The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies

This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.

Capsicum annuum Oleoresin Nanoemulgel - Design Characterization and In vitro Investigation of Anticancer and Antimicrobial Activities

BACKGROUND

The use of naturally occurring bioactive materials is getting great attention owing to their safety and environmental properties. Oily compounds, known as oleoresins, are expected to provide an important source for the natural products industry aiming to develop novel treatments for skin conditions. In this work, Capsicum annuum oleoresin nanoemulgel formulations have been prepared and investigated for their antibacterial and anticancer properties.

METHODOLOGY

Several C. annuum oleoresin nanoemulgel formulations were prepared by incorporating a Carbopol 940 gel in a self-nanoemulsifying nanoemulsion consisting of C. annuum, tween 80, and span 80. The systems were characterized for particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, and rheology. The in vitro antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities of the optimum formulation were evaluated.

RESULTS

The selected formulation is composed of 40% tween, 10% span 80, and 40% C. annuum oleoresin. This formulation produced a stable nanoemulsion with a narrow PDI value of 0.179 ± 0.08 and a droplet size of 104.0 ± 2.6 nm. Results of the in vitro antimicrobial studies indicated high potency of the systems against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) (zone of inhibition of 29 ± 1.9 mm), E. coli (33 ± 0.9 mm), K. pneumonia (30 ± 1.4 mm), and C. albicans (21 ± 1.5 mm), as compared to the reference antibiotic, ampicillin (18 ± 1.4 mm against K. pneumonia), and antifungal agent, fluconazole (12 ± 0.1 mm against C. albicans). Furthermore, cytotoxicity results, expressed as IC50 values, revealed that the oleoresin and its nanoemulgel had the best effects against the HepG2 cell line (IC50 value of 79.43 μg/mL for the nanoemulgel) and MCF7 (IC50 value of 57.54 μg/mL), and the most potent effect was found against 3T3 (IC50 value of 45.7 μg/m- L). On the other side, the system did not substantially exhibit activity against By-61 and Hela.

CONCLUSION

C. annuum oleoresin and its nanoemulgel can be considered valuable sources for the discovery of new antibacterial, antifungal, and anticancer compounds in the pharmaceutical industry, especially due to their potent activity against various cancer cell lines as well as bacterial and fungal strains.

A Compound Essential Oil Alters Stratum Corneum Structure, Potentially Promoting the Transdermal Permeation of Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Ingredients

BACKGROUND

The stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of the skin, and cosmeceuticals are different from ordinary cosmetics in that they need to deliver active ingredients targeting specific skin problems through the SC into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, we designed a compound essential oil (CEO) extracted from Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge and Cinnamomum cassia Presl, supplemented with borneol to deliver active ingredients through the SC.

METHODS

The CEO was prepared by flash extraction combined with the microwave method. Moreover, the main components of the CEO were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). Visualization techniques, such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), haematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), were used to study the permeationpromoting mechanism of the CEO on the skin. Furthermore, the permeation-promoting effects of the CEO on both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients were tested via in vitro skin penetration experiments and in vivo microdialysis experiments.

RESULTS

The results indicated the ability of the CEO to alter the structure of the SC, leading to enhanced transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. The 1.5% CEO group demonstrated the best permeation-promoting effect compared to the other CEO groups and blank groups (P<0.05). Furthermore, the CEO displayed an expedited permeability-promoting effect on hydrophobic ingredients compared to hydrophilic ingredients.

CONCLUSION

It is concluded that the prepared CEO can promote the transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. This study will provide a reference for the application of the prepared CEO in the development of cosmeceuticals with natural efficacy.

An antioxidative, green and safe nanofibers-based film containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and Ganoderma lucidum fermentation for enhanced skincare

