Natural products as photoprotection

Radical scavenging effect of skin delivery systems using Korean red ginseng extract and assessment of their biocompatibility with human primary dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes

Korean red ginseng (KRG) extract is proposed for cosmetic use, but no data on biological effects of KRG-loaded vehicles exist. The study aimed to optimize new multi- and monophase vehicles for KRG extract delivery, assess their biocompatibility and evaluate their radical scavenging effect in vitro. Storage stability of oil-in-water nanoemulsions (NEs) and hydroalcoholic gels (2 % w/w KRG) was assessed over twelve weeks using dynamic light scattering, rheology and pH measurements. Release profiles of ginsenosides Rb1 (more hydrophilic) and Rg1 (moderately lipophilic) through a cellulose membrane were also investigated employing Franz diffusion cells. Antioxidant potential and biocompatibility were assessed via 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and cell viability assays. Vehicles remained stable over twelve weeks at 8 °C (NEs Dh stable, gel viscosity + 3.5 %). Diffusion studies showed higher release of Rg1 vs. Rb1 (7.10 vs. 1.39 µg/cm-2 after 28 h). KRG-formulations demonstrated good biocompatibility with primary human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes (72-94 % viability). Radical scavenging capacity of KRG extract did not differ between pure and incorporated form and was lower than that of a Hypericum extract or ascorbic acid. Results render KRG-formulations a potentially promising alternative to conventional antioxidants used in daily products.

Effects of Crude Shea Butters and Their Polar Extracts on Singlet Oxygen Quenching and Against Rose Bengal-Induced HaCaT Cell Phototoxicity

Shea butter (SB) is a raw material fat obtained from Vitellaria paradoxa C.F. Gaertn kernels. We investigated the direct and indirect protective effects of 10 traditional and industrial SBs and their polar extracts on cell-free systems using ABTS and DPPH radical scavenging assays as well as on singlet oxygen (1O2) produced by Rose Bengal (RB) photosensitization. Their effects against RB-induced HaCaT cell phototoxicity were also explored. A spectrophotometric assay and HPLC were performed to quantify and identify phenolic content, which was between 14.16 and 82.99 ppm pyrogallol equivalent. These variations could be due to the SB origin and extraction process. These polar fractions exhibited moderate DPPH and strong ABTS radical-scavenging activity. By applying the UV-visible technique, we demonstrated that SBs and their phenolic compounds behave as 1O2 quenchers in a dose-dependent manner. Moreover, using a UVR-like model after the irradiation of RB, both polar extracts and crude SB exhibited photoprotective effects, highlighting the indirect protective action. In acellular and cellular models, SB and its polar extracts can act as a free radical scavenger against reactive oxygen species and 1O2 quenchers. Due to the maximum absorbance of SB at 280 nm and the antioxidant effect of 1O2 quenching, SB polar extracts exhibit photoprotective properties.

Exploring the In Vitro Photoprotective Effect of a Combination of Aspalathus linearis Natural Extracts: First Steps in Developing New Technologies for Photoprotection Strategies

There is a need for new technologies in photoprotection. The negative effects of solar exposure on the skin have been amply demonstrated and there is an urgency for the development of alternative photoprotective approaches. In this respect, natural extracts represent the most interesting and promising source. Among them, Aspalathus linearis extracts appear to be an excellent candidate due to supporting evidence, their multiple beneficial biological effects, and their robust toxicological profile. Here, we first explored the photoprotective properties of two different Aspalathus linearis extracts (fermented and unfermented) individually, and then in combination, in a simplified model assessing Normal Human Dermal Fibroblast survival after UVB radiation. Surprisingly, we found the fermented extract to be more photoprotective than the unfermented one. In addition, a specific combination of the two extracts showed a synergistic effect. By HPLC and FRAP analyses, we observed that the photoprotective effect did not correlate with the amount of Aspalathus linearis main characteristic metabolites nor with the antioxidant capacity of the ingredients. Finally, an additional photoprotective effect was observed when Aspalathus linearis extracts were combined with a Polypodium leucotomos extract (Fernblock®), a well-known botanical ingredient with demonstrated photoprotection activities. Thus, this work provides a solid scientific basis for the inclusion of this technology in future topical and systemic photoprotective strategies.

Coffea arabica: An Emerging Active Ingredient in Dermato-Cosmetic Applications

Background: Coffea arabica, commonly known as Arabica coffee, has garnered attention in recent years for its potential applications in dermato-cosmetic formulations. This review aims to critically evaluate the emerging role of Coffea arabica as an active ingredient in skin care products, focusing on its bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans, mechanisms of action, and efficacy in dermatological applications. A comparative analysis between the bioactive profiles of the leaves and beans is also presented to elucidate their respective contributions to dermato-cosmetic efficacy. Results: This review synthesizes findings from various studies that highlight the presence of key bioactive compounds in Coffea arabica, including caffeine, chlorogenic acids, and flavonoids. Notably, the leaves exhibit a higher concentration of certain phenolic compounds compared to the beans, suggesting unique properties that may enhance skin health. These compounds have demonstrated significant anticellulite, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging, antibacterial, and moisturizing properties. Discussion: This article delves into the biochemical pathways through which bioactive compounds derived from both the leaves and beans of Coffea arabica exert their beneficial effects on skin and hair health. Furthermore, this review highlights the growing trend of incorporating natural ingredients in cosmetic formulations and the consumer demand for products with scientifically substantiated benefits. Conclusions: The findings of this review underscore the potential of Coffea arabica as a valuable active ingredient in dermato-cosmetic applications. Its multifaceted bioactivity suggests that it can contribute significantly to skin health and cosmetic efficacy. Future research should focus on clinical trials to further validate these benefits and explore optimal formulation strategies for enhanced delivery and stability in cosmetic products.

Characterizing the Ultraviolet (UV) Screening Ability of L-5-Sulfanylhistidine Derivatives on Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Using sunscreens is one of the most widespread measures to protect human skin from sun ultraviolet radiation (UVR) damage. However, several studies have highlighted the toxicity of certain inorganic and organic UV filters used in sunscreens for the marine environment and human health. An alternative strategy may involve the use of natural products of marine origin to counteract UVR-mediated damage. Ovothiols are sulfur-containing amino acids produced by marine invertebrates, microalgae, and bacteria, endowed with unique antioxidant and UV-absorption properties. This study aimed to evaluate the protective effect of synthetic L-5-sulfanyl histidine derivatives, inspired by natural ovothiols, on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) upon UVA exposure. By using a custom-made experimental set-up to assess the UV screening ability, we measured the levels of cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as cell viability and apoptosis in HDFs, in the presence of tested compounds, after UVA exposure, using flow cytometry assays with specific fluorescent probes. The results show that L-5-sulfanyl histidine derivatives display a UV screening capacity and prevent loss in cell viability, the production of cytosolic and mitochondrial ROS induced by UVA exposure in HDFs, and subsequent apoptosis. Overall, this study sheds light on the potential applications of marine-inspired sulfur-containing amino acids in developing alternative eco-safe sunscreens for UVR skin protection.

