Arc-poration improves transdermal delivery of biomolecules

BACKGROUND

To increase skin permeability, various transdermal delivery techniques have been developed. However, due to the stratum corneum as a skin barrier, transdermal delivery remains limited.

AIMS

In this study, we evaluated efficacy and safety of arc-poration as a novel technique disrupting the stratum corneum.

RESULTS

Optical images and histological analysis using reconstituted human skin and porcine skin showed that the treatment of arc-poration created micropores with an average diameter of approximately 100 μm only to the depth of the stratum corneum, but not viable epidermis. In addition, the Franz diffusion cell experiment using reconstituted human skin showed a remarkable increase in permeability following pretreatment with arc-poration. Clinical results clearly demonstrated the enhancement of the skin-improving effect of cosmetics by pretreatment of arc-poration in terms of gloss, hydration, flakiness, texture, tone, tone evenness, and pigmentation of skin, without causing abnormal skin responses. The concentration of ozone and nitrogen oxides generated by arc-poration was below the permissible value for the human body.

CONCLUSIONS

Arc-poration can increase skin permeability by creating stratum corneum-specific micropores, which can enhance the skin-improving effect of cosmetics without adverse responses.

Influence of Surfactant on the Skin Permeation of Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone

Patch tests are often used in safety evaluations to identify the substance causing skin irritation, but the same substance can sometimes give positive or negative results depending on the test conditions. Here, we investigated differences in the skin penetration of two test compounds under different application conditions. We studied the effects of the anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and the nonionic surfactant polysorbate 80 (PS) on skin penetration of the preservatives methylisothiazolinone (MT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCT), which are used in cosmetics such as shampoos. The skin permeation of MT was enhanced by SDS but was unchanged by PS. Skin impedance decreased in the presence of SDS whereas PS had the same effect as the control aqueous solution, suggesting that SDS reduction of the barrier function of skin affects the permeation of MT, a hydrophilic drug. Application of a mixture of MCT and MT in the presence of SDS did not affect the skin permeation of MCT whereas the permeation of MT was enhanced by SDS, indicating that the skin permeation of MCT is less affected by SDS than is MT. Thus, attention should be paid to the possible effect of co-solutes, especially hydrophilic drugs.

Investigating the uncertainty of prediction accuracy for the application of physiologically based pharmacokinetic models to animal-free risk assessment of cosmetic ingredients

Physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) models are considered useful tools in animal-free risk assessment. To utilize PBPK models for risk assessment, it is necessary to compare their reliability with in vivo data. However, obtaining in vivo pharmacokinetics data for cosmetic ingredients is difficult, complicating the utilization of PBPK models for risk assessment. In this study, to utilize PBPK models for risk assessment without accuracy evaluation, we proposed a novel concept-the modeling uncertainty factor (MUF). By calculating the prediction accuracy for 150 compounds, we established that using in vitro data for metabolism-related parameters and limiting the applicability domain increase the prediction accuracy of a PBPK model. Based on the 97.5th percentile of prediction accuracy, MUF was defined at 10 for the area under the plasma concentration curve and 6 for C_max. A case study on animal-free risk assessment was conducted for bisphenol A using these MUFs. As this study was conducted mainly on pharmaceuticals, further investigation using cosmetic ingredients is pivotal. However, since internal exposure is essential in realizing animal-free risk assessment, our concept will serve as a useful tool to predict plasma concentrations without using in vivo data.

The Emerging Role of Ionic Liquid-Based Approaches for Enhanced Skin Permeation of Bioactive Molecules: A Snapshot of the Past Couple of Years

Topical and transdermal delivery systems are of undeniable significance and ubiquity in healthcare, to facilitate the delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients, respectively, onto or across the skin to enter systemic circulation. From ancient ointments and potions to modern micro/nanotechnological devices, a variety of approaches has been explored over the ages to improve the skin permeation of diverse medicines and cosmetics. Amongst the latest investigational dermal permeation enhancers, ionic liquids have been gaining momentum, and recent years have been prolific in this regard. As such, this review offers an outline of current methods for enhancing percutaneous permeation, highlighting selected reports where ionic liquid-based approaches have been investigated for this purpose. Future perspectives on use of ionic liquids for topical delivery of bioactive peptides are also presented.

Safety Assessment of Keratin and Keratin-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 8 keratin-derived ingredients, which function mainly as skin and hair conditioning agents in personal care products. The Panel reviewed relevant data provided in this safety assessment and concluded that the 8 keratin-derived ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Metabolomic Investigations of the Temporal Effects of Exposure to Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products and Their Mixture in the Eastern Oyster (Crassostrea virginica)