Dry masks made of natural active ingredients that are packaged in sustainable paper and free of irritating additives (e.g. preservatives, stabilizers) are a trend in the concept of healthy skincare, which possess the advantages of portability, safety and environmental friendliness. The bioactive ingredients obtained from natural plant fermentation are gradually becoming an important alternative additive for facial skincare. Herein, a novel dry facial healthcare mask was fabricated by electrospinning incorporating natural ingredients including pullulan (Pu), sodium hyaluronate (SH), and Ganoderma lucidum fermentation (GLF). The morphology, dissolving capacity, bioactivity, and safety of the obtained masks were investigated in vitro, and their antioxidation and moisturizing activities were verified at the cellular level. The results indicated that the fibrillary films based on pullulan could be dissolved in water within 20 s with good water retention capacity and film with high concentration of GLF (Pu/SH/GLF-3) could scavenge 79 % of DPPH. The films had good ability to resist microbial contamination and non-eye irritation via observing colony growth for 12 months after ultraviolet sterilization and the ocular irritation test of chicken chorioallantoic membrane. Meanwhile, cell experiments further confirmed that they did not exhibit cytotoxicity and could increase the expression of proteins related to moisturizing and antioxidation. The fascinating films have promising application prospects in cosmetic masks. This work may enrich the use of natural materials in skincare products and provide a green development direction for the light chemical industry.

Improved Solubility and Activity of Natural Product in Nanohydrogel

With the development of technology, natural material components are widely used in various fields of science. Natural product components in phytochemical compounds are secondary metabolites produced by plants; they have been shown to have many pharmacological activities. Phytochemical compounds obtained from plants have an important role in herbal medicine. Herbal medicine is safer and cheaper than synthetic medicine. However, herbal medicines have weaknesses, such as low solubility, less stability, low bioavailability, and experiencing physical and chemical degradation, reducing their pharmacological activity. Recent herbal nano-delivery developments are mostly plant-based. A nanotechnology-based system was developed to deliver herbal therapies with better bioavailability, namely the nanohydrogel system. Nanohydrogel is a delivery system that can overcome the disadvantages of using herbal compounds because it can increase solubility, increase pharmacological activity and bioavailability, reduce toxicity, slow delivery, increase stability, improve biodistribution, and prevent physical or chemical degradation. This review article aimed to provide an overview of recent advances in developing nanohydrogel formulations derived from natural ingredients to increase solubility and pharmacological activity, as well as a summary of the challenges faced by delivery systems based on nanohydrogel derived from natural materials. A total of 25 phytochemicals derived from natural products that have been developed into nanohydrogel were proven to increase the activity and solubility of these chemical compounds.

Multistep Approach Points to Compounds Responsible for the Biological Activity and Safety of Hydrolates from Nine Lamiaceae Medicinal Plants on Human Skin Fibroblasts

As byproducts of essential oil distillation, hydrolates are used in natural cosmetics/biomedicine due to their beneficial skin effects. However, data on their safety with relevant biological targets, such as human skin cells, are scarce. Therefore, we have tested nine hydrolates from the Lamiaceae family with skin fibroblasts that are responsible for extracellular collagenous matrix builds. Thyme, oregano, and winter savoury hydrolates showed several times higher total phenolics, which correlated strongly with their radical scavenging and antioxidative capacity; there was no correlation between their viability profiles and the reducing sugar levels. No proteins/peptides were detected. All hydrolates appeared safe for prolonged skin exposure except for 10-fold diluted lavender, which showed cytotoxicity (~20%), as well as rosemary and lavandin (~10%) using viability, DNA synthesis, and cell count testing. Clary sage, oregano, lemon balm, and thyme hydrolates (10-fold diluted) increased fibroblast viability and/or proliferation by 10-30% compared with the control, while their viability remained unaffected by Mentha and winter savoury. In line with the STITCH database, increased viability could be attributed to thymol presence in oregano and thyme hydrolates in lemon balm, which is most likely attributable to neral and geranial. The proliferative effect of clary sage could be supported by alpha-terpineol, not linalool. The major volatile organic compounds (VOCs) associated with cytotoxic effects on fibroblasts were borneol, 1,8-cineole, and terpinene-4-ol. Further research with pure compounds is warranted to confirm the roles of VOCs in the observed effects that are relevant to cosmetic and wound healing aspects.

In vitro, ex vivo, and clinical evaluation of anti-aging gel containing EPA and CBD

BACKGROUND

Skin aging manifestation, such as coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity, pigmentation, and rough-textured appearance, is a multifactorial process that can be exacerbated by air pollution, smoking, poor nutrition, and sun exposure. Exposure to UV radiation is considered the primary cause of extrinsic skin aging and accounts for about 80% of facial aging. Extrinsic skin aging signs can be reduced with demo-cosmetic formulations. Both cannabidiol (CBD) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) have been previously suggested as potent active dermatological ingredients.

