Green tea and skin

The combination of allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate mitigates UVB-induced PGE2 synthesis by keratinocytes

OBJECTIVE

Erythema, characterized by the redness of the skin, is a common skin reaction triggered by various endogenous and exogenous factors. This response is often a result of the activation of underlying inflammatory mechanisms within the skin. The objective of this study is to investigate the potential benefits of applying a combination of skincare ingredients, namely allantoin, bisabolol, D-panthenol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (AB5D), in the modulation of inflammatory factors associated with erythema. Additionally, the study aims to elucidate the mechanisms by which these ingredients exert their combined actions to alleviate erythema-associated inflammation.

METHODS

Human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to UVB and subsequently treated with AB5D. Transcriptomics profiling was performed to analyse the dose-response effect of AB5D treatment on keratinocytes. The quantitation of inflammatory mediators, including PGE2 , IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα, was performed on cultured media. Additionally, the oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) assay was carried out to evaluate the total antioxidant capacity of both individual ingredients and the AB5D combination. To assess the in-vitro antioxidant effects of AB5D against UVB-induced oxidative stress in hTERT keratinocytes, real-time quantitation of mitochondrial superoxide was measured through live-cell imaging.

RESULTS

The application of AB5D to UVB-exposed keratinocytes downregulated gene sets associated with inflammatory responses, highlighting the anti-inflammatory properties of AB5D. Specifically, AB5D effectively reduced the production of PGE2 , leading to the downregulation of inflammatory cytokines. Moreover, our findings indicate that AB5D exhibits antioxidative capabilities, functioning as both an antioxidant agent and a regulator of antioxidant enzyme expression to counteract the detrimental effects of cellular oxidative stress.

CONCLUSION

We demonstrated that AB5D can reduce UVB-induced PGE2 , IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, IL-1RA and TNFα as well as mitochondrial superoxide. These findings suggest that AB5D may alleviate erythema by modulating inflammation via PGE2 and through antioxidation mechanisms.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Taxifolin as a Promising Ingredient of Cosmetics for Adult Skin

Active substances, effective in the reduction in or delay of skin changes caused by aging occurring in natural compounds, are desirable. Taxifolin (TXF), a flavonoid of strong antioxidant activity found in the plant Stizolophus balsamita (S. balsamita), has been tested for its biological effects on adult human skin. The aim of the study was to investigate the effects of two creams: 3% S. balsamita extract and 3% TXF on the function of adult skin. In total, 97 Caucasian women with clinical signs of skin aging were investigated. The biophysical and biomechanical skin parameters were measured before and after applying the creams, using Colorimeter CL400, Mexameter MX16, Skin-pH-Meter PH900, Skin-Thermometer ST 500, Glossymeter GL200, and Cutiscan SC100. Patch tests were performed with the investigated products to assess their potential irritant properties. The percutaneous penetration of creams was examined with the use of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and confocal Raman spectroscopy. The 3% S. balsamita extract cream reduced hyperpigmentation, erythema, and elevated pH. All the tested preparations were proven to be nonirritant. A higher penetration rate was revealed for the 3% TXF cream than for the 3% S. balsamita extract cream. A total of 3% TXF cream improved skin viscoelasticity. The obtained results suggested that S. balsamita extract and TXF may be considered as ingredients of skincare products for adults.

Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.

Plant Polyphenols: Natural and Potent UV-Protective Agents for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin Disorders

Nowadays, destructive and immunosuppressive effects from long-term exposure to UV radiation have been fully investigated and documented in the literature. UV radiation is known as the main cause of skin aging and carcinogenesis. Hence, skin protection against anti-oxidative and immunosuppressive processes is highly in demand. Now, plant polyphenols have been found as a versatile and natural tool for the prevention and treatment of various skin diseases. The presence of a large number of hydroxyl groups in the cyclic structure of polyphenols has induced valuable biological activities. Among them, their UV protective activity has attracted lots of attention due to promising efficacy and simple instruction to use.

The role of a cosmetologist in the area of health promotion and health education: A systematic review

Background: Contemporary cosmetology, apart from beautifying and caring for the human body, deals also with prevention aimed at maintaining health and physical fitness as long as possible. The profession of a cosmetologist so understood is closely related to the modern concept of health promotion, the part of which is health education. The objective of this review was to evaluate whether a cosmetologist may be a health promoter, and whether a beauty salon mayserve as a place for conducting educational programs.

Methods: A systematic review was done using several electronic databases such as PubMed(including MEDLINE), Web of Science Core Collection, Scopus, Embase, and Academic Search Ultimate (EBSCO) and related keywords. The studies published in English between 2008 and 2018 which had specifically mentioned the role of a cosmetologist in the area of health promotion and health education were included.

