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Ćirić I, Dabić Zagorac D, Sredojević M, Fotirić Akšić M, Rabrenović B, Blagojević S, Natić M. Valorisation of Raspberry Seeds in Cosmetic Industry-Green Solutions. Pharmaceutics 2024; 16:606. [PMID: 38794268 PMCID: PMC11124771 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics16050606] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/04/2024] [Revised: 04/26/2024] [Accepted: 04/27/2024] [Indexed: 05/26/2024] Open
Abstract
The fruit processing industry generates large quantities of by-products well known to be rich in bioactive compounds with numerous nutritional properties and beneficial effects for human health. We developed a strategy to valorise raspberry seeds and obtain valuable ingredients with potential application in cosmetic skincare formulas. Cold press extraction technology was applied to extract oil, and the remaining defatted raspberry seed cake was treated with three proline based deep eutectic solvents (DES) to extract polyphenols. The most potent was proline/citric acid extract, with free and total ellagic acid content (52.4 mg/L and 86.4 mg/L), total phenolic content (TPC, 550.1 mg GAE/L) and radical scavenging activity (RSA, 4742.7 mmol TE/L). After the direct mixing of the extract and after encapsulation with starch as a carrier, the skincare emulsion and microemulsion were characterised by irritation potential (Zein test), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), red blood cell (RBC), and DPPH antioxidant test. The resulting preparations were of improved quality in comparison to the control hand cream, with a low skin irritation effect, lower TEWL, and higher antioxidant potential. This work complies with circular economy principles and green technology standards, and represents the efficient model on how to reuse natural resources through waste minimization.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ivanka Ćirić
- Innovative Centre Faculty of Chemistry Belgrade, University of Belgrade, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia; (I.Ć.); (D.D.Z.); (M.S.)
| | - Dragana Dabić Zagorac
- Innovative Centre Faculty of Chemistry Belgrade, University of Belgrade, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia; (I.Ć.); (D.D.Z.); (M.S.)
| | - Milica Sredojević
- Innovative Centre Faculty of Chemistry Belgrade, University of Belgrade, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia; (I.Ć.); (D.D.Z.); (M.S.)
| | - Milica Fotirić Akšić
- Faculty of Agriculture, University of Belgrade, Nemanjina 6, 11080 Belgrade, Serbia; (M.F.A.); (B.R.)
| | - Biljana Rabrenović
- Faculty of Agriculture, University of Belgrade, Nemanjina 6, 11080 Belgrade, Serbia; (M.F.A.); (B.R.)
| | - Stevan Blagojević
- Institute of General and Physical Chemistry, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Maja Natić
- Faculty of Chemistry, University of Belgrade, Studentski Trg 12-16, 11158 Belgrade, Serbia
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2
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Sabotič J, Bayram E, Ezra D, Gaudêncio SP, Haznedaroğlu BZ, Janež N, Ktari L, Luganini A, Mandalakis M, Safarik I, Simes D, Strode E, Toruńska-Sitarz A, Varamogianni-Mamatsi D, Varese GC, Vasquez MI. A guide to the use of bioassays in exploration of natural resources. Biotechnol Adv 2024; 71:108307. [PMID: 38185432 DOI: 10.1016/j.biotechadv.2024.108307] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/24/2023] [Revised: 12/05/2023] [Accepted: 01/01/2024] [Indexed: 01/09/2024]
Abstract
Bioassays are the main tool to decipher bioactivities from natural resources thus their selection and quality are critical for optimal bioprospecting. They are used both in the early stages of compounds isolation/purification/identification, and in later stages to evaluate their safety and efficacy. In this review, we provide a comprehensive overview of the most common bioassays used in the discovery and development of new bioactive compounds with a focus on marine bioresources. We present a comprehensive list of practical considerations for selecting appropriate bioassays and discuss in detail the bioassays typically used to explore antimicrobial, antibiofilm, cytotoxic, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-ageing potential. The concept of quality control and bioassay validation are introduced, followed by safety considerations, which are critical to advancing bioactive compounds to a higher stage of development. We conclude by providing an application-oriented view focused on the development of pharmaceuticals, food supplements, and cosmetics, the industrial pipelines where currently known marine natural products hold most potential. We highlight the importance of gaining reliable bioassay results, as these serve as a starting point for application-based development and further testing, as well as for consideration by regulatory authorities.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jerica Sabotič
- Department of Biotechnology, Jožef Stefan Institute, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia.
