Editorial: Wearable Sensor Technology for Monitoring Training Load and Health in the Athletic Population

Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Introduction

Climbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.

Methods

This systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.

Results

Out of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a "crimp" grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.

Discussion

This review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.

Systematic Review Registration

https://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

The proportional distribution of training by elite endurance athletes at different intensities during different phases of the season

The present review examines retrospective analyses of training intensity distribution (TID), i.e., the proportion of training at moderate (Zone 1, Z1), heavy (Z2) and severe (Z3) intensity by elite-to-world-class endurance athletes during different phases of the season. In addition, we discuss potential implications of our findings for research in this field, as well as for training by these athletes. Altogether, we included 175 TIDs, of which 120 quantified exercise intensity on the basis of heart rate and measured time-in-zone or employed variations of the session goal approach, with demarcation of zones of exercise intensity based on physiological parameters. Notably, 49% of the TIDs were single-case studies, predominantly concerning cross-country skiing and/or the biathlon. Eighty-nine TIDs were pyramidal (Z1 > Z2 > Z3), 65 polarized (Z1 > Z3 > Z2) and 8 "threshold" (Z2 > Z1 = Z3). However, these relative numbers varied between sports and the particular phases of the season. In 91% (n = 160) of the TIDs >60% of the endurance exercise was of low intensity. Regardless of the approach to quantification or phase of the season, cyclists and swimmers were found to perform a lower proportion of exercise in Z1 (<72%) and higher proportion in Z2 (>16%) than athletes involved in the triathlon, speed skating, rowing, running, cross-country skiing or biathlon (>80% in Z1 and <12% in Z2 in all these cases). For most of the athletes their proportion of heavy-to-severe exercise was higher during the period of competition than during the preparatory phase, although with considerable variability between sports. In conclusion, the existing literature in this area does not allow general conclusions to be drawn. The methods utilized for quantification vary widely and, moreover, contextual information concerning the mode of exercise, environmental conditions, and biomechanical aspects of the exercise is often lacking. Therefore, we recommend a more comprehensive approach in connection with future investigations on the TIDs of athletes involved in different endurance sports.

Monitoring Resistance Training in Real Time with Wearable Technology: Current Applications and Future Directions

Resistance training is an exercise modality that involves using weights or resistance to strengthen and tone muscles. It has become popular in recent years, with numerous people including it in their fitness routines to ameliorate their strength, muscle mass, and overall health. Still, resistance training can be complex, requiring careful planning and execution to avoid injury and achieve satisfactory results. Wearable technology has emerged as a promising tool for resistance training, as it allows monitoring and adjusting training programs in real time. Several wearable devices are currently available, such as smart watches, fitness trackers, and other sensors that can yield detailed physiological and biomechanical information. In resistance training research, this information can be used to assess the effectiveness of training programs and identify areas for improvement. Wearable technology has the potential to revolutionize resistance training research, providing new insights and opportunities for developing optimized training programs. This review examines the types of wearables commonly used in resistance training research, their applications in monitoring and optimizing training programs, and the potential limitations and challenges associated with their use. Finally, it discusses future research directions, including the development of advanced wearable technologies and the integration of artificial intelligence in resistance training research.

Efficiency in Kinesiology: Innovative Approaches in Enhancing Motor Skills for Athletic Performance

The inaugural edition of the Special Issue titled "Efficiency in Kinesiology: Innovative approaches in enhancing motor skills for Athletic Performance" has been effectively concluded [...].

Are Activity Wrist-Worn Devices Accurate for Determining Heart Rate during Intense Exercise?

The market for wrist-worn devices is growing at previously unheard-of speeds. A consequence of their fast commercialization is a lack of adequate studies testing their accuracy on varied populations and pursuits. To provide an understanding of wearable sensors for sports medicine, the present study examined heart rate (HR) measurements of four popular wrist-worn devices, the (Fitbit Charge (FB), Apple Watch (AW), Tomtom runner Cardio (TT), and Samsung G2 (G2)), and compared them with gold standard measurements derived by continuous electrocardiogram examination (ECG). Eight athletes participated in a comparative study undergoing maximal stress testing on a cycle ergometer or a treadmill. We analyzed 1,286 simultaneous HR data pairs between the tested devices and the ECG. The four devices were reasonably accurate at the lowest activity level. However, at higher levels of exercise intensity the FB and G2 tended to underestimate HR values during intense physical effort, while the TT and AW devices were fairly reliable. Our results suggest that HR estimations should be considered cautiously at specific intensities. Indeed, an effective intervention is required to register accurate HR readings at high-intensity levels (above 150 bpm). It is important to consider that even though none of these devices are certified or sold as medical or safety devices, researchers must nonetheless evaluate wrist-worn wearable technology in order to fully understand how HR affects psychological and physical health, especially under conditions of more intense exercise.

Relationships between RPE-derived internal training load parameters and GPS-based external training load variables in elite young soccer players

This study aimed to identify the GPS-based external training load variables that influence the internal training loads (RPE-derived parameters: RPE and session RPE - sRPE), and generate a model to predict GPS-based external load variables from RPE and perceived wellness values. Training load data for 21 elite young players were collected over 72 training sessions and 23 matches from the same competitive season, and 564 observations (training sessions, 462; matches, 102) were analysed. Considering all observations (training sessions and matches), significant moderate and large correlations (p < 0.01) were detected between RPE values and EL measures. The correlation between the GPS outcomes with both the RPE and sRPE values was higher during training sessions than during matches. Moreover, increased RPE and perceived wellness measures had a significant positive effect on external load variables (p < 0.001). The present work provides preliminary evidence of the utility of the RPE and sRPE method to quantify the training loads in young soccer players since most of the GPS-based EL indicators were moderate to highly correlated with the RPE-derived parameters. Additionally, EL variables may be estimated when combining perceived IL and subjective wellness indicators in young soccer players.

