The skin aging exposome

Exposome Impact on Nail Health

Background

The nail unit is a complex system with various components, each serving distinct functions. The exposome, encompassing external and internal factors such as UV radiation, air pollution, dietary habits, and cosmetic product usage, substantially influences nail health and can lead to premature nail aging.

Summary

Internal and external exposomal factors can impact differently on nail health, inducing a variety of different clinical conditions. Effective therapeutic strategies exist, but a comprehensive understanding of how the exposome affects nails is lacking. This article aims to bridge this knowledge gap by exploring the relationship between the exposome and nail health, emphasizing it as a central focus of our analysis.

Key Messages

(1) The exposome, comprising various external and internal factors, may significantly influence nail health negatively, leading to premature nail aging. (2) Different nail conditions may arise due to the exposomal influence on nails. (3) Understanding the exposome's impact on nail health is crucial for developing solutions to mitigate negative effects and improve overall nail well-being.

A review: Structure, bioactivity and potential application of algal polysaccharides in skin aging care and therapy

Skin is the first barrier of body which stands guard for defending aggressive pathogens and environmental pressures all the time. Cutaneous metabolism changes in harmful exposure, following with skin dysfunctions and diseases. Lots of researches have reported that polysaccharides extracted from seaweeds exhibited multidimensional bioactivities in dealing with skin disorder. However, few literature systematically reviews them. The aim of the present paper is to summarize structure, bioactivities and structure-function relationship of algal polysaccharides acting on skin. Algal polysaccharides show antioxidant, immunomodulating, hydration regulating, anti-melanogenesis and extracellular matrix (ECM) regulating abilities via multipath ways in skin. These bioactivities are determined by various parameters, including seaweed species, molecular weight, monosaccharides composition and substitute groups. In addition, potential usages of algae-derived polysaccharides in skin care and therapy are also elaborated. Algal polysaccharides are potential ingredients in formulation that providing anti-aging efficacy for skin.

Exploring the impact of solar radiation on skin microbiome to develop improved photoprotection strategies

The skin microbiome undergoes constant exposure to solar radiation (SR), with its effects on health well-documented. However, understanding SR's influence on host-associated skin commensals remains nascent. This review surveys existing knowledge on SR's impact on the skin microbiome and proposes innovative sun protection methods that safeguard both skin integrity and microbiome balance. A team of skin photodamage specialists conducted a comprehensive review of 122 articles sourced from PubMed and Research Gateway. Key terms included skin microbiome, photoprotection, photodamage, skin cancer, ultraviolet radiation, solar radiation, skin commensals, skin protection, and pre/probiotics. Experts offered insights into novel sun protection products designed not only to shield the skin but also to mitigate SR's effects on the skin microbiome. Existing literature on SR's influence on the skin microbiome is limited. SR exposure can alter microbiome composition, potentially leading to dysbiosis, compromised skin barrier function, and immune system activation. Current sun protection methods generally overlook microbiome considerations. Tailored sun protection products that prioritize both skin and microbiome health may offer enhanced defense against SR-induced skin conditions. By safeguarding both skin and microbiota, these specialized products could mitigate dysbiosis risks associated with SR exposure, bolstering skin defense mechanisms and reducing the likelihood of SR-mediated skin issues.

Positive and negative feedback regulation of the TGF-β1 explains two equilibrium states in skin aging

During aging, skin homeostasis is essential for maintaining appearance, as well as biological defense of the human body. In this study, we identified thrombospondin-1 (THBS1) and fibromodulin (FMOD) as positive and negative regulators, respectively, of the TGF-β1-SMAD4 axis in human skin aging, based on in vitro and in vivo omics analyses and mathematical modeling. Using transcriptomic and epigenetic analyses of senescent dermal fibroblasts, TGF-β1 was identified as the key upstream regulator. Bifurcation analysis revealed a binary high-/low-TGF-β1 switch, with THBS1 as the main controller. Computational simulation of the TGF-β1 signaling pathway indicated that THBS1 expression was sensitively regulated, whereas FMOD was regulated robustly. Results of sensitivity analysis and validation showed that inhibition of SMAD4 complex formation was a promising method to control THBS1 production and senescence. Therefore, this study demonstrated the potential of combining data-driven target discovery with mathematical approaches to determine the mechanisms underlying skin aging.

Different Dilutions of Mesobotox in Facial Rejuvenation: Which is Better?

BACKGROUND

Microbotulinum toxin A treatment is a technique of delivering multiple intradermal injections of diluted botulinum toxin type A into the dermis or the interface between the dermis and the superficial layer of the facial muscles to preserve the facial mobility. The current study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical effect of different dilutions of microbotulinum toxin A in periorbital and mid-facial rejuvenation.

METHODS

This randomized prospective interventional study included 30 female patients with different types of wrinkles in periorbital and/or mid-face. Patients were divided into three groups: group I (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 5 ml saline, group II (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 7 ml saline and group III (10 patients): 100U botulinum toxin in 10 ml saline.

RESULTS

A statistically significant better global esthetic improvement scale (GAIS) scores after 1 month were observed in group I compared to groups II and III. Also, after 6 months better GAIS scores were observed in group I compared to group II and in group II compared to group III. Assessment of different esthetic parameters measured by the Antera 3D camera revealed a statistically significant improvement in all parameters (periorbital and mid-face) in group I and in most of parameters (periorbital and mid-face) in groups II and III with more evident improvement after 1 month compared to after 6 months.

CONCLUSION

Intradermal microbotulinum toxin A is a cost-effective method for improving periorbital and mid-face wrinkles with a better effect of 1:5 than 1:7 and 1:10 dilutions. Facial wrinkles possess a great burden on patients' psychological status, and the emergence of novel rejuvenation technique with minimal side effects is necessary. MicroBoNT-A usage in the literature was through variety of dilutions and concentrations. Therefore, a conclusive and comparative study was essential to compare the effect of different microBoNT-A dilutions. In this context, the current study aimed to evaluate and compare the clinical effect of different dilutions of microBoNT-A in periorbital and mid-facial rejuvenation.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE III

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

Intra-Individual Paired Mass Spectrometry Dataset for Decoding Solar-Induced Proteomic Changes in Facial Skin

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by prolonged exposure to solar radiation. The visual alterations manifest as wrinkles, reduced skin elasticity, uneven skin tone, as well as other signs that surpass the expected outcomes of natural aging. Beyond these surface changes, there is a complex interplay of molecular alterations, encompassing shifts in cellular function, DNA damage, and protein composition disruptions. This data descriptor introduces a unique dataset derived from ten individuals, each with a minimum of 18 years of professional experience as a driver, who are asymmetrically and chronically exposed to solar radiation due to their driving orientation. Skin samples were independently collected from each side of the face using a microdermabrasion-like procedure and analyzed on an Exploris 240 mass spectrometer. Our adapted proteomic statistical framework leverages the sample pairing to provide robust insights. This dataset delves into the molecular differences in exposed skin and serves as a foundational resource for interdisciplinary research in photodermatology, targeted skincare treatments, and computational modelling of skin health.

Carcinogenic risk in patients treated with UVA-1 phototherapy: A 5-year retrospective study

BACKGROUND

UVA-1 phototherapy was first used to treat atopic dermatitis and afterwards to several other skin diseases. The contribution of UVA-1 in human photocarcinogenesis, skin photoaging, immune suppression, and hyperpigmentation is now well established. The actual contribution of UVA-1 radiation to the development of malignant melanoma (MM) in humans cannot be excluded.

PURPOSE

The aim of the study is to evaluate the risk of developing skin cancers (non-melanoma skin cancers (NMSCs) and MM) in patients treated with UVA-1 phototherapy with a 5-year dermatological follow-up.