AIMS

The objective of the current research was to evaluate the compatibility of both agents in the prevention and treatment of skin aging. First, the impact of both agents was assessed using standard photoaging models of UV-induced damage, both in vitro (HaCaT cells) and ex vivo (human skin organ culture). Then, a clinical validation study (n = 33) was performed using an optimized topical cream formulation tested at different time points (up to Day 56).

RESULTS

EPA was found to potentiate the protective effects of CBD by reducing the secretion of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2 ) and interleukin-8 (IL-8), two primary inflammatory agents associated with photoaging. In addition, a qualitative histological examination signaled that applying the cream may result in an increase in extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling following UV radiation. This was also evidenced clinically by a reduction of crow's feet wrinkle area and volume, as well as a reduction of fine line wrinkle volume as measured by the AEVA system. The well-established age-dependent subepidermal low-echogenic band (SLEB) was also reduced by 8.8%. Additional clinical results showed significantly reduced red spots area and count, and an increase in skin hydration and elasticity by 31.2% and 25.6% following 56 days of cream application, respectively. These impressive clinical results correlated with high satisfaction ratings by the study participants.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

Collectively, the results show a profound anti-aging impact of the developed formulation and strengthen the beneficial derm-cosmetic properties of CBD-based products.

Anti-Aging Potential of Plants of the Anak Dalam Tribe, Jambi, Indonesia

The process of skin aging is a physiological phenomenon that can not be avoided. According to global population data, the rate of aging increases by approximately 13% every year. The impact of skin aging has become a significant concern and challenge for developed countries. Consequently, there has been a search for potential new anti-aging agents. This review aims to provide an overview of the current research status of plants of the Anak Dalam Tribe (Indonesian: Suku Anak Dalam [SAD]; referred to as SAD henceforth) in Jambi Province, Indonesia, for the development of potential new anti-aging agents. One such discovery is a product derived from natural ingredients with the ability to prevent premature aging. These new anti-aging plants have been used for centuries by the Anak Dalam tribe, for treating skin diseases and maintaining skin health through traditional remedies. Recent research on herbal formulations used by the SAD community in Indonesia for skin beauty treatments, reported by Research on Medicinal Plants and Herbs or RISTOJA, indicates that 64 plant species are used for skin care. Among these plants, Toona sinensis, Curcuma heyneana, Curcuma zedoaria, Curcuma longa, and Kaempferia rotunda are the most commonly used medicinal plants with anti-aging properties. T. sinensis is a tree, while the others are herbs. T. sinensis shows the highest potential for development as an anti-aging agent, with its extracts, active fractions, and bioactive quercetin isolates known to possess strong anti-aging activities both in vitro and in vivo. Furthermore, C. heyneana, C. longa, C. zedoaria, and K. rotunda also show potential for further research, and three of them have demonstrated good potential for in vivo anti-aging activities. Only K. rotunda demonstrates relatively weaker antioxidant activity compared to T. sinensis, C. heyneana, C. longa, and C. zedoaria. Nevertheless, K. rotunda can still be developed to search for potential opportunities as agents with other activities, while T. sinensis, C. heyneana, C. longa, and C. zedoaria in the findings could be an opportunity to explore the potential of new anti-aging agents. In conclusion, of the five medicinal plants traditionally used by the SAD in Jambi, Indonesia, C. longa has received the most extensive research and shows potential for the development of anti-aging solutions. C. zedoaria, C. heyneana and K. rotunda show good potential for in vivo anti-aging activity. T. sinensis is the least-studied medicinal plant. Nevertheless, it has potential for development, as it is widely used by the SAD community for both traditional medicine and skin care.

Tackling the challenge of drying and redispersion of cellulose nanofibrils via membrane-facilitated liquid phase exchange

It is generally acknowledged that to advance the application of cellulose nanofibrils (CNFs) in product formulations, challenges associated with the drying and redispersion of this material must be addressed. Despite increased research efforts in this area, these interventions still involve the use of additives or conventional drying technologies, which both have the capacity to drive up the cost of the final CNF powders. Herein, we prepared dried and redispersible CNF powders with varying surface functionalities without the use of additives nor conventional drying technologies. Rapid drying in air was achieved after liquid phase exchange from water to isopropyl alcohol. The surface properties, morphology and thermal stabilities were the same for the never-dried and redispersed forms. The rheological properties of the CNFs were also unaffected after drying and redispersion of unmodified and organic acid modified materials. However, for 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine 1-oxyl (TEMPO)-mediated oxidised CNFs with higher surface charge and longer fibrils, the storage modulus could not be recovered to the never-dried state because of the possible non-selective reduction in length upon redispersion. Nevertheless, this method provides an effective and low-cost process for the drying and redispersion of unmodified and surface modified CNFs.

