cardinal symptom of many dermatological, internal and neurological diseases. Even though it has been established that basic skin care plays a significant role in the management of patients with xerosis cutis, there are as yet no evidence-based algorithms for diagnosis and treatment.

OBJECTIVE

The present position paper provides physicians across all specialties with a practical, symptom-based approach to the prevention, diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis.

METHODS

Within a structured decision-making process, a panel of experienced dermatologists first defined questions relevant to everyday clinical practice, which were then addressed by a systematic review of the literature. Based on the evidence available as well as expert consensus, diagnostic and treatment algorithms were subsequently developed and agreed upon.

RESULTS

Xerosis cutis is generally diagnosed on clinical grounds. Possible trigger factors must be avoided, and comorbidities should be adequately and specifically treated. Suitable skin care products should be chosen with a view to improving skin hydration and restoring its barrier function. They should therefore contain both rehydrating and lipid-replenishing components. The "drier" the skin appears, the greater the lipid content should be (preferably using water-in-oil formulations). The choice of ingredients is based on a patient's individual symptoms, such as scaling (e.g., urea), fissures/rhagades (e.g., urea or dexpanthenol), erythema (e.g., licochalcone A) and pruritus (e.g., polidocanol). Other factors to be considered include the site affected and patient age. Ingredients or rather combinations thereof for which there is good clinical evidence should be preferentially used. The best evidence by far is available for urea, whose efficacy in the treatment of xerosis is further enhanced by combining it with other natural moisturizing components and ceramides. The "xerosimeter" is a tool developed in an effort to facilitate patient management and for training purposes. It not only includes practical tools for diagnosis and follow-up but also a classification of ingredients and a structured treatment algorithm.

CONCLUSION

The structured symptom- and evidence-based approach proposed herein contains a road map for diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis. It aims to raise awareness in terms of prevention and early treatment of this condition and may thus improve quality of life and prevent potential sequelae.

Response to comment by Puppels et al. on "A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo Raman microscopy"

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil-induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils.

The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care

Botanical oils have a long history of traditional use and are routinely applied to skin care. The focus of this review is to contrast the functionality of skin oils versus the differential biological and toxicological effects of major plant oils, and to correlate them to their compositional changes. In total, over 70 vegetable oils were clustered according to their lipid composition to promote awareness of health practitioners and botanical product manufacturers for the safety and efficacy of oil-based interventions based on their fatty acid profiles. Since multiple skin disorders result in depletion or disturbance of skin lipids, a tailored mixture of multiple botanical oils to simultaneously maintain natural skin-barrier function, promote repair and regeneration of wounded tissues, and achieve corrective modulation of immune disorders may be required. As bioactive constituents of botanical oils enter the human body by oral or topical application and often accumulate in measurable blood concentrations, there is also a critical need for monitoring their hazardous effects to reduce the possible over-added toxicity and promote maximal normal tissue sparing. The review also provides a useful tool to improve efficacy and functionality of fatty acid profiles in cosmetic applications.

Nanomedicines to Treat Skin Pathologies with Natural Molecules

The skin and mucous membranes are subjected to many disorders and pathological conditions. Nature offers a wide range of molecules with antioxidant activity able to neutralize, at least in part, the formation of free radicals and therefore to counteract the phenomena of cellular aging. Since synthetic drugs for the treatment of skin diseases can induce resistance, it is particularly interesting to use compounds of plant origin, transporting them in pharmaceutical forms capable of controlling their release and absorption. This review provides an overview of new findings about the use of lipid-based nanosystems for the delivery of natural molecules useful on the topical treatment of skin disorders. Several natural molecules encapsulated in lipid nanosystems have been considered in the treatment of some skin pathologies or diseases. Particularly, the use of rosemary and eucalyptus essential oil, saffron derivatives, curcumin, eugenol, capsaicin, thymol and lycopene has been reported. The molecules have been alternatively encapsulated in viscous systems, such as the organogels, or in liquid systems, such as ethosomes, transferosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles and monoolein based dispersions thickened by inclusion in carbomer gels. The nanostructured forms have been in vitro and in vivo investigated for the treatment of skin disorders due to dehydration, inflammation, melanoma, wound healing, fungal infections or psoriasis. The data reported in the different studies have suggested that the cutaneous application of lipid nanosystems allows a deep interaction between lipid matrix and skin strata, promoting a prolonged release and efficacy of the loaded natural molecules. This review suggests that the application of natural molecules onto the skin by lipid-based nanosystems can provide numerous clinician benefits in dermatology and cosmetics.