A systematic review on ethnobotany, phytochemistry, and pharmacology of Ehretia acuminata R. Br. (Boraginaceae), a medicinal plant

For the first time, critical review on E. acuminata R. Br. (Boraginaceae) is established. A glance over its botanical description, geographic distribution, subspecies classification and traditional uses revealed its application in medical and non-medical purposes by ethnic communities in Asia and Australia. Numerous classes of phytoconstituents have been screened and isolated from E. acuminata parts, including phenolics, alkaloids, terpenoids, glycosides, saponins, tannins, lignans, steroids, volatile oils, and fatty acid esters. Crude extracts prepared from different parts were acclaimed with considerable to significant performance in anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, antimicrobial, antiviral, analgesic effect, muscle relaxant, antispasmodic effects, hepatoprotective, wound healing, and photoprotective activities. However, no report linking these pharmacological activities with their isolated phytochemicals can be found which is required to authenticate its role in traditional medicine. Accordingly, the review provides a comprehensive and categorised overview towards current research of E. acuminata R. Br., their limitations, and possible perspectives for future research.

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin health

MAIN CONCLUSION

This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants' diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Effect of hydroalcoholic extract of Sambucus nigra on superficial digital flexor tendon repair in rabbit by ultrasonography and histopathology

BACKGROUND

Adult tendon tissue has limited and slow regenerative capacity. Sambucus nigra plant possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory attributes.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the effect of hydroalcoholic extract of this plant's fruit on superficial digital flexor tendon repair in rabbits (SDFT).

METHODS

Twenty-five male New Zealand white rabbits weighing 1.5-2 kg were selected, quarantined and randomly divided into four groups of six. By performing a partial left posterior limb tenotomy, differentiating the SDFT and creating multiple scrapes were performed. During 3 consecutive days post-surgery, the positive control group was injected with 0.5 mg/kg dexamethasone, whereas the treatment groups received extract doses of 200 and 400 mg/kg, respectively. The negative control group did not receive any medication. Evaluation of sonographic and histopathological parameters was conducted on days 0, 7 and 28 post-surgeries. Findings were analysed and compared using SPSS22.

RESULTS

Both treatment groups showed significant differences in echogenicity, and collagen fibre alignment compared to the control and positive control groups, in sonographic evaluation. Histopathological examination revealed fewer inflammatory cells and increased collagen fibre formation in the treatment groups compared to the other two groups. No significant difference in angiogenesis was observed among the groups on days 7 and 28 (p value <0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The results indicate that the S. nigra fruit extract, by stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing inflammation, effectively accelerates the healing process of injured tendons.

Ultraviolet, Did the Cell See It from the Side or the Bottom? Assessment and Modeling of UV Effects on Cultured Cells Using the CL-1000 UV-Crosslinker

Numerous natural extracts and compounds have been evaluated for their ability to mitigate the adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) overexposure. However, variability in the UV doses that trigger biological responses across studies likely arises from inconsistencies in UV exposure standardization. We hypothesize that these discrepancies are due to variations in culture plates and dishes. The UV dose (D) required to reduce cell viability by 50% differed by a factor of ten between 3.5 cm dishes and 96-well plates. Similarly, the EC50 dose for IL-6 release (D1/2) varied, potentially correlating with the surface area (S). UV exposure to wells with increasing height in 3.5 cm dishes resulted in a decrease in IL-6 release, suggesting that the greater the well height, the more it may influence UV exposure through reflection or shielding effects, thereby contributing to the physiological effects on the cells. To compare these differences among plates, we defined the height-to-diameter ratio (r). Analysis revealed a linear correlation between D1/2 and S in a log-log plot, and between D1/2 and r in a semi-log plot. From this, we defined two empirical indices σ and ρ for UV dose adjustment. A deductive model was also developed to derive a D' value that adjusts UV doses without requiring training. As with σ and ρ, the UV dose D was effectively adjusted using D' as well. These attempts suggest that D' offers a foundational framework for evaluating UVB effects on cultured cells.

Virtual screening of natural products to enhance melanogenosis

Natural products have long been an important source of inspiration for medicinal chemistry and drug discovery. In the cosmetic field, they remain the major elements of the composition and serve as marketing asset. Recent research showed the implication of salt-inducible kinases on the melanin production in skin via MITF regulation. Finding new potent modulators on such target could open the way to several cosmetic applications to attenuate visible signs of photoaging and improve the tan without sun. Since virtual screening can be a powerful tool for detecting hit compounds in the early stages of a drug discovery process, we applied this method on salt-inducible kinase 2 to discover potential interesting compounds. Here, we present the different steps from the construction of a database of natural products, to the validation of a docking protocol and the results of the virtual screening. Hits from the screening were tested in vitro to confirm their efficiency and results are discussed.

Macrofungal Extracts as a Source of Bioactive Compounds for Cosmetical Anti-Aging Therapy: A Comprehensive Review

For centuries, mushrooms have been used as a component of skincare formulations. Environmental stresses and a modern lifestyle expose the skin to accelerated aging. To slow down this process, natural anti-aging skincare ingredients are being sought. In this review, 52 scientific publications about the effects of chemical compounds extracted from the fruiting bodies of macrofungi on skin cells were selected. The effects of extracts from nine species that are tested for anti-aging effects have been described. According to available literature data, macrofungi contain many polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, polysaccharide peptides, free amino acids, sterols, proteins, glycosides, triterpenes, alkaloids, which can have an anti-aging effect on the skin by acting as antioxidants, photoprotective, skin whitening, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and stabilizing collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid levels in the skin.

The structural characterization and UV-protective properties of an exopolysaccharide from a Paenibacillus isolate

Introduction

Overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is known to cause damage to the skin, leading to sunburn and photo-aging. Chemical sunscreen products may give rise to health risks including phototoxicity, photosensitivity, and photosensitivity. Natural polysaccharides have attracted considerable interests due to diverse biological activities.

Methods

A novel polysaccharide isolated was purified and structurally characterized using chemical methods followed by HPLC, GLC-MS, as well as 1D and 2D NMR spectroscopy. The photoprotective effect of the EPS on UVB-induced damage was assessed in vitro using cultured keratinocytes and in vivo using C57BL/6 mouse models.

Results

The average molecular weight of the EPS was 5.48 × 106 Da, composed of glucose, mannose and galactose residues at a ratio of 2:2:1. The repeating units of the EPS were →3)-β-D-Glcp (1→3) [β-D-Galp (1→2)-α-D-Glcp (1→2)]-α-D-Manp (1→3)-α-D-Manp (1→. In cultured keratinocytes, the EPS reduced cytotoxicity and excessive ROS production induced by UVB irradiation. The EPS also exhibits an inhibitory effect on oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation found in the photodamage in mice. 1H NMR-based metabolomics analysis for skin suggested that the EPS partly reversed the shifts of metabolic profiles of the skin in UVB-exposed mice.

Conclusion

The EPS exhibits skin photoprotective effects through regulating oxidative stress both in vivo and in vitro. Our findings highlight that the EPS is a potential candidate in sunscreen formulations for an efficient solution to UVB radiation.