Clinician Impact on Athlete Recovery and Readiness in a 24-Hour Training Cycle

This paper explores a 24-hr training cycle and how clinicians contribute to an athlete’s transition from recovery to readiness. The cycle is divided into three phases: immediate, intermediate, and extended. Phase break down is meant to provide wellness prioritization for the athlete and how the clinician can facilitate sustainable performance during a competitive season.

A Dynamic Light-Weight Symmetric Encryption Algorithm for Secure Data Transmission via BLE Beacons

Pervasive sensing with Body Sensor Networks (BSNs) is a promising technology for continuous health monitoring. Since the sensor nodes are resource-limited, on-node processing and advertisement of digested information via BLE beacon is a promising technique that can enable a node gateway to communicate with more sensor nodes and extend the sensor node’s lifetime before requiring recharging. This study proposes a Dynamic Light-weight Symmetric (DLS) encryption algorithm designed and developed to address the challenges in data protection and real-time secure data transmission via message advertisement. The algorithm uses a unique temporal encryption key to encrypt each transmitting packet with a simple function such as XOR. With small additional overhead on computational resources, DLS can significantly enhance security over existing baseline encryption algorithms. To evaluate its performance, the algorithm was utilized on beacon data encryption over advertising channels. The experiments demonstrated the use of the DLS encryption algorithm on top of various light-weight symmetric encryption algorithms (i.e., TEA, XTEA, PRESENT) and a MD5 hash function. The experimental results show that DLS can achieve acceptable results for avalanche effect, key sensitivity, and randomness in ciphertexts with a marginal increase in the resource usage. The proposed DLS encryption algorithm is suitable for implementation at the application layer, is light and energy efficient, reduces/removes the need for secret key exchange between sensor nodes and the server, is applicable to dynamic message size, and also protects against attacks such as known plaintext attack, brute-force attack, replaying attack, and differential attack.

Objective assessment of fast bowling delivery intensity in amateur male cricketers

Wearable microtechnology is effective in detecting fast deliveries in cricket, however methods to quantify delivery intensity have not been established. This study aimed to investigate the utility of wearable sensors in quantifying cricket fast bowling intensity.Fifteen sub-elite male fast bowlers performed deliveries at warm-up, match, and maximal intensities. A principal component analysis resulted in the selection of perceived exertion and seven variables of bowling exertion derived from trunk- (PlayerLoad™, trunk flexion velocity, trunk forward rotation velocity) and tibia-mounted (tibial acceleration at back foot contact, front foot contact, back foot re-contact and front foot re-contact) inertial measurement units for further analysis. Repeated measures ANOVAs were used to investigate the effect of intensity on outcome variables. Significant main effects of intensity and large effect sizes were identified for all variables (p < .05, n_p² > 0.14). Measures from the match and maximal conditions were significantly larger compared with the warm-up condition (P_holm < .05). No differences were observed between the match and maximal conditions (p > .05). Inertial measurement metrics can distinguish between a warm-up effort and both match and maximal fast bowling delivery intensity. These devices provide a unique, time-efficient approach to cricket fast bowling exertion quantification.

Sensing Systems for Respiration Monitoring: A Technical Systematic Review

Respiratory monitoring is essential in sleep studies, sport training, patient monitoring, or health at work, among other applications. This paper presents a comprehensive systematic review of respiration sensing systems. After several systematic searches in scientific repositories, the 198 most relevant papers in this field were analyzed in detail. Different items were examined: sensing technique and sensor, respiration parameter, sensor location and size, general system setup, communication protocol, processing station, energy autonomy and power consumption, sensor validation, processing algorithm, performance evaluation, and analysis software. As a result, several trends and the remaining research challenges of respiration sensors were identified. Long-term evaluations and usability tests should be performed. Researchers designed custom experiments to validate the sensing systems, making it difficult to compare results. Therefore, another challenge is to have a common validation framework to fairly compare sensor performance. The implementation of energy-saving strategies, the incorporation of energy harvesting techniques, the calculation of volume parameters of breathing, or the effective integration of respiration sensors into clothing are other remaining research efforts. Addressing these and other challenges outlined in the paper is a required step to obtain a feasible, robust, affordable, and unobtrusive respiration sensing system.

Using Accelerometry for Evaluating Energy Consumption and Running Intensity Distribution Throughout a Marathon According to Sex

The proportion of females participating in long-distance races has been increasing in the last years. Although it is well-known that there are differences in how females and males face a marathon, higher research may be done to fully understand the intrinsic and extrinsic factors affecting sex differences in endurance performance. In this work, we used triaxial accelerometer devices to monitor 74 males and 14 females, aged 30 to 45 years, who finished the Valencia Marathon in 2016. Moreover, marathon split times were provided by organizers. Several physiological traits and training habits were collected from each participant. Then, we evaluated several accelerometry- and pace-estimated parameters (pacing, average change of speed, energy consumption, oxygen uptake, running intensity distribution and running economy) in female and male amateur runners. In general, our results showed that females maintained a more stable pacing and ran at less demanding intensity throughout the marathon, limiting the decay of running pace in the last part of the race. In fact, females ran at 4.5% faster pace than males in the last kilometers. Besides, their running economy was higher than males (consumed nearly 19% less relative energy per distance) in the last section of the marathon. Our results may reflect well-known sex differences in physiology (i.e., muscle strength, fat metabolism, VO_2max), and in running strategy approach (i.e., females run at a more conservative intensity level in the first part of the marathon compared to males). The use of accelerometer devices allows coaches and scientific community to constantly monitor a runner throughout the marathon, as well as during training sessions.