Biotransformation of Flavonoids with -NO2, -CH3 Groups and -Br, -Cl Atoms by Entomopathogenic Filamentous Fungi

Combining chemical and microbiological methods using entomopathogenic filamentous fungi makes obtaining flavonoid glycosides possible. In the presented study, biotransformations were carried out in cultures of Beauveria bassiana KCH J1.5, Isaria fumosorosea KCH J2, and Isaria farinosa KCH J2.6 strains on six flavonoid compounds obtained in chemical synthesis. As a result of the biotransformation of 6-methyl-8-nitroflavanone using the strain I. fumosorosea KCH J2, two products were obtained: 6-methyl-8-nitro-2-phenylchromane 4-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside and 8-nitroflavan-4-ol 6-methylene-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside. 8-Bromo-6-chloroflavanone was transformed by this strain to 8-bromo-6-chloroflavan-4-ol 4'-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside. As a result of microbial transformation by I. farinosa KCH J2.6 effectively biotransformed only 8-bromo-6-chloroflavone into 8-bromo-6-chloroflavone 4'-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside. B. bassiana KCH J1.5 was able to transform 6-methyl-8-nitroflavone to 6-methyl-8-nitroflavone 4'-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside, and 3'-bromo-5'-chloro-2'-hydroxychalcone to 8-bromo-6-chloroflavanone 3'-O-β-D-(4″-O-methyl)-glucopyranoside. None of the filamentous fungi used transformed 2'-hydroxy-5'-methyl-3'-nitrochalcone effectively. Obtained flavonoid derivatives could be used to fight against antibiotic-resistant bacteria. To the best of our knowledge, all the substrates and products presented in this work are new compounds and are described for the first time.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

The anti-melanogenic properties of Swietenia macrophylla king

Fair flawless skin is the goal for some cultures and the development of irregular skin pigmentation is considered an indication of premature skin aging. Hence, there is a rising demand for skin whitening cosmetics. Thus, this research will be focusing on discovering the anti-pigmentation properties of Swietenia macrophylla seeds. Firstly, the seeds were extracted with ethanol and further fractionate based on their polarity before testing them on zebrafish embryos. The ethanolic extract of the seed demonstrated significant inhibition of both tyrosinase activity and melanin production in the embryos. However, after fractionation, the anti-melanogenic ability was observed to have decreased, signifying that the phytocompounds may be synergistic in nature. Still in the proteomic studies the ethanolic extract and its hexane fraction both induced the downregulation of cathepsin LB and cytoskeletal proteins that have connections to the melanogenic pathway, confirming that S. macrophylla seeds do indeed have anti-pigmentation properties that can be exploited for cosmetic use. Next, limonoids (tetranortriterpenoids found in the seed) were tested for their inhibitory effect against human tyrosinase related protein 1 (TYRP-1) via molecular docking. It was found that limonoids have a stronger binding affinity to TYRP-1 than kojic acid, suggesting that these phytocompounds may have the potential in inhibiting pigmentation. However, this still needs further confirmation before these phytocompounds can be developed into a skin whitening agent. Other assays like ex-vivo or 3D human skin culture can also be used to better study the seeds anti-pigmentation effect on humans.

Chitosan Based Materials in Cosmetic Applications: A Review

This review provides a report on the properties and recent advances in the application of chitosan and chitosan-based materials in cosmetics. Chitosan is a polysaccharide that can be obtained from chitin via the deacetylation process. Chitin most commonly is extracted from cell walls in fungi and the exoskeletons of arthropods, such as crustaceans and insects. Chitosan has attracted significant academic interest, as well as the attention of the cosmetic industry, due to its interesting properties, which include being a natural humectant and moisturizer for the skin and a rheology modifier. This review paper covers the structure of chitosan, the sources of chitosan used in the cosmetic industry, and the role played by this polysaccharide in cosmetics. Future aspects regarding applications of chitosan-based materials in cosmetics are also mentioned.

Efficacy of gel containing organic extra virgin olive oil for peristomal skin hygiene: A pilot randomised controlled trial

AIM

To assess the efficacy and safety of the application, during stoma hygiene, of a pH-neutral gel containing organic EVOO (oEVOO) for the maintenance of peristomal skin integrity.

