Free fatty acids chain length distribution affects the permeability of skin lipid model membranes

Altered Ceramide Profile of Facial Sensitive Skin: Disordered Intercellular Lipid Structure Is Linked to Skin Hypersensitivity

BACKGROUND

Although sensitive skin (SS) is a syndrome characterized by cutaneous hypersensitivity to environmental factors, its pathophysiology remains elusive.

AIMS

We aimed to explore the characteristics of ceramides (CERs) and intercellular lipid (ICL) structures of individuals with and without facial SS and their relationship with skin hypersensitivity.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Healthy Japanese females were divided into SS or non-SS groups based on self-perception and lactic acid stinging test (LAST). Stratum corneum (SC) lipids were analyzed using a liquid chromatograph-mass spectrometer, and the orthorhombic-hexagonal lateral packing structure of ICLs was assessed using electron diffraction.

RESULTS

According to the mean LAST score, individuals with SS (n = 48) had mild-to-moderate skin hypersensitivity. SS exhibited not significantly but slightly impaired skin barrier function (p = 0.072) and lower levels of CER[NH], [NP], [EOS], [EOH] (all p < 0.05), and [EOP] (p = 0.073) in the SC compared with non-SS (n = 18). Notably, the CER[NP]/[NS] ratio, a marker of skin barrier function, was positively correlated with the orthorhombic-hexagonal lateral packing ratio of ICLs (p = 0.002), whereas it was negatively correlated with the LAST score (p = 0.015) and the interleukin (IL)-1 receptor antagonist/IL-1α ratio (p = 0.003) in the SC, an indicator of chronic inflammation. Moreover, corneocyte size was reduced in SS (p < 0.001), suggesting inferior SC maturation, and was positively correlated with the CER[NP]/[NS] (p < 0.001) and the orthorhombic-hexagonal ratios (p = 0.011).

CONCLUSIONS

Individuals with SS showed an abnormal CER profile, particularly the altered CER[NP]/[NS] ratio, which was in turn associated with disordered ICL structure and skin hypersensitivity. Abnormal epidermal turnover may be an underlying mechanism of the abnormalities.

Bioactive lipids in the skin barrier mediate its functionality in health and disease

Our skin protects us from external threats including ultraviolet radiation, pathogens and chemicals, and prevents excessive trans-epidermal water loss. These varied activities are reliant on a vast array of lipids, many of which are unique to skin, and that support physical, microbiological and immunological barriers. The cutaneous physical barrier is dependent on a specific lipid matrix that surrounds terminally-differentiated keratinocytes in the stratum corneum. Sebum- and keratinocyte-derived lipids cover the skin's surface and support and regulate the skin microbiota. Meanwhile, lipids signal between resident and infiltrating cutaneous immune cells, driving inflammation and its resolution in response to pathogens and other threats. Lipids of particular importance include ceramides, which are crucial for stratum corneum lipid matrix formation and therefore physical barrier functionality, fatty acids, which contribute to the acidic pH of the skin surface and regulate the microbiota, as well as the stratum corneum lipid matrix, and bioactive metabolites of these fatty acids, involved in cell signalling, inflammation, and numerous other cutaneous processes. These diverse and complex lipids maintain homeostasis in healthy skin, and are implicated in many cutaneous diseases, as well as unrelated systemic conditions with skin manifestations, and processes such as ageing. Lipids also contribute to the gut-skin axis, signalling between the two barrier sites. Therefore, skin lipids provide a valuable resource for exploration of healthy cutaneous processes, local and systemic disease development and progression, and accessible biomarker discovery for systemic disease, as well as an opportunity to fully understand the relationship between the host and the skin microbiota. Investigation of skin lipids could provide diagnostic and prognostic biomarkers, and help identify new targets for interventions. Development and improvement of existing in vitro and in silico approaches to explore the cutaneous lipidome, as well as advances in skin lipidomics technologies, will facilitate ongoing progress in skin lipid research.

