Novel Quercetin Derivative of 3,7-Dioleylquercetin Shows Less Toxicity and Highly Potent Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity

Exploring the use of niosomes in cosmetics for efficient dermal drug delivery

Dermal drug delivery has emerged as a promising alternative to traditional methods of drug administration due to its non-invasive nature and ease of use. However, the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, presents a significant barrier to drug penetration. Niosomes, self-assembled vesicular structures composed of nonionic surfactants and cholesterol, have been extensively investigated as a means of overcoming this barrier and improving the efficacy of dermal drug delivery. This review summarizes the current state of research on the use of niosomes in dermal drug delivery in cosmetics, with a particular focus on their formulation, characterization, and application in the delivery of various drug classes. The review highlights the advantages of niosomes over conventional drug delivery methods, including improved solubility and stability of drugs, controlled release, and enhanced skin permeation. The review also discusses the challenges associated with niosome-based drug delivery, such as their complex formulation and optimization, and the need for further studies on their long-term safety and toxicity.

Heterocyclic Compounds as Synthetic Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Recent Advances

Tyrosinase is a copper-containing enzyme which is widely distributed in nature (e.g., bacteria, mammals, fungi) and involved in two consecutive steps of melanin biosynthesis. In humans, an excessive production of melanin can determine hyperpigmentation disorders as well as neurodegenerative processes in Parkinson's disease. The development of molecules able to inhibit the high activity of the enzyme remain a current topic in medicinal chemistry, because the inhibitors reported so far present several side effects. Heterocycle-bearing molecules are largely diffuse in this sense. Due to their importance as biologically active compounds, we decided to report a comprehensive review of synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors possessing heterocyclic moieties reported within the last five years. For the reader's convenience, we classified them as inhibitors of mushroom tyrosinase (Agaricus bisporus) and human tyrosinase.

Ethyl Gallate Isolated from Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii Branches Inhibits Melanogenesis and Promotes Autophagy in B16F10 Cells

The Castanopsis cuspidata var. sieboldii (CCS) plant grows predominantly in temperate regions of Asian countries, such as South Korea. Research on CCS has so far concentrated on the nutritional analysis, antioxidant activity, and anti-inflammation properties of its branches. However, the isolation of compounds and structural elucidation of effective single molecules remain unexplored, necessitating further exploration of CCS branches. Therefore, this study demonstrates the antioxidant and antimelanogenic activity of a single substance of ethyl gallate (EG) isolated from CCS branch extracts. Notably, the antimelanogenic (whitening) activity of EG extracted from CCS branches remains unexplored. Tyrosinase inhibition, kinetic enzyme assays, and molecular docking studies were conducted using mushroom tyrosinase in order to examine the antioxidant mechanism and antimelanin activity of EG in B16F10 melanoma cells. Nontoxic EG concentrations were found to be below 5 µg/mL. While EG significantly reduced the levels of whitening-associated proteins, p-CREB, and p-PKA, it dose-dependently inhibited the expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and transcription factor (MITF). In addition, EG downregulated melanogenetic gene expression and activated autophagy signals. Therefore, EG extracted from CCS branches could serve as a novel functional cosmetic material with antimelanogenic and autophagy-enhancing activity.

Inhibitory Effect of Curcumin-Inspired Derivatives on Tyrosinase Activity and Melanogenesis

Tyrosinase is a well-known copper-containing metalloenzyme typically involved in the synthesis of melanin. Recently, curcumin and several synthetic derivatives have been recognized as tyrosinase inhibitors with interesting anti-melanogenic therapeutic activity. In this study, three curcumin-inspired compounds 1, 6 and 7 were prepared in yields ranging from 60 to 88 % and spectrophotometric, electrochemical, in vitro and in silico analyses were carried out. The viability of PC12 cells, a rat pheochromocytoma derived-cell line, with compounds 1, 6 and 7, showed values around 80% at 5 µM concentration. In cell proliferation assays, compounds 1, 6 and 7 did not show significant toxicity on fibroblasts nor melanoma cells up to 10 µM with viability values over 90%. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity was evaluated both by a UV-Vis spectroscopic method at two different concentrations, 0.2 and 2.0 µM, and by amperometric assay with IC₅₀ for compounds 1, 6 and 7 ranging from 11 to 24 nM. Melanin content assays on human melanoma cells were performed to test the capability of compounds to inhibit melanin biosynthesis. All compounds exerted a decrease in melanin content, with compound 7 being the most effective by showing a melanogenesis inhibition up to four times greater than arbutin at 100 µM. Moreover, the antioxidant activity of the selected inhibitors was evaluated against H₂O₂ in amperometric experiments, whereby compound 7 was about three times more effective compared to compounds 1 and 6. The tyrosinase X-ray structure of Bacterium megaterium crystal was used to carry out molecular docking studies in the presence of compounds 1, 6 and 7 in comparison with that of kojic acid and arbutin, two conventional tyrosinase inhibitors. Molecular docking of compounds 6 and 7 confirmed the high affinity of these compounds to tyrosinase protein.