Optimized skin optical clearing for optical coherence tomography monitoring of encapsulated drug delivery through the hair follicles

Hair follicles (HF) represent a drug delivery reservoir for improved treatment of skin disorders. Although various particulate systems play an important role in HF-targeting, their optical monitoring in skin is challenging due to strong light scattering. Optical clearing is an effective approach allowing the increasing of particle detection depth in skin. The enhancement of optical probing depth (OPD) and optical detection depth (ODD) of particle localization using optical coherence tomography (OCT) was evaluated under application of various optical clearing agents (OCAs) together with skin permeability enhancers ex vivo in rats. Efficient OPD increasing was demonstrated for all investigated OCAs. However, skin dehydration under action of hyperosmotic agents led to the worsening of OCT-contrast in dermis decreasing the ODD. Lipophilic agents provided optical clearing of epidermis without its dehydration. The highest ODD was obtained at application of a PEG-400/oleic acid mixture. This OCA was tested in vivo showing beneficial ODD and OPD enhancement.

Lower limb massage in humans increases local perfusion and impacts systemic hemodynamics

Massage is commonly used as a complementary therapy for many different conditions. Demonstration of its physiological impact and understanding of its therapeutic mechanisms is still insufficient and often inconclusive. This study aims to characterize the physiological effects of effleurage, one of the most popular techniques, on human in vivo microcirculation and its impact on cardiovascular function. Two differently oriented variations of the technique, referred to influence physiological outcomes, were applied to 32 young (mean 19.8 ± 1.6 yr old) healthy volunteers of both sexes in a single, randomly chosen limb after informed written consent. Each protocol included a 10-min baseline (Phase I), a 5-min massage (Phase II), and a 10-min recovery (Phase III) register. A 30-min washout period separated both protocols. Perfusion was assessed by laser Doppler flowmetry (LDF) and reflection photoplethysmography (PPG), with their sensors applied distally in both feet. Blood pressure and pulse were also obtained. LDF signals were further analyzed in their components by the (Morlet) wavelet transform to probe the mechanisms involved. Results showed that effleurage consistently evoked a significant (P < 0.001) perfusion increase in the massaged limb, also visible in the contralateral limb (not significant) independently from the orientation (variant) used. No matter the perfusion differences known between sexes, the adaptive response was equivalent in both sexes. The component analysis of the LDF curves also suggests that these procedures, although brief and superficial, do modify multiple components of cardiovascular integration, with cardiac, respiratory, and myogenic components appearing to play a major role in reestablishing distal microcirculatory homeostasis.NEW & NOTEWORTHY The impact of effleurage, a well-known massage procedure used in human rehabilitation, in the lower limb hemodynamics, is demonstrated. When applied in a sole limb, massage increases skin microcirculatory flowmotion not only locally but also beyond, affecting systemic hemodynamics. This observation is an interesting example of the efficacy of cardiovascular integration mechanisms involving distal microcirculatory homeostasis. The proposed methodology allows a mechanistic view over skin flowmotion regulation, being applicable to further explore massage and its impact on microcirculatory physiology.