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review

The stratum corneum (SC)-the outermost layer of the epidermis-is the principal permeability and protective barrier of the skin. Different components of the SC, including corneocytes, natural moisturizing factor, a variety of enzymes and their inhibitors, antimicrobial peptides and lipids, work interactively to maintain barrier function. The main barrier properties of the SC are the limitation of water loss and the prevention of infection and contact with potentially harmful exogenous factors. Although the SC functions consistently as a protective barrier throughout the body, variations in functions and morphology occur across body sites with age and skin type. Healthy SC function also depends on the interplay between the chemosensory barrier, the skin's microbiome and the innate immune system. Dysregulation of SC barrier function can lead to the development of skin disorders, such as dry, flaky or sensitive skin, but the complete underlying pathophysiology of these are not fully understood. This review provides insight into the current literature and emerging themes related to epidermal barrier changes that occur in the context of dry, flaky and sensitive skin. Additional studies are needed to further elucidate the underlying aetiology of dry, flaky and sensitive skin and to provide tailored treatment.

Umbilical therapy for promoting transdermal delivery of topical formulations: Enhanced effect and underlying mechanism

Umbilical paste therapy is a promising method to promote transdermal drug delivery of topical formulations. This work investigated the effect and mechanism of transdermal drug delivery through the umbilical skin. The transdermal permeation studies showed the phenomenon of higher cumulative penetration and faster penetration rates for drug through the umbilical skin compared with non-umbilical skin, namely umbilical pro-permeability. This special transdermal permeability of drugs is influenced by their molecular weight, logP value, ability to form hydrogen bonds, and molecular volume. The underlying mechanism of umbilical pro-permeability was elucidated from unique structure and regulation the effect of drugs on microcirculation in the umbilical skin. Mechanistic studies revealed that this phenomenon was not only associated with the structural and physiological properties of the skin but also to the interactions between drugs and different skin layers. The umbilical pro-permeation is attributed to the thinner stratum corneum layer, differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and keratin structure, and lower levels of intercellular tight junction proteins in the viable epidermis and dermis layer of the skin. Our research indicated that umbilical paste therapy enhanced the transdermal delivery and absorption of drugs by stimulating local blood flow through mast cell activation. Surprisingly, skin temperature modulation and calcitonin gene-related peptide and substance P levels did not appear to significantly affect this process. In conclusion, umbilical drug administration, as a straightforward and non-invasive approach to enhance transdermal drug delivery, presents novel concepts for continued investigation and practical implementation of transdermal drug delivery systems.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Staphylococcus aureus causes aberrant epidermal lipid composition and skin barrier dysfunction

BACKGROUND

Staphylococcus (S) aureus colonization is known to cause skin barrier disruption in atopic dermatitis (AD) patients. However, it has not been studied how S. aureus induces aberrant epidermal lipid composition and skin barrier dysfunction.

METHODS

Skin tape strips (STS) and swabs were obtained from 24 children with AD (6.0 ± 4.4 years) and 16 healthy children (7.0 ± 4.5 years). Lipidomic analysis of STS samples was performed by mass spectrometry. Skin levels of methicillin-sensitive and methicillin-resistant S. aureus (MSSA and MRSA) were evaluated. The effects of MSSA and MRSA were evaluated in primary human keratinocytes (HEKs) and organotypic skin cultures.

RESULTS

AD and organotypic skin colonized with MRSA significantly increased the proportion of lipid species with nonhydroxy fatty acid sphingosine ceramide with palmitic acid ([N-16:0 NS-CER], sphingomyelins [16:0-18:0 SM]), and lysophosphatidylcholines [16:0-18:0 LPC], but significantly reduced the proportion of corresponding very long-chain fatty acids (VLCFAs) species (C22-28) compared to the skin without S. aureus colonization. Significantly increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was found in MRSA-colonized AD skin. S. aureus indirectly through interleukin (IL)-1β, tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α, IL-6, and IL-33 inhibited expression of fatty acid elongase enzymes (ELOVL3 and ELOVL4) in HEKs. ELOVL inhibition was more pronounced by MRSA and resulted in TEWL increase in organotypic skin.