METHODS

We conducted a retrospective cohort study with 31 patients with morphea and atopic dermatitis treated with medium dose UVA-1 phototherapy (34 J/cm2). All enrolled patients underwent an oncologic prevention visit annually with a 5-year follow-up with clinical evaluation of the entire skin surface.

RESULTS

During the 5-year follow-up, we recorded a case of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) in the cervical region and one case of MM on the back (pT1a). In both cases, the patients were female and affected by morphea. The Glogau 3 group is prevalent (42%), which is consistent with moderate to severe aging; the data appear to be compatible with the age.

CONCLUSIONS

This study attests that medium-dose UVA-1 phototherapy does not increase the risk of developing skin tumors and that UVA-1 phototherapy is not a worsening factor of facial photoaging. The main limitation of the study is the small sample size, avoiding to obtain statistically significant values. It was not possible to analyze individually the actual daily sun exposure during the 5-year observation period and to correlate it in terms of time and tumor development. Further studies with large sample sizes will be needed to confirm our data. Our study reaffirms how the dermatological examination performed annually is essential in the follow-up of patients undergoing this type of therapy.

Comparison of photodamage in non-pigmented and pigmented human skin equivalents exposed to repeated ultraviolet radiation to investigate the role of melanocytes in skin photoprotection

Introduction

Daily solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation has an important impact on skin health. Understanding the initial events of the UV-induced response is critical to prevent deleterious conditions. However, studies in human volunteers have ethical, technical, and economic implications that make skin equivalents a valuable platform to investigate mechanisms related to UV exposure to the skin. In vitro human skin equivalents can recreate the structure and function of in vivo human skin and represent a valuable tool for academic and industrial applications. Previous studies have utilised non-pigmented full-thickness or pigmented epidermal skin equivalents to investigate skin responses to UV exposure. However, these do not recapitulate the dermal-epidermal crosstalk and the melanocyte role in photoprotection that occurs in vivo. In addition, the UV radiation used in these studies is generally not physiologically representative of real-world UV exposure.

Methods

Well-characterised pigmented and non-pigmented skin equivalents that contain human dermal fibroblasts, endogenous secreted extracellular matrix proteins (ECM) and a well-differentiated and stratified epidermis have been developed. These constructs were exposed to UV radiation for ×5 consecutive days with a physiologically relevant UV dose and subsequently analysed using appropriate end-points to ascertain photodamage to the skin.

Results

We have described that repeated irradiation of full-thickness human skin equivalents in a controlled laboratory environment can recreate UV-associated responses in vitro, mirroring those found in photoexposed native human skin: morphological damage, tanning, alterations in epidermal apoptosis, DNA lesions, proliferation, inflammatory response, and ECM-remodelling.

Discussion

We have found a differential response when using the same UV doses in non-pigmented and pigmented full-thickness skin equivalents, emphasising the role of melanocytes in photoprotection.

Synergistic interplay of UV radiation and urban particulate matter induces impairment of autophagy and alters cellular fate in senescence-prone human dermal fibroblasts

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic factors and environmental stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation and air pollution, among others. In this study, we investigated the effects of UVA and UVB radiation, combined with urban particulate matter (UPM), on human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). We show here that treatment of HDF with a subcytotoxic dose of UVA/UVB results in a series of events leading to mitochondrial dysfunction, increased ROS levels, and DNA damage. These effects are known to trigger either cellular senescence or cell death, depending on the cells' ability to clear damage by activating autophagy. Whereas UPM treatment in isolation did not affect proliferation or survival of HDF, of note, simultaneous UPM treatment of UV-irradiated cells selectively inhibited autophagic flux, thereby changing cell fate of a fraction of the cell population from senescence to apoptotic cell death. Our findings highlight the synergistic effects of UV radiation and UPM on skin aging, emphasizing the need to consider these factors in assessing the impact of environmental stressors on human health and opening opportunities for developing comprehensive approaches to protect and preserve skin integrity in the face of growing environmental challenges.

An evaluation of the effectiveness of 'ULTRACOL 200' in enhancing nasolabial fold wrinkles through cutaneous repair

BACKGROUND

Injectable filler, a nonsurgical beauty method, has gained popularity in rejuvenating sagging skin. In this study, polydioxanone (PDO) was utilized as the main component of the ULTRACOL200 filler that helps stimulate collagenesis and provide skin radiant effects. The study aimed to evaluate and compare the effectiveness of ULTRACOL200 with other commercialized products in visually improving dermatological problems.

METHODS

Herein, 31 participants aged between 20 and 59 years were enrolled in the study. 1 mL of the testing product, as well as the quantity for the compared groups was injected into each participants face side individually. Subsequently, skin texture and sunken volume of skin were measured using ANTERA 3D CS imaging technology at three periods: before the application, 4 weeks after the initial application, and 4 weeks after the 2nd application of ULTRACOL200.

RESULTS

The final results of skin texture and wrinkle volume evaluation consistently demonstrated significant enhancement. Consequently, subjective questionnaires were provided to the participants to evaluate the efficacy of the testing product, illustrating satisfactory responses after the twice applications.

CONCLUSION

The investigation has contributed substantially to the comprehension of a PDO-based filler (ULTRACOL200) for skin enhancement and provided profound insight for future clinical trials.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Unveiling the mechanism of high sugar diet induced advanced glycosylation end products damage skin structure via extracellular matrix-receptor interaction pathway

BACKGROUND

AGEs accumulate in the skin as a result of a high-sugar diet and play an important role in the skin aging process.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to characterize the mechanism underlying the effect of a high-sugar diet on skin aging damage at a holistic level.

METHODS

We established a high-sugar diet mouse model to compare and analyze differences in physiological indexes. The effect of a high-sugar diet on skin aging damage was analyzed by means of a transcriptome study and staining of pathological sections. Furthermore, the differences in the protein expression of AGEs and ECM components between the HSD and control groups were further verified by immunohistochemistry.

RESULTS

The skin in the HSD group mice tended toward a red, yellow, dark, and deep color. In addition, the epidermis was irregular with anomalous phenomena, the epidermis was thinned, and the dermis lost its normal structure and showed vacuolated changes. Transcriptomics results revealed significant downregulation of the ECM-receptor interaction pathway, significant upregulation of the expression of AGEs and significant downregulation of the expression levels of COLI, FN1, LM5, and TNC, among others ECM proteins and ECM receptors.

CONCLUSIONS

High-sugar diets cause skin aging damage by inducing the accumulation of AGEs, disrupting the expression of ECM proteins and their receptors, and downregulating the ECM-receptor interaction pathway, which affects cellular behavioral functions such as cell proliferation, migration, and adhesion, as well as normal skin tissue structure.

Efficacy and Safety of Skin Radiance Collagen on Skin and Hair Matrix: A Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial in Healthy Human Subjects

Purpose

Collagen supplements are rising in the market as collagen has been demonstrated to be an important protein in the human aging process. Also, it is safe and easily absorbed in the body. Hence the aim of this study was to examine the effectiveness and safety of a collagen and antioxidant-rich treatment compared to a placebo in relation to various skin and hair indicators in healthy adult human subjects.

Patients and Methods

Forty healthy adult non-pregnant/non-lactating women (aged 38-50 years) provided their informed consent in writing before their participation. Skin Radiance Collagen (SRC) treatment and a placebo were assessed for efficacy before application on Day 1, and post-application on Days 28 and 56, to measure changes in skin elasticity, hydration, brightness, pigmentation; texture, wrinkles, dryness, smoothness, fine lines, changes in the crow's feet region; as well as hair strength and hair fall.