Computer-aided drug design supporting sunscreen research: a showcase study using previously synthesized hybrid UV filter-antioxidant compounds

CONTEXT

Although quantum mechanical calculations have proven effective in accurately predicting UV absorption and assessing the antioxidant potential of compounds, the utilization of computer-aided drug design (CADD) to support sustainable synthesis research of new sunscreen active ingredients remains an area with limited exploration. Furthermore, there are ongoing concerns about the safety and effectiveness of existing sunscreens. Therefore, it remains crucial to investigate photoprotection mechanisms and develop enhanced strategies for mitigating the harmful effects of UVR exposure, improving both the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products. A previous study conducted synthesis research on eight novel hybrid compounds (I-VIII) for use in sunscreen products by molecular hybridization of trans-resveratrol (RESV), avobenzone (AVO), and octinoxate (OMC). Herein, time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations performed in the gas phase on the isolated hybrid compounds (I-VIII) proved to reproduce the experimental UV absorption. Resveratrol-avobenzone structure-based hybrids (I-IV) present absorption maxima in the UVB range with slight differences between them, while resveratrol-OMC structure-based hybrids (V-VIII) showed main absorption in the UVA range. Among RESV-OMC hybrids, compounds V and VI exhibited higher UV absorption intensity, and compound VIII stood out for its broad-spectrum coverage in our simulations. Furthermore, both in silico and in vitro analyses revealed that compounds VII and VIII exhibited the highest antioxidant activity, with compound I emerging as the most reactive antioxidant within RESV-AVO hybrids. The study suggests a preference for the hydrogen atom transfer (HAT) mechanism over single-electron transfer followed by proton transfer (SET-PT) in the gas phase. With a strong focus on sustainability, this approach reduces costs and minimizes effluent production in synthesis research, promoting the eco-friendly development of new sunscreen active ingredients.

METHODS

The SPARTAN'20 program was utilized for the geometry optimization and energy calculations of all compounds. Conformer distribution analysis was performed using the Merck molecular force field 94 (MMFF94), and geometry optimization was carried out using the parametric method 6 (PM6) followed by density functional theory (DFT/B3LYP/6-31G(d)). The antioxidant behavior of the hybrid compounds (I-VIII) was determined using the highest occupied molecular orbital (εHOMO) and the lowest unoccupied molecular orbital (εLUMO) energies, as well as the bond dissociation enthalpy (BDE), ionization potential (IP), and proton dissociation enthalpy (PDE) values, all calculated at the same level of structural optimization. TD-DFT study is carried out to calculate the excitation energy using the B3LYP functional with the 6-31G(d) basis set. The calculated transitions were convoluted with a Gaussian profile using the Gabedit program.

Optimization of an Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Technique and the Effectiveness of the Sunscreen Components Isolated from Bletilla striata

Bletilla striata is the dried tuber of B. striata (Thund.) Reichb.f., which has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, antioxidant and wound healing effects. Traditionally, it has been used for hemostasis therapy, as well as to treat sores, swelling and chapped skin. In this study, we used the ultraviolet (UV) absorbance rate of B. striata extracts as the index, and the extraction was varied with respect to the solid-liquid ratio, ethanol concentration, ultrasonic time and temperature in order to optimize the extraction process for its sunscreen components. The main compounds in the sunscreen ingredients of Baiji (B. striata) were analyzed using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. The sunscreen properties were subsequently evaluated in vitro using the 3M tape method. The results show that the optimal extraction conditions for the sunscreen components of B. striata were a solid-liquid ratio of 1:40 (g/mL), an ethanol concentration of 50%, an ultrasonic time of 50 min and a temperature of 60 °C. A power of 100 W and an ultrasonic frequency of 40 Hz were used throughout the experiments. Under these optimized conditions, the UV absorption rate of the isolated sunscreen components in the UVB region reached 84.38%, and the RSD was 0.11%. Eighteen compounds were identified, including eleven 2-isobutyl malic acid glucose oxybenzyl esters, four phenanthrenes, two bibenzyl and one α-isobutylmalic acid. An evaluation of the sunscreen properties showed that the average UVB absorption values for the sunscreen samples from different batches of B. striata ranged from 0.727 to 1.201. The sunscreen ingredients of the extracts from B. striata had a good UV absorption capacity in the UVB area, and they were effective in their sunscreen effects under medium-intensity sunlight. Therefore, this study will be an experimental reference for the extraction of sunscreen ingredients from the B. striata plant, and it provides evidence for the future development of B. striata as a candidate cosmetic raw material with UVB protection properties.

Ruellia angustiflora (Nees) Lindau ex Rambo: extraction and characterization of phenolic compounds and evaluation of antiradical, photoprotective and antimicrobial activities

Ruellia angustiflora is a shrub popularly known as flower of fire, used in traditional medicine as a healing agent. This study aims to verify the presence of characteristics of pharmaceutical interest in extracts from the root, stem and leaves of this species. The ideal time for ultrasound-assisted extraction is 60 min with a solid-liquid ratio of 1% (w/v). The kinetics of the reaction of the extracts with DPPH is biphasic, and IC50 values are related to the total phenolic compounds. Five phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts, where ferulic acid, rutin and quercetin showed to be the main responsible for the antiradical activity. The extracts displayed considerable photoprotective activity, mainly Ra-LE (SPF = 23). Ra-RE showed an inhibition halo similar to erythromycin against Streptococcus pyogenes. Taken together, these data reveal that Ruellia angustiflora is a source of phenolic compounds and has relevant antiradical, photoprotective and antibacterial activities.

Ultraviolet Filters: Dissecting Current Facts and Myths

Skin cancer is a global and increasingly prevalent issue, causing significant individual and economic damage. UV filters in sunscreens play a major role in mitigating the risks that solar ultraviolet ra-diation poses to the human organism. While empirically effective, multiple adverse effects of these compounds are discussed in the media and in scientific research. UV filters are blamed for the dis-ruption of endocrine processes and vitamin D synthesis, damaging effects on the environment, induction of acne and neurotoxic and carcinogenic effects. Some of these allegations are based on scientific facts while others are simply arbitrary. This is especially dangerous considering the risks of exposing unprotected skin to the sun. In summary, UV filters approved by the respective governing bodies are safe for human use and their proven skin cancer-preventing properties make them in-dispensable for sensible sun protection habits. Nonetheless, compounds like octocrylene and ben-zophenone-3 that are linked to the harming of marine ecosystems could be omitted from skin care regimens in favor of the myriad of non-toxic UV filters.

Polyphenolic Platform Ameliorated Sanshool for Skin Photoprotection

Natural evolution has nurtured a series of active molecules that play vital roles in physiological systems, but their further applications have been severely limited by rapid deactivation, short cycle time, and potential toxicity after isolation. For instance, the instability of structures and properties has greatly descended when sanshool is derived from Zanthoxylum xanthoxylum. Herein, natural polyphenols are employed to boost the key properties of sanshool by fabricating a series of nanoparticles (NPs). The intracellular evaluation and in vivo animal model are conducted to demonstrate the decreased photodamage score and skin-fold thickness of prepared NPs, which can be attributed to the better biocompatibility, improved free radical scavenging, down-regulated apoptosis ratios, and reduced DNA double-strand breaks compared to naked sanshool. This work proposes a novel strategy to boost the key properties of naturally occurring active molecules with the assistance of natural polyphenol-based platforms.