Results: In total, 7 articles met the study criteria. It was found that cosmetologists have the potential to promote pro-health activities. The results of this review also suggest that beauty salons are suitable places for increasing pro-health awareness and can be successfully used to conduct educational programs about healthy lifestyle, as well as skin, breast and cervical cancer prevention.

Conclusion: A well-educated and aware of health risks cosmetologist seems to be the right person to transmit and spread knowledge about the proper lifestyle in her workplace and the local environment. A beauty salon, as a place of social interaction, may constitute an area of implementation of pro-health educational programs.

Innovative Skin Product Emulsions with Enhanced Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and UV Protection Properties Containing Nanoparticles of Pure and Modified Chitosan with Encapsulated Fresh Pomegranate Juice

In the present study, a chitosan (CS) derivative with the 2-(Methacryloyloxy)ethyl]dimethyl-(3-sulfopropyl)ammonium hydroxide (SDAEM) zwitterionic monomer was prepared through chemical modification. The successful synthesis of CS-SDAEM was confirmed by Fourier-transform Infrared (FTIR) and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (¹H-NMR) spectroscopies. Its crystallinity was studied by X-ray Diffraction (XRD), while in vitro cytotoxicity and cell viability assays established its biocompatibility. Filtered fresh pomegranate juice (PJ) was loaded in nanoparticles of neat CS and its derivative via ionic gelation method. Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) revealed nanoparticles sizes varying between 426 nm and 4.5 μm, indicating a size-dependence on the polymer concentration used during encapsulation. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with photodiode array and electrospray ionization mass spectrometry detection (LC-PDA-ESI/MS) revealed that PJ active compounds were successfully and in sufficient amounts encapsulated in the nanoparticles interior, whereas XRD indicated a crystalline structure alteration after nanoencapsulation. The resulted PJ-loaded nanoparticles were further utilized for the preparation of innovative O/W cosmetic emulsions. All produced emulsions exhibited good pH and viscosity stability for up to 90 days, while the sun protection factor (SPF) was enhanced due to the presence of the PJ. Enhanced antioxidant and antimicrobial properties due to the phenolic compounds of PJ were also observed.

New Herbal Biomedicines for the Topical Treatment of Dermatological Disorders

Herbal extracts and isolated plant compounds play an increasing role in the treatment of skin disorders and wounds. Several new herbal drugs, medicinal products and cosmetic products for the treatment of various skin conditions have been developed in recent years. In this nonsystematic review, we focus on herbal drugs that were tested in controlled clinical studies or in scientifically sound preclinical studies. The herbal biomedicines are intended to treat atopic dermatitis (St. John's wort, licorice, tormentil, bitter substances, evening primrose), psoriasis (araroba tree, lace flower, barberry bark, indigo, turmeric, olibanum, St. John's wort), actinic keratosis (birch bark, petty spurge), herpes simplex (lemon balm, sage and rhubarb), rosacea (green tea, licorice, tormentil) and acne vulgaris (tea tree oil, green tea, hop), or to improve photo protection (green tea, Dyer's weed, cocoa tree, carotinoids, licorice), aesthetic dermatology (licorice, pine bark, gotu kola) and wound healing (birch bark, onion).

Hydration and Barrier Properties of Emulsions with the Addition of Keratin Hydrolysate

Although keratin hydrolysates (KH) are added to skin care agents, detailed studies on the moisturising effects of KH are lacking. The aim of this study is to test whether adding KH into an ointment base (OB) heighten hydration of the skin and diminish transepidermal loss of water (TEWL). Formulations containing 2%, 4%, and 6% of KH (based on OB weight) were prepared. Hydration, TEWL and skin pH were measured; intervals of measurements were as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 24 and 48 h. Testing was carried out on 10 men. In terms of hydration, supplementing the OB with 2% KH is optimal, as an 11–19% increase occurs in hydration of stratum corneum (SC). All the formulations with added KH as tested caused TEWL to decline after application. Keratin hydrolysate makes for an excellent occlusive; adding it to OB results in a 30–50% reduction in TEWL after application. KH functions as a humectant as well, as it helps to bind water from the lower layers of the epidermis to the SC. Formulations with additions of 2–6% of KH were stable in structure and did not cause phase separation even after 6 months storage.

