Protective effects of topical antioxidants in humans

A Prospective Open-Label Study of Tolerance and Effectiveness of Sequential Dermocosmetic Treatments Combining Poly-l-Lysine Biovectors With Vitamins A and C

Background and Objectives

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic inflammatory skin condition, affecting 15%-20% of children and up to 10% of adults. It has a significant impact on patients' quality of life and represents a considerable burden on healthcare systems. Management strategies aim to restore the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and achieve physiological and homeostatic balance. This study evaluates the safety and efficacy of a new dermocosmetic formulation combining poly-l-lysine biovectors with vitamins A and C.

Methods

A single-arm, open-label study was conducted on 20 patients diagnosed with AD, including 14 women and 6 men aged between 24 and 63, with skin phototypes of Fitzpatrick I-VI. Treatment involved sequential application of poly-l-lysine G2/vitamin C in the morning and poly-l-lysine G3/vitamin A in the evening for 28 days, on the face, hands, and body. Outcomes were assessed using the Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and SCORAD scores. Additional assessments included a visual analog scale for pruritus and sleep disturbance, as well as patient self-report questionnaires on skin improvement and treatment satisfaction.

Results

The treatment was well-tolerated, with no adverse effects and no relapses of AD. After 28 days, patients showed a significant reduction in DLQI (-61.8%, Cohen's d = 1.20) and SCORAD (-41.8%, Cohen's d = 1.05) scores. Objective improvements included reductions in erythema (-50%), dryness (-60%), and pruritus (-50%).

Conclusion

This study demonstrates the potential of poly-l-lysine-based dermocosmetics combined with vitamins A and C to improve the symptoms and quality of life of patients suffering from AD. The formulations were well-tolerated and effective in restoring the skin barrier and reducing inflammation. Further large-scale controlled studies are needed to validate these results and explore long-term efficacy.

Gut-derived wild blueberry phenolic acid metabolites modulate extrinsic cutaneous damage

As the first line of defense, the skin is equipped with various physiological mechanisms positioned to prevent incoming oxidative damage from numerous environmental insults. With persistent exposure to the environment, understanding ways to augment the skin defenses is paramount in protecting from premature aging. In this study, we investigated the ability of five dietary phenolic metabolites, typically found in the bloodstream after wild blueberry consumption, to successfully defend the skin from UV light exposure in a novel ex vivo co-culture model of human skin explants and primary endothelial cells. Skin explants, placed in transwell inserts, were exposed to UV, and subsequently co-cultured with endothelial cells. When the endothelial cells had been pretreated with the bioactive metabolites at physiological concentrations (hippuric acid 3000 nM, isoferulic acid 1000 nM, salicylic acid 130 nM, benzoic acid 900 nM, α-hydroxyhippuric acid 400 nM) cutaneous damage was prevented on the co-cultured with UV-challenged skin explants. Co-culture with non-pretreated endothelial cells did not protect skin explants. Specifically, the pretreatment was able to reduce skin lipid peroxidation (measured as 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts), and pro-inflammatory enzymes such as cyclooxygenase 2 (COX-2) and NADPH oxidase 4 (NOX-4). Furthermore, pretreatment with the metabolites prevented UV-induced release of inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β and IL-8 as well as nitric oxides (NO) levels. In addition, the metabolites showed an impressive ability to prevent the loss of cutaneous structural proteins including involucrin and collagen type 1. Of note, endothelial cells cultured with UV exposed skin explants exhibited increased oxidative stress demonstrated by heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) up-regulation which was significantly prevented in the metabolite treated models. These findings highlight the ability of dietary polyphenolic metabolites to improve cutaneous defenses against extrinsic stressors.

Design and Biocompatibility of Biodegradable Poly(octamethylene suberate) Nanoparticles to Treat Skin Diseases

Biodegradable aliphatic polyester formulations as carriers for topical drug delivery show the potential to encapsulate structurally different therapeutic compounds. Poly(octamethylene suberate) (POS) nanoparticles (POS-NPs) were used as a matrix to encapsulate four therapeutic molecules used to treat skin disorders: caffeine (CF), quercetin (QR), hydrocortisone (HC), and adapalene (AD). Hydrophobicity and chemical structure of bioactive compounds (BCs) influenced the physicochemical stability of drug-loaded nanoparticles. The particle size of drug-loaded nanoparticles was between 254.9 nm for the CF-POS-NP and 1291.3 for QR-POS-NP. Particles had a negative charge from -27.6 mV (QR) to -49.2 mV (HC). Drug loading content for all BC-POS-NPs varies between 36.11 ± 1.48% (CF-POS-NP) and 66.66 ± 4.87% (AD-POS-NP), and their entrapment efficiency is relatively high (28.30 ± 1.81% and 99.95 ± 0.04%, respectively). Calorimetric analysis showed the appearance of polymorphism for AD- and HC-loaded systems and the drug's complete solubilisation into all nanoparticle formulations. FTIR and NMR spectra showed apparent drug incorporation into the polymer matrix of NPs. The encapsulation of BCs enhanced the antioxidative effect. The prepared POS nanoparticles' cytotoxicity was studied using two dermal cell lines, keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and fibroblasts (HDFn). The nanoparticle cytotoxic effect was more substantial on HaCaT cell lines. A reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was successfully used to investigate the penetration of polymeric NPs. Based on permeation and histology studies, HC-POS-NPs and CF-POS-NPs were shown not to be suitable for dermal applications with the explored drug concentrations. AD presents a high permeation rate and no toxic impact on RHE.