Recent insights into oxidative metabolism of quercetin: catabolic profiles, degradation pathways, catalyzing metalloenzymes and molecular mechanisms

Quercetin is the most abundant polyphenolic flavonoid (flavonol subclass) in vegetal foods and medicinal plants. This dietary chemopreventive agent has drawn significant interest for its multiple beneficial health effects ("polypharmacology") largely associated with the well-documented antioxidant properties. However, controversies exist in the literature due to its dual anti-/pro-oxidant character, poor stability/bioavailability but multifaceted bioactivities, leaving much confusion as to its exact roles in vivo. Increasing evidence indicates that a prior oxidation of quercetin to generate an array of chemical diverse products with redox-active/electrophilic moieties is emerging as a new linkage to its versatile actions. The present review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the oxidative conversion of quercetin by systematically analyzing the current quercetin-related knowledge, with a particular focus on the complete spectrum of metabolite products, the enzymes involved in the catabolism and the underlying molecular mechanisms. Herein we review and compare the oxidation pathways, protein structures and catalytic patterns of the related metalloenzymes (phenol oxidases, heme enzymes and specially quercetinases), aiming for a deeper mechanistic understanding of the unusual biotransformation behaviors of quercetin and its seemingly controversial biological functions.

Nomilin from Yuzu Seed Has In Vitro Antioxidant Activity and Downregulates Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells through the PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

Yuzu (Citrus junos) is a citrus plant native to Asian countries, including Korea, Japan, and China. Yuzu peel and seed contain abundant vitamin C, citric acid, and polyphenols. Although the antioxidative and antimelanogenic activities of other citrus fruits and yuzu extract have been reported, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the limonoid aglycone contained in yuzu seed extract is unknown. We separated yuzu seeds into the husk, shell, and meal and evaluated antioxidant activity of each. The limonoid glucoside fraction of the husk identified nomilin, a novel tyrosinase inhibitor. We performed tyrosinase inhibitory activity and noncompetitive inhibition assays and docking studies to determine nomilin binding sites. Furthermore, we evaluated the antioxidative mechanism and antimelanogenic activity of nomilin in B16F10 melanoma cells. The concentration of nomilin that did not show toxicity was <100 µg/mL. Nomilin suppressed protein expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in a concentration-dependent manner. Nomilin significantly reduced the levels of p-CREB and p-PKA at the protein level and decreased the levels of skin-whitening-related factors MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 at the mRNA level in a concentration-dependent manner. Thus, nomilin from yuzu seed husk can be used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetics.

Bamboo Lignin Fractions with In Vitro Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity Downregulate Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells via PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

Cosmetic ingredients originating from natural resources have garnered considerable attention, and the demand for whitening ingredients is increasing, particularly in Asian countries. Lignin is a natural phenolic biopolymer significantly effective as a natural sunscreen, as its ultraviolet protection efficacy ranges from 250 to 400 nm. However, using different types of lignin as cosmetic ingredients is difficult owing to the heterogeneity of lignin and the lack of in vitro and in vivo safety and efficacy data. Thus, steam-exploded lignin (SEL) was prepared from bamboo, fractionated via successive organic solvent extraction, and sequentially fractionated using ethyl acetate, methanol, and acetone to investigate its potential as a natural whitening material. Gel permeation chromatography showed that the molecular weight of acetone-soluble and acetone-insoluble SEL fractions were the lowest and the highest, respectively. Monomer structures of the four lignin fractions were elucidated using 1H, 13C, and 2D heteronuclear single quantum coherence nuclear magnetic resonance and pyrolysis gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. The antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activities of the four fractions were compared. The methanol-soluble SEL fraction (SEL-F2) showed the highest antioxidant activity (except 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging activity), and the enzyme inhibition kinetics were confirmed. In this study, the expression pattern of the anti-melanogenic-related proteins by SEL-F2 was confirmed for the first time via the protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP-response element-binding (CREB) protein signaling pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells. Thus, SEL may serve as a valuable cosmetic whitening ingredient.

Structure and inhibition mechanism of some synthetic compounds and phenolic derivatives as tyrosinase inhibitors: review and new insight

Safety concerns are the primary consideration to identify and detection of enzyme inhibitors. In this regard, safe and potent tyrosinase inhibitors play important role in enhancing nutritional quality, health promotion and also prevent further damages. The present review focuses on the recent and efficient tyrosinase inhibitors discovered from both synthetic sources and synthesized phenolic compounds, including flavonoid, carvacrol, thymol, cinnamic acid and resorcinol derivatives. The inhibitory activity of these compounds was analyzed according to chemical structure, IC₅₀, K_i and their binding energy. Further, inhibition mechanism and the biological effects of some these inhibitors with potential application in food, agricultural, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries were briefly discussed. Molecular docking procedure was performed on some derivatives and demonstrated favorable binding affinity with amino acid residues of mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID: 2Y9X). The information offered showed that the substitution pattern of hydroxyl groups at the phenyl ring is an important factor of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The results confirmed that understanding structural modification of inhibitors is a key role in finding novel and efficacious tyrosinase inhibitors.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Evaluation of quercetin omega-6 and -9 esters on activity and structure of mushroom tyrosinase: Spectroscopic and molecular docking studies