Current insights and future perspectives of ultraviolet radiation (UV) exposure: Friends and foes to the skin and beyond the skin

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is ubiquitous in the environment, which has been classified as an established human carcinogen. As the largest and outermost organ of the body, direct exposure of skin to sunlight or UV radiation can result in sunburn, inflammation, photo-immunosuppression, photoaging and even skin cancers. To date, there are tactics to protect the skin by preventing UV radiation and reducing the amount of UV radiation to the skin. Nevertheless, deciphering the essential regulatory mechanisms may pave the way for therapeutic interventions against UV-induced skin disorders. Additionally, UV light is considered beneficial for specific skin-related conditions in medical UV therapy. Recent evidence indicates that the biological effects of UV exposure extend beyond the skin and include the treatment of inflammatory diseases, solid tumors and certain abnormal behaviors. This review mainly focuses on the effects of UV on the skin. Moreover, novel findings of the biological effects of UV in other organs and systems are also summarized. Nevertheless, the mechanisms through which UV affects the human organism remain to be fully elucidated to achieve a more comprehensive understanding of its biological effects.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.

AIMS

The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.

METHODS

We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.

RESULTS

The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.

CONCLUSION

The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Immunomodulatory Effects of Modified Bovine Colostrum, Whey, and Their Combination with Other Natural Products: Effects on Human Peripheral Blood Mononuclear Cells

Background

Many natural products have immunomodulatory properties. However, the mechanism of immunomodulatory activities are poorly understood.

Objectives

This study evaluated the influence of bovine colostrum products, a whey product, or their combinations with other natural products on human peripheral blood mononuclear cells' (PBMC) ability to produce cytokines upon activation.

Methods

PBMCs were pretreated with ultrafiltered colostrum, nano-filtered bovine colostrum, egg yolk extract, a botanical blend, colostrum + egg yolk extract, colostrum + egg yolk + botanical blend, and fermented whey and then stimulated with lipopolysaccharide or phytohemagglutinin. Cytokine production was measured by the Luminex assay.

Results

All study products demonstrated immunomodulatory properties by regulating cytokines production by activated PBMCs. Ultrafiltered colostrum alone displayed the highest immune stimulatory activity. It stimulated proinflammatory cytokine production by lipopolysaccharide-activated PBMCs and suppressed cytokine production by phytohemagglutinin-activated cells. Other study products mainly suppressed cytokine release by both cell types. The immunomodulatory properties depended upon the dose of the products used in the study.

Conclusions

All tested products modulated innate and adaptive immune cell activities. Most of the products demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties, except ultrafiltered colostrum, which stimulated the lipopolysaccharide-activated PBMC production of inflammatory cytokines. These products can be potentially used to support overall immune health.

Investigating the efficacy of topical application of Ipomoea carnea herbal cream in preventing skin damage induced by UVB radiation in a rat model

Ultraviolet-B irradiation is a common environmental stressor that has detrimental effects on human skin. Natural sunscreens are well-known for their ability to benefit inflamed sunburn and dry skin. This study examined the effect of formulated Ipomoea carnea herbal cream on UVB-induced skin damage. We screened the bioactive compounds of I. carnea crude extract, showing significant antioxidant activity. Additionally, we evaluated the cytotoxicity, revealing that I. carnea extract has less toxicity to vero cells (IC50 98.45 μg/mL) than to A375 cells (IC50 48.95 μg/mL). Based on this, we formulated the I. carnea herbal cream (FIHC) at 50, 100 and 200 mg concentrations and evaluated its organoleptic characteristics. Then, the rats were exposed to UVB radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days) before the cream was applied topically to the dorsal skin surface. Under UVB stress without treatment, rats showed deep dermal damage. In contrast, rats treated with the FIHC exhibited significantly reduced sunburn. Moreover, the histopathological and biochemical assays were confirmed by the topical application of FIHC, which had potentially reduced the skin elasticity and maintained the imbalanced enzyme and non-enzymatic antioxidant activity. Our findings amply demonstrate that the FIHC significantly accelerated the recovery of UVB-induced lesions through antioxidant and down-regulation of skin photodamage.

Protective effects of red orange (Citrus sinensis [L.] Osbeck [Rutaceae]) extract against UVA-B radiation-induced photoaging in Skh:HR-2 mice

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

The skin is the outermost organ of the human body and plays a protective role against external environmental damages, such as sunlight and pollution, which affect anti-oxidant defenses and skin inflammation, resulting in erythema or skin reddening, immunosuppression, and epidermal DNA damage.

MATERIALS/METHODS

The present study aimed to investigate the potential protective effects of red orange complex H extract (ROC) against ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin photoaging in Skh:HR-2 mice. ROC was orally administered at doses of 20, 40, and 80 mg/kg/day for 13 weeks, along with UV irradiation of the mice for 10 weeks.

RESULTS

ROC improved UV-induced skin barrier parameters, including erythema, melanin production, transepidermal water loss, elasticity, and wrinkle formation. Notably, ROC inhibited the mRNA expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin 6 and tumor necrosis factor α) and melanogenesis. In addition, ROC recovered the UV-induced decrease in the hyaluronic acid and collagen levels by enhancing genes expression. Furthermore, ROC significantly downregulated the protein and mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases responsible for collagen degradation. These protective effects of ROC against photoaging are associated with the suppression of UV-induced phosphorylation of c-Jun NH2-terminal kinase and activator protein 1 activation.

CONCLUSIONS

Altogether, our findings suggest that the oral administration of ROC exerts potential protective activities against photoaging in UV-irradiated hairless mice.

A Review of Classification, Biosynthesis, Biological Activities and Potential Applications of Flavonoids

Flavonoids represent the main class of plant secondary metabolites and occur in the tissues and organs of various plant species. In plants, flavonoids are involved in many biological processes and in response to various environmental stresses. The consumption of flavonoids has been known to reduce the risk of many chronic diseases due to their antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties. In the present review, we summarize the classification, distribution, biosynthesis pathways, and regulatory mechanisms of flavonoids. Moreover, we investigated their biological activities and discuss their applications in food processing and cosmetics, as well as their pharmaceutical and medical uses. Current trends in flavonoid research are also briefly described, including the mining of new functional genes and metabolites through omics research and the engineering of flavonoids using nanotechnology. This review provides a reference for basic and applied research on flavonoid compounds.

Spectroscopic insight on impact of environment on natural photoprotectants

Biomimicry has become a key player in researching new materials for a whole range of applications. In this study, we have taken a crude extract from the red algae Palmaria palmata containing mycosporine-like amino acids - a photoprotective family of molecules. We have applied the crude extract onto a surface to assess if photoprotection, and more broadly, light-to-heat conversion, is retained; we found it is. Considering sunscreens as a specific application, we have performed transmission and reflection terahertz spectroscopy of the extract and glycerol to demonstrate how one can monitor stability in real-world applications.