| | - Engin Bayram
- Institute of Environmental Sciences, Bogazici University, Bebek, Istanbul 34342, Turkey
| | - David Ezra
- Department of Plant Pathology and Weed Research, ARO, The Volcani Institute, P.O.Box 15159, Rishon LeZion 7528809, Israel
| | - Susana P Gaudêncio
- Associate Laboratory i4HB - Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal; UCIBIO - Applied Biomolecular Sciences Unit, Department of Chemistry, Blue Biotechnology & Biomedicine Lab, NOVA School of Science and Technology, NOVA University of Lisbon, 2819-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Berat Z Haznedaroğlu
- Institute of Environmental Sciences, Bogazici University, Bebek, Istanbul 34342, Turkey
| | - Nika Janež
- Department of Biotechnology, Jožef Stefan Institute, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
| | - Leila Ktari
- B3Aqua Laboratory, National Institute of Marine Sciences and Technologies, Carthage University, Tunis, Tunisia
| | - Anna Luganini
- Department of Life Sciences and Systems Biology, University of Turin, 10123 Turin, Italy
| | - Manolis Mandalakis
- Institute of Marine Biology, Biotechnology and Aquaculture, Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, 71500 Heraklion, Greece
| | - Ivo Safarik
- Department of Nanobiotechnology, Biology Centre, ISBB, CAS, Na Sadkach 7, 370 05 Ceske Budejovice, Czech Republic; Regional Centre of Advanced Technologies and Materials, Czech Advanced Technology and Research Institute, Palacky University, Slechtitelu 27, 783 71 Olomouc, Czech Republic
| | - Dina Simes
- Centre of Marine Sciences (CCMAR), Universidade do Algarve, 8005-139 Faro, Portugal; 2GenoGla Diagnostics, Centre of Marine Sciences (CCMAR), Universidade do Algarve, Faro, Portugal
| | - Evita Strode
- Latvian Institute of Aquatic Ecology, Agency of Daugavpils University, Riga LV-1007, Latvia
| | - Anna Toruńska-Sitarz
- Department of Marine Biology and Biotechnology, Faculty of Oceanography and Geography, University of Gdańsk, 81-378 Gdynia, Poland
| | - Despoina Varamogianni-Mamatsi
- Institute of Marine Biology, Biotechnology and Aquaculture, Hellenic Centre for Marine Research, 71500 Heraklion, Greece
| | | | - Marlen I Vasquez
- Department of Chemical Engineering, Cyprus University of Technology, 3036 Limassol, Cyprus
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3
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Du XN, He Y, Chen YW, Liu Q, Sun L, Sun HM, Wu XF, Lu Y. Decoding Cosmetic Complexities: A Comprehensive Guide to Matrix Composition and Pretreatment Technology. Molecules 2024; 29:411. [PMID: 38257324 PMCID: PMC10818968 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29020411] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/05/2023] [Revised: 01/08/2024] [Accepted: 01/13/2024] [Indexed: 01/24/2024] Open
Abstract
Despite advancements in analytical technologies, the complex nature of cosmetic matrices, coupled with the presence of diverse and trace unauthorized additives, hinders the application of these technologies in cosmetics analysis. This not only impedes effective regulation of cosmetics but also leads to the continual infiltration of illegal products into the market, posing serious health risks to consumers. The establishment of cosmetic regulations is often based on extensive scientific experiments, resulting in a certain degree of latency. Therefore, timely advancement in laboratory research is crucial to ensure the timely update and adaptability of regulations. A comprehensive understanding of the composition of cosmetic matrices and their pretreatment technologies is vital for enhancing the efficiency and accuracy of cosmetic detection. Drawing upon the China National Medical Products Administration's 2021 Cosmetic Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue, we streamline the wide array of cosmetics into four principal categories based on the following compositions: emulsified, liquid, powdered, and wax-based cosmetics. In this review, the characteristics, compositional elements, and physicochemical properties inherent to each category, as well as an extensive overview of the evolution of pretreatment methods for different categories, will be explored. Our objective is to provide a clear and comprehensive guide, equipping researchers with profound insights into the core compositions and pretreatment methods of cosmetics, which will in turn advance cosmetic analysis and improve detection and regulatory approaches in the industry.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | | | - Xian-Fu Wu
- National Institutes for Food and Drug Control, Beijing 102629, China; (X.-N.D.); (Y.H.); (Y.-W.C.); (Q.L.); (L.S.); (H.-M.S.)
| | - Yong Lu
- National Institutes for Food and Drug Control, Beijing 102629, China; (X.-N.D.); (Y.H.); (Y.-W.C.); (Q.L.); (L.S.); (H.-M.S.)
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Kim H, Shin HY, Jeong EJ, Lee HD, Hwang KC, Yu KW, Lee S, Lee S. Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Sargassum macrocarpum Extracts. Antioxidants (Basel) 2022; 11:antiox11122483. [PMID: 36552691 PMCID: PMC9774442 DOI: 10.3390/antiox11122483] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/29/2022] [Revised: 12/08/2022] [Accepted: 12/12/2022] [Indexed: 12/23/2022] Open
Abstract
Oxidative stress and the inflammatory response are known to be the most important pathological factors for aging skin cells. Therefore, substances that protect skin cells from oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions of the skin have potential as functional ingredients for skin care. In the present study, we investigated the potential of Sargassum macrocarpum as an anti-inflammatory candidate for inflammatory skin disease. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities are desirable properties in such functional materials. The total polyphenol content as well as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were evaluated in hot-water (HES) and ethanol (EES) extracts of S. macrocarpum. The polyphenol content was higher in the HES (HES: 115.9 ± 15.3 mg GA/g, EES: 3.9 ± 0.5 mg GA/g), and the HES also had ABTS (HES: IC50 1.0 ± 0.0 mg/mL, EES: IC50 16.09 ± 0.7 mg/mL) and DPPH (HES: IC50 6.50 ± 0.3 mg/mL, EES: IC50 35.3 ± 3.1 mg/mL) radical scavenging capacities as well as FRAP activity (HES: IC50 18.8 ± 0.4 mg/mL, EES: IC50 n.d.). Compared with the EES at the equivalent concentration range (1.25-20 μg/mL), the HES exerted a more potent inhibitory activity on LPS-stimulated nitric oxide (10.3-43.1%), IL-6 (15.7-45.0%), and TNF-α (14.1-20.8%) in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells in addition to TNF-α and IFN-γ-facilitated IL-6 (10.9-84.1%) and IL-8 (7.7-73.2%) in HaCaT keratinocytes. These results suggested that water-soluble materials might be deeply involved in the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in S. macrocarpum. General composition analysis indicated that the HES contains more carbohydrates and polyphenols than the EES, and the monosaccharide composition analysis suggested that fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharide and β-glucan might be potent anti-inflammatory candidates in the HES. The present study presents important preliminary results and a valuable strategy for developing novel anti-skin dermatitis candidates using a hot-water extract of S. macrocarpum.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hoon Kim
- Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Chung-Ang University, Anseong 17546, Republic of Korea
| | - Hyun Young Shin
- Department of Integrated Biomedical and Life Science, Korea University, Seoul 02841, Republic of Korea
| | - Eun-Jin Jeong
- Department of Integrated Biomedical and Life Science, Korea University, Seoul 02841, Republic of Korea
- Department of Food and Nutrition, Korea National University of Transportation, Jeungpyeong 27909, Republic of Korea
| | - Hak-Dong Lee
- Department of Plant Science and Technology, Chung-Ang University, Anseong 17546, Republic of Korea
| | - Ki Cheol Hwang
- Venture Research Center, Rafarophe Co., Cheongju 28164, Republic of Korea
| | - Kwang-Won Yu
- Department of Food and Nutrition, Korea National University of Transportation, Jeungpyeong 27909, Republic of Korea
| | - Sullim Lee
- Department of Life Science, Gachon University, Seongnam 13120, Republic of Korea
- Correspondence: (S.L.); (S.L.)
| | - Sanghyun Lee
- Department of Plant Science and Technology, Chung-Ang University, Anseong 17546, Republic of Korea
- Natural Product Institute of Science and Technology, Anseong 17546, Republic of Korea
- Correspondence: (S.L.); (S.L.)