CONCLUSION

Aberrant skin lipid profiles and barrier dysfunction are associated with S. aureus colonization in AD patients. These effects are attributed to the inhibition of ELOVLs by S. aureus-induced IL-1β, TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-33 seen in keratinocyte models and are more prominent in MRSA than MSSA.

Neryl acetate, the major component of Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil, mediates its biological activities on skin barrier

Corsican Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) is characterized by high concentrations of neryl acetate, and we previously demonstrated that Corsican HIEO increases the expression of genes that are part of the differentiation complex (involucrin, small proline rich proteins, late cornified envelope, S100 protein family). The biological activities of HIEO and neryl acetate (NA) were compared to identify how NA contributes to HIEO activity on human skin. NA, as a part component of HIEO, was tested on skin explant models for 24 hours and 5 days in comparison with HIEO. We analyzed the biological regulations in the skin explant by transcriptomic analysis, skin barrier protein immunofluorescence, lipid staining and ceramide analysis by liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry. Transcriptomic analysis revealed that 41.5% of HIEO-modulated genes were also regulated by NA and a selected panel of genes were confirmed by qquantitative reverse transcription PCR analysis. Those genes are involved in epidermal differentiation, skin barrier formation and ceramide synthesis. Involucrin (IVL), involved in formation of the cornified envelope (CE), was upregulated at both gene and protein levels after 24 hours and 5 days respectively. After 5 days of treatment, total lipids and ceramides were also increased. Our results demonstrate that NA mediates a large part of Corsican HIEO activity on skin barrier formation.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

Delta-5® oil, containing the anti-inflammatory fatty acid sciadonic acid, improves skin barrier function in a skin irritation model in healthy female subjects

Background

Sciadonic acid (SA) is an anti-inflammatory fatty acid displacing arachidonic acid (ARA) from specific phospholipid pools, thus modulating downstream pro-inflammatory lipid mediators. Its novel anti-inflammatory actions have been studied in vitro, in pre-clinical models, and stemming from testimonials, after topical- and oral application. It has not been tested in a formal clinical study for topical benefits previously. Skin barrier layer was our focus as it has a critically important role in maintaining skin moisture balance.

Methods

Herein, forearm skin was left undamaged; or barrier layer was chemically-damaged with 2% sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) for 24 h. SLS-damaged skin was left untreated or treated with Delta-5® oil containing 24% SA twice daily for 27 days. Barrier function was assessed by open chamber transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface impedance on days 0 (clear skin), -1 (1-day post-SLS), -2 (2-days post-SLS, 1-day post-Delta-5), -3, -7, and − 28.

Results

Relative to day 1, Delta-5 oil statistically significantly decreased TEWL vs. untreated damaged sites, on days 3 (125% more reduced), -7 (74% more reduced), and − 28 (69% more reduced). Decreases in TEWL following chemical damage indicates improved skin barrier repair and healing. Similar patterns were quantified for skin impedance. There was also reduced redness observed on days 3 and − 7 with Delta-5 oil vs. untreated SLS-damaged skin.

Conclusions

Delta-5 oil thus has anti-inflammatory potential in human skin, under controlled clinical conditions, to accelerate irritant-induced healing, and improve skin barrier function. Improvement in barrier function would benefit dermatitis, acne, eczema, and skin scarring. In normal skin, Delta-5 oil has potential to promote healthy, moisturized skin; and improve skin structure, elasticity, and firmness.

Ceramide NPs Derived from Natural Oils of Korean Traditional Plants Enhance Skin Barrier Functions and Stimulate Expressions of Genes for Epidermal Homeostasis

BACKGROUND

New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine(PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids AIMS: To investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.

METHODS

The expressions of genes related with epidermal differentiation was analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect of TEWL and SC cohesion.

RESULTS

The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14 and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.

CONCLUSION

Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.