Natural Antioxidants: Multiple Mechanisms to Protect Skin From Solar Radiation

Human skin exposed to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) results in a dramatic increase in the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The sudden increase in ROS shifts the natural balance toward a pro-oxidative state, resulting in oxidative stress. The detrimental effects of oxidative stress occur through multiple mechanisms that involve alterations to proteins and lipids, induction of inflammation, immunosuppression, DNA damage, and activation of signaling pathways that affect gene transcription, cell cycle, proliferation, and apoptosis. All of these alterations promote carcinogenesis and therefore, regulation of ROS levels is critical to the maintenance of normal skin homeostasis. Several botanical products have been found to exhibit potent antioxidant capacity and the ability to counteract UV-induced insults to the skin. These natural products exert their beneficial effects through multiple pathways, including some known to be negatively affected by solar UVR. Aging of the skin is also accelerated by UVR exposure, in particular UVA rays that penetrate deep into the epidermis and the dermis where it causes the degradation of collagen and elastin fibers via oxidative stress and activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Because natural compounds are capable of attenuating some of the UV-induced aging effects in the skin, increased attention has been generated in the area of cosmetic sciences. The focus of this review is to cover the most prominent phytoproducts with potential to mitigate the deleterious effects of solar UVR and suitability for use in topical application.

Phytochemicals in Skin Cancer Prevention and Treatment: An Updated Review

Skin is the largest human organ, our protection against various environmental assaults and noxious agents. Accumulation of these stress events may lead to the formation of skin cancers, including both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Although modern targeted therapies have ameliorated the management of cutaneous malignancies, a safer, more affordable, and more effective strategy for chemoprevention and treatment is clearly needed for the improvement of skin cancer care. Phytochemicals are biologically active compounds derived from plants and herbal products. These agents appear to be beneficial in the battle against cancer as they exert anti-carcinogenic effects and are widely available, highly tolerated, and cost-effective. Evidence has indicated that the anti-carcinogenic properties of phytochemicals are due to their anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative, and anti-angiogenic effects. In this review, we discuss the preventive potential, therapeutic effects, bioavailability, and structure–activity relationship of these selected phytochemicals for the management of skin cancers. The knowledge compiled here will provide clues for future investigations on novel oncostatic phytochemicals and additional anti-skin cancer mechanisms.

Liposomal Formulations for an Efficient Encapsulation of Epigallocatechin-3-gallate: An in- Silico/Experimental Approach

As a part of research project aimed to optimize antioxidant delivery, here we studied the influence of both salts and lipid matrix composition on the interaction of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) with bilayer leaflets. Thus, we combined in silico and experimental methods to study the ability of neutral and anionic vesicles to encapsulate EGCG in the presence of Ca²⁺ and Mg²⁺ divalent salts. Experimental and in silico results show a very high correlation, thus confirming the efficiency of the developed methodology. In particular, we found out that the presence of calcium ions hinders the insertion of EGCG in the liposome bilayer in both neutral and anionic systems. On the contrary, the presence of MgCl₂ improves the insertion degree of EGCG molecules respect to the liposomes without divalent salts. The best and most efficient salt concentration is that corresponding to a 5:1 molar ratio between Mg²⁺ and EGCG, in both neutral and anionic vesicles. Concerning the lipid matrix composition, the anionic one results in better promotion of the catechin insertion within the bilayer since experimentally we achieved 100% EGCG encapsulation in the lipid carrier in the presence of a 5:1 molar ratio of magnesium. Thus, the combination of this anionic liposomal formulation with magnesium chloride, avoids time-consuming separation steps of unentrapped active principle and appears particularly suitable for EGCG delivery applications.

Amorphous Solid Dispersion of Epigallocatechin Gallate for Enhanced Physical Stability and Controlled Release

Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) has been recognized as the most prominent green tea extract due to its healthy influences. The high instability and low bioavailability, however, strongly limit its utilization in food and drug industries. This work, for the first time, develops amorphous solid dispersion of EGCG to enhance its bioavailability and physical stability. Four commonly used polymeric excipients are found to be compatible with EGCG in water-dioxane mixtures via a stepwise mixing method aided by vigorous mechanical interference. The dispersions are successfully generated by lyophilization. The physical stability of the dispersions is significantly improved compared to pure amorphous EGCG in stress condition (elevated temperature and relative humidity) and simulated gastrointestinal tract environment. From the drug release tests, one of the dispersions, EGCG-Soluplus^® 50:50 (w/w) shows a dissolution profile that only 50% EGCG is released in the first 20 min, and the remains are slowly released in 24 h. This sustained release profile may open up new possibilities to increase EGCG bioavailability via extending its elimination time in plasma.