The eastern oyster (Crassostrea virginica) supports a large aquaculture industry and is a keystone species along the Atlantic seaboard. Native oysters are routinely exposed to a complex mixture of contaminants that increasingly includes pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs). Unfortunately, the biological effects of chemical mixtures on oysters are poorly understood. Untargeted gas chromatography-mass spectrometry metabolomics was utilized to quantify the response of oysters exposed to fluoxetine, N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide, 17α-ethynylestradiol, diphenhydramine, and their mixture. Oysters were exposed to 1 µg/L of each chemical or mixture for 10 d, followed by an 8-d depuration period. Adductor muscle (n = 14/treatment) was sampled at days 0, 1, 5, 10, and 18. Trajectory analysis illustrated that metabolic effects and class separation of the treatments varied at each time point and that, overall, the oysters were only able to partially recover from these exposures post-depuration. Altered metabolites were associated with cellular energetics (i.e., Krebs cycle intermediates), as well as amino acid metabolism and fatty acids. Exposure to these PPCPs also affected metabolic pathways associated with anaerobic metabolism, osmotic stress, and oxidative stress, in addition to the physiological effects of each chemical's postulated mechanism of action. Following depuration, fewer metabolites were altered, but none of the treatments returned them to their initial control values, indicating that metabolic disruptions were long-lasting. Interestingly, the mixture did not directly cluster with individual treatments in the scores plot from partial least squares discriminant analysis, and many of its affected metabolic pathways were not well predicted from the individual treatments. The present study highlights the utility of untargeted metabolomics in developing exposure biomarkers for compounds with different modes of action in bivalves. Environ Toxicol Chem 2020;39:419-436. © 2019 SETAC.

Anti-Aging Potential of Substance P-Based Hydrogel for Human Skin Longevity

Skin aging is generally caused by a decline in the components of the extracellular matrix (e.g., collagen and elastin) and due to inflammatory phenomena. Many growth factors and peptides with cell-growth and collagen-synthesis activities have shown promise in their application in anti-aging materials. However, the effect of collagen production, without anti-inflammatory effect, and skin penetration may not be enough for their use in anti-aging agents. Previously, we reported a substance P (SP)-based hydrogel (SP gel) that had potential wound-healing activities via induction of skin cell regeneration and collagen synthesis. Here, we analyzed the anti-aging activities and skin absorption effects of SP gel to extend its characterization. Toxicity tests, performed on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and on a reconstructed 3D human skin model, indicated SP gel to be safe for long-term use, without causing irritation, even at high concentrations. In-vitro analysis revealed that SP gel elicited stronger collagen production activities than SP alone, and promoted anti-inflammatory effects with increased skin absorption properties. Moreover, SP gel did not induce melanin synthesis in a keratinocyte-melanocyte co-culture system. Together, the results suggest that SP gel has potential cosmetic effects and applicability as a novel ingredient in anti-aging products.

A kinetic-based safety assessment of consumer exposure to salicylic acid from cosmetic products demonstrates no evidence of a health risk from developmental toxicity

Salicylic acid (SA) has a long history of safe use as ingredient in topical cosmetic products. In 2016, the Committee for Risk Assessment of the European Chemicals Agency proposed to classify SA as a Category 2 reproductive toxicant based on adverse developmental effects in animal toxicity studies. This hazard-based classification (based on mg/kg doses) requires a reassessment of the safety of the current SA concentrations in cosmetic consumer products. Herein, a safety reassessment was performed in which margins of safety were calculated based on literature data on the NOAEL plasma exposure levels from animal reproductive toxicity studies with ASA (rapidly converts to SA in plasma), human SA plasma levels from oral exposure to ASA and human dermal exposure to SA-containing cosmetic products. In addition, a literature review was performed, which shows that there are no adverse developmental effects despite extensive human clinical oral use of ASA up to the maximum recommended therapeutic doses. The plasma exposure-based safety assessment for SA combined with an absence of any clinical health risk with oral ASA use in the literature supports that there is an acceptable margin of safety for the consumer exposure to SA as authorized in the current EU cosmetic regulation.

Analysis of real-time mixture cytotoxicity data following repeated exposure using BK/TD models

Cosmetic products generally consist of multiple ingredients. Thus, cosmetic risk assessment has to deal with mixture toxicity on a long-term scale which means it has to be assessed in the context of repeated exposure. Given that animal testing has been banned for cosmetics risk assessment, in vitro assays allowing long-term repeated exposure and adapted for in vitro - in vivo extrapolation need to be developed. However, most in vitro tests only assess short-term effects and consider static endpoints which hinder extrapolation to realistic human exposure scenarios where concentration in target organs is varies over time. Thanks to impedance metrics, real-time cell viability monitoring for repeated exposure has become possible. We recently constructed biokinetic/toxicodynamic models (BK/TD) to analyze such data (Teng et al., 2015) for three hepatotoxic cosmetic ingredients: coumarin, isoeugenol and benzophenone-2. In the present study, we aim to apply these models to analyze the dynamics of mixture impedance data using the concepts of concentration addition and independent action. Metabolic interactions between the mixture components were investigated, characterized and implemented in the models, as they impacted the actual cellular exposure. Indeed, cellular metabolism following mixture exposure induced a quick disappearance of the compounds from the exposure system. We showed that isoeugenol substantially decreased the metabolism of benzophenone-2, reducing the disappearance of this compound and enhancing its in vitro toxicity. Apart from this metabolic interaction, no mixtures showed any interaction, and all binary mixtures were successfully modeled by at least one model based on exposure to the individual compounds.