Implications of surfactant hydrophobic chain architecture on the Surfactant-Skin lipid model interaction

Although surfactants have been widely used in skin care and other related applications, our knowledge about how surfactants interact with stratum corneum (SC) lipids remains limited. This work reports how surfactants interact with a lipid SC model by neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, focusing on examining the impact of surfactant molecular architecture. The surfactant-SC mixed membrane was constructed by an equimolar mixture of ceramide/cholesterol/fatty acids and surfactant at 1% molar ratio of total lipids. The arrangements of water and surfactant molecules in the membrane were obtained through neutron scattering length density (NSLD) profiles via contrast variation method, meanwhile, MD simulation clearly demonstrated the mechanism of hydration change in the surfactant-model SC mixed membrane. No drastic difference was detected in the repeating distance of the short periodicity phase (SPP) upon adding surfactants, however, it significantly enhanced the membrane hydration and reduced the amount of phase separated crystalline cholesterol, showing a strong dependence on surfactant chain length, branching and double bond. This work clearly demonstrates how surfactant architecture affects its interaction with the SC membrane, providing useful guidance for either choosing an existing surfactant or designing a new one for surfactant-based transdermal application.

The Importance of Free Fatty Chain Length on the Lipid Organization in the Long Periodicity Phase

The skin's barrier ability is an essential function for terrestrial survival, which is controlled by intercellular lipids within the stratum corneum (SC) layer. In this barrier, free fatty acids (FFAs) are an important lipid class. As seen in inflammatory skin diseases, when the lipid chain length is reduced, a reduction in the barrier's performance is observed. In this study, we have investigated the contributing effects of various FFA chain lengths on the lamellar phase, lateral packing. The repeat distance of the lamellar phase increased with FFA chain length (C20-C28), while shorter FFAs (C16 to C18) had the opposite behaviour. While the lateral packing was affected, the orthorhombic to hexagonal to fluid phase transitions were not affected by the FFA chain length. Porcine SC lipid composition mimicking model was then used to investigate the proportional effect of shorter FFA C16, up to 50% content of the total FFA mixture. At this level, no difference in the overall lamellar phases and lateral packing was observed, while a significant increase in the water permeability was detected. Our results demonstrate a FFA C16 threshold that must be exceeded before the structure and barrier function of the long periodicity phase (LPP) is affected. These results are important to understand the lipid behaviour in this unique LPP structure as well as for the understanding, treatment, and development of inflammatory skin conditions.

Comparison of the Effects of Statins on A549 Nonsmall-Cell Lung Cancer Cell Line Lipids Using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy: Rosuvastatin Stands Out

Statins are commonly prescribed antilipidemic and anticholesterol class of drugs. In addition to their major role, they have been found to have anticancer effects on in vitro, animal and clinical studies. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of six different statins (rosuvastatin, pravastatin, simvastatin, lovastatin, fluvastatin, and atorvastatin) on A549 cancer cells lipids by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Proliferation tests were carried out to detect the half-maximal inhibitory concentrations (IC₅₀ ) of each statin on A549 cells. The IC₅₀ values were 50 μM for simvastatin, 150 μM for atorvastatin and pravastatin, and 170 μM for fluvastatin, 200 μM for rosuvastatin and lovastatin on A549 cells. No correlation was found between the antiproliferative effects of the statins and lipid-lowering effect. The cells were treated with IC₅ , IC₁₀ , and IC₅₀ values of each statins concentration and lipid extracts were compared using FTIR spectroscopy. The results indicated that different statins had different effects on the lipid content of A549 cells. The FTIR spectra of the lipid exctracts of statin-treated A549 cells indicated that the value of hydrocarbon chain length, unsaturation index, oxidative stress level, and phospholipid containing lipids increased except for rosuvastatin-treated A549 cells. In addition, rosuvastatin significantly lowered cholesterol ester levels. In conclusion, the contrasting effects of rosuvastatin should be further investigated.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVE

Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities.

METHODS

Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress.

RESULTS

The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity.

CONCLUSION

We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.