Saline extract of Portulaca elatior leaves with photoprotective and antioxidant activities does not show acute oral and dermal toxicity in mice

The present study aimed to evaluate saline extracts from the leaves (LE) and stem (SE) of Portulaca elatior in relation to their phytochemical composition and photoprotective and antioxidant effects, as well as to evaluate the toxicity of the leaf extract. The extracts were characterized for protein concentration and phenol and flavonoid contents, as well as for thin layer chromatography (TLC) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) profiles. Total antioxidant capacity and DPPH and ABTS+ scavenging activities were determined. In the photoprotective activity assay, the sun protection factor (SPF) was calculated. The toxicity evaluation of LE included in vitro hemolytic assay and in vivo oral and dermal acute toxicity assays in Swiss mice. LE showed the highest protein, phenol, and flavonoid (8.79 mg/mL, 323.46 mg GAE/g, and 101.96 QE/g, respectively). TLC revealed the presence of flavonoids, reducing sugars, terpenes, and steroids in both extracts. In HPLC profiles, LE contained flavonoids, while SE contained flavonoids and ellagic tannins. The antioxidant activity assays showed the lowest IC50 values ​(34.15-413.3 µg/mL) for LE, which presented relevant SPF (> 6) at 50 and 100 µg/mL. LE demonstrated low hemolytic capacity, and no signs of intoxication were observed in mice treated orally or topically at 1000 mg/kg. However, at 2000 mg/kg, an increase in the mean corpuscular volume of erythrocytes and a reduction in lymphocytes were observed; animals treated topically with 2000 mg/kg displayed scratching behavior during the first hour of observation and showed edema and erythema that regressed after six days. In conclusion, LE did not present acute oral or dermal toxicity in Swiss mice at a dose of 1000 mg/kg and showed slight toxicity in animals treated with 2000 mg/kg.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-022-00160-2.

Multifunctional Profiling of Moringa oleifera Leaf Extracts for Topical Application: A Comparative Study of Different Collection Time

This research investigated plant extracts as a source of potential new actives in the nutritional, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical fields. Moringa oleifera, which is extensively known for its nutritional properties, has been investigated in this work by preparation, characterization, and evaluation of the antioxidant (FRAP, DPPH, ORAC, and PCL test), antifungal, photoprotective, and cytotoxicity profile against human melanoma Colo38 cell line of two different extracts (hydroalcoholic and methanolic) and one infusion of dry leaves collected from Paraguay in four distinct harvest times (February, March, April, and May 2017). The outcomes of this study highlight Moringa oleifera as a potential ally to counteract skin aging and oxidative stress, as indicated by the favorable antioxidant profile of the extracts and infusions of Paraguay, which was, in all cases, superior to that provided by the same plant species when collected from Senegal. Moreover, some samples were more efficient in preventing the photodegradation of UVA filter butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) compared to commercial filters, thus suggesting an interesting future role as natural additives in sunscreens.

The role of Gentiana lutea extracts in reducing UV-induced DNA damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can result in DNA damage, mainly through direct formation of pyrimidine dimers and generation of reactive oxygen species, which can lead to the skin disorders including cancer. In accordance with this, the use of natural antigenotoxins and/or antioxidants could contribute to human health protection. Considering that plants are rich in both, the aim of this study was to investigate UV-protective and antioxidative properties of yellow gentian (Gentiana lutea), being well established in pharmacopeias and traditional medicine. Tested extracts were derived from root and shoot of the in vitro cultivated plants. Prescreening of the genotoxic properties of UVC, UVA, and the extracts, as well as the extracts' antigenotoxicity were estimated by applying alkaline comet assay on normal fetal lung fibroblast (MRC-5) and human melanoma cells (Hs 294T). Antioxidant potential was tested in ferrous ions chelating ferric reducing antioxidant power and cupric reducing antioxidant capacity assays. Genotoxicity testing, which revealed moderate DNA-damaging potential of root extract on MRC-5 cells and high genotoxicity of shoot extract on both cell lines, pointed out nongenotoxic concentrations that could be used in antigenotoxicity assay. Doses of 63 and 3 J/cm2 for UVC and UVA, respectively, were established for antigenotoxicity study, since they induced sufficient DNA damage without notable cytotoxicity. Results of antigenotoxicity revealed strong protective effect of both extracts against UVC (the highest inhibitions 58% and 47%) and UVA (the highest inhibitions 69% and 60%), in Hs 294T and MRC-5 cells, respectively. Study of the antioxidative properties demonstrated stronger activity of shoot extract. Results obtained proved to be encouraging but further research of the UV-protective role of Gentiana lutea extracts and underlying molecular mechanisms is recommended.

Evaluation of the Phytochemistry-Therapeutic Activity Relationship for Grape Seeds Oil

Seeds' abundant biologically active compounds make them a suitable primary platform for the production of natural extracts, innovative foods, medicines, and cosmetics. High levels of industrial and agricultural residues and byproducts are generated during the processing of grapes, although some parts can also be repurposed. This paper examines the phytochemical composition, manufacturing processes, and health-improving attributes of many varieties of grape oil derived using various extraction methods. Since the results are influenced by a range of factors, they are expressed differently among studies, and the researchers employ a variety of measuring units, making it difficult to convey the results. The primary topics covered in most papers are grape seed oil's lipophilic fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols. In addition, new methods for extracting grape seed oil should therefore be designed; these methods must be affordable, energy-efficient, and environmentally friendly in order to increase the oil's quality by extracting bioactive components and thereby increasing its biological activity in order to become part of the overall management of multiple diseases.

Trends in cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma on the lip incidence and mortality in the United States, 2000-2019

Objective

This study provided a systematic analysis of the trend in incidence and incidence-based mortality for cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC) on the lips in the USA using demographic characteristics from the Surveillance, Epidemiology, and End Results (SEER) database.

Methods

Patients diagnosed with cSCC on the lips between 2000 and 2019 from the 17 registries of the USA were identified. Incidence and incidence-based mortality rates were analyzed using SEER*Stat 8.4.0.1 software. This paper calculated incidence rates and incidence-based mortality rates by 100,000 person-years for sex, age, race, SEER registries, median household income ($/year), rural-urban distribution, and primary site. The annual percent changes (APC) in incidence and incidence-based mortality rates were then calculated using joinpoint regression software.

Results

Among 8,625 patients diagnosed with cSCC on the lips from 2000 to 2019, men (74.67%), white (95.21%), and 60-79 years old were the most common population, and 3,869 deaths from cSCC on the lips occurred. The overall incidence of cSCC on the lips was 0.516 per 100,000 person-years. cSCC on the lip incidence rates were highest among men, white, and patients aged 60-79 years old. cSCC on the lip incidence rates decreased by 3.210%/year over the study period. The incidence of cSCC on the lips has been decreasing in all sexes, ages, high- or low-income households, and urban or rural patients. The overall incidence-based mortality rate of cSCC on the lips during 2000-2019 was 0.235 per 100,000 person-years. cSCC on the lip incidence-based mortality rates were highest among men, whites, and people older than 80 years old. cSCC on the lip incidence-based mortality increased by 4.975%/year over the study period. cSCC on the lip incidence-based mortality rates increased for all sexes, races, ages, primary sites, high- or low-income households, and urban or rural patients during the study period.

Conclusion

Among patients in the USA diagnosed with cSCC on the lips from 2000 to 2019, the overall incidence decreased by 3.210% annually, and incidence-based mortality increased by 4.975%/year. These findings update and supplement the epidemiological information of cSCC on the lips in the USA.

Microalgae growth rate multivariable mathematical model for biomass production

Background

The use of microalgae has been emerging as a potential technology to reduce greenhouse gases and bioremediate polluted water and produce high-value products as pigments, phytohormones, biofuels, and bioactive compounds. The improvement in biomass production is a priority to make the technology implementation profitable in every application mentioned before.