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Martić R, Kotur-Stevuljević J, Malenović A, Ušjak L, Petrović S, Čalija B, Milić J, Krajišnik D. Fast Inverted Photoprotective o/w Emulsions Loaded With Dihydroquercetin and β-Carotene: An Innovative Approach to In Vitro Assessment of Antioxidant Activity in a Bioenvironment. Nat Prod Commun 2022. [DOI: 10.1177/1934578x221112811] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/15/2022] Open
Abstract
Fast inverted, oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions, also known as SWitch-Oil-Phase (SWOP) emulsions, express the performances of both o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions during application to the skin, favoring their use as cosmetic carriers in sunscreen products. The objective of this study was to investigate the antioxidant potential (by 2 different methods) and the ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability of SWOP emulsion (S) with incorporated plant-based antioxidants dihydroquercetin (DHQ) and β-carotene (βC), using quercetin (Q) in a reference emulsion, in addition to the evaluation of their physicochemical properties and stability. A new biochemical extracellular model for in vitro assessment of antioxidative properties for the SWOP emulsions (S, SQ, SDHQ, and SDHQβC) was developed and compared with the results of 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. The analyses were performed at 20 °C and 37 °C, and oxidative stress parameters were monitored and statistically analyzed. The sun protection factor (SPF) of the samples was determined in vitro. Q and DHQ incorporated into the SWOP emulsion exhibited a strong DPPH radical scavenging ability. Neither incorporated nor pure βC showed DPPH radical scavenging ability at the tested concentrations. Contrary to that, in the bioenvironment conditions, SDHQβC showed minor antioxidative effects increase and also a significant decrease in exogenous pro-oxidative effects, caused by pro-oxidant, when compared to SDHQ. The obtained SPFs of SDHQβC, SDHQ, and SQ were 5.19, 4.65, and 3.35, respectively. The physicochemical stability of the emulsions was satisfactory during 1 month storage. The presented results demonstrated that the SWOP emulsion is a suitable carrier for antioxidants with a photoprotective ability. The novel biochemical approach could be used in addition to DPPH assay with several advantages, relevant for the testing of antioxidant activity of potential active ingredients in cosmetic products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Radava Martić
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Jelena Kotur-Stevuljević
- Department of Medical Biochemistry, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Anđelija Malenović
- Department of Drug Analysis, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Ljuboš Ušjak
- Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Silvana Petrović
- Department of Pharmacognosy, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Bojan Čalija
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Jela Milić
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
| | - Danina Krajišnik
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, University of Belgrade – Faculty of Pharmacy, Belgrade, Serbia
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Guo Q, Liang S, Ge C, Xiao Z. Research progress on extraction technology and biological activity of polysaccharides from Edible Fungi: A review. FOOD REVIEWS INTERNATIONAL 2022. [DOI: 10.1080/87559129.2022.2039182] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/11/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Qi Guo
- Livestock Product Processing and Engineering Technology Research Center of Yunnan Province, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
- College of Food Science and Technology, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
| | - Shuangmin Liang
- Livestock Product Processing and Engineering Technology Research Center of Yunnan Province, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
- College of Food Science and Technology, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
| | - Changrong Ge
- Livestock Product Processing and Engineering Technology Research Center of Yunnan Province, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
| | - Zhichao Xiao
- Livestock Product Processing and Engineering Technology Research Center of Yunnan Province, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
- College of Food Science and Technology, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
- Animal Science and Technology, Yunnan Agricultural University, Kunming, China
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Heath RS, Ruscoe RE, Turner NJ. The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics. Nat Prod Rep 2021; 39:335-388. [PMID: 34879125 DOI: 10.1039/d1np00027f] [Citation(s) in RCA: 23] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/15/2022]
Abstract
Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.
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Affiliation(s)
- Rachel S Heath
- Manchester Institute of Biotechnology, Department of Chemistry, University of Manchester, 131 Princess Street, Manchester, M1 7DN, UK.
| | - Rebecca E Ruscoe
- Manchester Institute of Biotechnology, Department of Chemistry, University of Manchester, 131 Princess Street, Manchester, M1 7DN, UK.
| | - Nicholas J Turner
- Manchester Institute of Biotechnology, Department of Chemistry, University of Manchester, 131 Princess Street, Manchester, M1 7DN, UK.
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8
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Insights into health-promoting effects of Jew's ear (Auricularia auricula-judae). Trends Food Sci Technol 2021. [DOI: 10.1016/j.tifs.2021.06.017] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/27/2022]
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Dini I, Laneri S. The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations. Molecules 2021; 26:molecules26133921. [PMID: 34206931 PMCID: PMC8271805 DOI: 10.3390/molecules26133921] [Citation(s) in RCA: 52] [Impact Index Per Article: 13.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/25/2021] [Revised: 06/21/2021] [Accepted: 06/25/2021] [Indexed: 01/18/2023] Open
Abstract
Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.