Results

It was observed after 56 days that therapy with SRC, compared to placebo, produced a substantial effect on reduction of wrinkle depth and fine lines by 48.11% and 39%, respectively, with p-value <0.01 in the test group. There was a 15.69% improvement in skin hydration observed and 28% reduction in hair fall with p-value <0.01.

Conclusion

SRC, a combination of collagen with hyaluronic acid (HA), biotin, and vitamins C and E, showed a significant improvement in skin and hair health, including improvements in skin elasticity, skin hydration, reduction in crow's feet area wrinkles and fine lines, hair fall, and decrease in roughness, leading to improved skin texture. Vitamin C in the formulation also acts as a collagen builder for the body and helps in preventing oxidative stress in the body. The test treatment SRC was found to be efficacious and safe in healthy human adult subjects.

Development of Home Beauty Devices for Facial Rejuvenation: Establishment of Efficacy Evaluation System

Background

Home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation utilizing technologies such as radiofrequency, microcurrent, and light emitting diode have gained widespread attention due to their claimed ability to improve skin tightness and elasticity, making them popular among consumers. However, there is controversy within the industry regarding the effectiveness and safety of these devices.

Objective

This study aims to verify the safety and effectiveness of these home beauty devices in treating skin aging based on relevant efficacy evaluation indicators.

Methods

A systematic search of PubMed and web of science was conducted to include original research literature on the efficacy of home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation over the past two decades. The selected literature was processed and analyzed based on efficacy evaluation indicators such as sample size, follow-up period, experimental results, adverse reactions, and others.

Results

After screening, a total of 18 clinical studies were included. A comprehensive analysis of the experimental results and adverse reaction indicators from existing literature revealed that home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation can improve skin aging to a certain extent. Apart from transient redness and swelling, no other adverse reactions were observed.

Conclusion

Despite the variety of home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation available in the market, corresponding research reports are limited. Existing studies suffer from issues such as small sample sizes and short follow-up periods, highlighting the need for a more comprehensive efficacy evaluation system. Furthermore, the physical stimulation of meridian acupoints by home beauty devices for facial rejuvenation may meet the multi-dimensional anti-aging needs of patients, suggesting a potential direction for future research.

Lipid Peroxidation as the Mechanism Underlying Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons and Sunlight Synergistic Toxicity in Dermal Fibroblasts

Light and atmospheric pollution are both independently implicated in cancer induction and premature aging. Evidence has been growing more recently on the toxic synergy between light and pollutants. Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) originate from the incomplete combustion of organic matter. Some PAHs, such as the Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP), absorb ultraviolet A (UVA) wavelengths and can act as exogenous chromophores, leading to synergistic toxicity through DNA damage and cytotoxicity concomitant to ROS formation. In this study, we shed light on the mechanism underlying the toxic synergy between PAHs and UVA. Using dermal fibroblasts co-exposed to UVA and BaP, we have demonstrated that the photosensitization reaction causes mortality, which is most likely caused by ROS accumulation. We have shown that these ROS are concentrated in the lipids, which causes an important induction of lipid peroxidation and malondialdehyde, by-products of lipid peroxidation. We have also shown the accumulation of bulky DNA damage, most likely generated by these by-products of lipid peroxidation. To our knowledge, this study represents the first one depicting the molecular effects of photo-pollution on dermal skin.

In vitro photoprotective potential of aryl-sandwiched (thio)semicarbazones against UVA mediated cellular and DNA damage

The most prevalent solar ultraviolet radiation is ultraviolet-A (UVA) radiation. It is the inducer of reactive oxygen species (ROS), a potent mediator of inflammation and photocarcinogenesis. Regular application of sunscreens containing UVA filters is an effective preventive measure in mitigating the risk associated with the formation of dermal carcinoma. Therefore, the development of new photoprotective agents is of great need. The current work examined the in vitro photoprotection of the aryl-linked (thio)semicarbazone derivatives against UVA-mediated DNA damage, inflammation, reactive nitrogen species (RNS), and ROS. Except for the inflammatory cytokine assay, which was carried out on the human monocytic leukemia (THP-1) cell line, all tests were conducted on the human dermal fibroblast (BJ) cell line. In comparison to benzophenone (reference compound), the compound (2Z, 2'Z)-2,2'-(1,3-Phenylenebis (methanylylidene)) bis (hydrazine-1-carbothioamide) (DD-21) demonstrated considerable protection against UVA-induced damage. Compared to the UVA-irradiated control, DD-21 significantly decreased the levels of nitric oxide (NO) and ROS (p < 0.001). In the presence of DD-21, the release of UVA-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines, tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and interleukin-1β (IL-1β), was also significantly reduced (p < 0.05). Moreover, it was observed that DD-21 protected the cells from UVA-mediated DNA strand breaks and also inhibited the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) upon comparison to the UVA-exposed control cells (p < 0.001). In conclusion, the findings of this study revealed that DD-21 exhibits remarkable photoprotective properties, thus demonstrating its potential as a candidate UVA filter.

Predicting the evolution of clinical skin aging in a multi-ethnic population: Developing causal Bayesian networks using dermatological expertise

INTRODUCTION

Software to predict the impact of aging on physical appearance is increasingly popular. But it does not consider the complex interplay of factors that contribute to skin aging.

OBJECTIVES

To predict the +15-year progression of clinical signs of skin aging by developing Causal Bayesian Belief Networks (CBBNs) using expert knowledge from dermatologists.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Structures and conditional probability distributions were elicited worldwide from dermatologists with experience of at least 15 years in aesthetics. CBBN models were built for all phototypes and for ages ranging from 18 to 65 years, focusing on wrinkles, pigmentary heterogeneity and facial ptosis. Models were also evaluated by a group of independent dermatologists ensuring the quality of prediction of the cumulative effects of extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging factors, especially the distribution of scores for clinical signs 15 years after the initial assessment.

RESULTS

For easiness, only models on African skins are presented in this paper. The forehead wrinkle evolution model has been detailed. Specific atlas and extrinsic factors of facial aging were used for this skin type. But the prediction method has been validated for all phototypes, and for all clinical signs of facial aging.

CONCLUSION

This method proposes a skin aging model that predicts the aging process for each clinical sign, considering endogenous and exogenous factors. It simulates aging curves according to lifestyle. It can be used as a preventive tool and could be coupled with a generative AI algorithm to visualize aging and, potentially, other skin conditions, using appropriate images.

Development of an epigenetic clock to predict visual age progression of human skin

Aging is a complex process characterized by the gradual decline of physiological functions, leading to increased vulnerability to age-related diseases and reduced quality of life. Alterations in DNA methylation (DNAm) patterns have emerged as a fundamental characteristic of aged human skin, closely linked to the development of the well-known skin aging phenotype. These changes have been correlated with dysregulated gene expression and impaired tissue functionality. In particular, the skin, with its visible manifestations of aging, provides a unique model to study the aging process. Despite the importance of epigenetic age clocks in estimating biological age based on the correlation between methylation patterns and chronological age, a second-generation epigenetic age clock, which correlates DNAm patterns with a particular phenotype, specifically tailored to skin tissue is still lacking. In light of this gap, we aimed to develop a novel second-generation epigenetic age clock explicitly designed for skin tissue to facilitate a deeper understanding of the factors contributing to individual variations in age progression. To achieve this, we used methylation patterns from more than 370 female volunteers and developed the first skin-specific second-generation epigenetic age clock that accurately predicts the skin aging phenotype represented by wrinkle grade, visual facial age, and visual age progression, respectively. We then validated the performance of our clocks on independent datasets and demonstrated their broad applicability. In addition, we integrated gene expression and methylation data from independent studies to identify potential pathways contributing to skin age progression. Our results demonstrate that our epigenetic age clock, VisAgeX, specifically predicting visual age progression, not only captures known biological pathways associated with skin aging, but also adds novel pathways associated with skin aging.

Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies

This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.

Clinically Actionable Topical Strategies for Addressing the Hallmarks of Skin Aging: A Primer for Aesthetic Medicine Practitioners

In this narrative review, we sought to provide a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms underlying cutaneous senescence, framed by the twelve traditional hallmarks of aging. These include genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, impaired macroautophagy, deregulated nutrient sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, altered intercellular communication, chronic inflammation, and dysbiosis. We also examined how topical interventions targeting these hallmarks can be integrated with conventional aesthetic medicine techniques to enhance skin rejuvenation. The potential of combining targeted topical therapies against the aging hallmarks with minimally invasive procedures represents a significant advancement in aesthetic medicine, offering personalized and effective strategies to combat skin aging. The reviewed evidence paves the way for future advancements and underscores the transformative potential of integrating scientifically validated interventions targeted against aging hallmarks into traditional aesthetic practices.

Vitamin C compounds mixture prevents skin barrier alterations and inflammatory responses upon real life multi pollutant exposure

Cutaneous tissues is among the main target of outdoor stressors such as ozone (O3 ), particulate matter (PM), and ultraviolet radiation (UV) all involved in inducing extrinsic skin aging. Only a few reports have studied the multipollutant interaction and its effect on skin damage. In the present work, we intended to evaluate the ability of pollutants such as O3 and PM to further aggravate cutaneous UV damage. In addition, the preventive properties of a cosmeceutical formulation mixture (AOX mix) containing 15% vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (α-tocopherol) and 0.5% ferulic acid was also investigated. Skin explants obtained from three different subjects were exposed to 200 mJ UV light, 0.25 ppm O3 for 2 h, and 30 min of diesel engine exhaust (DEE), alone or in combination for 4 days (time point D1 and D4). The results showed a clear additive effect of O3 and DEE in combination with UV in terms of keratin 10, Desmocollin and Claudin loss. In addition, the multipollutant exposure significantly induced the inflammatory response measured as NLRP1/ASC co-localization suggesting the activation of the inflammasome machinery. Finally, the loss of Aquaporin3 was also affected by the combined outdoor stressors. Furthermore, daily topical pre-treatment with the AOX Mix significantly prevented the cutaneous changes induced by the multipollutants. In conclusion, this study is among the first to investigate the combined effects of three of the most harmful outdoor stressors on human skin and confirms that daily topical of an antioxidant application may prevent pollution-induced skin damage.

Immunomodulation with AM3 and antioxidants creates an adequate framework for skin repair and decreases the monocyte proinflammatory stage in smoker women

Smoking has been considering a crucial factor in promoting skin and systemic aging that is associated with the development of a low-level, systemic, chronic inflammation known as "inflammaging" in which monocytes play a pivotal role. Our aim was to investigate the effects of AM3 plus antioxidants vs placebo in the activation status, function of monocytes and cutaneous aging parameters in healthy smoker middle-aged women. A total of 32 women were 1:1 randomly assigned to AM3 plus antioxidants or placebo for three months. Peripheral mononuclear blood cells and cutaneous biopsy were obtained and flow cytometry and immunohistological studies, respectively, were performed before and after the treatment. AM3 plus antioxidants treatment compared with placebo significantly reduced the monocyte production of the proinflammatory interleukin 1 (IL-1), tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α) and interleukin 6 (IL-6) cytokines as well as increased the regulatory IL-10 in middle-aged smoker women. Furthermore, AM3 and antioxidants did not modify ROS production by monocytes and granulocytes but increased their phagocytic activity. The active combination also stimulated a significative increase in reticular dermis depth as well as an increase in the expression of CD117 and CD31. Thus, AM3 and antioxidants treatment reduces the systemic proinflammatory monocyte disturbance of heathy smoker middle-aged women and encourage skin repair mechanisms.

The effectiveness of S-LEC™ solar control film L in laminated glass for reducing the burning sensation caused by near-infrared radiation

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to examine the potential for S-LEC™ Solar Control Film L, a heat insulating interlayer film for laminated glass developed by Sekisui Chemical Co., Ltd., to reduce the burning sensation caused by near infrared (NIR) radiation.

METHODS

A crossover study was performed in 49 male and female subjects, using three different combinations of laminated glass with interlayer films. Subjects placed their right hand under each glass in an NIR irradiation device. The dorsal side of the right hand was irradiated with NIR for 30 s and the onset and degree of a burning sensation was measured.

RESULTS

Laminated glass with S-LEC™ Solar Control Film L reduced the burning sensation caused by NIR and delayed the onset of the sensation, compared with the control glasses.

CONCLUSION

The use of S-LEC™ Solar Control Film L in the laminated glass of vehicles may improve passenger comfort and prevent skin disorders such as photoaging caused by prolonged exposure to NIR.

A cross-sectional epidemiological study conducted in Argentina to evaluate the impact of the exposome on skin aging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a gradual cumulative process that may be accelerated by various exposome factors.

AIMS

To investigate associations between exposome factors and facial skin aging in 11 locations in Argentina.

PATIENTS/METHODS

An observational, cross-sectional study with assessments by exposome questionnaire, Glogau photoaging classification from I to IV, AI-based algorithm analysis of 7 skin aging signs, and SCINEXA score.

RESULTS

Of 1346 participants, most were women (82%), aged 31-50 years (62%), of skin phototype III (52%), and living in urban areas (94%). The Glogau skin age was higher than the chronological age for 28% of overall participants, 36% of men, and 45% of participants from Ciudad de Buenos Aires versus 12% from Jujuy (p < 0.001). Being male (OR = 1.59; 95% CI 1.18-2.13), exposed to agrochemicals (OR = 1.59: 95% CI 1.01-2.51), of lower socioeconomic levels (OR = 2.06; 95% CI 1.32-3.21) and doing outdoor physical activity (OR = 1.33; 95% CI 1.00-1.76) increased the risk for premature aging. Odds decreased with high daily intake of water (OR = 0.76; 95% CI 0.59-0.97), daily dermocosmetic use (moisturizers [OR = 0.72; 95% CI 0.55-0.94], cleansers [OR = 0.53; CI 95% 0.42-0.67], retinoids [OR = 0.61; 95% CI 0.39-0.95]), and antiaging treatments (OR = 0.74; 95% CI 0.57-0.97).

CONCLUSIONS

Some exposome factors increased the risk for premature skin aging (physical outdoor activity, exposure to agrochemicals), while others were protective factors (high water intake, antiaging treatments, use of dermocosmetics). Locations with higher pollution levels had more premature skin aging.

Sun exposure behaviours as a compromise to paradoxical injunctions: Insight from a worldwide survey

BACKGROUND

Behavioural interventions can improve attitudes towards sun protection but the impact remains inconsistent worldwide.

OBJECTIVE

To assess awareness of and attitudes towards the multiple facets of sun exposure and suggest ways to improve prevention from overexposure to the sun in all geographical zones and multiple skin types.

