Enzymatic synthesis of arbutin undecylenic acid ester and its inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase

Mitigative Effects of PFF-A Isolated from Ecklonia cava on Pigmentation in a Zebrafish Model and Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells

Melanin synthesis is a defense mechanism that prevents skin damage, but excessive accumulation of melanin occurs in the skin in various reactions such as pigmentation, lentigines, and freckles. Although anti-melanogenic effects have been demonstrated for various naturally occurring marine products that inhibit and control tyrosinase activity, most studies have not been extended to in vivo applications. Phlorofucofuroeckol-A (PFF-A, 12.5-100 µM) isolated from Ecklonia cava has previously been shown to have tyrosinase-mitigative effects in B16F10 cells, but it has not been evaluated in an in vivo model, and its underlying mechanism for anti-melanogenic effects has not been studied. In the present study, we evaluated the safety and efficacy of PFF-A for anti-melanogenic effects in an in vivo model. We selected low doses of PFF-A (1.5-15 nM) and investigated their mitigative effects on pigmentation stimulated by α-MSH in vivo and their related-mechanism in an in vitro model. The findings suggest that low-dose PFF-A derived from E. cava suppresses pigmentation in vivo and melanogenesis in vitro. Therefore, this study presents the possibility that PFF-A could be utilized as a new anti-melanogenic agent in the cosmeceutical industries.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Antityrosinase Mechanism and Antimelanogenic Effect of Arbutin Esters Synthesis Catalyzed by Whole-Cell Biocatalyst

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme responsible for enzymatic browning of fruits and vegetables and skin disorders due to overproduction of melanin. Arbutin is an inhibitor of tyrosinase; however, its high polarity and weak transdermal absorption capacity limit its applications. In this paper, a green solvent system was developed to successfully synthesize arbutin esters with improved liposolubilities (Clog P values = 0.27-5.03). Among the obtained esters, arbutin undecenoate (AU) showed the strongest tyrosinase-inhibiting activity (15.6%), which was 9.0 times higher than that of arbutin. An enzyme kinetics study indicated that AU was a competitive inhibitor with reversible inhibition. The esters inhibited tyrosinase by making the secondary structure of tyrosinase looser and less stable; moreover, the interactions between tyrosinase and AU driven by metal interactions and hydrogen bonds also offered a mechanism for inhibition of AU on tyrosinase. In addition, AU (100 μM) reduced the melanin content of B16 mouse melanoma cells to 61.3% of the control group.

Evaluation of the Structure and Biological Activities of Condensed Tannins from Acanthus ilicifolius Linn and Their Effect on Fresh-Cut Fuji Apples

Condensed tannins (CT_S) have been isolated and purified from leaves of Acanthus ilicifolius Linn. And their structures were investigated by three methods: ¹³C nuclear magnetic resonance (¹³C NMR), reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC), and matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF MS). The results showed that the CT_S were a mixture of catechin/epicatechin, galatechin/epicatechin, and amphicin/epigalin, and that the polymer chain lengths were 3-mers to 14-mers. Antityrosinase activities and antioxidant activities of the CT_S from A. ilicifolius leaves were further studied. The IC₅₀ of the CT_S on mushroom tyrosinase activity was determined to be 19.7 ± 0.13 μg/mL, and inhibition type analyses indicated that the CT_S were mixed type inhibitors and their inhibition CT_S was reversible. The CT_S from A. ilicifolius leaves also exhibited potential antioxidant activity. The IC₅₀ of DPPH and ABTS scavenging activities were 104 ± 0.894 μg/mL and 86 ± 0.616 μg/mL, respectively. And the FRAP value was 758.28 ± 2.42 mg AAE/g. In addition, we found that the CT_S from A. ilicifolius leaves had an excellent effect on preserving the quality of fresh-cut apples by preventing apples from browning through reducing polyphenol oxidase activities in apples.