Multi-pathway exposure modeling of chemicals in cosmetics with application to shampoo

We present a novel multi-pathway, mass balance based, fate and exposure model compatible with life cycle and high-throughput screening assessments of chemicals in cosmetic products. The exposures through product use as well as post-use emissions and environmental media were quantified based on the chemical mass originally applied via a product, multiplied by the product intake fractions (PiF, the fraction of a chemical in a product that is taken in by exposed persons) to yield intake rates. The average PiFs for the evaluated chemicals in shampoo ranged from 3×10(-4) up to 0.3 for rapidly absorbed ingredients. Average intake rates ranged between nano- and micrograms per kilogram bodyweight per day; the order of chemical prioritization was strongly affected by the ingredient concentration in shampoo. Dermal intake and inhalation (for 20% of the evaluated chemicals) during use dominated exposure, while the skin permeation coefficient dominated the estimated uncertainties. The fraction of chemical taken in by a shampoo user often exceeded, by orders of magnitude, the aggregated fraction taken in by the population through post-use environmental emissions. Chemicals with relatively high octanol-water partitioning and/or volatility, and low molecular weight tended to have higher use stage exposure. Chemicals with low intakes during use (<1%) and subsequent high post-use emissions, however, may yield comparable intake for a member of the general population. The presented PiF based framework offers a novel and critical advancement for life cycle assessments and high-throughput exposure screening of chemicals in cosmetic products demonstrating the importance of consistent consideration of near- and far-field multi-pathway exposures.

[INABILITY TO TOLERATE COSMETICS]

Inability to tolerate cosmetics can result from distinct mechanisms which appear as the so-called sensitive skin corresponding to one aspect of invisible dermatosis, or which corresponds to manifestations of a contact allergic or irritation dermatitis.

Uptake and Tissue Distribution of Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in Wild Fish from Treated-Wastewater-Impacted Streams

A fish plasma model (FPM) has been proposed as a screening technique to prioritize potential hazardous pharmaceuticals to wild fish. However, this approach does not account for inter- or intraspecies variability of pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic parameters. The present study elucidated the uptake potency (from ambient water), tissue distribution, and biological risk of 20 pharmaceutical and personal care product (PPCP) residues in wild cyprinoid fish inhabiting treated-wastewater-impacted streams. In order to clarify the uncertainty of the FPM for PPCPs, we compared the plasma bioaccumulation factor in the field (BAFplasma = measured fish plasma/ambient water concentration ratio) with the predicted plasma bioconcentration factor (BCFplasma = fish plasma predicted by use of theoretical partition coefficients/ambient water concentration ratio) in the actual environment. As a result, the measured maximum BAFplasma of inflammatory agents was up to 17 times higher than theoretical BCFplasma values, leading to possible underestimation of toxicological risk on wild fish. When the tissue-blood partition coefficients (tissue/blood concentration ratios) of PPCPs were estimated, higher transportability into tissues, especially the brain, was found for psychotropic agents, but brain/plasma ratios widely varied among individual fish (up to 28-fold). In the present study, we provide a valuable data set on the intraspecies variability of PPCP pharmacokinetics, and our results emphasize the importance of determining PPCP concentrations in possible target organs as well as in the blood to assess the risk of PPCPs on wild fish.

Presence and effects of pharmaceutical and personal care products on the Baca National Wildlife Refuge, Colorado

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) have raised concerns due to their potential effects to aquatic organisms. These chemicals appear in mixtures at very low concentrations thus making their detection and quantification difficult. Polar organic chemical integrative samplers (POCIS) concentrate trace levels of chemicals over time increasing method sensitivity and thus represent a cost-effective screening tool for biomonitoring studies. The Baca National Wildlife Refuge (BNWR), Colorado, is home for several endemic fish species, including Rio Grande chub (Gila pandora). The objectives of this study were to (1) determine the types and concentrations of PPCPs in the Refuge, (2) compare and contrast two methods (grab and POCIS) for the quantification of PPCPs from surface water, and (3) determine effects due to PPCP exposure in fish. Between 2011 and 2013, 141 PPCPs were quantified using a combination of grab samples and POCIS. Although no PPCPs were detected from the grab samples, high concentrations of N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET) and triclosan were detected in all fish sampling sites with POCIS. Fathead minnows (Pimephales promelas) and Rio Grande chubs of both sexes were collected in 2011 and 2012. Several biological responses were observed in both species from creeks contaminated with PPCPs; however the presence of PPCPs in the reference site did not allow for valid data comparison and interpretation. We conclude that POCIS is a sensitive method for the detection and quantification of PPCPs and for identification of reference sites and that appropriate "reference" sites need to be identified at the BNWR for follow-up studies with native fish.