Bioinspired polydopamine nanoparticles as efficient antioxidative and anti-inflammatory enhancers against UV-induced skin damage

Excessive and prolonged ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure causes photodamage, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis in human skin. Therefore, safe and effective sun protection is one of the most fundamental requirements. Living organisms tend to evolve various natural photoprotective mechanisms to avoid photodamage. Among them, melanin is the main functional component of the photoprotective system of human skin. Polydopamine (PDA) is synthesized as a mimic of natural melanin, however, its photoprotective efficiency and mechanism in protecting against skin damage and photoaging remain unclear. In this study, the novel sunscreen products based on melanin-inspired PDA nanoparticles (NPs) are rationally designed and prepared. We validate that PDA NPs sunscreen exhibits superior effects on photoprotection, which is achieved by the obstruction of epidermal hyperplasia, protection of the skin barrier, and resolution of inflammation. In addition, we find that PDA NPs are efficiently intake by keratinocytes, exhibiting robust ROS scavenging and DNA protection ability with minimal cytotoxicity. Intriguingly, PDA sunscreen has an influence on maintaining homeostasis of the dermis, displaying an anti-photoaging property. Taken together, the biocompatibility and full photoprotective properties of PDA sunscreen display superior performance to those of commercial sunscreen. This work provides new insights into the development of a melanin-mimicking material for sunscreens.

Blue light and skin: what is the intriguing link?

Blue light has garnered attention because of its ability to penetrate more deeply into the skin layers, and induce cellular dysfunction and DNA damage. Photoageing, hyperpigmentation and melasma are some of the cutaneous changes that develop on exposure to blue light. To date, the therapeutic roles of blue light have been evaluated in dermatological conditions like psoriasis, eczema, acne vulgaris, actinic keratosis and cutaneous malignancies, among others. In this review, we have attempted to present an evidence-based compilation of the effects of blue light on the skin.

Alaskan Bog Blueberry (Vaccinium uliginosum) Extract as an Innovative Topical Approach to Prevent UV-Induced Skin Damage

Our body is continuously exposed to various exogenous aggressors, and, in particular, the skin represents the main target for outdoor stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure is well-known to be associated with the development/worsening of extrinsic photoaging and a multitude of skin conditions. Considering the role of photoprotection in skin health, the research of natural photoprotective molecules becomes of great importance. Therefore, in this work we wanted to evaluate the beneficial protective effects of ripe berries of Vaccinium uliginosum (Alaska bog blueberry (BB)) extract (100 μg/mL) for preventing the cutaneous oxidative, inflammatory, and structural damage induced by exposure to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB radiation. We observed that the topical application of BB extract on human ex vivo skin explants averted the UV-induced cutaneous OxInflammatory phenomenon by quenching the increase in the oxidative and inflammatory marker levels, such as 4-hydroxynonenal (4HNE), heme-oxygenase-1 (HO-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR); as well as by counteracting the loss of structural proteins (filaggrin and involucrin) induced by UV radiation. Our data propose the use of a topical application of Alaska bog blueberry extract as a natural and valuable approach to ensure photoprotection against UV-induced skin damage and premature aging.

Reactive Oxygen Species and Pressure Ulcer Formation after Traumatic Injury to Spinal Cord and Brain

Traumatic injuries to the nervous system, including the brain and spinal cord, lead to neurological dysfunction depending upon the severity of the injury. Due to the loss of motor (immobility) and sensory function (lack of sensation), spinal cord injury (SCI) and brain injury (TBI) patients may be bed-ridden and immobile for a very long-time. These conditions lead to secondary complications such as bladder/bowel dysfunction, the formation of pressure ulcers (PUs), bacterial infections, etc. PUs are chronic wounds that fail to heal or heal very slowly, may require multiple treatment modalities, and pose a risk to develop further complications, such as sepsis and amputation. This review discusses the role of oxidative stress and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the formation of PUs in patients with TBI and SCI. Decades of research suggest that ROS may be key players in mediating the formation of PUs. ROS levels are increased due to the accumulation of activated macrophages and neutrophils. Excessive ROS production from these cells overwhelms intrinsic antioxidant mechanisms. While short-term and moderate increases in ROS regulate signal transduction of various bioactive molecules; long-term and excessively elevated ROS can cause secondary tissue damage and further debilitating complications. This review discusses the role of ROS in PU development after SCI and TBI. We also review the completed and ongoing clinical trials in the management of PUs after SCI and TBI using different technologies and treatments, including antioxidants.