Methods

The present study was conducted to explore the use of microalgae from genus Chlorella and Tetradesmus for the generation of substances of interest with UV absorption capacity. A mathematical model was developed for both microalgae to characterize the production of microalgae biomass considering the effects of light intensity, temperature, and nutrient consumption. The model was programmed in MATLAB software, where the three parameters were incorporated into a single specific growth rate equation.

Results

It was found that the optimal environmental conditions for each genus (Chlorella T=36°C, and I<787 μmol/m²s; Tetradesmus T=23°C and I<150 μmol/m²s), as well as the optimal specific growth rate depending on the personalized values of the three parameters.

Conclussion

This work could be used in the production of microalgae biomass for the design and development of topical applications to replace commercial options based on compounds that compromise health and have a harmful impact on the environment.

Protective effects of volatile components of aged garlic extract against ultraviolet B-induced apoptosis in human skin fibroblasts

Aged garlic extract (AGE) has been shown to protect the skin against UV-induced damage, but effects of its volatile components remain unknown. We investigated the effects of the volatile fraction of AGE on the responses of cultured skin fibroblasts subjected to UV-B irradiation. UV-B irradiation (20 mJ/cm² ) reduced the cell viability to 55% of control. The nonvolatile and volatile fractions of AGE inhibited the UV-B-induced reduction of cell viability; the cell viabilities were 100% and 73%, respectively. The volatile fraction inhibited the UV-B-induced increase in apoptotic cell death by 28%. The volatile fraction also inhibited the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) induced by UV-B irradiation. GC-MS analysis revealed that a large number of volatile compounds were generated during aging of garlic. These results suggest that the volatile fraction of AGE has protective effects against the UV-B-induced death of skin fibroblasts, and that this effect may partly be due to an inhibition of apoptosis via the downregulation of MAPK signaling. The volatile compounds of AGE may have beneficial applications for skin health. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: In this study, we investigated the effects of AGE against cell damage of UV-B-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. The aging process of garlic produced characteristic volatile compounds that have significant protective effects against UV-induced cell damage. Our results demonstrated that the aging process is a suitable method to develop added value in garlic extracts to improve skin health.

Ellagic Acid Increases Stress Resistance via Insulin/IGF-1 Signaling Pathway in Caenorhabditis elegans

Ellagic acid is a natural polyphenol found in various fruits and vegetables. Numerous studies have shown that ellagic acid has beneficial effects on human health. In this study, we investigated the stress resistant action of ellagic acid in Caenorhabditis elegans (C. elegans). Notably, 50 μM ellagic acid prolonged the lifespan of C. elegans by 36.25%, 36.22%, 155.1%, and 79.07% under ultraviolet radiation stress, heat stress, oxidative stress, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa infection stress, respectively. Furthermore, the mechanism by which ellagic acid reduces the damage caused by ultraviolet radiation in C. elegans was explored. Ellagic acid could significantly induce the nucleus translocation of DAF-16 and, thereby, activate a series of target genes to resist ultraviolet radiation stress. Moreover, ellagic acid also significantly increased the expression of SOD-3 by 3.61 times and the activity of superoxide dismutase by 3.70 times to clean out harmful reactive oxygen species in C. elegans exposed to ultraviolet radiation stress. In both daf-16 mutant and daf-2; daf-16 double-mutant worms exposed to ultraviolet radiation, ellagic acid could no longer prolong their lifespan. These results indicate that ellagic acid plays an important role in resisting ultraviolet radiation stress in C. elegans, probably in an insulin/IGF-1 signaling pathway-dependent way.

Effects of UV and UV-vis Irradiation on the Production of Microalgae and Macroalgae: New Alternatives to Produce Photobioprotectors and Biomedical Compounds

In the last decade, algae applications have generated considerable interest among research organizations and industrial sectors. Bioactive compounds, such as carotenoids, and Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) derived from microalgae may play a vital role in the bio and non-bio sectors. Currently, commercial sunscreens contain chemicals such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have harmful effects on the environment and human health; while microalgae-based sunscreens emerge as an eco-friendly alternative to provide photo protector agents against solar radiation. Algae-based exploration ranges from staple foods to pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and biomedical applications. This review aims to identify the effects of UV and UV-vis irradiation on the production of microalgae bioactive compounds through the assistance of different techniques and extraction methods for biomass characterization. The efficiency and results focus on the production of a blocking agent that does not damage the aquifer, being beneficial for health and possible biomedical applications.

Antagonistic Skin Toxicity of Co-Exposure to Physical Sunscreen Ingredients Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticles

Being the main components of physical sunscreens, zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) and titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO₂ NPs) are often used together in different brands of sunscreen products with different proportions. With the broad use of cosmetics containing these nanoparticles (NPs), concerns regarding their joint skin toxicity are becoming more and more prominent. In this study, the co-exposure of these two NPs in human-derived keratinocytes (HaCaT) and the in vitro reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model EpiSkin was performed to verify their joint skin effect. The results showed that ZnO NPs significantly inhibited cell proliferation and caused deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage in a dose-dependent manner to HaCaT cells, which could be rescued with co-exposure to TiO₂ NPs. Further mechanism studies revealed that TiO₂ NPs restricted the cellular uptake of both aggregated ZnO NPs and non-aggregated ZnO NPs and meanwhile decreased the dissociation of Zn²⁺ from ZnO NPs. The reduced intracellular Zn²⁺ ultimately made TiO₂ NPs perform an antagonistic effect on the cytotoxicity caused by ZnO NPs. Furthermore, these joint skin effects induced by NP mixtures were validated on the epidermal model EpiSkin. Taken together, the results of the current research contribute new insights for understanding the dermal toxicity produced by co-exposure of different NPs and provide a valuable reference for the development of formulas for the secure application of ZnO NPs and TiO₂ NPs in sunscreen products.

Antioxidant Activity of Plant-Derived Colorants for Potential Cosmetic Application

Application of plant-derived colorants in products, i.e., cosmetics or food, apart from imparting the desired color without harming the environment, may provide other benefits. Valuable ingredients in cosmetic formulations include antioxidants showing an advantageous effect on the skin by neutralizing free radicals that accelerate the aging process and cause skin defects. Antioxidant activity can be determined by chemical-based methods. The aim of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of plant-derived colorants (purple and red colorant) by two methods: CUPRAC and DPPH free-radical scavenging activity. Antioxidant activity evaluation using both methods for colorants samples was also performed after 5, 15, 30, and 60 min of exposure to UVC irradiation. The results obtained by CUPRAC method were for purple and red colorant unexposed samples as follows: 6.87 ± 0.09 and 4.48 ± 0.14 mg/100 mg colorant expressed as caffeic acid equivalent, respectively. UVC treatment did not affect the results of the antioxidant activity for red colorant and for the purple one only a slight influence was observed. DPPH free-radical scavenging activity for unexposed samples was 70.06 ± 7.74% DPPH/100 mg colorant for the red colorant and 96.11 ± 3.80% DPPH/100 mg colorant for the purple one.