METHOD

Patients with a colostomy or ileostomy were enrolled in a pilot randomized controlled trial and assigned treatment with a pH-neutral gel made from natural products including oEVOO or usual stoma hygiene gel. The primary outcome was three domains of abnormal peristomal skin: Discolouration, Erosion and Tissue overgrowth. Secondary outcomes that were evaluated included skin moisture; oiliness; skin elasticity; water-oil balance; patients' perceptions; difficulty inserting and removing the pouching system; pain, any other chemical, infectious, mechanical, or immunological complications of concern. The intervention lasted 8 weeks.

RESULTS

Twenty-one patients were recruited for the trial and randomly assigned to either the experimental group (n = 12) or the control group (n = 9). The groups did not differ significantly in terms of patient characteristics. No significant differences between groups were identified either at baseline (p = 0.203) or at the end of the intervention (p = 0.397). In the experimental group, domains of abnormal peristomal skin improved after the intervention. The difference observed before and after the intervention was statistically significant (p = 0.031).

CONCLUSION

The use of a gel containing oEVOO has shown similar levels of efficacy and safety to other gels commonly used for peristomal skin hygiene. It is also relevant to highlight that a significant improvement in skin condition was observed in the experimental group before and after the intervention.

Physicochemical studies of novel sugar fatty acid esters based on (R)-3-hydroxylated acids derived from bacterial polyhydroxyalkanoates and their potential environmental impact

Sugar fatty acids esters are popular compounds widely used in both the nutritional, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries due to their amphiphilic structure and consequent ability to reduce the surface tension of solutions. Furthermore, an important aspect in the implementation of any additives and formulations is their environmental impact. The properties of the esters depend on the type of sugar used and the hydrophobic component. In this work, selected physicochemical properties of new sugar esters based on lactose, glucose and galactose and hydroxy acids derived from bacterial polyhydroxyalkanoates are shown for the first time. Values for critical aggregation concentration, surface activity and pH make it possible that these esters could compete with other commercially used esters of similar chemical structure. The investigated compounds showed moderate emulsion stabilization abilities presented on the example of water-oil systems containing squalene and body oil. Their potential environmental impact appears to be low, as the esters are not toxic to Caenorhabditis elegans even at concentrations much higher than the critical aggregation concentration.

Biocosmetics: technological advances and future outlook

The paper provides an overview of biocosmetics, which has tremendous potential for growth and is attracting huge business opportunities. It emphasizes the immediate need to replace conventional fossil-based ingredients in cosmetics with natural, safe, and effective ingredients. It assembles recent technologies viable in the production/extraction of the bioactive ingredient, product development, and formulation processes, its rapid and smooth delivery to the target site, and fosters bio-based cosmetic packaging. It further explores industries that can be a trailblazer in supplying raw material for extraction of bio-based ingredients for cosmetics, creating biodegradable packaging, or weaving innovation in fashion clothing. Lastly, the paper discusses what it takes to become the first generation of a circular economy and supports the implementation of strict regulatory guidelines for any cosmetic sold globally.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

Recent Advances in Natural Polyphenol Research

Polyphenols are secondary metabolites produced by plants, which contribute to the plant's defense against abiotic stress conditions (e.g., UV radiation and precipitation), the aggression of herbivores, and plant pathogens. Epidemiological studies suggest that long-term consumption of plant polyphenols protects against cardiovascular disease, cancer, osteoporosis, diabetes, and neurodegenerative diseases. Their structural diversity has fascinated and confronted analytical chemists on how to carry out unambiguous identification, exhaustive recovery from plants and organic waste, and define their nutritional and biological potential. The food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries employ polyphenols from fruits and vegetables to produce additives, additional foods, and supplements. In some cases, nanocarriers have been used to protect polyphenols during food processing, to solve the issues related to low water solubility, to transport them to the site of action, and improve their bioavailability. This review summarizes the structure-bioactivity relationships, processing parameters that impact polyphenol stability and bioavailability, the research progress in nanocarrier delivery, and the most innovative methodologies for the exhaustive recovery of polyphenols from plant and agri-waste materials.