Blue light protection, part II-Ingredients and performance testing methods

BACKGROUND

There are numerous cosmetic ingredients that have been identified to have blue light protection benefits. The urge to learn more about blue light protection claims has led to several substantiation test methods that can be utilized by companies to prove product efficacy.

AIMS

Part II of this article provides up-to-date information on cosmetic ingredients that can provide protection from blue light, and methods companies can use to substantiate blue light protection claims.

METHODS

An Internet search was completed using the Google Scholar database and a cosmetic ingredient supplier database (UL Prospector) for ingredients and relevant literature.

RESULTS

Multiple ingredient categories, for example, algae-derived ingredients, UV filters, botanical extracts, antioxidants, and vitamins, are available on the market to fight against blue light-induced skin damage. There is not a formal standardized method to test for blue light protection; however, spectrophotometers, imaging devices, measuring oxidative stress, and visual evaluations are some of the methods being used today.

CONCLUSIONS

The number of ingredients launched for blue light protection and new methods developed to test products for blue light protection claims is expected to increase in the near future as we are learning more about the mechanism of damage that occurs in the skin upon blue light exposure.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Do We Utilize Our Knowledge of the Skin Protective Effects of Carotenoids Enough?

Due to their potential health-promoting effects, carotenoids have drawn both scientific and public attention in recent years. The primary source of carotenoids in the human skin is diet, mainly fruits, vegetables, and marine product, but they may originate from supplementation and topical application, too. In the skin, they accumulate mostly in the epidermis and act as a protective barrier to various environmental influences. Namely, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental factors, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR), air pollution, and smoking, that cause oxidative stress within the skin with consequent premature (extrinsic) aging. UVR, as the most prominent environmental factor, may cause additional detrimental skin effects, such as sunburn, DNA damage, and skin cancer. Therefore, photoprotection is the first line intervention in the prevention of premature aging and skin cancer. Numerous studies have demonstrated that carotenoids, particularly β-carotene, lycopene, lutein, and astaxanthin, have photoprotective effects, not only through direct light-absorbing properties, but also through their antioxidant effects (scavenging reactive oxygen species), as well as by regulation of UV light-induced gene expression, modulation of stress-dependent signaling, and/or suppression of cellular and tissue responses like inflammation. Interventional studies in humans with carotenoid-rich diet have shown its photoprotective effects on the skin (mostly by decreasing the sensitivity to UVR-induced erythema) and its beneficial effects in prevention and improvement of skin aging (improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, wrinkles, and age spots). Furthermore, carotenoids may be helpful in the prevention and treatment of some photodermatoses, including erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP), porphyria cutanea tarda (PCT) and polymorphous light eruption (PMLE). Although UVR is recognized as the main etiopathogenetic factor in the development of non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC) and melanoma, and the photoprotective effects of carotenoids are certain, available studies still could not undoubtedly confirm the protective role of carotenoids in skin photocarcinogenesis.

Effects of Post-administration of β-Carotene on Diet-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Hairless Mice

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a cutaneous condition characterized by itchy, swollen, and dry skin, which is mediated by T helper cell-related cytokines. β-Carotene, a natural red pigment found in plants, exhibits antioxidant activity that has been shown to promote an inflammatory response. Because it is not clear whether β-carotene suppresses inflammation in AD skin tissues, we examined the effects of oral administration of β-carotene in mice induced by a low zinc/magnesium diet (HR-AD diet). Our studies found that AD-like inflammation was remarkably reduced by β-carotene. In addition, β-carotene significantly suppressed protein expression of TNF-α, IL-1β, and MCP-1 and mRNA expression of TSLP, IL-6, IL-1β, IL-4, IL-5, and Par-2 in AD-like skin tissues. It was also found that mRNA and protein expression of filaggrin (a major structural protein in epidermis) in AD-like skin was significantly elevated by β-carotene administration. Furthermore, β-carotene treatment significantly reduced the activity and/or mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), degradation of the extracellular matrix and regulation of chemokines. These results suggest that β-carotene reduces skin inflammation through the suppressed expression of inflammatory factors or the activity of MMPs as well as the promotion of filaggrin expression in AD-like skin. β-Carotene is a potent anti-inflammatory agent, which improves AD-like skin by enhancing the skin barrier function.

Clinical Efficacy and Safety on Combining 20% Trichloroacetic Acid Peel with Topical 5% Ascorbic Acid for Melasma

Introduction

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) is a versatile peeling agent for treatment of melasma. However, Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is reported to be the most common side-effect associated with TCA peel. Topical Ascorbic Acid (AA) due to its effect as antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor helps to prevent PIH and maintains the response.