Effects of lecithin-based nanoemulsions on skin: Short-time cytotoxicity MTT and BrdU studies, skin penetration of surfactants and additives and the delivery of curcumin

Surfactants are important ingredients in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations, as in creams, shampoos or shower gels. As conventional emulsifiers such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) have fallen into disrepute due to their skin irritation potential, the naturally occurring lecithins are being investigated as a potential alternative. Thus, lecithin-based nanoemulsions with and without the drug curcumin, known for its wound healing properties, were produced and characterised in terms of their particle size, polydispersity index (PDI) and zeta potential and compared to SDS-based formulations. In vitro toxicity of the produced blank nanoemulsions was assessed with primary human keratinocytes and fibroblasts using two different cell viability assays (BrdU and EZ4U). Further, we investigated the penetration profiles of the deployed surfactants and oil components using combined ATR-FTIR/tape stripping experiments and confirmed the ability of the lecithin-based nanoemulsions to deliver curcumin into the stratum corneum in tape stripping-UV/Vis experiments. All manufactured nanoemulsions showed droplet sizes under 250 nm with satisfying PDI and zeta potential values. Viability assays with human skin cells clearly indicated that lecithin-based nanoemulsions were superior to SDS-based formulations. ATR-FTIR tests showed that lecithin and oil components remained in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum, suggesting a low risk for skin irritation. Ex vivo tape stripping experiments revealed that the kind of oil used in the nanoemulsion seemed to influence the depth of curcumin penetration into the stratum corneum.

Therapeutic Effects of Cold-Pressed Perilla Oil Mainly Consisting of Linolenic acid, Oleic Acid and Linoleic Acid on UV-Induced Photoaging in NHDF Cells and SKH-1 Hairless Mice

Positive physiological benefits of several plant oils on the UV-induced photoaging have been reported in some cell lines and model mice, but perilla oil collected from the seeds of Perilla frutescens L. has not been investigated in this context. To study the therapeutic effects of cold-pressed perilla oil (CPO) on UV-induced photoaging in vitro and in vivo, UV-induced cellular damage and cutaneous photoaging were assessed in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) and HR-1 hairless mice. CPO contained five major fatty acids including linolenic acid (64.11%), oleic acid (16.34%), linoleic acid (11.87%), palmitic acid (5.06%), and stearic acid (2.48%). UV-induced reductions in NHDF cell viability, ROS production, SOD activity, and G2/M cell cycle arrest were remarkably improved in UV + CPO treated NHDF cells as compared with UV + Vehicle treated controls. Also, UV-induced increases in MMP-1 protein and galactosidase levels were remarkably suppressed by CPO. In UV-radiated hairless mice, topical application of CPO inhibited an increase in wrinkle formation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema value, hydration and melanin index on dorsal skin of UVB-irradiated hairless mice. CPO was observed to similarly suppress UV-induced increases in epidermal thickness, mast cell numbers, and galactosidase and MMP-3 mRNA levels. These results suggest CPO has therapeutic potential in terms of protecting against skin photoaging by regulating skin morphology, histopathology and oxidative status.

Mineral oil in food, cosmetic products, and in products regulated by other legislations

For a few years, mineral oils and their potential adverse health effects have been a constant issue of concern in many regulatory areas such as food, cosmetics, other consumer products, and industrial chemicals. Analytically, two fractions can be distinguished: mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons (MOSH) and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons (MOAH). This paper aims at assessing the bioaccumulative potential and associated histopathological effects of MOSH as well as the carcinogenic potential of MOAH for consumer-relevant mineral oils. It also covers the absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion of MOSH and MOAH upon oral and dermal exposures. The use and occurrence of consumer-relevant, highly refined mineral oils in food, cosmetics and medicinal products are summarized, and estimates for the exposure of consumers are provided. Also addressed are the challenges in characterizing the substance identity of mineral oil products under REACH. Evidence from more recent autopsy and biopsy studies, along with information on decreasing food contamination levels, indicates a low risk for adverse hepatic lesions that may arise from the retention of MOSH in the liver. With respect to MOAH, at present there is no indication of any carcinogenic effects in animals dermally or orally exposed to highly refined mineral oils and waxes. Such products are used not only in cosmetics but also in medicinal products and as additives in food contact materials. The safety of these mineral oil-containing products is thus indirectly documented by their prevalent and long-term use, with a simultaneous lack of clinical and epidemiological evidence for adverse health effects.