A Randomized Controlled Trial of Green Tea Beverages on the in vivo Radical Scavenging Activity in Human Skin

BACKGROUND

Oxidative stress plays an important role in the pathogenesis of various skin diseases. Thus, the antioxidant network of the skin relies on the uptake of exogenous antioxidants to ensure cell protection against radical formation. Green tea is one of the main sources of polyphenolic antioxidant compounds, but only few data are available on its cutaneous antioxidant effects.

METHODS

The radical scavenging properties of Benifuuki and Yabukita green tea were investigated in the human skin. Thirty-two participants who met the inclusion criteria were randomized to consume 3 cups per day of either Benifuuki tea, Yabukita tea, or water (control group) for 2 weeks. Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was applied to measure the radical scavenging capacity of the skin in vivo before and after the intervention.

RESULTS

Both Yabukita and Benifuuki tea led to an increase in the radical scavenging activity of the skin by 28 and 29%, respectively, and the difference was significant when compared to the control group. Benifuuki tea, previously reported to be superior in bioavailability due to a highly absorbable methylated catechin, did not prove to be more effective than the common Yabukita tea.

CONCLUSION

The results show that green tea enhances the radical scavenging capacity of the skin and support the hypothesis that green tea may offer protection against cutaneous oxidative stress.

The anti-photoaging effect of antioxidant collagen peptides from silver carp (Hypophthalmichthys molitrix) skin is preferable to tea polyphenols and casein peptides

Applying antioxidants to attenuate skin photoaging has received great attention. In this study, antioxidant collagen peptides (ACPs) with different activities were prepared using different proteases, called high (HCP), medium (MCP) and low antioxidant collagen peptides (LCP). The effects of ACPs, tea polyphenols (TP) and casein peptides (CP) on the photoaged skin of mice were evaluated and compared. Ingestion of ACPs significantly alleviated UV-induced abnormal alterations of skin components and antioxidative indicators in both serum and skin (p < 0.05). In addition, HCP had the best effect on protecting skin from photoaging among the three collagen peptides, with no significant differences between MCP and LCP (p > 0.05). TP and CP, with higher antioxidant activity in vitro, only significantly increased hydroxyproline content (only in the TP group) and CAT activity and decreased protein carbonyl content at week 2, showing a much weaker effect than that of the ACP groups. The histological analysis result further demonstrates that ACPs exerted a stronger beneficial effect on normalizing skin structure and collagen arrangement than TP and CP. Accordingly, ACPs have potential for nutraceuticals as anti-skin-photoaging ingredients.

Camellia sinensis increased apoptosis on U2OS osteosarcoma cells and wound healing potential on NIH3T3 fibroblast cells

Camellia sinensis (Cs) is a plant which is rich in polyphenols and has antioxidant, antiinflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic and antibacterial activities. In this study, two different methanol extracts (Cs-I and Cs-II) were prepared from the leaf of C. sinensis in order to investigate the wound healing and anticancer activities. Total phenolic content and antioxidant activity of the extracts were determined. Wound healing effects of Cs extracts were evaluated by using Masson's Trichrome Tecnique on NIH3T3 fibroblast cells. Cytotoxic and apoptotic effects of the extracts were determined by MTT and AnnexinV-PI assays on U2OS osteosarcoma cells. Total phenolic contents and antioxidant activities of the extracts were almost the same. The highest concentration (60 µg/mL) of the extracts showed significant cytotoxic and apoptotic effects on U2OS cells. Especially, the highest apoptotic effect was determined with 60 µg/mL Cs-I extract. Significant wound healing potential on NIH3T3 fibroblast cells were determined especially with low extract concentrations (0.5, 1 and 5 µg/mL), while high extract concentrations showed significant anticancer effects. As a result, two Cs leaf extracts exhibited important apoptotic properties and both have wound healing potential. However, the Cs-I extract was found more effective on apoptotic osteosarcoma cell death and has an increased wound healing potential than the Cs-II extract.

Emerging Phytochemicals for the Prevention and Treatment of Head and Neck Cancer

Despite the development of more advanced medical therapies, cancer management remains a problem. Head and neck squamous cell carcinoma (HNSCC) is a particularly challenging malignancy and requires more effective treatment strategies and a reduction in the debilitating morbidities associated with the therapies. Phytochemicals have long been used in ancient systems of medicine, and non-toxic phytochemicals are being considered as new options for the effective management of cancer. Here, we discuss the growth inhibitory and anti-cell migratory actions of proanthocyanidins from grape seeds (GSPs), polyphenols in green tea and honokiol, derived from the Magnolia species. Studies of these phytochemicals using human HNSCC cell lines from different sub-sites have demonstrated significant protective effects against HNSCC in both in vitro and in vivo models. Treatment of human HNSCC cell lines with GSPs, (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a polyphenolic component of green tea or honokiol reduced cell viability and induced apoptosis. These effects have been associated with inhibitory effects of the phytochemicals on the epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR), and cell cycle regulatory proteins, as well as other major tumor-associated pathways. Similarly, the cell migration capacity of HNSCC cell lines was inhibited. Thus, GSPs, honokiol and EGCG appear to be promising bioactive phytochemicals for the management of head and neck cancer.