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Oh JJ, Kim JY, Son SH, Jung WJ, Kim DH, Seo JW, Kim GH. Fungal melanin as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity. RSC Adv 2021; 11:19682-19689. [PMID: 35479243 PMCID: PMC9033651 DOI: 10.1039/d1ra02583j] [Citation(s) in RCA: 22] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/01/2021] [Accepted: 05/23/2021] [Indexed: 11/21/2022] Open
Abstract
Melanin is considered a bio-inspired dermo-cosmetic component due to its high UV absorption and antioxidant activity. Among various melanin sources, fungal melanin is a promising candidate for sunscreen because of its sustainability and scalability; however, quantitative assessment of its function has not yet been sufficiently explored. In this study, melanin samples derived from Amorphotheca resinae were prepared, followed by the evaluation of their sunscreen performance, antioxidant activity, and cytotoxicity. Melanin-blended cream was prepared by blending a melanin suspension and a pure cream. The cream showed an in vitro sun protection factor value of 2.5 when the pigment content was 5%. The cream showed a critical wavelength of approximately 388 nm and a UVA/UVB ratio of more than 0.81, satisfying the broad-spectrum sunscreen requirement. Oxygen radical absorbance capacity assays indicated that fungal melanin had antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid but higher than reduced glutathione. Fungal melanin had no statistically significant cytotoxicity to human keratinocyte cell lines until 72 h of exposure, even at a concentration of 4 mg mL-1. Consequently, melanin pigment can be used as a biocompatible broad-spectrum sunscreen with high antioxidant activity and as a practical alternative in dermo-cosmetic formulations.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jeong-Joo Oh
- Division of Environmental Science & Ecological Engineering, College of Life Sciences & Biotechnology, Korea University 145, Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu Seoul 02841 Korea +82 2 3290 9753 +82 2 3290 3014
| | - Jee Young Kim
- Division of Environmental Science & Ecological Engineering, College of Life Sciences & Biotechnology, Korea University 145, Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu Seoul 02841 Korea +82 2 3290 9753 +82 2 3290 3014
| | - Seung Han Son
- Department of Life Science and Research Institute for Natural Sciences, Hanyang University Seoul 04763 Korea
| | - Won-Jo Jung
- Department of Advanced Materials Chemistry, Korea University Sejong 30019 Korea
| | - Da Hee Kim
- Division of Environmental Science & Ecological Engineering, College of Life Sciences & Biotechnology, Korea University 145, Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu Seoul 02841 Korea +82 2 3290 9753 +82 2 3290 3014
| | - Jin-Woo Seo
- Division of Environmental Science & Ecological Engineering, College of Life Sciences & Biotechnology, Korea University 145, Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu Seoul 02841 Korea +82 2 3290 9753 +82 2 3290 3014
| | - Gyu-Hyeok Kim
- Division of Environmental Science & Ecological Engineering, College of Life Sciences & Biotechnology, Korea University 145, Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu Seoul 02841 Korea +82 2 3290 9753 +82 2 3290 3014
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Bajgai J, Lee KJ, Rahman MH, Fadriquela A, Kim CS. Role of Molecular Hydrogen in Skin Diseases and its Impact in Beauty. Curr Pharm Des 2021; 27:737-746. [PMID: 32981497 DOI: 10.2174/1381612826666200925124235] [Citation(s) in RCA: 5] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/17/2020] [Accepted: 08/16/2020] [Indexed: 11/22/2022]
Abstract
In today's society, healthy skin and a beautiful appearance are considered the foundation of general well-being. The skin is the largest organ of the body and plays an important role in protecting it against various hazards such as environmental, physical, chemical, and biological hazards. These factors include mediators that lead to oxidation reactions that produce reactive oxygen/nitrogen species and additional oxidants in the skin cells. An increase in oxidants beyond the antioxidant capacity of its defense system causes oxidative stress and chronic inflammation in the body. This response can cause further disruption of collagen fibers and hinder the functioning of skin cells that may result in the development of various skin diseases including psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and aging. In this review, we summarized the present information related to the role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of dermatological disorders, and its impact on physical beauty and the daily lives of patients. We also discussed how molecular hydrogen exhibits a therapeutic effect against skin diseases via its effects on oxidative stress. Furthermore, findings from this summary review indicate that molecular hydrogen might be an effective treatment modality for the prevention and treatment of skin-related illnesses.
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Affiliation(s)
- Johny Bajgai
- Department of Environmental Medical Biology, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, Gangwon-do26426, Korea
| | - Kyu-Jae Lee
- Department of Environmental Medical Biology, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, Gangwon-do26426, Korea
| | - Md Habibur Rahman
- Department of Environmental Medical Biology, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, Gangwon-do26426, Korea
| | - Ailyn Fadriquela
- Department of Environmental Medical Biology, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, Gangwon-do26426, Korea
| | - Cheol-Su Kim
- Department of Environmental Medical Biology, Yonsei University Wonju College of Medicine, Wonju, Gangwon-do26426, Korea
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Ong TS, Chu CC, Tan CP, Nyam KL. Preparation and Evaluation Pumpkin Seed Oil-based Vitamin E Cream Formulations for Topical Application. J Oleo Sci 2020; 69:297-306. [PMID: 32249259 DOI: 10.5650/jos.ess19250] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/13/2022] Open
Abstract
Plant seed oil is often incorporated into the cream emulsions to provide multifunctional effects on the skin. In the current study, pumpkin seed oil (PSO) was used to develop a stable oil-in-water emulsion. The study aimed to optimise PSO cream formulation and determine the synergistic effect of the PSO with vitamin E oil added. The physical properties, antioxidant activities and storage stability of the formulations were analysed. Besides, the synergistic effect of the best formulation was analysed based on α-tocopherol content using ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC). The storage stability test was assessed upon storing at 25 ± 2°C and 40 ± 2°C for 12 weeks. The best formulation (20% PSO, vitamin E oil and beeswax) selected showed physically and microbiologically stable. The incorporation of vitamin E oil into the formulation produced with PSO was found to be compatible, as it showed a synergistic effect in the amount of α-tocopherol content (combination index (CI) = 0.98). Thus, PSO had shown its potency to be incorporated into the topical products with a promising potential in delivering additional properties that can nourish the skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Teik Siun Ong
- Department of Food Science with Nutrition, Faculty of Applied Sciences, UCSI University
| | - Chee Chin Chu
- Department of Food Science with Nutrition, Faculty of Applied Sciences, UCSI University
| | - Chin Ping Tan
- Department of Food Technology, Faculty of Food Science and Technology, Universiti Putra Malaysia
| | - Kar Lin Nyam
- Department of Food Science with Nutrition, Faculty of Applied Sciences, UCSI University
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Carboué Q, Maresca M, Herbette G, Roussos S, Hamrouni R, Bombarda I. Naphtho-Gamma-Pyrones Produced by Aspergillus tubingensis G131: New Source of Natural Nontoxic Antioxidants. Biomolecules 2019; 10:biom10010029. [PMID: 31878243 PMCID: PMC7023098 DOI: 10.3390/biom10010029] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/04/2019] [Revised: 12/20/2019] [Accepted: 12/20/2019] [Indexed: 12/19/2022] Open
Abstract
Seven naphtho-gamma-pyrones (NγPs), including asperpyrone E, aurasperone A, dianhydroaurasperone C, fonsecin, fonsecinone A, fonsecin B, and ustilaginoidin A, were isolated from Aspergillus tubingensis G131, a non-toxigenic strain. The radical scavenging activity of these NγPs was evaluated using ABTS assay. The Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity on the seven isolated NγPs ranged from 2.4 to 14.6 μmol L-1. The toxicity and ability of the NγPs to prevent H2O2-mediated cell death were evaluated using normal/not cancerous cells (CHO cells). This cell-based assay showed that NγPs: (1) Are not toxic or weakly toxic towards cells and (2) are able to protect cells from oxidant injuries with an IC50 on H2O2-mediated cell death ranging from 2.25 to 1800 μmol mL-1. Our data show that A. tubingensis G131 strain is able to produce various NγPs possessing strong antioxidant activities and low toxicities, making this strain a good candidate for antioxidant applications in food and cosmetic industries.