Treated wastewater irrigation: uptake of pharmaceutical and personal care products by common vegetables under field conditions

Global water shortage is placing an unprecedented pressure on water supplies. Treated wastewater is a valuable water resource, but its reuse for agricultural irrigation faces a roadblock: the public concern over the potential accumulation of contaminants of emerging concern (CECs) into human diet. In the present study, we measured the levels of 19 commonly occurring pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs) in 8 vegetables irrigated with treated wastewater under field conditions. Tertiary treated wastewater without or with a fortification of each PPCP at 250 ng/L, was used to irrigate crops until harvest. Plant samples at premature and mature stages were collected. Analysis of edible tissues showed a detection frequency of 64% and 91% in all vegetables from the treated wastewater and fortified water treatments, respectively. The edible samples from the two treatments contained the same PPCPs, including caffeine, meprobamate, primidone, DEET, carbamazepine, dilantin, naproxen, and triclosan. The total concentrations of PPCPs detected in edible tissues from the treated wastewater and fortified irrigation treatments were in the range of 0.01-3.87 and 0.15-7.3 ng/g (dry weight), respectively. Annual exposure of PPCPs from the consumption of mature vegetables irrigated with the fortified water was estimated to be only 3.69 μg per capita. Results from the present study showed that the accumulation of PPCPs in vegetables irrigated with treated wastewater was likely limited under field conditions.

Over-the-Counter Progesterone Cream Produces Significant Drug Exposure Compared to a Food and Drug Administration-Approved Oral Progesterone Product

Progesterone products are available in prescription form as well as over-the-counter (OTC) topical preparations sold for "cosmetic" uses. In a randomized study design, the authors compared the drug exposure from an OTC progesterone cream to a Food and Drug Administration-approved oral preparation at the labeled daily doses recommended for each product. Twelve healthy postmenopausal women received 200-mg oral progesterone capsules once daily for 12 days or progesterone cream 40 mg twice daily for 12 days. At steady state (day 12 of each phase), whole-blood samples were collected over 24 hours (oral progesterone) or 12 hours (topical progesterone) and assayed for total progesterone concentration. No significant differences were found in dose-normalized 24-hour progesterone exposure comparing the cream to oral capsules (median AUC(0-24) 12.5 ng x h/mL vs 10.5 ng x h/mL, respectively; P = .81). In light of the potential risks associated with long-term progesterone use, the authors question whether topical progesterone products should be available OTC.

Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid and its salts and esters and Glycyrrhizic Acid and its salts and esters are cosmetic ingredients that function as flavoring agents or skin-conditioning agents - miscellaneous or both. These chemicals may be isolated from licorice plants. Glycyrrhetinc Acid is described as at least 98% pure, with 0.6% 24-OH-Glycyrrhetinic Acid, not more than 20 mu g/g of heavy metals and not more than 2 mu g/g of arsenic. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate has been found to be at least 98% pure and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate has been found to be at least 95% pure. Glycyrrhetinic Acid is used in cosmetics at concentrations of up to 2%; Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, up to 1%; Glycyrrhizic Acid, up to 0.1%; Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, up to 5%; Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, up to 1%; and Potassium Glycyrretinate, up to 1%. Although Glycyrrhizic Acid is poorly absorbed by the intestinal tract, it may be hydrolyzed to Glycyrrhetinic Acid by a beta -glucuronidase produced by intestinal bacteria. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid bind to rat and human albumin, but do not absorb well into tissues. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid and metabolites are mostly excreted in the bile, with very little excreted in urine. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate was undetectable in the receptor chamber when tested for transepidermal permeation through pig skin. Glycyrrhizic Acid increased the dermal penetration of diclofenac sodium in rat skin. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate increased the intestinal absorption of calcitonin in rats. In humans, Glycyrrhetinic Acid potentiated the effects of hydrocortisone in the skin. Moderate chronic or high acute exposure to Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, and their metabolites have been demonstrated to cause transient systemic alterations, including increased potassium excretion, sodium and water retention, body weight gain, alkalosis, suppression of the renin-angiotensis-aldosterone system, hypertension, and muscular paralysis; possibly through inhibition of 11beta -hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase-2 (11beta -OHSD2) in the kidney. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and its derivatives block gap junction intracellular communication in a dose-dependent manner in animal and human cells, including epithelial cells, fibroblasts, osteoblasts, hepatocytes, and astrocytes; at high concentrations, it is cytotoxic. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid protect liver tissue from carbon tetrachloride. Glycyrrhizic Acid has been used to treat chronic hepatitis, inhibiting the penetration of the hepatitis A virus into hepatocytes. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid have anti-inflammatory effects in rats and mice. The acute intraperitoneal LD(50) for Glycyrrhetinic Acid in mice was 308 mg/kg and the oral LD(50) was > 610 mg/kg. The oral LD(50) in rats was reported to be 610 mg/kg. Higher LD(50) values were generally reported for salts. Little short-term, subchronic, or chronic toxicity was seen in rats given ammonium, dipotassium, or disodium salts of Glycyrrhizic Acid. Glycyrrhetinic Acid was not irritating to shaved rabbit skin, but was considered slightly irritating in an in vitro test. Glycyrrhetinic Acid inhibited the mutagenic activity of benzo[a]pyrene and inhibited tumor initiation and promotion by other agents in mice. Glycyrrhizic Acid inhibited tumor initiation by another agent, but did not prevent tumor promotion in mice. Glycyrrhizic Acid delayed mortality in mice injected with Erlich ascites tumor cells, but did not reduce the mortality rate. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate was not genotoxic in in vivo and in vitro cytogenetics assays, the dominant lethal assay, an Ames assay, and heritable translocation tests, except for possible increase in dominant lethal mutations in rats given 2000 mg/kg day(-1) in their diet. Disodium Glycyrrhizate was not carcinogenic in mice in a drinking water study at exposure levels up to 12.2 mg/kg day(-1) for 96 weeks. Glycyrrhizate salts produced no reproductive or developmental toxicity in rats, mice, golden hamsters, or Dutch-belted rabbits, except for a dose-dependent increase (at 238.8 and 679.9 mg/kg day(-1)) in sternebral variants in a study using rats. Sedation, hypnosis, hypothermia, and respiratory depression were seen in mice given 1250 mg/kg Glycyrrhetinic Acid intraperitoneally. Rats fed a powdered diet containing up to 4% Ammonium Glycyrrhizate had no treatment related effects in motor function tests, but active avoidance was facilitated at 4%, unaffected at 3%, and depressed at 2%. In a study of 39 healthy volunteers, a no effect level of 2 mg/kg/day was determined for Glycyrrhizic Acid given orally for 8 weeks. Clinical tests in seven normal individuals given oral Ammonium Glycyrrhizate at 6 g/day for 3 days revealed reduced renal and thermal sweat excretion of Na+ and K+, but carbohydrate and protein metabolism were not affected. Glycyrrhetinic Acid at concentrations up to 6% was not a skin irritant or a sensitizer in clinical tests. Neither Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, nor Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate at 5% were phototoxic agents or photosensitizers. Birth weight and maternal blood pressure were unrelated to the level of consumption of Glycyrrhizic Acid in 1049 Finnish women with infants, but babies whose mother consumed > 500 mg/wk were more likely to be born before 38 weeks. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel noted that the ingredients in this safety assessment are not plant extracts, powders, or juices, but rather are specific chemical species that may be isolated from the licorice plant. Because these chemicals may be isolated from plant sources, however, steps should be taken to assure that pesticide and toxic metal residues are below acceptable levels. The Panel advised the industry that total polychlorobiphenyl (PCB)/pesticide contamination should be limited to not more than 40 ppm, with not more than 10 ppm for any specific residue, and that toxic metal levels must not contain more than 3 mg/kg of arsenic (as As), not more than 0.002% heavy metals, and not more than 1 mg/kg of lead (as Pb). Although the Panel noted that Glycyrrhizic Acid is cytotoxic at high doses and ingestion can have physiological effects, there is little acute, short-term, subchronic, or chronic toxicity and it is expected that these ingredients would be poorly absorbed through the skin. These ingredients are not considered to be irritants, sensitizers, phototoxic agents, or photosensitizers at the current maximum concentration of use. Accordingly, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the current practices of use and concentration. The Panel recognizes that certain ingredients in this group are reportedly used in a given product category, but the concentration of use is not available. For other ingredients in this group, information regarding use concentration for specific product categories is provided, but the number of such products is not known. In still other cases, an ingredient is not in current use, but may be used in the future. Although there are gaps in knowledge about product use, the overall information available on the types of products in which these ingredients are used and at what concentration indicate a pattern of use. Within this overall pattern of use, the Expert Panel considers all ingredients in this group to be safe.

Subungual Penetration of Dibutyl Phthalate in Human Fingernails

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) has a wide variety of manufacturing applications and is used in both commercial and consumer products. Results of animal reproductive toxicity and teratogenicity animal studies have not been consistent in identifying DBP as a reproductive toxicant. Expert reviews for its use in consumer products have consistently concluded that it is not a reproductive risk to consumers. Results from a subungual penetration study of 100% fluid DBP applied to human fingernails showed levels of penetration at the limits of chemical detection. Even if DBP penetrated the human fingernail, its rapid metabolism by the human body would prevent its having any toxic reproductive effects. Furthermore, DBP functions as a plasticizer in consumer products such as cosmetic nail products (nail polish, basecoats, topcoats, nail hardeners), resulting in its becoming unavailable for subungual penetration seconds after application of the cosmetic nail product since it is then trapped in the rapidly forming coating.

Assessment of principal parabens used in cosmetics after their passage through human epidermis-dermis layers (ex-vivo study)

Concern is continuously raised about the safety of parabens which are present in most of the cosmetic preparations. In this investigation, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butyl paraben (MP, EP, PP, BP), in a commercial cosmetic lotion, were deposited on human skin fragments, collected after surgical operations. Permeated parabens were determined after their passage through human epidermis-dermis layers, fixed on Franz diffusion cells. Bovine serum albumin (3%) was employed as receptor fluid. Then, parabens were assessed by liquid chromatography. The objective of this research was to determine the permeation of these molecules through human epidermis-dermis layers, and their possible passage to body tissues and/or accumulation in skin layers. Two groups of experiments were performed. In the first experimental group (G1), unique doses of the cosmetic were deposited on skin fragments fixed on Franz cells (n = 6), at time 0 h, followed with different withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. G1 results demonstrated that parabens penetration was influenced by their lipophilicity: more lipophilic the parabens were (BP > PP > EP > MP), less they crossed the skin layers (BP < PP < EP < MP). The second experimental group (G2) was constituted of three equal deposits on each Franz cell (n = 6) at different hour times 0, 12 and 24 h followed with three withdrawn times of the receptor fluid at 12, 24 and 36 h. The G2 results indicated that investigated parabens had significant increasing permeations in skin layers. This situation provokes the accumulation of these molecules which were considered by some authors as the cause of skin toxicities and carcinogenicity.