The potential role of polyphenols in the modulation of skin cell viability by Aspalathus linearis and Cyclopia spp. herbal tea extracts in vitro

OBJECTIVES

The relationship between polyphenol constituents, antioxidant properties of aqueous and methanol extracts of green tea (Camellia sinensis), the herbal teas, rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) and honeybush (Cyclopia spp.), against skin cell viability was investigated in vitro.

METHODS

The effect of extracts, characterised in terms of polyphenol content and antioxidant properties, on cell viability of premalignant, normal and malignant skin cells was determined.

KEY FINDINGS

Phenolic composition, particularly high levels of potent antioxidants, of rooibos and green tea methanol extracts was associated with a strong reduction in cell viability specifically targeting premalignant cells. In contrast, the aqueous extracts of Cyclopia spp. were more effective in reducing cell viability. This correlated with a relatively high flavanol/proanthocyanidin content and ABTS radical cation scavenging capacity. The major green tea flavanol (epigallocatechin gallate) and rooibos dihydrochalcone (aspalathin) exhibited differential effects against cell viability, while the major honeybush xanthone (mangiferin) and flavanone (hesperidin) lacked any effect presumably due to a cytoprotective effect. The underlying mechanisms against skin cell viability are likely to involve mitochondrial dysfunction resulting from polyphenol-iron interactions.

CONCLUSIONS

The polyphenol constituents and antioxidant parameters of herbal tea extracts are useful tools to predict their activity against skin cell survival in vitro and potential chemopreventive effects in vivo.

Replica exchange Monte Carlo simulation of human serum albumin-catechin complexes

Replica exchange Monte Carlo simulation equipped with an orientation-enhanced hydrophobic interaction was utilized to study the impacts of molar ratio and ionic strength on the complex formation of human serum albumin (HSA) and catechin. Only a small amount of catechins was found to act as bridges in the formation of HSA-catechin complexes. Selective binding behavior was observed at low catechin to HSA molar ratio (R). Increase of catechin amount can suppress HSA self-aggregation and diminish the selectivity of protein binding sites. Strong saturation binding with short-range interactions was found to level off at around 4.6 catechins per HSA on average, while this number slowly increased with R when long-range interactions were taken into account. Meanwhile, among the three rings of catechin, the 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl (B-ring) shows the strongest preference to bind HSA. Neither the aggregation nor the binding sites of the HSA-catechin complex was sensitive to ionic strength, suggesting that the electrostatic interaction is not a dominant force in such complexes. These results provide a further molecular level understanding of protein-polyphenol binding, and the strategy employed in this work shows a way to bridge phase behaviors at macroscale and the distribution of binding sites at residue level.

The protective role of antioxidants in the defence against ROS/RNS-mediated environmental pollution

Overproduction of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species can result from exposure to environmental pollutants, such as ionising and nonionising radiation, ultraviolet radiation, elevated concentrations of ozone, nitrogen oxides, sulphur dioxide, cigarette smoke, asbestos, particulate matter, pesticides, dioxins and furans, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, and many other compounds present in the environment. It appears that increased oxidative/nitrosative stress is often neglected mechanism by which environmental pollutants affect human health. Oxidation of and oxidative damage to cellular components and biomolecules have been suggested to be involved in the aetiology of several chronic diseases, including cancer, cardiovascular disease, cataracts, age-related macular degeneration, and aging. Several studies have demonstrated that the human body can alleviate oxidative stress using exogenous antioxidants. However, not all dietary antioxidant supplements display protective effects, for example, β-carotene for lung cancer prevention in smokers or tocopherols for photooxidative stress. In this review, we explore the increases in oxidative stress caused by exposure to environmental pollutants and the protective effects of antioxidants.

Chocolate flavanols and skin photoprotection: a parallel, double-blind, randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation has deleterious effects on the skin, including sunburn, photoaging and cancer. Chocolate flavanols are naturally-occurring antioxidant and anti-inflammatory molecules that could play a role in preventing cutaneous UV damage. We investigated the influence of 12-week high-flavanol chocolate (HFC) consumption on skin sensitivity to UV radiation, measured by minimal erythema dose (MED). We also evaluated skin elasticity and hydration.