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Affiliation(s)
- Quentin Carboué
- Vinovalie, ZA les portes du Tarn, 81370 Saint-Sulpice-la-Pointe, France
- Aix Marseille Univ, Avignon Université, CNRS, IRD, IMBE, 13397 Marseille, France; (S.R.); (R.H.)
- Correspondence: (Q.C.); (M.M.); (I.B.); Tel.: +33-491-28-8254 (M.M.)
| | - Marc Maresca
- Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, iSm2, 13397 Marseille, France
- Correspondence: (Q.C.); (M.M.); (I.B.); Tel.: +33-491-28-8254 (M.M.)
| | - Gaëtan Herbette
- Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, FSCM, Spectropole, 13397 Marseille, France;
| | - Sevastianos Roussos
- Aix Marseille Univ, Avignon Université, CNRS, IRD, IMBE, 13397 Marseille, France; (S.R.); (R.H.)
| | - Rayhane Hamrouni
- Aix Marseille Univ, Avignon Université, CNRS, IRD, IMBE, 13397 Marseille, France; (S.R.); (R.H.)
| | - Isabelle Bombarda
- Aix Marseille Univ, Avignon Université, CNRS, IRD, IMBE, 13397 Marseille, France; (S.R.); (R.H.)
- Correspondence: (Q.C.); (M.M.); (I.B.); Tel.: +33-491-28-8254 (M.M.)
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Ribet V, Nobile V, Rossi AB. In situ antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product: A randomized controlled clinical study. Exp Dermatol 2019; 28:1219-1226. [PMID: 31309627 PMCID: PMC6973136 DOI: 10.1111/exd.14005] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/26/2018] [Revised: 06/13/2019] [Accepted: 07/02/2019] [Indexed: 12/31/2022]
Abstract
Ultraviolet light enhances the generation of reactive oxygen species that are responsible for skin photoageing. The aim of this randomized, vehicle- and active-controlled double-blind, intra-individual monocentric study was to evaluate in situ the antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product in photoaged skin. Twenty healthy volunteers had defined skin areas randomized to receive a topical product containing 3 antioxidants (pre-tocopheryl® , retinaldehyde and glycylglycine ole-amide), its vehicle and a positive antioxidant control cream. The products were applied daily for 30-day period. The skin areas were exposed to a controlled dose of UVA rays, and the skin oxidative status was evaluated 4 and 24 hours post-UVA exposure at D0 (basal value) and after 15 and 30 days of product application. Skin layers were collected by stripping, and antioxidant capacity was measured using the ferric reducing ability of a plasma assay. Lipid peroxidation (LPO) was assessed using the malonyldialdehyde test. The tested product significantly improved the skin antioxidant capacity after 15 and 30 days and significantly decreased the basal level of the skin LPO. The skin LPO level significantly decreased 4 and 24 hours after UVA exposure at 15 and 30 days. These findings were comparable to positive control treated sites and were significantly different from the vehicle and untreated sites. This minimally invasive methodology enabled a quantitative evaluation of potent antioxidant activity in situ in the stratum corneum reflecting real-life skin conditions and confirming the benefits of the topical application of a product containing 3 antioxidants in the prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage.
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Affiliation(s)
- Virginie Ribet
- Clinical Skin Research CenterPierre Fabre Dermo‐CosmeticsToulouseFrance
| | | | - Ana Beatris Rossi
- Clinical Skin Research CenterPierre Fabre Dermo‐CosmeticsToulouseFrance
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15
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de Lima Cherubim DJ, Buzanello Martins CV, Oliveira Fariña L, da Silva de Lucca RA. Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications. J Cosmet Dermatol 2019; 19:33-37. [PMID: 31389656 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13093] [Citation(s) in RCA: 128] [Impact Index Per Article: 21.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/03/2019] [Accepted: 07/12/2019] [Indexed: 12/16/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Currently, there is a great interest in cosmetics prepared on natural resources bases and this may restrict the use of synthetic substances. Plants play a relevant role as a source of biologically active natural products with cosmetic and dermatological importance. According to this context, polyphenolic extracts are highlighted because they have proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and supporting activity in solar photoprotection. AIMS The purpose this study were reviewed at reporting the antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds, mainly applied to dermatological therapy, and highlighting the action mechanisms and structure-activity relationship. METHODOLOGY In September 2017, we performed a literature search in PubMed and Scielo for scientific researches, antioxidant studies, and systemic reviews. The search terms we used were "PHYTOCOSMETICS" AND "ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY" OR "PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS" (from 2000). As inclusion criteria were used relevant original articles, scientific research in the area of interest, and crucial reference articles. Exclusion criteria were: duplicate publications, non-relevant articles and not published in English. RESULTS The potential cosmetic application of phenolic compounds as natural antioxidants has been attributed to the chemical structure of these compounds, which to interfere in different phases of the oxidation mechanism. CONCLUSION The use of phenolic extracts emerges as a viable alternative for cosmetic application, ensuring a commitment to sustainability. However, it is of crucial importance to evaluate the toxicity risks of raw materials and finished products.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | - Luciana Oliveira Fariña
- Medical and Pharmaceutical Sciences Center, Western Paraná State University, Cascavel, Brazil
| | - Rosemeire Aparecida da Silva de Lucca
- Medical and Pharmaceutical Sciences Center, Western Paraná State University, Cascavel, Brazil.,Engineering and Exact Sciences Center, Western Paraná State University, Toledo, Brasil
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16
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Polonini HC, Ferreira AO, Brandão MAF, Raposo NRB. Topical monomethylsilanetriol can deliver silicon to the viable skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 2019; 41:405-409. [PMID: 31230363 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12552] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/26/2019] [Accepted: 06/17/2019] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Organic silicon has been linked to positive effects on the skin rejuvenation, mainly by the oral route. Thus, the main objective of the present study was to assess whether monomethylsilanetriol (MMST, a source of organic silicon) can deliver silicon to the epidermis and dermis, when applied topically in a cream. Once the hypothesis was confirmed, the present study also evaluated whether the product was toxic to keratinocytes; additionally, its possible antioxidant activity was assessed. METHODS The ex vivo skin permeation profile was determined using human skin in Franz-cells equipment; cytotoxicity was assessed using HaCaT keratinocytes. Antioxidant capacity was determined as scavenging activity, measured according to the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazil free radical method. RESULTS The permeation percentage was almost 60% of the applied MMST, with a large quantity of drug found in the viable epidermis and dermis. The cell viability assay showed no significant difference in the percentage of viable keratinocytes among the treated groups at the doses used. In terms of antioxidant activity, the IC50 value obtained was 2400 μg mL-1 . Low antioxidant activity, negligible toxicity for keratinocytes and a significant percentage of permeation were observed. CONCLUSION We provide evidence that MMST applied topically can deliver silicon to the skin in biorelevant levels for cosmetic purposes.