Photochemoprevention of ultraviolet Beam Radiation-induced DNA damage in keratinocytes by topical delivery of nanoformulated Epigallocatechin-3-gallate

Ultraviolet Beam (UVB) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer worldwide. Besides biocompatibility, the instability and limited skin permeability are the most challenging features of many effective photochemopreventive agents. (-)-Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is a natural polyphenolic compound extracted from Camellia sinensis that has been demonstrated to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer properties. We evaluated the efficacy of three innovative EGCG nanoformulations in chemoprevention of UVB-induced DNA damage in keratinocytes. Results indicated that the EGCG nanoformulations reduced UVB-induced oxidative stress elevation and DNA damage. The nanoformulations also reduced the UVB-induced formation of pyrimidine and pyrimidone photoproducts in 2D human immortalized HaCaT keratinocytes and SKH-1 hairless mice through antioxidant effects and possibly through absorption of UVB radiation. In addition, EGCG nanoformulations inhibited UVB-induced chemokine/cytokine activation and promoted EGCG skin permeability and stability. Taken together, the results suggest the use of EGCG nanoformulations as potential natural chemopreventive agents during exposure to UVB radiation.

Self-polishing antifouling coatings based on benzamide derivatives containing capsaicin

In this study, N-hydroxymethylbenzamide was alkylated with various aromatic compounds to obtain five novel benzamide derivatives containing capsaicin (BDCC), and the BDCC were incorporated into coatings as auxiliary agents. The relationships between properties and structures were discussed based on experimental and theoretical results. The theoretical results showed the optimized configurations of BDCC and confirmed that the benzene ring, phenolic hydroxyl, ester and amide groups were active sites. Experimental results indicated that the antimicrobial and antifouling effects of compounds b1, b2 and b3 were better than those of chlorothalonil, their MIC and MBC values were no more than 64 and 512 μg·mL-1, and their test panels were covered only with small amounts of dirt and biofilms; they worked well as green antifouling additives. The experimental and theoretical results showed that BDCC and BDCC antifouling coatings were effective and eco-friendly.

A Study on the Effect of Nitrate and Phosphate Concentrations on the Production of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids by Chlorella Vulgaris

BACKGROUND

Cyanobacteria can produce compounds absorbing ultraviolet irradiation. Mycosporine like amino acids (MAAs) are some of these important metabolites, which can be potentially considered as a sunscreen agent in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. Different factors have been reported that can affect the biosynthesis of MAA.

OBJECTIVE

In this study, the influence of different concentrations of phosphate and nitrate under different environmental conditions on MAA production by Chlorella vulgaris was investigated using an experimental design method, in order to enhance MAAs production in this specious.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A 2³ full factorial design (FFD) using Design-Expert v7.0.0 software was used to optimize simultaneously all the three factors of nitrate and phosphate concentration and condition of incubation environment on the MAA production by this species of C. vulgaris. Two milliliter of organism stock were grown in 200 mL BG11 medium and after 21 days, the biomasses of all samples were separated. Then, the MAA was extracted from dried biomass using methanol extraction. The extracts were analyzed by reverse-phase high performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC). After complete analysis, four samples were then cultured at the optimized conditions and analyzed by liquid chromatohraphy coupled to mass spectrometry (LC/MS).

RESULTS

The results showed that this microalga could produce compounds with λ^max of 330 nm and a retention time of about 2 min. According to the central composite analysis, phosphate at 0.51 g.L^-1 and nitrate at 2.5 g.L^-1 can be considered as the optimum concentrations, resulting to the preferable conditions concerning the culture in germinator. Based on LC/MSS analysis, the major compound had a m/z of 332 at the optimum condition.

CONCLUSION

Thus, this species is expected to have the capability of MAA production (maybe Shinorine) or one of its glycosylated derivatives.

An Insight into Anticancer Effect of Propolis and Its Constituents: A Review of Molecular Mechanisms

Propolis is a natural compound collected by honeybees from different parts of plants. Honeybees produce a sticky component besides honey by mixing the tree resin and other botanical sources with saliva called propolis or bee glue. Propolis was traditionally used as a wound healing substance, cosmetic, medicine, and many other conditions. Till now, there is no definite curable treatment for most cancers and chemotherapeutic drugs and drugs used for targeted therapies have serious side effects. According to a recent research, natural products are becoming increasingly essential in cancer prevention. Natural products are a great source of potential therapeutic agents, especially in the treatment of cancer. Previous studies have reported that the presence of caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), artepillin C, and chrysin is responsible for the anticancer potential of propolis. Most of the previous studies suggested that propolis and its active compounds inhibit cancer progression by targeting multiple signaling pathways including phosphoinositide 3-kinases (PI3K)/Akt and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling molecules, and induce cell cycle arrest. Induction of apoptosis by propolis is mediated through extrinsic and intrinsic apoptotic pathways. The aim of this review is to highlight and summarize the molecular targets and anticancer potential of propolis and its active compounds on cell survival, proliferation, metastasis, and apoptosis in cancer cells.

Focus on the Contribution of Oxidative Stress in Skin Aging

Skin aging is one of the most evident signs of human aging. Modification of the skin during the life span is characterized by fine lines and wrinkling, loss of elasticity and volume, laxity, rough-textured appearance, and pallor. In contrast, photoaged skin is associated with uneven pigmentation (age spot) and is markedly wrinkled. At the cellular and molecular level, it consists of multiple interconnected processes based on biochemical reactions, genetic programs, and occurrence of external stimulation. The principal cellular perturbation in the skin driving senescence is the alteration of oxidative balance. In chronological aging, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced mainly through cellular oxidative metabolism during adenosine triphosphate (ATP) generation from glucose and mitochondrial dysfunction, whereas in extrinsic aging, loss of redox equilibrium is caused by environmental factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, cigarette smoking, and inadequate nutrition. During the aging process, oxidative stress is attributed to both augmented ROS production and reduced levels of enzymatic and non-enzymatic protectors. Apart from the evident appearance of structural change, throughout aging, the skin gradually loses its natural functional characteristics and regenerative potential. With aging, the skin immune system also undergoes functional senescence manifested as a reduced ability to counteract infections and augmented frequency of autoimmune and neoplastic diseases. This review proposes an update on the role of oxidative stress in the appearance of the clinical manifestation of skin aging, as well as of the molecular mechanisms that underline this natural phenomenon sometimes accelerated by external factors.

Photoprotective and Antiaging Effects of a Standardized Red Orange (Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck) Extract in Asian and Caucasian Subjects: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Controlled Study

The increase in solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) that reaches the Earth’s surface should make us reflect on the need to develop new approaches in protecting the skin from UVR exposure. The present study aims to evaluate the photoprotective and antiaging efficacy of a red orange extract (100 mg/day) in both Asian and Caucasian subjects. A randomized, double-blind, controlled study was carried out in 110 Asian and Caucasian subjects. Product efficacy was measured as follows: (1) the photoprotective effect was measured by the minimal erythema dose (MED) assessment; (2) the efficacy in decreasing the UVA+B-induced skin redness was measured by colorimetry; (3) the antioxidant efficacy was measured by the ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and the malondialdehyde (MDA) assay; and (4) skin moisturization, skin elasticity, skin radiance, the intensity of melanin staining, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and wrinkles were measured to assess the antiaging efficacy. The intake of the product for 56 days was effective in improving the skin reaction to UV exposure; in increasing the skin antioxidant capacity as well as in decreasing UVA-induced lipid peroxidation; in increasing the skin moisturization, skin elasticity, and skin radiance; and in decreasing TEWL, the intensity of melanin staining inside dark spots, and wrinkle depth. Our results suggest that the test product is effective in counteracting both the harmful effects of UVR exposure and aging signs.