Hyperalphalipoproteinemic scavenger receptor BI knockout mice exhibit a disrupted epidermal lipid barrier

Scavenger receptor class B type I (SR-BI) mediates the selective uptake of cholesteryl esters (CE) from high-density lipoproteins (HDL). An impaired SR-BI function leads to hyperalphalipoproteinemia with elevated levels of cholesterol transported in the HDL fraction. Accumulation of cholesterol in apolipoprotein B (apoB)-containing lipoproteins has been shown to alter skin lipid composition and barrier function in mice. To investigate whether these hypercholesterolemic effects on the skin also occur in hyperalphalipoproteinemia, we compared skins of wild-type and SR-BI knockout (SR-BI^-/-) mice. SR-BI deficiency did not affect the epidermal cholesterol content and induced only minor changes in the ceramide subclasses. The epidermal free fatty acid (FFA) pool was, however, enriched in short and unsaturated chains. Plasma CE levels strongly correlated with epidermal FFA C18:1 content. The increase in epidermal FFA coincided with downregulation of cholesterol and FFA synthesis genes, suggesting a compensatory response to increased flux of plasma cholesterol and FFAs into the skin. Importantly, the SR-BI^-/- epidermal lipid barrier showed increased permeability to ethyl-paraminobenzoic acid, indicating an impairment of the barrier function. In conclusion, increased HDL-cholesterol levels in SR-BI^-/- mice can alter the epidermal lipid composition and lipid barrier function similarly as observed in hypercholesterolemia due to elevated levels of apoB-containing lipoproteins.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Hypercholesterolemia in young adult APOE-/- mice alters epidermal lipid composition and impairs barrier function

Long-term exposure to hypercholesterolemia induces the development of skin xanthoma's characterized by the accumulation of lipid-laden foam cells in humans and in mice. Early skin changes in response to hypercholesterolemia are however unknown. In this study, we investigated the skin lipid composition and associated barrier function in young adult low-density lipoprotein receptor knockout (LDLR^-/-) and apolipoprotein E knockout (APOE^-/-) mice, two commonly used hypercholesterolemic mouse models characterized by the accumulation of apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins. No differences were observed on cholesterol content in the epidermis in LDLR^-/- mice nor in the more extremely hypercholesterolemic APOE^-/- mice. Interestingly, the free fatty acid profile in the APOE^-/- epidermis shifted towards shorter and unsaturated chains. Genes involved in the synthesis of cholesterol and fatty acids were downregulated in APOE^-/- skin suggesting a compensation for the higher influx of plasma lipids, most probably as cholesteryl esters. Importantly, in vivo transepidermal water loss and permeability studies with murine lipid model membranes revealed that the lipid composition of the APOE^-/- skin resulted in a reduced skin barrier function. In conclusion, severe hypercholesterolemia associated with increased apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins affects the epidermal lipid composition and its protective barrier.

Anticancer effects of alloxanthoxyletin and fatty acids esters - In vitro study on cancer HTB-140 and A549 cells

Alloxanthoxyletin, a natural occurring pyranocoumarin isolated from a number of plant sources, such as family of Rutaceae, and its synthetic derivatives show cytotoxic and antitumor activities. In the present study new eleven esters of alloxanthoxyletin and fatty acids were synthesized and evaluated for their anticancer toxicity. The structures of the compounds were confirmed by Proton Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (¹H NMR), Carbon-13 Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (¹³C NMR) and High Resolution Mass Spectrometry (HRMS) analyses. For all compounds 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay was used to determine the cytotoxic effect on human melanoma cells (HTB-140), human epithelial lung carcinoma cells (A549) and human keratinocyte line (HaCaT). For the most active compounds (8-11) lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) assay to assess the level of cell damage as well as migration inhibition assay were performed. To explain the basic mechanism of cell death induction, the effect of derivatives 8-11 on early and late apoptosis in Annexin V-FITC/7-AAD flow cytometry analysis was investigated. The results indicate that human melanoma cells (HTB-140) and human epithelial lung carcinoma cells (A549) were more sensitive to new alloxanthoxyletin derivatives exposure compared to human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Both, the cytotoxicity and the migration tests showed a concentration-dependent inhibition of cell growth, although with a different degree of efficacy. Tested compounds induced apoptosis in cancer cells, however, derivatives 8, 9, 10 and 11 were found to be much more potent inducers of early apoptosis in HTB-140 cells than in A549 and HaCaT cells. To establish the potent mechanism of action of alloxanthoxyletin derivatives 8, 9, 10 and 11 on HaCaT, A549 and HTB-140 cells, the level of IL-6 was measured. Our results indicate, that tested compounds significantly decrease the release of IL-6 for all cancer cell lines.