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Affiliation(s)
- H C Polonini
- BF-Fox Technologies, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Ortofarma Laboratory, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Faculdade de Ciências Médicas e da Saúde de Juiz de Fora (Suprema), 36033-003, Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais, Brazil
| | - A O Ferreira
- BF-Fox Technologies, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Ortofarma Laboratory, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS), Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF), 36036-900, Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais, Brazil
| | - M A F Brandão
- BF-Fox Technologies, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS), Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF), 36036-900, Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais, Brazil
| | - N R B Raposo
- BF-Fox Technologies, 36120-000, Matias Barbosa, Minas Gerais, Brazil.,Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS), Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora (UFJF), 36036-900, Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais, Brazil
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17
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Otukile KP, Kabanda MM. A DFT mechanistic and kinetic study on the reaction of phloroglucinol with •OH in different media: Hydrogen atom transfer versus oxidation. JOURNAL OF THEORETICAL & COMPUTATIONAL CHEMISTRY 2019. [DOI: 10.1142/s0219633619500172] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/18/2022]
Abstract
A theoretical study on the reaction of phloroglucinol with •OH has been performed with the aim of elucidating the geometric, energetic and kinetic properties of the reaction as well as identifying the preferred reaction pathway. Three reaction mechanisms have been considered, namely, direct hydrogen atom abstraction, addition–elimination mechanism in the absence and in the presence of a base catalyst and oxidation mechanism in the absence and in the presence of O2. The study has been performed using the DFT/M06[Formula: see text]2X, DFT/BHHLYP and DFT/MPW1K methods in conjunction with either the 6-31++G(d,p) or the 6-311++G(3df,2p) basis set. The energetic parameters are influenced by the type of function utilized and the media in which the calculation is done. The direct hydrogen abstraction mechanism provides the smallest branching ratio with respect to the •OH addition mechanisms. The PG + •OH reaction under atmospheric conditions saturated with O2 would predominantly form tetrahydroxybenzene; the predominant product within the biological system would largely depend on physiological conditions; under pH [Formula: see text] 7 and with oxygen dissolved within the biological system, the preferred product would be tetrahydroxybenzene; however, if the reaction takes place in some part of the biological system where the pH [Formula: see text] 7, the preferred product would be the phenoxyl radical.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kgalaletso P. Otukile
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Natural and Agriculture Sciences, North–West University, Private Bag X2046, Mmabatho 2735, South Africa
- Material Science Innovation and Modelling (MaSIM) Research Focus Area, Faculty of Natural and Agriculture Sciences, North–West University, Private Bag X 2046, Mmabatho 2735, South Africa
| | - Mwadham M. Kabanda
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Natural and Agriculture Sciences, North–West University, Private Bag X2046, Mmabatho 2735, South Africa
- Material Science Innovation and Modelling (MaSIM) Research Focus Area, Faculty of Natural and Agriculture Sciences, North–West University, Private Bag X 2046, Mmabatho 2735, South Africa
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18
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Velasco MVR, Sauce R, Oliveira CAD, Pinto CADO, Martinez RM, Baah S, Almeida TS, Rosado C, Baby AR. Active ingredients, mechanisms of action and efficacy tests of antipollution cosmetic and personal care products. BRAZ J PHARM SCI 2018. [DOI: 10.1590/s2175-97902018000001003] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/17/2023] Open
Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | | | - Tânia Santos Almeida
- Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Portugal
| | - Catarina Rosado
- Universidade Lusófona’s Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Portugal
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19
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Drouet S, Doussot J, Garros L, Mathiron D, Bassard S, Favre-Réguillon A, Molinié R, Lainé É, Hano C. Selective Synthesis of 3- O-Palmitoyl-Silybin, a New-to-Nature Flavonolignan with Increased Protective Action against Oxidative Damages in Lipophilic Media. Molecules 2018; 23:molecules23102594. [PMID: 30309022 PMCID: PMC6222644 DOI: 10.3390/molecules23102594] [Citation(s) in RCA: 16] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/03/2018] [Revised: 09/22/2018] [Accepted: 10/09/2018] [Indexed: 12/11/2022] Open
Abstract
A selective acylation protocol using cerium chloride (CeCl3) as catalyst was applied to functionalize silybinin (1), a natural antioxidant flavonolignan from milk thistle fruit, in order to increase its solubility in lipophilic media while retaining its strong antioxidant activity. The selective esterification of 1 at the position 3-OH with a palmitate acyl chain leading to the formation of the 3-O-palmitoyl-silybin (2) was confirmed by both mass spectroscopy (MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) analyses. The antioxidant activity of 1 was at least retained and even increased with the CUPRAC assay designed to estimate the antioxidant activity of both hydrophilic and lipophilic compounds. Finally, the 3-O-palmitoylation of 1, resulting in the formation of 2, also increased its anti-lipoperoxidant activity (i.e., inhibition of conjugated diene production) in two different lipophilic media (bulk oil and o/w emulsion) subjected to accelerated storage test.