Laser scanning microscopy for control of skin decontamination efficacy from airborne particulates using highly absorbent textile nanofiber material in combination with PEG-12 dimethicone

BACKGROUND

The decontamination of the skin is indispensable if airborne particulate contaminants deposit on the skin surface. Skin washing can have adverse effects as by skin rubbing the particles can be transferred deeply into the hair follicles, where they can be entrapped for a period of more than 10 days. Thus, alternative skin decontamination strategies are necessary.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For imaging the contaminants in the skin, sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) were visualized using laser scanning microscopy.

RESULTS

In the present ex vivo pilot study on porcine ear skin, it was shown that sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) could be efficiently removed from the skin with highly absorbent textile nanofiber material, whose efficacy could be further increased by spraying the contaminated skin area with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone before textile application.

CONCLUSION

In case of skin contamination with particulates, the contact washing should be avoided due to rubbing particles deeply into the hair follicles, where they can accumulate for a long time and induce negative consequences. Efficient skin decontamination could include pretreatment of skin surface with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone and subsequent application of highly absorbent textile nanofiber material.

A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil-treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm^-1 . The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin at 2930 cm^-1 . The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil-treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil- and keratin-related Raman bands at 2930 cm^-1 . The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.

Vegetable butters and oils in skin wound healing: Scientific evidence for new opportunities in dermatology

The use of vegetable butters and oils shows promising results in the treatment of skin wounds, as they have an effective impact on the phases of the wound-healing process through their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidative activities and by promoting cell proliferation, increasing collagen synthesis, stimulating dermal reconstruction, and repairing the skin's lipid barrier function. In this article, in vitro and in vivo studies of argan (Argania spinosa), avocado (Persea americana), black cumin (Nigella sativa), calophyllum (Calophyllum inophyllum), coconut (Cocos nucifera), cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon), grape (Vitis vinifera), green coffee (Coffea arabica), lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus), linseed (Linum usitatissimum), lucuma (Pouteria lucuma), mango (Mangifera indica), olive (Olea europaea), pomegranate (Punica granatum), pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo), rapeseed (Brassica napus), sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), and sunflower (Helianthus annuus) oils were reviewed. In many cases, vegetable oils proved to be more effective than synthetic wound-healing compounds used as controls. The fatty-acid components of vegetable oils are assumed to play a major role in the wound-healing process, in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic acid. Evidence shows that oils with a higher linoleic to oleic acid ratio are more effective for lipid barrier repair. However, in depth studies are needed to gain knowledge about vegetable oils' effects on the skin and vice versa.

Combined use of ivermectin, dimethyl sulfoxide, mineral oil and nematophagous fungi to control Rhabditis spp

Rhabditis spp., is a nematode known to cause otitis externa, an infection difficult to control, in cattle reared within tropical regions. The objective of this study was to assess the combined use of ivermectin 1%, dimethyl sulfoxide 1% and mineral oil 100% containing nematophagous fungi of both Duddingtonia flagrans (AC001) and Monacrosporium thaumasium (NF34) species to control in vitro Rhabditis spp. Thus, 12 experimental groups were designed with eight replicates each: G1 (nematodes + AC001); G2 (nematodes + NF34); G3 (nematodes + ivermectin 1%/positive control); G4 (nematodes + dimethyl sulfoxide 1%/positive control); G5 (nematodes + mineral oil 100%/positive control); G6 (nematodes + AC001 + ivermectin 1%); G7 (nematodes + NF34 + ivermectin 1%); G8 (nematodes + AC001 + mineral oil 100%); G9 (nematodes + NF34 + mineral oil 100%); G10 (nematodes + AC001 + dimethyl sulfoxide 1%); G11 (nematode + NF34 + dimethyl sulfoxide 1%); G12 (nematode + distilled water/negative control). The results demonstrated that all experimentally treated groups differed statistically (p < 0.01) from the control group. In the present study, the use of dimethyl sulfoxide 1% and mineral oil 100% in conjunction with conidia fungi portrayed noteworthy outcomes, which represents a future premise for the combined use of nematophagous fungi within these vehicles in both controlling Rhabditis spp.