Aim

To assess the clinical efficacy, safety and reduction in Melasma Quality of Life (MELASQOL) on combining 20% TCA peel with 5% ascorbic acid cream in epidermal melasma.

Materials and Methods

This study was conducted in the Department of Dermatology, Pt. Bhagwat Dayal Sharma University of Health Sciences, Rohtak. This was an open labelled prospective randomized study in which 60 patients of epidermal melasma were enrolled for 12 weeks. Patients were divided into two groups: Combination group received 20% TCA peel every two weeks with once daily 5% ascorbic acid cream and Control group received only 20% TCA peel. Melasma Area Severity Index (MASI) was used for evaluating clinical improvement of melasma. Improvement in Quality Of Life (QoL) was assessed by MELASQOL scale in both groups. Adverse effects were evaluated at each visit. All statistical analysis was carried out with SPSS 20^th version. The difference in change in mean MASI scoring and MELASQOL scores between the two groups were analysed using Mann-Whitney test. The side effects between the two groups were compared using Chi-square test.

Results

The combination group demonstrated a statistically significant improvement in MASI, percentage decrease in MASI and quality of life as compared to control group after treatment. At the baseline there was no statistically significant difference in MASI between the two groups (i.e., MASI in combination group and control group were 23.55±4.61 and 23.613±4.088 respectively). However, it was statistically significant at the end of therapy (i.e., MASI in combination group was 9.50±5.31 and in control group was 15.10±4.44). When the results were analysed in terms of percentage decrease in MASI from baseline, there was statistically significant difference in combination group (i.e., 10.87±4.11) as compared to control group (i.e., 6.3±1.97) after 2^nd week of therapy. When the mean MELASQOL scores were compared between the two groups at the end of therapy (i.e., 12 weeks), it was found to be statistically significantly lower in combination group (16.60±8.03) as compared to control group (25.90±8.17). Minor adverse effects like post peel erythema, pruritus, burning and stinging sensation were observed in some of the patients, which didn't necessitate termination of the therapy.

Conclusion

Combination of 20% TCA peel with topical 5% ascorbic acid is a highly effective, safe and promising therapeutic option in treatment of melasma which significantly improves the QoL.

Diosmin/essential oil combination for dermal photo-protection using a lipoid colloidal carrier

Solar irradiation induces skin inflammatory processes causing deleterious effects like premature ageing. In this study, the designed lipoid colloidal carrier (LCC) was loaded with Diosmin in combination with different essential oils, to be used as a topical photo-protective preparation. To investigate the ability of the essential oils to potentiate Diosmin effects, the Diosmin/essential oil-loaded LCCs (LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4) were compared to the Diosmin-loaded LCC (LCC1). The incorporated essential oils were those of Rosmarinus officinalis, Zingiber officinale or Vitis vinifera in LCC2, LCC3 and LCC4, respectively. All the LCCs had particle size (PS) values ranging from 121.1 to 144.3nm with uniform distribution and, zeta potential (Z) values around 30mV. Also, they all had high drug encapsulation efficiencies. LCC1 had the lowest anti-oxidant and in-vitro sun-blocking effect (p<0.05). In-vivo photo-protective studies showed that all the formulated LCCs had a skin protective effect when compared to the positive control (p<0.05); however LCC1 had the lowest anti-erythemal and anti-wrinkling effect. Histological studies proved the efficacy of the designed LCCs as skin anti-photoageing, with LCC1 showing the lowest anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkling effect, while LCC2 had the highest anti-wrinkling effect. These results indicated that the suggested Diosmin/essential oil combinations improved the anti-oxidant, sun-blocking and anti-photoageing effects of Diosmin. After one year of storage, the LCCs showed satisfactory physical stability. This study presents the designed LCCs as safe and effective nano-structured dermal care products containing 'all-natural' components.

Clinical efficacy and safety of 20% glycolic peel, 15% lactic peel, and topical 20% vitamin C in constitutional type of periorbital melanosis: a comparative study

INTRODUCTION

Periorbital Melanosis (POM) is a very common esthetic condition, yet there is no definite treatment modality. Topical therapy is the mainstay of treatment which includes chemical peels, vitamin C, and other depigmenting agents.

OBJECTIVE

To compare clinical efficacy, safety, and tolerability of 20% glycolic acid peels, 15% lactic acid peels, and topical 20% vitamin C in treatment of constitutional type of POM in Indian patients.

METHOD

Ninety patients of constitutional POM were enrolled for 12 weeks. The patients were distributed into three groups. One-third of patients underwent 3-weekly GA peel, another one-third underwent 3-weekly lactic peel, and rest applied vitamin C daily. Clinical improvement was assessed objectively using POM grading. Patient's and physicians global assessment along with patient's global tolerance was also evaluated.