In vitro dermal absorption and metabolism of D&C red no. 17 in human and porcineskin

D&C red no. 17 is approved for use in externally applied drug and cosmetic applications, in amounts consistent with good manufacturing practice. Concerns about the safety of the color additive (1-[4-phenylazophenylazo]-2-napthol (PAN) is the primary color constituent) have been raised due to potential metabolic cleavage of PAN to yield 4-aminoazobenzene. (14)C-PAN was applied in a commercially available suntan vehicle containing D&C red no. 17 to viable porcine and non-viable (cadaver) human skin in flow-through diffusion cells. At the end of 24 h, unabsorbed material was removed from the skin and some cells were allowed to continue for an additional 48 h. In human skin, 0.07% and 0.17% of the applied dose were absorbed into the receptor fluid after 24 and 72 h, respectively. At the end of 24 h, 12.5% of the applied dose remained in the skin, which did not decrease at 72 h. When PAN was applied to viable porcine skin for 24 h, 0.3% of the applied dose was absorbed and 12.7% remained in the skin. Additional studies to simulate short-term exposure were completed with PAN applied to the skin for only 15 min, and absorption was determined for 24 and 72 h. These studies in human cadaver skin found 0.02% and 0.08% of the applied dose in the receptor fluid after 24 and 72 h, respectively. Viable porcine skin studies with the 15-min application resulted in receptor fluid values of 0.1% of the applied dose after 24 h. Lipophilic receptor fluids composed of the non-ionic surfactant Volpo 20 at wt% concentrations of 1%, 3%, or 6% in water did not increase partitioning of PAN from the skin into the receptor fluid. No metabolism of PAN was found in viable porcine skin when examined by HPLC. In conclusion, skin absorption of PAN from a commercially available suntan product was low.

Optical investigations to avoid the disturbing influences of furrows and wrinkles quantifying penetration of drugs and cosmetics into the skin by tape stripping

Furrows and wrinkles, as typical structures of human skin, represent a reservoir for topically applied substances. This reservoir can influence penetration experiments of topically applied substances into the stratum corneum by tape stripping. Optical methods such as laser-scanning microscopy, optical coherent tomography, and the microscopical investigation of histological sections obtained by biopsies were used to check a special protocol, which avoids these potential disturbances. The use of a transparent adhesive film with high flexibility and the realization of an intense contact to the stretched skin by pressing the tape with a roll, moved laterally on the tape, are the prerequisites to obtain correct data. The application of this experimental technique and the performance of tape stripping allow the determination of the horny layer profile and the local distribution of topically applied substance, undisturbed by the characteristic structure of the natural skin. These results demonstrate that the presented tape stripping procedure is a valuable tool to determine, quantitatively, the penetration and the bioavailability of drugs and cosmetics inside the human stratum corneum, in relation to the horny layer profile.

In vivo comparison of various liposome formulations for cosmetic application☆

The interaction of liposome formulations, prepared with phospholipids of different origins (egg and soya), with skin were compared in terms of their effects on skin water content, skin barrier function, and skin elasticity. Short-term effect of four different liposome formulations and two references during 3.5 h was investigated non-occlusively on the volar side of the forearm of 10 volunteers, ranging in age from 24 to 32 years. Liposomes composed of different phospholipids showed differing effects on skin humidity. The maximal effect was achieved within 30 min and constant values were reached after 1.5 h for all formulations, however values remained significantly higher than without treatment (p<0.05) during the whole application time. The best results were obtained with liposome formulations prepared from egg phospholipids, which exhibited a 1.5-fold increase in skin water content (p<0.05), whereas liposome formulations prepared from soya phospholipids showed no advantage compared to the references. Skin barrier function showed greatest influence within 30 min after application and remained constant after 1.5 h for all formulations. Within the liposome formulations, egg phospholipids showed the highest transepidermal water loss values during the first 30 min, representing the strongest interactions with the skin barrier function, whereas for the other liposome formulations lower transepidermal water loss values were measured. Skin elasticity and tiring effect of the skin was not influenced by any of the formulations, due to the young skin tested. Long-term effect of two different liposome formulations mixed with base cream DAC in two different concentrations during 14 days was investigated non-occlusively on the volar side of the forearm of 10 volunteers, ranging in age from 20 to 25 years. Skin water content was measured daily and the results showed that skin humidity was increased significantly (p<0.05) for the formulation containing 20% egg phospholipids during 6 days. Liposome formulations prepared with egg phospholipids showed significantly higher (p<0.01) hydration effects during 3.5 h of application on human skin compared with liposome formulations prepared with soya phospholipids.