Imaging the distribution of skin lipids and topically applied compounds in human skin using mass spectrometry

The barrier functions of skin against water loss, microbial invasion and penetration of xenobiotics rely, in part, on the spatial distribution of the biomolecular constituents in the skin structure, particularly its horny layer (stratum corneum). However, all skin layers are important to describe normal and dysfunctional skin conditions, and to develop adapted therapies or skin care products. In this work, time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) combined with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used to image the spatial distribution of a variety of molecular species, from stratum corneum down to dermis, in cross-section samples of human abdominal skin. The results demonstrate the expected localization of ceramide and saturated long-chain fatty acids in stratum corneum (SC) and cholesterol sulfate in the upper part of the viable epidermis. The localization of exogenous compounds is demonstrated by the detection and imaging of carvacrol (a constituent of oregano or thyme essential oil) and ceramide, after topical application onto ex vivo human skin. Carvacrol showed pronounced accumulation to triglyceride-containing structures in the deeper parts of dermis. In contrast, the exogenous ceramide was found to be localized in SC. Furthermore, the complementary character of this approach with classical ex vivo skin absorption analysis methods is demonstrated.

Comprehensive mapping of human body skin hydration: A pilot study

BACKGROUND

Previous studies analyzed a series of representative anatomical regions in the human body; however, there is a wide structural and cellular variability in the constitution of the skin. Our objective was to perform a comprehensive assessment of human skin hydration throughout the largest possible area.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hydration was registered by Corneometer^® CM825 probe in 23 anatomical regions of five healthy men. Each zone was analyzed by 2-cm segments in the supine, prone, and lateral positions. A total of 7863 measurements were registered.

RESULTS

Differences in the degree of hydration among the prone, supine, and lateral regions were observed. The chest and back showed a pattern of increased hydration toward the neck area. Higher levels of hydration were evidenced in the proximal areas and in the regions near the elbow and knee. The regions of greater mechanical wear and with greater exposure to the sun exhibited a lower degree of hydration.

CONCLUSION

The human skin exhibited hydration patterns influenced by anatomical function and the degree of sun exposure. Detailed information of the hydration patterns could serve as reference for the design of topical products, as an indicator of their effectiveness, and for the monitoring of skin pathologies.

Profiling of epidermal lipids in a mouse model of dermatitis: Identification of potential biomarkers

Lipids are important structural and functional components of the skin. Alterations in the lipid composition of the epidermis are associated with inflammation and can affect the barrier function of the skin. SHARPIN-deficient cpdm mice develop a chronic dermatitis with similarities to atopic dermatitis in humans. Here, we used a recently-developed approach named multiple reaction monitoring (MRM)-profiling and single ion monitoring to rapidly identify discriminative lipid ions. Shorter fatty acyl residues and increased relative amounts of sphingosine ceramides were observed in cpdm epidermis compared to wild type mice. These changes were accompanied by downregulation of the Fasn gene which encodes fatty acid synthase. A profile of diverse lipids was generated by fast screening of over 300 transitions (ion pairs). Tentative attribution of the most significant transitions was confirmed by product ion scan (MS/MS), and the MRM-profiling linear intensity response was validated with a C17-ceramide lipid standard. Relative quantification of sphingosine ceramides CerAS(d18:1/24:0)2OH, CerAS(d18:1/16:0)2OH and CerNS(d18:1/16:0) discriminated between the two groups with 100% accuracy, while the free fatty acids cerotic acid, 16-hydroxy palmitic acid, and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) had 96.4% of accuracy. Validation by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) of the above-mentioned ceramides was in agreement with MRM-profiling results. Identification and rapid monitoring of these lipids represent a tool to assess therapeutic outcomes in SHARPIN-deficient mice and other mouse models of dermatitis and may have diagnostic utility in atopic dermatitis.