RESULTS

More than 50% improvement in POM was observed in 73.34% of patients on GA peel, 56.67% on lactic peel, and 26.67% on vitamin C. On comparing improvement with respect to duration of therapy, GA peel was significantly more effective than lactic peel from 12 weeks onward, while it was more effective than vitamin C from 6 weeks onward. Lactic peel was more effective than vitamin C from 6 weeks onward. Physician and patient global assessment was excellent with glycolic peel followed by lactic peel and vitamin C. The incidence of adverse effect was maximum with GA peel followed by lactic peel and vitamin C.

CONCLUSION

Glycolic peel was best among the three modalities, although it was associated with increased rate of side effects.

In vitro and in vivo effects of lutein against cisplatin-induced ototoxicity

INTRODUCTION

Cisplatin is a commonly prescribed drug that produces ototoxicity as a side effect. Lutein is a carotenoid with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties previously tested for eye, heart and skin diseases but not evaluated to date in ear diseases.

AIM

To evaluate the protective effects of lutein on HEI-OC1 auditory cell line and in a Wistar rat model of cisplatin ototoxicity.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In vitro study: Culture HEI-OC1 cells were exposed to lutein (2.5-100 μM) and to 25 μM cisplatin for 24h. In vivo study: Twenty eight female Wistar rats were randomized into three groups. Group A (n=8) received intratympanic lutein (0.03 mL) (1mg/mL) in the right ear and saline solution in the left one to determine the toxicity of lutein. Group B (n=8) received also intraperitoneal cisplatin (10mg/kg) to test the efficacy of lutein against cisplatin ototoxicity. Group C (n=12) received intratympanic lutein (0.03 mL) (1mg/mL) to quantify lutein in cochlear fluids (30 min, 1h and 5 days after treatment). Hearing function was evaluated by means of Auditory Steady-State Responses before the procedure and 5 days after (groups A and B). Morphological changes were studied by confocal laser scanning microscopy.

RESULTS

In vitro study: Lutein significantly reduced the cisplatin-induced cytotoxicity in the HEI-OC1 cells when they were pre-treated with lutein concentrations of 60 and 80 μM. In vivo study: Intratympanic lutein (1mg/mL) application showed no ototoxic effects. However it did not achieve protective effect against cisplatin-induced ototoxicity in Wistar rats.

CONCLUSIONS

Although lutein has shown beneficial effects in other pathologies, the present study only obtained protection against cisplatin ototoxicity in culture cells, but not in the in vivo model. The large molecule size, the low dose administered, and restriction to diffusion in the inner ear could account for this negative result.

Attenuation of ultraviolet A-induced alterations in NIH3T3 dermal fibroblasts by melatonin

BACKGROUND

Sun exposure is responsible for long-term clinical skin changes such as photoageing, photodamage and photocancers. Ultraviolet (UV)A wavelengths stimulate the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that may contribute to photoageing. To protect against oxidative stress, skin cells have developed several defence systems, including ROS and metal ion scavengers and a battery of detoxifying, haem-degrading and repair enzymes. Melatonin's antioxidant activity is the result of three different but complementary actions: (i) a direct action due to its ability to act as a free radical scavenger; (ii) an indirect action that is a consequence of melatonin's ability to reduce free radical generation (radical avoidance); and (iii) its ability to upregulate antioxidant enzymes.

OBJECTIVES

In this study, we focused our attention on the prevention of photodamage, choosing melatonin as an antioxidant agent.

METHODS

In the present study we analysed the effects of pretreatment of murine fibroblasts cells (NIH3T3) with melatonin (1 mmol L(-1) ) followed by UVA irradiation (15 J cm(-2) ). Thereafter, changes in components of the extracellular matrix and in some antioxidant enzymes (inducible and constitutive haem oxygenase) were evaluated.

RESULTS

We observed that UVA radiation caused altered expression of extracellular matrix proteins and induced the expression of inducible haem oxygenase. This increase was not sufficient to protect the cells from damage. Instead, melatonin pretreatment led to increased expression of haem-degrading enzymes and suppression of UVA-induced photodamage.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that melatonin, as a modifier of the dermatoendocrine system, may have utility in reducing the effects of skin ageing.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Combined topical application of lotus and green tea improves facial skin surface parameters