METHODS

In this 2-group, parallel, double-blind, randomized controlled trial, 74 women aged 20-65 years and Fitzpatrick skin phototypes I or II were recruited from the general community in Quebec City, for randomization to either HFC (n = 33) or low-flavanol chocolate (LFC) (n = 41). A blocked randomisation (4), considering date of entry, skin type and age as factors, generated a sequentially-numbered allocation list. Study participants and research assistants were blinded. Totally, 30 g of chocolate were consumed daily for 12 weeks, followed by a 3-week washout period. MED was assessed at baseline and at 6, 9, 12 and 15 weeks. Main outcome was changes in MED at week 12.

RESULTS

33 participants in the HFC group and 41 in the LFC group were analyzed with 15 weeks of follow-up. Both groups showed similarly-increased MED at 12 weeks (HFC: 0.0252 ± 0.1099 J/cm2 [mean ± standard deviation (SD)]; LFC: 0.0151 ± 0.1118; mean difference (MD): 0.0100 J/cm2; 95% confidence interval (CI): -0.0417 to 0.0618). However, after 3-week washout, the HFC group presented decreased MED (-0.0248 ± 0.1145) whereas no effect was seen in the LFC group (0.0168 ± 0.1698) (MD: -0.0417; 95% CI: -0.1106 to 0.0272). Net temple elasticity increased slightly but significantly by 0.09 ± 0.12 mm in the HFC group at 12 weeks compared to 0.02 ± 0.12 mm in the LFC group (MD: 0.06; 95% CI: 0.01 to 0.12 ). No significant adverse events were reported.

CONCLUSION

Our study failed to demonstrate a statistically-significant protective effect of HFC vs. LFC consumption on skin sensitivity to UV radiation as measured by MED.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

ClinicalTrials.gov identifier: NCT01444625.

Optimization on condition of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) nanoliposomes by response surface methodology and cellular uptake studies in Caco-2 cells

The major component in green tea polyphenols, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), has been demonstrated to prevent carcinogenesis. To improve the effectiveness of EGCG, liposomes were used as a carrier in this study. Reverse-phase evaporation method besides response surface methodology is a simple, rapid, and beneficial approach for liposome preparation and optimization. The optimal preparation conditions were as follows: phosphatidylcholine-to-cholesterol ratio of 4.00, EGCG concentration of 4.88 mg/mL, Tween 80 concentration of 1.08 mg/mL, and rotary evaporation temperature of 34.51°C. Under these conditions, the experimental encapsulation efficiency and size of EGCG nanoliposomes were 85.79% ± 1.65% and 180 nm ± 4 nm, which were close with the predicted value. The malondialdehyde value and the release test in vitro indicated that the prepared EGCG nanoliposomes were stable and suitable for more widespread application. Furthermore, compared with free EGCG, encapsulation of EGCG enhanced its inhibitory effect on tumor cell viability at higher concentrations.

Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention

Photoaging of the skin depends primarily on the degree of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and on an amount of melanin in the skin (skin phototype). In addition to direct or indirect DNA damage, UVR activates cell surface receptors of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in the skin, which leads to a breakdown of collagen in the extracellular matrix and a shutdown of new collagen synthesis. It is hypothesized that dermal collagen breakdown is followed by imperfect repair that yields a deficit in the structural integrity of the skin, formation of a solar scar, and ultimately clinically visible skin atrophy and wrinkles. Many studies confirmed that acute exposure of human skin to UVR leads to oxidation of cellular biomolecules that could be prevented by prior antioxidant treatment and to depletion of endogenous antioxidants. Skin has a network of all major endogenous enzymatic and nonenzymatic protective antioxidants, but their role in protecting cells against oxidative damage generated by UV radiation has not been elucidated. It seems that skin's antioxidative defence is also influenced by vitamins and nutritive factors and that combination of different antioxidants simultaneously provides synergistic effect.

Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies

The fact that the skin is the most visible organ makes us aware of the ageing process every minute. The use of plant extracts and herbs has its origins in ancient times. Chronological and photo-ageing can be easily distinguished clinically, but they share important molecular features. We tried to gather the most interesting evidence based on facts about plants and plant extracts used in antiaging products. Our main idea was to emphasize action mechanisms of these plant/herbal products, that is, their “strategies” in fighting skin ageing. Some of the plant extracts have the ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, or to promote collagen synthesis in the skin. There are some plants that can affect skin elasticity and tightness. Certainly, there is a place for herbal principles in antiaging cosmetics. On the other hand, there is a constant need for more evaluation and more clinical studies in vivo with emphasis on the ingredient concentration of the plant/herbal products, its formulation, safety, and duration of the antiaging effect.