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Affiliation(s)
- Samantha Drouet
- Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans, France.
- Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS/Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
| | - Joël Doussot
- Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans, France.
- Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS/Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
- Département Chimie Vivant Santé (EPN 7), Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, 75141 Paris CEDEX 03, France.
| | - Laurine Garros
- Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans, France.
- Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS/Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
- Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique, ICOA UMR7311, Université d'Orléans-CNRS, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
| | - David Mathiron
- Plateforme Analytique, Institut de Chimie de Picardie FR 3085 CNRS, Université de Picardie Jules Verne, 33 rue St Leu, 80039 Amiens, France.
| | - Solène Bassard
- BIOPI EA3900, Biologie des Plantes et Innovation, Université de Picardie Jules Verne, 80037 Amiens, France.
| | - Alain Favre-Réguillon
- Département Chimie Vivant Santé (EPN 7), Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, 75141 Paris CEDEX 03, France.
- Laboratoire de Génie des Procédés Catalytiques (UMR 5285), Université de Lyon, CPE Lyon, 43 boulevard du 11 Novembre 1918, 69100 Villeurbanne, France.
| | - Roland Molinié
- BIOPI EA3900, Biologie des Plantes et Innovation, Université de Picardie Jules Verne, 80037 Amiens, France.
| | - Éric Lainé
- Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans, France.
- Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS/Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
| | - Christophe Hano
- Laboratoire de Biologie des Ligneux et des Grandes Cultures, INRA USC1328, Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans, France.
- Bioactifs et Cosmétiques, GDR 3711 COSMACTIFS, CNRS/Université d'Orléans, 45067 Orléans CÉDEX 2, France.
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20
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Single Laboratory Validation of a Quantitative Core Shell-Based LC Separation for the Evaluation of Silymarin Variability and Associated Antioxidant Activity of Pakistani Ecotypes of Milk Thistle (Silybum Marianum L.). Molecules 2018. [PMCID: PMC6017045 DOI: 10.3390/molecules23040904] [Citation(s) in RCA: 32] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/06/2023] Open
Abstract
Fruits of Silybum marianum (L.) Gaernt are the main source of taxifolin derived flavonolignans. Together, these molecules constitute a mixture called silymarin with many useful applications for cosmetic and pharmaceutic industries. Here, a validated method for the separation of the silymarin constituents has been developed to ensure precision and accuracy in their quantification. Each compound was separated with a high reproducibility. Precision and repeatability of the quantification method were validated according to the AOAC recommendations. The method was then applied to study the natural variability of wild accessions of S. marianum. Analysis of the variation in the fruits composition of these 12 accessions from Pakistan evidenced a huge natural diversity. Correlation analysis suggested a synergistic action of the different flavonolignans to reach the maximal antioxidant activity, as determined by cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC) and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assays. Principal component analysis (PCA) separated the 12 accessions into three distinct groups that were differing from their silymarin contents, whereas hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA) evidenced strong variations in their silymarin composition, leading to the identification of new silybin-rich chemotypes. These results proved that the present method allows for an efficient separation and quantification of the main flavonolignans with potent antioxidant activities.
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21
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Kesente M, Kavetsou E, Roussaki M, Blidi S, Loupassaki S, Chanioti S, Siamandoura P, Stamatogianni C, Philippou E, Papaspyrides C, Vouyiouka S, Detsi A. Encapsulation of Olive Leaves Extracts in Biodegradable PLA Nanoparticles for Use in Cosmetic Formulation. Bioengineering (Basel) 2017; 4:bioengineering4030075. [PMID: 28952554 PMCID: PMC5615321 DOI: 10.3390/bioengineering4030075] [Citation(s) in RCA: 27] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/11/2017] [Revised: 09/06/2017] [Accepted: 09/07/2017] [Indexed: 11/25/2022] Open
Abstract
The aim of the current work was to encapsulate olive leaves extract in biodegradable poly(lactic acid) nanoparticles, characterize the nanoparticles and define the experimental parameters that affect the encapsulation procedure. Moreover, the loaded nanoparticles were incorporated in a cosmetic formulation and the stability of the formulation was studied for a three-month period of study. Poly(lactic acid) nanoparticles were prepared by the nanoprecipitation method. Characterization of the nanoparticles was performed using a variety of techniques: size, polydispersity index and ζ-potential were measured by Dynamic Light Scattering; morphology was studied using Scanning Electron Microscopy; thermal properties were investigated using Differential Scanning Calorimetry; whereas FT-IR spectroscopy provided a better insight on the encapsulation of the extract. Encapsulation Efficiency was determined indirectly, using UV-Vis spectroscopy. The loaded nanoparticles exhibited anionic ζ-potential, a mean particle size of 246.3 ± 5.3 nm (Pdi: 0.21 ± 0.01) and equal to 49.2%, while olive leaves extract release from the nanoparticles was found to present a burst effect at the first 2 hours. Furthermore, the stability studies of the loaded nanoparticles’ cosmetic formulation showed increased stability compared to the pure extract, in respect to viscosity, pH, organoleptic characteristics, emulsions phases and grid.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maritina Kesente
- Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Eleni Kavetsou
- Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Marina Roussaki
- Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Slim Blidi
- Department of Food Quality and Chemistry of Natural Products, Mediterranean Agronomic Institute of Chania (Centre International de Hautes Etudes Agronomiques Mediterraneennes), 73100 Chania, Crete, Greece.
| | - Sofia Loupassaki
- Department of Food Quality and Chemistry of Natural Products, Mediterranean Agronomic Institute of Chania (Centre International de Hautes Etudes Agronomiques Mediterraneennes), 73100 Chania, Crete, Greece.
| | - Sofia Chanioti
- Laboratory of Food Chemistry and Technology, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Paraskevi Siamandoura
- Laboratory of Food Chemistry and Technology, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | | | | | - Constantine Papaspyrides
- Laboratory of Polymer Technology, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Stamatina Vouyiouka
- Laboratory of Polymer Technology, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
| | - Anastasia Detsi
- Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Zografou Campus, 15780 Athens, Greece.