Terrestrial Microorganisms: Cell Factories of Bioactive Molecules with Skin Protecting Applications

It is well known that terrestrial environments host an immense microbial biodiversity. Exposed to different types of stress, such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, water availability and the inter- / intra-specific competition for resources, terrestrial microorganisms have been evolved to produce a large spectrum of bioactive molecules. Bacteria, archaea, protists, fungi and algae have shown a high potential of producing biomolecules for pharmaceutical or other industrial purposes as they combine a sustainable, relatively low-cost and fast-production process. Herein, we provide an overview of the different bioactive molecules produced by terrestrial microorganisms with skin protecting applications. The high content in polyphenolic and carotenoid compounds produced by several strains, as well as the presence of exopolysaccharides, melanins, indole and pyrrole derivatives, mycosporines, carboxylic acids and other molecules, are discussed in the context of their antioxidant, photo-protective and skin-whitening activity. Relevant biotechnological tools developed for the enhanced production of high added value natural products, as well as the protecting effect of some antioxidant, hydrolytic and degrading enzymes are also discussed. Furthermore, we describe classes of microbial compounds that are used or have the potential to be used as antimicrobials, moisturizers, biosurfactants, pigments, flavorings and fragrances.

Investigation of the pro-apoptotic effects of arbutin and its acetylated derivative on murine melanoma cells

Arbutin, a natural polyphenol isolated from the bearberry plant Arctostaphylos uvaursi, possesses whitening and anticancer properties. The effects of arbutin on melanogenesis and its pro-apoptotic effect on B16 murine melanoma cells have not yet been reported. In the present study, acetylated arbutin was prepared in order to improve the biological effects of arbutin, and it was found to significantly inhibit the biosynthesis of melanin and tyrosinase activity compared with parent arbutin in B16 murine melanoma cells. Interestingly, only acetylated arbutin strongly inhibited B16 murine melanoma cell migration in a dose-dependent manner. Both arbutin and acetylated arbutin significantly reduced cell viability, promoted cell apoptosis, caused G1 cell cycle arrest and induced mitochondrial disruption in B16 murine melanoma cells. Furthermore, reduced expression of B-cell lymphoma‑extra large (Bcl-xL) and Bcl-2 were observed in arbutin- and acetylated arbutin-treated cells. Therefore, arbutin and acetylated arbutin were found to exert pro-apoptotic effects on B16 murine melanoma cells, mediated through the mitochondrial pathway. The findings of the present study also support the use of acetylated arbutin as a new potential candidate agent for skin whitening and melanoma treatment.

Action of tyrosinase on alpha and beta-arbutin: A kinetic study

The known derivatives from hydroquinone, α and β-arbutin, are used as depigmenting agents. In this work, we demonstrate that the oxy form of tyrosinase (oxytyrosinase) hydroxylates α and β-arbutin in ortho position of the phenolic hydroxyl group, giving rise to a complex formed by met-tyrosinase with the hydroxylated α or β-arbutin. This complex could evolve in two ways: by oxidizing the originated o-diphenol to o-quinone and deoxy-tyrosinase, or by delivering the o-diphenol and met-tyrosinase to the medium, which would produce the self-activation of the system. Note that the quinones generated in both cases are unstable, so the catalysis cannot be studied quantitatively. However, if 3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone hydrochloride hydrate is used, the o-quinone is attacked, so that it becomes an adduct, which can be oxidized by another molecule of o-quinone, generating o-diphenol in the medium. In this way, the system reaches the steady state and originates a chromophore, which, in turn, has a high absorptivity in the visible spectrum. This reaction allowed us to characterize α and β-arbutin kinetically as substrates of tyrosinase for the first time, obtaining a Michaelis constant values of 6.5 ± 0.58 mM and 3 ± 0.19 mM, respectively. The data agree with those from docking studies that showed that the enzyme has a higher affinity for β-arbutin. Moreover, the catalytic constants obtained by the kinetic studies (catalytic constant = 4.43 ± 0.33 s-1 and 3.7 ± 0.29 s-1 for α and β-arbutin respectively) agree with our forecast based on 13 C NMR considerations. This kinetic characterization of α and β-arbutin as substrates of tyrosinase should be taken into account to explain possible adverse effects of these compounds.

A Novel Heptapeptide with Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity Identified from a Phage Display Library

Peptidic inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase, responsible for skin pigmentation and food browning, would be extremely useful for the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. In order to identify novel inhibitory peptides, a library of short sequence oligopeptides was screened to reveal direct interaction with the tyrosinase. A phage displaying heptapeptide (IQSPHFF) was found to bind most strongly to tyrosinase. The inhibitory activity of the heptapeptide was evaluated using mushroom tyrosinase. The results showed that the peptide inhibited both the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of mushroom tyrosinase with IC₅₀ values of 1.7 and 4.0 mM, respectively. The heptapeptide is thought to be a reversible competitive inhibitor of diphenolase with the inhibition constants (Ki) of 0.765 mM. To further investigate how the heptapeptide exerts its inhibitory effect, a docking study between tyrosinase and heptapeptide was performed. The simulation showed that the heptapeptide binds in the active site of the enzyme near the catalytically active Cu ions and forms hydrogen bonds with five histidine residues on the active site. Phage display technology is thus a useful approach for the screening of potential tyrosinase inhibitors and could be widely applicable to a much wider range of enzymes.