The art and science of new advances in cosmeceuticals

The need for cosmeceutical research is ever present. This article has tried to highlight the chemistry of botanic extracts in the current marketplace and review the best research available. In some ways, more questions have been raised than answered; yet, ideas for intellectual discourse have been provided. Herein lies the physician cosmeceutical challenge.

Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation

Facial hyperpigmented disorders are a common complaint in the adult population of all races. First-line topical treatments are usually hydroquinone or topical retinoids, which can cause irritant reactions. The need for better tolerated, yet effective, skin lightening agents that could be utilized by a wider population has led to the investigation of several potential botanical/natural compounds. There are currently many topical cosmetic formulations claiming skin depigmenting effects. A few of the ingredients (e.g. soy) are supported not only by in vitro results but also by a body of controlled clinical efficacy studies; other ingredients, instead, are backed mostly by in vitro data and a few small uncontrolled clinical studies. In this review, we describe the most common natural ingredients used for skin depigmentation and their major published studies: soy, licorice extracts, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide, N-acetylglucosamine, COFFEEBERRY(™) and green tea.

Nutrition and nonmelanoma skin cancers

The incidence of nonmelanoma skin cancer is increasing every year. Basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma are the two major types of nonmelanoma skin cancer. Among other factors, understanding the potential role of nutrients in the development, progression, and treatment of nonmelanoma skin cancer is critical. This contribution provides a review of the nutrients that have been more extensively investigated in the literature with regard to nonmelanoma skin cancer, including dietary fats, retinol, carotenoids, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, selenium, copper, iron, zinc, green tea, and black tea.

Non-surgical treatments of primary, non-melanoma eyelid malignancies: a review

The diagnosis and management of periocular cutaneous malignancies are essential components of an ophthalmologist's practice. Skin cancers comprise nearly one-third of newly diagnosed malignancies. Furthermore, the incidence of skin cancer appears to be increasing. Multiple treatment modalities exist for periocular cutaneous malignancy. Surgical extirpation, often with the combined expertise of a Mohs micrographic surgeon, is typically the first line therapy and is often curative in the periocular region, depending on a variety of factors, including tumour histology, specific location, depth of invasion and surgical technique. However, there are instances where a less invasive, non-surgical treatment option is warranted, including patients who are poor surgical risks or those with diffuse disease. The purpose of this article is to review the literature and describe the non-surgical treatment options, indications and efficacies for non-melanoma primary eyelid malignancies.

The role of polyphenolic antioxidants in health, disease, and aging

Polyphenolic antioxidants from dietary sources are frequently a topic of interest due to widespread scientific agreement that they may help lower the incidence of certain cancers, cardiovascular and neurodegenerative diseases, and DNA damage and even may have antiaging properties. On the other hand, questions still remain as to whether some antioxidants could be potentially harmful to health, because an increase in glycation-mediated protein damage (carbonyl stress) has been reported in some cases. Nevertheless, the quest for healthy aging has led to the extensive use of phytochemically derived antioxidants to disrupt age-associated deterioration in physiological function and to prevent many age-related diseases. Although a diet rich in the polyphenolic forms of antioxidants does seem to offer hope in delaying the onset of age-related disorders, it is still too early to define their exact clinical benefit for treating age-related disease. This review critically examines polyphenolic antioxidants, such as flavonoids, curcumene, and resveratrol in health, disease, and aging with the hope that a better understanding of the many mechanisms involved with these diverse compounds may lead to better health and novel treatment approaches for age-related diseases.

Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review

Botanical extracts and single compounds are increasingly used in cosmetics but also in over-the-counter drugs and food supplements. The focus of the present review is on controlled clinical trials with botanicals in the treatment of acne, inflammatory skin diseases, skin infections, UV-induced skin damage, skin cancer, alopecia, vitiligo, and wounds. Studies with botanical cosmetics and drugs are discussed, as well as studies with botanical food supplements. Experimental research on botanicals was considered to a limited extent when it seemed promising for clinical use in the near future. In acne therapy, Mahonia, tea tree oil, and Saccharomyces may have the potential to become standard treatments. Mahonia, Hypericum, Glycyrrhiza and some traditional Chinese medicines appear promising for atopic dermatitis. Some plant-derived substances like dithranol and methoxsalen (8-methoxypsoralen) [in combination with UVA] are already accepted as standard treatments in psoriasis; Mahonia and Capsicum (capsaicin) are the next candidates suggested by present evidence. Oral administration and topical application of antioxidant plant extracts (green and black tea, carotenoids, coffee, and many flavonoids from fruits and vegetables) can protect skin from UV-induced erythema, early aging, and irradiation-induced cancer. Hair loss and vitiligo are also traditional fields of application for botanicals. According to the number and quality of clinical trials with botanicals, the best evidence exists for the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases, i.e. atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. However, many more controlled clinical studies are needed to determine the efficacy and risks of plant-derived products in dermatology. Safety aspects, especially related to sensitization and photodermatitis, have to be taken into account. Therefore, clinicians should not only be informed of the beneficial effects but also the specific adverse effects of botanicals used for dermatologic disorders and cosmetic purposes.