No study has yet determined the anti-wrinkle efficacy of green tea plus lotus in Asian subjects using skin image analysis technique. In this study, the efficacy of two cosmetic active formulations intended for the treatment of facial wrinkles (green tea and lotus extract) has been evaluated in healthy subjects using a non-invasive device, the Visioscan(®) VC, and software for surface evaluation of living skin (SELS). Thirty-three healthy Asian subjects, all men, were enrolled after consent in a placebo-controlled comparative study with a split face design. One group applied multiple emulsions with green tea. The second group applied multiple emulsions with lotus extract, while a third group applied a multiple emulsion with a combination of both extracts. In all three groups, active formulations were applied to one side of the face and the placebo to the other side, once daily over the 60-day treatment course. Non-invasive measurements were performed at baseline and on days 30 and 60. Interesting and significant improvements were observed for the treatment effects on skin roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), smoothness (SEsm), and wrinkling (SEw). For example, a 49.99% improvement in skin smoothness (SEsm) from baseline value and -23.22% and perfection in facial wrinkles (SEw) substantiated that combined treatment is superior over single treatments. Green tea and lotus combined in multiple emulsions brought a superior synergistic anti-aging effect. We conclude that diverse anti-oxidant constituents in both plants have a potential influence on skin surface parameters, thus indicating these plants as the future of new anti-aging products.

Skin and antioxidants

It is estimated that total sun exposure occurs non-intentionally in three quarters of our lifetimes. Our skin is exposed to majority of UV radiation during outdoor activities, e.g. walking, practicing sports, running, hiking, etc. and not when we are intentionally exposed to the sun on the beach. We rarely use sunscreens during those activities, or at least not as much and as regular as we should and are commonly prone to acute and chronic sun damage of the skin. The only protection of our skin is endogenous (synthesis of melanin and enzymatic antioxidants) and exogenous (antioxidants, which we consume from the food, like vitamins A, C, E, etc.). UV-induced photoaging of the skin becomes clinically evident with age, when endogenous antioxidative mechanisms and repair processes are not effective any more and actinic damage to the skin prevails. At this point it would be reasonable to ingest additional antioxidants and/or to apply them on the skin in topical preparations. We review endogenous and exogenous skin protection with antioxidants.

Oral administration of French maritime pine bark extract (Flavangenol(®)) improves clinical symptoms in photoaged facial skin

BACKGROUND

French maritime pine bark extract (PBE) has gained popularity as a dietary supplement in the treatment of various diseases due to its polyphenol-rich ingredients. Oligometric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), a class of bioflavonoid complexes, are enriched in French maritime PBE and have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Previous studies have suggested that French maritime PBE helps reduce ultraviolet radiation damage to the skin and may protect human facial skin from symptoms of photoaging. To evaluate the clinical efficacy of French maritime PBE in the improvement of photodamaged facial skin, we conducted a randomized trial of oral supplementation with PBE.

METHODS

One hundred and twelve women with mild to moderate photoaging of the skin were randomized to either a 12-week open trial regimen of 100 mg PBE supplementation once daily or to a parallel-group trial regimen of 40 mg PBE supplementation once daily.

RESULTS

A significant decrease in clinical grading of skin photoaging scores was observed in both time courses of 100 mg daily and 40 mg daily PBE supplementation regimens. A significant reduction in the pigmentation of age spots was also demonstrated utilizing skin color measurements.

CONCLUSION

Clinically significant improvement in photodamaged skin could be achieved with PBE. Our findings confirm the efficacy and safety of PBE.

Lecithin/chitosan nanoparticles for transdermal delivery of melatonin

In this study, the potential of lecithin/chitosan nanoparticles (NPs) as colloidal nanosystem for transdermal melatonin delivery was investigated. Mean diameter and zeta-potential of NPs differing in lecithin type (Lipoid S45 and S100) and chitosan content ranged between 113.7 and 331.5 nm and 4.6 and 31.2 mV, respectively. Melatonin loadings were up to 7.2%. The potential of lecithin/chitosan NPs to enhance transdermal melatonin delivery was investigated by determining the drug flux across dermatomed porcine skin and its skin deposition. Lecithin/chitosan NPs provided 1.3-2.3-fold higher flux compared to melatonin solution. The highest flux, 9.0 ± 0.21 µg/cm²/h, was observed for S45 lecithin/chitosan NPs with lecithin/chitosan weight ratio of 20:1. NP possible cytotoxicity in vitro was evaluated using human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It was demonstrated that lecithin/chitosan NPs can be applied to skin cells at concentrations up to 200 µg/mL without inducing plasma membrane damage or cell viability decrease.

Amelioration of radiation-induced skin injury by adenovirus-mediated heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) overexpression in rats

Objective

Radiation-induced skin injury remains a serious concern for radiation therapy. Heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), the rate-limiting enzyme in heme catabolism, has been reported to have potential antioxidant and anti-apoptotic properties. However, the role of HO-1 in radiation-induced skin damage remains unclear. This study aims to elucidate the effects of HO-1 on radiation-induced skin injury in rats.