Enzymatic synthesis of bioactive compounds with high potential for cosmeceutical application

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients purporting to offer a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit. The active ingredients can be extracted and purified from natural sources (botanicals, herbal extracts, or animals) but can also be obtained biotechnologically by fermentation and cell cultures or by enzymatic synthesis and modification of natural compounds. A cosmeceutical ingredient should possess an attractive property such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, or photoprotective activity, among others. During the past years, there has been an increased interest on the enzymatic synthesis of bioactive esters and glycosides based on (trans)esterification, (trans)glycosylation, or oxidation reactions. Natural bioactive compounds with exceptional theurapeutic properties and low toxicity may offer a new insight into the design and development of potent and beneficial cosmetics. This review gives an overview of the enzymatic modifications which are performed currently for the synthesis of products with attractive properties for the cosmeceutical industry.

An update of biocatalytic selective acylation and deacylation of monosaccharides

PAMs synthesis requires highly selective reactions, provided by hydrolases. This review updates research on enzymatic acylation and deacylation of monosaccharides, focusing on synthetic useful PAMs and drug-monosaccharide conjugates involving PAMs.

Expression of recombinant mature human tyrosinase from Escherichia coli and exhibition of its activity without phosphorylation or glycosylation

A cDNA encoding mature human tyrosinase was cloned into pET-23a(+) and transformed into E. coli BL21(DE3). Three major recombinant proteins, mature human tyrosinase (RHT₂₀₋₅₃₁), N-terminal truncated human tyrosinase (RHT₁₆₈₋₅₃₁), and β-lactamase, were overexpressed as inclusion bodies in E. coli after 12 h of induction with 1.0 mM isopropyl-β-D-thiogalactopyranoside at 37 °C. After sonication and centrifugation, the inclusion body was harvested, solubilized, dialyzed, and refolded into the active form with monophenolase and diphenolase activities. It was purified to homogeneity by DEAE-Sepharose FF and Sephadex G-75. The molecular mass and N-terminal sequence were 57.0 kDa and GHFPRAC, respectively, and corresponded to those of mature human tyrosinase. The RHT was active in a broad range of temperature and pH, and with optimum activity at 70 °C and pH 8.5.

Undecylenic acid: a valuable and physiologically active renewable building block from castor oil

A lot of attention is currently being paid to the transition to a biobased economy. In this movement, most efforts concentrate on the development of bioenergy applications including bioethanol, biodiesel, thermochemical conversion of biomass, and others. However, in the energy sector other nonbiomass alternatives are known, whereas no valuable alternatives are available when thinking about chemical building blocks. Therefore, it is also essential to develop new routes for the synthesis of bio-based chemicals and materials derived thereof. Such intermediates can originate either from plants or from animals. Castor oil is a non-edible oil extracted from the seeds of the castor bean plant Ricinus communis (Euphorbiaceae), which grows in tropical and subtropical areas. Globally, around one million tons of castor seeds are produced every year, the leading producing areas being India, PR China, and Brazil.2 10-Undecenoic acid or undecylenic acid is a fatty acid derived from castor oil that, owing to its bifunctional nature, has many possibilities to develop sustainable applications.

Enzymatic synthesis of arbutin undecylenic acid ester and its inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis

Transesterification of arbutin and undecylenic acid vinyl ester was catalyzed by alkaline protease, Bioprase, in dimethylformamide to get arbutin derivative having undecylenic acid at 6-position of glucose moiety, 6-O-undecylenoyl p-hydroxyphenyl beta-D-glucopyranoside. The reaction rate increased with increase of arbutin concentration, and when its concentration was 0.9 M, the conversion rate was more than 90% under addition of 2 M undecylenic acid vinyl ester. The obtained arbutin ester significantly suppressed melanin production in murine B16 melanoma cells.