METHODS

Online survey was conducted from 28 September to 18 October 2021. Study population was selected from the Ipsos online Panel (3,540,000 panellists), aged ≥18 years, from 17 countries around the five continents. Demographics, sun-exposure habits and practices, understanding of risks and information on phototypes were documented and analysed using descriptive statistics.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight per cent of participants knew that sunlight can cause skin health problems (90% phototypes I-II, 82% phototypes V-VI, >90% in American and European countries, 72% in Asia and 85% in Africa). Eighty-five per cent used some form of protection against sunlight, predominantly: Seeking shade (77%), avoiding the midday sun (66%), facial application of sunscreen (60%) and wearing protective clothing (44%). The perception of sunlight itself is positive ('it gives energy' for 82%; 'tanned skin looks attractive' for 72%), although less in Asian countries and among individuals with dark skin phototypes. Eighty-three per cent reported having experienced sunburn, mainly in Australia, Canada, USA, Germany, France and Russia, and among individuals with dark skin phototypes. Only 12% systematically/often used all types of protection during exposure to the sun and 23% believed it is safe to go out in the sun with no protection when their skin is already tanned. From 13% (skin phototype I) to 26% (phototype VI) reported not using any form of protection against the sun. Knowledge and habits were significantly superior among people who are accustomed to seeing a dermatologist for a complete skin exam.

CONCLUSIONS

Dermatologists could play a crucial role in relaying novel prevention messages, more finely tailored to specific risks, populations and areas of the world.

The skin of the naked mole-rat and its resilience against aging and cancer

The naked mole-rat (NMR) Heterocephalus glaber (from the Greek/latin words ἕτερος, heteros = divergent, κεφαλή, kephalē = head and glabra = hairless) was first described by Rüppell (Fig. 1) and belongs to the Hystricognath (from the Greek words ὕστριξ, hystrix = porcupine and γνάθος, gnathos = jaw) as a suborder of rodents. NMR are characterized by the highest longevity among rodents and reveal a profound cancer resistance. Details of its skin-specific protective and resistance mechanisms against aging and carcinogenesis have so far not been adequately characterized. Recently, our knowledge of NMR skin biology was complemented and expanded by published data using state-of-the art histological and molecular techniques. Here we review and integrate novel published data regarding skin morphology and histology of the aging NMR and the underlying mechanisms at the cellular and molecular level. We relate this data to the longevity of the NMR and its resistance to neoplastic transformation and discuss further open questions to understand its extraordinary longevity. In addition, we will address the exposome, defined as "the total of all non-genetic, endogenous and exogenous environmental influences" on the skin, respiratory tract, stomach, and intestine. Finally, we will discuss in perspective further intriguing possibilities arising from the interaction of skin with other organs.

Mesenchymal stem cell-derived exosomes and skin photoaging: From basic research to practical application

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging is a condition caused by long-term exposure to ultraviolet irradiation, resulting in a variety of changes in the skin, such as capillary dilation, increased or absent pigmentation, dryness, sagging, and wrinkles. Stem cells possess a remarkable antioxidant capacity and the ability to proliferate, differentiate, and migrate, and their main mode of action is through paracrine secretion, with exosomes being the primary form of secretion. Stem cell-derived exosomes contain a variety of growth factors and cytokines and may have great potential to promote skin repair and delay skin ageing.

METHODS

This review focuses on the mechanisms of UV-induced skin photoaging, the research progress of stem cell exosomes against skin photoaging, emerging application approaches and limitations in the application of exosome therapy.

RESULT

Exosomes derived from various stem cells have the potential to prevent skin photoaging.

CONCLUSION

The combination with novel materials may be a key step for their practical application, which could be an important direction for future basic research and practical applications.

Artificial intelligence analysis of over a million Chinese men and women reveals level of dark circle in the facial skin aging process

BACKGROUND

To better compare the progression of dark circles and the aging process in Chinese skin. A total of 100 589 Chinese males and 1 838 997 Chinese females aged 18 to 85, without facial skin conditions, and who had access to a smartphone with a high-resolution camera all took selfies.

METHOD

Using a smartphone application with a built-in artificial intelligence algorithm, facial skin diagnostic evaluated the selfies and score the severity of the dark circles with four other facial indicators (including skin type, Pores, Acne vulgaris, and Blackheads). Basic information was collected with online questionnaire, including their age, gender, skin sensitivity, and dietary habits.

RESULTS

In users between the age of 18 and 59, the prevalence of comprehensive, pigmented, and structural type of dark circles all rose with age. However, between the age of 60 and 85, the intensity of all types of dark circles diminished. Besides, vascular dark circles progressively worsen from the age of 18 to their peak at 39, and then gradually decline with age. Females typically have more pronounced black circles under their eyes than males in China. Bad eating habits, urbanization, regular cosmetics use, and sensitive skin positively correlate with severe dark circles. Vascular, comprehensive dark circles were worse in spring. Both pigmented and structural dark circles were worse in the summer. The results indicated that the intensity of dark circles was influenced by oily skin, wide pores, severe blackheads, and severe acne.

CONCLUSIONS

Chinese men and women differed noticeably in the prevalence of each face aging indicator and the appearance of aging dark circles. Selfies could be automatically graded and examined by artificial intelligence, which is a quick and private method for quantifying signs of facial aging and identifying major problems for different populations. Artificial intelligence would assist in the development of individualized preventive and therapeutic interventions.

Cistanche deserticola Polysaccharide Reduces Inflammation and Aging Phenotypes in the Dermal Fibroblasts through the Activation of the NRF2/HO-1 Pathway

Dermal fibroblasts maintain the skin homeostasis by interacting with the epidermis and extracellular matrix. Their senescence contributes to functional defects in the skin related to aging. Therefore, there is an urgent need for novel therapeutic agents that could inhibit fibroblast senescence. In this study, we investigated the effects of Cistanche deserticola polysaccharide (CDP), a natural anti-inflammatory component, on the progression of senescence in human dermal fibroblasts. Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) were cultured in passages, and highly senescent cells were selected as senescent cells. CDP treatment increased the cell proliferation in senescent NHDFs and decreased the proportion of senescence-associated-β-galactosidase-positive cells. The treatment suppressed the senescence-related secretory phenotype, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was reduced, alleviating H2O2-induced oxidative stress. CDP mitigated ROS formation via the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor/heme oxygenase-1 pathway in senescent cells and was involved in the suppression of upstream p-extracellular signal-regulated kinase. These results indicate that CDP is an antioxidant that can alleviate age-related inflammation and may be a useful compound for skin anti-aging.

The Potential of Mangifera indica L. Peel Extract to Be Revalued in Cosmetic Applications

The constant growth of the cosmetic industry, together with the scientific evidence of the beneficial properties of phytochemicals, has generated great interest in the incorporation of bioactive extracts in cosmetic formulations. This study aims to evaluate the bioactive potential of a mango peel extract for its incorporation into cosmetic formulations. For this purpose, several assays were conducted: phytochemical characterization; total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant potential; free-radical scavenging capacity; and skin aging-related enzyme inhibition. In addition, the extract was incorporated into a gel formulation, and a preliminary stability study was conducted where the accelerated (temperature ramp, centrifugation, and heating/cooling cycles) and long-term (storage in light and dark for three months) stability of the mango peel formulations were evaluated. The characterization results showed the annotation of 71 compounds, gallotannins being the most representative group. In addition, the mango peel extract was shown to be effective against the •NO radical with an IC50 of 7.5 mg/L and against the hyaluronidase and xanthine oxidase enzymes with IC50 of 27 mg/L and 2 mg/L, respectively. The formulations incorporating the extract were stable during the stability study. The results demonstrate that mango peel extract can be a by-product to be revalorized as a promising cosmetic ingredient.