Potential application of natural bioactive compounds as skin-whitening agents: A review

BACKGROUND

Melanin is a skin pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes. The accumulation or over production of melanin can lead to aesthetic problems as well as serious diseases associated with hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening is described as the procedure of using natural or synthetic products to lighten the skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by reducing the amount of melanin in the skin; therefore, skin lightening products help people to treat their skin problems. Ingredients such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and retinoic acid were used as whitening agents to lighten the skin. However, they have many adverse effects on the skin and body health, such as skin irritation.

AIM

In this review, firstly, discuss on the directly/indirectly target melanogenesis-related signal pathways. Secondly, summarize potential natural bioactive ingredients with skin lightening properties from plants, marine organisms, microorganisms. Finally, the remaining problems and future challenges are also discussed.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using Google Scholar and Web of Science. Natural bioactive compounds, tyrosinase inhibitors, and other related topics were researched and evaluated.

RESULTS

Natural products isolated from plant and animal resources are potential active cosmetic candidates for lightening the skin tone and skin whitening and protection against UV irradiation. Natural bioactive ingredients as cosmetic whitening additives have attracted increasingly attention due to their safety and cost effectiveness, with few side effects.

CONCLUSION

Although natural active substances have been advocated for use in whitening cosmetics in recent years, there are still many challenges due to the fact that traditional inhibitors are used perennial in cosmetics which cannot be easily changed and the research on natural active substances is still in its infancy. In the future, by improving the extraction technique of natural extracts, it is achieved to give a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the active ingredients of the extracts, to determine the effect of the active components of action, and to find the substances that have the best possible whitening effect in natural organisms.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Biological and Cosmetical Importance of Fermented Raw Materials: An Overview

The cosmetics industry is currently looking for innovative ingredients with higher bioactivity and bioavailability for the masses of natural and organic cosmetics. Bioferments are innovative ingredients extracted from natural raw materials by carrying out a fermentation process with appropriate strains of microorganisms. The review was conducted using the SciFinder database with the keywords “fermented plant”, “cosmetics”, and “fermentation”. Mainly bioferments are made from plant-based raw materials. The review covers a wide range of fermented raw materials, from waste materials (whey with beet pulp) to plant oils (F-Shiunko, F-Artemisia, F-Glycyrrhiza). The spectrum of applications for bioferments is broad and includes properties such as skin whitening, antioxidant properties (blackberry, soybean, goji berry), anti-aging (red ginseng, black ginseng, Citrus unshiu peel), hydrating, and anti-allergic (aloe vera, skimmed milk). Fermentation increases the biochemical and physiological activity of the substrate by converting high-molecular compounds into low-molecular structures, making fermented raw materials more compatible compared to unfermented raw materials.

Combination of cassava starch biopolymer and essential oils for coating table eggs

This work aimed to evaluate the eggshell microbiota and the internal egg quality after coatings with cassava starch biopolymer enriched with different essential oils during 35 days of storage at 20°C. A total of 369 brown table eggs were used and distributed in the following treatments: uncoated eggs, coated with cassava starch + Ginger essential oil (CS+GIN), cassava starch + Lemongrass essential oil (CS+LEM), and cassava starch + Tahiti lemon essential oil (CS+TAH). The count of total aerobic mesophilic bacteria on coated eggshells at 0 and 35 days of storage were similar to each other (mean 0.70 ± 0.37 and 0.91 ± 0.22 log10 CFU/mL) and significantly lower compared to uncoated eggs (2.21 ± 0.17 and 3.17 ± 0.22 log10 CFU/mL), in that order. On the 35th day, coated eggs showed similar Haugh unit (HU) values between them (mean 70.61 ± 5.35; classified as A - high quality) and significantly higher than uncoated eggs (51.60 ± 4.28; classified as B - average quality). Cassava starch coatings added with essential oils preserved the internal quality of the eggs during storage for 5 weeks at 20°C, reducing the eggshell microbiota and effectively keeping it at low levels during storage.

The Prospects of Swietenia macrophylla King in Skin Care

The importance of cosmetics in our lives is immeasurable. Covering items from daily personal hygienic products to skincare, it has become essential to consumers that the items that they use are safe and effective. Since natural products are from natural sources, and therefore considered “natural” and “green” in the public’s eyes, the rise in demand for such products is not surprising. Even so, factoring in the need to remain on trend and innovative, cosmetic companies are on a constant search for new ingredients and inventive new formulations. Based on numerous literature, the seed of Swietenia macrophylla has been shown to possess several potential “cosmetic-worthy” bioproperties, such as skin whitening, photoprotective, antioxidant, antimicrobial, etc. These properties are vital in the cosmetic business, as they ultimately contribute to the “ageless” beauty that many consumers yearn for. Therefore, with further refinement and research, these active phytocompounds may be a great contribution to the cosmetic field in the near future.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