Interactions of dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine with ceramide-based mixtures

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), acts as the natural physical barrier. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a crystalline lipid matrix consisting of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Although phospholipids are frequently present in topical formulations, no detailed information is reported on the interactions between phospholipids and SC lipids. The aim of this study was to examine the interactions between a model phospholipid, dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and synthetic ceramide-based mixtures (referred to as SC lipids). (Perdeuterated) DPPC was mixed with SC lipids and the lipid organization and mixing properties were examined. The studies revealed that DPPC participates in the same lattice as SC lipids thereby enhancing a hexagonal packing. Even at a high DPPC level, no phase separated pure DPPC was observed. When a DPPC containing formulation is applied to the skin surface it must partition into the SC lipid matrix prior to any mixing with the SC lipids. To mimic this, DPPC was applied on top of a SC lipid membrane. DPPC applied in a liquid crystalline state was able to mix with the SC lipids and participated in the same lattice as the SC lipids. However, when DPPC was applied in a rippled gel-state very limited partitioning of DPPC into the SC lipid matrix occurred. Thus, when applied to the skin, liquid crystalline DPPC will have very different interactions with SC lipids than DPPC in a (rippled-)gel phase.

Probing the role of ceramide hydroxylation in skin barrier lipid models by 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy and X-ray powder diffraction

In this work, we studied model stratum corneum lipid mixtures composed of the hydroxylated skin ceramides N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine (Cer[NH]) and α-hydroxylignoceroyl phytosphingosine (Cer[AP]). Two model skin lipid mixtures of the composition Cer[NH] or Cer[AP], N-lignoceroyl sphingosine (Cer[NS]), lignoceric acid (C24:0) and cholesterol in a 0.5:0.5:1:1 molar ratio were compared. Model membranes were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Each component of the model mixture was specifically deuterated for selective detection by ²H NMR. Thus, the exact phase composition of the mixture at varying temperatures could be quantified. Moreover, using X-ray powder diffraction we investigated the lamellar phase formation. From the solid-state NMR and DSC studies, we found that both hydroxylated Cer[NH] and Cer[AP] exhibit a similar phase behavior. At physiological skin temperature of 32 °C, the lipids form a crystalline (orthorhombic) phase. With increasing temperature, most of the lipids become fluid and form a liquid-crystalline phase, which converts to the isotropic phase at higher temperatures (65-80 °C). Interestingly, lignoceric acid in the Cer[NH]-containing mixture has a tendency to form two types of fluid phases at 65 °C. This tendency was also observed in Cer[AP]-containing membranes at 80 °C. While Cer[AP]-containing lipid models formed a short periodicity phase featuring a repeat spacing of d = 5.4 nm, in the Cer[NH]-based model skin lipid membranes, the formation of unusual long periodicity phase with a repeat spacing of d = 10.7 nm was observed.

Novel phytoceramides containing fatty acids of diverse chain lengths are better than a single C18-ceramide N-stearoyl phytosphingosine to improve the physiological properties of human stratum corneum

Ceramides in the human stratum corneum (SC) are a mixture of diverse N-acylated fatty acids (FAs) with different chain lengths. C24 is the major class of FAs of ceramides. However, there are also other classes of ceramides with diverse chain lengths of FAs, and these lengths generally range from C16 to C26. This study aimed to prepare several types of phytoceramide containing diverse chain lengths of N-acylated FAs and compare them with C18-ceramide N-stearoyl phytosphingosine (NP) in terms of their effects on the physiological properties of the SC. We chose natural oils, such as horse fat oil, shea butter, sunflower oil, and a mixture of macadamia nut, shea butter, moringa, and meadowfoam seed oil, as sources of FAs and phytosphingosine as a sphingoid backbone to synthesize diverse phytoceramides. Each phytoceramide exhibited a distinctive formation of the lamellar structure, and their FA profiles were similar to those of their respective natural oil. The skin barrier properties, as analyzed in human skin, clearly demonstrated that all the phytoceramides improved the recovery rate of the damaged SC and enhanced hydration better than C18-ceramide NP did. In conclusion, natural oil-derived phytoceramides could represent a novel class of ceramides for cosmetic applications in the development of an ideal skin barrier moisturizer.