Phytoconstituents as photoprotective novel cosmetic formulations

Phytoconstituents are gaining popularity as ingredients in cosmetic formulations as they can protect the skin against exogenous and endogenous harmful agents and can help remedy many skin conditions. Exposure of skin to sunlight and other atmospheric conditions causes the production of reactive oxygen species, which can react with DNA, proteins, and fatty acids, causing oxidative damage and impairment of antioxidant system. Such injuries damage regulation pathways of skin and lead to photoaging and skin cancer development. The effects of aging include wrinkles, roughness, appearance of fine lines, lack of elasticity, and de- or hyperpigmentation marks. Herbal extracts act on these areas and produce healing, softening, rejuvenating, and sunscreen effects. We have selected a few photoprotective phytoconstituents, such as curcumin, resveratrol, tea polyphenols, silymarin, quercetin and ascorbic acid, and have discussed the considerations to be undertaken for the development of herbal cosmetic formulations that could reduce the occurrence of skin cancer and delay the process of photoaging. This article is aimed at providing specific and compiled knowledge for the successful preparation of photoprotective herbal cosmetic formulations.

Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms

Epidemiological, clinical and laboratory studies have implicated solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation in various skin diseases including, premature aging of the skin and melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Chronic UV radiation exposure-induced skin diseases or skin disorders are caused by the excessive induction of inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage, etc. The use of chemopreventive agents, such as plant polyphenols, to inhibit these events in UV-exposed skin is gaining attention. Chemoprevention refers to the use of agents that can inhibit, reverse or retard the process of these harmful events in the UV-exposed skin. A wide variety of polyphenols or phytochemicals, most of which are dietary supplements, have been reported to possess substantial skin photoprotective effects. This review article summarizes the photoprotective effects of some selected polyphenols, such as green tea polyphenols, grape seed proanthocyanidins, resveratrol, silymarin and genistein, on UV-induced skin inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage, etc., with a focus on mechanisms underlying the photoprotective effects of these polyphenols. The laboratory studies conducted in animal models suggest that these polyphenols have the ability to protect the skin from the adverse effects of UV radiation, including the risk of skin cancers. It is suggested that polyphenols may favorably supplement sunscreens protection, and may be useful for skin diseases associated with solar UV radiation-induced inflammation, oxidative stress and DNA damage.

Protective effects of green tea extracts on photoaging and photommunosuppression

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to investigate whether the sunscreen-containing 2-5% green tea extracts (GTEs) protect ultraviolet irradiation (UVR)-induced photoaging and photoimmunosuppression.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty volunteers were exposed to repetitive solar-simulated UVR (ssUVR) on the upper back at a dosage of 1.5 minimal erythema doses (MED) per day for four consecutive days. Thirty minutes before each UVR and 6, 24, and 48 h after the last UV exposure, the products containing vehicle, and 2-5% GTEs were applied onto five sites on the dorsal skin, respectively. The skin biopsies were obtained 72 h after the last UVR. The thickness of the stratum corneum and epidermis was measured under the microscope and the expression of cytokeratins (CK)-5/6, CK16, metalloproteinases (MMP)-2, MMP-9, and the CD1a(+) Langerhans cells (LCs) were determined using immunohistochemistry.

RESULTS

Our results showed that UVR substantially induced cutaneous erythema, thickening of the epidermis, overexpression of CK5/6, CK16, MMP-2, MMP-9, and depletion of CD1a(+) LCs. The sunscreens containing different concentrations of GTEs conferred significant protection against the photoaging and photoimmunology-related biological events. Interestingly, the protective effects were not parallel to the concentrations of GTEs, with 2% and 3% GTEs showing the most efficacious photoprotection.

CONCLUSIONS

GTEs-containing sunscreens have potential photoprotective effects on UVR-induced photoaging and photoimmunosuppression.