Multi-Criteria Decision-Making Approach for Nutraceuticals Greener Applications: The Cynara cardunculus Case Study

Nutraceuticals are an ever-expanding market worldwide, facing the unstoppable transition towards a green economy. Developing economically feasible and sustainable alternatives to current raw materials for the extraction of nutraceuticals is, therefore, essential to reach these goals and, at the same time, achieve social and economic competitiveness. This paper intends to propose an economical and environmentally sustainable feedstock for chlorogenic acid (CGA) and inulin, whose current extraction from green coffee and chicory, respectively, is unsustainable. Our approach is based on the multi-criteria decision-making approach (MCDA), supported by the analytical hierarchy process (AHP), ranking the performance of competitor biomasses according to economic, social, and technological criteria. The results of this study highlight cardoon (Cynara cardunculus) as a promising raw material for the extraction of CGA and inulin in virtue of the high concentration, low-input growth regime, and the possibility of being grown on marginal lands. Nevertheless, cardoon biomass availability is currently scarce, extraction methods are underdeveloped, and consequently, the obtained product’s price is higher than the benchmark competitors. Policies and investments favoring sustainable cultivations could stimulate cardoon employment, linking economic advantages and land requalification while limiting phenomena such as desertification and food competition in the Mediterranean basin.

The Potential of Dietary Antioxidants

Oxidative stress happens when the levels of reactive species made from oxygen and nitrogen exceed the body's antioxidant capacity [...].

Bio Discarded from Waste to Resource

The modern linear agricultural production system allows the production of large quantities of food for an ever-growing population. However, it leads to large quantities of agricultural waste either being disposed of or treated for the purpose of reintroduction into the production chain with a new use. Various approaches in food waste management were explored to achieve social benefits and applications. The extraction of natural bioactive molecules (such as fibers and antioxidants) through innovative technologies represents a means of obtaining value-added products and an excellent measure to reduce the environmental impact. Cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and nutraceutical industries can use natural bioactive molecules as supplements and the food industry as feed and food additives. The bioactivities of phytochemicals contained in biowaste, their potential economic impact, and analytical procedures that allow their recovery are summarized in this study. Our results showed that although the recovery of bioactive molecules represents a sustainable means of achieving both waste reduction and resource utilization, further research is needed to optimize the valuable process for industrial-scale recovery.

Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA's permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA's levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index -15.7% after 30', and -17.8% after 60').

Comparison between Mid-Infrared (ATR-FTIR) Spectroscopy and Official Analysis Methods for Determination of the Concentrations of Alcohol, SO2, and Total Acids in Wine

The determination of alcohol, SO2, and total acids in wine through conventional laboratory techniques have some limitations related to the amount of the samples, analytical preparation of laboratory staff, and time to carry out the analysis. In recent years, spectroscopic and chromatographic methods have been proposed to determinate simultaneously multiple analytical parameters. The new methods claim the speed of analysis and easy execution. However, they need a validation process that guarantees the reliability of the results to be used in official determinations. This study aimed to evaluate the usefulness of FT-infrared reflectance (FT-IR) to quantify total acid, alcohol, and SO2 concentration in the wines. For this purpose, 156 DOC Italian wines were tested with IR technology, and results were compared to those obtained by official analysis methods. The comparison was performed using two non-parametric statistical methods: the Bland & Altman test and Passing & Bablok regression. Our results showed that the spectrophotometric methods make errors due to interfering contaminants in the sample that can be corrected by blank determination. Therefore, the spectrophotometric methods that use the infrared region of the electromagnetic spectrum can be used by the wine industry and regulators for the wine routine as an alternative to official methodologies.