The combination of cigarette smoke and solar rays causes effects similar to skin aging in a bilayer skin model

Skin aging is a multifactorial process influenced by internal and external factors. The contribution of different environmental factors has been well established individually in the last few years. On the one hand, man is rarely exposed to a single factor, and on the other hand, there is very little knowledge about how these extrinsic factors may interact with each other or even how the skin may react to chronic exposure. This study aimed to evaluate the effect on skin aging of a chronic co-exposure of tissue-engineered skin substitutes to cigarette smoke extract (CSE) and solar simulator light (SSL). Skin substitutes were reconstructed according to the self-assembly method and then exposed to CSE followed by irradiation with SSL simultaneously transmitting UVA1, visible light and infrared. When skin substitutes were chronically exposed to CSE and SSL, a significant decrease in procollagen I synthesis and the inhibition of Smad2 phosphorylation of the TGF-β signaling pathway were observed. A 6.7-fold increase in MMP-1 activity was also observed when CSE was combined with SSL, resulting in a decrease in collagen III and collagen IV protein expression. The secretory profile resulting from the toxic synergy was investigated and several alterations were observed, notably an increase in the quantities of pro-inflammatory cytokines. The results also revealed the activation of the ERK1/2 (3.4-fold) and JNK (3.3-fold) pathways. Taken together, the results showed that a synergy between the two environmental factors could provoke premature skin aging.

Tocotrienol-Rich Fraction Attenuates Blue Light-Induced Oxidative Stress and Melanogenesis in B16-F1 Melanocytes via Anti-Oxidative and Anti-Tyrosinase Properties

Our skin is constantly exposed to blue light (BL), which is abundant in sunlight and emitted by digital devices. Prolonged exposure to BL can lead to oxidative stress-induced damages and skin hyperpigmentation. For this study, we used a cell line-based model to examine the protective effects of tocotrienol-rich fraction (TRF) on BL-induced oxidative stress and hyperpigmentation in B16-F1 melanocytes. Alpha-tocopherol (αTP) was used as a comparator. Molecular assays such as cell viability assay, flow cytometry, western blotting, fluorescence imaging, melanin and tyrosinase analysis were performed. Our results showed that TRF effectively suppressed the formation of reactive oxygen species and preserved the mitochondrial membrane potential. Additionally, TRF exhibited anti-apoptotic properties by reducing the activation of the p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase molecule and downregulating the expression of cleaved caspase-3. Moreover, TRF modulated tyrosinase activity, resulting in a lowered rate of melanogenesis and reduced melanin production. In contrast, αTP did not exhibit significant protective effects against skin damages and pigmentation in BL-induced B16-F1 cells. Therefore, this study indicates that TRF may offer superior protective effects over αTP against the effects of BL on melanocytes. These findings demonstrate the potential of TRF as a protective natural ingredient that acts against BL-induced skin damages and hyperpigmentation via its anti-oxidative and anti-melanogenic properties.

The anti-aging mechanism of ginsenosides with medicine and food homology

With the acceleration of global aging and the rise in living standards, the achievement of healthy aging is becoming an imperative issue globally. Ginseng, a medicinal plant that has a long history of dietary intake and remarkable medicinal value, has become a research hotspot in the field of food and medicine. Ginsenosides, especially protopanaxadiol-type saponins and protopanaxatriol-type saponins, are among the most important active ingredients in ginseng. Ginsenosides have been found to exhibit powerful and diverse pharmacological activities, such as antiaging, antitumor, antifatigue and immunity enhancement activities. Their effects in antiaging mainly include (1) promotion of metabolism and stem cell proliferation, (2) protection of skin and nerves, (3) modulation of intestinal flora, (4) maintenance of mitochondrial function, and (5) enhancement of telomerase activity. The underlying mechanisms are primarily associated with the intervention of the signaling pathways in apoptosis, inflammation and oxidative stress. In this review, the mechanism of action of ginsenosides in antiaging as well as the potential values of developing ginsenoside-based functional foods and antiaging drugs are discussed.

Photoaging's portrait: The road map towards its photoprotection

OBJECTIVE

To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).

RESULTS

In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.

CONCLUSION

Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.

Pharmacological potentials of lycopene against aging and aging-related disorders: A review

Aging and aging-related chronic disorders are one of the principal causes of death worldwide. The prevalence of these disorders is increasing gradually and globally. Considering this unwavering acceleration of the global burden, seeking alternatives to traditional medication to prevent the risk of aging disorders is needed. Among them, lycopene, a carotenoid, is abundant in many fruits and vegetables, including tomatoes, grapefruits, and watermelons, and it has a unique chemical structure to be a potent antioxidant compound. This nutraceutical also possesses several anti-aging actions, including combating aging biomarkers and ameliorating several chronic disorders. However, no systematic evaluation has yet been carried out that can comprehensively elucidate the effectiveness of lycopene in halting the course of aging and the emergence of chronic diseases linked to aging. This review, therefore, incorporates previous pre-clinical, clinical, and epidemiological studies on lycopene to understand its potency in treating aging disorders and its role as a mimic of caloric restriction. Lycopene-rich foods are found to prevent or attenuate aging disorders in various research. Based on the evidence, this review suggests the clinical application of lycopene to improve human health and alleviate the prevalence of aging and aging disorders.

Combining Diamond-Tip Dermabrasion Treatments and Topical Skincare in Participants with Dry, Hyperpigmented, Photodamaged or Acne-Prone/Oily Facial Skin: A Clinical Usage Study

Purpose

An in-office diamond tip microdermabrasion device (DG) was designed to simultaneously exfoliate, extract, and infuse topical cosmetic serums into the skin to improve its appearance. Combining in-office procedures with take-home skincare may enhance treatment outcomes. This study aimed to assess the efficacy of a novel combination of DG treatments with a take-home cosmetic skincare regimen (DGR) to address facial dryness, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, or acne-prone/oily skin.

Patients and Methods

In this 12-week, open-label, single-center study, participants were assigned to 1 of 4 groups according to skin presentation: dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, or acne-prone/oily. All participants received 6 bi-weekly DG treatments with tailored DGR topical products. During the DG treatment, the dry, hyperpigmented, photodamaged, and acne-prone/oily groups received hydrating, brightening, antioxidant, and pore-clarifying serums, respectively. Study endpoints included investigator grading, standardized photography, and participant questionnaires.

Results

Sixteen participants aged 22 to 70 years with Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-V completed the study. Immediately after the first DG treatment, significant improvements in dryness, radiance, texture, photodamage, and fine lines were achieved (P<0.01). At 72 hours, significant improvements were maintained in all these parameters except fine lines (P<0.05). The DG and DGR combination provided significant long-term improvements at week 12 compared to baseline for dryness, radiance, texture, hyperpigmentation, photodamage, skin tone unevenness, and periocular/perioral fine lines (P<0.05).

Conclusion

The combination of DG and DGR showed significant immediate and long-term improvements in skin appearance. These results show that the DG and DGR combination is a well-tolerated and effective intervention to enhance different aspects of facial skin quality.