Methods

A control adenovirus (Ad-EGFP) and a recombinant adenovirus (Ad-HO1-EGFP) were constructed. Rats were irradiated to the buttock skin with a single dose of 45 Gy followed by a subcutaneous injection of PBS, 5 × 10⁹ genomic copies of Ad-EGFP or Ad-HO1-EGFP (n = 8). After treatment, the skin MDA concentration, SOD activity and apoptosis were measured. The expression of antioxidant and pro-apoptotic genes was determined by RT-PCR and real-time PCR. Skin reactions were measured at regular intervals using the semi-quantitative skin injury score.

Results

Subcutaneous injection of Ad-HO1-EGFP infected both epidermal and dermal cells and could spread to the surrounding regions. Radiation exposure upregulated the transcription of the antioxidant enzyme genes, including SOD-1, GPx2 and endogenous HO-1. HO-1 overexpression decreased lipid peroxidation and inhibited the induction of ROS scavenging proteins. Moreover, HO-1 exerted an anti-apoptotic effect by suppressing FAS and FASL expression. Subcutaneous injection of Ad-HO1-EGFP demonstrated significant improvement in radiation-induced skin injury.

Conclusions

The present study provides evidences for the protective role of HO-1 in alleviating radiation-induced skin damage in rats, which is helpful for the development of therapy for radiation-induced skin injury.

Interaction between carotenoids and free radicals in human skin

Environmental factors like air pollutants, radiation of the sun and stress factors such as illness, smoking, or alcohol abuse produce free radicals in the human tissue as well as in the skin. Free radicals serve as the main cause for premature skin aging. Additionally, they also contribute towards immunosuppression and the formation of skin diseases including cancer. The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive action of free radicals by means of the antioxidant network. In the present study, the interaction of free radicals and carotenoid antioxidants in the human skin under in vivo conditions was investigated and summarized. The measurement of carotenoids in human skin was performed in vivo using resonance Raman spectroscopy.

Carotenoids in human skin

The interaction of free radicals with antioxidants is a topic of increasing interest in the development of prevention strategies against skin ageing. Carotenoids can serve as marker substances for the complete antioxidative network of human skin. Recently, it has become possible to measure the carotenoids non-invasively and online using resonance Raman spectroscopy. This method has been used in various studies to investigate the interaction of carotenoid antioxidants and free radicals in human skin. In this review, the results of the selected studies are summarized and compared. It could be demonstrated that the carotenoid concentration of the skin reflects the lifestyle of individuals. A high level of carotenoids can be achieved with a healthy diet rich, for instance, in fruit and vegetables. Stress factors such as illness, UV and IR radiation of the sun, and smoking and alcohol consumption reduce the concentration of the carotenoids in the skin. It could be demonstrated that premature skin ageing was less in people with a high level of antioxidants in their tissue. Consequently, the furrows and wrinkles were not so deep and dense as in the skin of individuals with a low antioxidant level. The measurements are highly suited for the development of anti-ageing strategies and can be efficiently used in the medical diagnostics and therapy control.

Kinetics of carotenoid distribution in human skin in vivo after exogenous stress: disinfectant and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion recovers from outside to inside

The human organism has developed a protection system against the destructive effect of free radicals. The aim of the present study was to investigate the extent of exogenous stress factors such as disinfectant and IR-A radiation on the skin, and their influence on the kinetics of carotenoids distribution during the recovery process. Ten healthy volunteers were assessed with resonance spectroscopy using an Argon-laser at 488 nm to excite the carotenoids in vivo. Additionally, Raman-confocal-micro-spectroscopy measurements were performed using a model 3510 Skin Composition Analyzer with spatially resolved measurements down to 30 μm. The measurements were performed at a baseline of 20, 40, 60, and 120 min after an external stressor consisting either of water-filtered infrared A (wIRA) with 150 mW∕cm(2) or 1 ml∕cm(2) of an alcoholic disinfectant. Both Raman methods were capable to detect the infrared-induced depletion of carotenoids. Only Raman-microspectroscopy could reveal the carotenoids decrease after topical disinfectant application. The carotenoid-depletion started at the surface. After 60 min, recovery starts at the surface while deeper parts were still depleted. The disinfectant- and wIRA-induced carotenoid depletion in the epidermis recovers from outside to inside and probably delivered by sweat and sebaceous glands. We could show that the Raman microscopic spectroscopy is suited to analyze the carotenoid kinetic of stress effects and recovery.

The role of phytonutrients in skin health

Photodamage is known to occur in skin with exposure to sunlight, specifically ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Such damage includes inflammation, oxidative stress, breakdown of the extracellular matrix, and development of cancer in the skin. Sun exposure is considered to be one of the most important risk factors for both nonmelanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Many phytonutrients have shown promise as photoprotectants in clinical, animal and cell culture studies. In part, the actions of these phytonutrients are thought to be through their actions as antioxidants. In regard to skin health, phytonutrients of interest include vitamin E, certain flavonoids, and the carotenoids, β-carotene, lycopene and lutein.