How Predictable Are Human Stratum Corneum Lipid/Water Partition Coefficients? Assessment and Useful Correlations for Dermal Absorption

Partition coefficients between human stratum corneum lipids and water (K^sclip/w) are collected or deduced from a variety of sources in a manner that approximately doubles the available data compared to the current state-of-the-art model (Hansen et al., Adv Drug Deliv Rev. 2013;65(2):251-264). An additional datum for water itself in porcine SC that considerably extends the molecular size and lipophilicity range of the data set is considered. The data are analyzed in terms of an extended linear free energy relationship involving octanol/water partition coefficients, Abraham solvation parameters, and a secondary, power law molecular weight dependence. The optimum fit to log K^sclip/w for the full data set reduces the standard error of prediction from 0.50 for a Hansen-like model to 0.39; corresponding multiplicative errors in K^sclip/w are reduced from a factor of 3.1 to one of 2.5. The difference in performance is driven by the water datum, which requires a more complex dependence on molecular size than that afforded by Abraham parameters. In the absence of the water value, the Hansen-like model, which does not include a dependence on molecular size, is essentially optimum. A comparison is presented to fluid-phase phospholipid-water systems, which have a demonstrably different structure-property relationship.

In-Silico Skin Model: A Multiscale Simulation Study of Drug Transport

Accurate in-silico models are required to predict the release of drug molecules through skin in order to supplement the in-vivo experiments for faster development/testing of drugs. The upper most layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), offers the main resistance for permeation of actives. Most of the SC's molecular level models comprise cholesterol and phospholipids only, which is far from reality. In this study we have implemented a multiscale modeling framework to obtain the release profile of three drugs, namely, caffeine, fentanyl, and naphthol, through skin SC. We report for the first time diffusion of drugs through a realistic skin molecular model comprised of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acid. The diffusion coefficients of drugs in the SC lipid matrix were determined from multiple constrained molecular dynamics simulations. The calculated diffusion coefficients were then used in the macroscopic models to predict the release profiles of drugs through the SC. The obtained release profiles were in good agreement with available experimental data. The partition coefficient exhibits a greater effect on the release profiles. The reported multiscale modeling framework would provide insight into the delivery mechanisms of the drugs through the skin and shall act as a guiding tool in performing targeted experiments to come up with a suitable delivery system.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Phase separation in ceramide[NP] containing lipid model membranes: neutron diffraction and solid-state NMR

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin and protects the organism against external influences as well as water loss. It consists of corneocytes embedded in a mixture of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol in a molar ratio of roughly 1 : 1 : 1. The unique structural and compositional arrangement of these stratum corneum lipids is responsible for the skin barrier properties. Many studies investigated the organization of these barrier lipids and, in particular, the exact conformation of ceramides. However, so far no consensus has been reached. In this study, we investigate a model system comprised of N-(non-hydroxy-tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine/cholesterol/tetracosanoic acid (CER[NP]-C24/CHOL/TA) at a 1 : 1 : 1 molar ratio using neutron diffraction and ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Deuterated variants of all three lipid components of the model system were used to enable their separate investigation in the NMR spectra and quantification of the amount of molecules in each phase. Neutron scattering experiments show the coexistence of two lipid phases at low temperatures with repeat spacings of 54.2 Å and 43.0 Å at a physiological skin temperature of 32 °C. They appear to be indistinguishable in the ²H NMR spectra as both phases are crystalline and ceramide molecules do not rotate around their long axis on a microsecond timescale. The evolution of these phases upon heating is followed and with increasing temperature fluid and even isotropically mobile molecules are observed. A model of the organization of the lamellar phases is proposed in which the thicker phase consists of CER[NP]-C24 in a hairpin conformation mixed with CHOL and TA, while the phase with a repeat spacing of 43.0 Å contains CER[NP]-C24 in a V-shape conformation.