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22
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Bourgeois C, Leclerc ÉA, Corbin C, Doussot J, Serrano V, Vanier JR, Seigneuret JM, Auguin D, Pichon C, Lainé É, Hano C. Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications. CR CHIM 2016. [DOI: 10.1016/j.crci.2016.03.019] [Citation(s) in RCA: 25] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/21/2023]
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23
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Evaluation of antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of enzymatically hydrolysed Cucurbita pepo and Linum usitatissimum seedcakes. Food Sci Biotechnol 2015. [DOI: 10.1007/s10068-015-0233-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 10/23/2022] Open
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24
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Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K, Majewski S. In vivo and ex vivo evaluation of cosmetic properties of seedcakes. J COSMET LASER THER 2014; 17:109-15. [PMID: 25415370 DOI: 10.3109/14764172.2014.988726] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/08/2023]
Abstract
The seedcakes are a potential source of natural bioactive substances: antioxidants, protein, and carbohydrates. Thus, they may scavenge free radicals and have an effect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. The aim of the study was to evaluate the in vivo and ex vivo properties of emulsions with the seedcake extracts using the pH meter, corneometer, tewameter, methyl nicotinate model of micro-inflammation in human skin, and tape stripping of the stratum corneum. The in vivo and ex vivo studies showed that the emulsions with Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis, and Nigella sativa seedcake extracts have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. The 6-week topical application of the emulsions with the B. officinalis and N. sativa seedcakes significantly reduced skin irritation and influenced the improvement of the skin hydration and epidermal barrier function compared with placebo. The seedcakes due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities have potential application in anti-aging, moisturizing, mitigating, and protective cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anna Ratz-Łyko
- Department of Cosmetology, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care , Warsaw , Poland
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25
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Evaluation of antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis, and Nigella sativa seedcake extracts. Food Sci Biotechnol 2014. [DOI: 10.1007/s10068-014-0140-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022] Open
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26
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Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Herman A, Pytkowska K, Majewski S. The effect of enzymatic hydrolysis on the biological properties ofOenothera biennis,Borago officinalisandNigella sativaseedcake by-products from oil pressing. Int J Food Sci Technol 2014. [DOI: 10.1111/ijfs.12475] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.6] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Anna Ratz-Łyko
- Department of Cosmetics Chemistry; Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care; Podwale 13 00-252 Warsaw Poland
| | - Jacek Arct
- Department of Cosmetics Chemistry; Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care; Podwale 13 00-252 Warsaw Poland
| | - Anna Herman
- Department of Cosmetics Chemistry; Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care; Podwale 13 00-252 Warsaw Poland
| | - Katarzyna Pytkowska
- Department of Cosmetics Chemistry; Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care; Podwale 13 00-252 Warsaw Poland
| | - Sławomir Majewski
- Department of Dermatology and Venereology; Medical University of Warsaw; Koszykowa 82 A 02-008 Warsaw Poland
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27
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Polonini HC, Brandão MAF, Raposo NRB. A natural broad-spectrum sunscreen formulated from the dried extract of Brazilian Lippia sericea as a single UV filter. RSC Adv 2014. [DOI: 10.1039/c4ra11577e] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/21/2022] Open
Abstract
The photoprotective activity of someLippiaspecies is described for the first time, in terms of UVA and UVB protection.
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Affiliation(s)
- H. C. Polonini
- Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS)
- Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora
- Campus Universitário
- Juiz de Fora, Brazil
- Chemical and Food Engineering Department
| | - M. A. F. Brandão
- Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS)
- Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora
- Campus Universitário
- Juiz de Fora, Brazil
| | - N. R. B. Raposo
- Núcleo de Pesquisa e Inovação em Ciências da Saúde (NUPICS)
- Universidade Federal de Juiz de Fora
- Campus Universitário
- Juiz de Fora, Brazil
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28
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Huang JQ, Hu CC, Chiu TC. Determination of seven preservatives in cosmetic products by micellar electrokinetic chromatography. Int J Cosmet Sci 2013; 35:346-53. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12040] [Citation(s) in RCA: 22] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/10/2012] [Accepted: 01/15/2013] [Indexed: 12/25/2022]
Affiliation(s)
- Jun-Qiang Huang
- Department of Applied Science; National Taitung University; Taitung Taiwan
| | - Cho-Chun Hu
- Department of Applied Science; National Taitung University; Taitung Taiwan
| | - Tai-Chia Chiu
- Department of Applied Science; National Taitung University; Taitung Taiwan
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29
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Abstract
It is estimated that total sun exposure occurs non-intentionally in three quarters of our lifetimes. Our skin is exposed to majority of UV radiation during outdoor activities, e.g. walking, practicing sports, running, hiking, etc. and not when we are intentionally exposed to the sun on the beach. We rarely use sunscreens during those activities, or at least not as much and as regular as we should and are commonly prone to acute and chronic sun damage of the skin. The only protection of our skin is endogenous (synthesis of melanin and enzymatic antioxidants) and exogenous (antioxidants, which we consume from the food, like vitamins A, C, E, etc.). UV-induced photoaging of the skin becomes clinically evident with age, when endogenous antioxidative mechanisms and repair processes are not effective any more and actinic damage to the skin prevails. At this point it would be reasonable to ingest additional antioxidants and/or to apply them on the skin in topical preparations. We review endogenous and exogenous skin protection with antioxidants.
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Affiliation(s)
- Borut Poljsak
- University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Health Studies, Zdravstvena pot 5, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia
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30
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Kusumawati I, Indrayanto G. Natural Antioxidants in Cosmetics. STUDIES IN NATURAL PRODUCTS CHEMISTRY 2013. [DOI: 10.1016/b978-0-444-59603-1.00015-1] [Citation(s) in RCA: 61] [Impact Index Per Article: 5.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/03/2022]
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