An interlaboratory comparison of methods used to assess antioxidant potentials

Many analytical methods are used to measure the antioxidative activity of substances yet little is known about the comparability of the test results between laboratories. After an initial evaluation of a broad range of methods conducted by one laboratory, the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, the trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) assay, the lipid assay (or 2,2'-azobis(2-aminepropane) (ABAP) assay) and the thiobarbituric acid (TBA) assay were selected to be evaluated in the interlaboratory study. The antioxidative potentials of trolox, tocopherol, lipochroman-6, ascorbic acid, 4-methyl-brenzcatechin, and/or 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxytoluene (BHT) were assessed using each of the methods. These methods were then evaluated in respect of their reproducibility and classification properties. Based on the results of this study, the DPPH assay followed by the TEAC assay yielded the best results based on reproducibility and sensitivity both within one laboratory and between laboratories. The results of the interlaboratory study were then compared with the single center results obtained from the commercially available photochemolumiescence (PCL) kit. To assess the transferability of chemical data to biological systems, they were also compared with the single center results obtained using the cell-based Dichlorodihydrofluoresceine (DCFH) assay.

Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation - a review

Inflammation and the resulting accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in the intrinsic and photoaging of human skin in vivo. Environmental insults such as ultraviolet (UV) rays from sun, cigarette smoke exposure and pollutants, and the natural process of aging contribute to the generation of free radicals and ROS that stimulate the inflammatory process in the skin. UV irradiation initiates and activates a complex cascade of biochemical reactions in human skin. In short, UV causes depletion of cellular antioxidants and antioxidant enzymes (SOD, catalase), initiates DNA damage leading to the formation of thymidine dimmers, activates the neuroendocrine system leading to immunosuppression and release of neuroendocrine mediators, and causes increased synthesis and release of pro-inflammatory mediators from a variety of skin cells. The pro-inflammatory mediators increase the permeability of capillaries leading to infiltration and activation of neutrophils and other phagocytic cells into the skin. The net result of all these effects is inflammation and free radical generation (both reactive oxygen and nitrogen species). Furthermore, elastsases and other proteases (cathepsin G) released from neutrophils cause further inflammation, and activation of matrix metalloproteases. The inflammation further activates the transcription of various matrixes degrading metalloproteases, leading to abnormal matrix degradation and accumulation of non-functional matrix components. In addition, the inflammation and ROS cause oxidative damage to cellular proteins, lipids and carbohydrates, which accumulates in the dermal and epidermal compartments, contributing to the aetiology of photoaging. Strategies to prevent photodamage caused by this cascade of reactions initiated by UV include: prevention of UV penetration into skin by physical and chemical sunscreens, prevention/reduction of inflammation using anti-inflammatory compounds (e.g. cyclooxygenase inhibitors, inhibitors of cytokine generation); scavenging and quenching of ROS by antioxidants; inhibition of neutrophil elastase activity to prevent extracellular matrix damage and activation of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs), and inhibition of MMP expression (e.g. by retinoids) and activity (e.g. by natural and synthetic inhibitors).

Resonance Raman spectroscopy as an effective tool for the determination of antioxidative stability of cosmetic formulations

Carotenoids beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene and others are well-known powerful antioxidants acting as an effective neutralizer of free radicals produced in the human organism as a result of the influence of stress factors, such as UV irradiation. The protective effect of antioxidants is used in cosmetic products to increase the skin protection against the destructive action of free radicals and for the stabilization of formulations against oxidation. In the skin, the different antioxidant substances form protection chains to avoid their destruction by the interaction with the free radicals. Similar effects have to be expected also in topically applied formulations. In the present study the influence of different mixtures of antioxidants (beta-carotene, vitamins C and E) on the stability of antioxidants in formulations used for skin treatment was investigated. The measurements were carried out by using non-invasive resonance Raman spectroscopy for the detection of the carotenoid concentration in the cosmetic formulations.

The cosmetic treatment of wrinkles

Wrinkles now have a greater social impact because people live longer. Science and hedonism overlap in the search for causes, treatments and prevention of wrinkles. The cosmetic approach to wrinkles includes: i Cleansing ii Photoprotection iii Active ingredients Active ingredients go well beyond simple moisturisers and exert a more complex activity in protecting skin from external injuries, nourishing it and removing its superficial layers. Transport systems and excipients are increasingly effective. Functional agents currently include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), poly-AHAs, complex poly-AHAs, retinoids, fish polysaccharides, anti-enzymatic agents, antioxidants (including ascorbic acid, pycnogenol, ursolic acid, vegetable isoflavones, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, lipoic acid, resveratorol, l-carnosine and taurine) as well as agaricic acid and various plant extracts. All are reviewed in this text. Most are topical, some can be given by mouth, even as food supplements. Cosmetics are becoming closer to drugs in preventing and treating wrinkles. Included amongst the cosmeceuticals are the anti-wrinkle agents described herein.