Effect of Selected Trichoderma Strains and Metabolites on Olive Drupes

Beneficial fungal strains of the genus Trichoderma are used as biofungicides and plant growth promoters. Trichoderma strains promote the activation of plant defense mechanisms of action, including the production of phenolic metabolites. In this work, we analyzed the effects of selected Trichoderma strains (T. asperellum KV906, T. virens GV41, and T. harzianum strains TH1, M10, and T22) and their metabolites (harzianic acid and 6-pentyl-α-pyrone) on drupes of young olive trees (4-year-old) cv. Carolea. This study used the untargeted analysis of drupe metabolome, carried out by LC–MS Q-TOF, to evaluate the phenolics profiles and target metabolomics approach to detect oleuropein and luteolin. The untargeted approach showed significant differences in the number and type of phenolic compounds in olive drupes after Trichoderma applications (by root dipping and drench soil irrigation method) compared to control. The levels of oleuropein (secoiridoid) and luteolin (flavonoid) varied according to the strain or metabolite applied, and in some cases, were less abundant in treated plants than in the control. In general, flavonoids’ levels were influenced more than secoiridoid production. The dissimilar aptitudes of the biological treatments could depend on the selective competence to cooperate with the enzymes involved in producing the secondary metabolites to defend plants by environmental stresses. Our results suggest that using selected fungi of the genus Trichoderma and their metabolites could contribute to selecting the nutraceutical properties of the olive drupe. The use of the metabolites would bring further advantages linked to the dosage in culture and storage.

Skin Care Formulations and Lipid Carriers as Skin Moisturizing Agents

Skin care formulations have evolved as the interaction of health and beauty products for the skin. Their benefits are based on the combination of cosmetic active ingredients and targeted application. Cosmetic actives have been used in novel formulations for decades (sunscreens, anti-aging treatments, etc.), but the problems with their low solubility, low penetration, and physicochemical instability when applied to the skin have yet to be solved. One way to circumvent these shortcomings is to use lipid carriers, which are known to play an important role in the solubility of poorly soluble compounds by facilitating skin permeation and improving stability. This review addresses recent advances in skin care products that use novel nanotechnology-based lipid systems (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc.) to deliver moisturizing cosmetic actives and improve product efficacy.

Phytosomes as an Emerging Nanotechnology Platform for the Topical Delivery of Bioactive Phytochemicals

The emergence of phytosome nanotechnology has a potential impact in the field of drug delivery and could revolutionize the current state of topical bioactive phytochemicals delivery. The main challenge facing the translation of the therapeutic activity of phytochemicals to a clinical setting is the extremely low absorption rate and poor penetration across biological barriers (i.e., the skin). Phytosomes as lipid-based nanocarriers play a crucial function in the enhancement of pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties of herbal-originated polyphenolic compounds, and make this nanotechnology a promising tool for the development of new topical formulations. The implementation of this nanosized delivery system could enhance the penetration of phytochemicals across biological barriers due to their unique physiochemical characteristics, improving their bioavailability. In this review, we provide an outlook on the current knowledge of the biological barriers of phytoconstituents topical applications. The great potential of the emerging nanotechnology in the delivery of bioactive phytochemicals is reviewed, with particular focus on phytosomes as an innovative lipid-based nanocarrier. Additionally, we compared phytosomes with liposomes as the gold standard of lipid-based nanocarriers for the topical delivery of phytochemicals. Finally, the advantages of phytosomes in topical applications are discussed.

UHPLC-HRMS Analysis of Fagus sylvatica (Fagaceae) Leaves: A Renewable Source of Antioxidant Polyphenols

European beech (Fagus sylvatica L.) is a deciduous tree, widely distributed in Europe and largely appreciated for its wood and nutritive nuts. Beech leaf also enjoys food use as salad, but an understanding of its nutraceutical value is still far from being achieved. Indeed, and also taking into account beech leaf as a consistent biomass residue available beechwood production and use, it needs to be explored as a valuable renewable specialized source of bioactive molecules. In this context, an untargeted ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with high resolution mass spectrometry (UHPLC-HRMS) approach was favorably applied to a beech leaf alcoholic extract, which also was evaluated for its antiradical capability (by means of assays based on 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and [2,2’-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazolin-6-sulfonic acid)] (ABTS) radical cation) and its ferric ion reducing power. Redox mitochondrial activity towards Caco-2 cells paved the way to explore the extract’s capability to inhibit intracellular Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) using 2’,7’dichlorofluorescin diacetate (DCFH-DA) assay. Hydroxycinnamoyl derivatives, mainly belonging to the chlorogenic acid class, and flavonoids were the main constituents. Uncommon flavanone C-glycosides were also found, together with a plentiful flavonol diversity. Cell-free and cell-based assays highlight its dose-dependent antioxidant efficacy, providing a foundation for further investigation of beech leaf constituents and its valorization and use as a reservoir of bioactive natural products with potential nutraceutical applications.