Effects of Investigational Moisturizers on the Skin Barrier and Microbiome following Exposure to Environmental Aggressors: A Randomized Clinical Trial and Ex Vivo Analysis

The skin microbiota barrier participates in skin barrier function in addition to the physical, chemical, and immunological protective barriers, and is affected by environmental aggressors and skincare regimens. To better understand the exact effects of real-life environmental conditions on the skin and determine the protective methods, this study investigates the effects of three topical cosmetic moisturizers (water gel moisturizers with/without yeast extract (Moisturizers K and C) and a thick-emulsion cream moisturizer (Moisturizer L)) on clinical and skin microbiome endpoints in the presence of environmental aggressors during an 8-week, randomized controlled, triple-blind clinical trial with 110 participants, and molecular- as well as biomarker-level endpoints on ex vivo skin explants after exposure to simulate urban environmental conditions. The results show that all moisturizers are well-tolerated and improve skin barrier function and surface moisture content from the baseline, and the improvement is maintained at the last analysis point (3 days after trial completion). Compared with the untreated control areas (samples taken from the upper chest), treatment with Moisturizer K prevented a reduction in bacterial and fungal richness, and increased the change ratio of the relative abundance of commensal bacteria, such as Staphylococcus epidermidis and Ralstonia, at the treated sites (samples taken from the forehead). Moreover, Moisturizer K-treated ex vivo skin explants had higher levels of caspase 14 (a marker of skin barrier function), collagen I, and elastin (structure components), and lower levels of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR; activated by air pollutants) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) than those in explants treated with other moisturizers and in the untreated areas of the skin. These results suggest that a skin postbiotic moisturizer with yeast extract supports the regulation of the skin's microbiome balance and may provide a holistic barrier (involving skin microbiome, physical, chemical, and immune barriers) to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

Antioxidant and phytometabolite profiles of ethanolic extract from the cascara pulp of Coffea arabica collected from Gayo Highland: A study for potential anti-photoaging agent

Background: As the most abundant coffee by-product, cascara pulp has been considered a good source of antioxidants which could be used to prevent photoaging. The aim of this study was to determine the phytometabolite profiles, antioxidant and photoaging properties of the ethanolic extract of Coffea arabica cascara pulp. Methods: Ethanolic maceration was performed on the fine powder of C. arabica cascara pulp collected from Gayo Highland, Aceh Province, Indonesia. The filtrate obtained was evaluated for its 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, total phenolic content (TPC), and total flavonoid content (TFC). The phytometabolite profiling was conducted qualitatively using reagents and quantitatively using gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy (GC-MS). The potential of the cascara pulp phytometabolites in inhibiting activator protein-1 (AP-1) was evaluated through molecular docking. Results: The extract had TPC and TFC of 2.04 mg gallic acid equivalent/g extract and 91.81 mg quercetin equivalent/g extract, respectively. The half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC 50) for the DPPH inhibition reached as low as 9.59 mg/L. Qualitative phytocompound screening revealed the presence of alkaloids, saponins, tannins, flavonoids, steroids, quinones, polyphenols, and triterpenoids. GC-MS revealed the extract containing 5-hydroxy-methylfurfural (22.31%); 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-3(2H)-furanone (0.74%); and caffeine (21.07%), which could form interaction with AP-1 with binding energies of -172.8, -150.8, and -63.188 kJ/mol, respectively. Conclusion: Ethanolic extract from C. arabica cascara pulp potentially have anti-photoaging properties which is worthy for further investigations in the future.

Integrating the social environment with an equity perspective into the exposome paradigm: A new conceptual framework of the Social Exposome

The importance of the social environment and social inequalities in disease etiology is well-known due to the profound research and conceptual framework on social determinants of health. For a long period, in exposome research with its classical orientation towards detrimental health effects of biological, chemical, and physical exposures, this knowledge remained underrepresented. But currently it gains great awareness and calls for innovations in rethinking the role of social environmental health determinants. To fill this gap that exists in terms of the social domain within exposome research, we propose a novel conceptual framework of the Social Exposome, to integrate the social environment in conjunction with the physical environment into the exposome concept. The iterative development process of the Social Exposome was based on a systematic compilation of social exposures in order to achieve a holistic portrayal of the human social environment - including social, psychosocial, socioeconomic, sociodemographic, local, regional, and cultural aspects, at individual and contextual levels. In order to move the Social Exposome beyond a mere compilation of exposures, three core principles are emphasized that underly the interplay of the multitude of exposures: Multidimensionality, Reciprocity, and Timing and continuity. The key focus of the conceptual framework of the Social Exposome is on understanding the underlying mechanisms that translate social exposures into health outcomes. In particular, insights from research on health equity and environmental justice have been incorporated to uncover how social inequalities in health emerge, are maintained, and systematically drive health outcomes. Three transmission pathways are presented: Embodiment, Resilience and Susceptibility or Vulnerability, and Empowerment. The Social Exposome conceptual framework may serve as a strategic map for, both, research and intervention planning, aiming to further explore the impact of the complex social environment and to alter transmission pathways to minimize health risks and health inequalities and to foster equity in health.

Ameliorative effect of black tea extract on the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice

Aging is a universal and irreversible process, and the skin is an important feature that reflects the aging of the organism. Skin aging has been a focus of attention in recent years because it leads to changes in an individual's external features and the loss of many important biological functions. This experiment investigated the improvement effect of black tea extract (BTE) on the skin of aging mice under D-galactose induction. After 6 weeks of administration, the changes in skin bio-chemical indices and tissue structure were compared with the blank and positive control groups. It was observed that BTE increased water and hyaluronic acid (HA) content, decreased malondialdehyde (MDA) content, enhanced superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and catalase (CAT) activities in the skin of aging mice, and improved the structure of aging damaged skin tissues and increased the content of total collagen. The experimental results showed that BTE can play a significant anti-aging effect on the skin, which can be used as a functional food for aging inhibition.

Toxic Interaction Between Solar Radiation and Cigarette Smoke on Primary Human Keratinocytes

Solar radiation and cigarette smoke are two environmental risk factors known to affect skin integrity. Although the toxic effects of these factors on skin have been widely studied separately, few studies have focused on their interaction. The objective of this study was to evaluate and understand the synergistic harmful effects of cigarette smoke and solar rays on human primary keratinocytes. The keratinocytes were exposed to cigarette smoke extract (CSE) and then irradiated with a solar simulator light (SSL). The viability, as determined by measuring metabolic activity of skin cells, and the levels of global reactive oxygen species (ROS) were evaluated after exposure to CSE and SSL. The combination of 3% CSE with 29 kJ m-2 UVA caused a decrease of 81% in cell viability, while with 10% to 20% CSE, the cell viability was null. This phototoxicity was accompanied by an increase in singlet oxygen but a decrease in type I ROS when CSE and SSL were combined in vitro. Surprisingly, an increase in the CSE's total antioxidant capacity was also observed. These results suggest a synergy between the two environmental factors in their effect on skin cells, and more precisely a phototoxicity causing a drastic decrease in cell viability.

[Skin aging-cellular senescence : What is the future?]

BACKGROUND

Cellular senescence is the main cause of skin and organ aging and is associated with a wide range of aging-related diseases.

OBJECTIVES

To understand which senolytics, senomorphics, and cell-based therapies have been developed to alleviate and even rejuvenate skin aging and reduce cellular senescence.

METHODS

Basic literature for the mode of action of senolytics and senomorphics and their clinical perspectives in daily routine are discussed.

RESULTS

Various causes lead to mitochondrial dysfunction and the activation of pro-aging signaling pathways, which eventually lead to cellular senescence with degradation of structural proteins of the dermal connective tissue and severe suppression of regenerative stem cell niches of the skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Depletion of senescent cells suppress skin aging and enforce rejuvenation of skin and other organs and their function. The removal of senescent cells by cells of the native immune system is severely disturbed during aging. Selected senolytics and senomorphics are approved and are already on the market.

Exploring the recent developments of alginate silk fibroin material for hydrogel wound dressing: A review

Hydrogels, a type of polymeric material capable of retaining water within a three-dimensional network, have demonstrated their potential in wound healing, surpassing traditional wound dressings. These hydrogels possess remarkable mechanical, chemical, and biological properties, making them suitable scaffolds for tissue regeneration. This article aims to emphasize the advantages of alginate, silk fibroin, and hydrogel-based wound dressings, specifically highlighting their crucial functions that accelerate the healing process of skin wounds. Noteworthy functions include self-healing ability, water solubility, anti-inflammatory properties, adhesion, antimicrobial properties, drug delivery, conductivity, and responsiveness to stimuli. Moreover, recent advancements in hydrogel technology have resulted in the development of wound dressings with enhanced features for monitoring wound progression, further augmenting their effectiveness. This review emphasizes the utilization of hydrogel membranes for treating excisional and incisional wounds, while exploring recent breakthroughs in hydrogel wound dressings, including nanoparticle composite hydrogels, stem cell hydrogel composites, and curcumin-hydrogel composites. Additionally, the review focuses on diverse synthesis procedures, designs, and potential applications of hydrogels in wound healing dressings.