HPLC-DAD phenolic screening and in vitro assessment of antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of Tanteboucht dates

The date palm (Phoenix dactylifera L.) is one of the most important crops in arid and semi-arid zones. Date fruit occupies a good place in traditional medicine among the Saharan residents, due to its therapeutic virtues; although there may be several therapeutic virtues yet to be discovered. The aim of this study was to investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the hexanic (EHx), chloroformic (ECh), ethyl acetate (EAc) and aqueous (EAq) extracts of Tanteboucht pulp. The phytochemical characterization and estimation of phenolic compounds were done based on an HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was evaluated by a DPPH scavenging effect test. The sensitivity of 7 bacterial strains and Candida albicans to Tanteboucht extracts was tested using the diffusion disc on agar medium method. The membrane stabilization test was used to determine the in vitro anti-inflammatory effect of the fruit extracts. Fourteen phenolic compounds were detected in organic extracts and EAc was the richest followed by ECh and finally EHx which was very poor in these molecules. All extracts showed antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties which differ in rate. Indeed, ECh had the greatest scavenging effect on DPPH, followed by EAc and then EAq. EAc was the most potent inhibitor of microbial strains. EAc and ECh were more efficient at membrane stabilization followed by EAq and the three extracts had more anti-inflammatory capacity than the positive control acetyl salicylic acid. The obtained considerable activities were significantly correlated with flavonoid and tannin contents in the extracts.

Photoprotective Potential, Cytotoxicity, and UPLC-QTOF/MS Analysis on Bioactive Solvent Fractions of Moringa concanensis Nimmo Bark

Moringa concanensis Nimmo (Moringaceae) belongs to the same family of M. oleifera (miracle tree) and is a medicinal plant traditionally used by Indians to treat various ailments related to diabetes, tumours, inflammation, and blood pressure. Despite its versatility, the photoprotective properties of the plant remain unclear. This study revealed the UV-protective properties of its methanol bark extract and respective subfractions, chloroform, hexane, and ethyl acetate through total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC & TFC), antioxidant (DPPH), sun protecting factor (SPF) value, and UV absorption spectra analysis. This study also investigated on the inhibitory effect of the tested samples on collagenases and elastase, which are well-known for their role in the skin. The cytotoxic and H2O2 scavenging properties of M. concanensis in 3T3-L1 cells were explored. Finally, the phytochemical profiling of the active fraction was conducted through UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis. Among the tested fractions, the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis showed the highest TPC (30.92 ± 0.71 mg GAE/DW), TFC (29.05 ± 0.09 mg QE/DW), and antioxidant properties (IC50-6.616 ± 1.90 μgml−1). Additionally, chloroform fraction demonstrated the highest SPF value, 10.46 at 200 μgml−1, compared to the other tested fractions. All the fractions showed a broad absorption spectrum covering both UVA and UVB ranges. The chloroform fraction of M. concanensis also showed collagenase (50%) and elastase (IC50-2.95 ± 1.23 μgml−1) inhibition properties similar to the positive control. Cytotoxic results revealed that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis prevented the H2O2-induced oxidative damage in 3T3-L1 cells even at lower concentrations (1.56 μgml−1). UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis tentatively identified the presence of bioactive flavonoids and phenolics such as astragalin, quercetin, isoquercetin, and caffeic acid in the active fraction of M. concanensis bark. Overall, it is suggested that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis bark has the potency to be used as an active ingredient in sunscreen products.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.

Shedding a New Light on Skin Aging, Iron- and Redox-Homeostasis and Emerging Natural Antioxidants

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are necessary for normal cell signaling and the antimicrobial defense of the skin. However excess production of ROS can disrupt the cellular redox balance and overwhelm the cellular antioxidant (AO) capacity, leading to oxidative stress. In the skin, oxidative stress plays a key role in driving both extrinsic and intrinsic aging. Sunlight exposure has also been a major contributor to extrinsic photoaging of the skin as its oxidising components disrupt both redox- and iron-homeostasis, promoting oxidative damage to skin cells and tissue constituents. Upon oxidative insults, the interplay between excess accumulation of ROS and redox-active labile iron (LI) and its detrimental consequences to the skin are often overlooked. In this review we have revisited the oxidative mechanisms underlying skin damage and aging by focussing on the concerted action of ROS and redox-active LI in the initiation and progression of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging processes. Based on these, we propose to redefine the selection criteria for skin antiaging and photoprotective ingredients to include natural antioxidants (AOs) exhibiting robust redox-balancing and/or iron-chelating properties. This would promote the concept of natural-based or bio-inspired bifunctional anti-aging and photoprotective ingredients for skincare and sunscreen formulations with both AO and iron-chelating properties.

Photoprotection and skin irritation effect of hydrogels containing hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis: A natural pathway against skin cancer

The use of natural products in sunscreen formulations as a prophylactic measure against skin cancer is receiving special attention attributed to the photoprotective and antioxidant properties of their chemical components. In this work, we describe the development of topical hydrogel formulations containing hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis (HERP), and the evaluation of the dermal sensitizing effect of the developed products. Sunscreen formulations composed of HERP in different concentrations (1.5, 2.5 or 3.5% w/w) alone or in combination with a chemical (octyl methoxycinnamate) and/or physical (titanium dioxide) filters were developed using poloxamer 407 as gel basis. The preliminary and accelerated stability tests, texture analysis and spreadability tests were performed. All formulations revealed to be stable in preliminary stability assessment. The formulations containing HERP 1.5 and 2.5% alone or associated with the filters showed intense modifications during accelerated stability test, which were confirmed by rheological analyses. The incorporation of HERP and filters in the poloxamer hydrogel decreased the toughness of product (p < 0.05) and the formulation containing HERP alone presented the lowest adhesivity (p < 0.001). The incorporation of HERP in the hydrogel decreased the poloxamer transition temperature, showing different rheological behavior with the increase of HERP concentration. The developed formulations were stable, exhibited non-Newtonian and pseudoplastic behavior, showing in vivo skin compatibility and no skin irritancy.

Benzothiazole Derivatives as Multifunctional Antioxidant Agents for Skin Damage: Structure–Activity Relationship of a Scaffold Bearing a Five-Membered Ring System

Skin diseases often give multifactorial damages; therefore, the development of multifunctional compounds represents a suitable approach especially against disorders that are induced by oxidative stress. Thus, taking into account the successful results we achieved on benzimidazoles, we have devised a new series of isosteric benzothiazoles and investigated their antioxidant, photoprotective, antifungal and antiproliferative activity. Particular attention has been paid to synergistic antioxidant and photoprotective properties. For compounds 9a and 10a, a multifunctional profile was outlined, supported by an excellent filtering capacity, mainly UVB, which has higher capacities than those of the reference PBSA which is currently in the market as a UV sunscreen filter. The two compounds were also the best in terms of growth inhibition of dermatophytes and Candida albicans, and 10a also showed good antioxidant activity. Furthermore, 9a was also effective on melanoma tumor cells (SK-Mel 5), making these compounds good candidates in the development of new skin protective and preventive agents.