Acute Effects of Transdermal Administration of Jojoba Oil on Lipid Metabolism in Mice

Background and objectives: Aroma therapy is a complementary therapy using essential oils diluted with carrier oils. Jojoba oils have been widely used as carrier oils. However, limited information is available regarding their effects on blood biochemical parameters. This study aimed to investigate the effect of transdermal administration of jojoba oil on blood biochemical parameters in mice. Materials and Methods: Eight-week-old male hairless mice were randomly divided into naïve control and treatment groups. In the treatment group, mice were topically administered 4 μL of jojoba oil, per gram of body weight, on the dorsa 30 min before euthanasia. Thereafter, serum biochemical parameters were assayed, and gene expression was analyzed in various tissues via a real-time polymerase chain reaction. Results: Serum non-esterified fatty acid (NEFA) levels increased significantly 30 min after topical application of jojoba oil (p < 0.05). Atgl was significantly upregulated in the liver (p < 0.05), and Atgl upregulation in the liver was positively correlated with serum NEFA levels (r = 0.592, p < 0.05). Furthermore, a trend of decreasing fatty acid trafficking-related gene (FABPpm, FATP-1, FATP-3, and FATP-4) expression in the skin after topical application of jojoba oil (p = 0.067, 0.074, 0.076, and 0.082, respectively) was observed. Conclusions: Serum NEFA levels were elevated 30 min after transdermal administration of jojoba oil. The mechanisms of elevated serum NEFA levels might be related to both enhanced lipolysis in the liver and reduced fatty acid trafficking in the skin.

Prophylactic NS-21 maintains the skin moisture but does not reduce the severity of radiation dermatitis in patients with head and neck cancer: a randomized control trial

Background

To evaluate the practicality of NS-21 cream with regard to its skin-related toxicity in patients with head and neck cancer (HNC) who are undergoing concurrent chemoradiation therapy (CCRT) or radiotherapy (RT).

Methods

Between July 2015 and November 2017, 30 HNC patients who underwent RT or CCRT were randomly allocated to receive either NS-21 or control treatment on their irradiated skin three times per day, starting at the initiation of RT or CCRT and ending 2 weeks after the completion of RT or until the appearance of grade 3 acute radiation dermatitis (ARD). Dermatitis was recorded weekly according to the Common Terminology Criteria for Adverse Events (CTCAE) version 4.0. Skin humidity was monitored by a digital moisture meter. The generalized estimating equation (GEE) and logit link function method were used for statistical analysis.

Results

No serious adverse events were observed in either group. Itching dermatitis occurred on the right lower neck in one patient of the NS-21 group during the 3rd week of CCRT, but the severity was mild. The median skin moisture value at the time of the final treatment was significantly different between the study and control groups (30.6 vs. 27.3, p = 0.013). Additionally, there was an inverse relationship between skin moisture and ARD grade (B = -0.04, p = 0.005). The incidence of ARD at the time of the last treatment was not significantly different between the study and control groups (6.7% vs 26.7%, p = 0.165). The risk of grade 3 ARD for skin that had received an irradiation dose of 47–70 Gy was higher than that of skin that had received an irradiation dose ≤46 Gy (OR = 31.06, 95% CI =5.95–162.21, p < 0.001). Nevertheless, the risk of ARD was not significantly different between the groups (OR = 0.38, 95% CI = 0.08–1.74, p = 0.212).

Conclusions

NS-21 was well tolerated and effective for the maintenance of skin moisture; however, there was no statistically significant reduction in the risk of ARD in HNC patients undergoing RT or CCRT when compared with HNC patients in the control group.

Trial registration

The study was approved by the Institutional Review Board of Far Eastern Memorial Hospital (FEMH-IRB, 104048-F), Registered 1st June 2015,