The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer

BACKGROUND

Cutaneous hyperpigmentation occurs in multiple conditions. In addition, many Asian women desire a lighter skin colour. Thus, there is a need for the development of skin lightening agents. Niacinamide is a possible candidate.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the effects of niacinamide on melanogenesis in vitro and on facial hyperpigmentation and skin colour in vivo in Japanese women.

METHODS

Melanin production was measured in a purified mushroom tyrosinase assay, cultured melanocytes, a keratinocyte/melanocyte coculture model, and a pigmented reconstructed epidermis (PREP) model. The clinical trials included 18 subjects with hyperpigmentation who used 5% niacinamide moisturizer and vehicle moisturizer in a paired design, and 120 subjects with facial tanning who were assigned to two of three treatments: vehicle, sunscreen and 2% niacinamide + sunscreen. Changes in facial hyperpigmentation and skin colour were objectively quantified by computer analysis and visual grading of high-resolution digital images of the face.

RESULTS

Niacinamide had no effect on the catalytic activity of mushroom tyrosinase or on melanogenesis in cultured melanocytes. However, niacinamide gave 35-68% inhibition of melanosome transfer in the coculture model and reduced cutaneous pigmentation in the PREP model. In the clinical studies, niacinamide significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness compared with vehicle alone after 4 weeks of use.

CONCLUSIONS

The data suggest niacinamide is an effective skin lightening compound that works by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes.

Keratinocytes play a role in regulating distribution patterns of recipient melanosomes in vitro

Melanosomes in keratinocytes of Black skin are larger and distributed individually whereas those within keratinocytes of Caucasian skin are smaller and distributed in clusters. This disparity contributes to differences in skin pigmentation and photoprotection, but the control of these innate distribution patterns is poorly understood. To investigate this process, cocultures were established using melanocytes and keratinocytes derived from different racial backgrounds and were examined by electron microscopy. Melanosomes transferred to keratinocytes were categorized as individual or in various clusters. Melanosome size was also determined for individual and clustered melanosomes. Results indicate that, in our model system, melanosomes in keratinocytes from different racial backgrounds show a combination of clustered and individual melanosomes. When keratinocytes from dark skin were cocultured with melanocytes from (i) dark skin or (ii) light skin, however, recipient melanosomes were individual versus clustered in (i) 77% vs 23% and (ii) 64% vs 36%, respectively. In contrast, when keratinocytes from light skin were cocultured with melanocytes from (iii) dark skin or (iv) light skin, recipient melanosomes were individual versus clustered in (iii) 34% vs 66% and (iv) 39% vs 61%, respectively. These results indicate that recipient melanosomes, regardless of origin, are predominantly distributed individually by keratinocytes from dark skin, and in membrane-bound clusters by those from light skin. There were also differences in melanosome size from dark or light donor melanocytes. Melanosome size was not related to whether the melanosomes were distributed individually or clustered, however, in cocultures. These results suggest that regulatory factor(s) within the keratinocyte determine recipient melanosome distribution patterns.

Inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes by lectins and neoglycoproteins in an in vitro model system

We propose that some of the critical molecules involved in the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes include plasma membrane lectins and their glycoconjugates. To investigate this mechanism, co-cultures of human melanocytes and keratinocytes derived from neonatal foreskins were established. The process of melanosome transfer was assessed by two experimental procedures. The first involved labeling melanocyte cultures with the fluorochrome CFDA. Labeled melanocytes were subsequently co-cultured with keratinocytes, and the transfer of fluorochrome assessed visually by confocal microscopy and quantitatively by flow cytometry. The second investigative approach involved co-culturing melanocytes with keratinocytes, and processing the co-cultures after 3 days for electron microscopy to quantitate the numbers of melanosomes in keratinocytes. Results from these experimental approaches indicate significant transfer of dye or melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes that increased with time of co-culturing. Using these model systems, we subsequently tested a battery of lectins and neoglycoproteins for their effect in melanosome transfer. Addition of these selected molecules to co-cultures inhibited transfer of fluorochrome by approximately 15-44% as assessed by flow cytometry, and of melanosomes by 67-93% as assessed by electron microscopy. Therefore, our results suggest the roles of selected lectins and glycoproteins in melanosome transfer to keratinocytes in the skin.