Fragrance material review on cinnamic acid

A toxicologic and dermatologic review of cinnamic acid when used as a fragrance ingredient is presented.

Fragrance material review on cinnamyl alcohol

A toxicologic and dermatologic review of cinnamyl alcohol when used as a fragrance ingredient is presented.

Comparison of cutaneous bioavailability of cosmetic preparations containing caffeine or alpha-tocopherol applied on human skin models or human skin ex vivo at finite doses

The use of human skin models for performing cutaneous bioavailability studies has been little investigated. For instance, only few studies have been reported on human skin models dealing with vehicle effects on percutaneous penetration. The present study aimed at evaluating the influence on caffeine's and alpha-tocopherol's cutaneous bioavailability of cosmetic vehicles such as a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a liposome dispersion and a hydrogel applied at finite dose using the reconstructed human skin models EpiDerm and Episkin. The results were compared with those obtained in human skin ex vivo using similar experimental conditions. It was demonstrated that the rank order of solute permeability could be correctly predicted when the preparation was applied at a finite dose in human skin models, at least when solutes with far different physicochemical properties such as caffeine and alpha-tocopherol were used. If only slight effects of cosmetic vehicle on skin bioavailability were observed in human skin ex vivo, they were less predictable using skin models. Especially, alcohol-containing vehicles seemed to behave differently in EpiDerm as well as in Episkin than on human skin ex vivo. Stratum corneum intercellular lipid composition and organization of human skin models differ to some extent from that of human stratum corneum ex vivo, which contributes to less pronounced barrier properties, together with the increased hydration of the outermost stratum corneum layers of the models. These features, as well as still unknown factors, may explain the differences observed in vehicle effects in human skin ex vivo versus human skin models.

Sucrose cocoate, a component of cosmetic preparations, enhances nasal and ocular peptide absorption

Sucrose cocoate (SL-40), an emulsifier employed in emollient, skin-moisturizing cosmetic formulations, contains a mixture of sucrose esters of coconut fatty acids in aqueous ethanol solution. In order to determine its potential utility in enhancing nasal and ocular drug delivery, absorption studies were performed in anesthetized Sprague-Dawley male rats with calcitonin and insulin, two distinct therapeutic peptides. Administration of a nasal insulin formulation containing 0.5% sucrose cocoate caused a rapid and significant increase in plasma insulin levels, with a concomitant decrease in blood glucose levels. When insulin was administered ocularly in the presence of 0.5% sucrose cocoate, a smaller increase in plasma insulin levels, and a decrease in blood glucose levels, were observed. Administration of a nasal calcitonin formulation containing 0.5% sucrose cocoate caused a rapid increase in plasma calcitonin levels and a concomitant decrease in plasma calcium levels. Mass spectrometric analyses were used to characterize the nature of the sucrose fatty acid esters in the mixture. The most abundant sucrose ester in sucrose cocoate was sucrose monododecanoate, with smaller amounts of sucrose monodecanoate and sucrose monotetradecanoate. In vivo experiments confirmed that this ester was an effective enhancer of nasal peptide drug absorption.

Liposomes

Robert Posner has 40 years of experience in skin care bench chemistry, product development, and sales and marketing. Working closely with dermatologists and plastic surgeons, Posner is a former member of the NY State Hospital Pharmacists Association, the American Pharmaceutical Association, and the American Association of Hospital Pharmacists. Currently, Posner sits on the Board of Directors of EMDA (Esthetic Manufacturers and Distributors Association). Posner has written numerous articles for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Magazine, is presently a consultant for Day Spa Magazine, and had been one of only two non-dermatologists on a consultant basis with Cosmetic Dermatology Journal. Posner's company--ABBE Cosmetic Group International in Farmingdale, NY--formulates and manufactures skin care products for many well-known companies in the beauty industry. For many years, both the bench chemist and the dermatologist have been concerned with developing an ideal base for deliverance of 'actives' to the human epidermis. As is common knowledge, the skin is a protective organ which allows very few materials to penetrate. Some bases are unable to work effectively because of their relative inability to penetrate the stratum corneum; for example, some notable actives such as collagen and elastin are molecules too large to penetrate effectively. With the liposome at our command however, we can carry and then release an active into several layers of epidermis. We can release both oil- and water-soluble actives, and at the same time control the feel and effectiveness of a topical application. This article will examine the liposome: what it is, how it works, and how products made with liposomes can benefit dermatology.