[Skin aging exposome]

The skin is a barrier organ and thus exposed to environmental factors from birth, which essentially determine skin aging. In order to describe and understand this complex process exactly, we applied the concept of the "exposome" to the environmentally induced skin aging process. In this review, we summarize current knowledge on the skin aging exposome. In this context, we characterize the most important exposomal factors, address their relative importance for skin aging and also the relevance of their mutual interactions. Finally, we discuss the clinical consequences resulting from this concept for an effective prevention of skin aging.

N,N-Dimethylglycine Sodium Salt Exerts Marked Anti-Inflammatory Effects in Various Dermatitis Models and Activates Human Epidermal Keratinocytes by Increasing Proliferation, Migration, and Growth Factor Release

N,N-dimethylglycine (DMG) is a naturally occurring compound being widely used as an oral supplement to improve growth and physical performance. Thus far, its effects on human skin have not been described in the literature. For the first time, we show that N,N-dimethylglycine sodium salt (DMG-Na) promoted the proliferation of cultured human epidermal HaCaT keratinocytes. Even at high doses, DMG-Na did not compromise the cellular viability of these cells. In a scratch wound-closure assay, DMG-Na augmented the rate of wound closure, demonstrating that it promotes keratinocyte migration. Further, DMG-Na treatment of the cells resulted in the upregulation of the synthesis and release of specific growth factors. Intriguingly, DMG-Na also exerted robust anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, as assessed in three different models of human keratinocytes, mimicking microbial and allergic contact dermatitis as well as psoriasis and UVB irradiation-induced solar dermatitis. These results identify DMG-Na as a highly promising novel active compound to promote epidermal proliferation, regeneration, and repair, and to exert protective functions. Further preclinical and clinical studies are under investigation to prove the seminal impact of topically applied DMG-Na on relevant conditions of the skin and its appendages.

Topical Application of M89PF Containing Vichy Mineralising Water and Probiotic Fractions Prevents Cutaneous Damage Induced by Exposure to UV and O3

Purpose

Exposure of the skin to ultraviolet radiation (UV) or ozone (O₃) results in stressed skin, leading to the alteration of the skin physical barrier and defence functions. In this work, the preventive benefit of a dermocosmetic, M89PF, containing Vichy mineralising water, probiotic fractions, antioxidant vitamins and hyaluronic acid, in the alteration of skin physical barrier and skin defence functions after exposure to O₃ and UV, alone or combined, was assessed.

Methods

Untreated and treated (M89PF) skin explants were exposed to O₃, to UV rays or to O₃+UV. Immunofluorescence was performed for skin barrier, oxidative stress, and inflammatory markers after one and four days of exposure to the pollutants.

Results

M89PF significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the decrease of the expression level of different skin barrier markers, and significantly (p≤0.05) prevented the induction of OxInflammatory markers and inflammasome components by UV, O_3, or both combined.

Conclusion

M89PF prevents skin barrier damage, as well as oxidative stress and inflammatory markers induced by exposome factors, such as UV, O_3, or both combined.

Resistance training rejuvenates aging skin by reducing circulating inflammatory factors and enhancing dermal extracellular matrices

Aerobic training (AT) is suggested to be an effective anti-aging strategy for skin aging. However, the respective effects of resistance training (RT) have not been studied. Therefore, we compared the effects of AT and RT on skin aging in a 16-week intervention in 61 healthy sedentary middle-aged Japanese women. Data from 56 women were available for analysis. Both interventions significantly improved skin elasticity and upper dermal structure, and RT also improved dermal thickness. After the training intervention, expression of dermal extracellular matrix-related genes was increased in normal human primary dermal fibroblasts. AT and RT had different effects on circulating levels of factors, such as cytokines, hormones in serum, and metabolites, and RT increased dermal biglycan (BGN). To our knowledge, this is the first report to show different effects of AT and RT on skin aging and identify the key factors involved in RT-induced skin rejuvenation.

Improvement of Antioxidant Defences in Keratinocytes Grown in Physioxia: Comparison of 2D and 3D Models

Keratinocytes prevent skin photoaging by ensuring the defence against oxidative stress, an excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). They are localized within the epidermis where the oxygen level (1-3% O₂), named physioxia, is low compared to other organs. Oxygen is essential for life but also generates ROS. Most of the in vitro studies on keratinocyte antioxidant capacities are performed under atmospheric oxygen, named normoxia, which is very far from the physiological microenvironment, thus submitting cells to an overoxygenation. The present study is aimed at investigating the antioxidant status of keratinocyte grown under physioxia in both 2D and 3D models. First, we show that the basal antioxidant profiles of keratinocytes display important differences when comparing the HaCaT cell line, primary keratinocytes (NHEK), reconstructed epidermis (RHE), and skin explants. Physioxia was shown to promote a strong proliferation of keratinocytes in monolayers and in RHE, resulting in a thinner epidermis likely due to a slowdown in cell differentiation. Interestingly, cells in physioxia exhibited a lower ROS production upon stress, suggesting a better protection against oxidative stress. To understand this effect, we studied the antioxidant enzymes and reported a lower or equivalent level of mRNA for all enzymes in physioxia conditions compared to normoxia, but a higher activity for catalase and superoxide dismutases, whatever the culture model. The unchanged catalase amount, in NHEK and RHE, suggests an overactivation of the enzyme in physioxia, whereas the higher amount of SOD2 can explain the strong activity. Taken together, our results demonstrate the role of oxygen in the regulation of the antioxidant defences in keratinocytes, topic of particular importance for studying skin aging. Additionally, the present work points out the interest of the choice of both the keratinocyte culture model and the oxygen level to be as close as possible to the in situ skin.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Hydrangea serrata Hot Water Extract and Its Major Ingredient Hydrangenol Improve Skin Moisturization and Wrinkle Conditions via AP-1 and Akt/PI3K Pathway Upregulation

Hydrangea serrata is a plant grown in Korea and Japan with a particular natural compound, hydrangenol. H. serrata has been researched for its anti-fungal properties, and ability to attenuate allergies and promote muscle growth. Its ability to reduce skin dryness is poorly understood. For that reason, we investigated whether H. serrata hot water extracts (Hs-WE) can moisturize keratinocytes. In clinical studies (Approval Code: GIRB-21929-NY and approval Date: 5 October 2021), skin wrinkles and skin moisturizing levels were improved in subjects applying 0.5% Hs-WE compared to the placebo group. We confirmed the components of Hs-WE from the LC/MS-MS analysis. Hs-WE and hydrangenol did not show cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells at all concentrations. Cell growth was also promoted by Hs-WE (5-20 µg/mL) and hydrangenol (15-60 µM) in a wound healing assay. Skin moisturizing factors were upregulated by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol, and the hyaluronidases (HYAL) were inhibited at the mRNA level. Meanwhile, COL1A1 was increased by the presence of Hs-WE or hydrangenol. MAPK, AP-1, and Akt/PI3k signaling proteins, which are associated with cell proliferation and moisturizing factors, were increased by the administration of Hs-WE and hydrangenol. Has-1, 2, and 3 levels were enhanced via JNK when using the inhibitors of MAPK proteins and Hs-WE and hydrangenol, respectively. Taken together, Hs-WE could be used as cosmeceutical materials for improving skin conditions.