Quercetin is one of the most ubiquitous dietary flavonoids widely distributed in plants and foods of plant origin, and is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. Quercetin fatty esters could lead to an improve in quercetin lipophilicity which could positively affect its pharmacological activity. In this study, the inhibitory effect of two novel esters of quercetin-linoleic acid (ligand A) and quercetin-oleic acid (ligand B) has been investigated on structure and diphenolase activity of mushroom tyrosinase (MT) by experimental and molecular docking techniques. The inhibitory kinetics study using UV-visible spectrophotometry in the presence of its substrate 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-dopa), revealed that both esters successfully inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and reduce the formation of dopaquinone. Results showed that the binding of ligands to MT induced rearrangement and conformational changes of the enzyme. Thermodynamic parameters of these interactions (K_a , ∆G°, ∆H° and ∆S°) were obtained at pH = 6.8 and temperatures of 298 and 310 K. Molecular docking studies further was applied to calculation of binding energies (ΔG_bA  = -21.84 kJ/mol, ΔG_bB  = -20.92 kJ/mol), inhibition constant values (K_IA  = 160 µM, K_IB  = 220 µM) and the special binding site. It can be deduced that ligands act as a potential tyrosinase inhibitor and it was found that the best possible interaction condition with binding modes visualize was achieved by ligand A and exhibited the potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity. These findings may be helpful to understand the inhibition mechanism of quercetin fatty acids esters on tyrosinase and provide a convenient screening method to differentiate phenolic tyrosinase inhibitors. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: Bioavailability and antioxidant activity of conjugated fatty acids with their bioequivalence in several biological effects and metabolic processes such as beta-oxidation from various forms has been reported to be highly variable and useful. Quercetin shows beneficial role in human health, but its biological effects in vivo is limited by poor bioavailability, low skin permeability and solubility. This study design new tyrosinase inhibitors which helpful to functional research of unsaturated fatty acid esters in the treatment of inflammatory diseases and hyperpigmentation disorders. In addition, undesirable enzymatic browning of plant derived-foods by tyrosinase causes a decrease in market value and economic loss of food products. The results suggest that the conjugation of quercetin with linoleic and oleic acids resulted in novel stronger tyrosinase inhibitors which may have therapeutic applications and replacement of toxic tyrosinase inhibitors and contribute as anti- browning agents in food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Antioxidant and Anti-Melanogenic Activities of Heat-Treated Licorice (Wongam, Glycyrrhiza glabra × G. uralensis) Extract

Melanin is a brown or black pigment that protects skin from ultraviolet radiation and reactive oxygen species (ROS). However, overproduction of melanin is associated with lentigines, melasma, freckles and skin cancer. Licorice has shown antioxidant, anti-tumor, anti-platelet, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities and is used as a natural treatment for skin whitening. We aimed to confirm the potential of Wongam, a new cultivar of licorice developed by the Rural Development Administration (RDA), as a whitening agent in cosmetics. In addition, we verified the effect of heat treatment on the bioactivity of licorice by comparing antioxidant and anti-melanogenic activities of licorice extract before and after heating (130 °C). The heat-treated licorice extract (WH-130) showed higher radical-scavenging activities in the ABTS⁺ (2,2′-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) assays. In addition, WH-130 inhibited melanogenesis more effectively due to downregulation of tyrosinase in B16F10 melanoma cells than non-heated licorice extract. Moreover, heat treatment increased total phenolic content. In particular, isoliquiritigenin, an antioxidant and anti-melanogenic compound of licorice, was produced by heat treatment. In conclusion, WH-130, with increased levels of bioactive phenolics such as isoliquiritigenin, has potential for development into a novel skin whitening material with applications in cosmetics.

Antimelanogenesis Effects of Leaf Extract and Phytochemicals from Ceylon Olive (Elaeocarpus serratus) in Zebrafish Model

The melanogenesis inhibition effect in zebrafish (Danio rerio) and antityrosinase activity of the ethanolic extract and its phytochemicals from Ceylon olive (Elaeocarpus serratus Linn.) leaves were investigated in this study. Among the leaf extract and four soluble fractions, the ethyl acetate soluble fraction exhibits the best antityrosinase and antimelanogenesis activities. One phenolic acid, gallic acid, and two flavonoids, myricetin and mearnsetin, are isolated from the active subfractions through the bioassay-guided isolation; their structures are elucidated based on the 1D and 2D NMR, FTIR, UV, and MS spectroscopic analyses. These compounds have significant antityrosinase activity whether using l-tyrosine or l-DOPA as the substrate; mearnsetin shows the optimal activity. In the enzyme kinetic investigation, both gallic acid and mearnsetin are the competitive-type inhibitors against mushroom tyrosinase, and myricetin acts as a mixed-type tyrosinase inhibitor. Leaf extract and an ethyl acetate soluble fraction show effective performance in the inhibition of melanin formation in zebrafish embryos. Mearnsetin also possesses a promising antimelanogenesis effect, which is superior to the positive control, arbutin. Results reveal that the Ceylon olive leaf extract and its phytochemicals, especially mearnsetin, have the potential to be used as antimelanogenesis and skin-whitening ingredients.