A preliminary study of the dermal absorption of aluminium from antiperspirants using aluminium-26

Aluminium chlorohydrate (ACH), the active ingredient in many antiperspirants, was labeled with the radioisotope 26Al. The labeled ACH was then fractionated into about 100 samples using gel filtration chromatography. Each fraction was analyzed for 26Al and total aluminium content. Aluminium-26 was only detected in the fractions that also contained aluminium, which verified that the ACH was uniformly labeled. 84 mg of the labeled ACH was then applied to a single underarm of two adult subjects with blood and urine samples being collected over 7 weeks. Tape-stripping and mild washings of the skin were also collected for the first 6 days. Results indicate that only 0.012% of the applied aluminium was absorbed through the skin. At this rate, about 4 microg of aluminium is absorbed from a single use of ACH on both underarms. This is about 2.5% of the aluminium typically absorbed by the gut from food over the same time period. Therefore, a one-time use of ACH applied to the skin is not a significant contribution to the body burden of aluminium.

Assessing the bioactivity of cosmetic products and ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients can produce physical effects on the skin as well as positive and negative bioactive effects. Such effects have now been identified, categorized and interpreted. Because of this ongoing research and increased understanding, cosmetics, especially skin care products, are being improved. Targeting specific bioactive effects from newly developed cosmetic products is now possible. This development is aided by refining and expanding existing instrumental analysis which is now capable of elucidating more detailed and statistically significant differences from the use of certain ingredients in cosmetics. However, the ultimate proof of these changes will remain the consumer response to such products. Physical effects and the positive and negative bioactive effects from specific cosmetic ingredients will be discussed in relationship to the anatomy, physiology and condition of human skin. Examples of selected cosmetic ingredients in relationship to the anatomy, physiology and condition of human skin will be given. Demonstrations of selected cosmetic ingredient effects will be by way of clinical observation, instrumental analysis and consumer evaluation.

Accumulation of sunscreens and other compounds in keratinous substrates

Several cosmetic ingredients, especially sunscreens, should be substantive, which means they are to be adsorbed to specific binding sites within the upper skin layers, particularly keratinized structures of the stratum corneum, and thus show resistance to washing off. We investigated the affinity of 10 non-ionic compounds, among these UV-absorbing chemicals, antioxidants, antimicrobial compounds and a repellent to animal keratin and human callus. In each case a linear relationship between the drug amount, which has accumulated in the respective keratin, and the remaining free concentration of the applied solution could be established. Moreover, drug affinities to keratinous substrates are in direct proportion to the octanol/vehicle partition coefficients, pointing to the fact, that drug enrichment in keratinic substrates is clearly governed by lipophilicity, while specific adsorption, i.e. genuine substantivity, does not seem to occur. After application of a saturated solution non-ionic compounds with a pronounced keratin/vehicle partition coefficient will build up the highest concentration within the stratum corneum. If these compounds show, at the same time, a high solubility in the vehicle, they will penetrate the skin most easily. The used callous tissue seems to be a suitable substrate to simulate and quantify solute uptake into human skin.

Guidelines for safety evaluation of cosmetics ingredients in the EC countries

The Scientific Committee on Cosmetology (SCC) of the Commission of the European Communities was established in 1978 to assist the Commission in the application of the 76/768 Directive, which regulates the production and marketing of cosmetics products. The Committee has been asked to update the general guidelines, defined in 1982, for testing cosmetics ingredients with the aim of ensuring consumers' safety. In the present paper the full document approved by the SCC in October 1990 is reported. This new document is based on the experience of the Committee over the last 10 years, during which more than 400 cosmetics ingredients have been evaluated. The document also highlights the need to proceed to define standard methods to be used to assess dermal absorption and phototoxicity--areas in which international guidelines have not yet been approved. The document also includes some comments made by the author in order to explain better the position of the Committee in relation to certain items.

Ciclopirox nail lacquer 8%: in vivo penetration into and through nails and in vitro effect on pig skin

This report presents original methods to assess the bioavailability of an antifungal drug from a varnish preparation in finger nails. For the studies with human volunteers a ciclopirox 8% nail lacquer was used to determine its efficacy in the treatment of onychomycoses. In vivo studies were performed on the fingernails of healthy volunteers by determining the total amount of ciclopirox penetrated per milligram of nail and the partition of the drug in the plate of the nails (technically divided into four layers). Ciclopirox concentrations were evaluated by measuring the inhibition of Candida pseudotropicalis growth in vitro. The ciclopirox concentration after 30 days treatment was determined as 3.35 +/- 0.82 micrograms/mg nail material. This is a sufficient amount to kill the fungal pathogens. In addition, in vitro penetration experiments were carried out with excised pig skin. Lacquer formulations from 0.5 to 8% were used to inhibit the growth of Trichophyton mentagrophytes. Formulations from 2 to 8% led to a strong to total inhibition of the dermatophyte after 30 min treatment time.

[Modern cosmetic agents and evidence of their function]

Fluorometers modified by quartz light conductors allow the recording of the skin-intrinsic fluorescence. Signals assigned to the aromatic amino acids permit a prognosis concerning the sensitivity of untreated skin to light and the sunscreen factor to be expected after the application of UV filters. We discuss the microdistribution and skin penetration of UV filters and describe the utilization of the image analysis technique both for the count and size determination of fluorescent sebaceous glands and for the quantification of the effects of antiperspirants. Based both on the selective increase of efficacy of deodorant soaps, analytically controlled, and on the differences of the deodorizing effects found in various test groups, we discuss the possibilities of improving deodorants.